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That was clearly a failure drill by Micah. Breaking the pelvis.

Dang! nice test, very clever visual demonstration.

They definitely hit harder with a 100 grain insert! But there WILL be a "drop"

This is great, thank you.

I only shoot 60lbs and a 446-grain arrow @ 250 fps.

What is your recommendation for traditional bows

Are 4 fletch noticeably louder than 3 fletch?

I find your vids super informative and interesting! Thanks

Thanks for this. I'm attempting to run 4 Fletch with a 3° helical w/ 4 blade Slick Tricks. I'm in AB as well...

So im wondering why my 2 blades group with my field points but 3 blades group left?

Any advice about sharpening the tip?

I put a drop off blue loctite on all my field points and broadheads. Been shooting left fletch for years that way and never had a broadhead come loose. It's what works for me. Can't wait to try out this TOTA single bevel!

Super helpful man thanks

What’s better the vented XL or Solid?

Where you located

Will ATA or brace height change if the poundage is turned down? I have a monster 6.0 70# that is turned down to 60# and the brace is 6.5. The strings are pretty new. Only a few hundred shots.

Good video. Bareshaft tuning is excessive and makes little sense.

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I bought a dozen and would give a mixed review. The weight consistency was poor compared to other arrows I've built. A total span of 9 grains after cutting to same length. Most were +/- 2 grains but 2 were 5 grains heavy and 1 was nearly 5 grains light. The spine was also more pronounced than in higher quality shafts. Depending on nock orientation I got up to a 1.5 inch tear through paper, although I was able to get a bullet hole out of all after some fiddling. I'm happy with groups at 40 yards, but past 60 I get noticeably tighter groups out of my victory or Easton arrows. I think the orange shafts are a much better idea than lighted nocks so l will still use them for whitetail where I wouldn't shoot at anything further than 40 or 50 yds. Bottom line: for most people these are fine, but if you shoot at long range you might find you need to set a few arrows aside.

I dont' understand why you're making a distinction between the two. I think it's pretty common to start with shooting a fletched arrow through paper and adjust cams until you get a perfect tear, then shoot your bare shaft through paper until you get a bullet by adjusting your rest and finally getting the bare shaft to hit within a half inch or so of your fletched arrow at 20 yards (using your rest).

Ranch fairy guys are getting so hard from this

Forgiveness means my bow doesn’t hold it against me when rifle season comes in.

How hard are these to sharpen? I am seriously thinking of switching over to the S series 4 blade for my crossbow.

Amazing the wisdom from a life time of experience. Inspired by his willingness to do it himself and find his own way! Thanks Leigh!

At 5:24 you mention that you will always be pushing the nock up to the top nock set. Is that just a natural part of drawing the bow or is that something different?

Forgiveness means the bow still hits the middle when the shot feels marginal. Meaning you’ve spent the time to get the bow to work for you. Everything works when we aren’t nervous. A 6” brace height bow can shoot just as forgiving as a 7” if you make it so. It’s particular to the archer and how much time you’ve spend with your equipment.

4 fletch at 90", or you put 2-3 "? Cheers

New subscriber and New archer 👍🇬🇧

I want that bow, really considering it. For some reason, I've made it a requirement that whatever bow I get, has to have a good stand like the new Hoyts offer. I've seen one clip I now cant' find, of a Mach 30 using the same looking stand. Do you know anything about the options PSE has? I really can't find any. Thanks for another awesome video!

Thank you for sharing! I'm about to get a dog and looking for safe and healthy chews. This will be perfect!

Audio is so bad..cant watch it

Personally i do not believe in the concept of "forgiveness". Inconsistencies in form do not occur during the shot. Humans aren't fast enough to make any changes to affect the shot between when the string is released and the arrow disconnects from it. All errors occur in the setup prior to the shot. The best ways to ensure an archer is accurate and consistent even when their release is not perfectly consistent, in my opinion, involves three other "F" words: Fit, Familiarity and Form. Fit: correct draw length, comfortable draw and holding weight, properly balanced, peep sight correct height, sight properly calibrated, release aid set up to function according to the archer's preferred method of shot execution. There should be nothing keeping the archer from devoting 100% of his/her mental attention to maintaining eye/pin/target alignment while floating and executing the shot. TLDR, don't fight against your own setup. Familiarity: the archer knows his/her equipment and has become familiar with its operation, how it feels to draw, how it sounds and reacts when loosing arrows, and how the release works. Different bows and release aids feel different, and switching between different pieces of equipment required a period of refamiliarization Form: the archer has cultivated his/her form so the bow, which is a simple machine, is being fed the same input arrow after arrow. If those three "F"'s are locked down through practice and repetition, the archer won't have to use another particular "F" word because he'll be flubbing far fewer shots.

Can you comment on the length of your mule stabilizer and it being in the lower stabilizer mount? Seems like it would be way up your arm when you carry it

Great for finding arrows in grass

440 grain arrow, 28.5 draw length, 68 lbs draw weight @ 280 fps

I love you guys are talking mushrooms on an archery podcast. I sense there is a deep connection between mushrooms and arrows. No joke.

I appreciate your truth telling. Especially when it comes to your own brand. Even the best made, may not be the most accurate when folks try to shoot the biggest, the fastest! Love that they are 100% USA made!

These come with the inserts loose correct? I ordered three different sets of the inserts to make sure I get them spined perfectly. I will use cold melt until I dial in my setup.

Something that just came to mind, when using archers advantage I started out with the arrow I shot in the past, a black eagle rampage 350 spine cut at 25", 200 grains point weight (125 field point and 75 insert), AAE IP 5 nock, three TAC 2.75" vanes, no arrow wrap, total weight 434 grains going 288 fps at launch. The graph shows it's on the slightly stiff area which is exactly how I wanted it to be. My bow is a PSE Xpedite, 70# limbs, brace hight is 5.25" and my draw length is 27.5". Now, when being in the shaft selector section I wanted to see how a 300 spine black eagle rampage arrow would perform, only this time cut at 25.875" and the graph is showing it's too stiff. I already have three of these arrows made for me because I thought it would work. I can't make the arrow any longer and I don't want to pull more weight either. I thought this arrow was going to fall under the slightly stiff area as well. I don't know how in this video you were able to make work for you when shooting 63-65# and using a 300 spine arrow. Any ideas as to how to spine tune these arrows I have now? Thank you for taking the time to write your reply.

Can you please share what type of insert/outsert system you are using in the video. Looks like a long insert and long sleeve or footer on the outside. Thanks

286 fps @68 lbs

Great video,i havent seen anybody do a video like this on a prime nexus 4.i now is not the newest bow but there kinda diffrent.thanks

I’ve always hunted at 70# with a 480gr arrow. I’ve never really cared about weight or speed in the 20+ years of hunting until this offseason. I switched over to victory RIP TKO’s to experiment with FOC and dialed my bow down to 62lbs for offseason shooting/high reps. I finally stopped at a local archery shop and tested out speed through the two chrono’s that they have available. I’m shooting 29” draw at 62lbs and a 437 grain RIP TKO 340 and was getting 270fps on each chrono. I’ve always been adamant that I have to hunt at 70lbs but seeing that I’m getting 270 fps at my draw weight and arrow weight, I’m pretty content with staying where I’m at. 270fps with a fixed blade is going to kill any animal here in NA.

I’m a little different then most. I shoot a 340grain arrows that’s 300 spine victory rip XV. I have 3 bows bowtech rpm 360 70# shoots it at 339fps, a bowtech 70# sr350 at 338, and a Hoyt alpha x30 at 80lbs and 348fps. Now before I get the 5grains per pound the arrow is spine correctly. Now just an example a 505grain arrow at 272fps or so has 76lbs of ke at 40 yard most people’s max yardage for hunting. My light 340 grain arrow has 78lbs of ke at 40 yards with my speed with the bowtechs and the Hoyt has 81lbs of ke. Now that ke is the same I see my room for error with my setup is greater and the animal has less time to react. Ima get heat for this but I haven’t had any issues.

70# bow 31 inch draw 520 grain arrows single cam 266fps

Has anybody used Contact-Archery's Micro cap component? Contact used to be Method, and Vector before that, I believe. The Micro-Cap is a one piece collar-outsert combination. I haven't used anything else. Bought a dozen arrows last year from Method, and a new dozen this year from "Contact". Happy with their setup. I don't see any problems yet, very solid. Anyone have any? Anything wrong with this Micro-Cap?

Don't know my chrono speed. But 28" draw, 434 grains @63# 335ibo. Calculator says 270fps. don't care for match grade arrows. .003s with meticulous building gets match grade weight sorting and usually around .0015 by cutting both ends.

The most accurate arrows I ever built were .010" straightness (yes, one hundredth straightness). I cut from one end or both, using a dial gauge to find the least-straight end (which is rarely in the center). I spine tested them and lined up the "weak" end, and then I matched the weights of the inserts and points so they were as close to matched for weight as I could. Speed makes no difference. They just need to flex the same way when they leave the bow.

Can we figure out how to sharpen the tip of the Broadheads ? If there is already a way I’m all ears ?

28" draw/314 IBO/65 lb draw/410 gr arrow T W/265 fps