Building a Benchtop CNC -Part 2 - Z-Axis
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- Опубликовано: 3 июл 2024
- Building a benchtop cnc from 8020 extruded aluminium, and some salvaged parts. This one is stepper motor driven.
In this part I construct and assemble the z axis
Metal cutting saw used in video provided by Evolution Power Tools: amzn.to/2xzrtgY
Part 1: • Building a Benchtop CN...
Part 3: • Building a Benchtop CN...
Part 4: • Building a Benchtop CN...
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I find it just amazing on how you are building this. A real craftsman . I saw this before but just had to see it again. Great stuff hope to see more from you
Thanks a lot Frank, glad you found it interesting. To little content created lately unfortunately. Hopefully the fall/winter will make room for some more. Plenty of ideas and projects on the list. Keep watchinh
Very nice. Looking forward to seeing the X-axis video.
You’re a machine Roy. Fabulous work!
Thanks David
I am impressed... all this on a drill press!
Thanks. Yup, it can be done more than accurate enough, if you measure precise
Great video. Thanks for sharing.
Thank you
Amazing
Thanks Raul
Du bist der Bester
Vielen dank
For transferring a hole pattern, consider buy a set of transfer punches. They work wonders.
I am sure they do, but I do not own any unfortunately. Thanks for the tip anyway, and thanks for watching
Fantastique.
Harbor Freight transfer punches work well, try some.
The golden hand :)
Den begynne og ta form, bra video igjen. Ser betraktelig meir solid ut enn x-carveen eg har. Takk for gode tips
Takk Tore. Ja tror den ble solid så det holder. burde gå greit å kjøre alu, men må være litt mer obs enn på den gamle som har servo motorer, hvis jeg kjører for hardt på denne, så risikerer jeg å miste step, det slipper en jo med servo drift
What a beast of a machine, none of this 3D printed nonsense :)
Thank you
What's the bet, once completed some of these parts are remade with your creation, nicely done.
Thank you very much Wayne
@ᴛᴀᴘ ᴍᴇ ᴀɴᴅ sᴇᴇ Grace taps? Just ordinary old hss Suttons
Amazing..!!👏👏👏
Thanks Jordan
@@bellevuesnekkeri more videos please..!!🙏
Thanks for the encouragement. I wish I had time to bash out a new video each week, but unfortunately not at the moment. Fingers crossed for a more productive 2020
@@bellevuesnekkeri hey no need to rush im just happy to watch those video's take your time i cant wait to see more ideas of yours..!!
At around 4:29 whilst using a drill to mark though the hole position, you should rotate the drill and hit it a few times , will leave a star shaped centre point position, you might have done that , but wasn't clear on the video.
I like your build , its old school , centre punch , marking out etc, im still doing a bit of that now lol, thats how i started out.
nice
Super
Thank you
Love your videos. I'm learning a lot from your designs, fabrication and assembly methods. Can you share a link to the background music?
Thank you , glad you find them useful. The music is Old Friend by Silent Partner from RUclipss free audio library
You can use a drill as a transfer punch , just tap lightly once and turn it 90 deg and tap lightly again, then center punch the cross hair spot.
Great tip
Have a Look on my first engraving..
4:43 I trembled a bit in case those bering weren't self-retaining
Thank you sir for shearing with us.can you send link of parts for buy linear rails screw,motors,...
Thank you for watching. Unfortunately I do not have any plans, links or partslist. I used mainly stuff I had salvaged over the years
hello! Pretty good job, indeed!
A question: when you drill a hole with a bell saw, is it accurate enough to install a ball bearing? Plus or minus how many tenth of a millimeter?
Thanks , i would not trust a hole saw(bellsaw) for this. I only used it for the motor mounts. The bearing seats are drilled with a forstner bit/hinge bit
It would be so fantastic if you would explain and list everything parts anything for people like myself that is completely clueless
Hi. I have salvaged most of the parts, so I am sorry that I cannot provide any more details
Are you using standard forstner bits to drill the holes for the bearings?
Thanks for your videos. I am considering a benchtop CNC build myself and I appreciate the efforts you've made to share your build with us.
Thank you fro watching and for your feedback David. Yes those are carbide tipped forstner bits, and they are completely safe to use with aluminum.
Great skills!! I’ve watched your CNC series twice now. Time to get to work. One question. What determines the size of the piece you can work. I want to work half inch plywood 48” x 48”. Thanks again for taking the time to share and inspire us with your skills. I got this!
Thanks Steve. Normally working dimensions are calculated by the travel length of the ballscrew, minus the width of the gantry, axis plate. For instance if you want to work 48inches you need linear parts and ballscrew with a travel distance of 48 inches plus the size of your gantry setup, that might be 8 inches between carriage points. There is a lot of good information out there like cnczone.com.
Good luck on your build
Thanks for your reply!!
Is there any advantage to the small one over your large one? Or is this just that you want two? :-)
Amazing build!
Thank you Art. The main purpose is that I want to use this one for more detailed engraving and such. It has a lot lower pitch than the large one, and is tighter due to the stiffer build, and ballscrew on all axis. so absolutely no backlash there
morning !
Morning:)
why the reduction belt for the axis, is a stepper motor good torque in lower rpms? high rpms lost torque an force.
You are sure have a lot of time..... anyway love your video.
Thanks. I do not have more than 24 hours a day, as everybody else, but sleeping less is an option😀😄
another question, please...where do you find your aluminium profile to join left and right sides of X axe of your gantry..?? thank's to you
Philippe
It is a cut down U profile that actually is the housing for the big ballscrew. It was a complete linear unit from Bosch rexroth that I butchered. I just slimmed it down a little for weight reduction
Good evening, nice job, could you tell me what thickness of aluminum you use for the Z axis and the engine mounts. Thank you very much
Philippe
Thank you. All the thick plates for the z axis are 15mm, but the motor mounts for the steppers are 5mm😄👍
@@bellevuesnekkeri ok, thank's for details, i've just ordered 15mm aluminium plates today to rebuild my gantry...thank's to you
Is this a kit or a machine of your own design ?looks great so far!
Is my own design. Built it on the fly, no drawings, just inspo from the web
приветствую вас уважаемый мастер поделитесь пожалуйста чертежом вашего чпу станка заранее благодарен
How did you use linear guides on Y axis? Are they HGR15? Thanks.
Do you mean Z axis?. They are 16mm shafts on a butchered Bosch Rexroth pneumatic piston guide
Clip 1:24 that black (aluminum) pc, did you machine that at work ?
That is a part of a Bosch rexroth linear support rail for a pneumatic cylinder, I just modified the ends to fit the back plate
can you plz suggest me the balll screw sizes
I think 16mm or 20mm should be ok for most size cnc
What kind of taps are you using?
Hi Stephen. I am not sure. These belong to the metal shop at my dayjob
I would love to follow in your footsteps to build this machine. I would dearly love to see where you got the aluminum you are crafting this out of, along with more information of what kind of budget you had. In other words, how much does this cost to build assuming you have to buy all of the parts.
Unless of course you know a good place to salvage pieces of 15mm aluminum in the alloy you specified. I am assuming the alloy is important given the vastly different properties of the different alloys.
Hi Ed. I am kind of a dumpster diver, and the majority of this was built with salvaged parts, that also determined the size of the machine. All the extruded aluminum, and the 15mm aluplates i got out of the scrap dumpster at work. Also all the linear rails and cable tracks. So it is hard to estimate the cost of this build. I purchased the 2 smallest ballscrew, the 3 steppers and drivers, along with the spindle. And that came in at approx 250-300 usd I think
@@bellevuesnekkeri I have looked at the prices of processed aluminum, and as much as I like your design, it's prohibitive in its current form unless you are getting all of it for free. That does reduce the price just a bit.
The price of raw aluminum scrap on the other hand is pretty low. I am going to try to make a design that uses aluminum and epoxy resin to create a stiff and vibration-free table bed and gantry. Since the aluminum will be hidden inside the epoxy, I can use casting to make it pretty easy.
I am also contemplating using a combination of wood bonded to angle iron which then has bolts to anchor into the resin. One thing I wanted to ask you about is vibration. While it's true that metals are very stiff, they transmit vibration very well. I am thinking that as long as the metal reinforcers do not run continuously, the vibration will be eliminated.
Pick yourself up a set of transfer punches
Thanks for the tip Dean, never seen these before. I will try to get my hands on some.
hola benos dias donde consigues esel aluminio como hago para con seguirlo porfa
The extruded aluminium I found in the dumpster, but it can be purchased. It si often called 8020
Jeebus get a set of transfer punches
Hi man.. how much amber and torque for this nema 23 use ?
I am not sure about the specs, but the motors used are :57HD6013-03
hola saludo desde colombia donde puedo conseguir ese aluminio
Gracias. No sé quién lo distribuye. Me recogió del contenedor
Where did you get your digital gauge from?
Harbor Freight
Ha ha, I just watched my friend's video (woodlab86) where he is finishing the Z-axis on his 6 meter plus DIY CNC... It is a bit hard to "size down" now.:)
Just took a look at it, that thing is a beast
Yes, it is!:)
He is also attempting to maintain super precise tolerances in his design. A lot of guys were criticizing him for that, saying that this type of "super precision" will only last till the first crash...
He is also trying to stay within a certain budget to prove his concept.
Well, this is not his first big DIY machine...
can you share blue prints ? :-)
Unfortunately there are no plans available for this one Esteban, but please check out my website for my other plans www.bellevuewoodshop.com
Hej, finns det någon BOM lista? Vad är ungefär totala kostnaden för ditt bygge?
Hei. Desverre finnes det ikke noe materialliste eller tegninger av dette bygget. Jeg brukte kun delere jeg hadde samlet fra gamle maskiner som ble demontert i mitt dagtidjobb, forruten spindel og etpar kuleskruer.
salut cv j'ai vue tous vous vidéo et j'aime cette machine je suis un menuisier aux maroc .est que je peux vous demander tous les accessoires de AaZ du machines cnc.merci et m'envoyer le prix total de tous les accessoires merci
Ive never seen anyone use a drill bit as a punch...
I have been doing it for years, but a transfer punch set would be better....but I do not have one😀
How much did this machine cost you?
I am not sure. had most of the parts laying around, but purchased steppers, spindle and ball screws, so I may have cost me approx 250-300 usd
How much cost to prepare this CNC machine
I am not sure. had most of the parts laying around, but purchased steppers, spindle and ball screws, so I may have cost me approx 250-300 usd
@@bellevuesnekkeri I want make this CNC machine to 200usd
I want to make this as a project work in my college
its more like a manufacturer than diy build with all your equipment an ordinary person cant do this as they wont have so many tools
ok
Hi dude! I'm wondering what was the kind of stepper motor that you used, it was a NEMA 23 I guess?
That is correct Sir, Nema 23´s
Very similar to my CNC! instagram.com/p/BZyIYvrnrJ2/ I like that you build a solid one. They cost a bit more than a cheap kit, but they also work much better.
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Thanks
Cringe caliper use at 1:31! haha
The hardened steel tips of the caliper takes absolutely no damage from scribing anything as soft as aluminium