I wonder what brand Copper headgaslet is it? When I went down the head gasket rabbit hole and found some really bad quality Copper head gaskets on the market. The PA Blanchard had the NOS Copper that were of excellent quality. The engine hoist for the head removal is a game changer. Made it a lot easier. Excellent job cleaning the surfaces.
Definitely check head and block are flat. Composite gaskets are an improvement over copper. Carbon build up in the head is probably due to poor combustion, resulting from the blown head gasket. As long as the head and block are flat, a good clean up should suffice.
It will be interesting to see if the head needs to skimmed and if so, by how much. It might be worth researching to see what the limits are before it causes any clearance issues. I am afraid l cant advise you as my machining/ tuning is based on 2t motorcycles! As per my reply on your 'what is this noise' vid, l have the exact same problem, but l am getting the whole engine looked at as the vehicle is a new project for me and the engine us unknown (and l might go down the diesel route. Back on topic - l might be tempted if l were you to drop the oil and the sump pan to see what tje bottom end looks like. Now would be the time if ever there was one. All the best.
I know this has probably been covered and unlikely... there is usually a "PETROL" stamped on the gasket facing up. Checking you had it around the right way. Just thought I'd add the comment.
Hi Alex, thanks for your message. That copper gasket must have been the cheapest of the cheap as is didn’t even have that stamp. Next update coming out v soon. 👍
At the bare minimum it needs skimmed and tested, if you can the block may need faced off also If you just skim the head and put it back together it will be a case of seeing how long it will last and if it goes again send the whole engine off to someone like Barum engines for a total rebuild with it all measured up proper
Gutsy move to get at the head gasket that way. I love a good shortcut! I would not worry about that rubber piece that you found in the carb - likely from the rubber flex hose that runs between the oil/air bath and elbow - or the rubber sleeve that connects the elbow to the carb. Sometimes a little rubber gets shaved off by the elbow or carb's sharp edge. If the rubber shaving made it into the combustion system it would have been burned and ejected through the exhaust pretty easily. Part 2, 8:37 mark = ouch! Agree that 3-4 gasket divider probably went first. You caught it SUPER early - nice work! I agree with others - check for flatness. My main thinking is that, with copper gaskets (I recall that) you need to re-torque several times after running/cycling... I don't remember seeing if you did that in your earlier videos. Either way - you found the issue and can now solve. Awesome.
Hi Charles, it’s great to hear from you and thanks for your feedback. It’s not the first time I’ve found rubber in the Carb, so I hear you re it’s origin. Will definitely check for flatness, and you are right I didn’t re-torque the head bolts post reassembly! Steamwally also mentioned the same thing. Well I guess I learned the hard way. The gasket arrived yesterday, so am in a position to push on tomorrow if the head/block is fine. How is your Landy? Regards Joël
I think there are a number of issues going on here. From memory you didn't have a timing light when tuning, that may have played a minor role if the timing was way off and the carb was set to "compensate" to get is running. I also noticed you didn't remove the head bolts in the correct sequence, so if you didn't tighten them in the correct sequence and to the correct torque and then re torque after the engine was run in, that will for sure cause the current problem. The biggest issue is that as you stand now, you should at the very minimum be sending the head off to be skimmed as it's almost certainly slightly warped, at which point you would want it fully gone over hardened valve seats etc. If it were me I would refresh the bottom end as well, have the block deck checked, do bearings and have everything measured up, unless thats already been done, but I don't think you did the engine? Its less drama and cost then you think, assembling one of these freshly machined is a day and parts are not expensive. Machining can be, but as a min you need that head gone over by a machine shop. Those nicks in the bores aren't ideal either. I really suggest just jumping in an do that engine once at this point, the rest of the restoration is beautiful, I assume you actually want to drive it yeah.
Hi Greg, thanks for your reply. You clearly know your stuff. I will certainly be checking for any deformation of the head or block. Re the head bolts, I removed them in the order the manual says to tighten them up (oops) Which I realised just after having done it.
@@My911 I'm not a mechanic, but up until last year my only car was a '67 MGB I've had in various forms for 15 years. She is not a toy, she's my car and I needed her to work every day. So I taught myself how to work on it like you are. Rebuilding the engine was a little intimidating, but it's not as hard as one might think once you get your head around getting into it. I've done a few since. I would just bite the bullet and do the entire engine, then you are good for another 30 years. Mainly because modern engines don't really get rebuilt and as such machine shops and engine rebuilders become more and more boutique and expensive. The guy that did my gearbox which was the only thing I didn't do myself was 80 and the last one he did. If I was to need it done now, I would probably have to send it from NZ to the UK and back. You don't have a hard engine to get right, its just getting your head around doing it.
Wenn schon ein Deutscher etwas an den Fzg. erklärt, sollte er das auf deutsch machen, es gibt wahrlich genug Filme aus und in englisch. Und diese Fzg. sind ja auch in Deutschland, weit verbreitet und alle verstehen nun mal kein englisch und sind froh mal was auf deutsch zu hören.
Hallo Andreas, Ich weiß was du meinst. Habe auch überlegt ob ich die videos nochmal auf Deutsch drehe. Bin aber zeitlich noch nicht dazu gekommen. 🙂 LG Joël
Could have been running cool/rich with that carbon - could have been related to HG failure or another reason. Is thermostat OK? Is carb working correctly? What did plugs look like on removal? I attempt to get mine up to operating temp with preferably +/- an hour of driving reasonably regularly. They definitely run better after a few decent long drives. Looks like oil sludge in the block passageways, possibly remnants of standing for a long time during the wilderness years. Cheaper mineral oils do oxidise and cause sludge as they contain significant amounts of impurities. I'd use a decent quality branded diesel spec oil,,ACEA A3/B4, has more detergents and better anti-wear additive package (someone will say not to use diesel spec oil as it has more detergents and could release more particles but IMO cleaning up the internals would be a top priority) and do a couple of oil changes in quick succession. Also, as others have said, having got this far get the block/head mating surfaces checked for flatness and machine if needed, get everything tip top before putting it back together otherwise might need doing again soon.
What I'm trying to say is the problem isn't bad parts, its a lack of understanding of what you are trying to achieve and the way it was put together, so either seriously dive into learning how to rebuild an engine, in which case this is the ideal engine to learn on and not as difficult as you might think, or have someone else do it. Either way, you are going to need a machine shop if you want to sort it properly. Thinking that sliding in a new head gasket just by lifting the head is a little like thinking changing the oil on a blown engine will fix the problem.
I wonder what brand Copper headgaslet is it? When I went down the head gasket rabbit hole and found some really bad quality Copper head gaskets on the market. The PA Blanchard had the NOS Copper that were of excellent quality. The engine hoist for the head removal is a game changer. Made it a lot easier. Excellent job cleaning the surfaces.
Thanks Cory. I guess it was Britpart or similar. I can’t remember. But it’s gone now!
Wahhhh episode 2!
It’s coming… 😅
Is it flat … ? Having gone to this trouble (besides giving the head a massive clean up - including those oil ports) - I’d be checking it’s flat.
Thanks, will do.
Yes, check if there is cupping between the cylinders on the head and on the block. Both should be be flat.
Got to check both are flat before just bolting it back together ideally a skim or you could be doing the same again.
Thanks, I will be checking that next stop. 👍
Definitely check head and block are flat. Composite gaskets are an improvement over copper. Carbon build up in the head is probably due to poor combustion, resulting from the blown head gasket. As long as the head and block are flat, a good clean up should suffice.
Great, thanks Mark. 👍
It will be interesting to see if the head needs to skimmed and if so, by how much. It might be worth researching to see what the limits are before it causes any clearance issues. I am afraid l cant advise you as my machining/ tuning is based on 2t motorcycles!
As per my reply on your 'what is this noise' vid, l have the exact same problem, but l am getting the whole engine looked at as the vehicle is a new project for me and the engine us unknown (and l might go down the diesel route.
Back on topic - l might be tempted if l were you to drop the oil and the sump pan to see what tje bottom end looks like. Now would be the time if ever there was one.
All the best.
Thank you. Let me know which way you go with your engine.
I know this has probably been covered and unlikely... there is usually a "PETROL" stamped on the gasket facing up. Checking you had it around the right way. Just thought I'd add the comment.
Hi Alex, thanks for your message. That copper gasket must have been the cheapest of the cheap as is didn’t even have that stamp. Next update coming out v soon. 👍
At the bare minimum it needs skimmed and tested, if you can the block may need faced off also
If you just skim the head and put it back together it will be a case of seeing how long it will last and if it goes again send the whole engine off to someone like Barum engines for a total rebuild with it all measured up proper
Thanks Rob. 👍
the blown gasket appears to have less material between the cylinders where it has blown, more narrow though the block looks the same from above.
Hmm, true. Strange.
Did you do a compression test before taking the head off?
I did and put it into the last video ‘knocking noise’
Gutsy move to get at the head gasket that way. I love a good shortcut! I would not worry about that rubber piece that you found in the carb - likely from the rubber flex hose that runs between the oil/air bath and elbow - or the rubber sleeve that connects the elbow to the carb. Sometimes a little rubber gets shaved off by the elbow or carb's sharp edge. If the rubber shaving made it into the combustion system it would have been burned and ejected through the exhaust pretty easily. Part 2, 8:37 mark = ouch! Agree that 3-4 gasket divider probably went first. You caught it SUPER early - nice work! I agree with others - check for flatness. My main thinking is that, with copper gaskets (I recall that) you need to re-torque several times after running/cycling... I don't remember seeing if you did that in your earlier videos. Either way - you found the issue and can now solve. Awesome.
Hi Charles, it’s great to hear from you and thanks for your feedback. It’s not the first time I’ve found rubber in the Carb, so I hear you re it’s origin. Will definitely check for flatness, and you are right I didn’t re-torque the head bolts post reassembly! Steamwally also mentioned the same thing. Well I guess I learned the hard way. The gasket arrived yesterday, so am in a position to push on tomorrow if the head/block is fine. How is your Landy? Regards Joël
I think there are a number of issues going on here. From memory you didn't have a timing light when tuning, that may have played a minor role if the timing was way off and the carb was set to "compensate" to get is running. I also noticed you didn't remove the head bolts in the correct sequence, so if you didn't tighten them in the correct sequence and to the correct torque and then re torque after the engine was run in, that will for sure cause the current problem. The biggest issue is that as you stand now, you should at the very minimum be sending the head off to be skimmed as it's almost certainly slightly warped, at which point you would want it fully gone over hardened valve seats etc. If it were me I would refresh the bottom end as well, have the block deck checked, do bearings and have everything measured up, unless thats already been done, but I don't think you did the engine? Its less drama and cost then you think, assembling one of these freshly machined is a day and parts are not expensive. Machining can be, but as a min you need that head gone over by a machine shop. Those nicks in the bores aren't ideal either. I really suggest just jumping in an do that engine once at this point, the rest of the restoration is beautiful, I assume you actually want to drive it yeah.
Hi Greg, thanks for your reply. You clearly know your stuff. I will certainly be checking for any deformation of the head or block. Re the head bolts, I removed them in the order the manual says to tighten them up (oops) Which I realised just after having done it.
@@My911 I'm not a mechanic, but up until last year my only car was a '67 MGB I've had in various forms for 15 years. She is not a toy, she's my car and I needed her to work every day. So I taught myself how to work on it like you are. Rebuilding the engine was a little intimidating, but it's not as hard as one might think once you get your head around getting into it. I've done a few since. I would just bite the bullet and do the entire engine, then you are good for another 30 years. Mainly because modern engines don't really get rebuilt and as such machine shops and engine rebuilders become more and more boutique and expensive. The guy that did my gearbox which was the only thing I didn't do myself was 80 and the last one he did. If I was to need it done now, I would probably have to send it from NZ to the UK and back. You don't have a hard engine to get right, its just getting your head around doing it.
Wenn schon ein Deutscher etwas an den Fzg. erklärt, sollte er das auf deutsch machen, es gibt wahrlich genug Filme aus und in englisch. Und diese Fzg. sind ja auch in Deutschland, weit verbreitet und alle verstehen nun mal kein englisch und sind froh mal was auf deutsch zu hören.
Hallo Andreas, Ich weiß was du meinst. Habe auch überlegt ob ich die videos nochmal auf Deutsch drehe. Bin aber zeitlich noch nicht dazu gekommen. 🙂 LG Joël
Could have been running cool/rich with that carbon - could have been related to HG failure or another reason. Is thermostat OK? Is carb working correctly? What did plugs look like on removal? I attempt to get mine up to operating temp with preferably +/- an hour of driving reasonably regularly. They definitely run better after a few decent long drives. Looks like oil sludge in the block passageways, possibly remnants of standing for a long time during the wilderness years. Cheaper mineral oils do oxidise and cause sludge as they contain significant amounts of impurities. I'd use a decent quality branded diesel spec oil,,ACEA A3/B4, has more detergents and better anti-wear additive package (someone will say not to use diesel spec oil as it has more detergents and could release more particles but IMO cleaning up the internals would be a top priority) and do a couple of oil changes in quick succession. Also, as others have said, having got this far get the block/head mating surfaces checked for flatness and machine if needed, get everything tip top before putting it back together otherwise might need doing again soon.
Thank you. Very helpful indeed. All noted and saved. 👍
What I'm trying to say is the problem isn't bad parts, its a lack of understanding of what you are trying to achieve and the way it was put together, so either seriously dive into learning how to rebuild an engine, in which case this is the ideal engine to learn on and not as difficult as you might think, or have someone else do it. Either way, you are going to need a machine shop if you want to sort it properly. Thinking that sliding in a new head gasket just by lifting the head is a little like thinking changing the oil on a blown engine will fix the problem.