Thank you so much for this video. I am struggling with learning the lazer module. Please continue to produce these great videos for those of us SM who are less than competent around this machine.
@@whatcouldgowrong7914 I want to join in on the acknowledgement. Snapmaker did a fantastic job with the A350 itself, but with other things... not so much. The encasement for instance has its problems, like the side door only being placeable on the right side of the printer, which sucks, or the laser still shining through all those gaps. The software, Luban, is a terrible slicer (can't say much about the laser/cnc functionality so far, I am still learning the ropes here anyway) and the documentation of some functions is... ambiguous. I was _not_ aware that when adjusting for the thickness of the workpiece, we are actually talking about the workpiece _and_ the bed, which to be honest does not make sense anyway. At my first try to laser something, I had a hell of a scare, because I was measuring everything _so_ thoroughly and then... the laser crashed full speed into the work piece. Thankfully no damage was done, but still. Also, watch three different videos/tutorials about the laser functionality by Snapmaker and you will end up scratching your head, since you've just watched four (at least) different versions of how things are done. So, videos like your's are _very_ appreciated.
Love this, thank you. I noted your clamping system and have added it to my action list for the future. I have a question: What thickness of feeler gauge did you use? The machine seems to expect something pass below the head with the thickness of A4 paper between the head and the work surface. ...and your process makes that much less (deepening on what you answer regarding the feeler gauge).
Thank you for the video. A bit confused: You measure thickness all the way down to the bed floor and not the top of the ribs? Also, I'd love to learn how you are holding those aluminum profiles to the bed! Perhaps is obvious and you are using existing holes all the way down to the frame and longer screws, something I haven't thought about... Cheers.
I actually measured from the top of the ridges on the bed sorry should have been clearer… That said it just sets where the laser drops down to for the next step. Ill clarify on the next vid. I can also do one about the fences for you :)
How do you get to the manual calibration mode? Mine only goes through the auto calibration. I would swear I used to be able to but now I’m concerned they’ve removed the ability in the latest updates
Ok, so just to make sure I understand. You've established that the optimal focus point for your machine is 3.5 mm off the surface of the material to be burned/cut, and you're using the drill bit, which just happens to have the 3.5 mm profile to serve as a measuring gauge. So, am I correct to assume that if you now wanted to burn something into the wood piece beneath the wood scrap you've burned the test pattern into (looks to me like a bamboo cutting board), you'd remove the test wood scrap, and you'd just drop the laser down onto the bamboo until you had the same 3.5 mm gap as measured by the drill bit? Have I got that right? Because if so, that's brilliant - very helpful.
Correct 🙂 I have uploaded the 2nd part video now explaining how to use the measured laser gap in a new job 👍 But yes any material, any thickness I just drop the laser down to touch off on the drill bit in my case and ready to go!
Thanks for the video. Super interesting as I’m new to the community. Two questions: 1. Wouldn‘t it be sufficient to remember Z-value from Auto-Focus and adapt to the different material thickness instead of finding a fitting drill bit? 2. I‘m still wondering how you would cut through 4 or 5 mm material if your focus is just 3.5mm above the material - besides removing any protective parts from laser. Do you just move the laser up and accept a non-ideal focus? Any experience or trick?
@@jonasmanderscheid8147 1. You can use the auto focus and material thickness but personally I prefer a simple direct measurement for setting up each job rather than stacking offsets and saved measurements in the Snapmaker. My latest video which is up explains why the laser gap is a trivial step when you are doing a manual setup anyway 👍 2. For thicker cuts, you will be doing multiple passes anyway and Luban lets you set the laser step after each pass to maintain focus as the cut gets deeper 🙂
Thank you so much for this video. I am struggling with learning the lazer module. Please continue to produce these great videos for those of us SM who are less than competent around this machine.
Glad this video helps! More to come :)
@@whatcouldgowrong7914 I want to join in on the acknowledgement. Snapmaker did a fantastic job with the A350 itself, but with other things... not so much. The encasement for instance has its problems, like the side door only being placeable on the right side of the printer, which sucks, or the laser still shining through all those gaps. The software, Luban, is a terrible slicer (can't say much about the laser/cnc functionality so far, I am still learning the ropes here anyway) and the documentation of some functions is... ambiguous.
I was _not_ aware that when adjusting for the thickness of the workpiece, we are actually talking about the workpiece _and_ the bed, which to be honest does not make sense anyway. At my first try to laser something, I had a hell of a scare, because I was measuring everything _so_ thoroughly and then... the laser crashed full speed into the work piece. Thankfully no damage was done, but still. Also, watch three different videos/tutorials about the laser functionality by Snapmaker and you will end up scratching your head, since you've just watched four (at least) different versions of how things are done.
So, videos like your's are _very_ appreciated.
Helpful. Thank you.
Love this, thank you. I noted your clamping system and have added it to my action list for the future. I have a question: What thickness of feeler gauge did you use? The machine seems to expect something pass below the head with the thickness of A4 paper between the head and the work surface. ...and your process makes that much less (deepening on what you answer regarding the feeler gauge).
Where to get those clamps? What kind of screws attach to the bed?
I dont have the calibration menu on my machine. Any ideas why?
Thank you for the video. A bit confused: You measure thickness all the way down to the bed floor and not the top of the ribs? Also, I'd love to learn how you are holding those aluminum profiles to the bed! Perhaps is obvious and you are using existing holes all the way down to the frame and longer screws, something I haven't thought about... Cheers.
I actually measured from the top of the ridges on the bed sorry should have been clearer… That said it just sets where the laser drops down to for the next step. Ill clarify on the next vid. I can also do one about the fences for you :)
@@whatcouldgowrong7914 Cool, thank you. I was confused also because I thought I saw the plunger of the caliper go all the way down. :)
@@Yijingman Yeah I was positioning just to touch the top of the ridges haha. Could use a ruler etc but I always use calipers.
How do you get to the manual calibration mode? Mine only goes through the auto calibration. I would swear I used to be able to but now I’m concerned they’ve removed the ability in the latest updates
You should be able to get to it by swiping right to left from the initial screen then select calibration :)
just block the camera and it won't be able to self calibrate. It will then kick you into the manual calibration.
Ok, so just to make sure I understand. You've established that the optimal focus point for your machine is 3.5 mm off the surface of the material to be burned/cut, and you're using the drill bit, which just happens to have the 3.5 mm profile to serve as a measuring gauge. So, am I correct to assume that if you now wanted to burn something into the wood piece beneath the wood scrap you've burned the test pattern into (looks to me like a bamboo cutting board), you'd remove the test wood scrap, and you'd just drop the laser down onto the bamboo until you had the same 3.5 mm gap as measured by the drill bit? Have I got that right? Because if so, that's brilliant - very helpful.
Correct 🙂 I have uploaded the 2nd part video now explaining how to use the measured laser gap in a new job 👍 But yes any material, any thickness I just drop the laser down to touch off on the drill bit in my case and ready to go!
Thanks for the video. Super interesting as I’m new to the community. Two questions:
1. Wouldn‘t it be sufficient to remember Z-value from Auto-Focus and adapt to the different material thickness instead of finding a fitting drill bit?
2. I‘m still wondering how you would cut through 4 or 5 mm material if your focus is just 3.5mm above the material - besides removing any protective parts from laser. Do you just move the laser up and accept a non-ideal focus? Any experience or trick?
@@jonasmanderscheid8147 1. You can use the auto focus and material thickness but personally I prefer a simple direct measurement for setting up each job rather than stacking offsets and saved measurements in the Snapmaker. My latest video which is up explains why the laser gap is a trivial step when you are doing a manual setup anyway 👍
2. For thicker cuts, you will be doing multiple passes anyway and Luban lets you set the laser step after each pass to maintain focus as the cut gets deeper 🙂
Good day mate! Can I have this machine in my garage or I need an open space?
You can but depending what you cut you may need filtration