I was running this saw for about 2 hours at about a 30-50% duty cycle ruclips.net/user/postUgkxfQm1wmg0ItKDLavxj1nXtQY9HP7EF504 and it did a great job. I used the lever for the built in sharpener to clear chip buildup out more than to actually sharpen the chain. It managed to cut some hardwood stumps much larger than it's size without bothering the neighbors with hours of 2 stroke noise.
Thanks for this video. Took my 025 to my local store for a service. They informed me that the piston was shot and that it would cost more than the saw was worth to fix. They offered me £40 to buy the saw off me. Thankfully I refused. A quick search on amazon got me to piston that you have here in the video. Followed your vid to install (as well as adding a smidge of oil), and saw now runs better than it has in years.
Many thanks for taking the time to post this instructive video. It encouraged me to take my chain saw apart, order a piston and cylinder and successfully re-assemble it. I now gave that saw a new life after the local dealer had said it was too expensive to repair.
I've been told that twice by Stihl dealers. I believed one the first time about 30 years ago and bought a new Stihl. This time, a dealer said the same thing. I just received a complete short-block rebuild kit, $58 from www.hlsproparts.com/ The dealers aren't exactly lying (though they are trying to sell saws). They get parts from the manufacturer $$$.
My grandfather had this saw and handed it down to my dad, and my dad ran this same saw for nearly 20 years on and off when I was a kid. Now that I'm adult getting into the field of tree care I started using his saw, and it has these same issues. Thanks for this tutorial, I can now keep my grandpa's saw running for hopefully another 20 years and hand it down to my grand kid.
Spins engine over at 1000 rpm with the impact wrench whilst it’s dry as a bone. Not one drop of oil added during assembly. Clear sign this bloke knows sweet FA about mechanics or engines. He’s already caused irreversible damage assembling and running it dry. Not to mention revving the tits of it whilst engine is cold and hasn’t had a chance to wash any fuel/oil around all the surfaces. Class act.
Great video. I followed your video step by step and managed to complete a piston assembly replacement in my old 025. Works like a charm now. So this gal is pretty happy she saved a bunch of repair money and has a great sense of accomplishment. Thanks to you Lenny!
I pull the intake boot through the rear handle with a piece of string. Just wrap a two foot piece of string around the end of the boot and feed the string through the hole in the rear handle. Pull the string while using your fingers to help the boot through the hole. This is the Stihl proscribed procedure, too.
Lenny, Klotz R-50 is also a very good two-stroke oil. We run it in all of our motocross bikes. I just bought an 025. For $80. It did not have an air filter on it when I bought it. It has very good compression. And it was missing the rear removable engine cover. I took the plug out and the was sand in the top end. I disassembled the whole saw and took the engine apart and there was a lot of sand in the crank bearings. The piston and cylinder were in perfect condition. I took the rings off. Washed the crank with the piston in the parts washer and I washed the rest of the engine very good. Blew it off and put a lot of klotz R-50 in the crank bearings, rod bearings, pistons and cylinder. I put some yamabond 4 case sealant on the crank case. And assembled the engine. Cleaned the rest of the saw in the parts washer. And assembled the saw. Rebuilt the carb with an Oregon Walbro #D10-WA&T gasket set. Assembled the rest of the saw and mixed some new 91 non-oxygenated fuel. And some Klotz R-50. At 32:1. Put it in the saw and started the saw up and the damn thing runs better than new. Nice video.
Thanks for making this video. Without your tips for removing some of the more difficult parts on my MS-250 it would have much more difficult for me to replace the engine. I ended up forgetting to attach the impulse tube to the plastic fitting that ultimately goes to the carb so I had to tear most of it down and reassemble it again. The second time is 10X easier!
The 025 designation says it's an older saw. You may have an air leak, which will cause the problem you have. I have a saw of the same model and it is at least 20 years old. It may be time to replace the impulse line, fuel line, intake boot and maybe even the crank seals.
Thank you for the perfect video. I have my 021 almost completely apart and it turns out I did it the same as you. I hope me flywheel comes off that easy. I think I'll add a couple of silver bullets to the process and see if that gets it done. Thanks again. P
Good work. I have a 025 that I just spent 150 bucks on in parts. Probably should have bought a new one, but whatever. I noticed that you missed a large washer between the worm gear and the clutch . It is the size of the clutch. It might be on the floor , you might want to take a look. That was a good deal on the parts for that thing. You made that job look easy.
Massive thank you for making this video, I would of made so many mistakes without it, my saw is now back up and running, I did have to make adjustments to the carb after fitting the new engine but it’s now running spot on.
I loved your video Lenny!! You didn’t fool around, you gotter done. Two grunt torc setting and all. Entertaining and helpful!! Now you’ve got me craving a cold beer! Thank you for what you do.👍🇺🇸💯
Very informative. Not sure how much was consumed earlier, but the two Coors Lites convinced me to disassemble and go with only a new Meteor piston kit as my cylinder lining was in good shape.
Thanks to this video, I was able to easily swap an engine from my old MS170 (which no longer oils) into my MS180 (which had been dropped and engine damaged). Thank you!
@@dschamber7190 fair question. I had the 170 in at the shop prior, and they replaced the pump, tube, and actuator, and it still wouldn't oil. So I didn't trust that it would help it. Also the 180 was brand new when it was dropped, so other than the crushed engine it was in perfect shape.
I use Stihl Ultra with premium non ethanol gas in all of my two cycle stuff, whether Husqvarna or Stihl. I also carefully mix my gas, using a small graduated measuring glass, available from Walmart for about $2. I measure out 75 ml of oil, add .5 of an ounce of fuel stabilizer( Briggs AFT) and the same amount of Marvel Mystery Oil and then put in exactly one gallon of PNE gas. I also shake up my container of gas before each use to make sure the oil is still mixed throughly with the gas. Note: a bottle of oil only contains about 70 odd ml of two cycle oil. I use 75 ml of oil in each gallon of gas. Oil is cheap, engines are not.
The reason you got an extra impulse line fitting is because they often get broken off in shipment. I got one in broken off one time and I was able to heat up the old one in my Stihl cylinder and remove it and use it in my new cylinder. I coated the impulse line fitting with 1184. I also use Dirko HT to seal up saws, because I hate going back in when the seal gets broken by heat. Dirko is a little more costly than some sealants but it works a lot better than any other sealant I have used - 1184 or Permatex Motoseal.
Leonard, I have been using Amsoil for over 15 years mixed at 40/1 without an issue.Your voice sounds like Dan Aykroyd.I take it you are the designated drinker. Good video, Ken
Thanks Kenneth. It would probably serve me well to research 2 cycle oil a bit and I will. I do exaggerate my accent slightly but not much. Aykroyd could probably say the same. Mid-westerners is mid-westerners.Yes, designated drinking is totally my thing. Thanks for the comment buddy, I really do appreciate it.
If I ever have any doubts about my two cycle gas it gets poured into my parts washing container. I also use 84 ml of Stihl Ultra and one gallon of PNE gas or Stihl Moto Mix. The 921 I just finished rebuilding is running Moto Mix for its break in. Because it is about a 40:1 mix and my mix is about a 45:1 mix. Never skimp on two cycle oil. I buy it in the five gallon mix bottles and measure everything. I do not like rebuilding saws because I made a mistake.
I watched a video on this. The guy said it comes from people who don't let their saw warm up at all. They start it and gun it from the start. The reason is the piston when it heats up expandes faster than the cylinder does. So the piston ends up rubbing against the cylinder. Usually the part that heats up the fastest is right behind the muffler.
That carb looks like it is a little lean - no exhaust smoke when you accelerate it. My saws all put off some smoke when they are cold but it stops after they warm up. This is not how I tell if they are lean or not. I do that by ear and by using my inductive tachometer to see what they are turning. I set my saws at WFO to 12,600 to 12,800 rpms and to have a noticeable four cycle sound. This keeps them from getting toasted at high rpms. I richened up the high jet until I get both of these two critical conditions. Four cycle is a slight miss, due to being overly rich, at high rpms. This keeps the cylinder and piston cool and keeps them from getting toasted.
Wow $39 bucks for the replacement ket plus your time say $150 bucks in total. I have an exact saw with the exact problem. I own the saw but don't have all the tools you use. To do the exact thing that you have done the Stihl people here in NZ will sting me $500 NZ. I can do all that you have shown here with probably less tools but it would take me a little longer than you. I enjoyed your video, its the first time I've seen a saw completly striped down, thank you!
Sorry to bother again. I just put an updated air filter on my Stihl 025 and now I cannot get the plastic cover to go over it. However, I noticed, in your video that you have a lower profile air filter housing. Is there any way that you could provide me with the part number of your air filter / housing from this video? Thanks!
Bought a old 021 from the 90s..wel the clutch hub eat into the oil pump and case..did some jb weld and new oil pump ..good as new well worth the150$ I have in the saw
I just tore down my MS 250 Stihl Chain Saw to clean it up. Now when I release the acceleration trigger it does not stop, I have to put the switch in the off position to stop it. What might be the problem?
Hi, good video , but with one problem : you must absolutely oil cylinder and piston rings before assembly. You started with dry new motor and it's a possible damage for the rings. With such a "dry" motor the first pulling tries on the rope are very difficult, what is a bad indication...
Hey Lenny, Good evening. I just tore down my MS 250 Stihl Chain Saw to clean it up by following you video. Everything is working fine except now when I release the acceleration trigger it dose not stop of, it keeps running , I have to put it in the off position to stop it. What might be the problem?
It looked like the clamp was missing that holds the rubber intake boot to the cylinder...if this is the case, then maybe that is leaking vacuum and causing lean mixture which could be ruining pistons. Just a thought
A very good video. I took mine apart to really give it a cleaning but kind of messed -up with the brake handle assembly and I can't figure out how to replace the handle with its spring mechanism. Do you have any info with step-by-step instructions to do this? Thanks in advance!
Hi Lenny, I enjoyed your video! Your accent leads me to believe that you must be from the northern Midwest. I was born and raised in Norther Minnesota. Duluth actually! I'm mostly Swedish and Norwegian. Where are you from? You sound a lot like my dad. Keep making videos on dem der gadgets with a couple of beers to help get through the explanations and best to ya!!
Lenny, those HIPA cylinders have some scary 1 star reviews on Amazon. Did yours work out (now a couple of years later)? Can you recommend any slightly higher quality one?
Hi, enjoyed the video and all the information from here ‘across the pond’. One question, when viewing the cylinder though the exhaust outlet should you be able to see the piston rings? May post you a photo as they seem to be missing? My 025 starts but on very fast revs and will not run at idle..... happy Days ......... Thanks for the video, don’t think I will change from real ale though!
Thanks for the comment. I don't believe the thing would run at all if the piston ring was missing. It could just be hard to see. As for it not running at idle, possibly you could need some carb adjustment or cleaning. I'm no expert though. I only pretend to be one on RUclips. Perhaps the ale could be the problem too. I've always had good luck with the old tried and true silver bullets. Cheers mate. 🍻
Thanks. I appreciate the feedback. My setup came with the piston already in the cylinder however They're not that hard to get in there by hand. I was informed that I should have coated the cylinder with some oil before cranking it but I didn't and it's fine. Probably a smart idea but I don't do a lot of smart things so...
Thanks for the great video Lenny. My 025 went together with very few hiccups. I got everything back together in about 3 hours. Filled it with new gas mix, put in the new plug, and nothing. I could not pull the starter rope more than 6 inches. After about 5 minutes of trying, I pilled out the plug ansd it pulled free and easy. Any ideas on what might be going on?
Hi, simply because you did not oil the cylinder and piston rings before rebuilding. They were new and fully dry. Not good to start so . After X pulls mix came and oiled motor , but not good for the piston rings.
You really needed to oil EVERYTHING mechanical as you put these engines together....when whizzing your fly wheel, your also turning everything in the engine, Without oil...tut tut...a good vid apart from the bit i mention...
50:1 mixture is not enough, it’s too lean factory recommends that but they want you to buy a new machine and blame the consumer if it destroys the cylinder at least 3.5 to 4 oz per gallon is good on a chainsaw never had an issue with burning up a head and piston .
This 40 to 1 mix is not 100% safe on older machines. I like to see a little smoke from the exhaust. My 50 year old Pioneer P40 just loves a 20 or 16 to 1 mix. Never had any problems, maybe a dirty plug now and again, but the motor is ‘safe’ from destruction. You see, smoking is good after all, for saws anyway!
So I noticed when you put your chain cover on at the end there were still four bolts left in your metal Bowl. What do you suppose those were for? Was it just a sign of a good mechanic to have parts left over? Also, you didn't tell us how many grunts it took to tighten that muffler, was that a one grunter or two grunter? Loved your video though!
I used the aftermarket parts and I honestly couldn't tell the difference. I didn't do any scientific testing or anything but its a cast-aluminum part. As long as it's the right size, you really can't go wrong. It gets my home-gamer, weekend warrior, beer drinkin' seal of approval. Thanks.
the correct sealer for the clamshell base is either dirco or Moto-seal. and part the problem your having with motor blowing could be the inferior rings that come with those cheap Chinese knockoffs. the cylinder and piston are probably good enough but get either genuine stihl or caber rings and saw will last much longer
Lenny,many thanks for this-I'm ok with four stroke engines, and am contemplating a rebuild of an old Mac 10-10, which will be my first venture into two stroke. I found your video informative and helpful. One thing not mentioned-and here I'm probably showing my ignorance-was timing..............you didn't appear to have to do any timing set up after what was a complete rebuild.........is that always the case, or just this particular Stihl? Greetings from Ireland, btw.
Greetings From Indiana. Timing is not a big issue since there is no way to adjust it. The flywheel is fixed to the crankshaft with a keyway and such... You can't really mess up the timing. I have relatives who claim to be from Ireland btw.
Best to use ethanol free fuel. Caseys gas station has it in the mid-west or go to an airport and get 100 LL. Then mix 30 to one and run it rich on oil.
I was running this saw for about 2 hours at about a 30-50% duty cycle ruclips.net/user/postUgkxfQm1wmg0ItKDLavxj1nXtQY9HP7EF504 and it did a great job. I used the lever for the built in sharpener to clear chip buildup out more than to actually sharpen the chain. It managed to cut some hardwood stumps much larger than it's size without bothering the neighbors with hours of 2 stroke noise.
Thanks for this video.
Took my 025 to my local store for a service. They informed me that the piston was shot and that it would cost more than the saw was worth to fix.
They offered me £40 to buy the saw off me. Thankfully I refused.
A quick search on amazon got me to piston that you have here in the video.
Followed your vid to install (as well as adding a smidge of oil), and saw now runs better than it has in years.
Many thanks for taking the time to post this instructive video. It encouraged me to take my chain saw apart, order a piston and cylinder and successfully re-assemble it. I now gave that saw a new life after the local dealer had said it was too expensive to repair.
I've been told that twice by Stihl dealers. I believed one the first time about 30 years ago and bought a new Stihl.
This time, a dealer said the same thing. I just received a complete short-block rebuild kit, $58 from www.hlsproparts.com/
The dealers aren't exactly lying (though they are trying to sell saws). They get parts from the manufacturer $$$.
My grandfather had this saw and handed it down to my dad, and my dad ran this same saw for nearly 20 years on and off when I was a kid. Now that I'm adult getting into the field of tree care I started using his saw, and it has these same issues. Thanks for this tutorial, I can now keep my grandpa's saw running for hopefully another 20 years and hand it down to my grand kid.
Great video! Only suggestion I have is to take a table spoon of 2 stroke oil and put it in the cylinder case to prevent a dry start!
I normally use build oil or if not I coat the inside of the pot with a finger full of 2 stroke oil. A little smoke on start up but its lubricated. 👍👍👍
How to replace sparkplug wire on McCullough chan saw ?
Kenneth Pugh gotta pull through whole engine out my friend if it is a mini mac
@@steeo80 I agree. Also may as well get rid of the bad fuel right at the start.
Spins engine over at 1000 rpm with the impact wrench whilst it’s dry as a bone. Not one drop of oil added during assembly. Clear sign this bloke knows sweet FA about mechanics or engines.
He’s already caused irreversible damage assembling and running it dry. Not to mention revving the tits of it whilst engine is cold and hasn’t had a chance to wash any fuel/oil around all the surfaces. Class act.
With all that mechanical knowledge I’m surprised you would be watching a how to video.
He right never start a dry cylinder and rev the shit out of it no wonder 1st rebuild didn't last but one tree
I've watch two different videos of guys working on saws and just realized I'm out of beer! Guess I work on my saw tomorrow!
@steevesmallengimessalloon
Www g TCS
Great video. I followed your video step by step and managed to complete a piston assembly replacement in my old 025. Works like a charm now. So this gal is pretty happy she saved a bunch of repair money and has a great sense of accomplishment. Thanks to you Lenny!
Great video; thanks for the good information. Not many videos show all the process, views, and parts like you did. Great job.
I pull the intake boot through the rear handle with a piece of string. Just wrap a two foot piece of string around the end of the boot and feed the string through the hole in the rear handle. Pull the string while using your fingers to help the boot through the hole. This is the Stihl proscribed procedure, too.
Lenny, Klotz R-50 is also a very good two-stroke oil. We run it in all of our motocross bikes. I just bought an 025. For $80. It did not have an air filter on it when I bought it. It has very good compression. And it was missing the rear removable engine cover. I took the plug out and the was sand in the top end. I disassembled the whole saw and took the engine apart and there was a lot of sand in the crank bearings. The piston and cylinder were in perfect condition. I took the rings off. Washed the crank with the piston in the parts washer and I washed the rest of the engine very good. Blew it off and put a lot of klotz R-50 in the crank bearings, rod bearings, pistons and cylinder. I put some yamabond 4 case sealant on the crank case. And assembled the engine. Cleaned the rest of the saw in the parts washer. And assembled the saw. Rebuilt the carb with an Oregon Walbro #D10-WA&T gasket set. Assembled the rest of the saw and mixed some new 91 non-oxygenated fuel. And some Klotz R-50. At 32:1. Put it in the saw and started the saw up and the damn thing runs better than new. Nice video.
Thanks for making this video. Without your tips for removing some of the more difficult parts on my MS-250 it would have much more difficult for me to replace the engine. I ended up forgetting to attach the impulse tube to the plastic fitting that ultimately goes to the carb so I had to tear most of it down and reassemble it again. The second time is 10X easier!
The 025 designation says it's an older saw. You may have an air leak, which will cause the problem you have. I have a saw of the same model and it is at least 20 years old. It may be time to replace the impulse line, fuel line, intake boot and maybe even the crank seals.
Thanks for all the info. I rebuilt my 025 thanks to you. Fired right up. The saw was junk until the rebuilt.
lenny you're a legend! my grandpa's chainsaw lives to fight another day! Thanks mate!!
You, my friend, are the legend.
Aussie Aussie Aussie..
Thank you for the perfect video. I have my 021 almost completely apart and it turns out I did it the same as you. I hope me flywheel comes off that easy. I think I'll add a couple of silver bullets to the process and see if that gets it done. Thanks again. P
This guy is not only smart but entertaining! Love it and thank you
Great Video! NO BS waste of time stuff and great to the point "how to do it"
The beer drinking just added a personal touch!
As a kid we had an 026. Used cheap mix. Blew it up twice. I bought an 029 after I got out of college. Only use stihl mix and haven't had any problems.
I especially like your use of the proper technical terms for the parts and whifferdills in the assembly.
Good work. I have a 025 that I just spent 150 bucks on in parts. Probably should have bought a new one, but whatever. I noticed that you missed a large washer between the worm gear and the clutch . It is the size of the clutch. It might be on the floor , you might want to take a look. That was a good deal on the parts for that thing. You made that job look easy.
Massive thank you for making this video, I would of made so many mistakes without it, my saw is now back up and running, I did have to make adjustments to the carb after fitting the new engine but it’s now running spot on.
'That flywheel comes right off'
NOPE! 😂
One of the best vids I’ve seen yet straight to the point hellz yeah
I loved your video Lenny!! You didn’t fool around, you gotter done. Two grunt torc setting and all. Entertaining and helpful!! Now you’ve got me craving a cold beer! Thank you for what you do.👍🇺🇸💯
I agree, great video. and no time wasting junk. Big help. Thanks.
2:10 and 7:31 and 16:02 are tributes to all us beer lovers! Excellent video Lenny☺
Same here. Cheers Lenny!
Very informative. Not sure how much was consumed earlier, but the two Coors Lites convinced me to disassemble and go with only a new Meteor piston kit as my cylinder lining was in good shape.
Thanks to this video, I was able to easily swap an engine from my old MS170 (which no longer oils) into my MS180 (which had been dropped and engine damaged). Thank you!
Why didn't you just put the oil pump from your 180 into your 170?? Seems like a lot of work just to get an oil pump working :)
@@dschamber7190 fair question. I had the 170 in at the shop prior, and they replaced the pump, tube, and actuator, and it still wouldn't oil. So I didn't trust that it would help it. Also the 180 was brand new when it was dropped, so other than the crushed engine it was in perfect shape.
I use Stihl Ultra with premium non ethanol gas in all of my two cycle stuff, whether Husqvarna or Stihl. I also carefully mix my gas, using a small graduated measuring glass, available from Walmart for about $2. I measure out 75 ml of oil, add .5 of an ounce of fuel stabilizer( Briggs AFT) and the same amount of Marvel Mystery Oil and then put in exactly one gallon of PNE gas. I also shake up my container of gas before each use to make sure the oil is still mixed throughly with the gas. Note: a bottle of oil only contains about 70 odd ml of two cycle oil. I use 75 ml of oil in each gallon of gas. Oil is cheap, engines are not.
Most of the real world did away with Gallons decades ago....In some places 4L in others 4.546L
The reason you got an extra impulse line fitting is because they often get broken off in shipment. I got one in broken off one time and I was able to heat up the old one in my Stihl cylinder and remove it and use it in my new cylinder. I coated the impulse line fitting with 1184. I also use Dirko HT to seal up saws, because I hate going back in when the seal gets broken by heat. Dirko is a little more costly than some sealants but it works a lot better than any other sealant I have used - 1184 or Permatex Motoseal.
John Clarke Is the impulse line plumbed to the carb?
Good advice - Crank case leak may cause motor to suck air and run lean (partial seizing??)
great video the best I've seen no messing straight to the point
Leonard, I have been using Amsoil for over 15 years mixed at 40/1 without an issue.Your voice sounds like Dan Aykroyd.I take it you are the designated drinker. Good video, Ken
Thanks Kenneth. It would probably serve me well to research 2 cycle oil a bit and I will. I do exaggerate my accent slightly but not much. Aykroyd could probably say the same. Mid-westerners is mid-westerners.Yes, designated drinking is totally my thing. Thanks for the comment buddy, I really do appreciate it.
3 bond 1184, Permatex Motoseal, Yamabond, Hondabond, Dirko are sealants for use on crankcase seals.....good video
If I ever have any doubts about my two cycle gas it gets poured into my parts washing container. I also use 84 ml of Stihl Ultra and one gallon of PNE gas or Stihl Moto Mix. The 921 I just finished rebuilding is running Moto Mix for its break in. Because it is about a 40:1 mix and my mix is about a 45:1 mix. Never skimp on two cycle oil. I buy it in the five gallon mix bottles and measure everything. I do not like rebuilding saws because I made a mistake.
When Tony Clifton isn't roasting the audience and drunk. He repairs chainsaws. Love it.
I watched a video on this. The guy said it comes from people who don't let their saw warm up at all. They start it and gun it from the start.
The reason is the piston when it heats up expandes faster than the cylinder does. So the piston ends up rubbing against the cylinder. Usually the part that heats up the fastest is right behind the muffler.
Can you post links to the parts you bought online?
proper torque = two grunts....exactly!
Thank you Lenny ! Awesome job sir.
So wish people would vacuum pressure test before teardown to determine the cause
That carb looks like it is a little lean - no exhaust smoke when you accelerate it. My saws all put off some smoke when they are cold but it stops after they warm up. This is not how I tell if they are lean or not. I do that by ear and by using my inductive tachometer to see what they are turning. I set my saws at WFO to 12,600 to 12,800 rpms and to have a noticeable four cycle sound. This keeps them from getting toasted at high rpms. I richened up the high jet until I get both of these two critical conditions. Four cycle is a slight miss, due to being overly rich, at high rpms. This keeps the cylinder and piston cool and keeps them from getting toasted.
Good advise ~
Man you sound alot like Elwood Blues,lol. Thanks for the entertaining and educational video.
It's that mid-western twang
@@lennyc624 lol,I hear ya
That looks like you work on them every day, you made it look easy . Bout to do the same thing to mine but I bet it takes me longer than 40mins.
I don't work on them every day but I have had that one apart before.
I enjoy watching this vodeo. You are doing a very good job sir. Thank you.
I am gonna drink beer and watch again.. cheers
Wow $39 bucks for the replacement ket plus your time say $150 bucks in total.
I have an exact saw with the exact problem.
I own the saw but don't have all the tools you use.
To do the exact thing that you have done the Stihl people here in NZ will sting me $500 NZ.
I can do all that you have shown here with probably less tools but it would take me a little longer than you.
I enjoyed your video, its the first time I've seen a saw completly striped down, thank you!
Buy a new unit from farmertec, around $60 nz delivered
Thanks, that was a big help & easy to follow.
Always run 25:1 mix on my stihl equipment for yrs, never had problems. Always used cheapest 2 stroke oil I can buy.
Thanks for the information
Obviously that's not an OEM cylinder assembly. However, how is the saw working? Any issues?
You are good at what you do.
Very inspirational video. Good work 👍
This is the best video . it was a great help.
Awesome! Thanks Man
Great !!! Love to watch !!!
Sorry to bother again. I just put an updated air filter on my Stihl 025 and now I cannot get the plastic cover to go over it. However, I noticed, in your video that you have a lower profile air filter housing. Is there any way that you could provide me with the part number of your air filter / housing from this video? Thanks!
At 29:00 the "guard deleo" is the heat deflector (shutter); it has two positions, one for summer and one for winter. He has it in the summer position.
interesting. thanks for the info
Bought a old 021 from the 90s..wel the clutch hub eat into the oil pump and case..did some jb weld and new oil pump ..good as new well worth the150$ I have in the saw
That's gonna happen to this saw because he didn't put the cover washer in before the clutch.
I just tore down my MS 250 Stihl Chain Saw to clean it up. Now when I release the acceleration trigger it does not stop, I have to put the switch in the off position to stop it. What might be the problem?
Hi, good video , but with one problem : you must absolutely oil cylinder and piston rings before assembly. You started with dry new motor and it's a possible damage for the rings. With such a "dry" motor the first pulling tries on the rope are very difficult, what is a bad indication...
Hey Lenny, Good evening. I just tore down my MS 250 Stihl Chain Saw to clean it up by following you video. Everything is working fine except now when I release the acceleration trigger it dose not stop of, it keeps running , I have to put it in the off position to stop it. What might be the problem?
good job brooo
It looked like the clamp was missing that holds the rubber intake boot to the cylinder...if this is the case, then maybe that is leaking vacuum and causing lean mixture which could be ruining pistons. Just a thought
Please add the link for the source of the parts: cylinder, piston, and shaft. Thanks.
A very good video. I took mine apart to really give it a cleaning but kind of messed -up with the brake handle assembly and I can't figure out how to replace the handle with its spring mechanism. Do you have any info with step-by-step instructions to do this? Thanks in advance!
A great 2 beer job! Thanks
good job friend. congratulations from spain. Valencia
looks like you missed a big washer that says TOP that goes over top of the oil spring/spindle....before the clutch
Worth the time and cost of new parts ? What does a new one cost ?
Awesome video that is *very* informative, though I had to see Dan Akyord in The Great Outdoors thereafter and compare. Anyone with me?
Which replacement piston and cylinder do you recommend (other than the Stihl)?
Hi Lenny, I enjoyed your video! Your accent leads me to believe that you must be from the northern Midwest. I was born and raised in Norther Minnesota. Duluth actually! I'm mostly Swedish and Norwegian. Where are you from? You sound a lot like my dad. Keep making videos on dem der gadgets with a couple of beers to help get through the explanations and best to ya!!
Thanks. I'm from northwest indiana/Chicago area, born and raised. Your dad sounds like a cool dude. I appreciate the nice comments. Cheers
Has those Amazon parts worked well? I'm thinking to rebuild my Stihl and looking where to buy parts.
So far, so good. I don't use it a real lot, maybe one or two tree cut downs a year, still going strong though.
Lenny, those HIPA cylinders have some scary 1 star reviews on Amazon. Did yours work out (now a couple of years later)? Can you recommend any slightly higher quality one?
have you noticed a difference between an OEM cylinder/piston and the aftermarket?
Greay video!you helped me much!!
Thanks 👌😁
Great video
No. Thank YOU.
This is good stuff!
A lotta little things, dohicky , deals and dilliboppers,. I'll be using this video to get the thingsmajig reconnected to the other thing. Thanks!!
Hi, enjoyed the video and all the information from here ‘across the pond’. One question, when viewing the cylinder though the exhaust outlet should you be able to see the piston rings? May post you a photo as they seem to be missing? My 025 starts but on very fast revs and will not run at idle..... happy Days ......... Thanks for the video, don’t think I will change from real ale though!
Thanks for the comment. I don't believe the thing would run at all if the piston ring was missing. It could just be hard to see. As for it not running at idle, possibly you could need some carb adjustment or cleaning. I'm no expert though. I only pretend to be one on RUclips. Perhaps the ale could be the problem too. I've always had good luck with the old tried and true silver bullets. Cheers mate. 🍻
Thanks, great video!
Thanks dude
Awesome video! Is there anything you need to do on the new setup as far as compressing the piston rings before sliding into the cylinder?
Thanks. I appreciate the feedback. My setup came with the piston already in the cylinder however They're not that hard to get in there by hand. I was informed that I should have coated the cylinder with some oil before cranking it but I didn't and it's fine. Probably a smart idea but I don't do a lot of smart things so...
@@lennyc624 video was excellent. Thanks again!
Thanks for the great video Lenny. My 025 went together with very few hiccups. I got everything back together in about 3 hours. Filled it with new gas mix, put in the new plug, and nothing. I could not pull the starter rope more than 6 inches. After about 5 minutes of trying, I pilled out the plug ansd it pulled free and easy. Any ideas on what might be going on?
Hi, simply because you did not oil the cylinder and piston rings before rebuilding. They were new and fully dry. Not good to start so . After X pulls mix came and oiled motor , but not good for the piston rings.
You really needed to oil EVERYTHING mechanical as you put these engines together....when whizzing your fly wheel, your also turning everything in the engine, Without oil...tut tut...a good vid apart from the bit i mention...
Yep, I agree with what you’ve said. I was wincing with the dry start. A really good instructional video otherwise.
50:1 mixture is not enough, it’s too lean factory recommends that but they want you to buy a new machine and blame the consumer if it destroys the cylinder at least 3.5 to 4 oz per gallon is good on a chainsaw never had an issue with burning up a head and piston .
I’ve been fixing saws and mowers , strimmers and mixers etc for 40 years. Better to have a strong mix
This 40 to 1 mix is not 100% safe on older machines. I like to see a little smoke from the exhaust. My 50 year old Pioneer P40 just loves a 20 or 16 to 1 mix. Never had any problems, maybe a dirty plug now and again, but the motor is ‘safe’ from destruction. You see, smoking is good after all, for saws anyway!
fantastic
So I noticed when you put your chain cover on at the end there were still four bolts left in your metal Bowl. What do you suppose those were for? Was it just a sign of a good mechanic to have parts left over? Also, you didn't tell us how many grunts it took to tighten that muffler, was that a one grunter or two grunter? Loved your video though!
I believe those were the old bolts that held the old motor together. Muffler bolts are always 2-grunters. Thanks for the love. Cheers
Lenny, since OEM parts are no longer available for this saw do you think the aftermarket parts are the same quality? They certainly are alot cheaper.
I used the aftermarket parts and I honestly couldn't tell the difference. I didn't do any scientific testing or anything but its a cast-aluminum part. As long as it's the right size, you really can't go wrong. It gets my home-gamer, weekend warrior, beer drinkin' seal of approval. Thanks.
Think he may have taken and put a view saws together.
You need to pressure and vacuum test your crankshaft seals and block for air leaks, before and after tear down and reassembly...!
the correct sealer for the clamshell base is either dirco or Moto-seal. and part the problem your having with motor blowing could be the inferior rings that come with those cheap Chinese knockoffs. the cylinder and piston are probably good enough but get either genuine stihl or caber rings and saw will last much longer
Perfect video 📹 👌 👏 🙂
Lenny,many thanks for this-I'm ok with four stroke engines, and am contemplating a rebuild of an old Mac 10-10, which will be my first venture into two stroke. I found your video informative and helpful. One thing not mentioned-and here I'm probably showing my ignorance-was timing..............you didn't appear to have to do any timing set up after what was a complete rebuild.........is that always the case, or just this particular Stihl? Greetings from Ireland, btw.
Greetings From Indiana. Timing is not a big issue since there is no way to adjust it. The flywheel is fixed to the crankshaft with a keyway and such... You can't really mess up the timing. I have relatives who claim to be from Ireland btw.
@@lennyc624 many thanks for this.....re the relatives , us paddies are everywhere!!
Are you using the ethanol free fuel?
These models are crazy in a mechanical way, to undo the freakin cover youll need a lot done first
Hilarious and educational....thanks
I'm here to amuse you, like a clown.
@ 32:34............Did you just forget to reinstall the 4 bolts that secure the short block assembly??????????
New bolts came with the kit.
Good Show, I was wondering exactly where you tapped the flywheel to bounce it off.
just give the shaft a rap
Middle of the crankshaft There's a dimple for a 'puller' though if you're still waiting for an answer you shouldn't be using a chainsaw!
Best to use ethanol free fuel. Caseys gas station has it in the mid-west or go to an airport and get 100 LL. Then mix 30 to one and run it rich on oil.
www.pure-gas.org/