I see quite a few painting videos where it seems the airbrushers are spraying in an open room. Perhaps that's just for the video. I'm curious if you use a spray booth?
Great question. There are more reasons than one why I shoot Tamiya acrylics with IPA at a high P.S.I. factor. High P.S.I. is achieved with a contractor or commercial compressor with a tank. The latter allows you to control the paint volume with excessive air pressure controlled via the (trigger) through the needle orifice in a very controlled manner. I have used a spray booth in the past depending on the job. Not for this one. A hobby spray booth is useless to me because I don't shoot toxic enamels. Furthermore, small spray booths' kill the lighting and create plumes. I use a fan (out of view) and a big open window when I spray IPA. Isopropyl Alcohol evaporates and dissipates so rapidly that there is very little atomization of paint particle in the air but more so onto the model, which is why I spray at 50-60 P.S.I. The high pressure and high evaporation rate coupled to super thin paint, goes onto the model and not into the air. Having said this, I do wear a mask though. I hope that helps answer the question. Cheers ~ Boomer.
@@boomerdiorama Thank you, Boomer. That answered my question and makes sense. You surprise me with using such high pressure, but I'm intrigued and will have to try that. I discovered that 99 IPA can create nice modulation effects, too, with painted surfaces that have more than one layer. I had a concrete road surface where I built up the color but wasn't totally satisfied with the final look because there wasn't enough variation. I applied a quick wash of 99 IPA randomly and after evaporation it left a very realistic surface modulation which made the road look more realistic. Worth experimenting with, I believe.
Yes. That is how I painted the barge slip deck as you describe. The excess IPA reactivates the underlying layers and creates colors that are practically unachievable with a brush.😁@@rrfaniowa
Such a tremendous video, there's a ton of tips & tricks packed into this (and all your vids). One of the "tools" I didn't hear you mention when you did the washes (filters) on the pilot is GRAVITY. As you say you can get such cool effects with this technique. The wash will act differently on a subject laying flat versus one that's positioned vertically. I belive you did the pilot in a vertical position. Great job again Boomer, thank you! I can't wait for you decoder video!
Sometimes I lay the subject flat like you say to achieve certain effects. I should be releasing several decoder episodes over the next month so I cover all the bases. ;-)
Most of us are always trying to gain / acquire more space for our layouts…even after we start planning and building….that said…because of you Boomer…I need to acquire more space for my paints and supplies….😎 Thanks again for great modeling advice with first hand demonstration. Randt
Dear Boomer, absolutely awesome project! Love the way you showed all the different steps. Beautiful how the separate parts slowly come to life when each layer is applied. Super duper SRY locomotive. Pleasure to watch! Cheerio
Boomer, Very nice, the video is just the right length. I was able to space out 1 hot-x-bun, 2 Easter Eggs ( medium size), 2 cups of coffee. There should be more day's like this, thank you. Cheers, Chris Perry.
This is such a good hobby and your videos encourage me so much and I'm so thankful of all the tutorials and videos not only you produce but a lot of others also. Get your rest daily Boomer we need you in the hobby sir . . . This is Brian from the Eaton Steel Mill in Kansas, I thought I better check in on you cause I'm a big fan of the same type of locomotives that you use on your prototypical shelf layout. The 35 series of EMD engines has always been one of my favorite of engines. I've never been a big fan of GE engines but since I've seen your BC Rail 8-40b I've turned my likings towards the big GE's. Cheers Mr. Boomer . . . Hats off to you sir 😊
My wife does not like it when I watch your painting videos. It always results in more paints that I need to add to my inventory. Great tutorial!! Thanks & cheers - Larry.
Hey Boomer, not sure what happened with all the smiley faces its embarrassing that it happened must have done it when the phone was in my back pocket cant blame the cat.
I've always used a primer when painting models... i never started using Tamiya paints until i discovered your channel and now love them. That said, what you said about them being a primer makes perfect sense. Always learning. Thanks for the great content. Your videos inspire me to push my own modeling skills.👍👍👍
Ok, the “artists never over analyze” made me laugh because I remember someone with dozens of samples of green River paint ranting about over analyzing. Thank you, that made my day.
"What I want to do I do not do, but what I hate I do" . . . lol. I do it for sure. On the other hand, I also do my best work when I don't if that makes any sense. ☺😉
I need to try some of that Tamiya tape. I've always used the common "magic transparent tape" (not the crystal-clear tape) rather than any paper types. The magic tape is very thin plastic, has very-sharp edges with no paper fibers, and it cuts very cleanly with an Exacto. The only thing is that you can't leave in on the model more than a few hours or it will leave a residue. Even when I was using Floquil or Scalecoat, I'd wait only a few minutes (no more than an hour) to pull the tape. Regarding clear-coating before decaling, I've never liked to clear-coat. I find it much easier to control the precise placement of the decal over a dull paint surface than a very-slippery glossy one. On glossy paint the decal tends to "hydroplane" and float on the surface tension of the water (water tends to bead on a glossy finish). Of course, there has to be a film of water under the decal as you place it (to avoid the "silvering" or otherwise trapping tiny air pockets), but this is easy enough and even on a dull finish I have no issues. One thing I always do is to pretty-much rinse all the glue off the decal before I place it on the model. The glue isn't needed once Solvaset or Microsol is used because the decal substrate then melts onto the paint surface and it's held fast that way. If glue is left on, I've found that over time it discolors around the edges--and wherever the glue has been smeared on the model--and ruins the look. It's interesting how we all have different methods.
When applying decals on a flat finish it can be hit or miss. I have yet to experience "silvering" on a gloss finish, but I have over a flat finish - but not always. Tamiya tape is the best tape out there in my opinion. Tried everything else and they have a place for sure, but Tamiya is consistently reliable - especially with their paints.
I painted my little MNNR 316 with Tamiya gloss enamel as a base for my decals, but committed the cardinal sin of forgetting to carefully clean everything again after liberal use of micro-sol. After a few days I started to apply Tamiya acrylic semi-gloss clear to the cab, only for a white halo to appear where the puddles of micro-sol had been 😱 I had an initial moment of panic before, in desperation, I grabbed a cotton bud and isopropyl and managed to carefully wash off the just-applied clear without damaging the decals. Needless to say I then thoroughly cleaned everything before starting again. Rookie mistake, but it left my heart in my mouth after so much work. I'm certain it's only the quality of Tamiya paints that saved me from having to repaint and decal the cab. After watching your videos I've been migrating my disparate collection of paints over to Tamiya and I have to say it's made modelling life so much nicer. You've done a beautiful job on that SD35, what a gorgeous finished result. I hope you had a happy and blessed Easter.
Tamiya acrylic is about the easiest paint to use (especially in an airbrush) and the quality is second to none. I would paint any model with it no problem and be happy. Cheers ~ Boomer.
You are one of the first persons to admit that lately . . . lol. Been trying to make people aware of that. It makes airbrushing much easier as well.@@contributor7219
@@boomerdiorama Like many, I was stuck on the old enamels that were around from the days of my father. They were okay but I found they constantly frustrated my efforts to get really consistent results with my airbrush. With Tamiya acrylics I can 'set and forget' air pressure just under 20psi and get perfect results every time. I don't need to clean the tip whilst using the airbrush, except as a precaution when changing colours during a session. I'm a convert to Tamiya acrylics, thanks to watching your work with them, and I won't be changing any time soon.
Wow! It was worth the wait to get to see this video; another superb tutorial! I've been custom painting locomotives for well nigh 30 years, and have exclusively used Scalecoat paints with outstanding results. With that company's sad final demise, I've been trying to decide where to go. You've convinced me to give Tamiya a serious look. This tutorial is one of your best. You lay out the goals, provide amazing instruction, and then give us the results. Thank you for all this informations and your effort. Can't wait for the next installment.
Thank you for that. Unfortunately, some of the video (like decal application) failed so I had to amend the video some. I will revisit the decal procedure again down the road. Cheers.
The bracket above the rear headlight is from its Atlantic Coast Line days. It originally had gyralight mounted to it. Really loving all of your content!
Boomer, great video on the painting of the Locomotive. Well explained, and well shot. The tip on the decals is great, I have never had good results, I will have to try again using the correct way, instead of weathering them to non existence. The finished result is very prototypical of the photos, and touching you did. Thank you for sharing, and cheers, stay safe, Michael
Beautiful locomotive, that turned great. I painted an old Athearn bb sd40-2 into MRL 250 a few years ago. Microscale decals are my favorite. They always seem to work when properly installed.
I have worked in a hobby shop in the states for the last 24 years and X21 is a flattening agent to be added to any Tamiya gloss paints to make them a semi gloss or a flat paint. If you let the flat clear settle out that layer of grey too off white looking stuff in the bottom is the flat base added to their gloss clear to make it a flat clear. Hopefully this helps a few people out. You will need to mess around with the mix ratios to get it right but that is what X21 is intended to be used for. Happy modeling
In my pro painting days, plastic was always painted gloss or semi goss straight onto plastic. The only time primer or base coat was used, was when the painted plastic was to match the same exact colour as on wood or metal surfaces near by. ( Primed plastic will need repainting long before direct gloss on). Hope that was helpful. Great video, a pleasure to watch. Thanks Boomer.
The box behind the cab is an electrical compartment air filter box. Actually, Cannon has 2 different types of this filter box if I recall correctly. And I think this was all a part of the dash 2 line. Boomer, this is a master class in how to paint and decal. You are a superb teacher. Cheers Rob
Nice masking and paint job! Weathering as well! While I’m not giving up my Scalecoat II for acrylics, I am going to give your wet on wet weathering acrylics method a go. 😂
You are right about the primer. When I started using acrylic enamels to paint brass models I was worried about it sticking. I did some tests and found that there was no difference between primed and unprimed brass. I even used a wire brush. Flat paint covers way better than gloss. I do flat color, then clear gloss, then decals, then clear satin.
Awesome! You are bang on! That is what I have been trying to teach for two years now . . . lol. Been doing it for over thirty years. ;-) Cheers ~ Boomer.
Great content, as always! The “bars” you added to the trucks, my best guess would be that they are hangers/stiffeners for the conversion from clasp(2 shoes/wheel) to single shoe per wheel brake rigging. The actuation is done through the rigging that’s more tucked inside below the bar. Though we don’t have very many old locos left, I did get to spend a fair amount of time working with them and miss that turbo 567 sound.
I think it turned out O.K. This is one of the reasons why I like shooting Tamiya "flat" acrylics - thin. It's almost idiot proof and in most cases, comes out great. The trouble can occur when you clear coat. With the latter in mind, you can always fix it if you weather the locomotive. I find cleaner paint jobs can be a little more challenging if that makes sense.
ONE reason to use a primer is to get a uniform layer to add your color to. I Like primer. That being said, your models always come out looking great, so it certainly works well for you to skip that step! :)
Wonderful presentation! I've done "dee-cals" for many years and I STILL Learned something from you. A bit of trivia; "MC" from Microscale rfers to "MiniCal", hat is a decal set printed on a small sheet or that only covers ONE car or loco, etc. You are into Tamiya, but in reference to your use of MicroSol, I have gone to Tamiya's Mark Fit Strong, item 87135, and I'm VERY happy with that stuff. It seems a bit stronger than MicroSol, but not nearly so brutal to the decals as Walthers Solvaset.
That engine actually got retrucked going to MRL with standard flexi coil trucks vs the SD7, 9, 24, 35 triple clasped trucks. 385 was built as ACL, to SCL which is where the rear vertical light plate comes from on the rear. Their GP30s, 35s, 40s and GP38-2s had that same feature that held Mars lights. The boxes on the left rear of EMD cabs are electrical cabinet filter boxes.
I really appreciate you pointing those details out! I am certainly no expert on all things railroad and always appreciate the knowledge that people like yourself are willing to share.
@boomerdiorama trying to retruck the atlas is an absolute pain in the ass. I've got so many projects to finish, 1 is a Atlas SD35. I don't know if I'll ever finish this stuff lol. But enough time then all this other stuff just keeps coming out lol. I'll probably be one of those that dies off with all this stuff predominantly nib but I hope not. It's rare to see actual modeling nowadays as the "kids" are satisfied with it out of the box. Still you do fantastic work.
Another great tutorial, Boomer. Quick question. Handrails are often/usually a "slippery" plastic. Do you have to prep them differently prior to actual painting? Thanks.
Great question. The problem with handrails is the "delrin" plastic they use is not friendly to paint so you need to clean them with Isopropyl Alcohol. They all chip no matter what paint you use. I avoid primer or (snake oil) substance because they get "fat" fast and look ugly. I spray them with a heavier coat of paint initially and then hand paint them with some acrylic clear coat after the base paint is dry. The nice thing about Vallejo Acrylic clear is it shrinks so it won't go fat too quick when you apply several layers. I put them on dead last as well. The key is to visualize one solid coat of paint around the rail (like a shell) and then to seal it with acrylic clear coat. I like to use the Vallejo Matte Varnish (100% Acrylic Resin) # 70.52 applied by hand with a traditional brush. Unfortunately, handrails will always be subject to abuse so I touch them up now-and-again like they would in the real world with a brush and just live with them. It also helps if the handrails are close in color to the prototype. They will all chip at some point the more we handle them though. ;-)
Hope you had a good BD, and happy Easter. First, I like my locomotives to be weathered, maybe not rust buckets but well used. Because I do N scale I am ham strung on what details I can do. Mostly MU, cab shades, and fans and if the picture I am working from have something I can scratch build I will add it. I really liked the way you did your cab shades. The way you shoot your videos where you segmented the different sections on the build are great. When I am practicing your technics It allows me to go to a section rather than rewatch the whole Vlog. I can honestly say you have made me a better modeler. Thanks!!
I like them heavily weathered most times as well. The reason I did this one, this way, is because the next one which I am finishing is heavily weathered and I love the contrast of the two together. Actually there are three (like the porotype) I plan to model and paint as well. Cheers.
I shoot with approx 40-50 P.S.I. depending on the paint viscosity. I find the higher it is the less chance of spattering. I also try to shoot it with thin layers as well to avoid "orange" peel effect.@@bobhastings6464
Not sure at this point. Think about the hours in this and then do some math to determine the equivalence in the real world. I have over 5,000 hours in this when you include everything so far.
Well worth the price whatever it would be. By far you have most realistic shelf layout I’ve ever seen. And the way how you describe how you do everything in such detail is greatly appreciated. Thank you 🚂🔥🔥
Hi Boomer , I got a little tip which I stumbled across the other day after a long modeling session . You know how you get build up of glue on the tops of the bottles and caps of CA eg (ZapGap), well I dipped a paper towel into some Isopropanol and cleaned the top of the bottle it comes straight off and use cotton wool tips to clean the little cap. Though this might be some help, yes I also have around 10 bottles of Tamiya jars , I use them if Im mixing 2 colours together also add a ball bearing into the bottle this helps when stirring then label them with masking tape and a sharpie Really enjoying vlogs on the SD35 that super detailing will look very nice when finished, Thanks Shaun
Boomer-super fantastic video on loco painting and decaling ! Very comprehensive and detailed to lead us through all the steps to get a professional result. Had to laugh though on the pronunciation of "dekels" versus the more American pronunciation of "deecals"-just sayin'. Fine work-keep the videos coming!
i wish I had the patience ... I know the pair of GP 38-2s I'd like to have (not really for running on a model railroad, but more as display like a number of other weird models).. but yeah.... so much detail...
It came out amazing!!! On camera, it didn’t even look like decals, they looked like you hand painted them (you probably could but got lazy, went the easy way out, LOL) I gotta try your method of decs, it truly looks great. Everything you’ve done/showed us, I’ve tried and it works (not everything, okay, maybe 6 things) but what I’ve done worked fine, your an amazing teacher but I draw the line at making bears, salmon and eagles, no way, I’m 72, my patience is thinned (to much IPA? LOL) Ron
Hello Boomer, about the painting job. Do you also thin the XF85 rubber black with IPA or do you apply it direct from the jar. The coverage of the white styrene is magnificent. And you are right about the Tamiya for airbrush it is for sure the best. More modelers should pay more attention on their painting job and use after the Tamiya the Vallejo acrylics thinned as washes to build up layer after layer as filters. The more patient you are the better the result will be. Cheers from the Netherlands, Modellbahn Rosenbahn Ronald
When I spray the Tamiya (XF) flat colors I thin with IPA. SUbsequently I use the IPA to clean my airbrush as well because it is cheap. I never shoot Tamiya straight from the Jar I always thin it 50/50 at the start. On the other hand, I thin the Tamiya Clear Coat with the recommended Tamiya Acrylic thinner (X-20A). 😁
I used around .030" Rod from Evergreen plastics. I drill out the existing holes, insert the rod, weld the shade (made from scrap) onto the roof edge and the rod. Then I nip off the rod on a severe angle under the shade to feather it out. I have yet to break one yet like this. Then I paint it afterwards. Best to do it before paint so you can melt it good onto the hood and rod.
SD 24 &SD35 had these trucks with three brake cylinders and on SP this were used in their later years as heavy switchers in the major yaards. My guess is that in some point while refurbished my MRL refurbished this engine, they switched or reconfigured them to what is standard on the 40- series. Still enjoying your channel and everything you post Cheers r
I would try and strip them. They will look much better (more crisp) and you will like them more. I have a locomotive I am finishing right now that I have reworked (stripped) and painted three times. I finally love it now. Cheers. ;-)
Fantastic work as always! QUESTION: Roughly, what air pressure do you run through your airbrush? I remember you mentioning something about air pressure in a previous video, but I don't remember which video it was.
The sill, walkway that attaches to the main hood section didn't look like it was completely painted black, looked like overspray and not an even coat. Am I seeing things?
Do you weather the sill with different colors Charlie? I use multiple overspray effects combined with washes at the end for weathering the sill. The whole model gets several coats in the end not to mention flat clear coats. 😁
@boomer Diorama, Can you help me with a Black Alco locomotive. I have been following your techniques for a long time but i am stumped on doing a good job with a black loco, specifically a RS18u.
Boomer, have you ever had an experience with a second or third coatings of paints wrinkle or prune? I'm not sure if you've ever covered that on any of your videos? It may be a good content subject to cover. I know there are multiple causes, and if one usually stays with the same brand and type paints, plus follow that brands recommended painting instructions, all should go well. But, for those who are newer to the subject, it may be a welcome commentary. Another great, Boomer's Production....with Dusty as Co-host. Cheers! on further down the Road! Did you ever have anything to do with that "Unstoppable" movie?
The only solution to what you described is to strip the model and start again. This is why I stress the two (Acrylic) paints I use consistently with excellent results. I also describe how you can put oil paint over Acrylics in the comprehensive Boxcar series. Even then, things can go wrong with clear coats , etc.
It depends on the age of the livery.The stock XF- 8 Flat Blue is a good start for current SRY Blue. You can add a little flat black to darken it, or X-14 Sky Blue to lighten it. For the SD-35 I used the XF-8 Flat Blue with 15% X- 14 Sky Blue. Then I thinned it 50/50 with X-20A Thinner for the airbrush. At the end I sprayed it with X-35 Semi Gloss Clear.
I see quite a few painting videos where it seems the airbrushers are spraying in an open room. Perhaps that's just for the video. I'm curious if you use a spray booth?
Great question. There are more reasons than one why I shoot Tamiya acrylics with IPA at a high P.S.I. factor. High P.S.I. is achieved with a contractor or commercial compressor with a tank. The latter allows you to control the paint volume with excessive air pressure controlled via the (trigger) through the needle orifice in a very controlled manner.
I have used a spray booth in the past depending on the job. Not for this one. A hobby spray booth is useless to me because I don't shoot toxic enamels. Furthermore, small spray booths' kill the lighting and create plumes.
I use a fan (out of view) and a big open window when I spray IPA. Isopropyl Alcohol evaporates and dissipates so rapidly that there is very little atomization of paint particle in the air but more so onto the model, which is why I spray at 50-60 P.S.I.
The high pressure and high evaporation rate coupled to super thin paint, goes onto the model and not into the air. Having said this, I do wear a mask though.
I hope that helps answer the question. Cheers ~ Boomer.
@@boomerdiorama Thank you, Boomer. That answered my question and makes sense. You surprise me with using such high pressure, but I'm intrigued and will have to try that.
I discovered that 99 IPA can create nice modulation effects, too, with painted surfaces that have more than one layer. I had a concrete road surface where I built up the color but wasn't totally satisfied with the final look because there wasn't enough variation. I applied a quick wash of 99 IPA randomly and after evaporation it left a very realistic surface modulation which made the road look more realistic. Worth experimenting with, I believe.
Yes. That is how I painted the barge slip deck as you describe. The excess IPA reactivates the underlying layers and creates colors that are practically unachievable with a brush.😁@@rrfaniowa
Such a tremendous video, there's a ton of tips & tricks packed into this (and all your vids). One of the "tools" I didn't hear you mention when you did the washes (filters) on the pilot is GRAVITY. As you say you can get such cool effects with this technique. The wash will act differently on a subject laying flat versus one that's positioned vertically. I belive you did the pilot in a vertical position. Great job again Boomer, thank you! I can't wait for you decoder video!
Sometimes I lay the subject flat like you say to achieve certain effects. I should be releasing several decoder episodes over the next month so I cover all the bases. ;-)
Most of us are always trying to gain / acquire more space for our layouts…even after we start planning and building….that said…because of you Boomer…I need to acquire more space for my paints and supplies….😎
Thanks again for great modeling advice with first hand demonstration.
Randt
Lol . . . I have the same problem. ;-) Cheers.
Dear Boomer, absolutely awesome project! Love the way you showed all the different steps. Beautiful how the separate parts slowly come to life when each layer is applied. Super duper SRY locomotive. Pleasure to watch! Cheerio
Thanks a bunch Vincent. I always appreciate your thoughtful comments. Cheers ~ Boomer.
Boomer, Very nice, the video is just the right length. I was able to space out 1 hot-x-bun, 2 Easter Eggs ( medium size), 2 cups of coffee. There should be more day's like this, thank you. Cheers, Chris Perry.
Sounds great!
Great job, beautiful locomotive. Doing the decals is very satisfying and my favourite part of a paint job.
Mine too!
Mine too!
This is such a good hobby and your videos encourage me so much and I'm so thankful of all the tutorials and videos not only you produce but a lot of others also. Get your rest daily Boomer we need you in the hobby sir . . . This is Brian from the Eaton Steel Mill in Kansas, I thought I better check in on you cause I'm a big fan of the same type of locomotives that you use on your prototypical shelf layout. The 35 series of EMD engines has always been one of my favorite of engines. I've never been a big fan of GE engines but since I've seen your BC Rail 8-40b I've turned my likings towards the big GE's. Cheers Mr. Boomer . . . Hats off to you sir 😊
Thanks for sharing. I have a soft spot for some of the BCR GE's as well. Cheers. 😁👍
My wife does not like it when I watch your painting videos. It always results in more paints that I need to add to my inventory. Great tutorial!! Thanks & cheers - Larry.
😊❤
Many model railroader's wives don't like me . . . lol.
Hey Boomer, not sure what happened with all the smiley faces its embarrassing that it happened must have done it when the phone was in my back pocket cant blame the cat.
Hahaha.....@davidmason4153 you covered the channel with a nice even coat of butt dialed happiness!! THAT'S a new one.
@@brianconway4275 lol thanks Brian
Truly enjoy your work. I model exclusively steam era, but appreciate your "model theory". Additionally, your videos are overall entertaining.
Thank you very much! The steam era modeling sounds awesome as well. I used to model steam in 1/48 scale Narrow Gauge. ;-) Cheers ~ Boomer.
Thank you for all the information from someone who is terrified of an airbrush!!
Glad it was helpful!
I've always used a primer when painting models... i never started using Tamiya paints until i discovered your channel and now love them. That said, what you said about them being a primer makes perfect sense. Always learning. Thanks for the great content. Your videos inspire me to push my own modeling skills.👍👍👍
My pleasure 😊
Learn? ALWAYS... Like everyone I go through each episode. TY so much...
Thank you!
You always amaze me with the instructions, techniques and your skills🙂
Thanks for sharing! Cheers ~ Boomer.
Ok, the “artists never over analyze” made me laugh because I remember someone with dozens of samples of green River paint ranting about over analyzing. Thank you, that made my day.
"What I want to do I do not do, but what I hate I do" . . . lol.
I do it for sure. On the other hand, I also do my best work when I don't if that makes any sense. ☺😉
@@boomerdiorama Quoting Paul from Romans - love it!
Great video and the loco turned out amazing!
Thank you very much!
I need to try some of that Tamiya tape. I've always used the common "magic transparent tape" (not the crystal-clear tape) rather than any paper types. The magic tape is very thin plastic, has very-sharp edges with no paper fibers, and it cuts very cleanly with an Exacto. The only thing is that you can't leave in on the model more than a few hours or it will leave a residue. Even when I was using Floquil or Scalecoat, I'd wait only a few minutes (no more than an hour) to pull the tape.
Regarding clear-coating before decaling, I've never liked to clear-coat. I find it much easier to control the precise placement of the decal over a dull paint surface than a very-slippery glossy one. On glossy paint the decal tends to "hydroplane" and float on the surface tension of the water (water tends to bead on a glossy finish). Of course, there has to be a film of water under the decal as you place it (to avoid the "silvering" or otherwise trapping tiny air pockets), but this is easy enough and even on a dull finish I have no issues.
One thing I always do is to pretty-much rinse all the glue off the decal before I place it on the model. The glue isn't needed once Solvaset or Microsol is used because the decal substrate then melts onto the paint surface and it's held fast that way. If glue is left on, I've found that over time it discolors around the edges--and wherever the glue has been smeared on the model--and ruins the look.
It's interesting how we all have different methods.
When applying decals on a flat finish it can be hit or miss. I have yet to experience "silvering" on a gloss finish, but I have over a flat finish - but not always. Tamiya tape is the best tape out there in my opinion. Tried everything else and they have a place for sure, but Tamiya is consistently reliable - especially with their paints.
Thanks Boomer - fantastic workshop!
Thank you Peter! You are awesome! Cheers ~ Boomer.
Excellent. Thank you.
You are welcome!
I painted my little MNNR 316 with Tamiya gloss enamel as a base for my decals, but committed the cardinal sin of forgetting to carefully clean everything again after liberal use of micro-sol. After a few days I started to apply Tamiya acrylic semi-gloss clear to the cab, only for a white halo to appear where the puddles of micro-sol had been 😱 I had an initial moment of panic before, in desperation, I grabbed a cotton bud and isopropyl and managed to carefully wash off the just-applied clear without damaging the decals. Needless to say I then thoroughly cleaned everything before starting again. Rookie mistake, but it left my heart in my mouth after so much work. I'm certain it's only the quality of Tamiya paints that saved me from having to repaint and decal the cab. After watching your videos I've been migrating my disparate collection of paints over to Tamiya and I have to say it's made modelling life so much nicer. You've done a beautiful job on that SD35, what a gorgeous finished result. I hope you had a happy and blessed Easter.
Tamiya acrylic is about the easiest paint to use (especially in an airbrush) and the quality is second to none. I would paint any model with it no problem and be happy. Cheers ~ Boomer.
@@boomerdiorama Yes, I absolutely love the way it flows through my airbrush - it's almost like magic. Airbrush cleanup is so easy too.
You are one of the first persons to admit that lately . . . lol. Been trying to make people aware of that. It makes airbrushing much easier as well.@@contributor7219
@@boomerdiorama Like many, I was stuck on the old enamels that were around from the days of my father. They were okay but I found they constantly frustrated my efforts to get really consistent results with my airbrush. With Tamiya acrylics I can 'set and forget' air pressure just under 20psi and get perfect results every time. I don't need to clean the tip whilst using the airbrush, except as a precaution when changing colours during a session. I'm a convert to Tamiya acrylics, thanks to watching your work with them, and I won't be changing any time soon.
Wow! It was worth the wait to get to see this video; another superb tutorial! I've been custom painting locomotives for well nigh 30 years, and have exclusively used Scalecoat paints with outstanding results. With that company's sad final demise, I've been trying to decide where to go. You've convinced me to give Tamiya a serious look.
This tutorial is one of your best. You lay out the goals, provide amazing instruction, and then give us the results. Thank you for all this informations and your effort. Can't wait for the next installment.
Thank you for that. Unfortunately, some of the video (like decal application) failed so I had to amend the video some. I will revisit the decal procedure again down the road. Cheers.
The bracket above the rear headlight is from its Atlantic Coast Line days. It originally had gyralight mounted to it. Really loving all of your content!
Oh . . . wow! Thank you for sharing that. 👍I always find the history of those little details fascinating.😁
Boomer, great video on the painting of the Locomotive. Well explained, and well shot.
The tip on the decals is great, I have never had good results, I will have to try again using the correct way, instead of weathering them to non existence.
The finished result is very prototypical of the photos, and touching you did.
Thank you for sharing, and cheers, stay safe, Michael
Thank you very much!
Beautiful locomotive, that turned great. I painted an old Athearn bb sd40-2 into MRL 250 a few years ago. Microscale decals are my favorite. They always seem to work when properly installed.
I have had great success with Micro Scale Decals. They are awesome!
Great lesson. Thanks!
My pleasure!
I have worked in a hobby shop in the states for the last 24 years and X21 is a flattening agent to be added to any Tamiya gloss paints to make them a semi gloss or a flat paint. If you let the flat clear settle out that layer of grey too off white looking stuff in the bottom is the flat base added to their gloss clear to make it a flat clear. Hopefully this helps a few people out. You will need to mess around with the mix ratios to get it right but that is what X21 is intended to be used for. Happy modeling
Thanks for sharing!
Fantastic work. BTW I believe that plow you worked so hard on is a rock plow.
Thanks 👍
In my pro painting days, plastic was always painted gloss or semi goss straight onto plastic. The only time primer or base coat was used, was when the painted plastic was to match the same exact colour as on wood or metal surfaces near by. ( Primed plastic will need repainting long before direct gloss on). Hope that was helpful. Great video, a pleasure to watch. Thanks Boomer.
The last time I actually used "traditional" primer, was the last time I used it . . . lol. Except for brass locomotives and rolling stock.😁
Turned out great Boomer! 👍
Thank you! Cheers!
Great video. Thank you…
Suree thing!
The box behind the cab is an electrical compartment air filter box. Actually, Cannon has 2 different types of this filter box if I recall correctly. And I think this was all a part of the dash 2 line. Boomer, this is a master class in how to paint and decal. You are a superb teacher. Cheers Rob
Thank you Rob. I appreciate the encouragement and the advice on the electrical box on the EMD. ;-)
That box behind the cab that you thought might be a tool box is actually an air filtration box
Ahhh . . . O.K. Thank you.😁
Nice masking and paint job! Weathering as well!
While I’m not giving up my Scalecoat II for acrylics, I am going to give your wet on wet weathering acrylics method a go. 😂
Please do and don't give up on the paint you have confidence in. ;-)
Asa also scale model car builder, you tips make a lot of truth , good job......thanks
I appreciate that!
You are right about the primer. When I started using acrylic enamels to paint brass models I was worried about it sticking. I did some tests and found that there was no difference between primed and unprimed brass. I even used a wire brush. Flat paint covers way better than gloss. I do flat color, then clear gloss, then decals, then clear satin.
Awesome! You are bang on!
That is what I have been trying to teach for two years now . . . lol. Been doing it for over thirty years. ;-) Cheers ~ Boomer.
Wow, that's a beautiful locomotive. I have always liked the blue and black scheme of Montana Rail Link.
Yep. SRY Rail Link looks awesome. ;-)
WOW, Great segment.
Much appreciated!
Great content, as always! The “bars” you added to the trucks, my best guess would be that they are hangers/stiffeners for the conversion from clasp(2 shoes/wheel) to single shoe per wheel brake rigging. The actuation is done through the rigging that’s more tucked inside below the bar. Though we don’t have very many old locos left, I did get to spend a fair amount of time working with them and miss that turbo 567 sound.
Thanks for sharing that. Yes indeed, those Turbo's sound awesome.
Bob Ross would be proud .... Happy Little Trains 😁
Lol . . . 😁
Absolutely Beatiful Job 😍
I think it turned out O.K. This is one of the reasons why I like shooting Tamiya "flat" acrylics - thin. It's almost idiot proof and in most cases, comes out great. The trouble can occur when you clear coat. With the latter in mind, you can always fix it if you weather the locomotive. I find cleaner paint jobs can be a little more challenging if that makes sense.
ONE reason to use a primer is to get a uniform layer to add your color to. I Like primer. That being said, your models always come out looking great, so it certainly works well for you to skip that step! :)
Like I said Tamiya "Flat" is primer. ;-) Uniform coverage is up to the painter and the subject matter. 😉
Wonderful presentation! I've done "dee-cals" for many years and I STILL Learned something from you. A bit of trivia; "MC" from Microscale rfers to "MiniCal", hat is a decal set printed on a small sheet or that only covers ONE car or loco, etc. You are into Tamiya, but in reference to your use of MicroSol, I have gone to Tamiya's Mark Fit Strong, item 87135, and I'm VERY happy with that stuff. It seems a bit stronger than MicroSol, but not nearly so brutal to the decals as Walthers Solvaset.
Wonderful! Thanks for sharing!
That engine actually got retrucked going to MRL with standard flexi coil trucks vs the SD7, 9, 24, 35 triple clasped trucks. 385 was built as ACL, to SCL which is where the rear vertical light plate comes from on the rear. Their GP30s, 35s, 40s and GP38-2s had that same feature that held Mars lights. The boxes on the left rear of EMD cabs are electrical cabinet filter boxes.
I really appreciate you pointing those details out! I am certainly no expert on all things railroad and always appreciate the knowledge that people like yourself are willing to share.
@boomerdiorama trying to retruck the atlas is an absolute pain in the ass. I've got so many projects to finish, 1 is a Atlas SD35. I don't know if I'll ever finish this stuff lol. But enough time then all this other stuff just keeps coming out lol. I'll probably be one of those that dies off with all this stuff predominantly nib but I hope not. It's rare to see actual modeling nowadays as the "kids" are satisfied with it out of the box. Still you do fantastic work.
Thanks again for another great video.
My pleasure!
Great advice as always Boomer! HAPPY Easter!
Same to you!
Another great tutorial, Boomer. Quick question. Handrails are often/usually a "slippery" plastic. Do you have to prep them differently prior to actual painting? Thanks.
Great question. The problem with handrails is the "delrin" plastic they use is not friendly to paint so you need to clean them with Isopropyl Alcohol. They all chip no matter what paint you use. I avoid primer or (snake oil) substance because they get "fat" fast and look ugly.
I spray them with a heavier coat of paint initially and then hand paint them with some acrylic clear coat after the base paint is dry. The nice thing about Vallejo Acrylic clear is it shrinks so it won't go fat too quick when you apply several layers. I put them on dead last as well. The key is to visualize one solid coat of paint around the rail (like a shell) and then to seal it with acrylic clear coat. I like to use the Vallejo Matte Varnish (100% Acrylic Resin) # 70.52 applied by hand with a traditional brush.
Unfortunately, handrails will always be subject to abuse so I touch them up now-and-again like they would in the real world with a brush and just live with them. It also helps if the handrails are close in color to the prototype. They will all chip at some point the more we handle them though. ;-)
Hope you had a good BD, and happy Easter. First, I like my locomotives to be weathered, maybe not rust buckets but well used. Because I do N scale I am ham strung on what details I can do. Mostly MU, cab shades, and fans and if the picture I am working from have something I can scratch build I will add it. I really liked the way you did your cab shades. The way you shoot your videos where you segmented the different sections on the build are great. When I am practicing your technics It allows me to go to a section rather than rewatch the whole Vlog. I can honestly say you have made me a better modeler. Thanks!!
I like them heavily weathered most times as well. The reason I did this one, this way, is because the next one which I am finishing is heavily weathered and I love the contrast of the two together. Actually there are three (like the porotype) I plan to model and paint as well. Cheers.
Looks amazing!!
It will look cool with the SD38 I plan to re-paint as well.
Thanks for all the great and useful advice in your content.
Happy Easter to you sir!
Cheers
Bob
Hey Boomer , forgot to ask .. when you were painting the blue on that engine what approx pressure were you shooting at?
Cheers
Sure thing!
I shoot with approx 40-50 P.S.I. depending on the paint viscosity. I find the higher it is the less chance of spattering. I also try to shoot it with thin layers as well to avoid "orange" peel effect.@@bobhastings6464
Thanks!
Thank you! Cheers ~ Boomer.
Excellent
Thank you!
Boomer YOU are LEGEND!
🔥🔥🔥🚂🔥
Not that you ever would but if you were to sell your shelf layout now what would you sell it for?? 😂😇🔥🔥🔥🔥🔥
Not sure at this point. Think about the hours in this and then do some math to determine the equivalence in the real world. I have over 5,000 hours in this when you include everything so far.
Well worth the price whatever it would be.
By far you have most realistic shelf layout I’ve ever seen. And the way how you describe how you do everything in such detail is greatly appreciated. Thank you 🚂🔥🔥
Happy easter my friend !! N ' so wonderfull work ! Nice job !!!
Thank you!😁
Hi Boomer , I got a little tip which I stumbled across the other day after a long modeling session .
You know how you get build up of glue on the tops of the bottles and caps of CA eg (ZapGap), well I dipped a paper towel into some Isopropanol and cleaned the top of the bottle it comes straight off and use cotton wool tips to clean the little cap.
Though this might be some help, yes I also have around 10 bottles of Tamiya jars , I use them if Im mixing 2 colours together also add a ball bearing into the bottle this helps when stirring then label them with masking tape and a sharpie
Really enjoying vlogs on the SD35 that super detailing will look very nice when finished,
Thanks
Shaun
Wow! I never tried that before. You learn something new every day. I must do this right now. Thanks for sharing this awesome tip! Cheeers ~ Boomer.
Boomer-super fantastic video on loco painting and decaling ! Very comprehensive and detailed to lead us through all the steps to get a professional result. Had to laugh though on the pronunciation of "dekels" versus the more American pronunciation of "deecals"-just sayin'. Fine work-keep the videos coming!
Many thanks!
i wish I had the patience ... I know the pair of GP 38-2s I'd like to have (not really for running on a model railroad, but more as display like a number of other weird models).. but yeah.... so much detail...
Thank you
Big Like!
Thank you!👍
It came out amazing!!!
On camera, it didn’t even look like decals, they looked like you hand painted them (you probably could but got lazy, went the easy way out, LOL)
I gotta try your method of decs, it truly looks great.
Everything you’ve done/showed us, I’ve tried and it works (not everything, okay, maybe 6 things) but what I’ve done worked fine, your an amazing teacher but I draw the line at making bears, salmon and eagles, no way, I’m 72, my patience is thinned (to much IPA? LOL) Ron
Thank you so much Ron! Cheers ~ Boomer.
Hello Boomer, about the painting job. Do you also thin the XF85 rubber black with IPA or do you apply it direct from the jar. The coverage of the white styrene is magnificent. And you are right about the Tamiya for airbrush it is for sure the best. More modelers should pay more attention on their painting job and use after the Tamiya the Vallejo acrylics thinned as washes to build up layer after layer as filters. The more patient you are the better the result will be.
Cheers from the Netherlands, Modellbahn Rosenbahn Ronald
When I spray the Tamiya (XF) flat colors I thin with IPA. SUbsequently I use the IPA to clean my airbrush as well because it is cheap.
I never shoot Tamiya straight from the Jar I always thin it 50/50 at the start. On the other hand, I thin the Tamiya Clear Coat with the recommended Tamiya Acrylic thinner (X-20A). 😁
In this you stated that you used a tube to hold the sunshade in place. What size worked best for you?
I used around .030" Rod from Evergreen plastics. I drill out the existing holes, insert the rod, weld the shade (made from scrap) onto the roof edge and the rod. Then I nip off the rod on a severe angle under the shade to feather it out. I have yet to break one yet like this. Then I paint it afterwards. Best to do it before paint so you can melt it good onto the hood and rod.
Happy Easter, all!
Thank you!
Excellent video of this process. Where did you get the burnish tool you used to seal the tape? That looks like a very handy tool
Art supply store. They are for sculpting clay, etc.
Happy Easter...Boomer 🤙
Thank you.
" ✌️👍 " ...❤ 😎
Cheers.
I thought you might like that , let me know how you went.
Cheers!
SD 24 &SD35 had these trucks with three brake cylinders and on SP this were used in their later years as heavy switchers in the major yaards. My guess is that in some point while refurbished my MRL refurbished this engine, they switched or reconfigured them to what is standard on the 40- series. Still enjoying your channel and everything you post Cheers
r
Thank you!😁
When cleaning the airbrush after using Tamiya clear coat products, do you use the IPA or the Tamiya airbrush cleaner?
IPA. Tamiya Airbrush cleaner is too expensive to clean airbrush.
I have a pair of Atlas SD 35s that I would like to repaint. Do you suggest a strip the paint or just paint over the existing dark green?
I would try and strip them. They will look much better (more crisp) and you will like them more. I have a locomotive I am finishing right now that I have reworked (stripped) and painted three times. I finally love it now. Cheers. ;-)
MC on Microscale decals equals Mini - Cal. It is not a full sheet.
O.K. ;-)
Fantastic work as always! QUESTION: Roughly, what air pressure do you run through your airbrush? I remember you mentioning something about air pressure in a previous video, but I don't remember which video it was.
I tend to run @ 40 to 50 P.S.I.
@@boomerdiorama Thank you!
The sill, walkway that attaches to the main hood section didn't look like it was completely painted black, looked like overspray and not an even coat. Am I seeing things?
Do you weather the sill with different colors Charlie? I use multiple overspray effects combined with washes at the end for weathering the sill. The whole model gets several coats in the end not to mention flat clear coats. 😁
@boomer Diorama, Can you help me with a Black Alco locomotive. I have been following your techniques for a long time but i am stumped on doing a good job with a black loco, specifically a RS18u.
Paint it dark grey and save the black for vents and pin washes, etc.
Showing clear coats to make it clear. Pun intended? 😊
Absolutely!
Boomer, have you ever had an experience with a second or third coatings of paints wrinkle or prune? I'm not sure if you've ever covered that on any of your videos?
It may be a good content subject to cover. I know there are multiple causes, and if one usually stays with the same brand and type paints, plus follow that brands recommended painting instructions, all should go well.
But, for those who are newer to the subject, it may be a welcome commentary.
Another great, Boomer's Production....with Dusty as Co-host. Cheers! on further down the Road!
Did you ever have anything to do with that "Unstoppable" movie?
The only solution to what you described is to strip the model and start again. This is why I stress the two (Acrylic) paints I use consistently with excellent results. I also describe how you can put oil paint over Acrylics in the comprehensive Boxcar series.
Even then, things can go wrong with clear coats , etc.
Boomer, which Tamiya colors do you mix for your Washington Corp blue?
It depends on the age of the livery.The stock XF- 8 Flat Blue is a good start for current SRY Blue. You can add a little flat black to darken it, or X-14 Sky Blue to lighten it. For the SD-35 I used the XF-8 Flat Blue with 15% X- 14 Sky Blue. Then I thinned it 50/50 with X-20A Thinner for the airbrush. At the end I sprayed it with X-35 Semi Gloss Clear.
@@boomerdiorama Thank you
Why do modelers in Australia and Canada insist on pronouncing decals as " deck-alls " and in the USA, we pronounce them as "dee-cals"? LOL!!!
Same dilemma as "Zee" or "Zed" . . . who knows . . . lol.