I just subscribed to your Channel. Was fascinated by the snapmaker laser job workholding. Silicone rubber plugs are nearly worthless for everything but cardboard so I pulled out my design program and designed a new workholding device that can be 3D printed. It's shaped like a piece of T Extrusion. The leg of the T is just wide enough to fit snuggly in the slots on the table. The top of the T is 2 mm thick. Make two of these, mine are 120 mm long. Then make 2 each 2 mm thick wedges. Mine are three degree taper on one side with a 90° angle Square to the other. Bracket your part with the T on both sides and use the wedges to take up the space between the T and the part. I found this works really well on 3 mm thick plywood.
Thanks a lot, this is very appreciated. I've just begun to learn everything laser and this method is definitely the easiest, yet most reliable that I have seen so far. The camera thing does not seem to work for me anyway, for some reason when I try to scan the bed with the workpiece, the camera pretents to make a scan with all the movement and then... shows me a picture of the piece of paper you've used during calibration (the one where the laser makes four cuts). And I can not figure out for the life of me if I am doing something wrong or if my laser/camera module is broken. And since I've made a comment under part I about my laser head crashing into the workpiece , yup, this already happened before that.
Just trying to get into acrylic engraving, love your videos. One question: because of fencing, you have a fixed XY corner that gives you most repeatable origin, why would you not use that lower left corner as the origin while designing the part? Is there an advantage in establishing the origin in the middle of your work piece? Thank you.
In case you still have this problem or someone else having it, this happened with my A350 as well. Setting the laser height to 21 cm or 19 cm manually before adjusting the focus did help, after that, everything seems to work as intented.
Have you cut any fabrics on this? I have been searching top & bottom for info on what kind of wattage I would need & I haven't been able to get a straight answer. The material I'm trying to cut is 50/50 nylon/cotton ripstop. I don't think it's too thick, maybe 1 or 2.5 MM & this adverts for 8MM
The job can be anything you want it to be really layout wise, it just means the work origin in Luban or other program corresponds to the center of your work piece and you layout with that in mind. Obviously there are edge cases where someone might not want this setup but I did this video for novice users who may struggle with a manual setups.
Your process works great, much easier to set focus now, thanks a BUNCH, you can't believe how much time you saved me from constant refocusing.
Thank you for providing this missing information that Snapmaker does not. Really useful.
Best snapmaker tutorials I’ve found so far! Thx 👍
Happy to help :)
I just subscribed to your Channel. Was fascinated by the snapmaker laser job workholding. Silicone rubber plugs are nearly worthless for everything but cardboard so I pulled out my design program and designed a new workholding device that can be 3D printed. It's shaped like a piece of T Extrusion. The leg of the T is just wide enough to fit snuggly in the slots on the table. The top of the T is 2 mm thick. Make two of these, mine are 120 mm long. Then make 2 each 2 mm thick wedges. Mine are three degree taper on one side with a 90° angle Square to the other. Bracket your part with the T on both sides and use the wedges to take up the space between the T and the part. I found this works really well on 3 mm thick plywood.
Thanks a lot, this is very appreciated. I've just begun to learn everything laser and this method is definitely the easiest, yet most reliable that I have seen so far.
The camera thing does not seem to work for me anyway, for some reason when I try to scan the bed with the workpiece, the camera pretents to make a scan with all the movement and then... shows me a picture of the piece of paper you've used during calibration (the one where the laser makes four cuts). And I can not figure out for the life of me if I am doing something wrong or if my laser/camera module is broken. And since I've made a comment under part I about my laser head crashing into the workpiece , yup, this already happened before that.
Thanks and I'm really exited and inspired by your mounting method!
Bedankt, samen met de vorige video is dit zeer duidelijk.
Great video and very interested in your video on the work holders and jig...
Thank you for this.
Thanks for this
When you were setting the origin how did you get the laser to turn on?
Like your setup to secure the material and how to set a fixed position on the plate. Any info on where to get the parts for your setup?
please tell me how to cut plywood 3 mm thickness
Just trying to get into acrylic engraving, love your videos. One question: because of fencing, you have a fixed XY corner that gives you most repeatable origin, why would you not use that lower left corner as the origin while designing the part? Is there an advantage in establishing the origin in the middle of your work piece? Thank you.
You could use either depending on your jobs and workflows :) I normally use centre of actual work pieces as they vary a little :)
THANK YOU, but now my laser (1600) Does not even burn the focus lines. Time to call SM about my SM350, ughhg
In case you still have this problem or someone else having it, this happened with my A350 as well. Setting the laser height to 21 cm or 19 cm manually before adjusting the focus did help, after that, everything seems to work as intented.
Have you cut any fabrics on this? I have been searching top & bottom for info on what kind of wattage I would need & I haven't been able to get a straight answer. The material I'm trying to cut is 50/50 nylon/cotton ripstop. I don't think it's too thick, maybe 1 or 2.5 MM & this adverts for 8MM
Never cut fabric, it may be possible?
Thank you, I really like your setup. Could tell me what software you use and maybe make a video of your process for setting up your g-code files.
This video assumes that you have the job centered along the x/y/z coordinates when you import your job into Luban (if using)?
The job can be anything you want it to be really layout wise, it just means the work origin in Luban or other program corresponds to the center of your work piece and you layout with that in mind. Obviously there are edge cases where someone might not want this setup but I did this video for novice users who may struggle with a manual setups.
Hey,
which drill size do you use?
3.5mm but you nee to measure your own as not every machine is the same