To loosen and tighten the flywheel nut, I remove the spark plug and feed some nylon rope into the head then turn the crank till the piston compresses the rope and locks the crank, this way you won't damage anything and it locks the crank fine
@@lowbuckgarage1 You put it to top dead centre, you feed enough rope in to fill the top of the cylinder head so the piston doesn't go right up, there's plenty of space for the valves to open and not hit anything, I've used this way for 40 years and never had any problems. I love all the mod you have done to the bike, I used to race a Honda XL185 back in the 90's, great times, loved the bike.
If your like me and have the piston off, stick an socket extender through the connecting rod, should lock everything up nicely. Still needed and impact gun though to get the bloody nut off lol
Really good information can’t wait to hear how the new carb runs. I’m running a stock carb with a BBR ignition can’t wait to see if you get some power gains
Your right, probably the better way to go. although I did like the idea of using my original, no worries about fitment or balance issues that way. Thanks for watchin
Wow really? I soak the hell out of mine with maxima air filter oil and never seem to have problems. I do think Twin-Air is a better filter though, they were out of stock at the time.
If you want to take more wait off, go with a clarke fuel tank. It will give you a extra gallon of fuel if wanted. But the tank it self is way lighter. I personally went with the clear plastic and just left off the side plastics.
@@shockadellick You’re right, In hindsight I now see that the 150R flywheel is the easier/cheaper route to go. At the time I wasn’t sure if the 150s actually would work, and I hoped the machine shop would take 16+ ounces off mine - they didn’t - only 13. Now, about those forks…
I was only able to find one single source, you’ll have to contact them directly. Hope this helps. www.ebay.com/usr/caydencycle?mkevt=1&mkcid=1&mkrid=711-53200-19255-0&campid=5337464679&customid=&toolid=10001
Looks like you're still running the stock steel foot peg brackets? I fab'd a new set from 1/2" aluminum plate to mount aftermarket CRF250X pegs and shaved a lb or so, those brackets are HEAVY. Pretty easy to do if you have a wood cutting bandsaw and router table.
Made my own aluminum mounts, purchased CRF250x brackets on eBay cheap. Almost done! It’s tedious work using a jig saw, grinding wheel and dremel but it can be done. I’ll be posting that video too. Thanks for watchin
I believe 68mm is the absolute max bore, after that, you have to resleeve cylinder and bore the cases. I believe they can then be taken to 270cc after that. Pretty pricey.
From a shop called Cayden Cycle. They had them on EBay. That’s the only source I found. You might also try looking on the “Thumpertalk” website for more info or sources. Possible to make your own but pretty tricky.
@Italeao oh yes, my machinist friend said the starter gear shaft was an extremely hard steel, very difficult to drill without breaking it. I don’t recommend it.
Shaking hands with danger, drilling out the axles. Hollow axles are heat treated once they've been bored. And you can torque that flywheel to the moon, but if that taper isn't matched, it's going to shear the key. Many race ignition systems don't have a key way, just a lapped taper.
Of course we all know a solid axle will always be stronger than a hollow one, but so are solid handlebars, and you don’t see many of those around. I did do some research beforehand, and depending on the type of torsional forces. A hollow axle, when drilled 33%, like we did, loses less than 10% of its strength yet loses 1/3 of its weight. For a solid axle of diameter 9.5 mm (radius 4.75)the strngth is 4.75^4 / 4.75 = 107 for the same axle with a 5mm axial hole the strength is (4.75^4 - 2.5^4)/4.75 = 99 the strength is reduced by only 7.5% In regards to the flywheel, I used the original flywheel so there really wasn’t any need to use lapping compound to match tapers because it didn’t change. And you’re right, the key doesn’t keep it in place, it only aligns the flywheel for timing. Proper torque is all that’s needed in this case but it is critical. Thanks for watching.
@@lowbuckgarage1 Good to see some due diligence. However, your math does not hold true across the full spectrum of steel alloys and 5he various heat treatment processes. My son and I have a couple of 230's for play bikes. His friends often come over to rip around our extensive property. The bikes get treated as you might expect young lads to treat them with some rather hard knocks. I've replaced two bent, front axles. While the materials these bikes are made from is certainly up to the task of handling a lot of abuse, it is not premium quality.
Muito legal amigo,sou do Brasil aqui tem muito OHC também 125cc 150cc 200cc e 230cc porém preparamos esses motores para vir mais potência eu tenho um OHC200 com preparação para 250 cilindradas muito forte esses motores,pra você que gosta de motos off road recomendo o canal do Alemão performance#66 ele prepara muitos motores OHC, valeu amigo 🤝🏻🇧🇷
Hey Amigo! Thanks. Yes I see a lot of Brazilians racing these 230 machines down there. Not many racing them here. We are jealous too of all the aftermarket parts and shops available for you there! I’ll be competing with my 240cc again at Vet world championships 11/5/22 at Glen Helen National Raceway with better engine and CRF150R forks and race shock this time. I see I am already subscribed to Alemeo#66, great channel. We love Brazil!
Hi Tom! Very interesting video! I'm currently working on a similar project with a slightly different bike: the European HONDA XLR125R sharing a very similar engine. I currently managed to shave about 24 pounds but there was so much more to remove on this one than the CRF230F. I chose different solutions about the suspension: 1989 CR125R fork and clamps, XR350 aluminium swingarm. I managed to install a 165cc big bore kit on a first engine, then a chinese clone of the CRF230L crankshaft and the entire top end for much better performance on a second engine, and so much more minor performance and weight upgrades (air filter mod , PWK carb swap, camshaft...) Feel free to visit my channel. It's in French but English subtitles are available. I'm sure we can share some tricks about our beloved small cc bikes. Cheers from France!
For my banshee, I use a penny in the clutch basket gear to lock the engine safely.
A soft Penny, perfect! I should’ve thought of that, next time.
Rear axle worked great thanks!!
To loosen and tighten the flywheel nut, I remove the spark plug and feed some nylon rope into the head then turn the crank till the piston compresses the rope and locks the crank, this way you won't damage anything and it locks the crank fine
As long as it’s at, and remains at TDC or BDC. Otherwise you could possibly bend a valve?
@@lowbuckgarage1 You put it to top dead centre, you feed enough rope in to fill the top of the cylinder head so the piston doesn't go right up, there's plenty of space for the valves to open and not hit anything, I've used this way for 40 years and never had any problems.
I love all the mod you have done to the bike, I used to race a Honda XL185 back in the 90's, great times, loved the bike.
@@esmeben Ingenious method! I’ll have try it next time.
If your like me and have the piston off, stick an socket extender through the connecting rod, should lock everything up nicely. Still needed and impact gun though to get the bloody nut off lol
We need to see a video on the carb swap!!!! Love your content man!
Soon!
Check it out:
ruclips.net/video/lwyaWG9hq_Y/видео.html
Really good information can’t wait to hear how the new carb runs. I’m running a stock carb with a BBR ignition can’t wait to see if you get some power gains
The carb install vid is almost complete.
Here you go
ruclips.net/video/MJfyCQu8buU/видео.html
You can also use the CRF150 flywheel. It’s 9oz lighter and saves you the wait time of the machine shop and maybe a little money
Your right, probably the better way to go. although I did like the idea of using my original, no worries about fitment or balance issues that way. Thanks for watchin
Hey just a 411 on those uni air filters they don't filter worth a damn even with bel ray oil. My bike needed rings after 30 hours.
Wow really? I soak the hell out of mine with maxima air filter oil and never seem to have problems. I do think Twin-Air is a better filter though, they were out of stock at the time.
@@lowbuckgarage1 yeah the foam isn't as dense as it should be oem or twin air is the way to go.
If you want to take more wait off, go with a clarke fuel tank. It will give you a extra gallon of fuel if wanted. But the tank it self is way lighter. I personally went with the clear plastic and just left off the side plastics.
Thanks
More fuel but lighter, that is interesting. Knowing exactly how much fuel is left would be useful too, hmmm🤔
On a brand new bike is it absolutely necessary to replace the gasket if I'm super careful?
I was careful and reused mine, but it’s not recommended. Mine didn’t leak. Thanks for watchin’!
Great video. Thanks for sharing. Time to fire up the lathe lol.
Careful! Good luck let me know.
@@shockadellick You’re right, In hindsight I now see that the 150R flywheel is the easier/cheaper route to go. At the time I wasn’t sure if the 150s actually would work, and I hoped the machine shop would take 16+ ounces off mine - they didn’t - only 13.
Now, about those forks…
Where can I get a 4° advanced woodruff key from? PLEASE HELP!
I was only able to find one single source, you’ll have to contact them directly. Hope this helps.
www.ebay.com/usr/caydencycle?mkevt=1&mkcid=1&mkrid=711-53200-19255-0&campid=5337464679&customid=&toolid=10001
Looks like you're still running the stock steel foot peg brackets? I fab'd a new set from 1/2" aluminum plate to mount aftermarket CRF250X pegs and shaved a lb or so, those brackets are HEAVY. Pretty easy to do if you have a wood cutting bandsaw and router table.
Made my own aluminum mounts, purchased CRF250x brackets on eBay cheap. Almost done! It’s tedious work using a jig saw, grinding wheel and dremel but it can be done.
I’ll be posting that video too.
Thanks for watchin
love the content men. i have same bike. i want to upgrade bore to 69.
i hope 250f cylinder bore will fit.
I believe 68mm is the absolute max bore, after that, you have to resleeve cylinder and bore the cases. I believe they can then be taken to 270cc after that. Pretty pricey.
Where did you get the advance key ?
From a shop called Cayden Cycle. They had them on EBay. That’s the only source I found. You might also try looking on the “Thumpertalk” website for more info or sources. Possible to make your own but pretty tricky.
@@lowbuckgarage1 okay thank you
30:21 Why not a hollow shaft in this gear?...
Not sure what you mean. What gear?
@@lowbuckgarage1 Sorry my english. The starting gear you mention in video, that you make these holes.
@Italeao oh yes, my machinist friend said the starter gear shaft was an extremely hard steel, very difficult to drill without breaking it. I don’t recommend it.
Shaking hands with danger, drilling out the axles. Hollow axles are heat treated once they've been bored. And you can torque that flywheel to the moon, but if that taper isn't matched, it's going to shear the key. Many race ignition systems don't have a key way, just a lapped taper.
Of course we all know a solid axle will always be stronger than a hollow one, but so are solid handlebars, and you don’t see many of those around. I did do some research beforehand, and depending on the type of torsional forces. A hollow axle, when drilled 33%, like we did, loses less than 10% of its strength yet loses 1/3 of its weight.
For a solid axle of diameter 9.5 mm (radius 4.75)the strngth is
4.75^4 / 4.75 = 107
for the same axle with a 5mm axial hole the strength is
(4.75^4 - 2.5^4)/4.75 = 99
the strength is reduced by only 7.5%
In regards to the flywheel, I used the original flywheel so there really wasn’t any need to use lapping compound to match tapers because it didn’t change. And you’re right, the key doesn’t keep it in place, it only aligns the flywheel for timing. Proper torque is all that’s needed in this case but it is critical.
Thanks for watching.
@@lowbuckgarage1 Good to see some due diligence. However, your math does not hold true across the full spectrum of steel alloys and 5he various heat treatment processes. My son and I have a couple of 230's for play bikes. His friends often come over to rip around our extensive property. The bikes get treated as you might expect young lads to treat them with some rather hard knocks. I've replaced two bent, front axles. While the materials these bikes are made from is certainly up to the task of handling a lot of abuse, it is not premium quality.
I wish you could give me a little help improving my 2016 230. I also live in California. thank you
Muito legal amigo,sou do Brasil aqui tem muito OHC também 125cc 150cc 200cc e 230cc porém preparamos esses motores para vir mais potência eu tenho um OHC200 com preparação para 250 cilindradas muito forte esses motores,pra você que gosta de motos off road recomendo o canal do Alemão performance#66 ele prepara muitos motores OHC, valeu amigo 🤝🏻🇧🇷
Hey Amigo! Thanks. Yes I see a lot of Brazilians racing these 230 machines down there. Not many racing them here. We are jealous too of all the aftermarket parts and shops available for you there!
I’ll be competing with my 240cc again at Vet world championships 11/5/22 at Glen Helen National Raceway with better engine and CRF150R forks and race shock this time. I see I am already subscribed to Alemeo#66, great channel. We love Brazil!
@@lowbuckgarage1 Boa sorte amigo 🙏🏻
Got to be the most tricked out
Honda 230 in the world.😆
I think Paul here has me beat in the trick department.
ruclips.net/video/8iagnU6k3co/видео.html
Hi Tom! Very interesting video! I'm currently working on a similar project with a slightly different bike: the European HONDA XLR125R sharing a very similar engine. I currently managed to shave about 24 pounds but there was so much more to remove on this one than the CRF230F. I chose different solutions about the suspension: 1989 CR125R fork and clamps, XR350 aluminium swingarm. I managed to install a 165cc big bore kit on a first engine, then a chinese clone of the CRF230L crankshaft and the entire top end for much better performance on a second engine, and so much more minor performance and weight upgrades (air filter mod , PWK carb swap, camshaft...) Feel free to visit my channel. It's in French but English subtitles are available. I'm sure we can share some tricks about our beloved small cc bikes. Cheers from France!
Great! I’ll check out your channel.
Took it Glen Helen, raced in World Vet Championships, mid-pack finishes both days. Check it out:
ruclips.net/video/lwyaWG9hq_Y/видео.html
Get the cam part number 1059
thanks. Planning on getting cam from Web. What is 1059?
@@lowbuckgarage1 that's a good deal... Hope everything great 👍
Don't fill your gas tank past quarter full .. you save weight there to ..
Thanks!
I covered that topic in this video:
ruclips.net/video/o5ovHodBLck/видео.htmlsi=LfXwp2MJxm3ldOWF
Took the 230 to Glen Helen for World Vet Championships. Check it out:
ruclips.net/video/lwyaWG9hq_Y/видео.html