I have a 68 very similar to this. Usually those ground plates are soldered to the chassis on one side. I did a sound test with the snubber caps connected and disconnected on the 6L6's and it seemed like it killed the "ice" pick highs associated with the silverface models when I kept it in. I was surprised. Mine was kind of a blend between an AB763 and an AB568
I have a 1965 Bandmaster that has those gold filter caps. I have had the amp to my tech and he checked everything. Surprisingly the caps are still good. i keep a very close eye on them, check them every couple months. Amp sounds glorious, zero noise, no leakage
I have a 69 that I blackfaced and separated the cathodes of V1-V2 to give each channel a unique voice. It has two Weber Signature Alnico speakers and two original speakers. I don’t plan on parting ways with it.
I have a 69 as well. I had to change the balance to bias and remove to cathode resistors from the power tubes to make it work properly. It is a monster. From clean to crunch. They take pedals very well. Great amp!
Pontiac GTO or a ‘69 Maytag dryer, and have it come back to you in not just a serviceable condition, but in better-than-new condition. That’s a great skill you have, Charlie.
There aren’t many places in my world-and likely in the world at large- where you can take a piece of equipment, whether a ‘69 Fender amp or a ‘69 GTO or a ‘69
I just found your channel and this video. I just got a 1969 Bandmaster Reverb with the hybrid fixed/cathode bias circuit. Is there anything inherently wrong with that circuit, other than not having a bias adjustment pot? I plan to keep the output tube matching pot and add a bias trim pot in series with the bias resistor. My 1968 Bassman also has a similar circuit. Thankfully my 1969 Super Reverb has the AA1069 circuit, but still no bias adjustment pot.
These were the amps that began that "silverface" stigma. The circuit is not "bad" just different. Some did not like change. It is all in what you like, BF, SF whichever. I prefer the bias of the former amps, however adding a proper balance pot is useful. Hope you have found the channel useful, and thanks for checking it out.
@@guitarc.p.r.9675 I recapped the amp, changed the doghouse resistors and bias resistor and diode and added a bias trim pot, and the amp sounds pretty good to me thru a 4 x 10 Weber alnico cab I built last year. Dead quiet.
You do such great work! Really appreciate the amount of detail you put into this rebuild and video. I was actually searching RUclips to get an idea of whats wrong with my amp and am now thinking I should just have it rebuilt. Mine is a 1969 Fender Super Reverb Silver Face. Would you consider working on mine?
@@guitarc.p.r.9675 That’s good to hear! I searched your shop and it looks like you’re located in WV? I’m in California, and am unsure if it would be a viable option for me to send the amp to you given the high price of paying for shipping costs... might have to find someone more local unfortunately
I got a 1968 Super Reverb I never powered it on when I got it and first thing I did was replace the power cord with a 3 prong. It is lighting up but The GZ34 is not glowing at all and no sound is coming out of the Amp whatsoever not even hum. I was told from a few people it could be a Transformer. What would you suggest?
Sounds like it is broke.... :) Transformer could be a problem, but it takes a lot of stupid to damage a Fender Power transformer. Make sure it does not have an oversized fuse in it FIRST thing. You have not given me much info to work with. If your GZ34 lights up (Tube should not glow) the 5 volt heater is working so that voltage is there. If your pilot light and other tubes are lit, your 6 volt heater voltage is there. Next voltage in question is the Main B+ you should have about 350 v AC on pins 4 and 6 of the rectifier tube. If you have no DC voltage of around 440 volts on pin 8 chances are the GZ34 is bad. Use caution here, many things up stream could have damaged the rectifier tube. If this voltage is present the standby switch or choke may have failed. That is the short answer. But I am just guessing. You may want to see a competent tech.
I have a 68 very similar to this. Usually those ground plates are soldered to the chassis on one side. I did a sound test with the snubber caps connected and disconnected on the 6L6's and it seemed like it killed the "ice" pick highs associated with the silverface models when I kept it in. I was surprised. Mine was kind of a blend between an AB763 and an AB568
I have a 1965 Bandmaster that has those gold filter caps. I have had the amp to my tech and he checked everything. Surprisingly the caps are still good. i keep a very close eye on them, check them every couple months. Amp sounds glorious, zero noise, no leakage
I find more good caps in the Older Fenders than the later Silverface models. Keep your fingers crossed.
Another top notch amp service! I bet it sounds great.
Thats one clean looking amp
I run across a few things like that occasionally.
very nice.
Thanks a lot
I have a 69 that I blackfaced and separated the cathodes of V1-V2 to give each channel a unique voice. It has two Weber Signature Alnico speakers and two original speakers. I don’t plan on parting ways with it.
I have a 69 as well. I had to change the balance to bias and remove to cathode resistors from the power tubes to make it work properly. It is a monster. From clean to crunch. They take pedals very well. Great amp!
Ooooh! A drip edge!
Wow that amp was clean. Glad to see the riddance of the carbon comp resistors. Treat yourself to a few glasses or a bottle of wine...
or a nap!
Pontiac GTO or a ‘69 Maytag dryer, and have it come back to you in not just a serviceable condition, but in better-than-new condition.
That’s a great skill you have, Charlie.
Just thought I would show what goes into straightening one out. Thanks Joe.
Amazing. Thx.
There aren’t many places in my world-and likely in the world at large- where you can take a piece of equipment, whether a ‘69 Fender amp or a ‘69 GTO or a ‘69
I just found your channel and this video. I just got a 1969 Bandmaster Reverb with the hybrid fixed/cathode bias circuit. Is there anything inherently wrong with that circuit, other than not having a bias adjustment pot? I plan to keep the output tube matching pot and add a bias trim pot in series with the bias resistor. My 1968 Bassman also has a similar circuit. Thankfully my 1969 Super Reverb has the AA1069 circuit, but still no bias adjustment pot.
These were the amps that began that "silverface" stigma. The circuit is not "bad" just different. Some did not like change. It is all in what you like, BF, SF whichever. I prefer the bias of the former amps, however adding a proper balance pot is useful. Hope you have found the channel useful, and thanks for checking it out.
@@guitarc.p.r.9675 I recapped the amp, changed the doghouse resistors and bias resistor and diode and added a bias trim pot, and the amp sounds pretty good to me thru a 4 x 10 Weber alnico cab I built last year. Dead quiet.
You do such great work! Really appreciate the amount of detail you put into this rebuild and video. I was actually searching RUclips to get an idea of whats wrong with my amp and am now thinking I should just have it rebuilt. Mine is a 1969 Fender Super Reverb Silver Face. Would you consider working on mine?
ABSOLUTELY. Anything short of what I did usually results in the amp coming back. I am always busy but contact me.
@@guitarc.p.r.9675 That’s good to hear! I searched your shop and it looks like you’re located in WV? I’m in California, and am unsure if it would be a viable option for me to send the amp to you given the high price of paying for shipping costs... might have to find someone more local unfortunately
Unfortunately not everyone can live in WV! :)
I got a 1968 Super Reverb I never powered it on when I got it and first thing I did was replace the power cord with a 3 prong. It is lighting up but The GZ34 is not glowing at all and no sound is coming out of the Amp whatsoever not even hum. I was told from a few people it could be a Transformer. What would you suggest?
Sounds like it is broke.... :) Transformer could be a problem, but it takes a lot of stupid to damage a Fender Power transformer. Make sure it does not have an oversized fuse in it FIRST thing. You have not given me much info to work with. If your GZ34 lights up (Tube should not glow) the 5 volt heater is working so that voltage is there. If your pilot light and other tubes are lit, your 6 volt heater voltage is there. Next voltage in question is the Main B+ you should have about 350 v AC on pins 4 and 6 of the rectifier tube. If you have no DC voltage of around 440 volts on pin 8 chances are the GZ34 is bad. Use caution here, many things up stream could have damaged the rectifier tube. If this voltage is present the standby switch or choke may have failed. That is the short answer. But I am just guessing. You may want to see a competent tech.
lol @ pile of debris