What a nice person you are. You talk slowly so that one can understand, no whistles, no noisy music. You just explain and you feel very, very trustworthy. Your channel is a bright star!
Here are my 5 tips Buy a used camera body but not well worn Buy a used fast prime Buy a used standard or telephoto zoom Buy a flash Don’t listen to RUclips influencers on why you need this or why you should switch systems or why this sensor is inferior And practice practice practice. You can produce amazing results with used old stuff and practice and save your money.
Was an absolute beginner and bought a new Lumix G9 with 12-60 Leica. Fantastic camera. Fantastic lens. I am more than satisfied. Bought a couple of lenses (100-300 Pana, 42,5mm Oly, 25mm Pana) and can shoot nearly anything I am interested in.
Instead of camera brand preference, I'd suggest to go in a physical store and pick the body up in your hands: you would probably come out with something completely different then what you thought going in. You could have the best specs in your camera, but if you dislike holding it and fight the control every time you will end not taking it out with you, and a camera left at home is of little use.
I agree. I was going with Fujifilm X-T2 and left with an Olympus E-M10 Mark II. I HATED the feel of Fujifilm. 8mp less, less dynamic range & more DoF equivalent. Never looked back.
@@RobShootPhotos I went in to buy a Sony A7lll and came out with a Canon RP! 😅 What the point of all the Dynamic range and technology if I want to smash the camera against the wall each time I pick it up? I even tried a Nikon Z6 and Canon EOS R, but the RP was simply fitting in my hands and fell in bag (and was half the price too)
@Zumzifero Excellent comment. So true. I went in to a camera shop years ago, to buy my first digital SLR thinking back to my last film camera, a Nikon FM2. I ended up buying an Olympus E-500 because it just felt good in my hand. I’d never owned an Olympus before, so as you suggest, the brand is not the most important aspect when deciding on a camera. Cheers.
Started out with a used Nikon D810 (800 dollars from Japan) a few months ago and am really happy with it so far. Had photography as a hobby in my teens and my own darkroom etc. in 1989, so it feels great to rediscover this hobby which adds a whole new dimension to travelling and looking at the world in general. Thanks for this great channel.
#6 is a great advice, but I’d like to add #7 to that: be honest to yourself. In our workshops I talk to a lot of enthusiast photographers who’ve spend a fortune on ‘the best’ since that’s their ambition. An expensive full-frame or otherwise top-of-the-line kit doesn’t make you a better photographer. If you’re new to photography, start with one lens (e.g. 35/50mm equiv.) and you’ll notice what you need next. If you already have a catalogue, check which focal lenghts you’ve used most. That’s what you need for your new camera as well. Last year we had a guy in our portrait workshop who was entirely new to photography. In preparation he bought an A7RIV with the entire f2.8 trinity of zooms. Only to find out that a 50 or 85mm would have been perfect and pref. also a much simpler camera. For some reason these are always men…😂. So, ask yourself what subjects do you find fun to shoot and adjust your choice to that. Be honest. One portrait doesn’t make you a portrait photographer… and even they only have 2 or 3 go-to lenses (max.).
I also agree on this. I some times wonder why i have so many lenses when i mostly use trusty 70-200mm f2.8 is usm ii or 150-600mm Sigma sport when its season for birdphotograpy.
I think practical features like portability, battery life, or wheater sealing, are more important for most people than sensor size or image quality. Unfortunately, they are often ignored.
Agreed. I chased sensor size for years and IQ only to find I became less discreet, took less pics, and even left the camera at home. I liked the 1 inch sensor models and even the 1/1.7 sensors with a fast lenses gave some great jpegs.
I bought a Panasonic micro four thirds in 2009 because I am a cliber and walker and wanted a lightweight camera system. I could not afford Leica, so this new system was just the system for me. And from 2009 to the present day it has worked for me, for both still and video !
Hi Matti, i do think - the right camera, is that one that suits you the most, into the best possible way - means, it doesn't distract you into any way, and it's being "just a Tool" to let you do the job - taking fine compositions, without getting on your nerves, or having issues. ;-) A fine weekend. Greetings
I just purchased a new camera and new lens, it may or may not have affected my decision much to watch this video, but I really wish I had watched it prior to ordering. Very thorough video on selecting a camera. I stuck with the M43 system but I wanted to switch from Panasonic to Olympus, so I went with a OMD EM10 Mark IV w/45mm. I have a a wonderful PanLeica 15mm and a Panasonic 25mm. I think I now have a serviceable travel, street, and still-life system. Eventually I may get the new OM Systems camera, but a combination of this new Olympus and my LUMIX GX9 will work for now. Thanks again for such a good video.
love my canon m6 mk ii but really want a GR3 just on a tight budget lately if you compare the two cameras though am I really missing out? like I wonder if I'd really fall in love with the GR the way many of my friends seem to.
Great Advice. Thank You. I would add one more. If Photography is not your living, buy camera and lens you can carry easily. I had Canon M50 that I can keep anywhere in bag or carry in hand as if it is point and shoot. It was not weather seal so I sold it and brought Canon EOS R6 + 24-105 L lens. Man, walking with Camera is a project in itself. I am planning to buy Sony A7C with small lens as Canon does not make compact full frame camera.
Really good tips for any beginner phtographer. When you start this hobby you may think that you need the best for best results but its not true. We have done great photos for many years now so used gear is more then viable to start with. Go out and take photos to learn your camera and exapand your skills with what you have and then learn how to edit photos for best possible result.
Re ergonomics, not just the physical handling of the body and controls, but the layout of the menus, customisation etc. I've had several Panasonic M4/3 bodies (first a GF1, then a GX-7, now a GX-8 and GX-9, plus a GM-5 to replace a compact) and feel completely at home with them. With more free time now for landscape photography, I recently decided to get a full-frame camera and went with a (heavily discounted) S1R. The familiar ergonomics have helped me to get up to speed with it. Being able to use the same flashguns and some other accessories (e.g. remote release across S1R and GX-8) has been a further bonus.
Just got a like new Olympus em 1 mk Ii with less than 1000 actuations in the original box with all accessories except manual for $699.98. Also looked at a couple of Lumix bodies but they were $250 more than the Olympus. Prefer micro 4/3 since switching from Canon in 2019. Good info in this video.
Best advice you can give… 👍 I bought a used GX8 with the Olympus 12-40/2.8 standard zoom lens (offered as a set) in great conditions. There are a few cosmetic cons on this camera, but over all…such a great little piece of tech, i love it. Like you said, the over all counts… Many thanks Matti!
I traded in my Panasonic Lumix GH3 for a second hand Lumix G100 MFT camera whch allows me to have interchangable lens. Perfect for travel (fits in my pocket), Photo &video(4K). I alsopurchased a second hand Olympus lens. I agree with you - secondhand is a good way to go and not break the bank.
Perhaps what people sometimes don't think through so much are the design attributes and technologies that will allow them to shoot what they want and when they want. For me, these are things like weather-sealing, IBIS, screen configuration (fixed, articulating or flippy) and the ability to select from any one of a number of custom settings quickly and easily - things that mean you can respond quickly and accurately to changes in the environment or of subject.... things that expand possibilities. If a camera doesn't have the right combination of these attributes, no matter how good in other areas, then it's not something i'm interested in owning.
Hi, Would you still recommend investing in to a old dslr lense system from a position of not owning any glass prior? Looking at D850 for pure image quality and raw maluability. 1. Old glass is less expensive. 2. Better ergonomics 3. And the most important. When going mirrorless, either you have to get a contrast based AF system or you have to make a compromise in IQ by going with on-sensor PDAF. On-sensor phase detect has a detrimental effect on IQ. It causes PDAF striping and it's effects can be quite noticable when pulling detail from shadows when there is a strong perpendicular light source. Even without pixel peeping the striping causes loss in perceived depth and contrast. - What is your opinnion on investing in to a expensive dslr in 2022? - Have you encountered discussion about PDAF striping in mirrorless cameras?
@@mattisulanto Thank you for your reply. I got to test a Sony a7r II for PDAF streaking. The results are quite shocking. Shooting an image of a subject standing in front of the sun and covering it partly produces significant artifacting. The raw image contains what appears to be the phase detect pixels that are baked in to the image sensor rendered as white vertical dash lines (katkoviivat). If you are interested in this subject, it could be a fun "for science" test to perform. On your sony a7 iv or a7c camera. It should work for any mirrorless camera with a phase detect autofocus system. Me and many other photographers on the internet are trying to get this matter to general knowledge to help camera companies address this issue. Thank you for producing great content.
Thanks again Matti, you’re very centered and fair in your presentation, and the only ‘gear channel’ I watch anymore. One piece of advice that I give folks just starting out, is to try and identify the images that catch their eye, then try and identify what camera systems and lens were used to capture those images. New or used, I’m a lens geek so I start there. You date your camera, but marry your lenses. Micro 4/3? PanLeica lenses rule of course. GRiii? A superior lens with a little fiddly camera attached.. 😊
Agree, but most of what you said focuses (pun) around expected usage. For ten years I did teen sports photography.. but everybody in the know was why not Canon 1D or 3d tracking with Nikon etc.. I used Pentax first k5, k3 k5iis etc.. why? I learnt manual focus on consina and pentacon M42 lens so slow AF wasn't a problem, being a coach I could predict where the shot would be.. but #1 use case, I needed APS for high enough ISO and weather sealing as I am north of Seattle. You know it's bad when a well built lens with B+W filter gets water on the lens element on a horizontal rain day (heavy rain and high winds). Pentax worked. Yes I tried my Olympus gear but high iso for sport wasn't there till 20MP BSI sensors. So hard constraints and one affordable choice at the time. BTW for compact travel with changeable lens the Nikon 1 J5 and the Canon M3 have worked well for me too. Currently being slowly replaced by my fp and fp L. Keep up the good work. parhain terveisin
I completely agree. I thought I was going with Fujifilm and ended up with Olympus. I hated the feel the Fujifilm bodies. To me, Dynamic range and noise will improve on all sensors as time goes on so my only concern is DoF. I can work with that. Another friend who had a Sony A7 III with Tamron lenses for affordability and Olympus camera with few lenses. She sold all her Olympus equipment and realized later how much more she liked using the Olympus. Then she sold her Sony equipment to go back to Olympus. It was portability that she realized she liked more. She really likes the new 40-150mm f/4 lens. Now there was a friend who was considering Olympus and he had the Sony RX10. I actually helped him see he would be happy with the RX10 IV. That 1" is incredible. I think he also bought a RX100 too. He really does do some amazing work with those cameras. I know two Canon shooters that have played with other brands but they always felt uneasy. Once RF Mount came out, they knew they were sticking to Canon.
Excellent advice, thanks Matti. I believe you really must like your camera, it encourages you to go out and take photos. M43 is the most cost effective system, such high quality lenses for a reasonable price. For a camera with a fixed lens, one you didn't mention, the X100V is fab!
Thanks. I forgot the X100 series and also the Q, because I was thinking about compact cameras. But of course both the X100 and the Q deserve a mention.
Thank's for your advices about what camera should have. I'm a person who like to bring camera and few lenses (even only a fix lens) in my entire trips. I have many interesting experiences in my photography life when bring Olympus E-P5 with M.Zuiko 17mm f/2.8 in my trip. Because portability was more worthed for me. And now I will learn & make videography for my travel (and maybe for some jobs) besides making photography for this purpose. After saw this your video, maybe Panasonic MFT system will be my choice. Once again, thank u sir.
What's the harm in acknowledging that Gear Acquisition Syndrome (GAS) is an integral part of modern-day photography. Camera companies couldn't survive without it, and indeed they foster the desire to buy and buy and buy the newest and the latest and greatest. Look at Photokina and Fujikina and all the other venues with their endless secrecy and explosive hype. In the fight against phone makers, they'll either NEED to make GAS an even deeper part of the market or they'll have to raise prices so high the market will collapse. Without GAS we'd still be shooting Instamatic 100s and going to Fotomat, so Matti, here's a piece of sound advice. Get out there and buy - just like your life depends on it - because while your blog certainly does, the camera makers won't make it without us. With that in mind, there is no RIGHT camera, only the NEXT camera.
Hi Matti, I am a fan of your Vlogs. Please keep 'em coming. I have a question. Which camera do you find better? The SONY RX100 VI or the Panasonic Lumix TZ202? Would be grateful if you could answer me!
As you say, it's not "one size fits all" but for anyone getting serious about photography who's unsure about what type of photography they'd like to pursue (and most photographers evolve as they progress), I always recommend a 1" bridge camera, such as the Lumix FZ1000 (well under US$1,000) or Sony RX-10 iii/iv (if you want to shoot in the rain and a rain sleeve doesn't work for you and/or need that extra reach). Either camera is capable of producing museum-quality prints in the right hands, offer a nice zoom range (and a couple of seconds from one end to the other--much faster than you can change lenses), excellent macro capability (minimum focusing distance of 3cm), 4K video, and many other features. If after using such as camera you find you want FLs outside of the camera's range, then MILCs make the most sense for most people (DSLRs are outdated). If that's the case, then your choice depends on what area of specialization you wish to pursue. If that's "all-rounder" (meaning you want the ability to get great images of anything you happen to encounter in just about any conditions), then Micro Four Thirds is by far the best way to go. No matter your ability, experience, or subject matter, MFT is the only way to carry the full range of lenses and accessories you may need without a Sherpa (as you point out, long lenses for larger formats are ridiculously large, heavy, and cost a lot more. They also have have long minimum focusing distances, often require tripods, and are not optically superior to the best MFT glass. My choice is the Lumix G9, but the GH6 and Oly OM-1 are also great cameras. If you get a system camera, then that bridge camera makes a great back-up or when you want to travel even lighter (or for "dog walking" use, as it's easy to use one-handed). I respectfully disagree that "FF" offers any significant (=real world, not lab tests) IQ advantage over MFT and in fact has many disadvantages! Try a print challenge--make the same images from various combinations of body/sensor and then see if you can tell which print came from which (or if any potential customer can). There's a reason why so many people (and I thought you were one of them) say that "gear doesn't matter" and that is so true. As long as you have the hardware (and software, and know how to use both) you need to make the image you seek, it's up to you to realize your artistic potential. Some of the best images in history were made using equipment of very limited capability/performance in comparison with even many phone-based units. I'm not recommending anyone use a phone as their primary camera (too limited FL range and user control), but anything larger than MFT is a waste of money for 99.99+% of photographers (including most who charge for their services).
Thanks. Regarding the FF better IQ. Like I said in the video, not everyone needs that, but it's there. If you, or I, don't see any difference, it doesn't mean there is no difference. People tend to see what they like/want to see. I'm just saying FF IQ is better than for example MFT IQ, but I'm not saying you could not make amazing photos on both.
@@mattisulanto I appreciate what you're saying. but regardless of the "numbers" (and you know that pixel peeping is pointless), IMO it's almost always a waste of money to chose "FF" or APS-C over MFT. In virtually every case, nobody will be able to tell any difference in the results (varying degrees of overkill) and you'll give up the portability, superior stabilization, speed, and other MFT features (plus spend a lot more). In some (but not all) cases, you may gain a bit of DR (but not to level justifying all of the disadvantages, especially as in those rare cases where you push the camera's DR limits, you can often bracket). Hey, as you say "People tend to see what they like/want to see"--that certainly applies to succumbing to the marketing hype surrounding so-called "FF" (which was created solely so that 135-format film shooters wouldn't have to buy new lenses when going digital--same for APS-C). The reason I'm so passionate about MFT is that I truly believe that it provides the best balance of any photographic system yet to emerge, but the "big boys" (SoNiCanon) push the bigger systems because they make more profit on them, and I want those of lesser means to be able to afford a truly great, full-range camera system. MFT provides much more than sufficient capability and is more affordable (there's a reason it's the most popular format in Japan). Ironically, you played a large role in my choosing the G9 over the A7iii, so thanks for that--I have no regrets (nor plans to get a larger system--my elbows are injured from sports and even the G9/battery grip/Leica 100-400 combination at about 2kg requires I use two hands these days to avoid stress). It's so nice to not be burdened by a large/heavy/awkward pack.
Would you buy a used E-M1 Mk III at half the price of an OM-1 which would allow for the purchase of a good PRO lens when on a budget? You’d miss out on potentially amazing firmware updates with the newer camera and the used model may not get that support in the future. Until a newer model comes out the flagship model is always the best model available, which means it’s pretty darn good. Love your videos.
The majority of people who watch Matti Sulanto and other photography channels are not professional photographers or videographers - and even if we are, we don't need the best flagship camera today (which might change anyway in a couple of years) The EM-1 mark iii is absolutely more than enough camera for a lot of us :)
@@abhishekvsmalyala absolutely true. In fact a lot of professional photographers don’t upgrade frequently. They can’t justify it. Some RUclips reviewers, on the other hand, seem to change their gear more frequently than their underwear. I just sold my Canon 5D MK IV to a pro wedding photographer. He now has two. Mine replaces his 6D. He did so because he wanted an identical camera layout and settings when shooting. I’m going with the lightly used E-M1.3 which will allow me to buy a choice PRO lens. Something that I wouldn’t be able to do if I purchased the OM-1.
@@mattisulanto I'm tending to agree. I can buy the M1.3 for $1,400 CDN, the OM-1 costs $2,799.99 CAD in Canada. Add the 12-40 Pro f/2.8 and that takes the OM-1 to $3,599.99. That opens up $1,400 CAD for lens purchases if considering the body only. Great lenses can be had either new or used or both. Might as well go high quality used. I don't do a lot of bird photography. I shoot more landscape, street and events for. I only make a small amount of money shooting events, since I don't do many events. It's hard to justify the OM-1 at my level of requirement.
I have been using Canon from the beginning I haven't fount anything negative on my 6d mkii yet. And have some L lenses which I love. Nothing of my gear is bought new. Even got a Tamron Adaptall-2 SP 52B 90mm F2.5. Got that at a thrift store with a camera. The camera and 2 lenses was around 200 sek. This lens is great.
It's hard to identify the preferences and ideal choices beforehand. Be it camera functions or lens parameters. Renting often won't help much as it's difficult to judge a system and its usability long-term from one or two test days of overexcitement. Unless someone cashes out the best there is for their area of interest and it happens to be that right area, there will probably be bunch of adjustments along the way in forms of selling buying exchanging learning new things and repeating.
I have a question for you: Did you buy your camera for me or for yourself? I think your camera dealer can help you with the money back thing, if there is something wrong with your camera.
A point of note. Within the first few times you go out and use your 'new' camera, someone is going to come up to you and tell you that you should have bought something else and tell you why. Be prepared to get over it before it happens.
That's the dark side of photographers: they always look at your gear but would never look at your results! Gear does not matter as far as you enjoy taking photos and what you have does the trick reasonably well.
As an amateur with a low budget, I would get a consumer grade body used, 1 or 2 models older than the current model. This gets you the most technology for the money. Then I would get some intermediate grade lenses that are a great improvement over the kit lens. In the Canon line these lenses usually have "USM" on them, metal mounts, etc.
Since the original A7 (2013) i never buy gear brand-new, because 1) it's way overpriced, too expensive 2) it does have (digital ones) bugs, which needs being fixed, sorted out over time via firmware updates 3) nothing needs new being produced, because you do buy what was already being produced, and avialable onto the market - it's better for the planet (limited) ressources. I only buy gear, into mint condition, and low shutter count. And you're right matti - we don't need perfect IQ, etc, etc...but people hunt always for better lenses, etc. About APS-C systems, i am not into the same ballpark here, because fujifilm does have ~36 lenses with 2 teleconverters, it's the best bar none APS-C lineup into the business. Not Sony, not 3rd party, and especially Canikon can't compete into the APS-C/DX area here. Fujifilm is the best for that term.
It would be very hard to buy a bad camera today. They are all good. And despite what the manufacturers want you to think, there is no one best camera. There is a best camera for me and what I want to do with it. Which may change tomorrow. If a person is just starting and wanting to move up from a cellphone, I would suggest finding out what your friends use. Then get that brand (used with basic lenses) so they can help you. That help will mean a lot over trying to learn on your own. If they know the controls of the camera you are using, when you are out taking photos with them, they can quickly help you. There will always be the how can I do this questions. As you use it and learn, you will know what you want in a camera. Until you use it for awhile, you will have no idea where your passion lays. It may be with something you are not even thinking of until you a camera and use it awhile. IF you buy used you can trade it in later for what you want after you learn.
Great advice, thank you. I definitely have gained a lot of insight in the past following your ideas about camera gear and photography, and still do. Perhaps my best advice for people is to not buy a phone for taking important photos, and not because of image quality. It's because it's just too complicated and invasive dealing with Google, Apple and Facebook software. They really go out of their way to try to control and invade your family privacy, and it isn't that straightforward to directly transfer images from the phone camera to your computer.
All excellent advice, especially on the buying used. Yes, the newest bodies are faster, better, more. However, the core imaging technology has long matured. At the fundamental level of the recorded image, even bodies of a couple of generations ago are practically indistinguishable from the most current. An example is the old Canon 6D and the new hotness, the R6. A 6D with a L series zoom or a nice set of primes is literally under $1k USD. What a deal. I just pulled my old 6D out for a portraiture session a week ago. The image quality still amazes. By the way, for those in the States, KEH, MPB and usedPhotoPro are really the gotos for the more expensive used gear. Specifically, I've been purchasing from KEH for three decades now. I'd stay away from EBay for anything other than what you said, that $50 potential throw away.
Over half of the people who have asked me this question aren’t really interested in photography, they just want certain photographs, usually involving a long zoom. For them, I believe there really is only one camera on the market that has good glass at a relatively low price: the Panasonic Lumix FZ300. Those who have bought it tell me they are very pleased.
Credo che il sistema migliore sia quello con il quale ci si trova meglio professionista o fotoamatore non importa . Avendo la possibilità economica le proverei tutte 😅😅👋👋.
Either a Samsung S22 Ultra, or a real full-frame camera. So I bought a Canon 6D (classic), because I don´t like smartphones, although they produce great pics...
Which camera should I buy? The Hasselblad X2D, with the the f2. 5 / 55mm. There, I've answered the question. Hahahaha! I have already decided. I just need to raid my savings.
I promise not to hate you if I buy a camera you recommend. Besides, I really like lots of different kinds of cameras. I feel like they are tools in a toolbox. Don't drive nails with a crowbar. Don't cut through a board with a rasp. Every tool does some job well. Imagine some old crusty 4x5 film camera. It costs $15 (or more) every time you press the shutter. And it will be quite a while before you discover if the image is good. A piece of trash? Not at all. There are half a billion bits of information in the image it takes, and the old glass makes really interesting atmosphere. And there is nothing electronic that can go wrong. It's just a box with a lens on one end and a sheet of film on the other. So if I can like a camera like that, I can like anything. I do like the modern stuff, don't get me wrong. I have full frame cameras and APS-C and MFT cameras. I even have some point and shoot camera with tiny sensors. On a hike up to Comet Falls on Mt Rainier (only about a mile but pretty steep), I am not bringing a full frame camera with 10 lenses or an old 4x5 camera. I am old, out of shape, and don't want to suffer. So I will bring my little Olympus Pen E-PL7 or maybe even one of the tiny 20MP shirt pocket cameras. If I am going to take a portrait, then a high resolution full frame camera is in order (or perhaps a 4x5). I might want to put some fun film in a Canon EOS 1N HS like lomo purple, infra red, or Adox CMS II high resolution b&w. These kinds of things require a particular camera. So there is nothing like a fully stocked tool box. Just don't try to lug the whole thing up a mountain trail. I have one advice for someone who wants to buy a camera and is not sure. Rent it for a weekend first and give it a full tryout. A lot cheaper than buying the whole lot and then finding out it does not do what you want to do.
Hi Matti, hard to disagree with your points. However, between the lines the only way a complete newbie can follow your advice is to go to a physical camera store and try things out physically. You said about choosing lenses also but it is a bit like a chicken and the egg and which is first. If I have no idea get a nifty fifty and then see which direction you might go. Also one can only hope that the salesperson is reasonably knowledegeable and doesn't try to push a particular brand or camera on a newbie customer.
The most important thing to set camera system is your experience. Spend a lot of money and time, And experience Pros and Cons. Then you will be able to fix your system. There is no other way if you are not a person who can be satisfied with any camera system. Trust me.
"PLEASE CHECK THE STATUS OF A LENS"......not a so uncommon error problem for some M-Zuiko lenses. Do your due diligence and research if buying used. Been there twice. Be safe
@@mattisulanto He's one of Spain's best B&W photographers, and has 48K followers in IG. Still his philosophy is to only use second generation cameras and third party lenses. And now he makes the best B&W images from Lofoten, Norway!
Reasonable choice! Very good tip to get camera/lenses secondhand / used condition. I only get it on this way meanwhile. And yes: sympathy is t h e most advice!
Its the same as comparing 4cyl vehicles with V8 vehicles. Which is better? If you are a professional driver who wants to appear professional, would you use a 4cyl car? Different camps would hv their own stories, excuses and justifications. In the end, its ALL about PRICE/MONEY. Hypothetically, if the Sony A7RIV and its lenses are all priced the same as a Lumix G9 and all M4/3 lenses, millions would run out to buy the Sony full frame camera and lenses…..and then praise full frame sensors on American social media
What a nice person you are. You talk slowly so that one can understand, no whistles, no noisy music. You just explain and you feel very, very trustworthy. Your channel is a bright star!
Thanks. I can't talk fast, not even my first language😀
Here are my 5 tips
Buy a used camera body but not well worn
Buy a used fast prime
Buy a used standard or telephoto zoom
Buy a flash
Don’t listen to RUclips influencers on why you need this or why you should switch systems or why this sensor is inferior
And practice practice practice. You can produce amazing results with used old stuff and practice and save your money.
Thanks. Very good advice.
Was an absolute beginner and bought a new Lumix G9 with 12-60 Leica. Fantastic camera. Fantastic lens. I am more than satisfied. Bought a couple of lenses (100-300 Pana, 42,5mm Oly, 25mm Pana) and can shoot nearly anything I am interested in.
Thanks.
Instead of camera brand preference, I'd suggest to go in a physical store and pick the body up in your hands: you would probably come out with something completely different then what you thought going in. You could have the best specs in your camera, but if you dislike holding it and fight the control every time you will end not taking it out with you, and a camera left at home is of little use.
Thanks. Hands on is always a good idea.
I agree. I was going with Fujifilm X-T2 and left with an Olympus E-M10 Mark II. I HATED the feel of Fujifilm. 8mp less, less dynamic range & more DoF equivalent. Never looked back.
@@RobShootPhotos I went in to buy a Sony A7lll and came out with a Canon RP! 😅
What the point of all the Dynamic range and technology if I want to smash the camera against the wall each time I pick it up?
I even tried a Nikon Z6 and Canon EOS R, but the RP was simply fitting in my hands and fell in bag (and was half the price too)
@@Leptospirosi it's funny because I had low expectations for the RP and I also was impressed with the feel of it.
@Zumzifero Excellent comment. So true. I went in to a camera shop years ago, to buy my first digital SLR thinking back to my last film camera, a Nikon FM2. I ended up buying an Olympus E-500 because it just felt good in my hand. I’d never owned an Olympus before, so as you suggest, the brand is not the most important aspect when deciding on a camera. Cheers.
Started out with a used Nikon D810 (800 dollars from Japan) a few months ago and am really happy with it so far. Had photography as a hobby in my teens and my own darkroom etc. in 1989, so it feels great to rediscover this hobby which adds a whole new dimension to travelling and looking at the world in general. Thanks for this great channel.
Thanks. $800 sound very reasonable for a D810.
#6 is a great advice, but I’d like to add #7 to that: be honest to yourself. In our workshops I talk to a lot of enthusiast photographers who’ve spend a fortune on ‘the best’ since that’s their ambition. An expensive full-frame or otherwise top-of-the-line kit doesn’t make you a better photographer. If you’re new to photography, start with one lens (e.g. 35/50mm equiv.) and you’ll notice what you need next. If you already have a catalogue, check which focal lenghts you’ve used most. That’s what you need for your new camera as well. Last year we had a guy in our portrait workshop who was entirely new to photography. In preparation he bought an A7RIV with the entire f2.8 trinity of zooms. Only to find out that a 50 or 85mm would have been perfect and pref. also a much simpler camera. For some reason these are always men…😂. So, ask yourself what subjects do you find fun to shoot and adjust your choice to that. Be honest. One portrait doesn’t make you a portrait photographer… and even they only have 2 or 3 go-to lenses (max.).
Thanks for sharing your addition😀
I also agree on this. I some times wonder why i have so many lenses when i mostly use trusty 70-200mm f2.8 is usm ii or 150-600mm Sigma sport when its season for birdphotograpy.
I think practical features like portability, battery life, or wheater sealing, are more important for most people than sensor size or image quality. Unfortunately, they are often ignored.
Thanks. Those are also important, but for example battery life depends a lot on how you use the camera.
Agreed. I chased sensor size for years and IQ only to find I became less discreet, took less pics, and even left the camera at home. I liked the 1 inch sensor models and even the 1/1.7 sensors with a fast lenses gave some great jpegs.
I bought a Panasonic micro four thirds in 2009 because I am a cliber and walker and wanted a lightweight camera system. I could not afford Leica, so this new system was just the system for me. And from 2009 to the present day it has worked for me, for both still and video !
Thanks.
Hi Matti,
i do think - the right camera, is that one that suits you the most, into the best possible way - means, it doesn't distract you into any way, and it's being "just a Tool" to let you do the job - taking fine compositions, without getting on your nerves, or having issues. ;-)
A fine weekend.
Greetings
I just purchased a new camera and new lens, it may or may not have affected my decision much to watch this video, but I really wish I had watched it prior to ordering. Very thorough video on selecting a camera. I stuck with the M43 system but I wanted to switch from Panasonic to Olympus, so I went with a OMD EM10 Mark IV w/45mm. I have a a wonderful PanLeica 15mm and a Panasonic 25mm. I think I now have a serviceable travel, street, and still-life system. Eventually I may get the new OM Systems camera, but a combination of this new Olympus and my LUMIX GX9 will work for now. Thanks again for such a good video.
Thanks for sharing.
love my canon m6 mk ii but really want a GR3 just on a tight budget lately if you compare the two cameras though am I really missing out? like I wonder if I'd really fall in love with the GR the way many of my friends seem to.
Great Advice. Thank You. I would add one more. If Photography is not your living, buy camera and lens you can carry easily. I had Canon M50 that I can keep anywhere in bag or carry in hand as if it is point and shoot. It was not weather seal so I sold it and brought Canon EOS R6 + 24-105 L lens. Man, walking with Camera is a project in itself. I am planning to buy Sony A7C with small lens as Canon does not make compact full frame camera.
Thanks.
I love Nikon! I just bought an Apple 14 Pro Max because the best camera is the one you have with you.
Really good tips for any beginner phtographer. When you start this hobby you may think that you need the best for best results but its not true. We have done great photos for many years now so used gear is more then viable to start with.
Go out and take photos to learn your camera and exapand your skills with what you have and then learn how to edit photos for best possible result.
Thanks.
Re ergonomics, not just the physical handling of the body and controls, but the layout of the menus, customisation etc. I've had several Panasonic M4/3 bodies (first a GF1, then a GX-7, now a GX-8 and GX-9, plus a GM-5 to replace a compact) and feel completely at home with them. With more free time now for landscape photography, I recently decided to get a full-frame camera and went with a (heavily discounted) S1R. The familiar ergonomics have helped me to get up to speed with it.
Being able to use the same flashguns and some other accessories (e.g. remote release across S1R and GX-8) has been a further bonus.
Thanks for sharing.
Just got a like new Olympus em 1 mk Ii with less than 1000 actuations in the original box with all accessories except manual for $699.98. Also looked at a couple of Lumix bodies but they were $250 more than the Olympus. Prefer micro 4/3 since switching from Canon in 2019. Good info in this video.
Thank you.
Best advice you can give… 👍
I bought a used GX8 with the Olympus 12-40/2.8 standard zoom lens (offered as a set) in great conditions. There are a few cosmetic cons on this camera, but over all…such a great little piece of tech, i love it. Like you said, the over all counts…
Many thanks Matti!
Thank you so much.
@@mattisulanto you and your vid’s are always welcome, a great pleasure to watch them every time…so, thank you 👍
I could never hate you, Matti.
One thing to look out for is ergonomics. How does it feel in the hands ?
Thanks😀 Ergonomics is definitely important.
I traded in my Panasonic Lumix GH3 for a second hand Lumix G100 MFT camera whch allows me to have interchangable lens. Perfect for travel (fits in my pocket), Photo &video(4K). I alsopurchased a second hand Olympus lens. I agree with you - secondhand is a good way to go and not break the bank.
Thanks for sharing.
which camera you suggest for Cosplay Photography? for good skin tone and hairs. please suggest thankyou..
Any camera is good if you know how to use it.
If you aren't following this gentle man, while you are keen on photography, then you are losing A LOT OF experience.
Perhaps what people sometimes don't think through so much are the design attributes and technologies that will allow them to shoot what they want and when they want. For me, these are things like weather-sealing, IBIS, screen configuration (fixed, articulating or flippy) and the ability to select from any one of a number of custom settings quickly and easily - things that mean you can respond quickly and accurately to changes in the environment or of subject.... things that expand possibilities. If a camera doesn't have the right combination of these attributes, no matter how good in other areas, then it's not something i'm interested in owning.
Hi,
Would you still recommend investing in to a old dslr lense system from a position of not owning any glass prior? Looking at D850 for pure image quality and raw maluability.
1. Old glass is less expensive.
2. Better ergonomics
3. And the most important. When going mirrorless, either you have to get a contrast based AF system or you have to make a compromise in IQ by going with on-sensor PDAF.
On-sensor phase detect has a detrimental effect on IQ. It causes PDAF striping and it's effects can be quite noticable when pulling detail from shadows when there is a strong perpendicular light source. Even without pixel peeping the striping causes loss in perceived depth and contrast.
- What is your opinnion on investing in to a expensive dslr in 2022?
- Have you encountered discussion about PDAF striping in mirrorless cameras?
I would not buy any expensive DSLR set up any more. I could buy a cheap DSLR system. I have never seen any stripes in my photos.
@@mattisulanto Thank you for your reply.
I got to test a Sony a7r II for PDAF streaking. The results are quite shocking. Shooting an image of a subject standing in front of the sun and covering it partly produces significant artifacting. The raw image contains what appears to be the phase detect pixels that are baked in to the image sensor rendered as white vertical dash lines (katkoviivat).
If you are interested in this subject, it could be a fun "for science" test to perform. On your sony a7 iv or a7c camera. It should work for any mirrorless camera with a phase detect autofocus system.
Me and many other photographers on the internet are trying to get this matter to general knowledge to help camera companies address this issue.
Thank you for producing great content.
@@DrPew-mu9sc Thanks for that info. I have to test that myself.
Thanks again Matti, you’re very centered and fair in your presentation, and the only ‘gear channel’ I watch anymore. One piece of advice that I give folks just starting out, is to try and identify the images that catch their eye, then try and identify what camera systems and lens were used to capture those images. New or used, I’m a lens geek so I start there. You date your camera, but marry your lenses. Micro 4/3? PanLeica lenses rule of course. GRiii? A superior lens with a little fiddly camera attached.. 😊
Thanks for that compliment! Good advice too.
Agree, but most of what you said focuses (pun) around expected usage. For ten years I did teen sports photography.. but everybody in the know was why not Canon 1D or 3d tracking with Nikon etc.. I used Pentax first k5, k3 k5iis etc.. why? I learnt manual focus on consina and pentacon M42 lens so slow AF wasn't a problem, being a coach I could predict where the shot would be.. but #1 use case, I needed APS for high enough ISO and weather sealing as I am north of Seattle. You know it's bad when a well built lens with B+W filter gets water on the lens element on a horizontal rain day (heavy rain and high winds). Pentax worked. Yes I tried my Olympus gear but high iso for sport wasn't there till 20MP BSI sensors. So hard constraints and one affordable choice at the time.
BTW for compact travel with changeable lens the Nikon 1 J5 and the Canon M3 have worked well for me too. Currently being slowly replaced by my fp and fp L.
Keep up the good work. parhain terveisin
Thanks for your comment.
These tips are really useful. Thank you!
You're so welcome!
Wide genre wide options you covered thanks
I completely agree. I thought I was going with Fujifilm and ended up with Olympus. I hated the feel the Fujifilm bodies. To me, Dynamic range and noise will improve on all sensors as time goes on so my only concern is DoF. I can work with that.
Another friend who had a Sony A7 III with Tamron lenses for affordability and Olympus camera with few lenses. She sold all her Olympus equipment and realized later how much more she liked using the Olympus. Then she sold her Sony equipment to go back to Olympus. It was portability that she realized she liked more. She really likes the new 40-150mm f/4 lens.
Now there was a friend who was considering Olympus and he had the Sony RX10. I actually helped him see he would be happy with the RX10 IV. That 1" is incredible. I think he also bought a RX100 too. He really does do some amazing work with those cameras.
I know two Canon shooters that have played with other brands but they always felt uneasy. Once RF Mount came out, they knew they were sticking to Canon.
Thanks.
Excellent advice, thanks Matti. I believe you really must like your camera, it encourages you to go out and take photos. M43 is the most cost effective system, such high quality lenses for a reasonable price.
For a camera with a fixed lens, one you didn't mention, the X100V is fab!
Thanks. I forgot the X100 series and also the Q, because I was thinking about compact cameras. But of course both the X100 and the Q deserve a mention.
Thank's for your advices about what camera should have. I'm a person who like to bring camera and few lenses (even only a fix lens) in my entire trips. I have many interesting experiences in my photography life when bring Olympus E-P5 with M.Zuiko 17mm f/2.8 in my trip. Because portability was more worthed for me. And now I will learn & make videography for my travel (and maybe for some jobs) besides making photography for this purpose. After saw this your video, maybe Panasonic MFT system will be my choice. Once again, thank u sir.
What's the harm in acknowledging that Gear Acquisition Syndrome (GAS) is an integral part of modern-day photography. Camera companies couldn't survive without it, and indeed they foster the desire to buy and buy and buy the newest and the latest and greatest. Look at Photokina and Fujikina and all the other venues with their endless secrecy and explosive hype. In the fight against phone makers, they'll either NEED to make GAS an even deeper part of the market or they'll have to raise prices so high the market will collapse. Without GAS we'd still be shooting Instamatic 100s and going to Fotomat, so Matti, here's a piece of sound advice. Get out there and buy - just like your life depends on it - because while your blog certainly does, the camera makers won't make it without us. With that in mind, there is no RIGHT camera, only the NEXT camera.
Hi Matti, I am a fan of your Vlogs. Please keep 'em coming.
I have a question. Which camera do you find better?
The SONY RX100 VI or the Panasonic Lumix TZ202?
Would be grateful if you could answer me!
Thanks. My choice would be the Sony.
Thank you so much for your reply. I read that the Sony's battery is weak.
@@mohiki69 Yes, you should have a spare with you.
As you say, it's not "one size fits all" but for anyone getting serious about photography who's unsure about what type of photography they'd like to pursue (and most photographers evolve as they progress), I always recommend a 1" bridge camera, such as the Lumix FZ1000 (well under US$1,000) or Sony RX-10 iii/iv (if you want to shoot in the rain and a rain sleeve doesn't work for you and/or need that extra reach). Either camera is capable of producing museum-quality prints in the right hands, offer a nice zoom range (and a couple of seconds from one end to the other--much faster than you can change lenses), excellent macro capability (minimum focusing distance of 3cm), 4K video, and many other features.
If after using such as camera you find you want FLs outside of the camera's range, then MILCs make the most sense for most people (DSLRs are outdated). If that's the case, then your choice depends on what area of specialization you wish to pursue. If that's "all-rounder" (meaning you want the ability to get great images of anything you happen to encounter in just about any conditions), then Micro Four Thirds is by far the best way to go. No matter your ability, experience, or subject matter, MFT is the only way to carry the full range of lenses and accessories you may need without a Sherpa (as you point out, long lenses for larger formats are ridiculously large, heavy, and cost a lot more. They also have have long minimum focusing distances, often require tripods, and are not optically superior to the best MFT glass. My choice is the Lumix G9, but the GH6 and Oly OM-1 are also great cameras. If you get a system camera, then that bridge camera makes a great back-up or when you want to travel even lighter (or for "dog walking" use, as it's easy to use one-handed).
I respectfully disagree that "FF" offers any significant (=real world, not lab tests) IQ advantage over MFT and in fact has many disadvantages! Try a print challenge--make the same images from various combinations of body/sensor and then see if you can tell which print came from which (or if any potential customer can). There's a reason why so many people (and I thought you were one of them) say that "gear doesn't matter" and that is so true. As long as you have the hardware (and software, and know how to use both) you need to make the image you seek, it's up to you to realize your artistic potential. Some of the best images in history were made using equipment of very limited capability/performance in comparison with even many phone-based units. I'm not recommending anyone use a phone as their primary camera (too limited FL range and user control), but anything larger than MFT is a waste of money for 99.99+% of photographers (including most who charge for their services).
Thanks. Regarding the FF better IQ. Like I said in the video, not everyone needs that, but it's there. If you, or I, don't see any difference, it doesn't mean there is no difference. People tend to see what they like/want to see. I'm just saying FF IQ is better than for example MFT IQ, but I'm not saying you could not make amazing photos on both.
@@mattisulanto I appreciate what you're saying. but regardless of the "numbers" (and you know that pixel peeping is pointless), IMO it's almost always a waste of money to chose "FF" or APS-C over MFT. In virtually every case, nobody will be able to tell any difference in the results (varying degrees of overkill) and you'll give up the portability, superior stabilization, speed, and other MFT features (plus spend a lot more). In some (but not all) cases, you may gain a bit of DR (but not to level justifying all of the disadvantages, especially as in those rare cases where you push the camera's DR limits, you can often bracket). Hey, as you say "People tend to see what they like/want to see"--that certainly applies to succumbing to the marketing hype surrounding so-called "FF" (which was created solely so that 135-format film shooters wouldn't have to buy new lenses when going digital--same for APS-C).
The reason I'm so passionate about MFT is that I truly believe that it provides the best balance of any photographic system yet to emerge, but the "big boys" (SoNiCanon) push the bigger systems because they make more profit on them, and I want those of lesser means to be able to afford a truly great, full-range camera system. MFT provides much more than sufficient capability and is more affordable (there's a reason it's the most popular format in Japan). Ironically, you played a large role in my choosing the G9 over the A7iii, so thanks for that--I have no regrets (nor plans to get a larger system--my elbows are injured from sports and even the G9/battery grip/Leica 100-400 combination at about 2kg requires I use two hands these days to avoid stress). It's so nice to not be burdened by a large/heavy/awkward pack.
Would you buy a used E-M1 Mk III at half the price of an OM-1 which would allow for the purchase of a good PRO lens when on a budget? You’d miss out on potentially amazing firmware updates with the newer camera and the used model may not get that support in the future. Until a newer model comes out the flagship model is always the best model available, which means it’s pretty darn good.
Love your videos.
The majority of people who watch Matti Sulanto and other photography channels are not professional photographers or videographers - and even if we are, we don't need the best flagship camera today (which might change anyway in a couple of years)
The EM-1 mark iii is absolutely more than enough camera for a lot of us :)
@@abhishekvsmalyala absolutely true. In fact a lot of professional photographers don’t upgrade frequently. They can’t justify it.
Some RUclips reviewers, on the other hand, seem to change their gear more frequently than their underwear.
I just sold my Canon 5D MK IV to a pro wedding photographer. He now has two. Mine replaces his 6D. He did so because he wanted an identical camera layout and settings when shooting.
I’m going with the lightly used E-M1.3 which will allow me to buy a choice PRO lens. Something that I wouldn’t be able to do if I purchased the OM-1.
Thanks! I'd probably buy the half price M1 MkIII, because it's already a really good camera.
@@mattisulanto I'm tending to agree. I can buy the M1.3 for $1,400 CDN, the OM-1 costs $2,799.99 CAD in Canada. Add the 12-40 Pro f/2.8 and that takes the OM-1 to $3,599.99. That opens up $1,400 CAD for lens purchases if considering the body only. Great lenses can be had either new or used or both. Might as well go high quality used. I don't do a lot of bird photography. I shoot more landscape, street and events for. I only make a small amount of money shooting events, since I don't do many events. It's hard to justify the OM-1 at my level of requirement.
@@normstangl3499 Your reasoning makes sense to me.
I have been using Canon from the beginning I haven't fount anything negative on my 6d mkii yet.
And have some L lenses which I love.
Nothing of my gear is bought new.
Even got a Tamron Adaptall-2 SP 52B 90mm F2.5. Got that at a thrift store with a camera. The camera and 2 lenses was around 200 sek. This lens is great.
Thanks so much for sharing.
I actually want a Nikon d850
Even people Say it's too Big and heavy
But I don't care I want a BEAST of a camera
That is a beast indeed, but at least you can feel what you paid for😀
Check out the Panasonic S1R. It’s a beast and a fantastic mirrorless camera.
@@rumporridge1 thanks I Will
I do love Lumix
It's hard to identify the preferences and ideal choices beforehand. Be it camera functions or lens parameters. Renting often won't help much as it's difficult to judge a system and its usability long-term from one or two test days of overexcitement. Unless someone cashes out the best there is for their area of interest and it happens to be that right area, there will probably be bunch of adjustments along the way in forms of selling buying exchanging learning new things and repeating.
Thanks for sharing.
sony rx10 iv really does it all
So as a Lumix ambassador you convinced us to go micro four-thirds but now full frame is better? Can I get my money back?
I have a question for you: Did you buy your camera for me or for yourself? I think your camera dealer can help you with the money back thing, if there is something wrong with your camera.
I bought a camera based on what I thought were honest reviews. Not paid advertising.
A point of note. Within the first few times you go out and use your 'new' camera, someone is going to come up to you and tell you that you should have bought something else and tell you why. Be prepared to get over it before it happens.
That's the dark side of photographers: they always look at your gear but would never look at your results!
Gear does not matter as far as you enjoy taking photos and what you have does the trick reasonably well.
Good point, that can happen😀
As an amateur with a low budget, I would get a consumer grade body used, 1 or 2 models older than the current model. This gets you the most technology for the money. Then I would get some intermediate grade lenses that are a great improvement over the kit lens. In the Canon line these lenses usually have "USM" on them, metal mounts, etc.
Thanks for your excellent advice.
Since the original A7 (2013) i never buy gear brand-new, because 1) it's way overpriced, too expensive 2) it does have (digital ones) bugs, which needs being fixed, sorted out over time via firmware updates 3) nothing needs new being produced, because you do buy what was already being produced, and avialable onto the market - it's better for the planet (limited) ressources. I only buy gear, into mint condition, and low shutter count.
And you're right matti - we don't need perfect IQ, etc, etc...but people hunt always for better lenses, etc. About APS-C systems, i am not into the same ballpark here, because fujifilm does have ~36 lenses with 2 teleconverters, it's the best bar none APS-C lineup into the business. Not Sony, not 3rd party, and especially Canikon can't compete into the APS-C/DX area here. Fujifilm is the best for that term.
Thanks for sharing.
It would be very hard to buy a bad camera today. They are all good. And despite what the manufacturers want you to think, there is no one best camera. There is a best camera for me and what I want to do with it. Which may change tomorrow. If a person is just starting and wanting to move up from a cellphone, I would suggest finding out what your friends use. Then get that brand (used with basic lenses) so they can help you. That help will mean a lot over trying to learn on your own. If they know the controls of the camera you are using, when you are out taking photos with them, they can quickly help you. There will always be the how can I do this questions. As you use it and learn, you will know what you want in a camera. Until you use it for awhile, you will have no idea where your passion lays. It may be with something you are not even thinking of until you a camera and use it awhile. IF you buy used you can trade it in later for what you want after you learn.
Thanks. Indeed, all cameras are really good. You just have to find to right one for you.
Great advice, thank you. I definitely have gained a lot of insight in the past following your ideas about camera gear and photography, and still do.
Perhaps my best advice for people is to not buy a phone for taking important photos, and not because of image quality. It's because it's just too complicated and invasive dealing with Google, Apple and Facebook software.
They really go out of their way to try to control and invade your family privacy, and it isn't that straightforward to directly transfer images from the phone camera to your computer.
Thanks.
These technopoly companies are killing us.
All excellent advice, especially on the buying used.
Yes, the newest bodies are faster, better, more. However, the core imaging technology has long matured. At the fundamental level of the recorded image, even bodies of a couple of generations ago are practically indistinguishable from the most current. An example is the old Canon 6D and the new hotness, the R6. A 6D with a L series zoom or a nice set of primes is literally under $1k USD. What a deal.
I just pulled my old 6D out for a portraiture session a week ago. The image quality still amazes.
By the way, for those in the States, KEH, MPB and usedPhotoPro are really the gotos for the more expensive used gear. Specifically, I've been purchasing from KEH for three decades now. I'd stay away from EBay for anything other than what you said, that $50 potential throw away.
Thanks. I have used the 6D back in the day and I liked it a lot.
Hello Matti, nice advice. As a system I think Sony is the best for me. But deep inside I am a Fuji X100 fanboy 😊
Thanks. You could be a lot worse inside than a Fuji X100 fanboy😀
Over half of the people who have asked me this question aren’t really interested in photography, they just want certain photographs, usually involving a long zoom. For them, I believe there really is only one camera on the market that has good glass at a relatively low price: the Panasonic Lumix FZ300. Those who have bought it tell me they are very pleased.
Thanks for sharing your advice.
Great video for stills shooters,and not vloggers for a change.
Thanks. I'm a photographer😀
Great video!
Glad you enjoyed it!
Which studio monitors(audio) are those behind you?
They are the PreSonus Eris E3.5. Affordable but good value.
@@mattisulanto ok.
Credo che il sistema migliore sia quello con il quale ci si trova meglio professionista o fotoamatore non importa . Avendo la possibilità economica le proverei tutte 😅😅👋👋.
Either a Samsung S22 Ultra, or a real full-frame camera. So I bought a Canon 6D (classic), because I don´t like smartphones, although they produce great pics...
Thanks.
@@mattisulanto Thanks for the video!
Hi Matti, can you please do a video of the Pentax? Thank you!
I'll probably do something with that Pentax😀
Camera which feels great in hand and don’t break wallet
The perfect video but I am late...I bought a Canon 800D new, almost 3 years ago...and I would Really likes to trade in for a m43
Thanks. Maybe this will help if you buy another camera some day in the future.
Which camera should I buy?
The Hasselblad X2D, with the the f2. 5 / 55mm.
There, I've answered the question. Hahahaha! I have already decided. I just need to raid my savings.
Good for you. I hope you'll enjoy your new Hasselblad when you get it.
Thinking about selling my motorcycle to get that same set up.
@@rumporridge1 fully justified, I'd say.
Go right for it. That Hasselblad and lenses will retain their value, perhaps just as well as the motorbike.
@@---us7qf fun times indeed for the serious tog.
I promise not to hate you if I buy a camera you recommend. Besides, I really like lots of different kinds of cameras. I feel like they are tools in a toolbox. Don't drive nails with a crowbar. Don't cut through a board with a rasp. Every tool does some job well. Imagine some old crusty 4x5 film camera. It costs $15 (or more) every time you press the shutter. And it will be quite a while before you discover if the image is good. A piece of trash? Not at all. There are half a billion bits of information in the image it takes, and the old glass makes really interesting atmosphere. And there is nothing electronic that can go wrong. It's just a box with a lens on one end and a sheet of film on the other. So if I can like a camera like that, I can like anything. I do like the modern stuff, don't get me wrong. I have full frame cameras and APS-C and MFT cameras. I even have some point and shoot camera with tiny sensors. On a hike up to Comet Falls on Mt Rainier (only about a mile but pretty steep), I am not bringing a full frame camera with 10 lenses or an old 4x5 camera. I am old, out of shape, and don't want to suffer. So I will bring my little Olympus Pen E-PL7 or maybe even one of the tiny 20MP shirt pocket cameras. If I am going to take a portrait, then a high resolution full frame camera is in order (or perhaps a 4x5). I might want to put some fun film in a Canon EOS 1N HS like lomo purple, infra red, or Adox CMS II high resolution b&w. These kinds of things require a particular camera. So there is nothing like a fully stocked tool box. Just don't try to lug the whole thing up a mountain trail. I have one advice for someone who wants to buy a camera and is not sure. Rent it for a weekend first and give it a full tryout. A lot cheaper than buying the whole lot and then finding out it does not do what you want to do.
Thanks so much. You seem to work with quite a variety of cameras.
Do you like the X100V?
Yes I do.
Hi Matti, hard to disagree with your points. However, between the lines the only way a complete newbie can follow your advice is to go to a physical camera store and try things out physically. You said about choosing lenses also but it is a bit like a chicken and the egg and which is first. If I have no idea get a nifty fifty and then see which direction you might go. Also one can only hope that the salesperson is reasonably knowledegeable and doesn't try to push a particular brand or camera on a newbie customer.
Thanks for your opinion.
The most important thing to set camera system is your experience.
Spend a lot of money and time,
And experience Pros and Cons.
Then you will be able to fix your system.
There is no other way if you are not a person who can be satisfied with any camera system.
Trust me.
Thanks for those excellent points.
Panasonic 9mm f1.7 or Olympus 8-25mm?
If you want a zoom then the Olympus, if not, then the Panasonic.
"PLEASE CHECK THE STATUS OF A LENS"......not a so uncommon error problem for some M-Zuiko lenses. Do your due diligence and research if buying used. Been there twice. Be safe
I have no idea what error that might be, but thanks anyway.
Great vide…
Thanks!
AOWS is in Lofoten now. He only uses second generation cameras and third party lenses.
Who is AOWS?
@@mattisulanto He's one of Spain's best B&W photographers, and has 48K followers in IG. Still his philosophy is to only use second generation cameras and third party lenses. And now he makes the best B&W images from Lofoten, Norway!
@@bioliv1 Thanks. Found him on Instagram.
why not a used PENTAX , what is the problem . more options for low price , top image quality .
Why not indeed? I don't know why not.
Reasonable choice!
Very good tip to get camera/lenses secondhand / used condition. I only get it on this way meanwhile.
And yes:
sympathy is t h e most advice!
Thanks!
Proud to be the first viewer of this video!!
Thanks, but did you really watch it so fast?😀
👍📸🙏
Its the same as comparing 4cyl vehicles with V8 vehicles.
Which is better?
If you are a professional driver who wants to appear professional, would you use a 4cyl car?
Different camps would hv their own stories, excuses and justifications.
In the end, its ALL about PRICE/MONEY.
Hypothetically, if the Sony A7RIV and its lenses are all priced the same as a Lumix G9 and all M4/3 lenses, millions would run out to buy the Sony full frame camera and lenses…..and then praise full frame sensors on American social media
Just find your channel and replied on another clip ... prenumererar now...kan du svenska?
Jag kan inte mycket svenska, tyvärr😀 Thanks for the subs😀
A nugatory video of waffle.
Big cameras are for fools.
Neither. Get the iPhone 14 Pro.
I don't use