Does a new freshly torqued semi-truck lug nut represent what someone would see in the field? Almost certainly not, old rusted 33mm nuts don't like being removed. But old rusted lug nuts are also not a very repeatable or consistent test, so this is the next best thing.
The bigger issue is often they are way over-torqued. Roadside tire repair guys use massive 2,000ftlb air-guns, and guess at the torque level. Some are better at that than others. Could be 400ftlb or 800ftlb.
I used ruclips.net/user/postUgkx4ynqaujg7rZKFapA8s29kTpRszJGa3-K this for the first time today to replace the front wheel bearing on my rwd 98 dodge dakota. This had absolutely no issue removing or reinstalling the lug nuts and it took off the axle nut without any struggle. Sounds like it's got some muscle to it. Time will tell
I'm impressed with that little Milwaukee. They seem to do a good job with their power tools. I've also impressed with them when watching Project Farm. Great video!
Heard about this channel from your friend on Garage Journal. I'm impressed with your commitment to keeping things simple and staying consistent in your testing. Some of the best tool content out there is right here in this channel! I can't wait to see the subscriber count grow for you and see where this could take the channel. Thanks!
You seem to be quite knowledgeable so I have a question. If you torque a wheel nut down to 500 ft lbs does it require exactly 500 foot pounds to loosen it? Taken away other variables such as rust and corrosion. I've often wondered this but I've never tested it and I'm wondering if from an engineering standpoint if there's any type of formula or standardization so to speak as far as what it requires to remove a given fastener that was tightened to a specific torque.
The rate at which a bolt is tightened per turn is based on pitch, that pitch follows the inclined plane theory. Which is a fancy way of saying how steep a hill its climbing when turning. Going downhill (loosening) will always requires less effort than tightening (pushing up hill). Roughly 10-15%. It's just one of a list of reason why "nut-busting" doesn't actually mean anything, and also why tools on this channel might always be fighting an "uphill" battle making the numbers on the box.
@@TorqueTestChannel So does the thread pitch and design have an effect on this also from a friction effect (contact area of the thread's peaks and valleys) as well as the plane theory? For example fine vs course or "J" thread and acme type threads. I know this may be difficult to provide a short answer so sorry for that. Wonder if the explanation might make for a good video idea sometime?
@@SouthMainAuto Yes, in the equation for input torque to actual tensile load on the bolt : F [p/2pi + uR*rT/cos a + uB*RB], p is the thread pitch and a is the thread form angle. So they play a part. In practice the materials, conditions and friction coefficient (expressed uT) play such a big role and vary so widely it's not as much a night and day thing as those. As for a video, don't want to come across as and expert source. Rather just let the numbers tell the story and us not be the source for any "truths".
@@dchawk81 The inclined plane on a thread ignores the orientation of gravity, the pushing up a hill scenario was just an analogy. It has to do with thread pitch being steep vs gentle slope (fine vs coarse) and direction of the threads (loosening being in the less and less tension direction, tightening being more and more resistance)
That torque formula made me dizzy... In layman's terms, when a bolt is tightened, you are pressing on the metal material where the nut meets its target and stretching the thread material in the bolt, drastically increasing metal to metal friction as the nut is getting tighter - like a spring being compresses. When loosening the bolt, less effort is required due to the compressed metal helping remove the bolt as it is getting uncompressed. Basically the metal parts elastically bend when tightened and unbends when loosens. The nut buster torque is required when loosening rusted bolts because we are now breaking apart fused rusty metal between the nut and the bolt. BTW a fan of your channel too, South Main Auto Repair LLC.
I have the same new mid torque, it is able to remove lug nuts on my f150 torqued to 150lbs easily but it could not remove a rusted seized leaf spring shackle nut without heating the nut and bolt. It works well but I did find its limitations. I was however able to remove the rusty trailer hitch mounting bolts in order to access the shackle nuts easy enough.
Not to be that guy, but the F350’s lug nuts are 165 on the models that would have that stud style, as per Ford’s workshop documentation. However, absolutely fucking banger video and I’ve been binge watching your channel all night from start to finish
Just think how fast it would’ve spun that big rig lug nut off if you’d have used a 6 amp battery. Whether the tool’s box specifies a specific battery or not, the manufacturer has stated repeatedly that the Fuel tools architecture takes advantage of the High Output batteries and their 2170 cells. The architecture of both the battery and tool allow communication between the two, ramping up the torque when needed.
Now torque the truck lug to 600ftlbs (as they almost always get cranked on with a tire gun) then spay it with salt water and let it sit outside for a year. Then see what happens.That is a real world test… for a frame of reference my gen 2 3/4 high torque can’t get half of the lugs off that I try. And that’s with a full 12.0 brick!
My honest issue with the battery Impact guns is the audible nosie when removing a trucks lug nut or a stubborn brake booster bolts, vs a pnumatic one. Yep technology has gone super far nowadays, but man it's super annoying when someone is using a battery Impact gun in the work shop as the audible noise is so much louder than the traditional pnumatic guns. Don't get me wrong I have both pnumatic and electric they both have their place hopefully one day technology allows these big brand names to dampen the audible noise from the electric Impact guns
There's really no need for a Milwaukee high torque 1/2 impact, all you need it the mid torque for most jobs. If you need more than that, the 3/4 inch model barely weighs more than the big 1/2 incher and doesn't cost a lot more, but it is more powerful and feels a lot smoother.
Wow this is awesome.... Really packs a punch..... Hey I was thinking that it would be cool if you could try out the kobalt XTR line and see how it holds up to the rest. Thanks for the great content. 👍
Okay we'll do that. We noticed how insanely cheap they are now when you break down the cost of the tool/battery/charger compared to what else is in the same store. We have a few models on the bench now, but we'll add the XTR to our "to do" list.
@@TorqueTestChannel awesome can't wait 👍.... I'm sure you know but they also have a cordless right angle impact. These are great comparison torque test and I really like the leader board it really helps out to find the right value needed.
I knew Milwaukee was a great cordless company when i stepped on my snap on dealers truck and saw 4 half inch cordless impacts lmao but yea where I work that half inch wouldn’t take our Mac truck lugs 9 times out of 10 we’re lugging over our torch to cut the lug off
Everybody always tests these on the max speed setting... Why does nobody test the torque output on the lower speed settings as well? Is it because the torque output is the same on all speed settings and only the rpm changes? If the torque is also lower on the lower speed settings, it would be nice to know approximately what those lower torque figures are for each speed setting...
I like your content But I was hoping to see more testing, ok it did one nut, Would have been really good to end with a actual real world test on a real semi rig and 10 lugs, Just saying still liked and subbed
I think most of us know how a real world test of this sort would turn out. This tool isn't designed for what you suggest and neither are 1/2" air impacts.
@@garyradtke3252 I would only use this Gen2 Mid Torque for Mid/Small Automotive applications. My Milwaukee 3/4 drive is great for most of the work on larger trucks
How many of them can it loosen? Can it take off all ten from one wheel? If it can take off four wheels so 40 lug nuts then it might be worth the purchase. Would help saving my back lol. Can you test Milwaukee's 1inch impact?
I know my DeWalt 20V XR 1/4" Apex Impsct with a half inch adapter and 22 mm deepwell impact socket removed alllugs on my Girlfriendd car, its from 2014 to boot.
I've been using the Makita mid torque at work for half a year the power is underwhelming like pretty much every cordless impact. Milwaukee DeWalt IR etc they are all the same. Removing freshly tightened nuts and bolts on a test rig is nowhere near the same as trying to remove them in real world settings. At work our customers wheels are torqued to no more than 110 ft-lbs yet every mid torque I've used have routinely struggled to loosen them and is very frustrating considering the advertised torque ratings.
@@Mike-sf7ex which model number are you using? The xwt17 brushless mid torque was just released and I've been using it on lug nuts for a week and a half on lug nuts with no issues. I had an f150 about a month ago that I couldn't remove the lug nuts with my ir2235qtimax. I was jumping on my pittsburgh 25 in breaker bar when the Gearwrench truck showed up and rep brought in a Milwaukee high torque after I sheared the anvil on the bar and stripped the pawl in my co-worker's huge Matco 30" ratchet. It removed that lug nut, but wouldn't budge the others. I bought an Icon 3/4 drive breaker bar and was able to remove them all with that. I work at a used car dealer and most of our service customers utilize used tire shops that use too many ugga duggas on the lug nuts with no torque sticks. The xwt17 has been great for lug nuts so far.
@@nosliwttam77 that's crazy. I work on light duty passenger vehicles so thankfully don't have to deal with that lol. I have the DTW701XVZ which is the international model that Makita sells here in Canada. 701 is pin detent which sucks and barely holds on. XV for high voltage protection. Other than that it's basically identical to the XWT17. I've had the DeWalt DCF894 prior and was an early adopter for that as well. Both units will occasionally struggle taking off 17mm wheel bolts that easily loosen by hand yet no problem taking off axle nuts. Don't make any sense.
@@Mike-sf7ex I looked it up and it does look like the specs are the same. I went with the friction ring. I usually removed axle nuts with my 3/8 stubby m12 and an adapter until I got the Makita. That is strange. Maybe you received a defective one? I use 5.0 battery. I used the Makita on Friday on a couple of lower control arms on a Chevy and a Hyundai and some rusty exhaust nuts on a sonic that the m12 wouldn't budge. It was a rust belt car. I did have to use the air for the upper caliper bracket bolt on the Hyundai with an adapter and a 3/8 dr swivel socket. On a different note, I live in Texas and and appreciate Canada's willingness to share your weather with us. Now that we've had a small sample, please take it back! 🥶
Now let’s see you do a video on a proper wagons wheel where the threads are knackered and it’s all rusted up I’ve seen the 1” drive Milwaukee’s not be able to budge them when it’s a real life situation not one that’s freshly lubed and just been tightened 3 seconds ago
Make sure to use the high output Milwaukee batteries with the 21700cells to do the torque test and compare that with the normal 5ah battery. The high output batteries are suppose to make the tool more powerful
While it may remove that 33mm nut now which is impressive, it wouldn’t do it on an actual truck unless it was torqued properly and has no rust. Most truck lugs are rusted and covered in dirt, salt etc. still impressive. My w5152 ingersoll Rand can do the same thing
It's impressive, but I would like to see it take off the bolts from an actual truck, seized from going months before being taken off. If I could see that. I would drop matco tools and strictly buy only milwaukee from then on
I used my M18 1/2" high torque for just that many times. It does the job quite fine, though it takes a few seconds to hammer them loose, and it eats batteries like mad. Never noticed a big difference between high output and regular batteries in power though.
In reality 3/4" DeWalt can't really remove 32-33mm semi truck nuts. It removes them, but you need to hold it like 10 seconds on each nut. Thats on used, little bit rusted and probably little bit overtighted nuts.
For sure, in the real world it's a much different story. Only way for it to be a controlled repeatable experiment in this setting is to do the 500 ft-lbs on a new nut, which is consistent but not "real world"
@@TorqueTestChannel If you want to quickly remove truck lug nuts, you need a 1" gun. Milwaukee cordless or air, thats your preference. Neither my cordless 3/4" or air 3/4" can remove them reliably
This is exactly how manufacturers come up with their numbers for their impact wrenches. They say that an impact rated for 650ftlbs of nut busting torque can loosen a nut torqued to 650ftlbs. Now of course a nut torqued to 650lbs doesn't require 650ftlbs of torque to remove. It's clever marketing.
Don’t walk up to a big truck at the shop and try this. It’s quite embarrassing. I’ve never seen our tire guys use a torque wrench on our fleets wheels, they just hammer away with the 1” drive tire gun.
Defeats the purpose of having a smaller impact If you run a big ass battery on it. It's like the Milwaukee stubby impacts and that 6.0 battery. Completely pointless...
This thing is garbage. I own one, can't take off 150ft lbs lug nuts half the time, meanwhile I go at it with a 16 inch breaker bar and they come right off. . Even when they have anti seized on them from the previous season. Not impressed at all.
![JUST RELEASED! Milwaukee Gen 2 M18 FUEL Mid Torque Impact Review [2960 & 2962]](/img/1.gif)
Does a new freshly torqued semi-truck lug nut represent what someone would see in the field? Almost certainly not, old rusted 33mm nuts don't like being removed. But old rusted lug nuts are also not a very repeatable or consistent test, so this is the next best thing.
Keep up the good work absolutely enjoing the channel 👍👍
@@JEvans575 Hey thanks!
The bigger issue is often they are way over-torqued. Roadside tire repair guys use massive 2,000ftlb air-guns, and guess at the torque level. Some are better at that than others. Could be 400ftlb or 800ftlb.
They do get loose when it’s only toq at 600 lb 😏
Torque specs? What are those?
*Great **MyBest.Tools** tool, lots of power and very smooth*
I used ruclips.net/user/postUgkx4ynqaujg7rZKFapA8s29kTpRszJGa3-K this for the first time today to replace the front wheel bearing on my rwd 98 dodge dakota. This had absolutely no issue removing or reinstalling the lug nuts and it took off the axle nut without any struggle. Sounds like it's got some muscle to it. Time will tell
I'm impressed with that little Milwaukee. They seem to do a good job with their power tools. I've also impressed with them when watching Project Farm. Great video!
Thanks for buying a proper fitting socket not trying this with an adapter :)
Never understood testing with adapters. If the test ever requires an adapter, we'll have a new tool made for us so it doesn't.
@@TorqueTestChannel how the hell do you have less than 100000 subs? This content is great! Keep it going!
I tried test with adapter, the performance drop significantly..
Heard about this channel from your friend on Garage Journal. I'm impressed with your commitment to keeping things simple and staying consistent in your testing. Some of the best tool content out there is right here in this channel! I can't wait to see the subscriber count grow for you and see where this could take the channel. Thanks!
He's given me a lot of good feedback from you guys over on GarageJournal. Appreciate it!
You seem to be quite knowledgeable so I have a question. If you torque a wheel nut down to 500 ft lbs does it require exactly 500 foot pounds to loosen it? Taken away other variables such as rust and corrosion. I've often wondered this but I've never tested it and I'm wondering if from an engineering standpoint if there's any type of formula or standardization so to speak as far as what it requires to remove a given fastener that was tightened to a specific torque.
The rate at which a bolt is tightened per turn is based on pitch, that pitch follows the inclined plane theory. Which is a fancy way of saying how steep a hill its climbing when turning. Going downhill (loosening) will always requires less effort than tightening (pushing up hill). Roughly 10-15%. It's just one of a list of reason why "nut-busting" doesn't actually mean anything, and also why tools on this channel might always be fighting an "uphill" battle making the numbers on the box.
@@TorqueTestChannel So does the thread pitch and design have an effect on this also from a friction effect (contact area of the thread's peaks and valleys) as well as the plane theory? For example fine vs course or "J" thread and acme type threads. I know this may be difficult to provide a short answer so sorry for that. Wonder if the explanation might make for a good video idea sometime?
@@SouthMainAuto Yes, in the equation for input torque to actual tensile load on the bolt : F [p/2pi + uR*rT/cos a + uB*RB], p is the thread pitch and a is the thread form angle. So they play a part. In practice the materials, conditions and friction coefficient (expressed uT) play such a big role and vary so widely it's not as much a night and day thing as those. As for a video, don't want to come across as and expert source. Rather just let the numbers tell the story and us not be the source for any "truths".
@@dchawk81 The inclined plane on a thread ignores the orientation of gravity, the pushing up a hill scenario was just an analogy. It has to do with thread pitch being steep vs gentle slope (fine vs coarse) and direction of the threads (loosening being in the less and less tension direction, tightening being more and more resistance)
That torque formula made me dizzy... In layman's terms, when a bolt is tightened, you are pressing on the metal material where the nut meets its target and stretching the thread material in the bolt, drastically increasing metal to metal friction as the nut is getting tighter - like a spring being compresses. When loosening the bolt, less effort is required due to the compressed metal helping remove the bolt as it is getting uncompressed. Basically the metal parts elastically bend when tightened and unbends when loosens. The nut buster torque is required when loosening rusted bolts because we are now breaking apart fused rusty metal between the nut and the bolt. BTW a fan of your channel too, South Main Auto Repair LLC.
I have the same new mid torque, it is able to remove lug nuts on my f150 torqued to 150lbs easily but it could not remove a rusted seized leaf spring shackle nut without heating the nut and bolt. It works well but I did find its limitations. I was however able to remove the rusty trailer hitch mounting bolts in order to access the shackle nuts easy enough.
Because rusted parts now add more power needed... Not to mention the rubber bushing in them take up most the torque being applied...
Big boy def would’ve taken it off but the mid does the job well
Excellent job guys very professional
Now I'm wondering about that new Ryobi mid torque that was just announced. It has very similar specs to the Milwaukee and as made by the same company
Not to be that guy, but the F350’s lug nuts are 165 on the models that would have that stud style, as per Ford’s workshop documentation.
However, absolutely fucking banger video and I’ve been binge watching your channel all night from start to finish
Everything is so new and clean
Thank you for all of these great videos. Extremely helpful. Very informative.
Would like to see the Matco stubby air impact. Guy at work just got a new one and it is a beast
Just think how fast it would’ve spun that big rig lug nut off if you’d have used a 6 amp battery. Whether the tool’s box specifies a specific battery or not, the manufacturer has stated repeatedly that the Fuel tools architecture takes advantage of the High Output batteries and their 2170 cells. The architecture of both the battery and tool allow communication between the two, ramping up the torque when needed.
Now torque the truck lug to 600ftlbs (as they almost always get cranked on with a tire gun) then spay it with salt water and let it sit outside for a year. Then see what happens.That is a real world test… for a frame of reference my gen 2 3/4 high torque can’t get half of the lugs off that I try. And that’s with a full 12.0 brick!
Nice video, can’t wait for more content
Unfortunately, the Milwaukee Mid-torque Gen2 2962-20 got its butt handed to them by the Mid-torque DeWalt 20v Max DCF891B
thanks for you video!
Love mine, it's. Great 90% gun. Thanks guys.
My honest issue with the battery Impact guns is the audible nosie when removing a trucks lug nut or a stubborn brake booster bolts, vs a pnumatic one. Yep technology has gone super far nowadays, but man it's super annoying when someone is using a battery Impact gun in the work shop as the audible noise is so much louder than the traditional pnumatic guns. Don't get me wrong I have both pnumatic and electric they both have their place hopefully one day technology allows these big brand names to dampen the audible noise from the electric Impact guns
I know exactly what you mean, the pitch becomes ear piercing when it struggles to break free.
There's really no need for a Milwaukee high torque 1/2 impact, all you need it the mid torque for most jobs. If you need more than that, the 3/4 inch model barely weighs more than the big 1/2 incher and doesn't cost a lot more, but it is more powerful and feels a lot smoother.
Waiting to see how it compares to the previous generation. I have a lot of first gen fuel tools and wonder if it’s worth the upgrade.
Yep, I'm also waiting for a comparison video between this and the gen 1.
What was the setting on the wrench when you unscrewed the 18-wheeler lug nut?
Wow this is awesome.... Really packs a punch..... Hey I was thinking that it would be cool if you could try out the kobalt XTR line and see how it holds up to the rest. Thanks for the great content. 👍
Okay we'll do that. We noticed how insanely cheap they are now when you break down the cost of the tool/battery/charger compared to what else is in the same store. We have a few models on the bench now, but we'll add the XTR to our "to do" list.
@@TorqueTestChannel awesome can't wait 👍.... I'm sure you know but they also have a cordless right angle impact. These are great comparison torque test and I really like the leader board it really helps out to find the right value needed.
What Socket was that that you used to remove the smaller nuts?
Yep. That's why I don't need a bigger one than that. It's compact and powerful for everything on the regular truck size. 3/8 world
I'd like to see it up against the kobalt 24v impact
I have this gun, bought it a year ago
I knew Milwaukee was a great cordless company when i stepped on my snap on dealers truck and saw 4 half inch cordless impacts lmao but yea where I work that half inch wouldn’t take our Mac truck lugs 9 times out of 10 we’re lugging over our torch to cut the lug off
Everybody always tests these on the max speed setting... Why does nobody test the torque output on the lower speed settings as well? Is it because the torque output is the same on all speed settings and only the rpm changes? If the torque is also lower on the lower speed settings, it would be nice to know approximately what those lower torque figures are for each speed setting...
Probably time to test this again against modern equivalents please 😅
I like your content
But I was hoping to see more testing, ok it did one nut,
Would have been really good to end with a actual real world test on a real semi rig and 10 lugs,
Just saying still liked and subbed
He said Saturday they’ll release an in-depth comprehensive video of this one vs the Gen 1 Mid Torque
I think most of us know how a real world test of this sort would turn out. This tool isn't designed for what you suggest and neither are 1/2" air impacts.
@@garyradtke3252 I would only use this Gen2 Mid Torque for Mid/Small Automotive applications. My Milwaukee 3/4 drive is great for most of the work on larger trucks
good video
Pin detent or friction ring on your gun in this video?
Try with an M12 Stubby 1/2" from Milwaukee please
You should see what the performance is using only a fully charged battery to see how many lug nuts (semi) can be removed before it dies.
Could you test it with the 3/8 if it can do the same thing!! 2960-22
How many of them can it loosen? Can it take off all ten from one wheel? If it can take off four wheels so 40 lug nuts then it might be worth the purchase. Would help saving my back lol. Can you test Milwaukee's 1inch impact?
That’s the newest Milwaukee mid torque wrench right?
I know my DeWalt 20V XR 1/4" Apex Impsct with a half inch adapter and 22 mm deepwell impact socket removed alllugs on my Girlfriendd car, its from 2014 to boot.
Would like to see it against the Makita xwt17 mid torque.
We'll add it to our list, should be a good one
I've been using the Makita mid torque at work for half a year the power is underwhelming like pretty much every cordless impact. Milwaukee DeWalt IR etc they are all the same. Removing freshly tightened nuts and bolts on a test rig is nowhere near the same as trying to remove them in real world settings. At work our customers wheels are torqued to no more than 110 ft-lbs yet every mid torque I've used have routinely struggled to loosen them and is very frustrating considering the advertised torque ratings.
@@Mike-sf7ex which model number are you using? The xwt17 brushless mid torque was just released and I've been using it on lug nuts for a week and a half on lug nuts with no issues. I had an f150 about a month ago that I couldn't remove the lug nuts with my ir2235qtimax. I was jumping on my pittsburgh 25 in breaker bar when the Gearwrench truck showed up and rep brought in a Milwaukee high torque after I sheared the anvil on the bar and stripped the pawl in my co-worker's huge Matco 30" ratchet. It removed that lug nut, but wouldn't budge the others. I bought an Icon 3/4 drive breaker bar and was able to remove them all with that. I work at a used car dealer and most of our service customers utilize used tire shops that use too many ugga duggas on the lug nuts with no torque sticks. The xwt17 has been great for lug nuts so far.
@@nosliwttam77 that's crazy. I work on light duty passenger vehicles so thankfully don't have to deal with that lol. I have the DTW701XVZ which is the international model that Makita sells here in Canada. 701 is pin detent which sucks and barely holds on. XV for high voltage protection. Other than that it's basically identical to the XWT17. I've had the DeWalt DCF894 prior and was an early adopter for that as well. Both units will occasionally struggle taking off 17mm wheel bolts that easily loosen by hand yet no problem taking off axle nuts. Don't make any sense.
@@Mike-sf7ex I looked it up and it does look like the specs are the same. I went with the friction ring. I usually removed axle nuts with my 3/8 stubby m12 and an adapter until I got the Makita. That is strange. Maybe you received a defective one? I use 5.0 battery. I used the Makita on Friday on a couple of lower control arms on a Chevy and a Hyundai and some rusty exhaust nuts on a sonic that the m12 wouldn't budge. It was a rust belt car. I did have to use the air for the upper caliper bracket bolt on the Hyundai with an adapter and a 3/8 dr swivel socket. On a different note, I live in Texas and and appreciate Canada's willingness to share your weather with us. Now that we've had a small sample, please take it back! 🥶
Can you do the Makita mid torque?
How about a old crusty nut?
Now let’s see you do a video on a proper wagons wheel where the threads are knackered and it’s all rusted up I’ve seen the 1” drive Milwaukee’s not be able to budge them when it’s a real life situation not one that’s freshly lubed and just been tightened 3 seconds ago
You forgot to throw a little rust on those nuts 😅
Make sure to use the high output Milwaukee batteries with the 21700cells to do the torque test and compare that with the normal 5ah battery. The high output batteries are suppose to make the tool more powerful
33mm nut? very odd size
I guess the milwaukee was a 1/2 drive you did not say ?
While it may remove that 33mm nut now which is impressive, it wouldn’t do it on an actual truck unless it was torqued properly and has no rust. Most truck lugs are rusted and covered in dirt, salt etc. still impressive. My w5152 ingersoll Rand can do the same thing
Whats the gen 3?
It's impressive, but I would like to see it take off the bolts from an actual truck, seized from going months before being taken off. If I could see that. I would drop matco tools and strictly buy only milwaukee from then on
I used my M18 1/2" high torque for just that many times. It does the job quite fine, though it takes a few seconds to hammer them loose, and it eats batteries like mad. Never noticed a big difference between high output and regular batteries in power though.
No it CAN NOT.
theres a reason why tire shops are starting the job with massive 2000ftlb air gun :)
In reality 3/4" DeWalt can't really remove 32-33mm semi truck nuts. It removes them, but you need to hold it like 10 seconds on each nut. Thats on used, little bit rusted and probably little bit overtighted nuts.
For sure, in the real world it's a much different story. Only way for it to be a controlled repeatable experiment in this setting is to do the 500 ft-lbs on a new nut, which is consistent but not "real world"
@@TorqueTestChannel If you want to quickly remove truck lug nuts, you need a 1" gun. Milwaukee cordless or air, thats your preference. Neither my cordless 3/4" or air 3/4" can remove them reliably
This is exactly how manufacturers come up with their numbers for their impact wrenches. They say that an impact rated for 650ftlbs of nut busting torque can loosen a nut torqued to 650ftlbs. Now of course a nut torqued to 650lbs doesn't require 650ftlbs of torque to remove. It's clever marketing.
Don’t walk up to a big truck at the shop and try this. It’s quite embarrassing. I’ve never seen our tire guys use a torque wrench on our fleets wheels, they just hammer away with the 1” drive tire gun.
Now so it on a truck that's seen water and salt
Without the 12 ah battery on the 1/2" milwaukee impacts, you're not achieving its full potential
Yeah, but come to the yard where I work and try in the real world.
With the 8.0 ho battery it would be faster
Defeats the purpose of having a smaller impact If you run a big ass battery on it. It's like the Milwaukee stubby impacts and that 6.0 battery. Completely pointless...
It didn't loosen a tire it could't do it
This does not represent a lug nut on a real piece of equipment
That was a very piss poor test for out in the real world new nuts and bolts with oil still on them
This thing is garbage. I own one, can't take off 150ft lbs lug nuts half the time, meanwhile I go at it with a 16 inch breaker bar and they come right off. . Even when they have anti seized on them from the previous season. Not impressed at all.