Great work on the enclosure. The one advice I have is to replace the binary temperature controller with a PID temperature controller. This change will remove fluctuation of temperature inside the enclosure. With a binary controller it'll turn things on and off if above or below a temperature setting, but a PID controller actually pulse the fan when the temperature is near your target temperature to maintain the target. Really neat stuff and only $20 more than a binary controller.
Looks good though I was a little confused as the title kind of suggested an active heater. I had to watch the video again before I realized it is passive heating from the printer and the fans are to help keep the temperature constant. You might have to run the fans when you print with PLA or print with the door open. PLA does not like it when you print with an enclosed printer. It causes nozzle clogging. I print mostly with PETG now because of that as I have an enclosure for my printer.
This deserves more recognition. I've been looking for good ideas from all the big channels, and here I found the perfect one! Thanks! I'll be making this but with a larger window!
*Wow, what an incredible build! 🌟 This 3D printer enclosure with temperature controls is such a game-changer. Your attention to detail and innovative ideas are truly inspiring. I'm seriously considering incorporating many of the same concepts into my own enclosure project for my Kobra 2 Max. It's going to be quite large, but with your video as a guide, I'm feeling confident about making it a reality. Thank you for sharing your expertise and inspiring creativity within the community! Keep up the fantastic work! 👏*
Wow This is awesome, Id like to build a similar one for my CR-10 Max, do you by chance have a wiring diagram for your power distro and fan setup available? just to make things a bit easier?
unfortunately I don't! however it's pretty easy most of the parts come with wiring diagrams themselves and you just fill in the blanks! any questions when it comes to it feel free to drop a comment under this!
Great video! Does the section below the enclosure (with the power supply and a surge protector) get very hot? From what I gather, when you put your printer into an enclosure you should be moving all electronics out of enclosure to prolong their lives.
Curious about the electronics. Have you thought to place the electronics of the printer in the bottom part? They would stay cooler. Also, what about a heater and a thermometer in the camber? Higher temps means less warping
I used Iko Enatherm to line mine and use 100% scrap including pallet wood. £19.99 for a sheet of Iko. Pulled electronics into lower chamber. Octoprint and £9.99 led string for inside. (Iko is fireproof)
@@ChainsawSquirrel Burn a stick of ABS and then compare it to PLA. You have the spool inside the cabinet. Now all you need is something to ignite it. Electrical potential isn't what starts fires. There are plenty of low voltage systems out there that can melt a wrench in your hand before you realize that you crossed over the supply to ground. Large prints would also increase your risk of fire. Consider either burn resistant materials and/or a fire suppression system.
Is the enclosure right in your workshop? Any issues with dust from table saw or other saws getting on the printer when opening door for prints or do you avoid that? Great job.
Sorry, but what are you controlling if there is no heater? Now it seems to me that it is more a temp read out/check. Or did i missed something? The enclosure is one of the best i have seen, but it's not that simple to make without the right gear.
Hello! I thought the enclosure you did was fantastic! But I was in doubt, for what purpose did you put these fans? For printing ABS, couldn't this be disastrous? Did you place something to perform internal heating or do you just use the printer's own heat source?
You're a really skilled craftsman! Any reason why you went with plywood vs some form of transparent poly since the cost would've been comparable, plus no sanding/painting?
Anytime poly panels are used you got to have a rigid structure containing it as poly panels have no structural strength. You'll end up having to buy plywood for the base, then build a frame for the poly panels, and you can't just buy a smaller piece of plywood and expect the price to be 1/4 of a 4x8 sheet, so everything adds up. It'll take longer to build, and even double wall poly panels are at least 2 times the price of plywood, probably a lot more.
How did this enclosure reduce the printer noise? I'm looking to significantly reduce the printer noise in my print area. I could also add noise dampener panels to the inside of the enclosure as well I guess. Subbed!
@@mattsdiy4595 😆 been so long ago I forgot I commented on this video. and in my world, those are upside down. it really is just a preference kind of thing. I still liked your build though. have a great day! 😊
isnt really temperature controlled if theres no cooling/heating agent, in summer, the fans would just suck warm air in, more just a air cirulation box, still banging dont get me wrong lol, need one for my printer lol
you are correct it isn't temp controlled in the sense of actually actively cooling but it does pull the hot air out of the enclosure made by the printer and pull some slightly cooler air in from the workshop which even in summer is cooler than the in side of the enclosure.
Amazing job, It literally felt like a step by step tutorial because of how detailed it was!
Great work on the enclosure. The one advice I have is to replace the binary temperature controller with a PID temperature controller. This change will remove fluctuation of temperature inside the enclosure. With a binary controller it'll turn things on and off if above or below a temperature setting, but a PID controller actually pulse the fan when the temperature is near your target temperature to maintain the target. Really neat stuff and only $20 more than a binary controller.
Thanks I will take a look into this !
Hello, what model of pid controller would you recommend? To get an idea of what it would be like, to connect one or two 12V fans. Thanks!
Looks good though I was a little confused as the title kind of suggested an active heater. I had to watch the video again before I realized it is passive heating from the printer and the fans are to help keep the temperature constant. You might have to run the fans when you print with PLA or print with the door open. PLA does not like it when you print with an enclosed printer. It causes nozzle clogging. I print mostly with PETG now because of that as I have an enclosure for my printer.
This deserves more recognition. I've been looking for good ideas from all the big channels, and here I found the perfect one! Thanks!
I'll be making this but with a larger window!
*Wow, what an incredible build! 🌟 This 3D printer enclosure with temperature controls is such a game-changer. Your attention to detail and innovative ideas are truly inspiring. I'm seriously considering incorporating many of the same concepts into my own enclosure project for my Kobra 2 Max. It's going to be quite large, but with your video as a guide, I'm feeling confident about making it a reality. Thank you for sharing your expertise and inspiring creativity within the community! Keep up the fantastic work! 👏*
Brilliant job, have you the dimensions of the enclosure / panels? As looking to build one for my smart pro as well.
Superb job mat, really well explained ! Like the hinge jig 👍 cheers Rob
Thanks Rob !
Wow This is awesome, Id like to build a similar one for my CR-10 Max, do you by chance have a wiring diagram for your power distro and fan setup available? just to make things a bit easier?
unfortunately I don't! however it's pretty easy most of the parts come with wiring diagrams themselves and you just fill in the blanks! any questions when it comes to it feel free to drop a comment under this!
Great video!
Does the section below the enclosure (with the power supply and a surge protector) get very hot? From what I gather, when you put your printer into an enclosure you should be moving all electronics out of enclosure to prolong their lives.
Great project. Looks good. Would you be so kind as to share the source of the front panel, switches and PSU. Many thanks.
Sorry it took so long ! I've placed the links in the description!
Curious about the electronics.
Have you thought to place the electronics of the printer in the bottom part? They would stay cooler. Also, what about a heater and a thermometer in the camber? Higher temps means less warping
I used Iko Enatherm to line mine and use 100% scrap including pallet wood. £19.99 for a sheet of Iko. Pulled electronics into lower chamber. Octoprint and £9.99 led string for inside. (Iko is fireproof)
sorted that bit out now can you send me the settings from f1 to f4 cheers
Hi Matt, looks incredible. I was about to build a box but concerned about fire proofing. Did you need fire rated plywood?
fire rated plywood ?? that would be overkill, chances of a fire with low voltage is slim
@@ChainsawSquirrel Burn a stick of ABS and then compare it to PLA. You have the spool inside the cabinet. Now all you need is something to ignite it. Electrical potential isn't what starts fires. There are plenty of low voltage systems out there that can melt a wrench in your hand before you realize that you crossed over the supply to ground. Large prints would also increase your risk of fire. Consider either burn resistant materials and/or a fire suppression system.
Really great job on the enclosure. Is there a concern for drafts affecting the print bed since the exhaust fan is close by?
I would hope the fan is just drawing air out very slowly?
This looks really good, how is ut holding up?
works really well I've printed full 3d printed cosplay suits on it !
Is the enclosure right in your workshop? Any issues with dust from table saw or other saws getting on the printer when opening door for prints or do you avoid that?
Great job.
No problems with dust really!! if I'm doing something really dusty I will cover up the filters in front of the fans!
how did you wire the fan
Any chance of some links to the electrical items you used please? Control panel, buttons and transformer?
Sorry it took so long ! The Links are now posted in the description!
@@mattsdiy4595 amazing. Thanks Matt!
How well does the plexi glass and silicone stick and seal last over an extended time period based on your experience?
based on my experience it hasn't failed yet!! I put some hot glue on the back to help hold in place !
Sorry, but what are you controlling if there is no heater? Now it seems to me that it is more a temp read out/check. Or did i missed something? The enclosure is one of the best i have seen, but it's not that simple to make without the right gear.
Hello! I thought the enclosure you did was fantastic! But I was in doubt, for what purpose did you put these fans? For printing ABS, couldn't this be disastrous? Did you place something to perform internal heating or do you just use the printer's own heat source?
hi ! thank you! I don't print in abs due to fumes !! the printers own heat will give good heat to enclosure!
You're a really skilled craftsman! Any reason why you went with plywood vs some form of transparent poly since the cost would've been comparable, plus no sanding/painting?
Anytime poly panels are used you got to have a rigid structure containing it as poly panels have no structural strength. You'll end up having to buy plywood for the base, then build a frame for the poly panels, and you can't just buy a smaller piece of plywood and expect the price to be 1/4 of a 4x8 sheet, so everything adds up. It'll take longer to build, and even double wall poly panels are at least 2 times the price of plywood, probably a lot more.
How did this enclosure reduce the printer noise? I'm looking to significantly reduce the printer noise in my print area. I could also add noise dampener panels to the inside of the enclosure as well I guess. Subbed!
the ply does a pretty good job of reducing sound ! you are right you could add some foam to further dampen noise!
1 exhaust and 1 intake fan. Would that change the temp when cold air comes in the enclosure causing the print to warp? Especially for ABS print?
I pretty much only print PLA so this isn't really am issue !! it rums about 30⁰c right now so a good temp
Thumbs up 👍 Well done🙂
overall, I like it. is it just me or did he put those buttons in upside down?
you must have been watching the video upside down mate!
@@mattsdiy4595 😆 been so long ago I forgot I commented on this video. and in my world, those are upside down. it really is just a preference kind of thing. I still liked your build though. have a great day! 😊
isnt really temperature controlled if theres no cooling/heating agent, in summer, the fans would just suck warm air in, more just a air cirulation box, still banging dont get me wrong lol, need one for my printer lol
you are correct it isn't temp controlled in the sense of actually actively cooling but it does pull the hot air out of the enclosure made by the printer and pull some slightly cooler air in from the workshop which even in summer is cooler than the in side of the enclosure.
What 3D printer is that?
It's the cr10s prov2 !
Got as much cash in the enclosure as the printer cost :) But nice work