I like that u lay everything out how u took it off the car so it’s easier to put back together that’s something I do, my background trade is as a locksmith so pulling locks apart to repair I always did this also 😉
Gotta be methodical about disassemblies or it becomes a disaster in my experience, but when your careful everything seems to go nice & smooth. Your a locksmith? Never meet a locksmith but I had a friend when I was in elementary school that bough a lock picking set & guide book from a police magazine. He wrote MD next to his name when he ordered it & there were no questions asked 😹😹😹 we got into all kinds of trouble breaking into our older brothers rooms & finding all sorts of naughty bits 😆
@@BMR3 😂😂 cheeky kids 😉 was a locksmith for over 10yrs total, started when I was 16, I gave it up because I hated all the after hours/on call work... still got a few tools around the place but they are just collecting dust these days... I was watching one of ur vids and h talked about adding all metal gears into one of ur ma-020 cars, I forget the video but was wondering if u did it and what the results were?? 😊
@@JakeDogg-RIP yeah I can’t do late hours or on call work, I was a bar tender for about a week & said F this 😂 now I’m an accountant, still long hours but i start early & have the flexibility to pull extra hours when/where I want to. Plus I get anxiety dealing with people, I much prefer playing with numbers 🤓 Oh yeah, so regarding the metal gears I decided against it upon doing more research. So the Kyosho differential gears are always plastic (Shinio hobby diffs are full metal tho) & from what I gathered using a metal driveshaft gear paired with the metal spur gear will chew away at the differential gears over time. Plus I noticed that my plastic gears have perfect mesh so I see no reason to “upgrade” to full metal.
@@BMR3 that makes sense, I guess having all metal slows no “flex” between parts which could cause issues, and there’s that old saying “if it ain’t broke, don’t fix it!” 😉 Yeah I’m kinda the same, but I’m a delivery driver now, so just drive a small canter truck around the suburbs all day, much nice, plus I start and finish early, which I didn’t think I would ever like but it’s grown on me, only ever see some ppl as I do my delivers but most of the time it’s just a drop off and pick up, plus I can manage myself and the boss is happy 😊
Its not so much that there is no flex, but that the metal is so much harder then the plastic that it will just wear the bevel gear on the differential right off over time, it wont be overnight but it will eventually happen. The way to get around this would be to use a differential like the Shino Hobby oneway that comes with a full metal bevel gear. It just comes down to preference & if you want to commit to a full out metal build (which makes the car heavier & can be a good or bad thing depending on what your trying to do) . Being a delivery driver in the suburbs would be fine, sounds like its a nice set up for you & the hours sound perfect. I'm an early to bed, early to rise kind of guy. Plus not dealing with people is ideal LOL
To remove the bearings you want a dedicated bearing removal tool or needle nozed tweezers with a 45 degree bend, insert the tweezers into one side and push the outer side out from the inside
Thanks for the tip! Yeah I figured a special tool required for that job. I was thinking some needle nose pliers with a 45 degree bend would have been really helpful, I will have to get some now.
Geat video man. For better performance you should use the stock suspension for the front and stiffer for the rear. The noise your hearing could be coming from the wheels. I would recommend getting metal wheel nuts
Vince 3315 Honestly I’m new to RC tuning & drift cars/setups in general. I have done a lot of reading on forums, and watched a bunch of videos regarding drift setups, but I have little practical experience. This is my first shot at “tuning”, from what I gathered, a softer rear suspension & a stiffer front end will help influence over steering. The plan is to start with this set up, and I can fully adjust the front and rear now I have the Eagle Racing parts. I’m not too concerned with the noise, I think the gears and read end need more time to break in so it will run smoother. The car has very minimal time on it, especially with upgrade parts installed. I’m very limited with where I can drift at the moment, so I don’t get a lot of drive time. Hopefully I get time to start the diy drift track project next month so I start drifting more consistently.
It’s personal preferences & I would say just go neutral on the front toe bar so it’s a good middle ground between grip & drift driving. For camber knuckles, it comes down to how much grip you want. More camber means a smaller contact patch which means less grip.
3Racing is a budget brand. That said there is nothing wrong with them, just a cheep option & they can be hard to source at times. Any knuckle for the MA-020 should work since they are universally compatible on the 020. Have you looked into Eagle Racing? They will have the knuckles your looking for.
Having gone all metal on one AWD build i can say that its not better than the plastic, the added weight and weight distribution becomes noticeable. there is a sweet spot for metal s plastic mods but you normally cant work out what that sweet spot is and what metal parts you need until you have tried a bunch of them if you are at this point a small cooking scale to mesure the weight of the car before and after can be a helpful and cheap addition, if you have 2 of the same type you can measure front vs rear weight distribution and side weight distribution which i found crucial for evening out the left vs right steering and changing how the car curves during a drift
Yep thats the plan. I have a couple small scales & im planning on weighing my Eagle Racing parts to compare them against the stock plastic Kyosho parts. I just placed the order on the EA parts since I noticed the stock was getting low, so i will receive those soon. Current plan is to have all metal front end, to give the car a slight front end bias, and leave the rear as is for now. I will eventually focus on tuning the cars balance, but that is down the road. I will disassemble the car in three parts, front, middle chassis, & rear end so I judge them independently. I want to get some tiny weights so I can fully balance the left and right weight distribution with batteries loaded in the center chassis, as well as give the front end a slight weight bias from the rear end. But like I said this will be down the road with my stage 4 upgrades, not for a few months.
@@BMR3 classic RC learnings, alu is usless except for focusing break point to where you want it..... on the cheapest part in in the chain! dont matter what scale 1/5 to 1/64. Alu where wallowing onling
Kenon Hobby has some in stock, I’m not sure what color/degree you wanted so here’s a link to the list for all of them: www.kenonhobby.com/Steering-Suspension-Parts_c_190-3-4.html
@@chuckwalters4759 yep, the ma-010 ma-020 & ma-030 all use the same rear ends so the tie rod is universally compatible on the stock rear end that comes with the chassis.
@BMR 3 Thank you so much BMR. You have the best videos out there right now for upgrades on these drift kyoshos it can be very confusing on all of this and I would drive myself crazy trying to figure this all out!
Thanks for the video man, nice sharing. Do you have any clue about the brand that sell alumunium front knuckle for MA020 that still available right now? Because i can't find any of it.
Enlighten Photography I’m looking at getting Eagle Racing front camber knuckles, they have 0-3 degree. Here is a link to the zero degree, they are in stock and you can search the website for more MA-020 parts. www.broadtech.hk/eagleshop/shop/ShopProductDetail.aspx?id=MA20VE-29-0
Enlighten Photography Anytime buddy, I’m happy to help! I honestly recommend ordering ASAP, thanks for asking the question since it caused me to check their website & I did not realize how low the stock is on some of the MA-020 parts. I just placed my order yesterday
Done, Just finished my purchase on 0 degrees. I've been looking for this front alu knuckle for awhile since my stock knuckle seems to have some kind of white plastic stress mark (i'm not sure it's normal or not, because i'm a newbie on this mini rc stuff). Anyway, i'm glad that i found your awd mini z channel on youtube, because i kinda just started my mini z awd hobby and your videos really helping me so much 🙌
@@enlightenphotography7199 Nice, good call! I ordered the zero, 1, 2, & 3 degree knuckles, front arms, pins, springs, upper & lower plates, basically a full EA front end minus the differential & swing arms. I will be going over all the parts & weighing them against the stock plastic parts for comparison. I may try their front one way in the future, but for now i will stick to Kyosho & I dont like the design of their swing arms since they use an 0-ring.
Yeah to a degree. You can adjust the ride height & move the body mounts on an autoscale(this is difficult since the mounts are glued in, but not impossible) & you can either shim or shave the front mounting clip.
Start with simple shims & go from there. Only issue is the suspension dosent have a whole lot of travel so you might need to try more extreme measures to get the desired stance. Hope this helps & good luck with your build!
Had to learn that lesson the hard way & it’s the reason I did the SP chassis swap video series. I tell people to NOT use thread locker in future videos.
I like that u lay everything out how u took it off the car so it’s easier to put back together that’s something I do, my background trade is as a locksmith so pulling locks apart to repair I always did this also 😉
Gotta be methodical about disassemblies or it becomes a disaster in my experience, but when your careful everything seems to go nice & smooth.
Your a locksmith? Never meet a locksmith but I had a friend when I was in elementary school that bough a lock picking set & guide book from a police magazine. He wrote MD next to his name when he ordered it & there were no questions asked 😹😹😹 we got into all kinds of trouble breaking into our older brothers rooms & finding all sorts of naughty bits 😆
@@BMR3 😂😂 cheeky kids 😉 was a locksmith for over 10yrs total, started when I was 16, I gave it up because I hated all the after hours/on call work... still got a few tools around the place but they are just collecting dust these days...
I was watching one of ur vids and h talked about adding all metal gears into one of ur ma-020 cars, I forget the video but was wondering if u did it and what the results were?? 😊
@@JakeDogg-RIP yeah I can’t do late hours or on call work, I was a bar tender for about a week & said F this 😂 now I’m an accountant, still long hours but i start early & have the flexibility to pull extra hours when/where I want to. Plus I get anxiety dealing with people, I much prefer playing with numbers 🤓
Oh yeah, so regarding the metal gears I decided against it upon doing more research. So the Kyosho differential gears are always plastic (Shinio hobby diffs are full metal tho) & from what I gathered using a metal driveshaft gear paired with the metal spur gear will chew away at the differential gears over time. Plus I noticed that my plastic gears have perfect mesh so I see no reason to “upgrade” to full metal.
@@BMR3 that makes sense, I guess having all metal slows no “flex” between parts which could cause issues, and there’s that old saying “if it ain’t broke, don’t fix it!” 😉
Yeah I’m kinda the same, but I’m a delivery driver now, so just drive a small canter truck around the suburbs all day, much nice, plus I start and finish early, which I didn’t think I would ever like but it’s grown on me, only ever see some ppl as I do my delivers but most of the time it’s just a drop off and pick up, plus I can manage myself and the boss is happy 😊
Its not so much that there is no flex, but that the metal is so much harder then the plastic that it will just wear the bevel gear on the differential right off over time, it wont be overnight but it will eventually happen. The way to get around this would be to use a differential like the Shino Hobby oneway that comes with a full metal bevel gear. It just comes down to preference & if you want to commit to a full out metal build (which makes the car heavier & can be a good or bad thing depending on what your trying to do) .
Being a delivery driver in the suburbs would be fine, sounds like its a nice set up for you & the hours sound perfect. I'm an early to bed, early to rise kind of guy. Plus not dealing with people is ideal LOL
To remove the bearings you want a dedicated bearing removal tool or needle nozed tweezers with a 45 degree bend, insert the tweezers into one side and push the outer side out from the inside
Thanks for the tip! Yeah I figured a special tool required for that job. I was thinking some needle nose pliers with a 45 degree bend would have been really helpful, I will have to get some now.
Geat video man. For better performance you should use the stock suspension for the front and stiffer for the rear. The noise your hearing could be coming from the wheels. I would recommend getting metal wheel nuts
Vince 3315 Honestly I’m new to RC tuning & drift cars/setups in general. I have done a lot of reading on forums, and watched a bunch of videos regarding drift setups, but I have little practical experience. This is my first shot at “tuning”, from what I gathered, a softer rear suspension & a stiffer front end will help influence over steering. The plan is to start with this set up, and I can fully adjust the front and rear now I have the Eagle Racing parts.
I’m not too concerned with the noise, I think the gears and read end need more time to break in so it will run smoother. The car has very minimal time on it, especially with upgrade parts installed. I’m very limited with where I can drift at the moment, so I don’t get a lot of drive time. Hopefully I get time to start the diy drift track project next month so I start drifting more consistently.
Hi, if I put the toe in the 1.0 bar and the 1.0 rear camber knuckle can be fine or compromise driving and drifting ??
It’s personal preferences & I would say just go neutral on the front toe bar so it’s a good middle ground between grip & drift driving.
For camber knuckles, it comes down to how much grip you want. More camber means a smaller contact patch which means less grip.
Will MA-020VE ER knuckles fit? I cannot find knuckles specific to the MA-020 anywhere, also are 3racing parts any good?
3Racing is a budget brand. That said there is nothing wrong with them, just a cheep option & they can be hard to source at times.
Any knuckle for the MA-020 should work since they are universally compatible on the 020. Have you looked into Eagle Racing? They will have the knuckles your looking for.
Having gone all metal on one AWD build i can say that its not better than the plastic, the added weight and weight distribution becomes noticeable. there is a sweet spot for metal s plastic mods but you normally cant work out what that sweet spot is and what metal parts you need until you have tried a bunch of them
if you are at this point a small cooking scale to mesure the weight of the car before and after can be a helpful and cheap addition, if you have 2 of the same type you can measure front vs rear weight distribution and side weight distribution which i found crucial for evening out the left vs right steering and changing how the car curves during a drift
Yep thats the plan. I have a couple small scales & im planning on weighing my Eagle Racing parts to compare them against the stock plastic Kyosho parts. I just placed the order on the EA parts since I noticed the stock was getting low, so i will receive those soon. Current plan is to have all metal front end, to give the car a slight front end bias, and leave the rear as is for now.
I will eventually focus on tuning the cars balance, but that is down the road. I will disassemble the car in three parts, front, middle chassis, & rear end so I judge them independently. I want to get some tiny weights so I can fully balance the left and right weight distribution with batteries loaded in the center chassis, as well as give the front end a slight weight bias from the rear end. But like I said this will be down the road with my stage 4 upgrades, not for a few months.
@@BMR3 classic RC learnings, alu is usless except for focusing break point to where you want it..... on the cheapest part in in the chain! dont matter what scale 1/5 to 1/64. Alu where wallowing onling
Do you have a link to that PN rear tie rod i cannot find it. Thanks in advance!
Kenon Hobby has some in stock, I’m not sure what color/degree you wanted so here’s a link to the list for all of them: www.kenonhobby.com/Steering-Suspension-Parts_c_190-3-4.html
@@BMR3 THANK YOU!
@@BMR3 Will the MA-010 work? I currently have a MA-020.
@@chuckwalters4759 yep, the ma-010 ma-020 & ma-030 all use the same rear ends so the tie rod is universally compatible on the stock rear end that comes with the chassis.
@BMR 3 Thank you so much BMR. You have the best videos out there right now for upgrades on these drift kyoshos it can be very confusing on all of this and I would drive myself crazy trying to figure this all out!
What part numbers
Thanks for the video man, nice sharing. Do you have any clue about the brand that sell alumunium front knuckle for MA020 that still available right now? Because i can't find any of it.
Enlighten Photography I’m looking at getting Eagle Racing front camber knuckles, they have 0-3 degree. Here is a link to the zero degree, they are in stock and you can search the website for more MA-020 parts. www.broadtech.hk/eagleshop/shop/ShopProductDetail.aspx?id=MA20VE-29-0
Thank you so much man! Really appreciate it 🙏
Enlighten Photography Anytime buddy, I’m happy to help! I honestly recommend ordering ASAP, thanks for asking the question since it caused me to check their website & I did not realize how low the stock is on some of the MA-020 parts. I just placed my order yesterday
Done, Just finished my purchase on 0 degrees. I've been looking for this front alu knuckle for awhile since my stock knuckle seems to have some kind of white plastic stress mark (i'm not sure it's normal or not, because i'm a newbie on this mini rc stuff). Anyway, i'm glad that i found your awd mini z channel on youtube, because i kinda just started my mini z awd hobby and your videos really helping me so much 🙌
@@enlightenphotography7199 Nice, good call! I ordered the zero, 1, 2, & 3 degree knuckles, front arms, pins, springs, upper & lower plates, basically a full EA front end minus the differential & swing arms. I will be going over all the parts & weighing them against the stock plastic parts for comparison.
I may try their front one way in the future, but for now i will stick to Kyosho & I dont like the design of their swing arms since they use an 0-ring.
What size toe in and knuckles did you use here?
Same settings as stock, 0.5 toe & 0.5 camber in the rear
Can you adjust stance on mini z?
Yeah to a degree. You can adjust the ride height & move the body mounts on an autoscale(this is difficult since the mounts are glued in, but not impossible) & you can either shim or shave the front mounting clip.
@@BMR3 ok, ill maybye try sometime
Start with simple shims & go from there. Only issue is the suspension dosent have a whole lot of travel so you might need to try more extreme measures to get the desired stance. Hope this helps & good luck with your build!
Stop telling people to use threadlocker on screws going into plastic. You should never do that. It eats the plastic.
Had to learn that lesson the hard way & it’s the reason I did the SP chassis swap video series. I tell people to NOT use thread locker in future videos.