Tricks for removing stubborn or broken bolts | Hagerty DIY
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- Опубликовано: 8 май 2018
- Losing your mind because the only thing holding up your project is a seized bolt? Davin Reckow is here to show you the tools and techniques you’ll need to get those frustrating bolts out of the way. Whether you’re a practiced wrench in the garage or a newcomer, it’s always good to know how to get over those project roadblocks.
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Good job! In my experience - first, spend 20 minutes looking for your vice-grips - then - bang your knee on the corner of the table. As you're on the ground rubbing your knee have wife/girlfriend come in to ask if you're going to mow the lawn or not because it's about to rain for 20 days and nights. Find vice-grips in a box under the table labeled "not vice-grips". FINALLY, grab your torch that has just enough gas to heat it up halfway and break off the ear of the casting - go purchase a new casting that costs $1200.
Dude, I really hope that was a creative writing exorcise and not based on a real life experience 😕
@@garrettwight1027 It was an exaggerated reality I think we can all agree with, at least parts of.
@@garrettwight1027 that is life.
Wow am not the only one 🤔
Or the wife interrupts with cheese toasties and finger foods
I was glad to hear you clean the threads out of the hole with a tap.
As a Michigan tool and diemaker (Grand Rapids)
I run into this all the time. You did a great job teaching this. As a seasoned T&D I know a good Technical Trainer when I hear them and you sir are one of them.
Pay Attention to this man people.
Thanks for showing those methods Dave. I especially like the nut welded on.
Another bit of useful tech from Davin! I'm a big fan of fixing with fire.
Doing it ALL wrong.
You swear and scream at it till it removes itself!
LOL
Doesn't quite work like people. You might have to roundhouse it.
You forgot step one! 1. Carry item to main street on Saturday afternoon then commence with your method (i.e. - step 2).
Don't forget to go to the liquer store and pickup some beer before you start.
Gee, I thought that cursing would do it?
I'm addicted to your vids! Awesome job :)
He's 2 for 2 in 5 minutes and I'm like 2 for 50 lifetime.
That’s better than me , I’m about 2 for 150. Lol
@@Chevy-hw6lw It's normal. His were easily accessible and you have a much better chance when the bolt is in aluminum cuz it expands more than steel and loosens itself. =)
@@Chevy-hw6lw me too lol
Wow! Thks so much for the tip. It's more than informative it's a lesson for the less technically inclined
Outstanding!...Thank you very much.
Thank you for sharing your knowledge....even though looks quite easy, I have come across broken and rusted bolts a no of times..... Thanks for sharing.
Very useful video. Keep up the good work. Thanks
Haven’t been to many welding shops that were more than happy to help me with anything ha. Better off finding a friend to help out
Kelly Full An automotive machine shop is the more likely choice to recommend. Welding shops aren't typically going to be skilled in this kind of procedure.
100 + per shop hour charge they should be very happy.
@@magicone9327 Welding shop guys who know their trade are expensive. They are happy as long as you meet their fees, ha.
great video davin they keep getting better and better man cheers
Thank you, it's very helpful for me. Hope you can make more videos like this. I'm a vietnamese mechanic
Outstanding job
All good and thank you !! One additional "tip" that needs to be included on this subject is to suggest the use of "Anti-Seize" when using studs or bolts in aluminum.
I use "Copper" anti seize because regular Anti Seize IS Aluminum, and you want dis similar metals..
I use service removable loctite it stops the oxidation
I use that stuff on everything.
PTFE plumbers tape works well as anti stick.
respect for this video! guys working with their hands and heads are worth of highest respect
DAMN!!! THE WELDING IDEA IS JUST JENIOUS ! Well done sir!
Excellent tips, thanks for sharing!
Usefull video .... Thanks
Good, short, quick, effective. Thanks.
Understood and saved for future reference! Thanks!
Awesome information. Thank you.
So satisfying to watch 🔥
Thanks for this short and useful clip!
I had a seized exhaust flange stud and a guy heated it up with an oxy-acytelene torch and used a pipe wrench to back it out. The pipe wrench to me worked a little better than vise grips because it grips harder as pressure is applied.
I did these two exactly procedure when I was doing my 1967 Firebird and installing the 455 in it the timing cover had two stuck bolts and one was broken short
Thanks for this guys, got a snapped bolt on the cylinder of my bike holding the that holds the exhausts on, got to give this a go!
Excellent thanks
Hey thank you for posting/sharing, thats a great idea, with the nut.
Super idea. Thanks
Great demo. Thanks
Thank you much Davin I'm a big fan of you budd and I follow your amazing videos with your amazing work always... keep up the great contents my friend
This was helpful, thank you
I love this. Do more!
This is the best thing I've seen all week! Thanks.
Mechanical porn
Knew these 2 methods from my old man.....just used welding 1 day ago to remove a broken bolt from aluminum mount....good video !
Great video!
Nice and informative video. Thanx for sharing
Awesome video I loved well done and well explained ❗✌❗
Good job. Good luck. Thanks for your video lessons
Big thanks!
Great job!
Enjoyed that thank you
Pretty nice. Thank you
Thank you , My l98 intake is off and both t stat bolts are broken , great video .
Great way to approach that stuck screw by welding the nut. That gives me an idea to do the same in removing a seized chrome dust cap from a crankset on a road bike.
Awesome! Thanks
very good tips!
This is awesome ! Good Job . I have an i dea... Thanks a lot.
Great stuff thanks .
Thanks for the very useful tips
If you use a gas welding method to heat the part but also want to cut metal parts while you rented the equipment....be careful for the flashbacks and backfires.
When the part starts to spark you should have some type of smock of body cover because a piece of that molten metal can land on you. Or......one just might go into the Noozle hole and put the flame out which is dangerous as a Backfire because the fire in now inside the torch handle and can melt that brass or travel up the hose to the tank of acetilene .
You might hear a Pop where the flames goes out....but if you hear a high pitch whistle you need to turn off the gas first so the oxygen blows it out .
If the tip of the Noozle doesn't have a nice cone shaped flame inside the regular flame , the copper Noozle can be removed and file flush while there is another internal file that is like a paper clip size rod to clean the hole for a perfect opening .
Thanks for the video
Well done .
Thank you sir.
Thank you
I wish i saw your channel early. Thanks for the video
verry good info. that's one way of doing it.
Very helpful.
Good job
Excellent
I'll add a couple things that have worked for me.
Use a nut about 2 sizes bigger than the bolt or stud, it allows the weld to travel all way down the remaining threads and is less likely to break the nut off.
2nd tip for steel in steel, weld it, let it sit a minute, hit the bolt only with a shot of penetrating oil, then try a wrench on it. By spraying the hot bolt/nut it is cooled quickly and almost breaks the seized threads away from the tapped hole.
This is amazing
I use to have a little slim 4" pipe wrench. Worked really well on brake bleeding with some liquid wrench
These are really life hacks. Cheers.
Very cool video to remove studs using a torch and Mig welder.
For the broken stud I use a couple of drill bits to drill out the center of the stud and gradually enlarging the bit size, then used the vise grip to remove stud or an easy out tool.
Awesome and those look like Pontiac timing covers I’m working on a Trans Am has one like it.
awesome idea bro.
Nice. Thanks
Thanks master!
now the oxy-acetylene one gives me hope. I spent a day with same trained on exhaust-studs of my Yamaha XJR1300 and they wouldn't budge. I think what I did wrong was heat the stud instead of the alloy. was worried about melting it. can believe how little heat you put on that one to loosen things up
PERFECT !!!
Nice, thanks.
Nice👍🏼I used this when I built my gokart on my channel
I still have nightmares from removing a whole exhaust and set of exh studs from a 911 Porsche that had been on salted roads for 10 years. The nuts were rounded off from rust and most of the studs were so rusty they had no thread left on them except where the nuts were. This combined with car being on the lift made it an interesting job to say the least.
Easy peasy with the right tools and a little knowhow.
thanks!
Wow game changer🤯👍🏽
good info
Welding the nut is a great idea! Thanks!
Wow thanks man
I like this and will definitely try it when I buy a oxy, acetylene rig next week. Never could get mapp hot enough without killing the part before. Couldn't even finish the procedure at hand before causing some issue with the part.. I've been using Kano Kroil or aero Kroil. It really is a great product to try for frozen parts. I stopped using PB blaster altogether, and other off the shelf catalyst removers as they don't work near as fast and effective. Unfortunately It will literally damage the metal over time so get it off quick when you use it! Thanks for great post, love this video!!
I have a Snap-on extracting kit part number is BEX13A and it amazing all you need is this and 3/8 ratchet
I like it! so many good videos!! I wanna work in hagerty))))but that's just a dream, that never happens...
Well that was pretty cool
Yup, excellent
2 MORE PONTIAC Parts Saved ! Thanks for a great Video!!
You're a Sensei!!!
Great video sir
Very nice
Welding the nut to the stuff remnant is brilliant! I've welded bolts on, with mixed results, so that i had a good hex to grab. Why didn't i think of a nut?! Thank you for sharing this.
Nice job! Next video maybe removing rusty control arm bushings? ;)
Terrific awesome 👍
thanks ..... good
Good to know, been in these spots before
Good video I knew about the heat but I did not think about welding a nut
Why was that just so satisfying ?
Very good......
I was taught way way back to use a rich acetylene flame, and soot up the area where your going to heat. When the part is heated the soot will stay in place. When the soot disappears (burns off) the part is heated to just below the melting point of the aluminum.
Good Tricks