reducing rotating mass is always a good thing. Whether an aluminum driveshaft is worth the bang-per-buck is up to the individual owner... It's a great weekend mod though. I've never heard of anyone regretting their Al DS.
im about to switch my 2000 rangers driveshaft to an Aluminum one after finding a ranger with one at the junkyard. looking forward to it! At 119hp i can use every extra bit i can get
Thanks for the content. Always nice to see people taking the time to contribute knowledge and testing to build our pool of knowledge on RUclips University. I'll see how my butt dyno feels NA with this upgrade soon, before going boosted on the S650. Reading the comments is hilarious. What people believe and think they know...ugh.
Clear coat is also a FANTASTIC uv barrier, and will protect parts from cracking and fading from the sun too 😀 I clear coat damn near everything anymore. Even my archery targets 😂
That's the next upgrade for my sn95. I was blown away by how much more responsive my Mustang was after I put a lightweight flywheel on. I just need to complete the package with the alumn driveline.
I've got a 2006 v6 mustang, next clutch kit time would you recommend me going flywheel ( light) and whatever else or since it's v6 just go oem? It is a 5 speed with a cai and whiteline front and rear sways and links so it's pretty fun to drive. Any help appreciated.
Heads up: the car might stall much more easily if the motor is tuned for top hp . I had a speed shop tune my 11:1 331 na with all the bolt ons, they tuned on a dyno… when I was parking the car, yanking the steering wheel suddenly would stall the car. And the speed shop acted like it was my fault for not knowing that would happen (they just didn’t know how to tune). Just buy a blower though, that’s the lesson I learned.
I believe it's not just reducing weight, but no one else has expressed the fact that maybe the carrier bearing robs just a bit of the horsepower from the drivetrain as well. Every time you add another friction surface, there has to be parasitic loss.
Hey there, Please give us a call at 1-866-507-3786 or email us with the link below and our customer care team can assist you with ETA's on the 28 Spline drive shafts: lmr.com/contact
17 lbs is also worth almost 2 HP just from the weight loss, which of course won't show up on the dyno run, so you can add that in to the total net HP gain.
A must first mod, that steel 2 piece with a sloppy center support bearing must go, yes even the gt 350 has the same drive shaft, so does the machI. Dana Spicer makes the shaft for Ford Performance, just a FYI.
Pretty sure lightnings and 03-04 cobra came with aluminum driveshafts stock. I did the Ford performance ds on my 07 gt500 the biggest thing is when you're making 750+ rwhp like I am with a gen3r the stock driveshaft won't hold up especially if you're on fat drag radials like I also am. That was the biggest reason for the upgrade for me but freeing up couple hp and torque and making it Rev faster and drop almost 20 lbs rotational are all icing on the perverbial cake. I could use all the weight savings I can get on my fat 3900 lbs mustang haha. I'm prob around 3800 now and I got some lighter corbeau gts2 seats on the way that should drop 30-40+ easily I might do a rear seat delete also since I never use it and this car isn't my daily. It has a lighter exhaust and an f14 drag pack on it too. I'd like to get her down to 3700 lbs or less without killing street manners or gutting it into a tin can I think that is easily doable.
@@cocacola3269that is significant. That could be the difference between winning by a car or getting beat by a car. Less weight is always a good thing.
when i broke my stock aluminum shaft after it snapped. I replaced it with steel since it was in a time crunch. And man did it really make a difference. Ive been lazy but I need to find another aluminum shaft and get that fast rev up back.
Is the suspension all stock? Did you need to adjust the pinion angle? Also the yellow dot on the driveshaft, is that to be aligned with the yellow dot I’ve seen on several pinion flanges? Are the yellow dots for balance considerations? Thanks. I’ve got a similar 2014 GT and at 26000 miles I think the carrier bearing rubber isolator is going out and causing the driveshaft to vibrate some. So I may be looking at the same driveshaft install. Good video, thanks.mm
Yes, the suspension on the car in the video is all stock. The pinion angle must be checked if you lower the car. The marks on the driveshaft are used in the manufacturing process so that the assemblers know when a certain step is complete or a component is verified. -Landan
@@latemodelrestoration thanks for the information, did you have interference problems with the 8mm hex key socket and the rear ujoint when you were torquing the rear bolts to 41lbft? I have a 13mm crowfoot for the two 13mm bolts under the ujoint arm.
Hi Moses, Please give us a call at 1-866-507-3786 or email us with the link below and our customer care team can assist you with ETA's on the 28 Spline: lmr.com/contact
The thing about rotational mass is that the radius of the spinning object matters. A driveshaft is a fairly poor flywheel because it's so thin. So you really aren't saving much of anything compared to the stock steel piece. Especially when you look at the overall rotating mass-- the tires and diff spin too. This makes sense as part of a lightening program. But power gains are almost entirely theoretical.
The biggest thing is it will hold up to drag strip Launches and big power much better it's alot stronger it's also 17 lbs weight removed from the vehicle and it all adds up.
When your two piece steel stock drive shaft breaks due to added torque from PD modification you added. That's when. It's the design, not just the material.
I'm doing weight reduction on a 260z thats stock. I'm looking for multi functional parts forst before i spend $2650 on carbon fiber to save 125 lbs (without doing doors or it'd be like 240lbs total) which is 5% of total weight cut. It's a good amount but if i do things like lighter wheels, lighter tires with performance (i have all seasons currently), aluminum driveshaft, possible rear diff upgrade, exhaust system probably last, then I'd probably save around 400 pounds or 16% in total weight reduction. Then i would start with performance parts like brake kits, cams, etc. I'm doing webber carbs right now. I wonder what other parts like the driveshaft i can cut weight and improve performance at the same time
The results were negligible, but what’s important is what you can’t see. The added weight of the old drive shift slows initial acceleration (hence the statement what you feel) and more importantly the wear and tear you save on your drive line due to the initial power transformer under take off. Think of spinning a crank with your arm with a heavy crank versus light. Once up to speed no problem, but that initial start is where you get the payoffs.
Bro science backed up. It was really a great deal when the Ford Racing shafts were $150 and under. An aluminum DS and Flywheel with 430 gears on my Mach 1 took it to low 12s when that was quick🤣
Not so much with these bolt together Lego cars, but with custom stuff the biggest benefit is lack of harmonics and vibration. The aluminum is such a “dead” material it doesn’t amplify ring and vibration…
You can also compare how quickly it revs up. That is where you will notice a difference as well when it comes to parasitic losses. I have done lightweight aluminum flywheels and that is quite noticeable considering it is straight off the crank.
The driveshaft doesn’t rotate when you rev the engine up IN NEUTRAL, but it definitely does rotate when you rev the engine up while going through the gears.
Yes, the HP difference will depend on how quickly the dyno allows the engine to rev up... also, the difference will be less in the lower gears when the driveshaft isn't seeing many RPMs... looks like the difference with aluminum shaft is enough to put a fender ahead of the other car with heavy shaft...
I feel like it can make like .7more HP. But I feel that that HP is coming from reduced vibrations and heat. Which means you’re reducing destructive loads on your system.
Is it as durable as a steel driveshaft i plan on throwing more power onto my tuned 5.3 chevy single cab and im not fully decided if i should get the steel or aluminum
TWO QUESTIONS; would this hp gain be similar same in a V6 camaor/mustang but just a larger percentage since 3 hp out of 323 is almost 1% whereas 3Hp out of 416is about .6 % it would be cool to see this back to back test with lightweight wheels as well MAYBE even an under drive pulley if those are possible on modern engines?
The results simply depend on the weight savings of the lighter driveshaft. There isn't' really a blanket "percentage". However, the theory is the same for all makes/models. We plan on putting a video together talking about the benefits of lighter weight wheels. Underdrive pulleys aren't very popular with modern Ford engines. -Landan
So, is it worth the money for 3 hp? I’d say ‘no’ but: overall weight is reduced too, plus I need new u-joints…. So, is it on my parts list? He’ll yeah:)
I have been considering this upgrade but have wondered how much cornering and tracking ability I will give up. What is your opinions on this? Sorry for the noob ?s
Why would reducing spinning weight effect cornering in a negative way? I have it and the biggest change is shifting and on off throttle as it has less weight to change the speed. But cornering is unaffected.
@@rileycates5049 I didn’t know if it would decrease body flex In corners. Like I said I’m new to the mustang world and would like my build to stay more towards road courses.
@@edwinwheatley2732 just received a whiteline front and rear swaybar kit kit with the heavy duty links . I havnt installed it yet but kinda excited to do so,, I have an 06 , unfortunately v6 but at least it's a 5 spd. I'm new to and am really wondering what kinda upgrade I should do when clutch kit time comes or is the v6 not even worth upgrading out of oem for clutch time? Any recommendations appreciated.
I have what was P71 aluminum shaft shortened down/balanced by a local shop in my fox chassis 85 LTD. Been in there almost 10 years and the car has ran in the high 9's 1/4 mile.
Good video. Would love to see a video how much HP would free up from ATI Damper, light weight flywheel, and electric water pump in combination with the aluminum driveshaft 😎👍🐎💨💨💨💨
A better explanation isnt the horsepower benefit from less rotational mass. - A lighter driveshaft means less rotational mass to be accelerated, allowing the car's engine to transfer power more efficiently to the wheels. This can result in improved acceleration times; you'll notice that the revs tend to "hang less" and more responsive to the shift patterns. - Increased Fuel Efficiency: A lighter driveshaft means less energy is required to rotate it, resulting in lower fuel consumption and improved fuel efficiency. - Improved Handling: A lighter driveshaft can reduce the overall weight of the vehicle, which can improve handling and reduce body roll during cornering. - Reduced Wear and Tear: A lighter driveshaft can reduce the load on other drivetrain components, such as the transmission and differential, resulting in reduced wear and tear on these parts.
@Mr.5ame no I don't think so. It's going to work less with the lighter shaft like he said it's also 17 lbs of weight off the vehicle every bit adds up. 17 here, 25 there, 50 there, 75 there it all adds up in the end.
@@nimrodpaul6875 yes, but in a racecar, it wont matter cause everything is loud and vibrating. but in a daily driver.... steel is better. that extra HP isnt worth the noise/cost
@@MikeSmith-ey7ku CF wont dampen vibes either and are the most expensive shafts currently made... also only made in short form like CV axles reliably... good luck...
Don’t ever put a one piece on a 6r80 transmission because you’ll have vibrations issues. The factory unit is a two piece with a carrier bearing due to the design requiring it. There is excessive tail shaft play by design w that trans and needs a carrier bearing to stabilize it.
Are you speaking from personal experience? I've never had an issue with a one-piece driveshaft in a 6R80 car. My wife has a ~700 WHP supercharged Coyote car with one, and it's been problem free for 5+ years with occasional drag strip use. Also, I know and have driven a few cars with 100k+ miles, and they're smooth as can be. You might want to check the balance of the driveshaft that you have. -Landan
Lol people tried to figure out how I was leaving so hard on street tires. Aluminum flywheel, aluminum driveshaft and 4.56s for the win. Night and day 🙌🏾
Hey there, if you sign up for our Email Newsletter, you'll be notified as soon as we release another discount code 😉 Here's the link to sign up! lmr.com/Sweepstakes/Enter/Newsletter-Sign-Up?email=&go=Sign+Up%21
It isn't just for power gains it holds up to power alot better the factory one is a weak link. It is also 17 lbs removed from the vehicle it all adds up. Little here and little there and you're 200-300 lbs lightee before you know it.
Will adding this drive shaft to my v6 allow me to remove the rev limiter and speed governor just need to know what speeds are the drive shaft rated for
A driveshaft doesn't "allow" the rev limiter to be removed. A handheld tuner has that functionality. The critical speed of a driveshaft is determined by it's length, outside diameter, wall thickness, and u-joint series. If you have that info, you can calculate the driveshafts "critical speed". -Landan
@@latemodelrestoration yes that's what I was asking I just wanna know if it be able to handle speeds of 170+mph ya know how much hp and torque is it rated for, can that drive shaft handle the speed governor and rev limiter being removed
Folks driveshafts DO NOT give you power. None, zip.. it just feels like it. I've done and seen over 600 shaft upgrades on stock V8 muscle on tbe dyno. Any, ANY shop that tells you it makes power is FULL OF BS.
![Felix "Unfair" | [Stray Kids : SKZ-PLAYER]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/Oswujxm2Ag0/mqdefault.jpg)
I definitely felt a difference when I made that upgrade! Good to see some numbers behind it! Thanks for all you do LMR
No problem! Glad you enjoyed the video!
Noticed any increase in NVH?
@@ChardDavis less, Actually.
@@dvinpeaceI call bullshit
reducing rotating mass is always a good thing.
Whether an aluminum driveshaft is worth the bang-per-buck is up to the individual owner... It's a great weekend mod though. I've never heard of anyone regretting their Al DS.
im about to switch my 2000 rangers driveshaft to an Aluminum one after finding a ranger with one at the junkyard. looking forward to it! At 119hp i can use every extra bit i can get
Thanks for the content. Always nice to see people taking the time to contribute knowledge and testing to build our pool of knowledge on RUclips University. I'll see how my butt dyno feels NA with this upgrade soon, before going boosted on the S650. Reading the comments is hilarious. What people believe and think they know...ugh.
Clear coat is also a FANTASTIC uv barrier, and will protect parts from cracking and fading from the sun too 😀 I clear coat damn near everything anymore. Even my archery targets 😂
I don't think your driveshaft needs UV protection... Unless you drive upside down all the time.
@@weskirkland5850 Maybe he has a jeep?
It’s under the car!!
Please tell me you know that!! Please!!!
That's the next upgrade for my sn95. I was blown away by how much more responsive my Mustang was after I put a lightweight flywheel on. I just need to complete the package with the alumn driveline.
I've got a 2006 v6 mustang, next clutch kit time would you recommend me going flywheel ( light) and whatever else or since it's v6 just go oem? It is a 5 speed with a cai and whiteline front and rear sways and links so it's pretty fun to drive. Any help appreciated.
Heads up: the car might stall much more easily if the motor is tuned for top hp . I had a speed shop tune my 11:1 331 na with all the bolt ons, they tuned on a dyno… when I was parking the car, yanking the steering wheel suddenly would stall the car. And the speed shop acted like it was my fault for not knowing that would happen (they just didn’t know how to tune).
Just buy a blower though, that’s the lesson I learned.
Ford Racing AL driveshaft is what I went with on my 92. Enjoyed your video.
I believe it's not just reducing weight, but no one else has expressed the fact that maybe the carrier bearing robs just a bit of the horsepower from the drivetrain as well. Every time you add another friction surface, there has to be parasitic loss.
Test a carbon fiber driveshaft next. Comparing costs with gains will be great!
David - Hopefully this is something we can show in a future video. Thanks! -Landan
Lighter driveshaft & wheels are certainly beneficial. You'll feel the most difference when accelerating from stand still or low speed.
Nice if you’re big into weight reduction on your build.
Getting mine installed next week.
I have always wanted to see this test. I can't wait for you to get some 28 spline driveshafts in!
Can you pull some strings and get the fox 28 spline aluminum drive shafts in stock?
Hey there,
Please give us a call at 1-866-507-3786 or email us with the link below and our customer care team can assist you with ETA's on the 28 Spline drive shafts: lmr.com/contact
Great video fellas! I think it is a very worthy upgrade!
Thanks! -Landan
@@latemodelrestoration Have a great day Brother! Will be looking forward to the next LMR video!
@@ogsuperflygarage You as well! Thanks for your continued support. I always enjoy the positive feedback! -Landan
17 lbs is also worth almost 2 HP just from the weight loss, which of course won't show up on the dyno run, so you can add that in to the total net HP gain.
A must first mod, that steel 2 piece with a sloppy center support bearing must go, yes even the gt 350 has the same drive shaft, so does the machI. Dana Spicer makes the shaft for Ford Performance, just a FYI.
I actually have this drives haft on my 2011 5.0 and it's probably the most underrated upgrade you can do lol.
Pretty sure lightnings and 03-04 cobra came with aluminum driveshafts stock. I did the Ford performance ds on my 07 gt500 the biggest thing is when you're making 750+ rwhp like I am with a gen3r the stock driveshaft won't hold up especially if you're on fat drag radials like I also am. That was the biggest reason for the upgrade for me but freeing up couple hp and torque and making it Rev faster and drop almost 20 lbs rotational are all icing on the perverbial cake. I could use all the weight savings I can get on my fat 3900 lbs mustang haha. I'm prob around 3800 now and I got some lighter corbeau gts2 seats on the way that should drop 30-40+ easily I might do a rear seat delete also since I never use it and this car isn't my daily. It has a lighter exhaust and an f14 drag pack on it too. I'd like to get her down to 3700 lbs or less without killing street manners or gutting it into a tin can I think that is easily doable.
I've been told that, by experienced drag racers, for every 100 pounds you shed from your car, you gain about 1/10th of a second in the 1/4 mile.
So 3700lbs you will be 2 car lengths faster than 3900lbs in the quarter mile.
@@cocacola3269that is significant. That could be the difference between winning by a car or getting beat by a car. Less weight is always a good thing.
LMR 💯 good stuff
Do you want to put anti-seize on the differential and clutch/transmission ends?
It doesn't hurt anything. -Landan
Please test a carbon fiber drive shaft and see what that does. Good video.
Thanks for the comment! Hopefully we can do something similar with a carbon fiber driveshaft in the future. -Landan
when i broke my stock aluminum shaft after it snapped. I replaced it with steel since it was in a time crunch. And man did it really make a difference. Ive been lazy but I need to find another aluminum shaft and get that fast rev up back.
Is the suspension all stock? Did you need to adjust the pinion angle? Also the yellow dot on the driveshaft, is that to be aligned with the yellow dot I’ve seen on several pinion flanges? Are the yellow dots for balance considerations? Thanks. I’ve got a similar 2014 GT and at 26000 miles I think the carrier bearing rubber isolator is going out and causing the driveshaft to vibrate some. So I may be looking at the same driveshaft install.
Good video, thanks.mm
Yes, the suspension on the car in the video is all stock. The pinion angle must be checked if you lower the car. The marks on the driveshaft are used in the manufacturing process so that the assemblers know when a certain step is complete or a component is verified. -Landan
@@latemodelrestoration thanks for the information, did you have interference problems with the 8mm hex key socket and the rear ujoint when you were torquing the rear bolts to 41lbft? I have a 13mm crowfoot for the two 13mm bolts under the ujoint arm.
I’m ready to get one for my 2012
Any ETA on 28 spline for fox body?
Hi Moses,
Please give us a call at 1-866-507-3786 or email us with the link below and our customer care team can assist you with ETA's on the 28 Spline: lmr.com/contact
The thing about rotational mass is that the radius of the spinning object matters. A driveshaft is a fairly poor flywheel because it's so thin. So you really aren't saving much of anything compared to the stock steel piece. Especially when you look at the overall rotating mass-- the tires and diff spin too. This makes sense as part of a lightening program. But power gains are almost entirely theoretical.
The biggest thing is it will hold up to drag strip Launches and big power much better it's alot stronger it's also 17 lbs weight removed from the vehicle and it all adds up.
@midnight347 since when is aluminum stronger than steel?
When your two piece steel stock drive shaft breaks due to added torque from PD modification you added. That's when. It's the design, not just the material.
@tonyduncan7672 Pretty sure they make 1-piece steel shafts too.
Very cool video. LMR is my Foxbody go to!!
🙌
I'm doing weight reduction on a 260z thats stock. I'm looking for multi functional parts forst before i spend $2650 on carbon fiber to save 125 lbs (without doing doors or it'd be like 240lbs total) which is 5% of total weight cut. It's a good amount but if i do things like lighter wheels, lighter tires with performance (i have all seasons currently), aluminum driveshaft, possible rear diff upgrade, exhaust system probably last, then I'd probably save around 400 pounds or 16% in total weight reduction.
Then i would start with performance parts like brake kits, cams, etc. I'm doing webber carbs right now. I wonder what other parts like the driveshaft i can cut weight and improve performance at the same time
Lighter weight brake rotors will help as well. -Landan
The results were negligible, but what’s important is what you can’t see. The added weight of the old drive shift slows initial acceleration (hence the statement what you feel) and more importantly the wear and tear you save on your drive line due to the initial power transformer under take off. Think of spinning a crank with your arm with a heavy crank versus light. Once up to speed no problem, but that initial start is where you get the payoffs.
Bro science backed up. It was really a great deal when the Ford Racing shafts were $150 and under. An aluminum DS and Flywheel with 430 gears on my Mach 1 took it to low 12s when that was quick🤣
Not so much with these bolt together Lego cars, but with custom stuff the biggest benefit is lack of harmonics and vibration.
The aluminum is such a “dead” material it doesn’t amplify ring and vibration…
I got a one piece carbon fiber driveshaft on my 04 gto wonder what the gains are
I know that cost a pretty penny
Did ya feel a noticeable change or was it there when purchased?
@@nimrodpaul6875 Lil more acceleration response
You can also compare how quickly it revs up. That is where you will notice a difference as well when it comes to parasitic losses. I have done lightweight aluminum flywheels and that is quite noticeable considering it is straight off the crank.
The driveshaft doesn’t rotate when you rev the engine considering it’s attached to the rear end 🤣
@@Texas_Road_Warrior lol good 👉, I was scratching my noggin a lil but it's early. Still giggling lol
The driveshaft doesn’t rotate when you rev the engine up IN NEUTRAL, but it definitely does rotate when you rev the engine up while going through the gears.
Yes, the HP difference will depend on how quickly the dyno allows the engine to rev up... also, the difference will be less in the lower gears when the driveshaft isn't seeing many RPMs...
looks like the difference with aluminum shaft is enough to put a fender ahead of the other car with heavy shaft...
I feel like it can make like .7more HP. But I feel that that HP is coming from reduced vibrations and heat. Which means you’re reducing destructive loads on your system.
Is it as durable as a steel driveshaft i plan on throwing more power onto my tuned 5.3 chevy single cab and im not fully decided if i should get the steel or aluminum
I'm not a Chevy guy, but I'd be willing to bet that an aluminum driveshaft is popular swap/upgrade for your truck. -Landan
TWO QUESTIONS; would this hp gain be similar same in a V6 camaor/mustang but just a larger percentage since 3 hp out of 323 is almost 1% whereas 3Hp out of 416is about .6 %
it would be cool to see this back to back test with lightweight wheels as well
MAYBE even an under drive pulley if those are possible on modern engines?
The results simply depend on the weight savings of the lighter driveshaft. There isn't' really a blanket "percentage". However, the theory is the same for all makes/models. We plan on putting a video together talking about the benefits of lighter weight wheels. Underdrive pulleys aren't very popular with modern Ford engines. -Landan
Carbon fiber driveshaft test with the same white 2014 mustang, it will rev even faster and gain maybe another 4 hp every bit help.👍💪😎🇨🇦👏
So, is it worth the money for 3 hp? I’d say ‘no’ but: overall weight is reduced too, plus I need new u-joints…. So, is it on my parts list? He’ll yeah:)
I have a 05 v6 t5.. with stock 8.8 from a gt.. will this work? I also have the stock drive shafts for the v6 and gt
The driveshaft in the video will not work for your application. -Landan
I have one on my 2008 Bullitt and I could tell IMMEDIATELY !!!!
Did it take all of the hum out of the tranny during acceleration? Any clunk at low speed takeoff
I have been considering this upgrade but have wondered how much cornering and tracking ability I will give up. What is your opinions on this? Sorry for the noob ?s
Why would reducing spinning weight effect cornering in a negative way?
I have it and the biggest change is shifting and on off throttle as it has less weight to change the speed. But cornering is unaffected.
@@rileycates5049 I didn’t know if it would decrease body flex In corners. Like I said I’m new to the mustang world and would like my build to stay more towards road courses.
@@edwinwheatley2732 just received a whiteline front and rear swaybar kit kit with the heavy duty links . I havnt installed it yet but kinda excited to do so,, I have an 06 , unfortunately v6 but at least it's a 5 spd. I'm new to and am really wondering what kinda upgrade I should do when clutch kit time comes or is the v6 not even worth upgrading out of oem for clutch time? Any recommendations appreciated.
@@nimrodpaul6875 venom stage two clutch w lightened flywheel.
@@nimrodpaul6875best upgrade for you would be sell and get a v8 car. Putting money into a v6 is never a good idea. They don’t hold value.
If it's accumulative per mods then cool but price point for 3 more to wheels... meh but I still plan to buy one next year.
Did landan quote ronnie Coleman there? I heard it lol
I figured it was perfect timing. Haha! -Landan
Does this fit on a 6R80 car ?
Yes, the Ford Performance M4602MGTM fits MT82 and 6R80 cars. -Landan
Brother, I have a 03' Crown Vic P71 with an aluminum driveshaft. Do you know ow how much power those can handle?
I have what was P71 aluminum shaft shortened down/balanced by a local shop in my fox chassis 85 LTD. Been in there almost 10 years and the car has ran in the high 9's 1/4 mile.
@@NCSTANGGUY high 9 1/4? That's solid af.
0:48 LIGHT WEIGHT!! AOOOOOOO
LIGHT WEIGHT BABBYY!!
YEAH LIGHT WEIGHT 💪
The F150 Ecoboost comes standard with Aluminum drive shaft
Maybe that's why they feel like they rev so much quicker. Could be the 10-speed trans too......
Is it really worth the $$ though?🤔
Good video. Would love to see a video how much HP would free up from ATI Damper, light weight flywheel, and electric water pump in combination with the aluminum driveshaft 😎👍🐎💨💨💨💨
A better explanation isnt the horsepower benefit from less rotational mass.
- A lighter driveshaft means less rotational mass to be accelerated, allowing the car's engine to transfer power more efficiently to the wheels. This can result in improved acceleration times; you'll notice that the revs tend to "hang less" and more responsive to the shift patterns.
- Increased Fuel Efficiency: A lighter driveshaft means less energy is required to rotate it, resulting in lower fuel consumption and improved fuel efficiency.
- Improved Handling: A lighter driveshaft can reduce the overall weight of the vehicle, which can improve handling and reduce body roll during cornering.
- Reduced Wear and Tear: A lighter driveshaft can reduce the load on other drivetrain components, such as the transmission and differential, resulting in reduced wear and tear on these parts.
Would extra weight keep momentum going and be better on fuel consumption on the highway though?
@Mr.5ame no I don't think so. It's going to work less with the lighter shaft like he said it's also 17 lbs of weight off the vehicle every bit adds up. 17 here, 25 there, 50 there, 75 there it all adds up in the end.
I’m sure the difference would be greater with a boosted car
Fresh ass haircut brother
I like the one piece cause its not clunky
$800-1200 for 10-20 HP/TQ
And.......
Steel shaft will absorb and dampen any vibrations...
Aluminum will amplify them...
So you'd feel more vibration with aluminum? Even if balanced? I'm green as hell to this subject.
@@nimrodpaul6875 yes, but in a racecar, it wont matter cause everything is loud and vibrating. but in a daily driver.... steel is better. that extra HP isnt worth the noise/cost
Yeah, I’m worried about the AL amplifying every little noise so I’m gonna go carbon fiber probably,the giant 2 piece stock shaft has to go.
@@MikeSmith-ey7ku CF wont dampen vibes either and are the most expensive shafts currently made... also only made in short form like CV axles reliably... good luck...
you're worried about vibrations??? what kind of motor does your mustang have a vagina.0
Don’t ever put a one piece on a 6r80 transmission because you’ll have vibrations issues. The factory unit is a two piece with a carrier bearing due to the design requiring it. There is excessive tail shaft play by design w that trans and needs a carrier bearing to stabilize it.
Are you speaking from personal experience? I've never had an issue with a one-piece driveshaft in a 6R80 car. My wife has a ~700 WHP supercharged Coyote car with one, and it's been problem free for 5+ years with occasional drag strip use. Also, I know and have driven a few cars with 100k+ miles, and they're smooth as can be. You might want to check the balance of the driveshaft that you have. -Landan
Any weight loss is a faster car!!
How come this same driveshaft says it weighs 24 pounds on other websites
Tony - I don't have an answer to that. You saw the weight in the video, so now you know. -Landan
Lol people tried to figure out how I was leaving so hard on street tires. Aluminum flywheel, aluminum driveshaft and 4.56s for the win. Night and day 🙌🏾
What speed is it rated for?
Nobody ever wondered how you were leaving. Ever.
This works in “grand Turismo 3:aspec”
Please get a life!!
Time for some boys to grow up!!
Aluminum propeller shafts are great. But when replacing U-joints on them, I always have a hard time not damaging the aluminum.
It only frees up HP if you don't know how to measure it.
How about a working promo code 😉
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@Late Model Restoration (LMR) thanks got it in email last night
0 to 60 would be the test
Releasing rather than increasing HP.
No need for a carbon fiber one tbh, just more money when an Aluminum will get the job done.
Big power build will need a CF shaft. They help absorb hard launches. AL will also fail before an CF will
No need for an aluminum one tbh, just more money when a steel one will get the job done.
More like quicker acceleration than more horsepower
You think that's light weight check out the carbon fiber one!
Not cost effective, considering cost and installation.
It isn't just for power gains it holds up to power alot better the factory one is a weak link. It is also 17 lbs removed from the vehicle it all adds up. Little here and little there and you're 200-300 lbs lightee before you know it.
Aluminum drive shaft ain't much weight difference round 1500 ibs difference not much
Next up...
Carbon wheels.
One of these days, we're going to get show a before and after dyno of lighter weight wheels. Thanks for the comment. -Landan
Will adding this drive shaft to my v6 allow me to remove the rev limiter and speed governor just need to know what speeds are the drive shaft rated for
A driveshaft doesn't "allow" the rev limiter to be removed. A handheld tuner has that functionality. The critical speed of a driveshaft is determined by it's length, outside diameter, wall thickness, and u-joint series. If you have that info, you can calculate the driveshafts "critical speed". -Landan
@@latemodelrestoration yes that's what I was asking I just wanna know if it be able to handle speeds of 170+mph ya know how much hp and torque is it rated for, can that drive shaft handle the speed governor and rev limiter being removed
Lol
Folks driveshafts DO NOT give you power. None, zip.. it just feels like it. I've done and seen over 600 shaft upgrades on stock V8 muscle on tbe dyno. Any, ANY shop that tells you it makes power is FULL OF BS.