I cannot begin to tell you how much this helped, thank you! Your advice to check your work was spot on. I was about to pull the pins and I checked the chains and I was one tooth off on the crank sprocket right bank. You are an excellent teacher.
Well thank you very much! It always makes my day to hear one of my videos has been able to help someone. Super cool! Nice catch on that timing chain too, that could have cost you. Well done! Thanks for stopping by and taking a moment to leave me a comment.
Wow Trey, thank you very much for the great compliment. It always makes my day to hear one of my videos has been helpful. Thank you for stopping by and taking a moment to leave me a comment, much appreciated!
Great video and even better explanation.. so it sounds like there is still confusion of the crank position.. you say 12:00 is best because all pistons are well under deck, that to me seems to be the best position to avoid any potential contact .. but now you used the timing tool and you put the crank to 11:00 by turning CCW from 12:00 and it would appear that is a more dangerous position with possible valve clearance? The ford procedure states to use the alignment tool for the crank I assume that is so you can position the cams while keeping the crank dot consistent at 6:00? Thanks for this great video.. I have 2000 f250 .. 170,000 mi and 5.4L 2V and I’m considering this preemptive component upgrade
Best breakdown of this process!! Another hard to find video showed that with keyway in 12:00 position, pistons are down far enough to not cause any damage, but seeing your visual example with the cardboard puts it to rest! It seems you could rotate as desired but not tempting fate is always a sign of wisdom. I've researched for a few weeks now this timing process and your video was the first to show how to use the cam locks as well as rotating the cam sprockets before adjusting the crank sprocket and installing chains. I'm doing a head gasket replacement, and since I'm gonna have everything opened I finally pulled the trigger and ordered a Cloyes timing kit (because it included cam sprockets and seems to have a good name). Besides lining up my brother to help I think I'm finally ready to perform this open heart surgery on my 98 F250 5.4 2v. Gonna do all gaskets: intake, valve, throttle, head, and front cover. Thanks to folks like you I've learned that with persistence/patience/study I CAN do this myself. Truly thank you! Matt
Good luck with your project Matt, I hope it goes well for you. This motor was for my son's 1999 F250 5.4 2V so I would expect it to be pretty much identical for your truck.
Great video. Is helping so much on my 2001 f150 5.4 2v. I have 318,000 miles so I guess I am overdue 😮. Does it matter which way you rotate the cam shafts when doing the timing? Thanks so much.
Excellent video. You explain everything perfectly. I think you were a teacher for your profession. You have great teaching skills. Ty again for your time.
Hello and thank you for the excellent tutorial. I was hoping to get a question answered if possible. I just recently installed the timing components on my 4.6 and before I put my timing cover back on I wanted to verify everything is correct. I decided to turn the motor over a couple times to see if everything was good and I noticed when I get part of the way through a cycle there is a sudden increase in slack on the passenger side chain. Only on the top though obviously, because the tensioner is applying pressure on the bottom side. Just hoping this is normal and I didn’t install anything incorrectly. Thank you!
Good question! I did an experiment with that to find out and unfortunately I can't find where I wrote it down!! If I remember correctly, it was somewhere in the 40's. I do remember that the timing mark on the chain advances one position with each rotation so it will directly relate to the number of chain links. Sorry, but hopefully this little bit of info can help point you in the right direction.
@javosgarage I was hoping that you would keep it posted. It's a ton of information. I think since I'm going to go that far, I might as well do head gaskets.
So the lower chains go on same mark NOT the back one and front one , that’s 6 teeth different 😆 great video 🤙 now i can finish my 02expedition . Mine has the sprocket that you can use the 3/8 ratchet , just noting 👍
Very good video only thing that I would do differently would be all my chains and guides would be from ford only I always use the water pump,chains and guides from ford when i do the 3.5 and 3.7
I ordered the Melling kit but after receiving it and reading more online, I returned it and ordered all the parts OEM from Ford. To me it wasn't worth saving $100 using after market parts. I came across multiple sites from people who had Melling fail, one of them within 600 miles of installing. That was enough to scare me out of using after market on this particular repair. Regardless of the kit, the information in this video is excellent and done very well.
This is a loaded question, depends on who you ask! LOL. I think I explained why I believed Melling to be the better choice for me but I can certainly appreciate the thought of sticking with OEM. I believe the ratcheting feature of the Melling was an advantage because it doesn't retract (or very little) when oil pressure is lost. I would completely avoid the no name cheap kits though, you don't want to have to redo this project in a year.
@@javosgarage 2003 F150 5.4 4x4 is up and running and runs sooo smooth. I blew a spark plug and thought that was the extent of the project. Once I got in to it, found my valve cover gaskets leaking. Took the covers off and found my timing chain loose. Pulled the timing cover and found one of the chain guides broken. Had to drop the oil pan to get the pick up tube out and found many of the broken chain guide pieces stuck in the pick up tube screen. Job turned into a complete timing job replacement as well as replaced oil pan gasket, oil filter gasket, valve cover gaskets, intake manifold, all spark plugs, coils, drilled and tapped all new spark plug holes using the Calvan kit and inserts, oil pump, water pump and I think that was it 😅. Two months of my life. I do not want to do it again! But after all that work, the truck runs strong and super quiet. Used many of your videos in my success. Thanks again for the time and effort making them.
Also on that driver side cam front sprocket you can also use a 3/8 extension to rotate it from the front side if you look into the hole you will see a square slot and a 3/8 extension fits perfectly.
I just want to say that this video was very helpful. I did the head gaskets and timing with my dad on his truck before watching this video. After putting it all back together it started but it seems like it has a rough idle. No smoke comes out and there is no codes or check engine light. My dad thinks it is possible the the chain on one side might be off by a tooth. Engine runs with out any noise but would the chain being off cause this? Or would valves hit pistons?
Hello Mary and thank you for the compliment! I get asked that question frequently from friends who own this motor, it's a common problem. I may not be able to help you in person but I'm happy to provide you with some input and advice if you need it along the way. Thanks for stopping by!
This is not the Intech, which is a 4 valve motor, this is the 2 valve motor. Honestly, I have never worked on the Intech so I couldn't tell you if there are any similarities but I doubt that there are. I'm sorry, I wish I could be of more help to you.
Hi Samantha. I didn't in this case because I had been soaking the chains in oil and that was sufficient for my initial startup. If you don't do that it certainly wouldn't hurt to apply some oil or assembly lube to the guides.
Hi Keith, the Melling tensioners do not have a gasket or seal. You just tighten them to spec. I know the later model Ford tensioners that are plastic have a seal - they blew out in my wife's Expedition.
Very well done video...the only thing I'm left unsure about is with the cam timing, is it 11 o clock and 12 o clock in relation to heads on the block? Or heads off, if any of that makes sense
Hi Anthony. The 11 and 12 o'clock positioning would be in a vertical plane from the ground, not in relation of the head to the block. The heads are at about a 45 degree tilt along the vertical plane since they are aligned to the decking of the block. Hope that answers your question.
I have 480k miles on my original chain. Everything on the truck is original. The chain is beginning to make noise on startup. It this point (milage) I'm not sure if I should replace the chain assembly or not.
Wow, that is amazing! It has to be a record! If you're getting noise it's best to address the problem as quickly as possible if you want to keep your motor from being damaged. What can happen is the chain can slap against the timing cover causing pieces of that aluminum cover to get into the oil aaaaaand... well you know what that can do. You would need to decide if the truck is worth the investment; if so, then I'd get it handled sooner rather than later.. Hope that helps, thanks for stopping by!
I have a 5.4 2v 2004 lightning, I did everything you showed and all went well , After replacing chains to correct marks and releasing the tensioners . I turned the crank bolt / sprocket just to verify that chaines were still in sync/ on the marks. Well i cant get them back in in position even after about 5 complete revolutions. will they evere get back to the My original settings?
They will. I don't remember exactly, but for some reason I remember when I was researching before this project that it takes something like 35 revolutions before all those timing marks align again. If you watch carefully, with each revolution the silver links on your timing chains will advance where they come in contact with the cam sprockets. They will get back there, but you would need to make quite a few revolutions to get there.
Yes you can. There are pluses and minuses with using either the 11 or 12 o'clock positions such as: 1. With the keyway at 12 o'clock the pistons are well below deck. However, to properly align all of your timing marks (cams, crank, chains) will mean your cams will be at a point where they have tension and will want to "jump" to a neutral position. 2. With the keyway at 11 o'clock pistons 1 & 6 are now at TDC so you don't want to move the cams because damage could occur. However, when the timing marks are aligned (cams, crank, chains) the cams will be in a "resting" position with no tension, so they wont want to "jump" forward. IMHO, the best practice is to align your cams into their general position (as I show in the video) at the 12 o'clock position and then use the crank alignment tool to adjust the crank to 11 o'clock, then you'll see the cams will almost fall into the correct position when you fine tune the placement of all the timing marks. This is better than having the tension you would have with the 12 o'clock position. I hope this makes sense to you.
Just so I understand completely, you were able to rotate your cams clockwise without worrying about damaging your pistons because the pistons were all below deck by 20+ mm since the crank shaft keyway was at 12'oclock TDC correct? So you are able to rotate both cams around to the proper positions without any fear of damage to the pistons? Just wanting to make sure because every other video i've watched, even with the crank shaft keyway at 12 TDC, they make it sound like its really easy to damage the pistons because of the spring tension and it can turn over on you.
Hi Bryan. You are understanding correctly. It sounds like you've watched the entire video but just in case let me say that I address this issue towards the beginning of the video starting at the 00:30 mark. I really tried to back up my opinion of using the 12 o'clock keyway position with hard, photographic proof. That way it's not subjective, it's just the true facts. Trust me, I get it; you just want to make sure you understand what I did. I have done two rebuilds: my son's 5.4 2V and the 5.4 3V from my wife's Expedition. In both cases I was able to leave the keyway at the 12 o'clock position and then rotate the cams to the 11 and 12 positions (then locking them with the hold down tool) to begin installing my timing components. Let me be clear though, I only rotated the cams forward to get to the alignment position, I didn't do more than a 80% rotation (as I did to the LH side in this video) at best. While I'm confident I could rotate the cams as many times as I wanted with the keyway at the 12 o'clock position, let's just say I didn't want to tempt fate so I didn't do multiple rotations. When you use the alignment tool and the keyway is set to the 11 o'clock position you can absolutely do damage if the tension gets away from you. You'll see the way I did it was to loosen the hold down clamps just barely enough to rotate the cam and then immediately lock it down when I got it to where I needed when I did finally rotate the keyway BACK to the 11 o'clock position from the 12 o'clock position. BTW... DO NOT rotate the crank forward to get to 11, only move it the little bit backwards (counter clockwise) from 12 to 11 as I discuss in the video. I hope that helps you out. Let me know if you have any other questions.
Great job, you saved yourself a lot of cash! So glad to hear my video was able to help you. Thanks for stopping by and taking a moment to leave me a comment.
Hello and thank you for the very informative videos. I followed them to a tee. I do have a question. Since rebuilding the front and top of the 5.4 2v, the motor is running good and quieter. But....I now can hear a knocking noise in the lower end. I think it's a rod bearing but not 100% positive. I have a video of the sound and was wondering if I could get your input? Engine sounds can be tricky and before replacing anything I world like your opinions. I will send the video anywhere you would like. Thanks and hope to hear from you. Dave Rivarchek
Hello Dave, sorry for the late response. I checked your channel and didn't see a video there; if you post it I will gladly check it out. One thing I would suggest would be to get a mechanic's stethoscope, it's really helpful when diagnosing internal noises. You can easily get one at HF or through Amazon. Start with that, if your noise is on the bottom end I would begin with pulling the oil pan so you can do an inspection and check for sloppy play in the connecting rods or main bearings. I had a friend with a similar problem and when we pulled the pan the thrust washers for the crank were laying in the pan! Full rebuild with new crank and heads, then the truck was good to go again. Good luck with your diagnosis, I hope this helps you a bit.
A Ford mechanic told me do not use the ratcheting tensioners, they put to much pressure on chains promoting faster ware. What do you think? I am working on 2003 4.6, 2 valve.
I believe so, however there may be some updated items. This motor is a 1999 but I believe this should apply. I haven't done this procedure on a 2007 though.
I haven't done this procedure on a 4.6L 2V so I can't verify that it would be the same. Sorry. I do have a Mustang with that motor so I'm sure I will at some point but I've been lucky in that it hasn't needed this... yet.
Your an awsome mech. Can you PLEASE do some vids on a 2001 Ford Excursion Limited, 6.8L V10? This is actually a popular vehicle but not a whole lot of vids exist for detailed repairs, etc., on it. Thanks.
Thank you for the great compliment! That would be fun but I don't have access to one of those at the moment. I have a friend that has one but his has the 7.3l. You never know though, there may be one somewhere in the future! Thanks for stopping by and taking a moment to leave me a comment.
You're very welcome. I really appreciate you checking out my new video and then taking the time to leave me such a nice comment. Makes my day. Thank you.
Hi Brandon. No, they do not. They are a ratchet type so as it extends there teeth that lock it into place so it cannot retract. However, you can use a pin to push in a catch so you can retract it if you need to.
Hi Stan. Unobtanium huh? Never hear that one before but it did make me laugh. I will have to steal that one from you. I'm sorry, I don't have any experience with these motors in the E series. I've looked at a few while at the salvage yard in the past and remember thinking it was really tight in there with little or no room to work. I wish I could give you some great advice here to help you out, I apologize.
I cannot begin to tell you how much this helped, thank you! Your advice to check your work was spot on. I was about to pull the pins and I checked the chains and I was one tooth off on the crank sprocket right bank. You are an excellent teacher.
Awesome video very very informative
Well thank you very much! It always makes my day to hear one of my videos has been able to help someone. Super cool! Nice catch on that timing chain too, that could have cost you. Well done! Thanks for stopping by and taking a moment to leave me a comment.
Thank you Robert, I appreciate the compliment!
I would love to work beside you just to learn. I like how you take time to explain every detail. Thank you
You are so welcome! Thank you for the great compliment!
This is the best explanation I’ve came across on any RUclips video. And I’m not just blowing smoke. You sir are a good man! Great video brother!
Awesome! Thank you! I really appreciate the compliment!
This was the best video for help. Very easy guy to understand and not short cutting any areas.
Wow Trey, thank you very much for the great compliment. It always makes my day to hear one of my videos has been helpful. Thank you for stopping by and taking a moment to leave me a comment, much appreciated!
@ by far the best tutorials I have ran across for sure. Keep up the good work !
Great video and even better explanation.. so it sounds like there is still confusion of the crank position.. you say 12:00 is best because all pistons are well under deck, that to me seems to be the best position to avoid any potential contact .. but now you used the timing tool and you put the crank to 11:00 by turning CCW from 12:00 and it would appear that is a more dangerous position with possible valve clearance? The ford procedure states to use the alignment tool for the crank I assume that is so you can position the cams while keeping the crank dot consistent at 6:00? Thanks for this great video.. I have 2000 f250 .. 170,000 mi and 5.4L 2V and I’m considering this preemptive component upgrade
Best breakdown of this process!! Another hard to find video showed that with keyway in 12:00 position, pistons are down far enough to not cause any damage, but seeing your visual example with the cardboard puts it to rest! It seems you could rotate as desired but not tempting fate is always a sign of wisdom. I've researched for a few weeks now this timing process and your video was the first to show how to use the cam locks as well as rotating the cam sprockets before adjusting the crank sprocket and installing chains. I'm doing a head gasket replacement, and since I'm gonna have everything opened I finally pulled the trigger and ordered a Cloyes timing kit (because it included cam sprockets and seems to have a good name). Besides lining up my brother to help I think I'm finally ready to perform this open heart surgery on my 98 F250 5.4 2v. Gonna do all gaskets: intake, valve, throttle, head, and front cover. Thanks to folks like you I've learned that with persistence/patience/study I CAN do this myself. Truly thank you!
Matt
Good luck with your project Matt, I hope it goes well for you. This motor was for my son's 1999 F250 5.4 2V so I would expect it to be pretty much identical for your truck.
Great video. Is helping so much on my 2001 f150 5.4 2v. I have 318,000 miles so I guess I am overdue 😮. Does it matter which way you rotate the cam shafts when doing the timing? Thanks so much.
Excellent video. You explain everything perfectly. I think you were a teacher for your profession. You have great teaching skills. Ty again for your time.
Hello and thank you for the excellent tutorial. I was hoping to get a question answered if possible. I just recently installed the timing components on my 4.6 and before I put my timing cover back on I wanted to verify everything is correct. I decided to turn the motor over a couple times to see if everything was good and I noticed when I get part of the way through a cycle there is a sudden increase in slack on the passenger side chain. Only on the top though obviously, because the tensioner is applying pressure on the bottom side. Just hoping this is normal and I didn’t install anything incorrectly. Thank you!
This helps a bunch as I love this kind of content.
Thank you, I'm glad you enjoyed the video!
Man I love your videos and how well you explain how to do well, everything that you explain.!!! GREAT JOB.!! Keep it up man thank you so much.!.!.!
Thank you Mike, I really appreciate the compliment. Thanks for stopping by and taking a moment to leave me a comment!
QUESTION
How many rotations of crankshaft would I need rotate to realign the timing marks again , just to make sure my timng is correct?
Good question! I did an experiment with that to find out and unfortunately I can't find where I wrote it down!! If I remember correctly, it was somewhere in the 40's. I do remember that the timing mark on the chain advances one position with each rotation so it will directly relate to the number of chain links. Sorry, but hopefully this little bit of info can help point you in the right direction.
Thank you mr for your video, has a lof of good information ❤
What’s the part number too the tool that’s used to turn the cams
Sorry if missed, Could you tell me why you have 1 press on cam sprocket and 1 bolt on sprocket ? I thought both were either press on or bolt on ?
Thanks for the video, I'm getting ready to do my truck.🎉
You're welcome, good luck with your truck!
@javosgarage I was hoping that you would keep it posted. It's a ton of information. I think since I'm going to go that far, I might as well do head gaskets.
Why is tension is tight bottom right and loose on the bottom lift side ?
Javo's Garage ? Does those Melling tensioners need gaskets to seal against the block ? because I don't see any.
This is fantastic. Thank you sir!!!
Thanks Dan. I appreciate the compliment and I'm glad you like the video.
So the lower chains go on same mark NOT the back one and front one , that’s 6 teeth different 😆 great video 🤙 now i can finish my 02expedition . Mine has the sprocket that you can use the 3/8 ratchet , just noting 👍
Very good video only thing that I would do differently would be all my chains and guides would be from ford only I always use the water pump,chains and guides from ford when i do the 3.5 and 3.7
Sir, thanks for such a helpful information. Can you please tell me how can i clean the inside of cylinders without hurting them . Thanks a lot Javo!
Is mellings timing chain the best one
I ordered the Melling kit but after receiving it and reading more online, I returned it and ordered all the parts OEM from Ford. To me it wasn't worth saving $100 using after market parts. I came across multiple sites from people who had Melling fail, one of them within 600 miles of installing. That was enough to scare me out of using after market on this particular repair. Regardless of the kit, the information in this video is excellent and done very well.
This is a loaded question, depends on who you ask! LOL. I think I explained why I believed Melling to be the better choice for me but I can certainly appreciate the thought of sticking with OEM. I believe the ratcheting feature of the Melling was an advantage because it doesn't retract (or very little) when oil pressure is lost. I would completely avoid the no name cheap kits though, you don't want to have to redo this project in a year.
Thank you for the compliment Bryan! I hope your project went well and your truck is doing great.
@@javosgarage 2003 F150 5.4 4x4 is up and running and runs sooo smooth. I blew a spark plug and thought that was the extent of the project. Once I got in to it, found my valve cover gaskets leaking. Took the covers off and found my timing chain loose. Pulled the timing cover and found one of the chain guides broken. Had to drop the oil pan to get the pick up tube out and found many of the broken chain guide pieces stuck in the pick up tube screen. Job turned into a complete timing job replacement as well as replaced oil pan gasket, oil filter gasket, valve cover gaskets, intake manifold, all spark plugs, coils, drilled and tapped all new spark plug holes using the Calvan kit and inserts, oil pump, water pump and I think that was it 😅. Two months of my life. I do not want to do it again! But after all that work, the truck runs strong and super quiet. Used many of your videos in my success. Thanks again for the time and effort making them.
Добрый день, подскажите пожалуйста, какой фирмы комплект грм лучше? Спасибо
Good day sir.
Whats the Service Hrs for this timing Job.
Or whats the cost from a independent shop?
Thanks
Also on that driver side cam front sprocket you can also use a 3/8 extension to rotate it from the front side if you look into the hole you will see a square slot and a 3/8 extension fits perfectly.
Gzkbs
Great information! I can't believe I didn't notice that. Thank you for taking the time to leave that info here to help others, much appreciated!
I just want to say that this video was very helpful. I did the head gaskets and timing with my dad on his truck before watching this video. After putting it all back together it started but it seems like it has a rough idle. No smoke comes out and there is no codes or check engine light. My dad thinks it is possible the the chain on one side might be off by a tooth. Engine runs with out any noise but would the chain being off cause this? Or would valves hit pistons?
Very well done. Great info! What time can you be here?!
Hello Mary and thank you for the compliment! I get asked that question frequently from friends who own this motor, it's a common problem. I may not be able to help you in person but I'm happy to provide you with some input and advice if you need it along the way. Thanks for stopping by!
hello can you tell me this is 5.4 v8 32valve intech ? (navigator 2004 )
This is not the Intech, which is a 4 valve motor, this is the 2 valve motor. Honestly, I have never worked on the Intech so I couldn't tell you if there are any similarities but I doubt that there are. I'm sorry, I wish I could be of more help to you.
On those tension arms, do you put oil on them before installing the timing cover?
Sorry for the newbee question.
Hi Samantha. I didn't in this case because I had been soaking the chains in oil and that was sufficient for my initial startup. If you don't do that it certainly wouldn't hurt to apply some oil or assembly lube to the guides.
Здравствуйте, у меня тоже форд экспедишн. Подскажите пожалуйста какой фирмы комплект грм лучше?
Does the timing chain tensioners have a gasket or seal on them where they make contact to the block?
Hi Keith, the Melling tensioners do not have a gasket or seal. You just tighten them to spec. I know the later model Ford tensioners that are plastic have a seal - they blew out in my wife's Expedition.
Very well done video...the only thing I'm left unsure about is with the cam timing, is it 11 o clock and 12 o clock in relation to heads on the block? Or heads off, if any of that makes sense
Hi Anthony. The 11 and 12 o'clock positioning would be in a vertical plane from the ground, not in relation of the head to the block. The heads are at about a 45 degree tilt along the vertical plane since they are aligned to the decking of the block. Hope that answers your question.
@@javosgarage perfect, thanks!
Awesome video!
Glad you enjoyed it, thanks for stopping by!
I have 480k miles on my original chain. Everything on the truck is original. The chain is beginning to make noise on startup. It this point (milage) I'm not sure if I should replace the chain assembly or not.
Wow, that is amazing! It has to be a record! If you're getting noise it's best to address the problem as quickly as possible if you want to keep your motor from being damaged. What can happen is the chain can slap against the timing cover causing pieces of that aluminum cover to get into the oil aaaaaand... well you know what that can do. You would need to decide if the truck is worth the investment; if so, then I'd get it handled sooner rather than later.. Hope that helps, thanks for stopping by!
I have a 5.4 2v 2004 lightning, I did everything you showed and all went well , After replacing chains to correct marks and releasing the tensioners . I turned the crank bolt / sprocket just to verify that chaines were still in sync/ on the marks. Well i cant get them back in in position even after about 5 complete revolutions. will they evere get back to the My original settings?
They will. I don't remember exactly, but for some reason I remember when I was researching before this project that it takes something like 35 revolutions before all those timing marks align again. If you watch carefully, with each revolution the silver links on your timing chains will advance where they come in contact with the cam sprockets. They will get back there, but you would need to make quite a few revolutions to get there.
So you can assemble everything with the crank at 12 o'clock correct?
Yes you can. There are pluses and minuses with using either the 11 or 12 o'clock positions such as: 1. With the keyway at 12 o'clock the pistons are well below deck. However, to properly align all of your timing marks (cams, crank, chains) will mean your cams will be at a point where they have tension and will want to "jump" to a neutral position. 2. With the keyway at 11 o'clock pistons 1 & 6 are now at TDC so you don't want to move the cams because damage could occur. However, when the timing marks are aligned (cams, crank, chains) the cams will be in a "resting" position with no tension, so they wont want to "jump" forward.
IMHO, the best practice is to align your cams into their general position (as I show in the video) at the 12 o'clock position and then use the crank alignment tool to adjust the crank to 11 o'clock, then you'll see the cams will almost fall into the correct position when you fine tune the placement of all the timing marks. This is better than having the tension you would have with the 12 o'clock position. I hope this makes sense to you.
Just so I understand completely, you were able to rotate your cams clockwise without worrying about damaging your pistons because the pistons were all below deck by 20+ mm since the crank shaft keyway was at 12'oclock TDC correct? So you are able to rotate both cams around to the proper positions without any fear of damage to the pistons? Just wanting to make sure because every other video i've watched, even with the crank shaft keyway at 12 TDC, they make it sound like its really easy to damage the pistons because of the spring tension and it can turn over on you.
Hi Bryan. You are understanding correctly. It sounds like you've watched the entire video but just in case let me say that I address this issue towards the beginning of the video starting at the 00:30 mark. I really tried to back up my opinion of using the 12 o'clock keyway position with hard, photographic proof. That way it's not subjective, it's just the true facts. Trust me, I get it; you just want to make sure you understand what I did. I have done two rebuilds: my son's 5.4 2V and the 5.4 3V from my wife's Expedition. In both cases I was able to leave the keyway at the 12 o'clock position and then rotate the cams to the 11 and 12 positions (then locking them with the hold down tool) to begin installing my timing components. Let me be clear though, I only rotated the cams forward to get to the alignment position, I didn't do more than a 80% rotation (as I did to the LH side in this video) at best. While I'm confident I could rotate the cams as many times as I wanted with the keyway at the 12 o'clock position, let's just say I didn't want to tempt fate so I didn't do multiple rotations. When you use the alignment tool and the keyway is set to the 11 o'clock position you can absolutely do damage if the tension gets away from you. You'll see the way I did it was to loosen the hold down clamps just barely enough to rotate the cam and then immediately lock it down when I got it to where I needed when I did finally rotate the keyway BACK to the 11 o'clock position from the 12 o'clock position.
BTW... DO NOT rotate the crank forward to get to 11, only move it the little bit backwards (counter clockwise) from 12 to 11 as I discuss in the video. I hope that helps you out. Let me know if you have any other questions.
@@javosgarage Thank yoU!
Took me a Day an a half but got it done really got to thank you so very much A blessed Day “
Great job, you saved yourself a lot of cash! So glad to hear my video was able to help you. Thanks for stopping by and taking a moment to leave me a comment.
Thank you sir...this came in handy
You're very welcome. I'm glad to hear it was helpful to you.
Hello and thank you for the very informative videos. I followed them to a tee.
I do have a question. Since rebuilding the front and top of the 5.4 2v, the motor is running good and quieter. But....I now can hear a knocking noise in the lower end. I think it's a rod bearing but not 100% positive. I have a video of the sound and was wondering if I could get your input? Engine sounds can be tricky and before replacing anything I world like your opinions. I will send the video anywhere you would like. Thanks and hope to hear from you.
Dave Rivarchek
Hello Dave, sorry for the late response. I checked your channel and didn't see a video there; if you post it I will gladly check it out. One thing I would suggest would be to get a mechanic's stethoscope, it's really helpful when diagnosing internal noises. You can easily get one at HF or through Amazon. Start with that, if your noise is on the bottom end I would begin with pulling the oil pan so you can do an inspection and check for sloppy play in the connecting rods or main bearings. I had a friend with a similar problem and when we pulled the pan the thrust washers for the crank were laying in the pan! Full rebuild with new crank and heads, then the truck was good to go again. Good luck with your diagnosis, I hope this helps you a bit.
Awesome and very detailed video instruction where can I purchase the melling timing kit?
He also list all products in the description
A Ford mechanic told me do not use the ratcheting tensioners, they put to much pressure on chains promoting faster ware. What do you think? I am working on 2003 4.6, 2 valve.
They do over time they stretch them prematurely. That is why Ford changed from cast to plastic blend tensioner
I'm sold the plastic up graded one are going in.@@Joystickoperator 😄
I’m installing one of these engines in my truck, I’m at the timing chain now.
I hope your project went well and your truck is running great!
Is this the same procedure as with a 2007 4.6 2V??
I believe so, however there may be some updated items. This motor is a 1999 but I believe this should apply. I haven't done this procedure on a 2007 though.
Is this the same for the 4.6l 2V?
I haven't done this procedure on a 4.6L 2V so I can't verify that it would be the same. Sorry. I do have a Mustang with that motor so I'm sure I will at some point but I've been lucky in that it hasn't needed this... yet.
@@javosgarage thanks for answering
Your an awsome mech. Can you PLEASE do some vids on a 2001 Ford Excursion Limited, 6.8L V10? This is actually a popular vehicle but not a whole lot of vids exist for detailed repairs, etc., on it. Thanks.
Thank you for the great compliment! That would be fun but I don't have access to one of those at the moment. I have a friend that has one but his has the 7.3l. You never know though, there may be one somewhere in the future! Thanks for stopping by and taking a moment to leave me a comment.
Yayy! I am always happy when I see you've posted a new video. Thanks for making more engine eye candy! 🍇💚🍇💚🍇💚🍇
You're very welcome. I really appreciate you checking out my new video and then taking the time to leave me such a nice comment. Makes my day. Thank you.
Curious if the ratcheting tensioners retract when the engine is off (no oil pressure).
Hi Brandon. No, they do not. They are a ratchet type so as it extends there teeth that lock it into place so it cannot retract. However, you can use a pin to push in a catch so you can retract it if you need to.
The Melling chains are ruff ,they ruff up the guides
Right side? But the camera is in reverse!
‘03 5.4L 2V (E-series)
Want to replace Intake while front is apart. OE is unobtanium. Suggestions ?
Hi Stan. Unobtanium huh? Never hear that one before but it did make me laugh. I will have to steal that one from you. I'm sorry, I don't have any experience with these motors in the E series. I've looked at a few while at the salvage yard in the past and remember thinking it was really tight in there with little or no room to work. I wish I could give you some great advice here to help you out, I apologize.
👍
Thank you!