I didn't use resistors for 2000 Toyota Camry LE. The thing about Toyota is that if cut wiring. What affects one thing on a Toyota will affect other things on a Toyota. So what I did was I did some research to see what I could do. What I read and did worked. Instead of cutting wires and putting resistors in I changed the flasher in my 2000 Camry LE. This flasher worked with both standard and led bulbs. It worked. I wasn't sure that it would. So far it has still worked. I know probably you don't like Sylvania Zevo Super Bright LEDs but my whole 2000 Camry LE is almost all Sylvania Zevo Super Bright LED bulbs. So far I have been really happy with the Zevo Super Bright LED bulbs. I want to change my dashboard clutter lights, console shifter light, and glove box to led cool white. My dome light take a 6418 dome light bulb so I used the plain Sylvania 6418 led bulb it works fine. There are 3 leds in that bulb. For the headlights I use Oracle Lighting V Series bulbs 9005 and 9006. They have no fan for which I like. There not as bright but that's okay. Especially when I got pulled over by a State Trooper saying that my other led headlight bulbs were to bright. He gave me a warning. So I changed them out to the V Series headlight led bulbs. My goal is to customize the Camry. My interior take 194 and 74 bulbs there hard to find especially for dimming led bulbs. Forgive me for this being so long.
Explanation front-the-back. Higher resistance (LED) = less current. Lower resistance (filament) = more current. Resistors are fitted in PARALLEL, so the resistance is LOWERED, to mimic the filament.
I upgrade my "06 rav4 with led bulbs all the way around but instead of this I just bought a turn signal relay that's made for LED's and it fixed the hyperflash
Hello, great video, thank you! Question; I have a 2005 Corvette and a while back, I installed a sequential turn signal modules for the rear taillights (two round tail lights on either side). It worked great until I decided to replace the incandescent bulbs with LED's. Since then, the wretched hyper flash started which superseded the sequential turn signals. How do I get the hyper flash to stop along with keeping the sequential turn signals going? I did try installing a resister on the inner tail light (sequence of flashing light is from inner light to outer light) on both left and right sides but that did not fix it. Do I need to put the resisters on both tail light on the left and right sides or do I need to find where the hot turn signal wire splits off (one for inner and one for the outer sockets, and attach a single resister there? Thanks!
Adding a load resistor solves the problem of hyperflash, but if the LED bulb is damaged, can the vehicle still alert the driver? Nowadays, many places sell 12V 1157 LED light bulbs with a power of 21Watt + 5 Watt. There is no need to add a load resistor. It is a real plug and play. The latest models are also equipped with cooling fans, making them work more reliably.
You're absolutely right! Adding a load resistor stops hyperflash but might not alert you if a bulb fails. For a plug-and-play solution, check out options like the GTR Lighting Carbide 2.0 or Morimoto XB LED Bulbs. They work without resistors and have built-in cooling for reliability!
I didn't see in this video how to locate the ground. I easily found the powered flasher wire with a test light, then through trial and error, I thought I had found the ground. After wiring and mounting both sides I tested again, and all was good, normal speed flash. When I tried them with headlights on, though, I got nothing. Not fast, not normal, nothing but running lights. I've got a 1973 VW Bug. Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
2 questions. So if I replace my drivers side headlight bulb, reverse light and "all in one" taillight with LEDs, if I only install a load resistor to the rear all in one like I did, is it normal for the 2 (not reverse light) to hyperflash? Or would I have to connect a load resistor to wiring for each bulb? And second question may seem stupid but it's been 5 years since I've worked with resistors lol. Am I correct stating that RESISTORS, not CAPACITORS, are bidirectional, meaning if it works and I flip the 2 inputs, it'll work the exact same (doesn't matter which wire connects to what as long as they're connected to the correct wires?
You would need one resistor per turn signal bulb. It doesn't matter which way you install the resistor as long as it is connected to the turn signal wiring.
Isn’t it better to just get a heavy duty or led flasher relay and install it in one simple location. You would have to install this mess into every flashing light. A $12 relay is a much better option
I didn't use resistors for 2000 Toyota Camry LE. The thing about Toyota is that if cut wiring. What affects one thing on a Toyota will affect other things on a Toyota. So what I did was I did some research to see what I could do. What I read and did worked. Instead of cutting wires and putting resistors in I changed the flasher in my 2000 Camry LE. This flasher worked with both standard and led bulbs. It worked. I wasn't sure that it would. So far it has still worked. I know probably you don't like Sylvania Zevo Super Bright LEDs but my whole 2000 Camry LE is almost all Sylvania Zevo Super Bright LED bulbs. So far I have been really happy with the Zevo Super Bright LED bulbs. I want to change my dashboard clutter lights, console shifter light, and glove box to led cool white. My dome light take a 6418 dome light bulb so I used the plain Sylvania 6418 led bulb it works fine. There are 3 leds in that bulb. For the headlights I use Oracle Lighting V Series bulbs 9005 and 9006. They have no fan for which I like. There not as bright but that's okay. Especially when I got pulled over by a State Trooper saying that my other led headlight bulbs were to bright. He gave me a warning. So I changed them out to the V Series headlight led bulbs. My goal is to customize the Camry. My interior take 194 and 74 bulbs there hard to find especially for dimming led bulbs. Forgive me for this being so long.
Explanation front-the-back. Higher resistance (LED) = less current. Lower resistance (filament) = more current. Resistors are fitted in PARALLEL, so the resistance is LOWERED, to mimic the filament.
This video helped me on this day. Now to order switchbacks for the front and I'll be done with lighting modifications on this car.
I upgrade my "06 rav4 with led bulbs all the way around but instead of this I just bought a turn signal relay that's made for LED's and it fixed the hyperflash
Didn't know that was a thing. Good to know. Where did you get the relay from?
@@honeybadgerwrx advanced auto
Or buy the LED turn signal light with the resistors built in😊
so i need 2 resistors for the car
1 each side ??
Hello, great video, thank you!
Question; I have a 2005 Corvette and a while back, I installed a sequential turn signal modules for the rear taillights (two round tail lights on either side). It worked great until I decided to replace the incandescent bulbs with LED's. Since then, the wretched hyper flash started which superseded the sequential turn signals.
How do I get the hyper flash to stop along with keeping the sequential turn signals going? I did try installing a resister on the inner tail light (sequence of flashing light is from inner light to outer light) on both left and right sides but that did not fix it. Do I need to put the resisters on both tail light on the left and right sides or do I need to find where the hot turn signal wire splits off (one for inner and one for the outer sockets, and attach a single resister there? Thanks!
Adding a load resistor solves the problem of hyperflash, but if the LED bulb is damaged, can the vehicle still alert the driver?
Nowadays, many places sell 12V 1157 LED light bulbs with a power of 21Watt + 5 Watt. There is no need to add a load resistor. It is a real plug and play. The latest models are also equipped with cooling fans, making them work more reliably.
You're absolutely right! Adding a load resistor stops hyperflash but might not alert you if a bulb fails. For a plug-and-play solution, check out options like the GTR Lighting Carbide 2.0 or Morimoto XB LED Bulbs. They work without resistors and have built-in cooling for reliability!
@@HeadlightRevolution Thank you for your recommendation. I'll go see if I can get it in Canada.
Are the resistors constantly hot after installation or only get hot when using flashers ? Thanks
Resistors will only get hot when they're in use!
I didn't see in this video how to locate the ground. I easily found the powered flasher wire with a test light, then through trial and error, I thought I had found the ground. After wiring and mounting both sides I tested again, and all was good, normal speed flash. When I tried them with headlights on, though, I got nothing. Not fast, not normal, nothing but running lights. I've got a 1973 VW Bug. Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
Shoot us an email, we might be able to help! sales@headlightrevolution.com
How to know the resistor resistance that I need for my car?.Thanks in advance for your response
This is what we use: www.headlightrevolution.com/50w-6ohm-gold-resistor-ACC.RES.50W_2?quantity=1
2 questions. So if I replace my drivers side headlight bulb, reverse light and "all in one" taillight with LEDs, if I only install a load resistor to the rear all in one like I did, is it normal for the 2 (not reverse light) to hyperflash? Or would I have to connect a load resistor to wiring for each bulb? And second question may seem stupid but it's been 5 years since I've worked with resistors lol. Am I correct stating that RESISTORS, not CAPACITORS, are bidirectional, meaning if it works and I flip the 2 inputs, it'll work the exact same (doesn't matter which wire connects to what as long as they're connected to the correct wires?
You would need one resistor per turn signal bulb. It doesn't matter which way you install the resistor as long as it is connected to the turn signal wiring.
What the temp for the resistors mine gets hot..
Resistors will get VERY hot, and we do not recommend mounting them on plastic!
I replaced front headlights with led lights from HR. Right blinks ok, left won’t blink. I put old light back in, now it won’t blink. Any ideas?
Shoot us an email, let's troubleshoot! sales@headlightrevolution.com or 218-755-5200
Fuse prob
I beleive you could also just use the voltmeters continuity setting to just hear it turning off and on
why did you strip the wires? aren't those T-taps "self striping"??? dont they just cut through the wire sheathing?
To test but all he had to do was test at his connector....it was bugging me aswell..
Couldn't you just install a smaller 12v bulb instead of the resister?
If you vehicle hyperflashes with LEDs, it doesn't matter what size you install - they will still hyperflash.
There are relays to fix this issue or even smart relays to do other functions. This is cool but there's easier and better fixes.
Unless you have a relatively new car (mine's from 2009) that has it all built into the CEM (nothing user replaceable).
Where does wine find the smart relay?
Engineers are crazy, Im buying LED lights to last longer and use less energy. My car: NO, I WANT TO USE MORE ENERGY
Led flasher fixes it
Isn’t it better to just get a heavy duty or led flasher relay and install it in one simple location. You would have to install this mess into every flashing light. A $12 relay is a much better option
not all cars use a flasher relay, many are controlled by a module now