How are the holds on a 9c? - The Climbing Diaries #16
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- Опубликовано: 29 сен 2024
- All the holds of Bibliographie, the second 9c of the world climbed by Alex Megos last year that I'm currently projecting... have a closer look of some of the "best" holds of the world!
"Don't watch if you're trying to onsight" 🤣🤯😕
I love it
Enrico's foot should be part of the route tbh
Agree
This is so well done, a great insight into what makes the climb so hard. I think another thing which isn’t directly mentioned is just how overhanging it is, this can be seen by the angle the quickdraws are hanging at lower down and it looks like this includes the first boulder problem too- Stefano is a beast!
Congrats !
I'm lucky enough to live 25 minutes from Céüze in car, but I never dared to get close from Bibliographie. Thank you for showing me such a beautiful climb from so close. It's truly mesmerising.
The Filming and Editing are just Perfect on this one. The World needs more Videos like this one! I don't care about a 90 sec super fast-paced edit when I can have a 10 min (or even longer) Video with Commentary like this
fantastic work, the recording, edition, music, narration... everything high quality, next level for the climbing community
2:10 "8b+ not super hard". And here I am hoping to send my 6a+ project on Sunday, lulz. Thank fuck I'm stubborn or things like these might demoralize me.
Man, be humble. He is the one of the greates climbers these years. Anyway to send 6a+ usually People need mental firstly. Good luck.
Good luck man. Allez.
Even for 7c+ climber, 8b+ seems unachievable...
Great climbing and editing, loving the series
such good videos, you (obviously) understand what climbers want to watch and are interested in, keep it up!
"spoiler alert, dont watch this video, if you want to try it on sight".
feels like next level trolling to me xD
Wow. I could feel his pain getting to the second rest.
truly impressed
should have grabbed Enrico's foot 😂 You're are so strong Stefano! This video was wierdly calming . . .
Awesome video! Super fan
Woah. I was really surprised how good the holds look in the beginning. But damn, they become worse and worse after that.
great vid
Now I want a vid about the footholds
This guy is a dark horse 🐎
Makes 12d look like simple times🤯
Brilliant! I really enjoyed this and got a better idea of the heinous punishment your fingers take… do the same with the feet sometime
Title should be: "how bad and painful are holds on a 9C"
I wanna see megos and ondra try each other's 9Cs. I know they probably won't because they have some beef, and ondra is notoriously weak at pockets, but it would be interesting to see them try. Also to get confirmation if 9C grade.
What beef is between Alex and Adam? Just curious, never heard of this...
Thanks for the spoiler alert😀
Va bè dai, lo provo da secondo
io vado dopo di te così lo provo da terzo
Congrats stefano. You were able to climb 9C in a very short period of time
Slopy pinch? was that even a hold? OMG !
Amazing!!!! 😜😜😜
Your rests are my cruxes
Thanks for ruining my onsight!
Did you mean "how are the holds on a 9b?"?
“this part is 8b+, so not super hard” 😅 bro
I thought bibliographie was a 9a+ ?
Are we talking of the Céüse route ?
Ok after checking I realised that the famous 9a+ is "Biographie" while the video route is "Bibliographie" and it is indeed a 9c...
Thank you so much for showing us this route so precisely!
And in the end, do you consider this route difficult enough to be a 9c like Alex Megos says ?
@@clementrodriguez147 Stefano found different beta to do the hardest part of the route. Which made it a bit easier than how Alex did it. Stefano decided to downgrade it. And bibliography is now a 9b+
How are the holds on 9C? For Stefano, apparently too easy....
Shooowww°°°
Edit * How are the holds on a 9b+? - The Climbing Diaries #16
I can't believe I blew my onsight attempt by watching this video! I'll have to onsight Silence instead I guess.
good he warned at the beginning......with a serious voice
same here.. I'd rather choose Perfecto Mundo haha
Damn, I’m Stuck on the second Boulder good to see the beta
“The last move, to this….jug” 🤣. It’s all relative I guess.
This series is so awesome. Love the more technical, in depth videos. Keep it up stefano
"It is important to arrive at the rest with no pump at all." Dude, I got pumped just watching haha
Also its 5.14a up till there, no pump on 5.14a, ok got it.
“Pretty easy, 8b+” that’s insane
Scrolled into the comments to say that.
oh no.. i didn´t watched it with sound, so i missed the spoiler alert... now i will never be able to onsight this route.... (Me climbing max. 6c)
I feel you, I will never be able to Watch it on sight again :)
I was going to dream tonight that I onsighted it, but now that is ruined 🤣
6c is pretty good! Lmao
This is incredible, such a gift to the community. Really appreciate the work you're doing and best of luck with the route! 💪
Most relaxing climbing video on the internet? Need Stefano to narrate my climbing sessions!
I completely agree!
"After I use my favorite hold, a slopey pinch, I have my favorite snack, a bottle of arsenic." What a legend!
That favorite hold looked so awful when he grabbed it
I'm pretty sure the last 8m jugs are probably around 7b/c still ^^
Instant classic video, as always! You got me with your spoiler alert 😂
Astonishing - particularly when you look at the quickdraws and realize it's almost all overhanging. And I love that second 'rest,' which 99% of climbers couldn't even hold on to. Badass.
That shocked the shit out of me. THAT'S the rest hold?
aas opposed to goodass? or bad head? No matter what you want to insert in comments? and where?
@@HoratioHoodoo what timestamp?
@HoratioHoodoo what timestamp?
@@h.7537 6:19
"from this good hold, the second crux starts"
Mate that whole climb is just one long crux
cool i liked the one u did for 9b+! i think you are doing an amazing job by showing this kind of details on your projects! thanks
Good spoiler alert. Also, we need to set expectations for "good holds": the holds of an 8B+. Thanks for the video, it's super inspiering!
Preparing for HCO, huh? :)
@@RockClimberAlex yes, trying to get rid of "bad holds" and "no resting" excuses. If the holds of an 8B+ are good, then i need to change my standards.
@@zandrei88 Venga! Si succes!
@@RockClimberAlex o9oo9ooo99o9o99o99999o9999oo99o9oo999oo9999o9o9o9oo99999ooooo99o9o9999o999o9o999oo9o99ooo999oo999o99999999o9999o999o9o999o99oo99o9oo999ooooo9o999oo99o9o9o9999ooo99ooooo999oo99oooooo99ooo9oo9oooo9ooo9oo9o9ooooo9oo9o9ooooo99oo999o9oooooooo99oooooooooooo999oo9oo9oo999o9999999o99oo99ooo9o9999oo9999ooo99ooooo9oooooooooo9999oo9oo99ooo99o99o9oo9ooo999oo9ooo99o99o9oo9ooo999o999o9oo999oo9oo9oooooooo99o99oooooooo9oooo9o99ooooo9oo9oooooooooooo99o99o9oo999oo9ooooo9ooooo99o99oooooooooooo9oooooooooooooooooooo99999oo9oooo99oooooo99oo9oooooooooooooooooooo9ooo9o9o99oooo9ooo99oooooooooooo9o9oo9ooo9oo99o999oo9o9oooooo9999o9999999ooooooooo999o9o9999ooo9oooooooooo9oo9oooo999oooooo9ooooo9ooooooooo9oooo99o9oooo9o99oo9o9o9o9ooo9o9ooooo99oooooooooooo9o9ooo99oooooooo999ooooooooooooooooooooo9999ooooooooooooooooooooo9oo9ooooooooo99oooooooooo9oooooooooooooooooooooo999oooo99oooooooo99oooooooooooo9oooo9o9o9oo99oooooooooo9oo9ooooo9ooooooo99ooooo9oooooo9oooooo9ooo9oo9ooooooooooo9oooooooo9ooooooooo9ooo9oooooooo9oooooo999o99oo9ooooo9oooooooooooooooooooooooooooo9oooooo9ooooooo9ooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooo9oo9oooo9oooooooooooooo9oooooooooooooooooo9ooooooooo9ooo9oooooooo9oo9oo9oooooooooooo9oo9oooooooooooo9oo9o99o9oooooooo9o9ooo9oooo9oooooo9o9o9ooo9ooo9ooooooooooo99o99oooo9ooo9ooo99o99o9oooooo9oooooooooooo9o9ooo999oo9oo99o9ooooo9ooooooooooo999oo9ooooooo9ooo9ooooo9o9oooooooooooooooooooooooooooooo9oooooooooooooooo99oo9ooo99oo9oooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooo99o9oooooooooooooooo9ooooooo9oooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooo9ooo9ooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooo99oo9ooooo9oo9ooo9oooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooo9oo9oo9ooooooo9oooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooo99ooooooooooooooooooooo9oooooooooooo99ooooooooooooooooooooooooooo99o9ooooooo9ooo9o9oooooo9ooooooooooooo9oooooo9oooooo9ooo99ooooooooooooo9ooooooooooooooooooooooooooooo9o
@@RockClimberAlex ooo9ooooooooooooooo9ooooooo99oooooooooooooooo9ooooooo
A hold on a 9c is called a nohold
And Alex Honnold
@@joanpariente7815 Do you mean Apex Handhold, the greatest athlete of all time?
It’s a negative hold
nanohold
"To this" *cough* "Jug" made me laugh hard
This is an instant classic. Never felt like being so close to such a route.
Please zoom in more I want to try to flash it
These vids are great! Nice one Stef and team.
The man has done it! Incredible job ste💪
Well, it seems they were "Good Enough", congrats Stefano!
/s Every hold is a jug if you're strong enough
Or have teeny tiny fingers
Wait you ended your sarcasm before your sentence...
@@paulelderson934 omae wa
You look so solid on every move. Hard to grasp that it's 9c
The hardest sequence is “only” V12. The crux is linking everything together
No, not really. You can tell that it’s hard. Some boulder problems look deceptively easy on camera and then you look at them in real life and suddenly realize how overhanging they truly are, how bad the holds are and how impossible the foot positions are.
@@Mike-oz4cv both Alex and Stefano said it’s V12/8A+, which is relatively easy for them to do if the route wasn’t so long/hard to link
"good holds".... said one of the three best climber in the world in the second 9c in the world
one of 4-5 best, don't count out Seb and Jakob!
@@chrissmithdoe2100 Also Will Bosi
Not a 9c anymore
Thanks so much for this video Stephano!! I feel so spoiled to get a close look at your project, thanks for being so inclusive of us on your journey to sending it, good luck!
Fascinating to see the holds up close but also interesting when you spy the footholds. The precision footwork required for this is amazing
Well, for some reason you manage to make it look rather easy! Most of us would probably already struggle with climbing just the 8m runout at the end XD
Brilliant - truly brings home the difficulty of the hardest routes. I think I tore several calluses just watching. Magnifico.
Damn i should not have watched this. There goes my onsight. Am not going to bother to just flash it. I guess i will stay at home instead.
He sent It folks!
“Don’t watch this video if you want to on sight”. I love that you think there are more than a handful of people in the world that could on sight this. 🤣. Who knows, maybe 9c will be the new 7c 🤣🤣🤣
Well, there was a time when people thought 5.9 was the hardest humanly possible grade. So who knows, honestly?
A handful of people? The hardest flash ever done (note that that wasn't even onsight) is a 9a+. The hardest onsights were 9a's. So, there is nobody in the worlds who can onsight a 9c. But indeed, the next climbing prodigy might be watching this video...
@@driesvanoosten4417 just you wait, I’m gonna hit a 10a next summer.
When the 'rest' is a hold I don't think I could use on a slab, let alone 20-30 degree overhang...
Helps put the difficulty in context, as someone who can climb ~7a
I would love to see this kind of breakdown for Silence. Awesome video
6:20 "and this is the second rest of the route"
ok... if you say so...
So much respect! That video was super intense...I could see how hard that first Boulder was, great capturing of the pure difficulty! Well done Stefano and team!!! 👏👏👏🔥🤘
7:55 this sequence of 8 moves looks so impossible to me! Absolutely awesome how one can hold this after the incredibly exhausting way up
oh, no!, I watched the video and now I can't onsight bibliographie.
This was like watching a meditation video. I forgot how soothing Stefano's voice is on these indepth videos. Like the projecting change sub-series.
I also like listening to the fact that he's talking about being pumped always helps me understand a bit more about higher grades and pros. He doesn't looked stressed or pumped.
Is the video good? I can't watch it due to my impending on-sight attempt.
when it's possible by the next generation to flash 9c (in 2030?), this will be so useful for attempts....
I tried the start of this route when I was in Ceüse for a month. I couldn’t even get off the ground on the first holds….
Congrats for the 9b+
Why do you call some sections 'boulder problems' and some just 'a series of hard moves'? Surely then everything is one or the other, so what makes them different?
I guess a serie of hard moves are hard, but straightforward, so you "just" need enough strength to go past. A boulder problem requires more work as the moves are not obvious and a precise sequence must be found out, not to fall out of balance or slip
It's usually if a sequence of hard moves is somehow separated or stands out from the rest of the route.
No screams like other dudes
Beautiful video. Absolutely beautiful.
You were climbing this in a freaking thunderstorm?!?! How?! Must have been super humid
Thanks for giving me what I didn't know I wanted!
Congratulation on finishing the project.
God you’re talking about the holds!
Am i the only one realizing that he climbed a fricking 9c?!
Grazie per portarci lassù con te Stefano!!
i say he could do it easily if he wouldn't change clothes on his way up ;)
Extremely interesting ! Thanks .
Thank you for the spoiler alert. Was thinking of giving it a go next weekend! Brilliant again Stefano.
Who knew that only after 5 days he will send this! Congrats Stefano, train more and train strong!
incredible, fascinating !!!
So if the holds are sharpe and ruff...does that up the grade?
Thank you for doing this. Incredible.
"Dont watch this video if you want to try this onsight" ... A man/woman of such power has not yet been born most likely 😂
Amazing video, thank you for posting!!
thank you stefano, great video. some holds we're actually better than i thought, but of course most of them look insane, especially considering how much hard work you to put in, to even reach those holds haha best of luck, you will suceed, of that i am sure :)
Awesome, i love your work and climbing attitude ! 💪
Have to admit that Stefano makes climbing videos that I've always wished to be made. Big inspiration, big thanks!
"Do not watch if you want to try it ONSIGHT"... yikes
So nice to see how you’re grip is on the holds. Seeing what you do with you’re thumb etc.
More difficult to see is the inclination of the wall … as steep as the moonboard 40 degrées?
Such a cool vid. Loved every minute!
Loved this video, please keep making them!