Hello Nelson, This video was really helpful. But can you do it for 1100/1200? Not because it’s my rating. But because around 800 your data will be affected by new players who start around 800 and may be either weaker or stronger than 800. Unless you picked games of people stuck at 800. Also, at 800 everything is based on 1 move calculations. Your 1 move, opponents 1 move. Thanks for your videos, I have learned maximum from your channel. Love ❤
@@thewrittenlegalist8110 he answered in another video that it will cost but the price hasn’t been announced yet. The only clue was that it will probably cost more than other classes but because it’s way more in depth and detailed. I think it was in the recent video where he played on his normal account and thinks out loud.
Looks like a helpful series. All the different types of blunders (rook blunder, queen blunder, &c.) that cost a piece all seem to be variants on the same theme: piece safety - what you've called "blunder checking." Regarding moving too fast, I'm amazed at the number of people who play Rapid or Blitz as if it were Bullet.
one of my common blunders is developing a bishop and forgetting that it was only defender of the knight's pawn. Good way to lose a rook and ruin everything
Exactly. Very common mistake. After a few rook losses, I'm finally watching my back more carefully. But another common mistake for me is bringing up the Queen too early and ending up losing her or making about 8 moves with her out of 15 in total.
in the position at 15:23, there is some counterplay if black decides to focus on taking the rook with Ng5, Bxh8, and Nc7 giving you the fork on the king and rook. here black can force a queen trade and maintain a completely winning position but I'd say its unlikely at 800 Elo level and if black doesn't find the queen trade you end the exchange only down a pawn. if black slows down and plays O-O-O before taking the rook the game is completely lost but when you're that focused on a specific plan its hard to find moves like that. With good play black is completely winning here but I'd love it if you could highlight lines like this as it would show newer players that just because they made a blunder like this there are ways to try and get some compensation for it and especially at the lower levels the game isn't always completely over. great video as always, love the content💛
In the words of Levy Rozman, 1. "You had 9 minutes on the clock and you spent 2 seconds on that move and blundered the queen" 2. "How can you spent 30 seconds thinking and play THAT move. Can't you see the free queen."
Waiting for the 1400 ELO ones... I've been stuck at 1300ish for 3 months! I was actually stuck at 1000ish for 2 years before I found your channel, so thanks very much.
This is a great series! Levy has 10 times your subscribers. Levy is NOT 10 times better than you. You are providing truly great useful content here. 👍👍👍
Agree, most other chess content the youtube algorithm throws at people will not help you improve. I filtered out most of it and mostly stick with Chess Vibes now.
It's okay bro, don't worry too much about rating, just keep grinding on learning the game and your rating will follow later There's a lot to learn so give yourself some time 😉
Hi nelson. Great spreadsheet. Your passion for chess invigorates me to learn more. Well done. So at 16.35, you asked what moved we would play but only showed the knight blunder. What would you have moved instead? Is b4 threat viable to later remove Queen to capture Bishop on f7?
From my own personal chess history, I'd improved my chessplay by following some basic rules - Know the opening principals and understand their purpuse(!) Take for example the French - advance variation. If played correctly, both players start with a lot of pawn moves and often castle very late. The opening principals however suggest the opposite: do less pawn moves and develop your pieces. But the idea behind those is to avoid to have your King exposed with no pieces there to defend while your opponent already has his pieaces out ready for attack. In the French advance, this will not happen - the center is totally blocked and an attack will not happen so soon. Therefore, these rules have a different value than in a Scotch or Ponziani. - Take your time Already mentioned in the video and pretty self-explanatory. Check what is attacked and what is defended. - Keep in mind that your opponent has other ideas. Let's say you want to play a Ponziani, so you start with e4, your opponent plays d6. You continue with Nf4 followed by Nf6 by your opponent. And to play a Ponziani you continue with c3(???). The idea behind the Ponziani is to play d4 to gain a strong center. In the Pirc defense, you can play that immediately in your second move, as d4 is not attacked. As black did not follow your expected plan and play's something different, you end up in a position where your pawn on e4 is hanging and your knight cannot go to c3. So if your opponent plays something unexpected, stop and rethink - Don't panic after a blunder Especially as a lower rated player, blunders are part of the game and occur quite often. A very bad habit after a blunder is to panic and therefore play quick - and blunder again. I've made this mistake very often and to be honest, I still sometimes fell for it. As if a quick move can revent your mistake. Instead, take your time and evaluate your position. Check for the damage - if you've for example lost a rook for a bishop in the opening, your position is maybe still playable, especially if you have a lead in development.Or readjust your goals. Remember - if your opponent is at the same level as you, he may blunder later.
I kind of don't agree with the opening principles. I mean, yes, they play a huge role on the board, but I'm rated 900, and the only opening I know is the Bird's Opening, along with one defense, which is the Scandinavian Defense. I feel like openings don't matter that much up to a rating of 1200 or so. A strong grasp of the basics is what you should aim for, like knowing when to trade, when to attack, when to defend, which square to cover, how to threaten your opponent, and planning moves.
@@usericvusrqluu I highly suggest you to put some effort in your opening skills, especially on defences. As white you can somehow control on the opening. But with the Scandinavian as your only resource of defence, what do you do againt d4??? Do you instantly resign? Strategic knowledge is important - but if you blunder your opening and be behind two pieces on turn 10 without compensation, all of your knowledge is worthless as you neither have the time nor the material to attack
@@manuelkipke5712First thing - I typed that comment when I was rated 900. Seven days later, I'm rated 1028 and still only know the Sicilian Defense (modern variation) along with the same opening, which I'm not even using right now because opponents never play the perfect line to let me perform the full potential of my opening. Moving forward, what do I play against 1.d4? I play 1.d4 as well, and then it depends on whether my opponent attacks and I need to defend, or if they let me capture the attacking flag. It's more about thinking and analyzing the board situation rather than playing learnt moves.
Me when he asks what i would play. Me: 1st how tf he ends up in this position, After thinking best move He: Hopefully you didn't say. Me: Well shit thats why i am 600
Bigger question is how to long time players look at a board and see the potential threats? The problem with my being low level, I have to look at every piece and look at all the squares each one can go to. By the time I've done that I don't have time to much consider what happens next. At least I've played enough I'm starting to recognize some two move tactics quickly but I'm still an easy target more often than not. It's like learning to read where one person is still sounding out words and the other can read an entire phrase in a glance.
The most important squares that change when you make a move is where you move to and where you moved from. So instead of checking every piece, you only need check all possible lines from these critical squares. So if I wanted to move my knight from e7 to g6, I would check the ranks, files, diagonals and knight moves from g6 to make sure no pieces from there can capture them. Any other piece is completely irrelevant. I'd also check any ranks, files, and diagonals from e5 to make sure I'm not blundering a discovery. I'm actually shocked no one knows this trick. Most people tell you to check every piece, and that's _waaay_ too slow in comparison to the trick.
It is slow, which is why beginners should play at least 15+10. But the best way to get faster is to practice doing it a lot. Who cares if you lose some games on time as a beginner, as long as you are building up your board vision you will quickly get that rating back
@@danielyuan9862 Well somewhat yes but mostly no. When my opponent makes a move I only to start considering immediate threats. The new threats only involve where that piece can now attack so the other threats remain constant. But now I have to consider my move. That's where I have to consider so many pieces. Where did that move increase and decrease the number of defenders. If the defense count is in my favor, what order should I attack in, if at all. Obviously I don't consider every pawn every time, but I need to consider each piece on how its position is strengthened or weakened. There are shortcuts such as a pawn move on the right often doesn't affect the left side much if at all. But lets suppose I relieve some pawn stress in the center. Can I back it up from my current position? That unfortunately requires consideration of most the pieces. Better players know the answer because they've usually been there before. Starting out you don't. I just won a game because my rook was on an open file. My opponent moved a piece such that it now blocked his king from moving left. I checked the king with my knight and it was mate because he was smothered to the right. I hadn't touched that rook in a number of moves and it was forgotten. I get clobbered the same way. Opening you can ignore pieces that are undeveloped. Endgame there just aren't very many pieces, but middle game and everything seems to matter.
@ 6:06 - I saw the fork, but I still liked the move. I understood that I'd lose the Knight, if the Queen recaptured... which I think is a natural move. However, once the Queen moves off of c4, the Bishop is hanging and the King can take the Bishop on f7. This leaves white with a cramped position, just like black, but black controls more of the center... albeit, with an exposed King, but no imminent Checkmate threats. If the Queen doesn't capture the Knight on c2, then you win a Rook and eventually lose your Knight. So, I would agree that this was a bad move if the Bishop wasn't taken on f7. I would appreciate you telling us why this would still be a bad move if you follow Q-c2 with K-f7. Losing a Knight for a Pawn and a Bishop is a good trade I would think.
(@2:34) Black could also play b5 denying a4 to the white rook. It also gives the black king an escape square at b7, if white drops their rook back to d3 to renew the threat. 😊
Number 5. KNIGHT Blunders example 2. Black can get his piece back w bishop check that leads to a number of forced exchanges ending w black King talking whites bishop.
5:57 Nxc2+ is not as stupid as it looks ("forgetting the queen"). Two pieces are hanging and you have to give up one of them (presumably). Hard to save both. After knight takes, queen takes, you can check with bishop and take theirs. Problem is the queen fork in the end, but the idea is not that stupid.
Hey, cool video, I am ~1000 and I still make a lot of these mistakes. One request I would have for upcoming videos like this: It would be super nice to know what the acutal best move was in each position. For example at the puzzle at 5:30 I don't see any good way to defend against the fork on c6 and now I am wondering if black is just loosing in this position even when not vlundering the queen. Would be nice to know if there is any good move in each position.
Bb6, removing the fork. Then if Nxc6, Qd6 attacks the N, forcing it to move, and you have B and Q attacking the pawn on d4. Or you could also remove the fork by BxNc3, trading pieces. But IMO the first solution is better overall.
I think the type of piece being blundered or overlooked is irrelevant information as those are just the symptoms. The most important mistakes are caused by something like the 2 second moves (simply not thinking) or tunnel vision - and that's what people have to think about and analyse.
At 6:15, it looks like *potentially* they wanted to take the bishop that the queen was protecting? Or at least that's a trade-off (puts them in a terrible place with the other knight it looks like, idk).
What definately helps you improve in Rapid is only playing ONE GAME A DAY! where you analyse your game afterwards. Making a move in 2 seconds is bad no matter if that was the best move in the position or not. Use your time in rapid! And if you crave for more chess just play meaningless blitz where you can blunder everything and don't feel bad about it.
at 15:45, 1. Bb5+ Nd7 (only good blocking solution) 2. Qxc7 Bxh8 3. f3 blocks the B's diagonal, trapping it; 3. ...Rd8 to save R 4. Qxa7, then b6, then castles. IMO good compensation for the R. OR, 1. Bb5+ Kd8 2. f3 Bxh8 3. castles, and Black is left with an awkward position. Either way there is still a lot of game to be played.
I don't think at 6:01 kxc2 is a blunder because after q takes then king takes bishop it was defending and you get a pawn and a bishop for a knight?????
How did you choose the games? Was that manual work or is there an API to extract it? In the game I just did the opponent was winning before he allowed my rook to skewer his king and queen.
I'm confused about the Knight fork at 6:14 Yes the queen takes the knight but you capture the bishop. How is this a bad move? Maybe not the best move but still not bad.
good to meet you You have amazing explanations. Thanks. I'm around 2000. And I'm pleasantly surprised by these players. The truth is that for example at 3:12 it's a really good move. I thought at these levels they would just take the turret. It is true that he did not see that he could mate . But we all don't see it sometimes
6:08 nice deflection of the queen, now Kxf7 is possible, you just need to insert Bb4 inbetween, made possible by the same brilliancy Nxc2, FORCING queen to move. Getting rid of the defensive c pawn that would prevent Bb4, multi-purpose Nxc2+ !!!
After Bb4+ king will move to f1, and if you capture the bishop on f7 with your king, white will move Qc4+/Qb3+, forking your bishop and king, and you lost a piece, just like the whole game
@@chess26622 I know, I know, thanx. It's a losing move indeed, and black had the quiet Be7 or ambitious Qe7 instead. Just wanted to highlight that it was probably a desperado attempt that don't work if white finds that he has to move the king after the check. Making the black king and bishop guilty and liable for all the damage that happens next. So not a knight (and queen) blunder. 🤪
hey guys at this point Nelson never replied to my question about the course i already enlisted but i don’t know how it works im not asking about the price he made this one clear what i don’t understand why it’s limited what if i want to buy it later why it won’t be available?? isn’t it like a chessable course i buy and keep?? i really appreciate if someone can explain cause im very interested
Hey Nelly !! At the 6:57 mark, I can hear the disappointment in your voice: “ . . . . and what’s really amazing about this is that white didn’t take it.” Lol !!!!
None of these 800s ever play me I guess, I feel like I'm always playing Magnus lol. Would breaking 1500 be useful for me when I'm only 800? Would like to try a course but I'm not even sure what I'm supposed to be working on.
Whats interesting is like at 7:40 before Nelson even asked what was played and without even thinking my brain goes Queen D3 as well..Now this is stupid as hell, but for some reason if im not ACTIVELY looking at the board and all pieces, my brain auto-pilots and will mistake a bishop as a pawn.. I also have horrible memory, i play games sometimes just looking away from the board and back ill forget if im even playing as black or white.. idk if theres something to fix things like that 😅
Really useful! Yes. I make all these blunders on the regular. I guess the next step is to check out your other videos on calculating and checking to establish a thinking method to catch all these. One question - you mention speed in moves, what sort of speed do you consider normal? I'm mostly on 15 + 10 and maybe if an average game is 35 moves, ~30s per move is optimal? Or doesn't it really work that way?
A faster way to improve your chess skills: chessvibes.net
Ok.🙂
Hello Nelson,
This video was really helpful. But can you do it for 1100/1200? Not because it’s my rating. But because around 800 your data will be affected by new players who start around 800 and may be either weaker or stronger than 800. Unless you picked games of people stuck at 800. Also, at 800 everything is based on 1 move calculations. Your 1 move, opponents 1 move.
Thanks for your videos, I have learned maximum from your channel. Love ❤
Does the 1500 course cost money? I keep looking for a price
Does the course cost money?
@@thewrittenlegalist8110 he answered in another video that it will cost but the price hasn’t been announced yet. The only clue was that it will probably cost more than other classes but because it’s way more in depth and detailed. I think it was in the recent video where he played on his normal account and thinks out loud.
“Well hopefully you didn’t say g5.”
Me, happily proclaiming “g5” seconds before: 😃
This is helpful for 800 elo players! And Nelson has prepared 1000, 1200, & 1400 players in the future too! Cant wait for 3 other videos!
12:05 Of course he spent such low amount of time, his name is Speedrunner after all
😂
800 elo mistakes? I only see 6. Where are the other 794? Help I’m struggling
That's the number of mistakes you made in your career 😂
numbers confuse me what is 800
Rating @@roynaba7669
The worst jokes are the funniest. Man this one was terrible and I love it
@@roynaba7669 rating
One of the best chess content creators on RUclips. Keep it up👍
Looks like a helpful series. All the different types of blunders (rook blunder, queen blunder, &c.) that cost a piece all seem to be variants on the same theme: piece safety - what you've called "blunder checking." Regarding moving too fast, I'm amazed at the number of people who play Rapid or Blitz as if it were Bullet.
one of my common blunders is developing a bishop and forgetting that it was only defender of the knight's pawn. Good way to lose a rook and ruin everything
Exactly. Very common mistake. After a few rook losses, I'm finally watching my back more carefully. But another common mistake for me is bringing up the Queen too early and ending up losing her or making about 8 moves with her out of 15 in total.
in the position at 15:23, there is some counterplay if black decides to focus on taking the rook with Ng5, Bxh8, and Nc7 giving you the fork on the king and rook. here black can force a queen trade and maintain a completely winning position but I'd say its unlikely at 800 Elo level and if black doesn't find the queen trade you end the exchange only down a pawn. if black slows down and plays O-O-O before taking the rook the game is completely lost but when you're that focused on a specific plan its hard to find moves like that. With good play black is completely winning here but I'd love it if you could highlight lines like this as it would show newer players that just because they made a blunder like this there are ways to try and get some compensation for it and especially at the lower levels the game isn't always completely over. great video as always, love the content💛
In the words of Levy Rozman,
1. "You had 9 minutes on the clock and you spent 2 seconds on that move and blundered the queen"
2. "How can you spent 30 seconds thinking and play THAT move. Can't you see the free queen."
Nelson be Like: I really hope you didn’t make THIS move
Me: Erhmmm… It didn’t look that bad 😂
Waiting for the 1400 ELO ones... I've been stuck at 1300ish for 3 months!
I was actually stuck at 1000ish for 2 years before I found your channel, so thanks very much.
So happy to see how hard you work for chess, welldone and thank you for educating us !!
jokes on you, i am barely 700 elo
looking forward to the 1500 course !!!!!
This is a great series! Levy has 10 times your subscribers. Levy is NOT 10 times better than you. You are providing truly great useful content here. 👍👍👍
Agree, most other chess content the youtube algorithm throws at people will not help you improve. I filtered out most of it and mostly stick with Chess Vibes now.
Levy is a great entertainer and most definitely better at chess than Nelson but Nelson is 10 times better at teaching.
Jeez and I'm in the 400s. I must REALLY suck
It's okay bro, don't worry too much about rating, just keep grinding on learning the game and your rating will follow later
There's a lot to learn so give yourself some time 😉
@@bucketspree4952 Thanks partner!!
Hi nelson. Great spreadsheet. Your passion for chess invigorates me to learn more. Well done. So at 16.35, you asked what moved we would play but only showed the knight blunder. What would you have moved instead? Is b4 threat viable to later remove Queen to capture Bishop on f7?
From my own personal chess history, I'd improved my chessplay by following some basic rules
- Know the opening principals and understand their purpuse(!)
Take for example the French - advance variation. If played correctly, both players start with a lot of pawn moves and often castle very late. The opening principals however suggest the opposite: do less pawn moves and develop your pieces. But the idea behind those is to avoid to have your King exposed with no pieces there to defend while your opponent already has his pieaces out ready for attack. In the French advance, this will not happen - the center is totally blocked and an attack will not happen so soon. Therefore, these rules have a different value than in a Scotch or Ponziani.
- Take your time
Already mentioned in the video and pretty self-explanatory. Check what is attacked and what is defended.
- Keep in mind that your opponent has other ideas.
Let's say you want to play a Ponziani, so you start with e4, your opponent plays d6. You continue with Nf4 followed by Nf6 by your opponent. And to play a Ponziani you continue with c3(???).
The idea behind the Ponziani is to play d4 to gain a strong center. In the Pirc defense, you can play that immediately in your second move, as d4 is not attacked. As black did not follow your expected plan and play's something different, you end up in a position where your pawn on e4 is hanging and your knight cannot go to c3. So if your opponent plays something unexpected, stop and rethink
- Don't panic after a blunder
Especially as a lower rated player, blunders are part of the game and occur quite often. A very bad habit after a blunder is to panic and therefore play quick - and blunder again. I've made this mistake very often and to be honest, I still sometimes fell for it. As if a quick move can revent your mistake. Instead, take your time and evaluate your position. Check for the damage - if you've for example lost a rook for a bishop in the opening, your position is maybe still playable, especially if you have a lead in development.Or readjust your goals. Remember - if your opponent is at the same level as you, he may blunder later.
I kind of don't agree with the opening principles. I mean, yes, they play a huge role on the board, but I'm rated 900, and the only opening I know is the Bird's Opening, along with one defense, which is the Scandinavian Defense. I feel like openings don't matter that much up to a rating of 1200 or so. A strong grasp of the basics is what you should aim for, like knowing when to trade, when to attack, when to defend, which square to cover, how to threaten your opponent, and planning moves.
@@usericvusrqluu I highly suggest you to put some effort in your opening skills, especially on defences. As white you can somehow control on the opening. But with the Scandinavian as your only resource of defence, what do you do againt d4??? Do you instantly resign?
Strategic knowledge is important - but if you blunder your opening and be behind two pieces on turn 10 without compensation, all of your knowledge is worthless as you neither have the time nor the material to attack
@@manuelkipke5712First thing - I typed that comment when I was rated 900. Seven days later, I'm rated 1028 and still only know the Sicilian Defense (modern variation) along with the same opening, which I'm not even using right now because opponents never play the perfect line to let me perform the full potential of my opening. Moving forward, what do I play against 1.d4? I play 1.d4 as well, and then it depends on whether my opponent attacks and I need to defend, or if they let me capture the attacking flag. It's more about thinking and analyzing the board situation rather than playing learnt moves.
Me when he asks what i would play.
Me: 1st how tf he ends up in this position,
After thinking best move
He: Hopefully you didn't say.
Me: Well shit thats why i am 600
Bigger question is how to long time players look at a board and see the potential threats? The problem with my being low level, I have to look at every piece and look at all the squares each one can go to. By the time I've done that I don't have time to much consider what happens next. At least I've played enough I'm starting to recognize some two move tactics quickly but I'm still an easy target more often than not.
It's like learning to read where one person is still sounding out words and the other can read an entire phrase in a glance.
The most important squares that change when you make a move is where you move to and where you moved from.
So instead of checking every piece, you only need check all possible lines from these critical squares. So if I wanted to move my knight from e7 to g6, I would check the ranks, files, diagonals and knight moves from g6 to make sure no pieces from there can capture them. Any other piece is completely irrelevant. I'd also check any ranks, files, and diagonals from e5 to make sure I'm not blundering a discovery.
I'm actually shocked no one knows this trick. Most people tell you to check every piece, and that's _waaay_ too slow in comparison to the trick.
It is slow, which is why beginners should play at least 15+10. But the best way to get faster is to practice doing it a lot. Who cares if you lose some games on time as a beginner, as long as you are building up your board vision you will quickly get that rating back
@@danielyuan9862 Well somewhat yes but mostly no. When my opponent makes a move I only to start considering immediate threats. The new threats only involve where that piece can now attack so the other threats remain constant. But now I have to consider my move. That's where I have to consider so many pieces. Where did that move increase and decrease the number of defenders. If the defense count is in my favor, what order should I attack in, if at all. Obviously I don't consider every pawn every time, but I need to consider each piece on how its position is strengthened or weakened. There are shortcuts such as a pawn move on the right often doesn't affect the left side much if at all. But lets suppose I relieve some pawn stress in the center. Can I back it up from my current position? That unfortunately requires consideration of most the pieces. Better players know the answer because they've usually been there before. Starting out you don't. I just won a game because my rook was on an open file. My opponent moved a piece such that it now blocked his king from moving left. I checked the king with my knight and it was mate because he was smothered to the right. I hadn't touched that rook in a number of moves and it was forgotten. I get clobbered the same way. Opening you can ignore pieces that are undeveloped. Endgame there just aren't very many pieces, but middle game and everything seems to matter.
@ 6:06 - I saw the fork, but I still liked the move. I understood that I'd lose the Knight, if the Queen recaptured... which I think is a natural move. However, once the Queen moves off of c4, the Bishop is hanging and the King can take the Bishop on f7. This leaves white with a cramped position, just like black, but black controls more of the center... albeit, with an exposed King, but no imminent Checkmate threats. If the Queen doesn't capture the Knight on c2, then you win a Rook and eventually lose your Knight.
So, I would agree that this was a bad move if the Bishop wasn't taken on f7. I would appreciate you telling us why this would still be a bad move if you follow Q-c2 with K-f7. Losing a Knight for a Pawn and a Bishop is a good trade I would think.
(@2:34) Black could also play b5 denying a4 to the white rook. It also gives the black king an escape square at b7, if white drops their rook back to d3 to renew the threat. 😊
Super helpful!
I think that a nice idea would be for you to mention the best move in every situation as well.
This is so cool. Would love to see this for the 1200 ELO range.
Number 5. KNIGHT Blunders example 2.
Black can get his piece back w bishop check that leads to a number of forced exchanges ending w black King talking whites bishop.
5:57 Nxc2+ is not as stupid as it looks ("forgetting the queen"). Two pieces are hanging and you have to give up one of them (presumably). Hard to save both. After knight takes, queen takes, you can check with bishop and take theirs. Problem is the queen fork in the end, but the idea is not that stupid.
Hey, cool video, I am ~1000 and I still make a lot of these mistakes. One request I would have for upcoming videos like this: It would be super nice to know what the acutal best move was in each position. For example at the puzzle at 5:30 I don't see any good way to defend against the fork on c6 and now I am wondering if black is just loosing in this position even when not vlundering the queen. Would be nice to know if there is any good move in each position.
Bb6, removing the fork. Then if Nxc6, Qd6 attacks the N, forcing it to move, and you have B and Q attacking the pawn on d4. Or you could also remove the fork by BxNc3, trading pieces. But IMO the first solution is better overall.
Trade bishop for knight or just do Qd6 IMO
These examples are so relatable…. Like 11:11 I literally did the same and didn’t see Nb4 can defend the bishop.
This is a great video, Nelson. Thanks for the work done.
This feels like a high-light reel of my last 100 lost games
Nelson is the best teacher out there ......better than any chess streamer in teaching concepts.🎉
Would love to see the Dutch Leningrad in your ELO climb! Great video as always!!!
Perfect, thank you nelson
But why did he ask the move we’d make and then not tell us his suggestion???
15:45 Obviously, taking the free rook was an inaccuracy that we'd all play, but what's the best move in that line?
Waiting for the longer version where you analyze 1000 games
I think the type of piece being blundered or overlooked is irrelevant information as those are just the symptoms. The most important mistakes are caused by something like the 2 second moves (simply not thinking) or tunnel vision - and that's what people have to think about and analyse.
Very helpul, I feel like seeing my patterns in your analysing. Thx!
Another great & useful video , thank you - taking my time is something I need to watch !
At 6:15, it looks like *potentially* they wanted to take the bishop that the queen was protecting? Or at least that's a trade-off (puts them in a terrible place with the other knight it looks like, idk).
@Nelson: (no. 5) in one of your rating climb videos you talked about an app to train knight moves. Could you tell me the name of that app?
What definately helps you improve in Rapid is only playing ONE GAME A DAY! where you analyse your game afterwards. Making a move in 2 seconds is bad no matter if that was the best move in the position or not. Use your time in rapid! And if you crave for more chess just play meaningless blitz where you can blunder everything and don't feel bad about it.
please do this up to 2000 or beyond
Nelson can you make one for 2,000 elo.
I am completely honest but I have no idea how to progress at this point anymore.
at 15:45, 1. Bb5+ Nd7 (only good blocking solution) 2. Qxc7 Bxh8 3. f3 blocks the B's diagonal, trapping it; 3. ...Rd8 to save R 4. Qxa7, then b6, then castles. IMO good compensation for the R.
OR, 1. Bb5+ Kd8 2. f3 Bxh8 3. castles, and Black is left with an awkward position. Either way there is still a lot of game to be played.
If I know anything about being terrible at chess, it's that 'backwards bishop' is devastating
you're insane in the best way possible that is a crazy amount of work!
I don't think at 6:01 kxc2 is a blunder because after q takes then king takes bishop it was defending and you get a pawn and a bishop for a knight?????
NESLON YOU ARE A GENIUS 👀
Or at least thinking like a genius. Love what you re doing BRO. Keep it up ❤
How did you choose the games? Was that manual work or is there an API to extract it?
In the game I just did the opponent was winning before he allowed my rook to skewer his king and queen.
*Nice Intro there ! ❤*
I'm confused about the Knight fork at 6:14 Yes the queen takes the knight but you capture the bishop. How is this a bad move? Maybe not the best move but still not bad.
@pluck8913 after Kxf7 then exd6 and white is up a piece. Be7 in the original position doesn’t lose any material.
Thanks for yet another supreme and enlightening chess lecture! :)👍👍👍
Will the spreadsheet be posted?
Im very good at seeing the knight fork 1ms after my move
I wonder how many games were early resignations
good to meet you You have amazing explanations. Thanks. I'm around 2000. And I'm pleasantly surprised by these players. The truth is that for example at 3:12 it's a really good move. I thought at these levels they would just take the turret. It is true that he did not see that he could mate . But we all don't see it sometimes
Hi Nelson! How much will breaking 1500 cost?
6:08 nice deflection of the queen, now Kxf7 is possible, you just need to insert Bb4 inbetween, made possible by the same brilliancy Nxc2, FORCING queen to move.
Getting rid of the defensive c pawn that would prevent Bb4, multi-purpose Nxc2+ !!!
After Bb4+ king will move to f1, and if you capture the bishop on f7 with your king, white will move Qc4+/Qb3+, forking your bishop and king, and you lost a piece, just like the whole game
@@chess26622 I know, I know, thanx.
It's a losing move indeed, and black had the quiet Be7 or ambitious Qe7 instead.
Just wanted to highlight that it was probably a desperado attempt that don't work if white finds that he has to move the king after the check.
Making the black king and bishop guilty and liable for all the damage that happens next. So not a knight (and queen) blunder. 🤪
hey guys at this point Nelson never replied to my question about the course i already enlisted but i don’t know how it works im not asking about the price he made this one clear what i don’t understand why it’s limited what if i want to buy it later why it won’t be available?? isn’t it like a chessable course i buy and keep?? i really appreciate if someone can explain cause im very interested
Hey Nelly !!
At the 6:57 mark, I can hear the disappointment in your voice:
“ . . . . and what’s really amazing about this is that white didn’t take it.”
Lol !!!!
I wonder how long it took before one of them noticed
If this was a Gotham GTE game he would be having a seizure over this.
Is gxh6 in the first move good(taking the bishop on h6), or b5 to capture the rook in that checkmate position in the second position good too?
would Bxc3 be good in the first knight fork example and Bc7 be good in the second knight fork example
Great video Nelson :) much appreciated
None of these 800s ever play me I guess, I feel like I'm always playing Magnus lol. Would breaking 1500 be useful for me when I'm only 800? Would like to try a course but I'm not even sure what I'm supposed to be working on.
To be honest you are probably not noticing when your opponents blunder.
@@astros7242Yeah astro's right, work on your tactics and you'll see how many blunders they really make
Fact, that this knowledge is for free is mesmerizing, your huge Nelson
*you’re
12:25
Ada Indonesia Cuy, Otw viral 😁😁😁🇮🇩🇮🇩🇮🇩
Pejuang Indonesia ~
How much does the course cost?
can you do the same for 1500/1600?
Whats interesting is like at 7:40 before Nelson even asked what was played and without even thinking my brain goes Queen D3 as well..Now this is stupid as hell, but for some reason if im not ACTIVELY looking at the board and all pieces, my brain auto-pilots and will mistake a bishop as a pawn.. I also have horrible memory, i play games sometimes just looking away from the board and back ill forget if im even playing as black or white.. idk if theres something to fix things like that 😅
Anybody else think Tal has made more than one of these "mistakes"?
When we make them, they are mistakes.When Tal makes them, they are genius moves. 😂
Really useful! Yes. I make all these blunders on the regular. I guess the next step is to check out your other videos on calculating and checking to establish a thinking method to catch all these. One question - you mention speed in moves, what sort of speed do you consider normal? I'm mostly on 15 + 10 and maybe if an average game is 35 moves, ~30s per move is optimal? Or doesn't it really work that way?
Bro I love you your videos are very very good I am stuck at 1100-1300 elo can you help?
No.
@@surensenat4024 Did I ask you? 😂😂😂
@@ArshitRawat-w3j If you do not receive a reply from Nelson, then what will you do?😅
@@anthonyrooksac I will just watch his other videos and try to improve
One word : puzzles
Sir play a friendly match with Levy (Gothamchess) 😄.... 10 minutes or 15/10 minutes...
6:18 can't you just recapture the bishop there?
Impulse moves are death
Need 1600 one
Amazing idea!
Well, this explains my 862 rating! 🙂
I am so away from bad moves.😃
Leave a reply a week from now, and I'll let u know if I've recovered from my bad rating drop.
Thanks
wow
Rated 400 please
hi
Title was so clickbaity but I don't care because its Nelsons content and its always good!
15:25 I think this is more the "losing sight of the bishop" variety
If I'm rated it is accidental; I just enjoy researching analyzing and playing the game.
Dude, lmao, why did you delete my comment? Afraid people will prefer to practice on Lichess for free?