Fresh Brakes for My C7 S6 - No More Brake Dust!
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- Опубликовано: 5 янв 2022
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Front brake pads - www.fcpeuro.com/products/audi...
Rear brake pads - www.fcpeuro.com/products/audi...
Front rotors - www.fcpeuro.com/products/audi...
Rear rotors - www.fcpeuro.com/products/audi...
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My 2016 Audi S6
Glacier White Metallic
Black Optics
Arras Red Design Interior
Red brakes courtesy of Mike’s Autobody of Malden
MOD LIST
ECU/TCU Tune from Integrated Engineering
Summer Wheels:
- BC Forged HCS21, staggered concave profiles
- Fronts - 20x10, et32 (after 3mm spacer)
- Rears - 20x10, et33 (after 5mm spacer)
- Tires - Michelin PS4S - 255/35 20
Track setup:
- TSW Neptune
- Fronts: 20x9, et35, 275/35 NT555Rii
- Rears: 18x9.5, et39, 275/45 M/T ET Street S/S
Winter Wheels:
- OEM RS5 Wheels - 20x9 et26
- Tires - Vredstein Wintrac Pro - 255/35 R20
Exhaust
- JHM High Flow Catted Downpipes
- AWE Touring
Suspension
- CETE Active Air Suspension Control Module
- TGK Dump Box
Other
- JXB Driveshaft Carrier
- 034 Drivetrain Mount Insert Kit from FCP Euro 
Авто/Мото
![[BLACKSWAN] ‘Roll Up’ Official Music Video](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/ulvCwyKrwqw/mqdefault.jpg)
I’m here for the S6 content
Finally some Audi content
finger thread all bolts to make sure you cross thread then tighten with tool.
I actually did this C7 S6 rear brake upgrade on my 2012 A4.
Eli, I’ve been running the EBC Red Stuff pads for quite a while now on my S4 with great results. However, there is a bed in procedure with these pads to get the best out of them and I’m not sure if you are aware!?
1) Use brakes with minimal pressure for first 100 miles from urban speeds of 30-50 mph only.
2) Drive a further 250 miles using slightly increased brake pressure.
3) Look for a full width contact across the pad depth. You will see a blue-ish band evidencing contact across the rotor face. Until this band goes from the outer to the inner edges of the brake disc/rotor the pads have NOT yet fully seated.
4) *MOST IMPORTANT* Make 10 stops from 60 mph to 10 mph in quick succession with a deliberate attempt to get the brakes very hot. Some smells may occur, even slight smoke during this final heat up stage of the pads. Allow the pads to cool sufficiently before parking with the handbrake.
Follow these steps from EBC and honestly you’ll have even less brake dust than you shown at the end of the video. Hope this helps and keep up the videos 👍🏻
Love EBC brake pads. I have the red stuff pads on my mk7 GTI and they’re awesome
I have a C7.5 S6 what type of wheel spacers did you use and where to buy them ?
How do you disable brake warning light with obdeleven
The EBC brake pads are great. I ran Greenstuff awile ago.
EBC 4 lyfe.... lol but they def. arent the best. I run Red Stuffs usually If you have a street performance vehicle the extra bite is totally worth it. They want a tad more heat to be at optimal braking, but bouncing back and forth between green stuffs, red stuffs and occasional hawks, the reds basically are at operating temp once you tap em once. If you are driving super aggressive, basically it just means youre going to lightly lay on the brakes a little bit when you start. Like going down some twistys just tap the brakes a little thru there, if youre on the highway again, basically a tap gets them to peak stopping. Honestly after using them for several brake changes and vehicles, you get used to em enough that its not even a second thought. ( And honestly they arent track pads, just more aggressive than green stuffs, so its really no big deal. ) Unless youre rocking an suv or super econo box, its totally worth it. Just be weary buying potentially counterfit EBC's off ebay. That goes for any color, green, red, yellow or blue... so assholes are basically treating some shit pads with colored coatings... I got a pair once and they freaking caught on fire the first day of brake in.
When you did the front pads, what socket did you use to remove the 2 bolts holding the bracket? I ordered a 5033 VAG brake caliper socket 10pt x20 but it was starting to strip the head of the bolt.
2 years late, but DON'T remove those. The procedure specifically says not to. You remove the 2 on the inner side of the caliper that hold it to the spindle/hub, then use pliers to slightly push back the pads to get the caliper off. Make sure you shield the caliper with a piece of rubber or plastic to protect the paint. The bolts that are removed are "stretch" bolts and are meant for one-time use. They should be replaced EVERY time they have been installed. (No matter how old they are.) Hopefully someone else sees this in time.
- Caution
Risk of malfunction.
Do not loosen the bolts on the brake caliper.
Do not remove the guide pins.
- Note
The guide pins are only replaced on the ceramic brakes.
- Note
Replace the brake carrier bolts after removing.
BRAVEHEART! Really glad to see you use eye protection--seen too many who haven't, and well the consequences. Short of CCBs, I like your approach. Make a followup video on how this goes. The voice of GOD (aka Dad, DoctaA6) was on point! LOL
Just replaced the rear calipers rotors and pads on my MKV lol, both calipers were seized...but you’ll have to checkout porterfield pads sometime! EBC is good too!
How did you back out the E brake? You said Vadcom or OB11 what does that mean?? Thanks!
1 year late, but those are some of the hardware/software options for accessing the car's modules, via the Onboard Diagnostic Port (OBDII). If you you are not car or computer savvy, then get OBD11. If you're just new to Volkswagen Auto Group, then you may prefer VCDS (VAGCOM). Whichever you are, if you are an Audi DIY'r, then you should get one.
you gotta use a 4m battery for the stubby. its great once you use that
all the yes
Is there any reason you disabled your brake wear sensor? Wondering because I can't think of a reason when you’re running pads with a sensor in them
Eli how did you disable the wear sensor light? Tried a couple of different options in vcds found on the forums but nothing seems to work for the S6.
In central electronics, bit 17 byte 2. Should be labeled wear sensor. You can uncheck it, then restart the car and the light should be gone
I don't know if this works on the newer Audis, but when I had a B5 with Stoptech big brakes, I cut the sensor off of the brake pads, twisted the wires together, wire nut, electrical tape, and then connected the pad sensor back into the harness with it zip tied out of the way. It tricked the sensor into thinking it was still good. This way, you could still connect another pad later that has the sensor, since you cut the wires from an old pad you trashed.
Go old Milwaukee M12 stubby! So good!!!
Oh then the diss on it lol maybe step up to a 4amp or 6amp battery cuz mine busts everything off pretty easy on brakes an wheels. Suspension stuff I step it up to the M18 Mid torque most of the the time.
Also noticed you have it on the 🔄 mode keep it on mode 3 for all the torque that mode you have it in is to gently remove stuff
Turbo on my S6 just blew right before Christmas. The oil screen came for me 💀 Getting Rs7 turbos installed though 🤣
@ignitiontube hopefully youve check into the oil screen on your. Probably already on your radar if it hasn't been done already.
Mine have been gone since about 3 weeks after I bought the car 🤘🏻
@@IgnitionTube good stuff, definitely helps when you don't have to replace a $2k set of turbos 🤣
How many miles.
@@cammgt3rs370 Small update on that. Turbos blew at 56k miles. Im currently at 67k and have only had a coolant hose and wheel bearing go out. In total for all the repairs it cost 7500. Unfortunately due to other pending issues such as a high pressure fuel pump possibly failing, suspension noises, and paint damage from the previous owner I will most likely be selling the car soon.
Huge fan run them on everything I can
I am running ebc yellowstuff for my JCW
On that Milwaukee stubby I've had better luck with bigger batteries. A 4.0 or bigger and it really shines. I have a 6.0 that I got free with 2 other tools at HD and it really has more power then the 1.5/2.0 batteries
Shouldn't you only torque when on the ground and full weight is on the suspension?
I was always taught you are supposed to torque with a tiny bit of weight on the wheel. That’s why the car is dropped enough for the tire to touch the ground, but not so much that it’s fully on the ground.
So you manually pushed back the caliber? Thought it was electronic? Or it doesn't matter
The parking brake is electronic. That needs to be retracted via VAGCOM. Then you can manually retract the actual brake caliper itself.
Drippy whippy?
If you buy the bigger 6ah or 4ah xc battery for the m12, it turns it into another animal!
Hm ok I’ll try one of my 4’s or 6’s in it then!!
@@IgnitionTube Yeah give it a go. Id love to hear back if its any better for you. Mine won't do wheel bolts with the small battery, but with a 4 or 6xc charged, they come right off!
@@oliverberridge7706 I have an m12 stubby impact and been wanting to get a 6.0 but they’re pricey haha
@@dumbeezy5480 When I looked into it, the xc 4 will give as good performance. The xc6 will just last longer. Buy genuine batteries too!
How would i know the correct EBC Brakes
any issues with the rotors rusting on the edges?
none, the Zimmerman rotors are fully coated so nothing rusts!
@@IgnitionTube did you do new shims?
One question. How does FCP Euro make money?
We sell car parts! Haha
Just did zimmerman rotors with ferodo pads, very pleased with the results not terribly costly considering the platform. Just gotta watch out for that rear parking brake. Can be temperamental with fault codes in some cases! Lol
Nice video bro!
Invest in some copper grease, thank me later
Brembo did it better 🧐🤙