Jimmy, A tip for your windows, grab some of the clear plastic from the kato track packs and use it with some white glue to add "glass" to your windows. The little extra sheen adds a lot of realism.
Visit your local Harbor Freight or other tool store and score a cheap set of "gasket punches." These are round sharpened tubes that are used to punch holes in gasket material. They come in all sorts of sizes and make really clean holes in any kind of styrene, cardboard, or even thin metal.
You can take this one stage further, make the base thicker either by using thicker material or by adding a frame around the edge, then you can set it into the "Ground" surface, this stops the effect you sometimes see where the buildings seem to float on the ground, you can either increase the depth of the building or if you have pavement (I believe in the US you call it sidewalk) around the building you can do as you showed here and attach the building to that and increase the depth of the pavement, this gives a more natural look and you don't end up with the buildings bottom edge floating above the ground.
I was planning on using this idea in my new layout -- in most towns the block size is a standard with minor exceptions, my thought is to create most of my town blocks to be interchangeable, this way I can vary areas from residential to light commercial/retail for a running session. I'm using a variation of T-Trac modules but I have a 1" foam top supported by a 1/8" plywood deck to add rigidity to the systems.
Maybe consider a "Dremel" style tool for drilling. Slow speed setting works without melting. Was worried about fingers when you drilled close to them.... have noted no bandaids from dollar store so you must be good at it😁 Go Tim's- double double!
Looks cool in the dark. Something though: get some N scale streetlights rather than the 3 storey HO scale one you've used here, it'll make the scene a lot more convincing
Jimmy! Excellent video and great tips, but please don't hold the styrene up to the drill like that! You will eventually end up drilling into/through a finger!
This was super fun to watch. I learned a lot. Regarding your camera focus, if you set the camera to Manual focus once you setup the shot then it won't keep trying to fix itself during filming. There's usually still an option (with a half press of the shutter) to have 'focus assist' help you get things sharp. Then you can start recording knowing your hands won't ever force the camera out of focus again. That would help a lot I think.
Great video, did almost same thing,miniature on/off switch with roof vent to hide ,3volt led and coin battery installed in building ,can move anywhere, keep up the great work
Some great tips in here, Jimmy! Diffusion is key for sure. Sometimes what i do is block out some windows and add more diffusion to certain windows so add a sense of random to how bright (or on) the lights are. Happy new year, buddy! Lets do a collab soon!
I’m going to ask the question… why do you not put in window glazing? It seems every building I see you build lacks window glass. This is not a criticism, just a question. I save the clear packaging from chocolates and other items to use, which works really well.
There for awhile I thought it was looking more & more like the administration complex for a Fire and EMS Department what with all the red and white, But in the end it looks very nice👍🏽👍🏽⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️
What is your recommendation on 3D printers. I am wanting elliptical heads and dished heads for vessels. Also comes for cooling towers. Your suggestions would be a great help.
I just noticed you pulling a me... WHY is it a temptation to pull glue strands while still hot/warm? It just causes more and more pulling off rather than waiting for it to cool enough to pull... I’m so, so bad for that one and always cursing at myself to wait a few seconds longer lol
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Jimmy, A tip for your windows, grab some of the clear plastic from the kato track packs and use it with some white glue to add "glass" to your windows. The little extra sheen adds a lot of realism.
Visit your local Harbor Freight or other tool store and score a cheap set of "gasket punches." These are round sharpened tubes that are used to punch holes in gasket material. They come in all sorts of sizes and make really clean holes in any kind of styrene, cardboard, or even thin metal.
You can take this one stage further, make the base thicker either by using thicker material or by adding a frame around the edge, then you can set it into the "Ground" surface, this stops the effect you sometimes see where the buildings seem to float on the ground, you can either increase the depth of the building or if you have pavement (I believe in the US you call it sidewalk) around the building you can do as you showed here and attach the building to that and increase the depth of the pavement, this gives a more natural look and you don't end up with the buildings bottom edge floating above the ground.
I was planning on using this idea in my new layout -- in most towns the block size is a standard with minor exceptions, my thought is to create most of my town blocks to be interchangeable, this way I can vary areas from residential to light commercial/retail for a running session. I'm using a variation of T-Trac modules but I have a 1" foam top supported by a 1/8" plywood deck to add rigidity to the systems.
Maybe consider a "Dremel" style tool for drilling. Slow speed setting works without melting. Was worried about fingers when you drilled close to them.... have noted no bandaids from dollar store so you must be good at it😁
Go Tim's- double double!
I would recommend using Just Plug lights from Woodland Scenics. Its easier to set up with sequencing on and off and no need to solder anything.
Looks cool in the dark. Something though: get some N scale streetlights rather than the 3 storey HO scale one you've used here, it'll make the scene a lot more convincing
Jimmy! Excellent video and great tips, but please don't hold the styrene up to the drill like that! You will eventually end up drilling into/through a finger!
And/or breaking the styrene. Much better to set it on a piece of scrap board (even cardboard) for drilling.
This was super fun to watch. I learned a lot. Regarding your camera focus, if you set the camera to Manual focus once you setup the shot then it won't keep trying to fix itself during filming. There's usually still an option (with a half press of the shutter) to have 'focus assist' help you get things sharp. Then you can start recording knowing your hands won't ever force the camera out of focus again. That would help a lot I think.
Great video, did almost same thing,miniature on/off switch with roof vent to hide ,3volt led and coin battery installed in building ,can move anywhere, keep up the great work
Very nice Jimmy, you could add some more lights in the high building and use a switch to switch to upper floor or lower floor
It's a good idea to have buildings able to move on or off the layout or to a new spot
Some great tips in here, Jimmy! Diffusion is key for sure. Sometimes what i do is block out some windows and add more diffusion to certain windows so add a sense of random to how bright (or on) the lights are.
Happy new year, buddy! Lets do a collab soon!
Glad you made this video. I've been thinking on how to incorporate some of my buildings in my town scene to have this effect. - Jason
Happy Thanksgiving Jimmy to you and your family ... God Bless!!!
Great video, liked the diffusion idea
Looks fantastic! 👍
I’m going to ask the question… why do you not put in window glazing? It seems every building I see you build lacks window glass. This is not a criticism, just a question. I save the clear packaging from chocolates and other items to use, which works really well.
Oh awesome Jimmy, great video, thank you!
Another good video Jimmy. Remember black with 2 sugars. Happy thanksgiving.
The Glue Syringes is great idea. But are these one time use? How does it work?
I have some of the Eve Model street lights too, but they seem a bit tall for the scale. Other than that, for the price they are good.
There for awhile I thought it was looking more & more like the administration complex for a Fire and EMS Department what with all the red and white, But in the end it looks very nice👍🏽👍🏽⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️
What is your recommendation on 3D printers. I am wanting elliptical heads and dished heads for vessels. Also comes for cooling towers. Your suggestions would be a great help.
good vid on you layout keep up the good vid thanks lee
The one thing I don't like doing is painting the windows in nscale printed and molded kits. That build did work out pretty good for you though.
If you use a step drill for styrene it won't tear out.
Seems like whenever I drill styrene that way I end up with band aids on my fingers…
Great update from the layout! 👍🚂😀🚂😎
HC Treintje Herman from Belgium. 👍🚉😀🚉😎
nice job. But why not run all the wires for the lights through 1 hole an d passe them from one buikding to the next in a chain ? Just my 2 cents ...
Hi ya Jimmy. Nicely done.
Use plastic packages for windows they're free, well you paid for there contents. Also need a fire plug at the corner. Thanks
You may have already done a video on this but how do you make your clump trees that you use on your hills . Thanks David @ low country railroad
Oh a video is coming, don’t you worry!
hi pal do you also have ho scale printed models in your range
Thnx for the info 👍👍👍👍
I just noticed you pulling a me... WHY is it a temptation to pull glue strands while still hot/warm? It just causes more and more pulling off rather than waiting for it to cool enough to pull... I’m so, so bad for that one and always cursing at myself to wait a few seconds longer lol
where do order quick connect
Lifting things up and putting things down? That sounds way to much like working out!!
Lolol
Wait, you invented 'not glue'