I built a proper 3D Printer Enclosure
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- Опубликовано: 12 июн 2024
- A while ago I made an enclosure for my 3D printer out of wood and acrylic glass. Now it's time to step up the game. Proper wood and glass doors to keep the temperature and noise inside. Using doors and hinges from IKEA und building the rest by myself.
0:00 Introduction
2:40 Cutting the wood
4:22 Off-topic: Remove white stains on prints
6:04 Why parts warp
7:33 Cutting the wood (for real now)
8:45 Box assembly
14:01 Installing power strips
16:43 Prep lights
23:35 Prep reflectors
26:10 Installing doors
29:30 Installing lights and reflectors
30:50 Installing thermometers
32:06 Cable hole covers
32:49 El finale
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My equipment:
- Main Camera: Panasonic GH5 amzn.to/2WUSb29
- Main Lens: Panasonic 12-35mm f2.8 amzn.to/2WUSfPr
- Lavalier: Røde Smartlav+ amzn.to/2WXGk3b
- Shotgun: Røde VideoMic Pro (1st Gen)
- Main Tripod: Rollei Traveller Carbon amzn.to/2Z5PNs2
- Small Lights: Neewer LED Panel amzn.to/2ArxkvH
- Big Light: Neewer SL60W amzn.to/2WxQIju
- Light Diffuser: Neewer Hexagonal Softbox amzn.to/2Lx7oRu
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Хобби
31:50 pro-tip : Dril form both sides. Then the cutout will be cleaner :)
Nice one, pinned!
For the issue with your IR sensor. on the running printer the ir sensor detects the permanent moving of your hotend. Thats why it is permanently on. on the other printer the plexiglass blocks the IR radiation that is coming from you so the light keeps off.
Great job! I just got into 3D printing a few months ago and want to build a proper enclosure. One idea---instead of using a motion sensor, you could use a 'normally open' switch that then closes to turn on the light when the door opens. That would be a simple mechanical solution.
Great to have you back! It feels like forever since your last vid - hope you're both keeping well :)
Thanks!
Yeah, it's really hard to find the time to make videos but I'm trying my best :) Let's hope that I can make more videos in future
Looks pretty rad with the Lights and the enclosures as well :)
Super neat! I will use this concept
Check out my latest video, there are a few improvements for the box!
0:46 - PLA is harder than ASA. I assume you meant toughness or heat resistance, but hardness is rarely the quality you want. Glass is one of the hardest things out there, but its also incredibly brittle and difficult to work with
Why not paint the interior and LED holders white? For better reflection for the provided light. Nice video by the way, I like the fact you included your mistakes, warts and all🙂
Black was most abundant when I started the project and I planned to spray paint it anyway ;)
But true, white would probably be the better choice
Genau das gleiche Projekt steht bei mir heute auch an 😂👍
33c isnt very warm. My chamber gets to 42-45c after 14hours and iv still had warping issues on huge ASA prints.
Welcome back bro
Thanks :)
Nice video! Great enclosure. I used PLA+ (plus) for my 3D printer build. Prints like PLA and is hard as ABS ;) Maybe a tip for your next build. But an enclosure is always usefull. Keep up the great content (oh and turn of your auto focus next time ;) ).
As far as I know, PLA is one of the harder plastics you can print with, more so than PLA + or abs. It's just a bit brittle and prone to fatigue.
I love that springy cat in the background. Any chance to have the stl, please?
Can't seem to find the original, but here is a similar one:
www.thingiverse.com/thing:3672981
Yeah ❤️
Can you please provide the link for the Ikea's window? Thanks in advance for your work and time.
It's from IKEA, the model is called "Värd" (60 x 60 variant)
www.ikea.com/de/de/p/vaerd-vitrinentuer-weiss-60347319/
I think the motion sensor also detects the movement of the 3d printer itself. Resulting in already lit Led's.
You are right ;)
But it does not happen all the time and if I reduce the sensitivity it happens almost never
Wouldn't it be better to take the PSU out of the printer & mount that outside the box? Otherwise the PSU is trying to cool itself in the warmth of the enclosed space. Obviously, not until the warranty has expired on the printer.
Yeah that would be better for the electronics, so not only the PSU but also the mainboard etc.
But that involves extending all the cables and is a lot more work than just replacing the parts once they break.
Infrared generally cannot pierce glass, they just look completely black/opaque even when using night vision.
wenn ich doch nur löten könnte. es wäre soviel praktischer mit Beleuchtung. Sehr schick geworden
Das wäre doch ein prima Projekt um rein zu kommen ;)
Eine Lötstation kriegst du schon für ca. 40€, hab auch so eine und die leistet seit Jahren gute Dienste. Lot hab ich aus'm Obi.
Braucht etwas Übung aber ist auf jeden Fall ein Skillset, das man immer im Leben gebrauchen kann 💪
@@normanwink Hab alles zuhause, aber das Talent fehlt 😋
Thanks for a great tutorial!
Do you have the files for the extension cable prints online?
Can upload them later but I'm not sure if they are going to fit to the cable extensions you have...
There you go: www.thingiverse.com/thing:4775737
@@normanwink die sind ja fast normiert. Ich bin mir sicher das ich die passende finde 😊
nice... but it is safe for the electronic still inside the enclosure? thanks
Heard heat build up would reduce life of electronics and power supply by 50%
Looks cool. I was too lazy to drive to a hardware store. Have limited space in a nyc apartment so power tools are limited to a drill and handheld rotary. I just got 4 black ikea lack tables a few days ago. Closed the sides and back with black foam/insulation foam/sound dampening foam sandwich. Stacked 2 on top of each other so it's actually 2, 34 inch enclosures. Not sure if it's a long term thing, the thing would probably explode if a kid punched it.
Yeah but it can't get any more cost effective than that ;)
How did you solve having a door?
@@normanwink acrylic with foam weather strips and I have the same foam sandwich I can stick on but didn't need to yet. The overall seal is surprisingly good for a budget enclosure made out of intangible things like "hope" that the things won't implode.
Aluminum foil and spray adhesive, or simply aluminum foil tape would have worked for those LED reflectors. Shiny paint is always hit or miss because 99% of it is surface prep and treatment, and when dealing with 3D printed parts that's a real struggle due to the layer lines.
6:01 Somebody's a smoker, fancy finger moves
That should be in a Zippo Ad
hy wie heißt die Ikeatür? finde sie nirgends.
Ich weiß es leider nicht genau... und das Video ist ja schon ein Weilchen her, weshalb die das eventuell aus dem Sortiment genommen haben könnten.
Das was ich auf der Seite von Ikea gefunden habe, was dem am nächsten kommt ist Sindvik.
Viel Spaß! :)
You mentioned that you're using soft wood, which means that you don't have to predrill most of the things you did. It's a waste of time to predrill all those holes, just predrill on one of the panels, you don't have to get all complicated and hold them upright to predrill through both of them.
bro amazon sells bags or LED bits and parts.
Does this box reduce the noise of the printer?
Yes it does!
But you gotta make sure that the vibrations of the printer do not transfer to the box, otherwise it's going to amplify the noise instead.
I recommend placing the printer on a concrete slab and having foam underneath the slab.
I'm disappointed you didn't use any wood glue. It would have literally taken 5 seconds and made the structure so much stronger.
True!
Thanks for the feedback
Cool cool cool - fellow hobbyist also in the middle of designing my own enclosure - just to let you know the movement sensors won't work if you bought the infrared ones as you put a glass between you and them so they won't detect any heat....
Yeah, fair enough :D
Why go through all that trouble if you are making a voron anyway? if you apply for PIF you get the parts perfect for it.
Props for knowing it's a Voron just by seeing the parts 😂
With the Voron project, the journey is a lot more important to me than the result ;)
what is the enclosure size?
Inner dimensions are
W x H x D
56cm x 56cm x 46cm
What makes this enclosure proper? It’s a fire hazard like all other enclosures I see on the web. No air circulation or filtration system. Wood is a very bad insulator, glass or acrylic is better. Should have used foil at least... the stepper motors should be preferably outside as well, as under stress(working at high speeds), those can get hot too. You can buy led connectors and holders for few $, no need for soldering or 48 hours of printing...