What's with all the complaining about grabbing the chain anchor? It's the end of the pitch, there is no stance. It's a hanging belay. Pretty sure that's the way everybody does it. And yes, I have climbed the route (5-1/2 hours with the Apron Strings/Cruel Shoes start and one 45 meter rope, maybe 27 years ago). Nice video, I totally understand falling there. It's pumpy for sure. Next pitch, even more strenuous. Some of the people commenting below are not people I would ever want to meet. They are embarrassingly rude and must be unhappy with their situation in life. My advice? Go to Squamish, find out how awesome this climb is (and many, many other lines), and if you're still a grumpy know-it-all, post your own video to show us how you think it should be done.
Clearly a *real* climber would just glue themselves to the wall to belay. *eyeroll* Thanks for the comment. That looks like a beautiful and super tough line. So many walls, so little time....
Daaamn bro, you must have been gripped out of your mind not even being able to hang on the anchor...and fuck the people talking crap about grabbing the chains...if you can reach'em after a heinous layback, fair game.
Nicholas Gregoire You are fortunate. When I watch the MOST extreme freestyle climbing, my feet feel like they being beaten by thick, bamboo sticks. I kid you not!
Well done man. The skill of placing that cam to hold that fall is equal to the ability to climb that pitch. That granite looks so slippery for the layback.
Ha, my first lead of the sword almost ended exactly like this. I got my whole arm through the chains but I was so drained from that last layback and the chains were so slick that I just barely managed to get my personal anchor onto the chains before my arm gave way. I think they're perma-oily because everyone ends up grabbing them with sweaty hands.
My memory of the belay was clicking into the bolts (no chains 40 years ago) and getting settled into my belay seat. Then I looked around. Oh my God! What a view. I had been so focused on climbing for the last 300 feet that I had no idea where I was. It was incredible. I still get shivers from the thought.
Well done!, Bellingham boi here, Squamish handed me many ass kickings in my day! That was one of them! The layback is pumpy AF! Lots of sends and greasy hands upon them walls of glory.
Damn dude, that put me right in the headspace I occupy when leading trad. There's nothing quite like the thrill of pumped out exhaustion with a background of mild terror!
People that just sport climb Don't understand what comes into play when you are trad climbing a multi pitch like that... you can't risk as much, ethics can go f*** themselves
@@Nuttyirishman85 it's funny, we were about to bring our film crew and stylists out and post some sick vids to the 'Gram but then we realized it was 2004.
The sword pitch is so slick from all the years of acents I am glad I got the Split Pillar pitch on my lead. Thanks for the vid. Been a few years since I have been on this climb.
My thinking - hmmm, he’s not far from the anchor… must not be too bad of a whipper. With each step up… my hands started sweating myself and seeing how far the set places trad anchor was… you got balls of steel and climb like a boss. Great job, and surprisingly smooth fall lol hope you’re having a great year (in 2022!)
Lived in Squamish many years, only ever took the trails. The last time descending I fell and started leaking all over the place. Cannot imagine climbing the faces, you that can and do are in incredible condition. Thank you for sharing this !
Holy cow, this brings back memories... I remember making a desperate lunge for those same chains at the top of the sword. Granted, Squamish 5.11 is pretty much equivalent to Index 5.9, but its still a scary and thin layback finger crack a long ways up.
Balls of steel... skill and courage man.....I can have all the chains in the hardware store and still won't be able to do what you guys do...kudos to you....
All set. I’ve climbed a few times and was scared the entire time. I totally enjoyed climbing up the “side” anchoring in and repelling, but for some reason, trying to climb the face made my knees knock every time.
The haters coming out hard in the comments section! I know the feeling of being to pumped to hang on to anything and knowing you're going for a ride!! Awesome work!!! Great video!!
Stood at the base of el Cap and watched tiny little colored specs climbing waaaay up on the wall. Anyone who climbs rock walls has my absolute respect. Watching this completely reaffirmed my lifelong rule to live by. If I get over 8 feet off the ground it will be only in something made by Boeing or Douglas Aircraft, period.
What is going on with the extra carabiner you have on the pro at 1:48? It looks like a double length sling over a horn left of the arete, which makes sense. Did you have both of them racked on the double-length, then decided to leave the extra when you looped the horn as a natural anchor? Thanks, just curious.
W Mashburn It is a 60 cm sling over a horn. Yes two biners on the sling when racked to double as a draw when needed, which usually just stay on the sling after being used on a horn unless a shortage of biners is anticipated.
Cool, you got to do it all over again. Mike Barter you're full of it. There was so a guidebook, a yellow covered paperback with sweet hand drawn topos. I don't remember chains but I do remember the two pitches of old fuzzy marine rope used to hand over hand it past the rivet ladder -- I imagined this as the cord that dangled the Sword of Damocles, ready to break at any moment.
Haha, you did the same thing I did. You put your camera on the top of your helmet instead of the side, so it bangs against the rocks when you climb too. Still I like that angle better then on the side.
Honestly I am not 100 percent certain. I think it was a pile of tat. I do recall launching for it and making the grab. Back then there was no guide book for the route somebody just pointed it out from the parking lot and away we went with half dozen stem cams.
Heheh, you must be French Canadian? 😂 Seriously, great rock and footage. I couldn’t lead this and if I could I would totally grab the chain! (I literally am 25% French Canadian)
OK that was weird. When the video first started I thought that was an almost horizontal ledge that you were traversing. Only when you started climbing did I realise it was actually a vertical crack. Haha :D
I love watching these rock climbers using their gear. They find a crack that is separating a 1000 ton slab of rock. And what do they do? Trust their lives in a little tool that essentially acts as a wedge between the two slabs!
Until the next cam catches him, and if those go he has the anchor and belayer and if he falls past them, then that is called a factor 2 fall and is really bad because if the anchor fails, both of you go.
Bret Shandro in the cases of skydivers surviving huge falls, the parachute opens enough to slow the fall. In this case the climber would die 100 %. It is a straight free fall of a couple hundred feet.
A woman survived a free fall from a disibtegrating passenger jet at 33000 feet, so yeah, you can survive falls that are considered 100 percent lethal. However, the chances are so slim that you still call it a 100 percent fatal fall.
How bout a explanation for the dummy over here. What happened when the climber grabbed the chain? What caused the fall? From behind the steering wheel of my big rig, everything looked great. :--(
he was climbing using layback technique...pushimg with feet and pulling with hands to keep from falling, but when he got to the top and grabbed the chain, his left hand was just too tired and he couldmt hold on any longer and he fell. but at least his safety pro was there and the rope caught him like its supposed to
Does that not scare the shit out of you when it first lets go? What happens when you fall and say hurt your arm, its not broken but hurts really bad, and your hanging up side down. What do you do? Do you have a phone? is someone on the ground watching and if so how would they know if your hurt seriously? Great video, but scary . You would never catch me up there, no way!.
Cool video. Those who partake in this sport must maintain there wits about them. I personally could not do it. My fear of falling would overtake me. :-)
@@g.e.b.8159 if it's in the Olympics it's a sport (and even if it isn't in the Olympics that doesn't mean it's not a sport) also have you never heard of football boxing mma hockey skiing or snowboarding all of which are sports and all of which can cause serious injuries or death
Weirdly, I can jump out of a plane but climbing definitely scares the sh.. out of me. And these anchors that you just slip into the rock, it's just voodoo lol. How is that possible that these things stay in place while saving your falling ass ? Nah, man. That's too much, for me 😂
Спорт
What's with all the complaining about grabbing the chain anchor? It's the end of the pitch, there is no stance. It's a hanging belay. Pretty sure that's the way everybody does it. And yes, I have climbed the route (5-1/2 hours with the Apron Strings/Cruel Shoes start and one 45 meter rope, maybe 27 years ago). Nice video, I totally understand falling there. It's pumpy for sure. Next pitch, even more strenuous.
Some of the people commenting below are not people I would ever want to meet. They are embarrassingly rude and must be unhappy with their situation in life. My advice? Go to Squamish, find out how awesome this climb is (and many, many other lines), and if you're still a grumpy know-it-all, post your own video to show us how you think it should be done.
@@Jonathan-wj6uh sounds like all you do in life is troll
Clearly a *real* climber would just glue themselves to the wall to belay. *eyeroll*
Thanks for the comment. That looks like a beautiful and super tough line. So many walls, so little time....
amen
@@bman6065 stop snowflakeing, snowflake
Peace!
Daaamn bro, you must have been gripped out of your mind not even being able to hang on the anchor...and fuck the people talking crap about grabbing the chains...if you can reach'em after a heinous layback, fair game.
I have an 8 foot ladder. Anything out of my reach with that stays just as it is.
ROFL dude
My feet were tingling while I was watching this. I don't see the appeal.
Nicholas Gregoire You are fortunate. When I watch the MOST extreme freestyle climbing, my feet feel like they being beaten by thick, bamboo sticks. I kid you not!
🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣👏✊
Well done man. The skill of placing that cam to hold that fall is equal to the ability to climb that pitch. That granite looks so slippery for the layback.
granite never slippery.....
@@TeamFortressTwoGaming you are. probably right....
ay dude its been 10 years how u been
Ha, my first lead of the sword almost ended exactly like this. I got my whole arm through the chains but I was so drained from that last layback and the chains were so slick that I just barely managed to get my personal anchor onto the chains before my arm gave way. I think they're perma-oily because everyone ends up grabbing them with sweaty hands.
Chains have to be oiled or they'll rust
Or just get a stainless steel chain...
My memory of the belay was clicking into the bolts (no chains 40 years ago) and getting settled into my belay seat. Then I looked around. Oh my God! What a view. I had been so focused on climbing for the last 300 feet that I had no idea where I was. It was incredible. I still get shivers from the thought.
Well done!, Bellingham boi here, Squamish handed me many ass kickings in my day! That was one of them! The layback is pumpy AF! Lots of sends and greasy hands upon them walls of glory.
Damn dude, that put me right in the headspace I occupy when leading trad. There's nothing quite like the thrill of pumped out exhaustion with a background of mild terror!
haha climb this pitch then comment on grabbing the chains
People that just sport climb Don't understand what comes into play when you are trad climbing a multi pitch like that... you can't risk as much, ethics can go f*** themselves
I thought you did great!
Chains are meant to be grabbed. And yes, I have done this pitch.
@@tallasianguy42 footy or it didn’t happen.
@@Nuttyirishman85 it's funny, we were about to bring our film crew and stylists out and post some sick vids to the 'Gram but then we realized it was 2004.
The sword pitch is so slick from all the years of acents I am glad I got the Split Pillar pitch on my lead. Thanks for the vid. Been a few years since I have been on this climb.
Awesome climb, good fall. Beautiful rock quality.Thanks
The fear in your breath adds a nice touch ;)
People talking smack in the comment section about your climbing while they're on their desk. Thanks for the vid!
At least I've climbed my desk successfully.
3 seconds in and my palms are pouring sweat. I know the sharp end of the rope all too well. Terrific route, thx for sharing. 👏👏👏
that pitch looks so sick, i hope i can make it out to squamish some day
Got to love them master cams
My thinking - hmmm, he’s not far from the anchor… must not be too bad of a whipper. With each step up… my hands started sweating myself and seeing how far the set places trad anchor was… you got balls of steel and climb like a boss. Great job, and surprisingly smooth fall lol hope you’re having a great year (in 2022!)
Lived in Squamish many years, only ever took the trails. The last time descending I fell and started leaking all over the place. Cannot imagine climbing the faces, you that can and do are in incredible condition. Thank you for sharing this !
Leaking? Shit?
@@seanieizcool Yes, shit, red shit all over the fucking place.
@@TheCanadianBubba oh you were bleeding. My bad lol.
Don't let the jam out
Holy cow, this brings back memories... I remember making a desperate lunge for those same chains at the top of the sword. Granted, Squamish 5.11 is pretty much equivalent to Index 5.9, but its still a scary and thin layback finger crack a long ways up.
Great video. Props for giving it full steam.
fuck dude this looks nuts. Props for filming in BC, some of the best spots in the world! the views are always incredible
1:44 That's what she said.
Heart stopping. Glad you're okay!
Did some beginner climbing with Boy Scouts this year. It was the hardest thing I've ever done. Anyone who climbs anything anyway is a stud in my book.
lol "i think someone oiled them", has to suck to fall holding the chains xD glad to see you were fine
did that pitch 25 years ago just relived the adventure
Balls of steel... skill and courage man.....I can have all the chains in the hardware store and still won't be able to do what you guys do...kudos to you....
Wow that Granit is beautiful!!
Man I wish I had the means to get out and do this! Looks like indoor is my only option lol nice climb Bret
i remember the epic battle with that corner. You did great.
All set. I’ve climbed a few times and was scared the entire time. I totally enjoyed climbing up the “side” anchoring in and repelling, but for some reason, trying to climb the face made my knees knock every time.
The haters coming out hard in the comments section! I know the feeling of being to pumped to hang on to anything and knowing you're going for a ride!! Awesome work!!! Great video!!
MAN! What happened when u grabbed the belay chain, were u just so pumped? or something else? Fantastic video felt like i was there!
I have some serious respect for rock climbers. You hands and callouses are comparable to the points on my ice tools! haha
wow.... the gear held. Epic gear placements :p :)
epic? perfect cams.
amazing! i’ve always admired climbers
The caption makes this so much better.
so you had to climb it again, but with an oiled hand? sick vid buddy, iv never had a pop at anythin that high, the view looked epic!
damn I drive by this all the time, need to get into this
Holy cow. So intense.
That was a nice catch!
Weeee! Let's see it in regular motion too!
snap man what went wrong? did your hand slipp off of the chain?
thats some beautiful granite
Stood at the base of el Cap and watched tiny little colored specs climbing waaaay up on the wall. Anyone who climbs rock walls has my absolute respect.
Watching this completely reaffirmed my lifelong rule to live by. If I get over 8 feet off the ground it will be only in something made by Boeing or Douglas Aircraft, period.
Nice send!
What is going on with the extra carabiner you have on the pro at 1:48? It looks like a double length sling over a horn left of the arete, which makes sense. Did you have both of them racked on the double-length, then decided to leave the extra when you looped the horn as a natural anchor? Thanks, just curious.
W Mashburn It is a 60 cm sling over a horn. Yes two biners on the sling when racked to double as a draw when needed, which usually just stay on the sling after being used on a horn unless a shortage of biners is anticipated.
Much respect. That shit is super hard.
damn, nice whipper. also nice sportivas
Cool, you got to do it all over again. Mike Barter you're full of it. There was so a guidebook, a yellow covered paperback with sweet hand drawn topos. I don't remember chains but I do remember the two pitches of old fuzzy marine rope used to hand over hand it past the rivet ladder -- I imagined this as the cord that dangled the Sword of Damocles, ready to break at any moment.
Hola
Bret Shandro, You are my hero xxx
Dude that layback looks heinous. If I'm forced to layback something, I'm definitely not having a good time 🤣
Is catching chains along the route so safe?
Mike, where there chains there 25 years ago?
Haha, you did the same thing I did. You put your camera on the top of your helmet instead of the side, so it bangs against the rocks when you climb too. Still I like that angle better then on the side.
thats rad, in contrast we read every comment on MP and sewed the climb up with flexible cams... and at the end of the day feel adventurous
Wow. Thats so exposed. Good placing of the Friends
Thats the exact moment where i think I would have shat my pants.
wow cool video. i´m new into clean climbing and i couldnt believe that a small cam like that could take a fall of this size :)
It's not that small
good cam placements.
gloves for a finger crack?
Nice video man. So close eh!
Honestly I am not 100 percent certain. I think it was a pile of tat. I do recall launching for it and making the grab. Back then there was no guide book for the route somebody just pointed it out from the parking lot and away we went with half dozen stem cams.
Dam looks hard.
ya i drove by there a few times
where is this looks like a awaome bit of rock
I think i shit myself watching this
damn chain oilers
+Henry L
What is a chain oiler?
People that put oil on the chain so the cord doesn-t get burnt
That Was scary.. I thought you made it... and then wow
Nice video
Heheh, you must be French Canadian? 😂
Seriously, great rock and footage. I couldn’t lead this and if I could I would totally grab the chain! (I literally am 25% French Canadian)
OK that was weird. When the video first started I thought that was an almost horizontal ledge that you were traversing. Only when you started climbing did I realise it was actually a vertical crack. Haha :D
Amazing but scary
how do u get down
Gee I think I put in some of the piton on scars on that one back in 84
Thanks God you safe.
I love watching these rock climbers using their gear. They find a crack that is separating a 1000 ton slab of rock. And what do they do? Trust their lives in a little tool that essentially acts as a wedge between the two slabs!
Not one but 8!
lay backing freaking burns! What a struggle!
falling with grace.
wish it wasnt slow mode
well DemolitionPaintball you are in luck...
go to 27:00 in this --> Climbing the Grand Wall (5.11a) in Squamish, BC (GoPro helmet cam)
28:00
@@dancer1 Yet still ruined it with captions.
@@dreads9536 yeah like wtf he doesn’t know how to make a vid
Props on the gear placement. That was a big fall.
so im new to climbing, if that cam didnt hold or blew a chunk of the wall out, would he have fallen to his death?
That would be a questions for google
+owen panick Not if he has Other pieces underneath it which I believe he does.
Until the next cam catches him, and if those go he has the anchor and belayer and if he falls past them, then that is called a factor 2 fall and is really bad because if the anchor fails, both of you go.
The slow motion protected my from shitting my pants :)
Pumpy stuff!
Rock climbing fall climbing in Cape Town 6c+
Wonder how often climbers wish they were safely on the ground....terrifying
My hands are all sweaty now thanks -_-
He believes that wall doesn't peel off at all? Or he may think "It's also my fate."...
Wow... somebody MUST have oiled those things
Kept thinking this was a "ground fall" which is unsurvivable at that height...
There are survivals of skydiving accidents when the parachutes doesn't open... I would say that it is highly unlikely instead of unsurvivable.
Bret Shandro Ah yes very true, pardon my choice of words.
Bret Shandro in the cases of skydivers surviving huge falls, the parachute opens enough to slow the fall. In this case the climber would die 100 %. It is a straight free fall of a couple hundred feet.
A woman survived a free fall from a disibtegrating passenger jet at 33000 feet, so yeah, you can survive falls that are considered 100 percent lethal. However, the chances are so slim that you still call it a 100 percent fatal fall.
How bout a explanation for the dummy over here. What happened when the climber grabbed the chain? What caused the fall? From behind the steering wheel of my big rig, everything looked great. :--(
old school hawking chain was greasy
he was climbing using layback technique...pushimg with feet and pulling with hands to keep from falling, but when he got to the top and grabbed the chain, his left hand was just too tired and he couldmt hold on any longer and he fell. but at least his safety pro was there and the rope caught him like its supposed to
Essentially his feet slipped and the one arm on the chains wasn't strong enough to hold him.
Some climbs aren’t made to top out and walk off, I too have hung on the last bolt, no big deal, it’s like ringing the bell at the gym. Lol
Does that not scare the shit out of you when it first lets go? What happens when you fall and say hurt your arm, its not broken but hurts really bad, and your hanging up side down. What do you do? Do you have a phone? is someone on the ground watching and if so how would they know if your hurt seriously? Great video, but scary . You would never catch me up there, no way!.
Nice
Chain oilers are out to get chain grabbers, beware!
It's all about endurance because his breathing so hard
Cool video. Those who partake in this sport must maintain there wits about them. I personally could not do it. My fear of falling would overtake me. :-)
It's not a sport. A real sport won't put your life in jeopardy.
@@g.e.b.8159 Football isn't a sport then cause one wrong fall and your braindead
@@g.e.b.8159 if it's in the Olympics it's a sport (and even if it isn't in the Olympics that doesn't mean it's not a sport) also have you never heard of football boxing mma hockey skiing or snowboarding all of which are sports and all of which can cause serious injuries or death
@@g.e.b.8159 ever heard of extreme sports? There’s a shit ton of them at this point. Google it.
Weirdly, I can jump out of a plane but climbing definitely scares the sh.. out of me. And these anchors that you just slip into the rock, it's just voodoo lol. How is that possible that these things stay in place while saving your falling ass ? Nah, man. That's too much, for me 😂
OMG that was scary.
Bro… That was close!
You were definitely going for it!
Bomber placements