Once I started bare shaft tuning my accuracy really improved. I remove the vanes and add tape to make my shafts weigh the same. My fletched shafts now fly so good, my accuracy has never been better. I do this with my traditional bow too.
I’m glad you said this! This is what I mean at the end when I say there is no right or wrong answer! As long as you are doing one or the other, you are doing more than a lot of bow hunters
In my experience I’ve had inconsistent results with a paper tune, meaning it tears a nice bullet hole but at distance it may fly a bit weird. I like to paper tune first as a good place to start and then bare shaft tune at distance for best results. Just my .02
Like I mention at the end, there is no right or wrong. One is not better than the other, it’s preference! Once you find something that works well for you I thinks it’s smart not to change it
When the bow is finally set up right a bare shaft and a fletched shaft should hit at the same angle at 20 yards. Proving the shafts are leaving the string in a direct path of/ from the energy of the bow.
@@toothofthearrowbroadheads while I’m not really deep into bare shaft stuff I have done this to 40 yards for my broadhead setup. Mainly just for 100% confidence in my hunting setup.
I dont' understand why you're making a distinction between the two. I think it's pretty common to start with shooting a fletched arrow through paper and adjust cams until you get a perfect tear, then shoot your bare shaft through paper until you get a bullet by adjusting your rest and finally getting the bare shaft to hit within a half inch or so of your fletched arrow at 20 yards (using your rest).
@@torreyintahoe just because there is a lot of people who are super strongly in one camp or the other, and there is a difference. In a perfect world you are right, if your setup is dialed then both will be the same
I always took bareshaft tuning as shooting a bareshaft into a target a set distance away and seeing where it hits the target in comparison to a fletched arrow. Paper tuning is shooting anything through a piece of paper, fletched and non-fletched.
I do both. A paper tune is just a starting point with a fletched shaft. If you are throwing a tear with a fletched shaft then your bow is going to throw a bare shaft completely sideways. I will get a bullet hole with a fletched shaft through paper; then try to get as close as I can to a bullet hole with a bare shaft. I laugh at the guys that shoot a bare shaft through paper until they get 1 single bullet hole and call their bow “super tuned”. Shoot your bow 10 more times today and 10 more times tomorrow through paper; if you get a bullet hole all 20 times with a bare shaft I would be completely surprised and give you a handshake. In that case your form is super repeatable and flawless. But, for the average archer, I would say a mix of bullet holes and 1/4”-1/2” tears right and left in 20 shots would be the best tune for the average archer. It shows we found the best tune that will give you the most forgiveness of you do slightly torque your bow left or right. This can also be achieved by broadhead tuning but I’d rather get my bow tuned as well as possible before I start shooting my broadheads to save my targets and keep my broadheads sharp. My issue with paper tuning with fletched shafts is you can get a bullet hole but shoot a bare shaft and throw a 1” or more tear. If you can get your bare shafts throwing the smallest tear possible and then fletch them up and toss broadheads on the front, I’ve found your broadhead tuning process to be a short one.
Usually paper tuning for compound with a release and bare shaft with a recurve with fingers. I never had any luck at all with bare shaft tuning a compound . I used paper tuning with both trackless and tracked field crossbows. I'm not saying I'm correct just my experience.
Thanks for the reply! I can't say much about trad archery, but I have never had an issue with paper tuning - and never a need for bareshaft in compound archery
Paper tune has to be the most over-rated thing in archery. It’s a start only, chasing a perfect bullet hole is generally a waste of time since any hunter with a brain will follow it up with a modified French tune, walk-back tune, and/or broad-head tune.
I will have a video coming out in a couple of weeks addressing this, but I would disagree. In my experience, if your arrows are tuned for your bow and your bow is well setup then paper tuning is the last step. If you are having to make arrow rest adjustments in walkbalk/french tuning or 'broadhead tuning', then there is an issue somewhere else in your setup. Thanks for watching and commenting!
@@toothofthearrowbroadheadsPT should never be the last step, it’s literally the first step in almost every shop. You can prove it’s limitation to yourself if you wish. Get a bow to shoot a perfect bullet hole, then move the windage 1/4 of an index line either way on a QAD or equivalent…..you will most likely still get a bullet hole.
@@michaelcolthart4006100% agree with this. Start with paper. Get a bullet hole with Bareshaft ( or close)… then group tune with bs and fletched at 20. Get them to come together. Walk back to 30 if you want/can. If you are stacking those arrows at 20 , it shoube a money tune. Probably throw any broadhead on there and hit behind the pin ( there are exceptions)
Once I started bare shaft tuning my accuracy really improved. I remove the vanes and add tape to make my shafts weigh the same. My fletched shafts now fly so good, my accuracy has never been better. I do this with my traditional bow too.
I’m glad you said this! This is what I mean at the end when I say there is no right or wrong answer! As long as you are doing one or the other, you are doing more than a lot of bow hunters
I bareshaft through paper . Then i group tune with bareshaft and fletched. I find it tells me a truer story
In my experience I’ve had inconsistent results with a paper tune, meaning it tears a nice bullet hole but at distance it may fly a bit weird. I like to paper tune first as a good place to start and then bare shaft tune at distance for best results. Just my .02
Like I mention at the end, there is no right or wrong. One is not better than the other, it’s preference! Once you find something that works well for you I thinks it’s smart not to change it
Ive never had a fletched arrow not shoot better than a bareshaft
I can say the same!
When the bow is finally set up right a bare shaft and a fletched shaft should hit at the same angle at 20 yards. Proving the shafts are leaving the string in a direct path of/ from the energy of the bow.
This is absolutely true!
@@toothofthearrowbroadheads while I’m not really deep into bare shaft stuff I have done this to 40 yards for my broadhead setup. Mainly just for 100% confidence in my hunting setup.
I dont' understand why you're making a distinction between the two. I think it's pretty common to start with shooting a fletched arrow through paper and adjust cams until you get a perfect tear, then shoot your bare shaft through paper until you get a bullet by adjusting your rest and finally getting the bare shaft to hit within a half inch or so of your fletched arrow at 20 yards (using your rest).
@@torreyintahoe just because there is a lot of people who are super strongly in one camp or the other, and there is a difference. In a perfect world you are right, if your setup is dialed then both will be the same
No one thinks hot dogs are better than hamburgers
😂
I always took bareshaft tuning as shooting a bareshaft into a target a set distance away and seeing where it hits the target in comparison to a fletched arrow. Paper tuning is shooting anything through a piece of paper, fletched and non-fletched.
Generally speaking, bare shaft tuning refers to shooting through paper as well, but this is absolutely another method of bare shaft tuning!
I do both. A paper tune is just a starting point with a fletched shaft. If you are throwing a tear with a fletched shaft then your bow is going to throw a bare shaft completely sideways. I will get a bullet hole with a fletched shaft through paper; then try to get as close as I can to a bullet hole with a bare shaft. I laugh at the guys that shoot a bare shaft through paper until they get 1 single bullet hole and call their bow “super tuned”. Shoot your bow 10 more times today and 10 more times tomorrow through paper; if you get a bullet hole all 20 times with a bare shaft I would be completely surprised and give you a handshake. In that case your form is super repeatable and flawless. But, for the average archer, I would say a mix of bullet holes and 1/4”-1/2” tears right and left in 20 shots would be the best tune for the average archer. It shows we found the best tune that will give you the most forgiveness of you do slightly torque your bow left or right. This can also be achieved by broadhead tuning but I’d rather get my bow tuned as well as possible before I start shooting my broadheads to save my targets and keep my broadheads sharp. My issue with paper tuning with fletched shafts is you can get a bullet hole but shoot a bare shaft and throw a 1” or more tear. If you can get your bare shafts throwing the smallest tear possible and then fletch them up and toss broadheads on the front, I’ve found your broadhead tuning process to be a short one.
Great take! Thanks for watching and sharing your ideas!
Usually paper tuning for compound with a release and bare shaft with a recurve with fingers. I never had any luck at all with bare shaft tuning a compound . I used paper tuning with both trackless and tracked field crossbows. I'm not saying I'm correct just my experience.
Thanks for the reply! I can't say much about trad archery, but I have never had an issue with paper tuning - and never a need for bareshaft in compound archery
I bareshaft but never add weight to the tail... gonna have to try this.
It’s a must if you bare shaft tune!
Paper tune has to be the most over-rated thing in archery. It’s a start only, chasing a perfect bullet hole is generally a waste of time since any hunter with a brain will follow it up with a modified French tune, walk-back tune, and/or broad-head tune.
I will have a video coming out in a couple of weeks addressing this, but I would disagree. In my experience, if your arrows are tuned for your bow and your bow is well setup then paper tuning is the last step. If you are having to make arrow rest adjustments in walkbalk/french tuning or 'broadhead tuning', then there is an issue somewhere else in your setup.
Thanks for watching and commenting!
@@toothofthearrowbroadheadsPT should never be the last step, it’s literally the first step in almost every shop. You can prove it’s limitation to yourself if you wish. Get a bow to shoot a perfect bullet hole, then move the windage 1/4 of an index line either way on a QAD or equivalent…..you will most likely still get a bullet hole.
@@michaelcolthart4006100% agree with this. Start with paper. Get a bullet hole with Bareshaft ( or close)… then group tune with bs and fletched at 20. Get them to come together. Walk back to 30 if you want/can. If you are stacking those arrows at 20 , it shoube a money tune. Probably throw any broadhead on there and hit behind the pin ( there are exceptions)