Garden Room Workshop Extra | Plinth foundations
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- Опубликовано: 28 май 2020
- Find the full series playlist here: bit.ly/2BiLSyC
In this quick video we take a look at the option of using plinth/concrete pad foundations for timber-frame buildings and compare them to dense concrete block foundations that I used for my garden room build.
Chris Wigley gives some first hand shots of these pads in action with the various metal brackets for different joins. He purchased 2.5 tonne plinths from Easy Pads which support single storey timber buildings up to 20m2. He bought just before lockdown (result of the 2020 pandemic for people of the future!) so had to make the decision to buy or not rather quickly.
There are smaller and bigger ones available. Swift Plinths is another manufacturer worth looking at if you decide these are for you. Enjoy!
🌍My website - www.alidymock.com
📸Instagram - / alidymock
💌 Email - hello@alidymock.com 
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I've just binged on all of the videos on this playlist and I must say a big Thank You because it is the best set of videos on this subject that I have found on RUclips. There really is nothing quite like it out there. The amount of detail is amazing and you have a great presentation style. Thank you:)
Thank you. Very useful
Going to be having a crack at a lean to garden Room over the summer, watched your whole series buddy. Very informative 👍👍👍
Excellent instructions, well done 👏
Just starting out on my build now. About to break ground on Friday so these videos have been amazing! Thank you!!
That taper of the roof joists is an excellent idea and really opens up the front. Some I’ll be doing too I think!! Thanks
I think I'd have liked to see a second nut on the thread so you can lock the two together, stopping any movement
Excellent video. Exactly the info I was looking at. Planning a 5m x 3.5m. Was originally thinking a concrete base but prefer this idea to get more air flow underneath the building. Also easier to put back to lawn in the future if I was ever to remove the building.
Great stuff again.
i filled and compacted a tyre and laid the cement blocks over it
used clear hose/water for getting the level right .
once again thanks for sharing
woah. That sounds cool. Using water to determine level is smart!
Hi Ali, thanks for all the great content. My build is rather modest by comparison but have found your videos incredibly helpful through the design process. Making steady progress now and hoping to raise the walls this weekend!
Well done Mark. More modest is probably sensible heheh
Short and sweet yet still super informative. I love the graphics you use Ali; they support what you're saying perfectly and sharing other viewers' workshop builds is great for even more inspiration 😃👍
😊 I sometimes think about going 3D with the slides!
@@AliDymock will I need to dig out my 3D glasses ? 😆
Hey mate really enjoying your in-depth videos as a new subscriber and someone researching construction methods in order to build an office myself. I saw you changed the block plinth design and cemented the blocks together. Could you do a video on the correct method for the block plinths? Thanks again
I have seen people pour concrete into buckets, worth looking into if you are on a budget.
Yup, many ways to skin a cat. I quite like those cardboard tubes too
Well I went with the concrete blocks, done 9 with extra blocks in between on my 5.2 x 3.2 ,,, and I'm waiting for 9am to start the walls 😁 it's been a struggle in this heat but all the hard bits are done. Also I picked epdm which in my opinion looks like the best option. Thanks again Ali as everything you have uploaded has really helped me build what I'm building.
Foundations are the hardest and most important. It starts to take shape quickly after that.
Interesting and informative series, did you finish of the garden room and what option did you use for the grade 0 or Euroclass B cladding?
A truly brilliant set if videos but I was wondering if you have a final list of the materials used and a rough idea of the cost? I did not see anything in the video relating to design
Love it
Hey Ali, have you considered the Jouplast plinths? Thanks
Hi Ali. Does this foundations take traction/ pull out? From what I see, no. Is there a solution out thear to take pullout?
Thanks.
Hey ALI. Great videos.
Did you manage to finish the outside of the garden workshop??
The last I seen was the membrane still on it
Yeh I’ll be finishing the series. Some other stuff took precedent and I wanted to support those beginning their builds this summer as a priority.
Useful review. As a point of note, whilst the brackets are listed as anti corrosion plated I wonder about the supporting screw-thread and nut. You might never need to adjust this, but I can imagine this would turn into a solid block of rust at some point.
I've never seen one of these in the flesh, just on this video, but shouldn't there be a large galvanised/stainless washer between the nut and the concrete? It offends the engineer in me!
Hi Ali
Just checked back to your channel page to get a refresh on wall framing around the windows (this weekends task) and noticed this extra video
I used 15 of these on an 8x4m base (on sloping ground) and can confirm they don't wobble excessively if you stick to the recommended 100mm of adjustment (which I assumed was in the range 0-100mm). This leaves plenty of support inside the (sleeved) hole.
The small amount of play that remained disappeared when the base was bolted down (as speculated by Justin).
However, what has started to worry me, is that since I have been working on the base I have noticed that one or two of the mid-span nuts have come loose and can now be turned easily with finger pressure - in fact one whole span of one of the short side walls was floating above its mid-span jack. I assume this is due to power tool vibration caused by me adding the insulation, ply and now three out of four external walls.
Of-course I can thread-lock the outer ones - but - if the three central pads which are now inaccessible on my project have done this I am (un)screwed.
Perhaps Chris has not reached this stage yet - or - has been smarter than me and added thread-lock (BTW there is nothing in my documentation to say I should have done that).
The center pads are the ones to worry about as you wont be able to get at them in the future.
Hope this saves someone else the trouble I may now have...
Thanks Ray, that's really good to know. I'll pin this comment. I'd not heard of thread-lock but looks great as it prevents the nut from loosening but if you need to adjust it can be broken and then reapplied. Here's a link for anyone looking: amzn.to/3eQ9A3g
That's definitely what I would use if I went down this foundation route.
Great Series Ali - it has inspired me to gave it a go myself. My intended Summer House may be used to house my inflatable Hot Tub. I wont be doing plasterboard but instead it will be ply lined and I will be fitting an extractor fan (or 2) . It will be fully insulated and roof construction will be cold roof type to keep overall height to a maximum of 2.5m and floor size will be 3m x 3m. But my question is about floor construction and foundations given the weight of a 1.8m inflatable spa full of water and 4 people in it! I think this will be around 1,800 KG or 555Kg per square meter (or 115Lbs/ft2 in old money) and that of course doesn't take account of the buildings itself. I was going to go for your cement block pillar supports. Will this be OK - what spacing should I use and what spacing/size floor joists should I go for?
Corr that does heavy. If it were me and I couldn't use concrete (first choice) I'd just go really close with the blocks under the spa. There is information out there on what weight joist thicknesses/spans will take so have a google and see what you find. Definitely doable though!
I'm planning a shed/workshop 9m x 3.5m and was looking at the screw as well the type that looks like a screw, but I've been looking at making my own, I'm a toolmaker, the base would be made from channel. I did a decking and made some M20 adjustable legs and concreted them in, it worked well but a pain in the rear to get concrete into the holes, I did over engineer the project. I would love to see how others have got on using the ground screw. Top video as usual 👍
That's a good size and shape. Looks like I might have someone to share their experience with ground screws so could be soon! As for over-engineering, I'm all for it for your own home :) You could weld some brackets? No idea how you'd make ground screws, sounds like wizardry to me.
@@AliDymock thanks for getting back, I've found if you watch some crazy Russians videos on building machines from broken lardas anything is possible 🤭. For a living I have to over design press tools to last 15 years (with proper maintenance), watching your videos is great and educational 👍.
I have just seen your comment after these months and oakwood garden rooms on youtube have a relatively simple and what seems relatively inexpensive DIY screwed rod system for foundations which seems to work well
@@sm2649 hi, what type is that, im still in design stage
Could you attach yor building to a house like an extension if so what would you recommend for foundation would it be the same thanks love the videos
Yes you could, it's not uncommon for extensions to made of timber for floor, walls and roof but blocks/bricks tend to be more common as does a concrete base. The side issue if you're within 1m of a boundary makes it much simpler to make out of blocks and render or brick though
I'd be really tempted to try and fabricate something, famous last words but I cant imagine it would be too hard. Should probably watch your other vid first though :)
It can definitely be done by pouring concrete into a container and then putting a threaded rod in before it sets
I also had a look at ground screws as I liked the idea of less waste, no concrete and speeding up the build. But for my 4x3m build, I needed 12 with a total cost of £412 - it was too much compared to block foundations.
Yeh the conclusion for screws be the same as these plinths, pretty good but pricey. We’ll see, got someone who has used them now
@@AliDymock I just self installed 20x screws so if you want feedback on this option let me know 👍🏻
I plan to build a 4x3m garden room on land that slopes from back to front. 12inchs. I thought the use of easy pads might be a good idea as I can put the front pads at ground level and bury the rear pads.
Someone has mentioned to me about concerns over the frost line. Can anyone shed any more light on this and how this impacts on the use of these pads?
Easypad website suggests that the pads can sit on or below ground level
Would love to see a video on manually applied ground screws/screw piles. Thank you both for this one, these were a contender.
I've also been looking at ground screws, but so far I've only found one UK vendor for DIY screws and they run at ~£35 per screw with mounting hardware.
Why website was that at Paul? Looking myself
@@proteincloud2650 Search: The Ground Screw Centre
@@Paul-XCIV2 Hi. Did you go for these in the end? i'm very close to pushing the button myself so any feedback/considerations would be great? Thanks.
@@anthonybrown5550 No my build is not happening until next year (if we can even get materials easily after Jan customs changes) but I'm still mulling over the time vs. cost of Ali's approach vs. these screws.
@@Paul-XCIV2 other than cost did you have any reservations with use ground screws and/or the ground screw centre?
I am currently researching how to replace my old (asbestos) garage with a new slightly larger unit that has two internal rooms. A workshop area for me, and a gym for her! These pads look like they would be must easier, and less work. I did want to do blocks, like you have done, but have found it incredibly hard to source sand! Also, ground screws look great too, but these seem very expensive, and my concern with doing this as a DIY job is going down and hitting a pipe/wires and causing a whole load of bother.
I did like the point of taking the foundation with you if you move :D
Assuming sand shortage is Covid related? It should get easier to source soon as restrictions are easing and companies are finding ways to work safely. Plaster was very very scarce, but boards at least are starting to show up. So fingers crossed for you. Also I *think* some retailers aren’t selling shortage items online, only in store. So worth physically checking perhaps?
Ali thanks for sharing this, I have been looking at these and did think they were expensive, does anyone think it would be possible to combine the two ideas and use blocks like yours, but drill a hole to take the brackets from the pad system, as i think they can be bought separately?
That’s an interesting idea, basically make the concrete bit yourself. I don’t see why not. I reckon a lot of the cost is in the transport (delivery) of the concrete pads so yeh, like it!
The cost is pretty much the same. Once you buy zinc rods, metal plates and so on the price comes out quite high. Blocks have been used forever and work just fine.
We're thinking about using "ground screws" for our build. They seem like they may be easier to install and don't require bedding, concrete, etc.
I'm thinking this too but quotes are twice that of these blocks it seams, humm
@@atheistyler Yeah, they are quite pricey. Amazon sell sets for small structures that are more affordable - but they don't seem appropriate for garden rooms. www.amazon.co.uk/Maxerio-Diameter-fundament-foundation-drilling/dp/B07N45Y81Z (you probably want the longer ones for heavier loading)
@@ashleydawson5070 I've just installed 20x ground screws from TheGroundScrewCentre. Happy to share my experiences if you drop me a message
@@anthonybrown5550 I`m interested how your Ground Screws went? - easy to use / how much were they?, thx
Been quoted 6.5k for a concrete base for my log cabin (6mx6m). So quite a size...do you think these would be a good alternative and would take the weight/not sink into the ground? Thanks
The wont be unstable with two point fixing on the timber
I reckon you're right.
Another question for you Ali. What's the exterior finish you've gone for and why?
Hey Chris, I'm going to have to cover this in a future video as too much to sum up but am looking at red cedar on the front and metal sheeting on the back and left side.
At 3 mins - where can I buy those brackets you are screwing in?
Ali how is your build holding up without your bottom blocks not being cemented? Would anyone a bottom block to compressed hardcore? Loving the channel Ali - really great content. Looking forward to the big reveal 😜
Just realised that second sentence is missing a few words! The question was would anyone cement a bottom block on compacted hardcore?
Absolutely Shaha. I’d say to do it again I would dig deeper, cement first block to hardcore, build up from there then pour concrete all round then up to ground level.
That said, mine are totally fine, strong as the day I laid them 💪
Hey Ali, what do you think of ground screw
yeh pretty good by the looks of them, very easy to get in the ground and seem to hold up well - looks like a decent choice.
Need to know more about this 😮. Beats trying to do a 5 inch
35’x35’ slab with rebar by my lonesome right?
**£Anyone know if this will work ok down on the panhandle?
My home is about 15 miles north of the Pensacola area and I want to at least get a foundation started for a 35x35 wood workshop/billiards room I want to build. It’s mostly compacted sand around here, but a good amount normal grass that grows and it is not clay. One could possibly build an oversized flat concrete mold under it or is that even needed?
It mentions my whole story&question halfway through the video. Found it and now we can all keep moving along with our list of projects but thanks for reading. Lovely weather down here btw. 😂
do you have a video on the cladding?
Not yet Paul, I'll get to that eventually
What do you do if the ground drops in the middle of the room. How do you adjust the floor level?
Gosh, I'd lift up the floor, get a car jack to prop up the joists and then put timber or some kind of packers between the block piers and timber floor frame. It's unlikely to happen because all the weight of the roof and wall passes through the perimeter piers.
I’m torn between quick jacks or easy pads. Anyone had any experience with them
👍
At 1:30 when he said he "dug the pads in to make less use of the extension" surely he should have *raised* the pads in order to have more of the supporting threaded shaft sit within the pad?
Yes, I didn't actually mean that when I said it, your right in what you say. I was faced with a very uneven surface so did need to dig some of the pads in to reduce the amount extension I needed on the other pads and so lower the whole base. Sorry for the confusion!
@@Sixdinnersid Did you use the 2inch brackets - yours look wider to accept two joists screwed together? I've ordered some with 2 inch brackets and wondering I I can get around this by routing a recess where the brackets are
@@owainstravels3381 how did you get on with this. I’ve got 2 inch brackets too and confused about the documentation saying use 2 2x4 together
@@runzareviews4188 I think the wider brackets come with the larger size pads... or you might be able to buy the larger brackets seperately. I was planning on doubling up joists but when I looked at how faffy it might be I decided not to bother. The only way I could see it could work would be to rout a recess in one of the two joists for the bracket to slide between them. I think when the walls are up, the likelihood of deflection in a single joist base is really slim as the whole wall would have to bend above it (you're basically building a shoebox). I have built my 3x5m garden room with single joists in the base with double French doors and 2 windows (all double glazed upvc) and it seems to be fine. I was more concerned about the pads sinking and being level in the footings so I used MOT then high strength concrete with a gravel grid turned upside down. I levelled the gravel grid (sunk into the concrete) and had a a nice level footing, each one slightly larger than the pads. I can share photos etc if that would help. There's so many ways you can do things I don't think there are many wrong ways, just what works for you
@@owainstravels3381 mines going to be 3.7m by 2.1 so not massive. I think single 4x2’s c24 grade will be fine. i want to use the 4x2’s so it gives me more headroom inside. I’ll dig down a little and have a 5cm gap for ventilation underneath the floor
Yeni video ne zaman?