14:26 That low angle shot with the lens flare and the progressing occultation of the LED lighting is really cool, almost worthy of Stanley Kubrick. Peter, a word of warning : if your Mazak ever tells you " I'm sorry, Peter, I'm afraid I can't do that ", you need to pull the plug right away 😊
I see many videos on machine work on RUclips. Just a static shot from one view point. I’m just trying to make things more visually interesting. As well as showing the machine work.Thanks!
@@colinburrows9204 when this machine was built there was no e670 it’s the new model of this machine. The only real difference is 670mm of Y travel instead of 650mm and a slightly different outside cabinet. Or course a newer control as well.
@@colinburrows9204 Your machine has a Capto spindle taper? Also you may be getting sort of a illusion. I have a 16” chuck on this machine. They normally have a 21” chuck.
@@EdgePrecision We still. Have the BT50 taper in our machine, and pretty certain it's a 24" chuck in the E670. It also has the long boring bar option where we have bars up to 2m long, and a bed length of 5m.
As always, excellent video. The different angles were great. One thing i would say is with your camera air knife even with coolant we get a good view, not worth loading up tools risking a breakage. I'm really impressed with your fixtures over the years. Really liked your design for the toe clamps also, the store bought ones leave a lot to be desired. thanx for putting out your videos..
hey Peter how did you disable the hydraulics on your chuck to run 4 jaw chuck? actuator not working anymore? solenoid unit? what did it take basically? thanks
The Hydraulics aren't disabled. I removed the draw tube and just clamped the chuck. Everything is still there. The machine thinks the chuck is clamped so it runs. One other thing (This may not be a problem for all machines. This machine has a weep hole in the spindle back by the hydraulic actuator. Normally this isn't a problem with the draw tube installed. I didn't know this at first until I got a bunch of coolant on the floor (much later). Most of my first jobs there wasn't a lot of coolant going into the spindle bore so this wasn't noticeable from the outside of the machine. The small coolant did however get slung onto the timing belt for the spindles encoder that times threading operations. It eventually damaged the belt so it slipped teeth. I didn't realize this till it scrapped a part cross threading a thread. So what I have done to avoid this problem on this machine is to put one of those air inflatable spindle plug/bladders back in the spindle by the hydraulic actuator. The spindle is almost four feet long on this machine. So I have never had a problem with that interfering with a part, I have done. On this machine it really isn't possible to run a part going all the way thru the spindle because the back of the spindle is not accessible. It is inside the cabinet behind the hydraulic pumps/chiller unit. But if you do this check for any way coolant can get out of the spindle and not drain down the actuators drain tube. I would also recommend putting the cap on the end of the spindle if you are boring something that's causing a lot of shavings and coolant to go down the spindle (That is if you don't have a plug/bladder). They can be forced into the actuators end between the housing that doesn't rotate and cause damage.
Thanks for taking me along for the ride. I always question why you design your fixtures the way you do and by the end of the video or series I understand. Great job as always.
Я не уверен, что это положительный комментарий. Но я собираюсь принять это так. Если так, то он был бы одним из очень немногих, вышедших из России. Так что спасибо, если это так. Лично я ничего не имею против русских. Хотя мое правительство постоянно извергает пропаганду в адрес вашей страны. Что касается бизнес-плана, я понятия не имею, как все работает в России.
hola peter..muy buen trabajo el realizar esa especie de trunnion table..me gusta mucho como realizaste todo el proceso..gracias por tu tiempo..un saludo
¡Gracias! También tengo un dispositivo similar para sujetar un tornillo de banco en esta máquina. Con este tipo de fijaciones, esta máquina se convierte en una máquina completa de cinco ejes.
I don't know if you'll hang onto this fixture for some possible future use, but if not it'd make a hell of a work bench or coffee table. Thank you as always for taking us along on the adventure.
I'm curious about your methodology with tool touch offs. Wouldn't it be less math and possibility for error by touching off some sort of fixed reference vs a feature on the part? I'm sure you have your reasons and I'd love to learn them from you.
One nice feature of the Mazatrol Control on this machine. It shows on the display the actual location of the tools tip in relation to the active work offset. In the milling mode it shows you the radius up from centerline in the turning mode the diameter. So it is extremely easy to manually touch off tools. easer and faster the the tool probe (Assuming it was working. But it isn't on this machine). Once I turn a face and a diameter with the turning tools that are already set. Than measure that diameter. That is the reference to set the other tools on. If I used a reference location (This would work) the math would actually be more complicated (This is what the tool probes do). But by touching the tool say on the diameter with a 1/2" dowell pin the display should read 1" larger than that diameter (The Diameter + twice the pin diameter). Easy jus don't move the tool before you make your entries. Or a milling tool the location in X should be the radius of the diameter + the pins diameter. The beauty is you can see on the display exactly where the tool (Assuming you didn't move it!) is before you run it. Because you have already done the simple calculation and entered it. The display's reading verifies your math before anything happens. If you used a reference location you touch off do your calculation but its not really verified to your part, just to location for that purpose. So when you run the tool for the first time. You have to stop at the clearance move in single block than open the doors look and maybe take something, say a scale or block to compare where the tool is to your part. Or you could be bold and just let it run. But that's how crashes happen. On my Mitsubishi mill I use a toolsetter on the bench. But when I run the tool the first time. I always program to rapid 1.0" from the top of the part (Usually the Z zero). So as the tool approaches the work on that move. I push feed hold. Than look at the distance to go display (Remember I have single block enabled). If that distance to go wont hit anything. I push start and let it go to the end of the move. It stops at the end of that move in single block. With the machine stopped I can use a 1,2,3 blocks 1.0" thickness to compare to the tools location. Than in the program I turn on the spindle and coolant after that move. Doing this will eliminate accidents of running the tool into the work with the offset set wrong. But you see all that has to be done with the toolsetter because you don't see after you entered the number on the offset page the actual location in relation to reality or the part. You have to run the tool first. On the Mazak the tool is already setting there and the display reads the actual location after you did your calculations and entries on the offset in the control. No mistakes or errors. That's a long explanation hope that makes some sense.
I have already used this on the parts. It's working fine. But the stiffener bars are absolutely necessary. In the next video you will see me mill a pocket thru. Than you will understand the reason for the bars.
Excellent video once again Peter. Interesting to see your process and I love the attention to detail. It’s impressive how much effort can go into fixturing. Thanks for all the work you put into these videos!
I don't think the aluminum build up was from lack of coolant so much as you were using an end mill meant for steel. An uncoated or polished end mill and you don't get that build up, wet or dry.
@@SupremeRuleroftheWorld he is experiencing chatter though that's a good collet chuck why does this happen??? maybe use 3 flute EMs? instead and run slower this is not clear i only go high RPM for chamfers
I often think I'm feeding my OCD while designing fixtures. I think to myself is it worth the time to bevel an edge that could play no part in the production intended from the fixture itself. Call me crazy but the job is rewarding when it's done right.
Every time i see Mazak turning aluminium i can`t help but wonder what`s the max RPM on the spindle. It spins considerably fast when facing, yet maintains power at low RPM.
This machine has a two speed head stock. Low range goes from 0- 460 RPM and high range from 0-1600 RPM. the turning spindle has 60 Hp. In this video I had it in high range but my program was limited to 1000 RPM. So it will reach with constant surface speed a 1000 RPM on the facing cut. I don't remember but I think the program was running around 700 SPM at .012 feed.
@@EdgePrecision Thank you, it cleared things up. I thought maximum was higher, though I forgot that the video is often sped up and skewes perception a bit. Also, when dealing with such diameters, 1600 is probably plenty for maintaining required SFM. Big thank you for your content and replies, always educational and interesting!
What a privilege to watch a Master create works of exquisite beauty, I've no idea what your fixture is going to do, but it TOTALLY could be on display at an art exhibit!
You are awesome. I love seeing the sausage being made. I first came across your anvil videos. It was cool seeing a professional setting tool length with a dowel pin.. We do that all the time for one offs and such. Such a easy hack.
Peter, I've been wondering, since you have about the perfect machine for it, have you tried out Sandvik's Prime turning tools at all? They seem choice for productivity on multitasking machines like your Integrex, but I didn't know if you could justify the return on investment for the optimized material removal, if for that matter you're even that concerned about that. Thanks for another great video!
Interesting, steel stiffeners on an aluminum part. Are they part of whatever the finished part is, or just for machining? Or, it occurs to me, is this whole part a flat-bed fixture to machine some other part?
There is going to be a pocket (you will see in the next video) cut thru the aluminum plate. The steel bars on the sides are necessary to keep the strength after that.
Hi I have a Question. Why do you use a end mill instead of a Mill cutter head* it would save a lot of time? Edit: from 3.50-4.20 min. *sorry if i use the wrong word, im from germany but i think you get it. 😅😄 Greetings!
I think the word you are looking for is a face mill or maybe a inserted cutter. I videos I don’t necessarily do machining in the most efficient way. Some times I do what is more visually interesting. It’s only just one part for a fixture so efficiently is not as important as convince and what tool I have at the time.
@@EdgePrecision yeah thats what i mean i forgot the word. I understand that, keep up with your videos i really enjoy them especially because i'm a apprentice in the second year where i start to program and your videos/Explanations answeared some questions of mine. After my education i want to make my Master's certificate just like my father. Thanks for the answear. 😊
@@EdgePrecision . Completely agree what tools you have loaded in the machine and what is holding size and can be repeated when being used. I asked in one of videos . Is this a mazak E410. I program and run a mazak 200, 400 Y older control 640 fusion Mazatrol with some G code
I couldn't see the holder for the small tap, the holder for the big tap is OK, but if its rigid like that on the small one, and not a proper tap holder then this will explain the stress with spiral tapping. Look up the Big Kaiser tapping holders. We have tested and used everything, these are the top of the tree. The data they show is real. Good luck friend.
I have run 0-80 taps chucked in a collet with no problem. I do have a bilz tap chuck for large tap. But I always run small ones in a collet chuck without a problem. The 3/8-16 tap is in a ER16 extension to clear the vertical wall next to the holes.
14:26 That low angle shot with the lens flare and the progressing occultation of the LED lighting is really cool, almost worthy of Stanley Kubrick. Peter, a word of warning : if your Mazak ever tells you " I'm sorry, Peter, I'm afraid I can't do that ", you need to pull the plug right away 😊
I see many videos on machine work on RUclips. Just a static shot from one view point. I’m just trying to make things more visually interesting. As well as showing the machine work.Thanks!
@@EdgePrecision 14:53 was great, just watching the world outside slide on by...
Actually, his Mazak knows better then to tell him that :)
2021, A Mazak Oddity
Be careful Peter, with this style of filming and editing you could get few hundred subscribers
Now that's a fixture!
Looks very much like a Mazak. E670.
E650.
@@EdgePrecision Was just thinking the tools looked a little larger in comparison. It's the E670 I use as you can probably tell
@@colinburrows9204 when this machine was built there was no e670 it’s the new model of this machine. The only real difference is 670mm of Y travel instead of 650mm and a slightly different outside cabinet. Or course a newer control as well.
@@colinburrows9204 Your machine has a Capto spindle taper? Also you may be getting sort of a illusion. I have a 16” chuck on this machine. They normally have a 21” chuck.
@@EdgePrecision We still. Have the BT50 taper in our machine, and pretty certain it's a 24" chuck in the E670. It also has the long boring bar option where we have bars up to 2m long, and a bed length of 5m.
Hiya Peter
Nice work old craftman..! ! :) 5 stars - Fitter and Tig Welder Jonas in CPH
Lächerlich, zu wenig Vorschub
I LEARN CNC 1 YEARS..BUT I HAVE NO BRAIN FOR THIS.TODAY I WORK IN HIGH TECH...RESTROOM CLEEANER😂😂😂😂
Very nice!
All I want for Christmas now is some text in the corner with material, tool geometry, feeds and speeds for each cut :-)
I wish you made tooling for us 🙂
As always, excellent video. The different angles were great. One thing i would say is with your camera air knife even with coolant we get a good view, not worth loading up tools risking a breakage. I'm really impressed with your fixtures over the years. Really liked your design for the toe clamps also, the store bought ones leave a lot to be desired. thanx for putting out your videos..
hey Peter how did you disable the hydraulics on your chuck to run 4 jaw chuck?
actuator not working anymore? solenoid unit? what did it take basically?
thanks
The Hydraulics aren't disabled. I removed the draw tube and just clamped the chuck. Everything is still there. The machine thinks the chuck is clamped so it runs. One other thing (This may not be a problem for all machines. This machine has a weep hole in the spindle back by the hydraulic actuator. Normally this isn't a problem with the draw tube installed. I didn't know this at first until I got a bunch of coolant on the floor (much later). Most of my first jobs there wasn't a lot of coolant going into the spindle bore so this wasn't noticeable from the outside of the machine. The small coolant did however get slung onto the timing belt for the spindles encoder that times threading operations. It eventually damaged the belt so it slipped teeth. I didn't realize this till it scrapped a part cross threading a thread. So what I have done to avoid this problem on this machine is to put one of those air inflatable spindle plug/bladders back in the spindle by the hydraulic actuator. The spindle is almost four feet long on this machine. So I have never had a problem with that interfering with a part, I have done. On this machine it really isn't possible to run a part going all the way thru the spindle because the back of the spindle is not accessible. It is inside the cabinet behind the hydraulic pumps/chiller unit. But if you do this check for any way coolant can get out of the spindle and not drain down the actuators drain tube. I would also recommend putting the cap on the end of the spindle if you are boring something that's causing a lot of shavings and coolant to go down the spindle (That is if you don't have a plug/bladder). They can be forced into the actuators end between the housing that doesn't rotate and cause damage.
Hey man nice work, just wondering why you use the coated tools for ally or are they all you have ?
The tooling is just what I have in my tooling cabinet. For making a fixture I don't want to buy special tooling.
Thanks for the tapping tips. I've only been thread milling because I'm scared to tap but maybe I'll try it now.
fun to watch
king
Thanks for taking me along for the ride. I always question why you design your fixtures the way you do and by the end of the video or series I understand. Great job as always.
В начале видео надо бизнес план писать за сколько и как окупить это чудо в России.
Я не уверен, что это положительный комментарий. Но я собираюсь принять это так. Если так, то он был бы одним из очень немногих, вышедших из России. Так что спасибо, если это так. Лично я ничего не имею против русских. Хотя мое правительство постоянно извергает пропаганду в адрес вашей страны. Что касается бизнес-плана, я понятия не имею, как все работает в России.
hola peter..muy buen trabajo el realizar esa especie de trunnion table..me gusta mucho como realizaste todo el proceso..gracias por tu tiempo..un saludo
¡Gracias! También tengo un dispositivo similar para sujetar un tornillo de banco en esta máquina. Con este tipo de fijaciones, esta máquina se convierte en una máquina completa de cinco ejes.
@@EdgePrecision ciertamente peter tu maquina es una pasada y con los accesorios se vuelve imbatible
Awesome as always. Thanks peter
I don't know if you'll hang onto this fixture for some possible future use, but if not it'd make a hell of a work bench or coffee table. Thank you as always for taking us along on the adventure.
I'm curious about your methodology with tool touch offs. Wouldn't it be less math and possibility for error by touching off some sort of fixed reference vs a feature on the part? I'm sure you have your reasons and I'd love to learn them from you.
One nice feature of the Mazatrol Control on this machine. It shows on the display the actual location of the tools tip in relation to the active work offset. In the milling mode it shows you the radius up from centerline in the turning mode the diameter. So it is extremely easy to manually touch off tools. easer and faster the the tool probe (Assuming it was working. But it isn't on this machine). Once I turn a face and a diameter with the turning tools that are already set. Than measure that diameter. That is the reference to set the other tools on. If I used a reference location (This would work) the math would actually be more complicated (This is what the tool probes do). But by touching the tool say on the diameter with a 1/2" dowell pin the display should read 1" larger than that diameter (The Diameter + twice the pin diameter). Easy jus don't move the tool before you make your entries. Or a milling tool the location in X should be the radius of the diameter + the pins diameter. The beauty is you can see on the display exactly where the tool (Assuming you didn't move it!) is before you run it. Because you have already done the simple calculation and entered it. The display's reading verifies your math before anything happens. If you used a reference location you touch off do your calculation but its not really verified to your part, just to location for that purpose. So when you run the tool for the first time. You have to stop at the clearance move in single block than open the doors look and maybe take something, say a scale or block to compare where the tool is to your part. Or you could be bold and just let it run. But that's how crashes happen. On my Mitsubishi mill I use a toolsetter on the bench. But when I run the tool the first time. I always program to rapid 1.0" from the top of the part (Usually the Z zero). So as the tool approaches the work on that move. I push feed hold. Than look at the distance to go display (Remember I have single block enabled). If that distance to go wont hit anything. I push start and let it go to the end of the move. It stops at the end of that move in single block. With the machine stopped I can use a 1,2,3 blocks 1.0" thickness to compare to the tools location. Than in the program I turn on the spindle and coolant after that move. Doing this will eliminate accidents of running the tool into the work with the offset set wrong. But you see all that has to be done with the toolsetter because you don't see after you entered the number on the offset page the actual location in relation to reality or the part. You have to run the tool first. On the Mazak the tool is already setting there and the display reads the actual location after you did your calculations and entries on the offset in the control. No mistakes or errors. That's a long explanation hope that makes some sense.
@@EdgePrecision .
Couldn't had milled that large acute angle with a shell mill?
It is going to be interesting to see how heavy of a cut requires 3 inches of steel to stiffen a 1 and a half inch thick aluminum plate.
I have already used this on the parts. It's working fine. But the stiffener bars are absolutely necessary. In the next video you will see me mill a pocket thru. Than you will understand the reason for the bars.
hello i always watch your videos i would like to learn what you do greetings very good job.
Excellent video once again Peter. Interesting to see your process and I love the attention to detail. It’s impressive how much effort can go into fixturing. Thanks for all the work you put into these videos!
Very interesting! But I miss your excellent voice over. For a novice like my self your explanation gives your videos such more depth.
Amazing what can be done on Todays CNC Machines..
You're awsome dude, love your videos Thx always for allowing us to see how its done, the good, the bad, and sometimes even the ugly.
The air knife is working excellently, I must say.
Very interesting set up. Thank you for doing this video
Haha 3:43, I thought you'd gone for a split screen there for a moment! :)
I don't think the aluminum build up was from lack of coolant so much as you were using an end mill meant for steel. An uncoated or polished end mill and you don't get that build up, wet or dry.
I agree the coating isn't correct for aluminum. But that doesn't happen when machining with coolant on the same kind of end mill.
@@EdgePrecision please run coolant when possible. there is no reason to mess up endmills for a few seconds of footage.
@@SupremeRuleroftheWorld he is experiencing chatter though
that's a good collet chuck why does this happen???
maybe use 3 flute EMs? instead and run slower
this is not clear i only go high RPM for chamfers
@@fredrezfield1629 feeds and speeds. and alu is a b itch of a material to cut. i prefer roughing mills and just a 2~3 flute for finishing.
So cool! Thanks for sharing.
Very nice ... Your cameraskills are getting better and better ✌️😊✌️
I often think I'm feeding my OCD while designing fixtures. I think to myself is it worth the time to bevel an edge that could play no part in the production intended from the fixture itself. Call me crazy but the job is rewarding when it's done right.
What I was wondering Peter, is why do you (still?) have small machines back home when you have the real deal at work?
The shop I work at doesn't like the idea of me doing personal projects on their time
Excellent as always. Thanks for sharing.
Every time i see Mazak turning aluminium i can`t help but wonder what`s the max RPM on the spindle. It spins considerably fast when facing, yet maintains power at low RPM.
This machine has a two speed head stock. Low range goes from 0- 460 RPM and high range from 0-1600 RPM. the turning spindle has 60 Hp. In this video I had it in high range but my program was limited to 1000 RPM. So it will reach with constant surface speed a 1000 RPM on the facing cut. I don't remember but I think the program was running around 700 SPM at .012 feed.
@@EdgePrecision Thank you, it cleared things up. I thought maximum was higher, though I forgot that the video is often sped up and skewes perception a bit. Also, when dealing with such diameters, 1600 is probably plenty for maintaining required SFM. Big thank you for your content and replies, always educational and interesting!
that chatter on all the roughing makes me cringe inside. i cant have my tools doing that or it drives me crazy, roughing or not
The cameras mic actually makes that sound worse that is is. Also the video is sped up.
This is a cool project. Thanks for all your videos Peter.
What a privilege to watch a Master create works of exquisite beauty, I've no idea what your fixture is going to do, but it TOTALLY could be on display at an art exhibit!
You are awesome. I love seeing the sausage being made. I first came across your anvil videos. It was cool seeing a professional setting tool length with a dowel pin.. We do that all the time for one offs and such. Such a easy hack.
Fantastic camera work. Thanks Peter.
Peter, I've been wondering, since you have about the perfect machine for it, have you tried out Sandvik's Prime turning tools at all? They seem choice for productivity on multitasking machines like your Integrex, but I didn't know if you could justify the return on investment for the optimized material removal, if for that matter you're even that concerned about that. Thanks for another great video!
I have never used prime turning tools. I do have a friend who owns a shop who has. He wasn’t impressed with it.
Superb as usual.
Nice drinks tray,
Bit Exy though!
Interesting, steel stiffeners on an aluminum part. Are they part of whatever the finished part is, or just for machining? Or, it occurs to me, is this whole part a flat-bed fixture to machine some other part?
There is going to be a pocket (you will see in the next video) cut thru the aluminum plate. The steel bars on the sides are necessary to keep the strength after that.
What a great idea.... hats off 👏
I love watching that Mazak run. Is that odd?
Excellent work! Keep the great videos coming.
When your running an end mill to cut a 60 center, in your part. to allow for a tailstock. Do you do a spring pass? Thanks
If I was doing it for that reason yes I would run a spring pass.
Is there just one offset per tool? Essentially what amounts to a length offset per tool?
Hi
I have a Question.
Why do you use a end mill instead of a Mill cutter head* it would save a lot of time? Edit: from 3.50-4.20 min.
*sorry if i use the wrong word, im from germany but i think you get it. 😅😄
Greetings!
I think the word you are looking for is a face mill or maybe a inserted cutter. I videos I don’t necessarily do machining in the most efficient way. Some times I do what is more visually interesting. It’s only just one part for a fixture so efficiently is not as important as convince and what tool I have at the time.
@@EdgePrecision yeah thats what i mean i forgot the word.
I understand that, keep up with your videos i really enjoy them especially because i'm a apprentice in the second year where i start to program and your videos/Explanations answeared some questions of mine. After my education i want to make my Master's certificate just like my father.
Thanks for the answear. 😊
@@EdgePrecision . Completely agree what tools you have loaded in the machine and what is holding size and can be repeated when being used. I asked in one of videos . Is this a mazak E410. I program and run a mazak 200, 400 Y older control 640 fusion Mazatrol with some G code
@@aaronmcclain1279 this machine is a e650H.
great video as always peter, did you manage to fix the broken chip conveyor?
No I haven’t had enough free time between jobs to get into it.
WAY TO GO PETER That is the way you do it .
You tha Man Peter! Hey, what was that tool holder that you kinda point out @6:04? Thanks
C8 Extension I believe
Really cool stuff, Peter! Would you say that's the biggest fixtures you've made for you Mazak?
No I once made one out of a 10” diameter aluminum bar almost 10 feet long.
@@EdgePrecision Those sleeves were pretty cool!
Another top notch video!!
Ок
I couldn't see the holder for the small tap, the holder for the big tap is OK, but if its rigid like that on the small one, and not a proper tap holder then this will explain the stress with spiral tapping. Look up the Big Kaiser tapping holders. We have tested and used everything, these are the top of the tree. The data they show is real. Good luck friend.
I have run 0-80 taps chucked in a collet with no problem. I do have a bilz tap chuck for large tap. But I always run small ones in a collet chuck without a problem. The 3/8-16 tap is in a ER16 extension to clear the vertical wall next to the holes.
Awesome video can’t wait to see parts run on it!!
Unfortunately I can’t show the actual part I will be machining on this fixture. My customer said to show the fixture was OK but not the part. Sorry.
Thanks for showing what you can, I know what you mean about respecting the Customer I have a shop too and can completely understand