Have a Deluxe I bought from a friend for $125 in 1990, and he’d paid that when he found it in a pawn shop. Have been playing it for years and never had to do one thing to it. Finally I decided it needed an overhaul about 2 years ago, and the tech who worked on it freaked. All original, point to point wiring, original footswitch, and told me it was from 68/69, and if I ever wanted to sell it, call him first. The “reissues” have PC boards. Gimme old school any day of the week-nothing like vintage tube tone. Subbed!
Matthew Scott Pawn shop scores were the best back in the day when pawnbrokers didn’t know what they had and were just glad to get their money out of it. I snagged a 1980 (year I graduated HS) Fender Precision Special for $350 in 1990 and still play it because it THUNDERS. Weighs twice what the new ones weigh (boat anchor!) but 10 times the tone. It becomes “vintage” next year. Great to see you young whippersnapper types keeping guitar music alive. Rock on!
Silverfaces are my favorite Fenders. I appreciate them for their clean tone. For overdrive, that's what a 1971 Marshall Super Lead is for. CHANGE those electrolytics. it's a miracle they haven't blown their guts already. They've GOT to go and they could easily be responsible for the distortion in the bass. And if they should completely fail, they can take out the transformers.
I have used Aleen's TACKY GLUE to repair small tears on cones. It is a rubbery glue that says flexible when cured. It is sold where craft supplies are sold, hobby stores, Walmart carries it.
So rad to see you go from 8k to 30k so quick. Seems like 2 or 3 years ago and found your channel. Last year and this year has been great for you. Keep it up
the 2 taped off yellow wires would go to your rectifier tube socket. They provide 5vDC for the heaters. Taped off because they're using the SS module in that socket.
I have a 68 Champ drip edge that I adore.It is actually closer to the Blackface circuit....Glad to see you are careful around the caps...A lot of rookies need to be told about the dangers of messing with old amps.Love your Channel...keep it up!
I would use some contact cement... i use weldwood brand that you can find at any Lowe’s or Home Depot.. (I also use it to dope the cones of my old speakers to strengthen them slightly) it stays flexible and will stay in place.. I would use a small “acid brush” and put a layer of contact cement around the hole being very careful to not get any down in to the voice coil and then place the dust cap in place.. let it dry for a couple hours and rock on!
There is no such thing as an AB763 transformer as far as I know. The transformers used were the same between the blackface and silverface units, and only substituted a different tube rectifier.
Really easy to reattach the cone using 3M Auto Black Super Weatherstrip Adhesive. This is a an adhesive that forms a rubbery bond so the cone is not only held firmly in place but flexes. There is a RUclips video on the process too. Hope this helps, I did use this on my HiFi speakers and it works really well.
I have repaired a number of vintage amps. Try the speaker as is minus the coil cover. It may be harsh tone was the loose cover against the speaker. If its better I would carefully glue the cover back on. If its still bad check the ohms and gently with even pressure move the paper cone and listen for voice coil rubbing. I have one of the 1st fullerton made 50s reissue strats and its interesting to see and hear your originals for comparison.
Hey Matthew, it appears that no-one actually answered your question, so I will quickly go through it for you or your viewers. The first thing to look at is the tube chart, which is the white label on the right hand side of the cabinet, looking from the back. It will say AB568 (silverface), or AB763 (blackface). Leo Fender sometimes threw the old labels on the newer circuits, just to use them up. Internally, I can spot grid caps on each power tube socket, a bias balance circuit, and 47k plate resistors on the phase inverter. This means that it is a silverface circuit. I might also see new ground wires from the power tube lugs, and I would bet these replaced the resistors that were put in place here on the silverface circuit. All evidence points to Silverface, therefore. Just in regards to safety, I always like to assume I'm talking to the least experienced person out there. Steps to follow for the amateur: Have the amp plugged in and powered on. Turn it off with the POWER SWITCH ONLY, keeping the standby switch in the play/on position (This will drain the caps). Leave the amp plugged in for a few minutes to drain residual voltage (keeps the ground connected - if the amp has grounded chassis). Unplug the amp! Yes! sometimes people forget and need to be reminded. Then go ahead and pull the chassis. You should still be careful of residual charges in capacitors, and know exactly where the high voltage potential lies before you poke around with anything in the chassis, even wood. Amps like this have 475 ish volts in some places, and it hurts a heck of a lot more than 120 volts when you get bit.
Matthew Great info, especially the dangerous part of an amp. That white wire is puzzling. Imo, re tube and capacitors., Three pronged plug. As it sits, I thought it was a lil bright. Bob
That is a really, really nice Super. I dig silverface amps, myself. Those Philips branded are probably Sylvanias if they're US made. There's been some work in that amp, but there needs to be more. Original is cool, but electrolytics are not forever. Those filter caps especially need to go.
Speaker Repair you take 100-200 grit metal sandpaper.. and you take a 1 to 1 1/2 in strip and slide between the voice coil and the magnet.. .. it won't damage the voice coil because the small wires around it are on the other side.. this works often.. because a bit of corrosion ends up ther and the magnet touches the voice coil..you'll be surprised hot often it repairs it..
At 5:01 you get a good shot showing the huge solder lugs that would (most likely) have been wear the huge resistors would be in a 768 circuit, with them removed I would assume the other changes are present to make it "blackface". The solder lug is a lot farther than it should be on a 763 because those resistors are so big in the original 768. At the end of the day, who cares unless you are collecting. It sounds killer and your playing is killer
Looks like you need a power rail cap job immediately. But you also need to ditch the crappy signal caps too as well as the old bypass caps......so it need a full overhaul and rebuild even though it works.....and then black face it in process. Use a 5U4 rectifier tube instead of that solid state rectifier...and get the Sprague power caps for the power rail caps. I'd offer my services, but I'm not local. I'm located in Pittsburgh so there would be shipping costs involved. But you'd love what I can do with it......I've been doing service for almost 40 years. I wouldn't need the whole amp....just the chassis and tubes, for service. Obviously its best to replace the power tubes as you don't know if they are matched or how many hours they have on them.....even though they might be ok. The pre-amp tubes depending on what you have....you might want a couple for better performance and tone. That's usually my last step is tuning in the amp once its rehab'd...selecting the right tubes for the particular positions. But if I do it.....you'd end up with a "super" super reverb like you never heard before
I can direct you to a client of mine that posts to youtube…...and his recent posting is my work......the amplifiers are all me along with his wah…..he supplies the talent. Look up : ZACK WIESINGER = GUITAR FUN TIME
I have been overhauling his amplifiers over the past year, and the posting is a combination of a super reverb that's been modified by me which he lays flat on its back on the floor in front of him.....and he uses a bf Princeton facing him that I modified. But in his stage set up....he uses 4 to 5 amps in an array, and I had to build him a distribution box and buffer amp pre-amp so he didn't loose gain or signal running all the amps together. My client truly channels Jimi Hendrix.....he has maybe 10= years of postings on youtube...check him out. SO most of the recent posting within the last 2 years are my work with his amplifiers
I know this is an old post, but people are still reading, so I must express my difference of opinion. A 5U4 rectifier draws about 50% more heater current than a GZ34/5AR4, so I would never use that one in an application with a vintage power transformer. The GZ34 offers a slow start-up current flow, and more voltage to the plates, for a cleaner tone that people want in Fenders. It's far more reliable than a 5U4 and was the spec for the blackface circuit. Again, sorry to call you out on this, but people are reading, so...
@@cloudconnect No you are wrong because they used the same power transformer where the "spec" was either rectifier tube...depending when it was issued. The power transformers are over designed and not running at the fringe where it would be critical. PLUS being that they used both with the same power transformer, you are not aware of factory service bulletins that went out to dealers and "authorized" service facilities, they issued a change from the GZ-34's back to the 5U4's to drop the plate voltages.......but that never reached every amplifier as it was issued as a recall notice. Just when the amps came in to be serviced. They were technically suppose to strike the cabinet sticker for the tube chart and note it there when the application happened. When you look at a schematic, the numbers and them as a reference on the paper, were for that particular amp they used to draft that paper in that moment of time....and peculiar to the tubes in it in the moment. There are manual that come with bias probe devices where they sampled amplifiers for reference and its used as a suggestion for the bias device. The amplifiers they sampled, again, were peculiar to the tubes in the moment. SO the figures are just all crap. You should never use those "spec's" You bias to the particular tube in the moment and bias to 70%. The Groove Tubes standard was to grade tubes and then match them......which spread across the industry. Biasing has nothing to do with that other than if you had a bunch of random tubes you could eventually find a pair if its a 2 power tube amp and where they would both be within a reasonable balance when measuring the bias current draw on each tube......and you could even really get lucky and find a very balanced pair out of the random tubes. The grading factor deals with how the tubes tend to saturate and break up while in service. One end of the range was an early break up & saturation where they get juicy, and the opposite end of the range is where the tubes stayed clean longer before maxing out into saturation & break up. SO you need to understand the application as to the performance relative to how you play and what you'd want in the performance aspect.....if you are playing down and dirty blues.....you'd want early saturation & break up and the juice as opposed to staying clean way on up dialing up. >>>>>>BUT you also have to understand tubes. I come from a back ground where my father was an RCA dealer and thus we used RCA products, and hence using RCA tubes...you referred to the RCA data books for RCA tubes. If you used GE tubes, you'd refer to the GE tube data books. Every manufacturer issued their own tube data books. Generically they were all similar, but it would be like using a chevy manual to apply to a ford.....you just wouldn't do that in practicality even though in the gross sense they would BOTH be cars with 4 wheels and motors and transmissions. Hence looking at a Fender schematic and the numbers and values....are NOT the "spec's" you'd use when applying tubes to the amplifier, you have to use the tube manufacturer's specs from the tube data book for that tube manufacturer you are using to tube up the amplifier. SO its not a point of getting higher plate voltages because of the Fender numbers on the schematic for plate voltages.....the plate voltages are affected by the power rail and hence the rectifier tube and the BIAS setting !! SO in the case of RCA power tubes...6L6's, the RCA book has them at 400 volts on the plates as the target voltage as maximum voltage, and there is a screen voltage reference.....and the heater voltage reference. These were all for optimum performance from the RCA tubes for reliability and longevity. TUBES are like incandescent light bulbs of the day....rated in hours for life span......because the technology of the heater filaments is similar. Fender in the tweed era and 50's ran the amps per the tube manufacturer's date book spec's. BUT in the tolex era they ran up the amplifier operations over the manufacturer's data book spec's, playing a numbers game to inflate power output numbers as a marketing ploy. They didn't want to deal with warranty issues and tube issues and pre-mature failures causing warranty claims and thus costing the company money to cover the failures. Fender amplifiers were NOT PERFECT nor flawlessly manufactured.....hence they issued service bulletins when they discovered flaws that needed correction......you just don't hear about that end of things as its not mentioned in any guitar publications. ALL tube will draw their highest draw on start up and if there is a flaw in the heater circuitry of the tubes...it will cause HEATER FLASH, but that is why the power transformers are OVER DESIGNED. Heater flash is a momentary situation on start up and NOT something you would want to be happening in a tube. BUT you can run the tube till it burns out.....but it technically wouldn't necessarily last its rated life span. Fender issued the 5U4 service bulletin to bring down the power rail voltage for tube life as to bring them all down toward the manufacturer's tube data book specifications, considering a proper bias situation !
The difference in power transformers is relative to the heater wires and if there are 2 or 3 wires coming out of the transformer. THE 3RD WIRE WOULD BE THE GROUND REFERENCE and thus grounded. If its 2 wires, then it would have the 2 100ohm resistors running off the 2 wires to ground at or near the pilot lamp on the chassis. The 2 100 ohm resistors would act sort of like fuses. I usually don't find them burned, but I often find them physically broken....the body of the resistors cracked !!! Later Fender amps used a balance pot as a substitute for the 2 100 ohms resistors that functioned the same way but being a pot, they labeled the control as a HUM BALANCE control......which was to compensate for tubes in the later era as they were technically obsolete in the grand scheme of the electronics industry and the manufacturing lines were not being maintained properly as they were being phased out as they wore out or broke down from lack of proper maintenance......they were no longer supporting the vacuum tube technology in favor of solid state as it was the direction of the industry. Just as today, through hole technology is giving way to surface mount technology and through hole is being obsoleted.
Those Philips 6L6 tubes are exactly why that amp sounds so Good. NOS Philips ( new old stock ) those tubes are selling for well over 100 bucks a piece. Looked like green lettering which if I remember correctly predates the purchase of Sylvania. Philips is a great German tube company. About the only 2 other Brands better than Philips in the NOS tube category would be Telefunkten or RCA black plates. Tung-Sol is pretty sweet as well. Tung-Sol reissue would be great in this Amp if your not looking to spend a fortune. They break up a little early and get a fatter sound the harder you play and the more you crank your amp. Research vintage tubes a bit. They are getting harder to find so the price is going up. Those Philips tubes you have even though they are used are worth about $70 bucks each. Have fun with that beast.
Nice! My Father builds & services amps. The old Fenders are his specialty...he knows them inside & out. Should see a couple of the ones he has at the house he restored, came out awesome! Check him out at Munder Amplification in Texas. He also builds pedals. Love watching your vids man keep it up!
That looks like maybe an AB568 circuit that’s been worked on. It looks like it has the 2000pf caps coming off of each of the output tubes, but not the blocky 150 ohm ceramic resistors in the same area. Also, I think there was a chassis mark written that ended in 69, which could be indicative of the final assembly date.
You can use liquid tape...get black color.....to remount the dust cap on the cone center.....don't get any in the voice coil area. put the cap on and use the brush on the outside and go around it lightly first and watch your margin with the goo. You might be better off using a painting type brush rather than the jar brush on the cap......the fine type brush for artists that paint...as a painting brush. Use several coats as it drys thin....let it dry awhile before a second coat....once you get the hang of the liquid tape. Its great for cone holes and tears as its flexible and with a fine point artist brush you can really concentrate a fine line for repairs or sticking a tear together.
liquid tape is used for tool handles or electrical insulation.....sold at major hardware stores and Walmart.....probably cheaper at Walmart. Once you crack the jar open make sure you seal it tight as the solvent that makes is liquid tends to evaporate off fast and it gets thicker in viscosity.....but stored.....it does tend to evap out and eventually dry up with the lid on...with age
That dust cover could just be reglued very easily, and could cause rattle noises. If there's more like weird ghost notes and things, it could be a rubbing voice coil. But I'd try regluing the cap first. It's easy. A few dots of glue of almost any kind, but go light rather than goopy.
my suggestion to you is there is a channel with a guy named uncle doug.i suggest that you watch some of uncle dougs videos he is an expert with tube amps.type in uncle doug it should take you to his home page with the videos.i own an original 1968 fender deluxe reverb and i have asked him questions and he has always responded.i strongly suggest that you check out uncle doug before really getting into tearing that thing apart.
Very clean amp- last of the cloth wires. Just my 2 cents- nothing wrong with the brown signal caps if they haven’t drifted. The bias balance circuit I would suggest converting to standard bias adjust-
Hi Matthew, great video. I really enjoy all your videos. I recently was given this same amp from a family friend as part of an estate. My friend's husband was a musician and collector and I helped find homes for all the gear. My friend was nice enough to give me this amp. I believe it is all original down to the two prong plug. I had a Amp tech give it a quick look over (did not take it apart) and he believes the tubes and speakers are even original. Do you usually keep the two prong plugs on your amps? I know it would be safer to have the plug changed. I just hate to change anything. It plays and sounds great aa is. Thanks!
one more comment the blue capsule caps are original to the amp looks like you have 2 left.to me it looks like a lot has been replaced again uncle doug is the man
Awesome video man, was wondering if you would try out a fender cybertwin amp haha alot of people say it's not a good amp but I set mines to a nice clean sound.... I play country and probably somewhat blues/rock haha but mainly country, n the amp I have is a great amp if you put time into setting your sound on it man it does the job and the line out it amazing sends the sound straight to the mixer haha but again would you try one out haha I'm a new subscriber haha good videos man and you have some amazing guitars and amps keep it up 👍
The parts, including the can, that have dates can be leftover stock from the previous year. The best way to date these is the tag on the inside right of the speaker cabinet. I seem to remember that the ones that have the blackface circuit have the vertical lines on the face. Which is why I am guessing it is a 69. If it isn't a AB763 circuit it could be converted very easily. I will go look up the code on the paper tag. Be right back. Fender Tube amp codes: 1953-1970 - (look for a 2 letter code stamped on the tube chart inside the back of the amp)- the first letter is the year, and the second letter is the month. An amp stamped NA would have been made in Jan. of 1964. Here is a list of the first letter showing the year of manufacture. These codes have nothing to do with the serial number that is stamped on the right rear of the chassis - Those numbers are posted below. A=1951, B=1952, C=1953, D=1954, E=1955, F=1956, G=1957, H=1958, I=1959, J=1960, K=1961, L=1962, M=1963, N=1964, O=1965, P=1966, Q=1967,R=1968, S=1969, T=1970 A=Jan, B=Feb, C=Mar, D=Apr, E=May, F=Jun, G=Jul, H=Aug, I=Sep, J=Oct, K=Nov, & L=Dec
I love it when you point out the potential safety hazards, your chopstick pointer rocks! I wonder how the current Fender re-issue combo amps compare as far as potential safety hazards and heat buildup? What are your thoughts about putting a small fan behind your combo amp while you play? What can be done about the harsh sound? I had a 70s twin reverb, I tried replacing all the tubes I could get off of Musician's Friend, which helped slightly. I guess the only other thing would be to try to get more powerful speakers with the same ohms, I don't know.
GCKelloch , OK, I ordered the 6 foot and 10 foot G1 from Musician's Friend, that's where the Rapco website offered to take me to buy it. I guess these are balanced guitar cables, the typical guitar cable is unbalanced, as I understand it. I guess it will be OK to use these G1 cables as my normal guitar cable for any guitar and guitar amplifier. Thanks for the tube advice, my ex best friend actually has my old fender twin reverb, it's not worth the old hassles to stir up right now, so I'm shopping for a brand new re-issue instead. I'm leaning towards a brand new 59 bassman reissue. I noticed that the fender.com website has this Bassman 59 combo amp listed under guitar not under bass. Is it safe to play a bass guitar through this 59 bassman Reissue? Is it just common knowledge? when I was a kid we screwed up a couple of solid state practice amps by playing bass guitars through them. That's part of the reason I'm choosing to buy a brand new 59 Bassman Reissue, If it maybe gives me the flexibility to play a bass guitar through it on occasion, without risking permanent damage. My second choice would be a brand new re-issue of the 65 super reverb. I originally thought I was going to buy a brand new fender 65 reissue twin reverb this year, which is 85 watts, double the wattage Than the Super or the Bassman reissues. From watching RUclips videos elsewhere, the current trendy thing to do seems to be lower wattage for easier recording volumes and living room playing volumes. Maybe the public is getting old and likes it quieter? I'm getting old too, So I can't knock it. The reissue fender Super Reverb and the 59 Bassman are both 2 ohm outputs, Which I think the lower the ohm output, the cleaner sound. So the twin reverb re-issue has a 4 ohm output, so not as clean, but it's a trade off for half the wattage but double the clean sound, I think?
@@GCKelloch , After a few dead ends, here is the best link I found for RapcoHorizon.com: www.rapcohorizon.com/product/165/g1-inst-14-14 They do not sell from this website, instead I had to click on “Buy from Dealer” and it offered 5 choices, so I was most familiar with Musician’s Friend: www.musiciansfriend.com/accessories/rapco-horizon-standard-guitar-cable/336010000000154?src=3xvbn01#productDetail First I did 10’, then repeated the steps for the 6’. I don’t like it that the Musician’s Friend web page did not call it G1, but this was the link from RapcoHorizon. I am sorry that I mentioned balanced/unbalanced. I thought I saw it mentioned during my RapcoHorizon search, maybe for their studio cables. Now I do not see it on these two web pages.
I feel like if you sent this Super Reverb to Brad/The Guitologist, he might be able to help you out. He's done quite a few Fenders, Marshall's and various other amps before, so his experience could come in handy in regards to where to go with the amp. Killer video as always, Matthew!
I had someone work on my 68 twin, wish I left it alone. It’s was the best sounding amp before they butchered it. I asked them not to touch the circuit board, I know for sure they changed some capacitors.
There is a saying in the amp world that an amp sometimes sounds the best right before it is about to die. I think you have to trust your tech, but always get an explanation as to what was done, so that you can question it yourself, or get a second opinion.
The 606 numbers on your transformers indicates Schumacher ,most all fenders have them as stock.And shit can all the caps.Put metalfilm resistors where needed on your output tubes.You should be good to go after that.My brother bought a 67,those amps are awesome.Same time I got a 65 Twin,wanted a pedal amp.A lot heavier than my old Deluxe Reverb.But worth it.😎🎸👍
I have a 68 or 69 im in the process of restoring. I was curious on how this would sound with a heavy metal distortion pedal. (Blasphemy I know) but just curious as a mostly metal player.
As for gluing the dust cap back on the speaker, that's easy. Just use Elmer's white glue. No need to use epoxy or anything like that. Do a neat job, though.
If i remember correctly one of the reasons the 68 is desirable is because it has the exact same circuit as the 63 to 67 circuit ab763 black face... only difference is the cosmetics really
yeah interesting you should use tung sols for the preamp tubes and JJs for the power tubes....you wont be dissapointed..groove tubes are rubbish...also get your amp tech to make sure the voltage to power tubes is good and high...most fender amps are set a little on the low side to make the tubes last longer..
Agree that Tung Sol makes great 12AX7 and JJ for power tubes. I also dislike JJ preamp tubes for character, but they are reliable. Have to disagree on the GrooveTubes generalization. They are rebranders, meaning you could have Chinese, Russian, or even some very good quality NOS tubes with GT labels on them.
You can glue that dust cap back in. It won't hurt.You should use this adhesive though- www.simplyspeakers.com/speaker-repair-adhesive-mi-2000.html You may just want to order up some new speakers and pull the originals and set those aside in case you sell it down the road. Weber, Warehouse and Eminence make some great replacements.
Your amp has been serviced in the past. Oddly enough it has not been recapped at all. All the electrolytic caps are original except for the bias capacitor. Kind of unusual.... Also 2 capacitors have been changed for Orange Drops. You can just use some superglue and very carefully put the dust cap back on the speaker. It’s there only to prevent any dust or particules to get in between the voice coil and the magnets. That would be very bad and would permanently damage it.
All the light tan and white caps (electrolytic) should be changed. The brown (turd) caps should not, unless verified bad. All from my ’71 DR test perfect regarding value and leakage. (Don’t believe the internet folklore on them.) The orange drops are not original. If you place the “ground” switch in the middle you should not get shocked, although maybe it has no middle setting? It should actually be disconnected and a proper 3-prong cord installed and death cap removed. I don’t see the resistors on the output cathodes so it is the “BF style.” Screen resistors look changed. I see the grid-to-ground caps on the output tubes which are considered tone-suckers (quasi folklore) and reduce the risk of oscillation. I would leave them since you have plenty of high end. The unused wires off the power tranny are the 5volts for the tube rectifier that someone replaced. I would convert back after verifying the winding is ok unless you prefer zero “sag” at high volume.
This is some good advise right here. Only thing I would vary on is to remove the grid-to ground caps on one end only, as the final step in the blackfacing process. If the amp doesn't have oscillation issues, take them all the way out. If it does emit some squealing at high volumes, then re-attach the end you unsoldered. This is amp tech work, though.
That little intro was literally the best tone I had ever heard.
Have a Deluxe I bought from a friend for $125 in 1990, and he’d paid that when he found it in a pawn shop. Have been playing it for years and never had to do one thing to it. Finally I decided it needed an overhaul about 2 years ago, and the tech who worked on it freaked. All original, point to point wiring, original footswitch, and told me it was from 68/69, and if I ever wanted to sell it, call him first.
The “reissues” have PC boards.
Gimme old school any day of the week-nothing like vintage tube tone. Subbed!
That's so cool man
Matthew Scott Pawn shop scores were the best back in the day when pawnbrokers didn’t know what they had and were just glad to get their money out of it. I snagged a 1980 (year I graduated HS) Fender Precision Special for $350 in 1990 and still play it because it THUNDERS. Weighs twice what the new ones weigh (boat anchor!) but 10 times the tone. It becomes “vintage” next year. Great to see you young whippersnapper types keeping guitar music alive. Rock on!
Silverfaces are my favorite Fenders. I appreciate them for their clean tone. For overdrive, that's what a 1971 Marshall Super Lead is for.
CHANGE those electrolytics. it's a miracle they haven't blown their guts already. They've GOT to go and they could easily be responsible for the distortion in the bass. And if they should completely fail, they can take out the transformers.
I have used Aleen's TACKY GLUE to repair small tears on cones. It is a rubbery glue that says flexible when cured. It is sold where craft supplies are sold, hobby stores, Walmart carries it.
Uncle Doug is the channel you have to watch! He has a recone video and a 'dogs house' replacement. Guitologist also has a 'doug house' repair.
doug should be installed as a national treasure... seriously!!
He's amazing!!
Be careful with the 6L6 the Bear trap tube retainers , press them in to relieve the 6L6.. Great videos!!! thank you for sharing!
Good point.. wasn't thinking
So rad to see you go from 8k to 30k so quick. Seems like 2 or 3 years ago and found your channel. Last year and this year has been great for you. Keep it up
It's been a great ride man
Comment aged like fine wine. Over 200k subscribers now!
Thanks for the geek out tour! I’ve got to get a hold of my dads ‘68 and compare
the 2 taped off yellow wires would go to your rectifier tube socket. They provide 5vDC for the heaters. Taped off because they're using the SS module in that socket.
I have a 68 Champ drip edge that I adore.It is actually closer to the Blackface circuit....Glad to see you are careful around the caps...A lot of rookies need to be told about the dangers of messing with old amps.Love your Channel...keep it up!
love it bro
I would use some contact cement... i use weldwood brand that you can find at any Lowe’s or Home Depot.. (I also use it to dope the cones of my old speakers to strengthen them slightly) it stays flexible and will stay in place.. I would use a small “acid brush” and put a layer of contact cement around the hole being very careful to not get any down in to the voice coil and then place the dust cap in place.. let it dry for a couple hours and rock on!
Thank you for another great video. I only get to see a closeup deep inside when you do it. I probably would get shocked.
Yeah Matt cool!!!!! My 1968 that I bought a month ago has the AB763 transformer and blackface circuit in it,you got a really clean amp there man!!!
There is no such thing as an AB763 transformer as far as I know. The transformers used were the same between the blackface and silverface units, and only substituted a different tube rectifier.
Informative as usual. Sound like a trip to the amp doctor is in your future. Good luck with your band. You are really good. Cheers.
Great stuff, mate. Stoked to see how that amp turns out once you've fiddled with it.
Thanks for sharing, dude.
Cheers
u will have to make sure voice coil isnt rubbing and if not speaker is still good and yes it can be re glued back in
Really easy to reattach the cone using 3M Auto Black Super Weatherstrip Adhesive. This is a an adhesive that forms a rubbery bond so the cone is not only held firmly in place but flexes. There is a RUclips video on the process too. Hope this helps, I did use this on my HiFi speakers and it works really well.
I have repaired a number of vintage amps. Try the speaker as is minus the coil cover. It may be harsh tone was the loose cover against the speaker. If its better I would carefully glue the cover back on. If its still bad check the ohms and gently with even pressure move the paper cone and listen for voice coil rubbing. I have one of the 1st fullerton made 50s reissue strats and its interesting to see and hear your originals for comparison.
I have a minty 67 SR. Those are deff the speakers to have.
Hey Matthew, it appears that no-one actually answered your question, so I will quickly go through it for you or your viewers. The first thing to look at is the tube chart, which is the white label on the right hand side of the cabinet, looking from the back. It will say AB568 (silverface), or AB763 (blackface). Leo Fender sometimes threw the old labels on the newer circuits, just to use them up. Internally, I can spot grid caps on each power tube socket, a bias balance circuit, and 47k plate resistors on the phase inverter. This means that it is a silverface circuit. I might also see new ground wires from the power tube lugs, and I would bet these replaced the resistors that were put in place here on the silverface circuit. All evidence points to Silverface, therefore.
Just in regards to safety, I always like to assume I'm talking to the least experienced person out there. Steps to follow for the amateur: Have the amp plugged in and powered on. Turn it off with the POWER SWITCH ONLY, keeping the standby switch in the play/on position (This will drain the caps). Leave the amp plugged in for a few minutes to drain residual voltage (keeps the ground connected - if the amp has grounded chassis). Unplug the amp! Yes! sometimes people forget and need to be reminded. Then go ahead and pull the chassis. You should still be careful of residual charges in capacitors, and know exactly where the high voltage potential lies before you poke around with anything in the chassis, even wood. Amps like this have 475 ish volts in some places, and it hurts a heck of a lot more than 120 volts when you get bit.
Matthew
Great info, especially the dangerous part of an amp.
That white wire is puzzling. Imo, re tube and capacitors.,
Three pronged plug. As it sits, I thought it was a lil bright.
Bob
That is a really, really nice Super. I dig silverface amps, myself. Those Philips branded are probably Sylvanias if they're US made. There's been some work in that amp, but there needs to be more. Original is cool, but electrolytics are not forever. Those filter caps especially need to go.
Great job
super cool
Speaker Repair
you take 100-200 grit metal sandpaper.. and you take a 1 to 1 1/2 in strip and slide between the voice coil and the magnet.. .. it won't damage the voice coil because the small wires around it are on the other side.. this works often.. because a bit of corrosion ends up ther and the magnet touches the voice coil..you'll be surprised hot often it repairs it..
At 5:01 you get a good shot showing the huge solder lugs that would (most likely) have been wear the huge resistors would be in a 768 circuit, with them removed I would assume the other changes are present to make it "blackface". The solder lug is a lot farther than it should be on a 763 because those resistors are so big in the original 768. At the end of the day, who cares unless you are collecting. It sounds killer and your playing is killer
Looks like you need a power rail cap job immediately. But you also need to ditch the crappy signal caps too as well as the old bypass caps......so it need a full overhaul and rebuild even though it works.....and then black face it in process. Use a 5U4 rectifier tube instead of that solid state rectifier...and get the Sprague power caps for the power rail caps. I'd offer my services, but I'm not local. I'm located in Pittsburgh so there would be shipping costs involved. But you'd love what I can do with it......I've been doing service for almost 40 years. I wouldn't need the whole amp....just the chassis and tubes, for service. Obviously its best to replace the power tubes as you don't know if they are matched or how many hours they have on them.....even though they might be ok. The pre-amp tubes depending on what you have....you might want a couple for better performance and tone. That's usually my last step is tuning in the amp once its rehab'd...selecting the right tubes for the particular positions. But if I do it.....you'd end up with a "super" super reverb like you never heard before
I can direct you to a client of mine that posts to youtube…...and his recent posting is my work......the amplifiers are all me along with his wah…..he supplies the talent. Look up : ZACK WIESINGER = GUITAR FUN TIME
I have been overhauling his amplifiers over the past year, and the posting is a combination of a super reverb that's been modified by me which he lays flat on its back on the floor in front of him.....and he uses a bf Princeton facing him that I modified. But in his stage set up....he uses 4 to 5 amps in an array, and I had to build him a distribution box and buffer amp pre-amp so he didn't loose gain or signal running all the amps together. My client truly channels Jimi Hendrix.....he has maybe 10= years of postings on youtube...check him out. SO most of the recent posting within the last 2 years are my work with his amplifiers
I know this is an old post, but people are still reading, so I must express my difference of opinion. A 5U4 rectifier draws about 50% more heater current than a GZ34/5AR4, so I would never use that one in an application with a vintage power transformer. The GZ34 offers a slow start-up current flow, and more voltage to the plates, for a cleaner tone that people want in Fenders. It's far more reliable than a 5U4 and was the spec for the blackface circuit. Again, sorry to call you out on this, but people are reading, so...
@@cloudconnect No you are wrong because they used the same power transformer where the "spec" was either rectifier tube...depending when it was issued. The power transformers are over designed and not running at the fringe where it would be critical. PLUS being that they used both with the same power transformer, you are not aware of factory service bulletins that went out to dealers and "authorized" service facilities, they issued a change from the GZ-34's back to the 5U4's to drop the plate voltages.......but that never reached every amplifier as it was issued as a recall notice. Just when the amps came in to be serviced. They were technically suppose to strike the cabinet sticker for the tube chart and note it there when the application happened. When you look at a schematic, the numbers and them as a reference on the paper, were for that particular amp they used to draft that paper in that moment of time....and peculiar to the tubes in it in the moment. There are manual that come with bias probe devices where they sampled amplifiers for reference and its used as a suggestion for the bias device. The amplifiers they sampled, again, were peculiar to the tubes in the moment. SO the figures are just all crap. You should never use those "spec's" You bias to the particular tube in the moment and bias to 70%. The Groove Tubes standard was to grade tubes and then match them......which spread across the industry. Biasing has nothing to do with that other than if you had a bunch of random tubes you could eventually find a pair if its a 2 power tube amp and where they would both be within a reasonable balance when measuring the bias current draw on each tube......and you could even really get lucky and find a very balanced pair out of the random tubes. The grading factor deals with how the tubes tend to saturate and break up while in service. One end of the range was an early break up & saturation where they get juicy, and the opposite end of the range is where the tubes stayed clean longer before maxing out into saturation & break up. SO you need to understand the application as to the performance relative to how you play and what you'd want in the performance aspect.....if you are playing down and dirty blues.....you'd want early saturation & break up and the juice as opposed to staying clean way on up dialing up. >>>>>>BUT you also have to understand tubes. I come from a back ground where my father was an RCA dealer and thus we used RCA products, and hence using RCA tubes...you referred to the RCA data books for RCA tubes. If you used GE tubes, you'd refer to the GE tube data books. Every manufacturer issued their own tube data books. Generically they were all similar, but it would be like using a chevy manual to apply to a ford.....you just wouldn't do that in practicality even though in the gross sense they would BOTH be cars with 4 wheels and motors and transmissions. Hence looking at a Fender schematic and the numbers and values....are NOT the "spec's" you'd use when applying tubes to the amplifier, you have to use the tube manufacturer's specs from the tube data book for that tube manufacturer you are using to tube up the amplifier. SO its not a point of getting higher plate voltages because of the Fender numbers on the schematic for plate voltages.....the plate voltages are affected by the power rail and hence the rectifier tube and the BIAS setting !! SO in the case of RCA power tubes...6L6's, the RCA book has them at 400 volts on the plates as the target voltage as maximum voltage, and there is a screen voltage reference.....and the heater voltage reference. These were all for optimum performance from the RCA tubes for reliability and longevity. TUBES are like incandescent light bulbs of the day....rated in hours for life span......because the technology of the heater filaments is similar. Fender in the tweed era and 50's ran the amps per the tube manufacturer's date book spec's. BUT in the tolex era they ran up the amplifier operations over the manufacturer's data book spec's, playing a numbers game to inflate power output numbers as a marketing ploy. They didn't want to deal with warranty issues and tube issues and pre-mature failures causing warranty claims and thus costing the company money to cover the failures. Fender amplifiers were NOT PERFECT nor flawlessly manufactured.....hence they issued service bulletins when they discovered flaws that needed correction......you just don't hear about that end of things as its not mentioned in any guitar publications. ALL tube will draw their highest draw on start up and if there is a flaw in the heater circuitry of the tubes...it will cause HEATER FLASH, but that is why the power transformers are OVER DESIGNED. Heater flash is a momentary situation on start up and NOT something you would want to be happening in a tube. BUT you can run the tube till it burns out.....but it technically wouldn't necessarily last its rated life span. Fender issued the 5U4 service bulletin to bring down the power rail voltage for tube life as to bring them all down toward the manufacturer's tube data book specifications, considering a proper bias situation !
The difference in power transformers is relative to the heater wires and if there are 2 or 3 wires coming out of the transformer. THE 3RD WIRE WOULD BE THE GROUND REFERENCE and thus grounded. If its 2 wires, then it would have the 2 100ohm resistors running off the 2 wires to ground at or near the pilot lamp on the chassis. The 2 100 ohm resistors would act sort of like fuses. I usually don't find them burned, but I often find them physically broken....the body of the resistors cracked !!! Later Fender amps used a balance pot as a substitute for the 2 100 ohms resistors that functioned the same way but being a pot, they labeled the control as a HUM BALANCE control......which was to compensate for tubes in the later era as they were technically obsolete in the grand scheme of the electronics industry and the manufacturing lines were not being maintained properly as they were being phased out as they wore out or broke down from lack of proper maintenance......they were no longer supporting the vacuum tube technology in favor of solid state as it was the direction of the industry. Just as today, through hole technology is giving way to surface mount technology and through hole is being obsoleted.
Those Philips 6L6 tubes are exactly why that amp sounds so Good. NOS Philips ( new old stock ) those tubes are selling for well over 100 bucks a piece. Looked like green lettering which if I remember correctly predates the purchase of Sylvania. Philips is a great German tube company. About the only 2 other Brands better than Philips in the NOS tube category would be Telefunkten or RCA black plates. Tung-Sol is pretty sweet as well. Tung-Sol reissue would be great in this Amp if your not looking to spend a fortune. They break up a little early and get a fatter sound the harder you play and the more you crank your amp. Research vintage tubes a bit. They are getting harder to find so the price is going up. Those Philips tubes you have even though they are used are worth about $70 bucks each. Have fun with that beast.
Nice! My Father builds & services amps. The old Fenders are his specialty...he knows them inside & out. Should see a couple of the ones he has at the house he restored, came out awesome! Check him out at Munder Amplification in Texas. He also builds pedals. Love watching your vids man keep it up!
That looks like maybe an AB568 circuit that’s been worked on. It looks like it has the 2000pf caps coming off of each of the output tubes, but not the blocky 150 ohm ceramic resistors in the same area.
Also, I think there was a chassis mark written that ended in 69, which could be indicative of the final assembly date.
Light glue on the cone and you'll be fine.That's a clean 68 on the inside.Cleaner than mine.Thanks for sharing.
That amp has been worked on.
You can use liquid tape...get black color.....to remount the dust cap on the cone center.....don't get any in the voice coil area. put the cap on and use the brush on the outside and go around it lightly first and watch your margin with the goo. You might be better off using a painting type brush rather than the jar brush on the cap......the fine type brush for artists that paint...as a painting brush. Use several coats as it drys thin....let it dry awhile before a second coat....once you get the hang of the liquid tape. Its great for cone holes and tears as its flexible and with a fine point artist brush you can really concentrate a fine line for repairs or sticking a tear together.
liquid tape is used for tool handles or electrical insulation.....sold at major hardware stores and Walmart.....probably cheaper at Walmart. Once you crack the jar open make sure you seal it tight as the solvent that makes is liquid tends to evaporate off fast and it gets thicker in viscosity.....but stored.....it does tend to evap out and eventually dry up with the lid on...with age
That dust cover could just be reglued very easily, and could cause rattle noises. If there's more like weird ghost notes and things, it could be a rubbing voice coil. But I'd try regluing the cap first. It's easy. A few dots of glue of almost any kind, but go light rather than goopy.
Matt, You can glue the dust cap back on. That was more than likely the noise you were hearing. Nice score btw !!
my suggestion to you is there is a channel with a guy named uncle doug.i suggest that you watch some of uncle dougs videos he is an expert with tube amps.type in uncle doug it should take you to his home page with the videos.i own an original 1968 fender deluxe reverb and i have asked him questions and he has always responded.i strongly suggest that you check out uncle doug before really getting into tearing that thing apart.
Very clean amp- last of the cloth wires. Just my 2 cents- nothing wrong with the brown signal caps if they haven’t drifted. The bias balance circuit I would suggest converting to standard bias adjust-
First thing i noticed was the missing dust cap. These amps are killer, i just bought a 66.
Hi Matthew, great video. I really enjoy all your videos. I recently was given this same amp from a family friend as part of an estate. My friend's husband was a musician and collector and I helped find homes for all the gear. My friend was nice enough to give me this amp. I believe it is all original down to the two prong plug. I had a Amp tech give it a quick look over (did not take it apart) and he believes the tubes and speakers are even original. Do you usually keep the two prong plugs on your amps? I know it would be safer to have the plug changed. I just hate to change anything. It plays and sounds great aa is. Thanks!
Those two loose wires on the power transformer are for 5 volt filament for the rectifier tube.
one more comment the blue capsule caps are original to the amp looks like you have 2 left.to me it looks like a lot has been replaced again uncle doug is the man
Awesome video man, was wondering if you would try out a fender cybertwin amp haha alot of people say it's not a good amp but I set mines to a nice clean sound.... I play country and probably somewhat blues/rock haha but mainly country, n the amp I have is a great amp if you put time into setting your sound on it man it does the job and the line out it amazing sends the sound straight to the mixer haha but again would you try one out haha I'm a new subscriber haha good videos man and you have some amazing guitars and amps keep it up 👍
The parts, including the can, that have dates can be leftover stock from the previous year. The best way to date these is the tag on the inside right of the speaker cabinet. I seem to remember that the ones that have the blackface circuit have the vertical lines on the face. Which is why I am guessing it is a 69. If it isn't a AB763 circuit it could be converted very easily. I will go look up the code on the paper tag. Be right back.
Fender Tube amp codes:
1953-1970 - (look for a 2 letter code stamped on the tube chart inside the back of the amp)- the first letter is the year, and the second letter is the month. An amp stamped NA would have been made in Jan. of 1964. Here is a list of the first letter showing the year of manufacture.
These codes have nothing to do with the serial number that is stamped on the right rear of the chassis - Those numbers are posted below.
A=1951, B=1952, C=1953, D=1954, E=1955, F=1956, G=1957, H=1958, I=1959, J=1960,
K=1961, L=1962, M=1963, N=1964, O=1965, P=1966, Q=1967,R=1968, S=1969, T=1970
A=Jan, B=Feb, C=Mar, D=Apr, E=May, F=Jun, G=Jul, H=Aug, I=Sep, J=Oct, K=Nov, & L=Dec
Above post edited with date code info
I love it when you point out the potential safety hazards, your chopstick pointer rocks! I wonder how the current Fender re-issue combo amps compare as far as potential safety hazards and heat buildup? What are your thoughts about putting a small fan behind your combo amp while you play?
What can be done about the harsh sound? I had a 70s twin reverb, I tried replacing all the tubes I could get off of Musician's Friend, which helped slightly. I guess the only other thing would be to try to get more powerful speakers with the same ohms, I don't know.
@@GCKelloch , great tips, great ideas, thanks!
GCKelloch , OK, I ordered the 6 foot and 10 foot G1 from Musician's Friend, that's where the Rapco website offered to take me to buy it.
I guess these are balanced guitar cables, the typical guitar cable is unbalanced, as I understand it. I guess it will be OK to use these G1 cables as my normal guitar cable for any guitar and guitar amplifier.
Thanks for the tube advice, my ex best friend actually has my old fender twin reverb, it's not worth the old hassles to stir up right now, so I'm shopping for a brand new re-issue instead.
I'm leaning towards a brand new 59 bassman reissue. I noticed that the fender.com website has this Bassman 59 combo amp listed under guitar not under bass. Is it safe to play a bass guitar through this 59 bassman Reissue? Is it just common knowledge? when I was a kid we screwed up a couple of solid state practice amps by playing bass guitars through them. That's part of the reason I'm choosing to buy a brand new 59 Bassman Reissue, If it maybe gives me the flexibility to play a bass guitar through it on occasion, without risking permanent damage. My second choice would be a brand new re-issue of the 65 super reverb. I originally thought I was going to buy a brand new fender 65 reissue twin reverb this year, which is 85 watts, double the wattage Than the Super or the Bassman reissues.
From watching RUclips videos elsewhere, the current trendy thing to do seems to be lower wattage for easier recording volumes and living room playing volumes. Maybe the public is getting old and likes it quieter? I'm getting old too, So I can't knock it.
The reissue fender Super Reverb and the 59 Bassman are both 2 ohm outputs, Which I think the lower the ohm output, the cleaner sound. So the twin reverb re-issue has a 4 ohm output, so not as clean, but it's a trade off for half the wattage but double the clean sound, I think?
@@GCKelloch , After a few dead ends, here is the best link I found for RapcoHorizon.com:
www.rapcohorizon.com/product/165/g1-inst-14-14
They do not sell from this website, instead I had to click on “Buy from Dealer” and it offered 5 choices, so I was most familiar with Musician’s Friend:
www.musiciansfriend.com/accessories/rapco-horizon-standard-guitar-cable/336010000000154?src=3xvbn01#productDetail
First I did 10’, then repeated the steps for the 6’. I don’t like it that the Musician’s Friend web page did not call it G1, but this was the link from RapcoHorizon.
I am sorry that I mentioned balanced/unbalanced. I thought I saw it mentioned during my RapcoHorizon search, maybe for their studio cables. Now I do not see it on these two web pages.
GCKelloch , OK, thanks for the valuable insights on the G1 cables and the Bassman re-issue amp, much appreciated!
A fan would be great. Twin reverbs are a. It harsh
I feel like if you sent this Super Reverb to Brad/The Guitologist, he might be able to help you out. He's done quite a few Fenders, Marshall's and various other amps before, so his experience could come in handy in regards to where to go with the amp.
Killer video as always, Matthew!
Hey I just watched johan, he had the Mullards he said that they were labeled Phillips, so mb your power tube is cool,
Interesting. Love johan
I had someone work on my 68 twin, wish I left it alone. It’s was the best sounding amp before they butchered it. I asked them not to touch the circuit board, I know for sure they changed some capacitors.
There is a saying in the amp world that an amp sometimes sounds the best right before it is about to die. I think you have to trust your tech, but always get an explanation as to what was done, so that you can question it yourself, or get a second opinion.
Dude why are you never playing the Mary kaye!?
Needs frets
The 606 numbers on your transformers indicates Schumacher ,most all fenders have them as stock.And shit can all the caps.Put metalfilm resistors where needed on your output tubes.You should be good to go after that.My brother bought a 67,those amps are awesome.Same time I got a 65 Twin,wanted a pedal amp.A lot heavier than my old Deluxe Reverb.But worth it.😎🎸👍
In 1968 I was in my Junior year of high school. I started playing guitar two years earlier. I still can't play anywhere near as well as you.
What tuning do you play in man? Eb? Whatever tuning it is it sounds hella fresh man. You make me want a Strat and im a LP guy lol.
E flat
Buen amplificador
Hey Matthew, I have a choice between a 68 drip edge and a SUPER clean 73, I’m so torn on which to get! Help!
I have a 68 or 69 im in the process of restoring. I was curious on how this would sound with a heavy metal distortion pedal. (Blasphemy I know) but just curious as a mostly metal player.
As for gluing the dust cap back on the speaker, that's easy. Just use Elmer's white glue. No need to use epoxy or anything like that. Do a neat job, though.
If i remember correctly one of the reasons the 68 is desirable is because it has the exact same circuit as the 63 to 67 circuit ab763 black face... only difference is the cosmetics really
yeah interesting you should use tung sols for the preamp tubes and JJs for the power tubes....you wont be dissapointed..groove tubes are rubbish...also get your amp tech to make sure the voltage to power tubes is good and high...most fender amps are set a little on the low side to make the tubes last longer..
Agree that Tung Sol makes great 12AX7 and JJ for power tubes. I also dislike JJ preamp tubes for character, but they are reliable. Have to disagree on the GrooveTubes generalization. They are rebranders, meaning you could have Chinese, Russian, or even some very good quality NOS tubes with GT labels on them.
Does that have a ss rectifier?
yes, its an aftermarket plug-in.
Ohh and mine has the tube rectifier
Look at tube chart. 5u4 later circuit GZ og circuit.
スゴい、
All the dark brown capacitors look heat damaged on the video.
You can glue that dust cap back in. It won't hurt.You should use this adhesive though- www.simplyspeakers.com/speaker-repair-adhesive-mi-2000.html
You may just want to order up some new speakers and pull the originals and set those aside in case you sell it down the road. Weber, Warehouse and Eminence make some great replacements.
hot glue
Your amp has been serviced in the past. Oddly enough it has not been recapped at all. All the electrolytic caps are original except for the bias capacitor. Kind of unusual.... Also 2 capacitors have been changed for Orange Drops. You can just use some superglue and very carefully put the dust cap back on the speaker. It’s there only to prevent any dust or particules to get in between the voice coil and the magnets. That would be very bad and would permanently damage it.
rumbling is leaky filter caps.......
All the light tan and white caps (electrolytic) should be changed. The brown (turd) caps should not, unless verified bad. All from my ’71 DR test perfect regarding value and leakage. (Don’t believe the internet folklore on them.) The orange drops are not original.
If you place the “ground” switch in the middle you should not get shocked, although maybe it has no middle setting? It should actually be disconnected and a proper 3-prong cord installed and death cap removed.
I don’t see the resistors on the output cathodes so it is the “BF style.” Screen resistors look changed. I see the grid-to-ground caps on the output tubes which are considered tone-suckers (quasi folklore) and reduce the risk of oscillation. I would leave them since you have plenty of high end.
The unused wires off the power tranny are the 5volts for the tube rectifier that someone replaced. I would convert back after verifying the winding is ok unless you prefer zero “sag” at high volume.
This is some good advise right here. Only thing I would vary on is to remove the grid-to ground caps on one end only, as the final step in the blackfacing process. If the amp doesn't have oscillation issues, take them all the way out. If it does emit some squealing at high volumes, then re-attach the end you unsoldered. This is amp tech work, though.
68 AB763 shouldn't be much difference from 67
Could always black face it, and youd be set.
You must have a stack of cash to buy all this vintage stuff. Did you win the lottery. ? Rich Parents ?
606-8-18 transformer = 18th week of 1968 🤠👍🎸