Live interview with Gabe Oppenheim, The Ghost Perfumer, on Persolaise Love At First Scent ep 244
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- Опубликовано: 16 янв 2022
- #LoveAtFirstScent #Perfume #Persolaise #PerfumeReview #GhostPerfumer
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Episode 244 of Love At First Scent
This was a RUclips Live broadcast streamed on Monday 17th January 2022. Unscripted. Unedited. Unrehearsed.
In this episode, I interviewed Gabe Oppenheim, author The Ghost Perfumer, the book which explores the relationship between perfumer Pierre Bourdon and the brand Creed.
Thanks for watching.
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Persolaise is not affiliated in any way to any brands*, wholesalers, retailers or organisations involved with the fragrance industry. All reviews are entirely independent. Content is never 'sponsored' by any external agencies. Some reviews are based on samples provided by brands; others are based on samples obtained by the author. This has no bearing on the content of the reviews.
[* In November 2020, I was commissioned to complete a writing project by the brand Amouage. The project may or may not have a bearing on the scents released by the brand from 2021 onwards. At the time of writing this note, my intention is to continue mentioning and reviewing all Amouage scents released up to the end of 2020, except in posts/articles where perfumes from several brands are included and presented as part of a selection/collection (eg ‘best of’ posts and lists).]
Copyright 2022 Dariush Alavi and Parfums Persolaise. All rights reserved. 
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Gabe is such a knowledgeable writer, please bring him for more interviews! 😊
Let’s see what we can do.
You are a great interviewer, you ask the questions when necessary without cutting in and interupting and pushing your own agenda. Excellent interview 🎤🙋🏻
Very kind -- thank you.
@@Persolaise really great interview working my way through your channel 🍃
Some jaw dropping moments but hugely interesting.
Thanks for watching, Angela.
I’ve have been going through all your interviews the last few days now you’re on a break, and THIS was the juiciest one yet 😂😂😂 my goodness!
“Before Wasser was relieved of his duties at Guerlain” 😳💣
Rather a surprising moment.
@@Persolaise He seemed upset in your latest interview but I thought that's just the way he is...
I could listen to Gabe talk about perfume all day
Thanks for watching.
Please interview Pierre Bourdon i would really love to hear his detailed story behind classics like Kouros, Cool Water, etc etc… please make this happen before its too late, he is one of the last true Perfumiers out there.
I’ll see what I can do… but I’m afraid I won’t be holding my breath.
@@Persolaise any luck ?
Monsieur Persolaise! Fascinating intriguing Interview! (Yes with a capital I). The Guerlain gossip oooohlala indeed. Shall definitely be reading this book in the near future. Much thanks for the erudite & educated questions.
Many thanks to you for watching.
This is incredible, I have longed to find stories of fragrance from behind the scenes, I love to hear stories like armani code was supposed to be called armani black, gives more life to the fragrance these stories
I’m so pleased you enjoyed the interview.
I'm glad to hear that Joy Amin was the first youtuber that inspired Gabe to fall down the rabbit hole. One of the very best!
Thanks very much for watching.
This was the BEST EVER 👍🏻
Thank you so much.
What a great interview. I got my copy of the book a few days ago via Amazon which seems to have published it for the UK. Sorry but free shipping and no wait….I was quite mind-boggled to learn that Gabe is an expert on boxing too! Now if he wants to turn his attention to English football…
Oooh, that would be fascinating.
Thanks for watching.
Wow- thank you for such a thoughtful interview. It was such a pleasure to listen to the two of you - I didn’t want it to stop. Your questioning was sincere and the answers were honest and respectful. If only all interviewing was this easy and comfortable.
I am a newbie on this scene- so I’m still learning about past and present masters of scent. I fell in love with Dolce Vita when it first launched and have never been without it in my life. Now knowing a bit more about its creator, makes it even more meaningful than the memories I have attached to it. I just purchased the book and eagerly await to dive in.
Thank you again, and look forward to more from your channel!
Thanks very much for this kind comment. I’m pleased you enjoyed the video.
I can't think of Cool Water without thinking of its superior incarnation, Green Irish Tweed. My favorite Bourdon creation is Green Irish Tweed.
I have both the 1986 Lancome Sagamore, which beat out Bourdon's GIT-to-be formula for the brief, and YSL Jazz. Both outstanding fragrances, despite Sagamore having been forgotten.
Thanks very much indeed for watching.
Excellent interview. This is sooo what the industry needs. Openness and transparency. Glasnost and perestrojka. And the story about Thierry Wasser explains a lot. He made to mine opinion a few very bad ones. (Ideal Cool and Santal Royal to name a few). And the line and strategy of Guerlain is rather vague. Beatrice Piquet is on the move then? A great perfumer. I respect Thierry Wasser very much by the way. His Dali Homme is a masterpiece so is La Petite Robe Noir. Kudos to Gabe for lifting up that iron curtain of the fragrance industry a bit. We are all bees, are we not.....
Thanks for watching and taking the time to write.
Really fascinating interview - I really enjoyed it thank you so much to you Persolaise and of course to Gabe. I just purchased Gabe's book and cannot wait to sink my teeth in! I love many of Pierre's creations and it is such a shame to see how so many perfumers are not given the recognition they deserve. It does make me appreciate the Frederic Malle brand even more as it was to my knowledge the first brand to put the perfumers name to the forefront.
Yes, I believe Malle may have been the first.
Thanks for watching.
Amazing interview, as always, thank you 🙏 The book has arrived 3 days before the interview and I couldn’t put it down. Hopefully Gabe will continue writing about the perfume industry - the truth is more appealing than the myths.
Thanks very much indeed for watching.
Most engaging interview with interesting new perspective of the industry. Great way to start the year 🙌
Thanks for watching.
Such a great interview! 👏👏
Sad that I missed the live but so glad to have caught up this evening. I’m 3/4 of the way through the book and determined to finish it tonight while your interview is still fresh. ✨ (subscriber from Newfoundland, Canada)
Thank you so much, Lori.
Mr. @Persolaise I’ve only watched this now ‘cause I’m contemplating getting a copy of the book. I ❤❤❤ this interview - Gabe was so candid and the responses you’ve garnered from him were very insightful. I’ve watched other interviews of Gabe on his book and I can say that (consistently) you’ve done such delightful, absorbing and well executed interviews! Thank you.
That’s really kind. Thanks for watching.
I'm late here ... But what a wonderful interview ... Thank you so much!
That’s very kind, thank you.
Look forward to all your interviews P. Loved Gabes's many insights and this one especially. Bravo.
Thank you so much.
I love how Gabe goes on droppin bombs everywhere
Thanks for watching.
I've just finished reading the book. This was great reading, I must admit! Congratulations to Gabe for writing this exciting story. I'd love to read more about the perfumery from him and first and foremost I'd totally love to read the book written by Monsieur Bourdon himself. Please Gabe, you have to keep convincing him to do publish it! :)
Fingers crossed!
Thanks for watching.
Excellent interview, I think it's good for a budding perfumer to know how some companies can be exploitive and for customers that are concerned about ethics can decide what they want to support. I like that artists are getting more credit for their creations.
Good point.
Thanks very much for watching.
I thought Thierry W was spending most of his time with Guerlain looking for sources and materials.
I’m not sure. That’s possible, I guess.
@@Persolaise From TW's lips to my friend's ears. This was 2-3 years ago.
What a great interview. Thank you both. I learnt so much. I can't wait to get my hands on the book.
In fact, i would love some perfume book recommendations Daruish please. I'm going to also get the Michael Edwards book. Any other great recommendations would be truly appreciated. I'm trying to order your book but no luck finding it.
My book is out of print, I’m afraid. Sometimes, second hand copies pop up online. As for recommendations, please check this out: persolaise.com/shopping-guides
Thanks very much for watching.
Small world. My copy of Gabe's book arrived today.
Excellent, enjoy it.
As far as ambergris inbreeding fragrances, Aventus was different than most of the others. I was told that Creed used 5% real ambergris tincture for their "salty sea" accord. But Aventus was different in that Jean-Christoph Herault insisted that ambroxen be used in Aventus.
Fascinating -- thanks for sharing.
HI from Milan .. Just watching it now.. Interesting
Thanks.
Thoroughly enjoyed this episode, an excellent interviewee interviewed excellently. Well done and thank you.
Very kind, Joan.
Love habit rouge good choice
Habit Rouge is a classic.
A world of fragrance recommended this video of yours or rather shared the link to your interview in her last video about the book! Cannot wait to watch it as I know you are a great listener : attentive, incisive and fun! But it's worth viewing it on my laptop with this format of shared screens, so "we'll be right back" as they say on The Daily Podcast by the New York Times! Meanwhile... It is not for me but I wonder if Gabe's book has been translated to French, I couldn't find it? I found, after having persevered, a French podcast about perfume which I love, La Parfumerie Podcast, because they dive in the mechanisms of the industry and don't hold back on enlightening the listeners in order to "democratise" perfume. I don't think such a podcast would be able to exist in the UK because they don't hold back in the tone and the critics.... But you know we French people are supposedly rude! ;) In short, I think they would like it and I'd like to send them the link. They also have a Discord (like a chat) and I was happy to see you referenced as a reliable source of information for those who can understand English!
Thanks very much for this. And although my French isn’t great, I’ll try to seek out the podcast.
Great interview. Not too surprised by any of the reveals. The business is very shady at times, lol. Btw, I'll be subscribing to you. :)
Thanks very much - I appreciate it.
Thanks!
Thank you for watching.
Fantastic interview as always. Really loved this book club/interview format 😊 If nothing else, we need Gabe back on to spill more T 😅
Thanks very much indeed, Lia.
Brilliant, Persolaise.
Thanks very much for watching.
The story of Cool Water is the luckiest bad luck ever. I don't believe it would've had the same impact under a "major" brand. Well, we'll never know.
This is a fascinating question, and as you say, we'll never know the answer to it. Would Cool Water and all the other Bourdon creations have been as successful if they'd been released by other brands, with their very particular marketing campaigns?
I remember that there was always some talk about French Lover being a stronger, more longlasting version of JCE's Angéliques sous la Pluie, which never made much sense to me. Hearing now that French Lover was actually (mostly?) a JCE fragrance as well, leaves me even more confused.
Yes, that’s a curious detail, isn’t it.
Thanks for watching.
You have very interesting content ❤
Thank you 😊
So bizarre yet fantastic XD
Thanks for watching.
Wow wow wow 😮! The revelation of Wasser being “releaved of his duties” at Guerlain…… Mon Dieu 😳
I must say that Gabe’s account of M. Wasser’s call to him from Paris is in direct opposition to what we know of Thierry’s gentlemanly persona. Thierry has been very magnanimous in his acceptance of Delphine Jelk into the Guerlian’s senior nose position. To think that he would call Gabe only to call him back and tell him to call Jelk in so unprofessional a manner just doesn’t jive for me.
Thanks for taking the time to write.
Great interview!! Sounds like Bourdon is a bit of a genius who struggles to fit into the “real” world of business / industry, which can be cold / materialistic etc. still a genius
That’s certainly how he’s presented in this book.
Thanks for watching.
Also, next time please ask more about Kouros and the history behind creating it :)
I’ll do my best to remember.
awesome! as usual! Do you have a Patreon btw?
No, I don’t. Sorry.
Thank you for watching.
A&F Woods was amazing!!!
It certainly had lots of fans.
The most shocking thing said in the whole interview: JUST AMBROXAN. 56:30
Thanks for watching.
On the Guerlain subject, Delphine did not have a great start with the new Habit Rouge lol..
Thanks for watching.
The new Habit Rouge isn’t Jelk’s first scent for the brand.
@@Persolaise Oh yeah she has done a lot i see. Thanks for the vid.
I knew right away that Creed was a fake "historic" perfume brand from the moment I saw them use Prince Charles's royal crest for their logo. The royal house actually sent cease and desist letters to them. It also shows the French owners know little about England yet claims to have a long history in England. If they had a long history in England they would most likely been educated at top English Universities and be deeply ingrained in English society.
😉
Thanks for watching.
4 gallon jug of Cool Water😂
Thanks for watching.
Where is the line drawn? Impersonating a creator that has a name or who doesn't? Who decides who is the master perfumer, when there are dozens of unknown creators lending their ideas to the masters so they can polish and sign them for added sellability..?
Thanks very much for watching.
"Us Aventus people" - wow.
😊
The ‘Roja Dove isnt an actual perfumer’ was a bit out of nowhere.
A few paras are devoted to RD in the book.
Thanks for watching.
Roja directs but doesn't create, he's not a perfumer
IMHO: Thierry Wasser is a Great perfumer.
Delphine Jelk is not very talented.
Thanks for watching, Martina, and for sharing your view.
Unless you guys are lawyers in the relevant jurisdictions, probably shouldn’t opine on whether crimes have been committed
Great interview otherwise. I feel for Thierry Wasser, assuming what Gabe says is true.
Thanks for watching.
This was precisely the point I was trying to make. The book has caused many people to start making sweeping statements about ‘crimes’, but I wanted to point out that Oppenheim is not overtly accusing anyone of any illegalities.
@@Persolaise he may not be saying “this is a crime,” but my point is that doesn’t mean the conduct he describes is not a crime.