You could have avoided the zip-ties and just use Velcro strips, that's what I did. I also started out using AAA batteries like you did but switched to the original type batteries, in a tiny battery holder, so they are easier to change and much lighter weight.
The reason for your problem with heating is that you had the batteries wired in series which created 6V instead of parallel in 3V but stronger amperage. Without looking at the initial installation of the original batteries, the opposite might have happened which created higher amperage at the 3V. Also, using 2 different types of batteries can also cause resistance.
I initially had the polarity wrong while testing as seen at 9:40 . Filming while one works can be very distracting. When I corrected the polarity, all worked as it should. I intentionally left my mistake in the video as a learning lesson, and to show others that in the real world, sometimes mistakes happen. Thanks for watching!
quick tip for your soldering iron, its better to leave a big glop of solder on the tip when you store it. 1) It protects the tip from oxidizing 2) Simply wipe it on a damp sponge when you get it hot enough for your next project.
Another mistake that can be made, is the front face shield. I don't remember if I put it in or it was installed at the factory. But the helmet would not function correctly, and I could not see my work while welding. Long story short, there is a protective film that must be removed off the shields. Works fine now. Even the guy at Harbor Freight was having the same problem. We both thought they were defective hoods.
Faces of the batteries (side your looking at) is the positive- both batteries tab was spot welded on the + symbol. Actually your initial test on bat 2 you connected meter leads backwards, meter showed reverse polarity but you didn't catch. I assume when you connected the AAA is when the polarity of cell swapped. Interesting because that, polarity flip, was easy to do on NI-CADS- Just changed the battery on my H/F helmet-identical auto assembly. Oddly same battery took a dump. Gathering parts to make external for easier replacement. Thanks
Your welcome. Good eye, I noticed that as well while I was editing the video. I left it in because I film close to real-time, also I get distracted while filming and repairing at the same time. I'm trying to improve that. Thanks for watching.
You should not connect different batteries in parallel. If you do, the battery with the highest voltage will discharge into the other one, until they end up with equal voltages. ... This current may damage one or both of the batteries.
Hi sir what if fixing the welding lens, if it doesn't work normally, from light to dark (not autodarkening) I first thought of batteries or modules, but I tried to swap or replace modules, the results didn't work, but on the old lens (cracked glass) still works I suspect there is a defect in the lens glass (the lens I just bought)
Maybe should try lithium batteries and Lithium battery holders since it is lightweight. Same size as the one installed earlier. Duracell maybe rechargeable but would add weight on the head. Still depends on the availability of parts though.
Need to watch it with these helmets if it has 2450 battery the cheaper ones are single use ,more expensive lithium are designed to be charged from the solar panel .A mistake I made
If the batteries are in parallel, you can just run 2 wires out, instead of 4, 1 battery pack instead of 2. I would have used a smaller gauge, silicone wire as well. I plan to do this to my helmet. Great idea.
Are you stoned as hell or what? By the way. The Solar panel charges the batteries. It has nothing to do with the auto darkening. The sensors (the little holes next to solar panel. Could be 2 to 4 of them) they are what tell it to auto darken or not. When they catch the right light wave length. They will activate.
"The Solar panel charges the batteries" Incorrect. Those are NON RECHARGABLE Button Cells, on this model their only purpose is for ready auto darkening response, to which the photo cell then takes over.
@@maineiacnorth1243 Just wanted to make it clear for others. As @MaineiacNorth said,, the lithium button cells are NOT rechargeable. Attempting to do so could cause injury or burns. Maybe could even cause a fire if your luck is as good as mine. Solar panel is the main powet source. Li cells provide initial darkening and work in situations such as grinding, where the sparks won't be bright enough to keep the lcd darkened. There will be some small 1/4" diameter or less sensors on the face of the module. Those are the ones that tell it when it needs to shield your eyes. Ingenious setup really, with the arc from welding providing the power to block the light from same arc. On a side note: I wonder if these can be replaced with a single 3v DC source. I have this helmet and will trace the board to see if I get a chance to open mine.
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Thank you from Alberta. Got the same Chinese helmet. Thanks for taking the time and effort for showing us how to fix these things.
You're welcome, thanks for watching!
Very interesting video as seen from up here where the roads literally end. Nice job, thanks.
I will do the same on mine. Thanks for the video, and show the mistakes as well. In real world they really happen. God bless ya!
Indeed they do. You're welcome..Thanks for watching!
You could have avoided the zip-ties and just use Velcro strips, that's what I did. I also started out using AAA batteries like you did but switched to the original type batteries, in a tiny battery holder, so they are easier to change and much lighter weight.
The reason for your problem with heating is that you had the batteries wired in series which created 6V instead of parallel in 3V but stronger amperage. Without looking at the initial installation of the original batteries, the opposite might have happened which created higher amperage at the 3V.
Also, using 2 different types of batteries can also cause resistance.
I initially had the polarity wrong while testing as seen at 9:40 . Filming while one works can be very distracting. When I corrected the polarity, all worked as it should. I intentionally left my mistake in the video as a learning lesson, and to show others that in the real world, sometimes mistakes happen. Thanks for watching!
quick tip for your soldering iron, its better to leave a big glop of solder on the tip when you store it.
1) It protects the tip from oxidizing
2) Simply wipe it on a damp sponge when you get it hot enough for your next project.
That's not necessary. You only need a clean tip that has been lightly tinned for storage. At 31:20 I explain this.
Thanks, got mine working again!
You're welcome!
Nice! Going to do that!
Another mistake that can be made, is the front face shield. I don't remember if I put it in or it was installed at the factory. But the helmet would not function correctly, and I could not see my work while welding. Long story short, there is a protective film that must be removed off the shields. Works fine now. Even the guy at Harbor Freight was having the same problem. We both thought they were defective hoods.
I would think a single strong 3 volt source would be enough to power the helmet. Maybe the 2nd battery pack is unnecessary.
My Miller helmet only came with one 3V rechargeable battery.
Faces of the batteries (side your looking at) is the positive- both batteries tab was spot welded on the + symbol. Actually your initial test on bat 2 you connected meter leads backwards, meter showed reverse polarity but you didn't catch. I assume when you connected the AAA is when the polarity of cell swapped. Interesting because that, polarity flip, was easy to do on NI-CADS-
Just changed the battery on my H/F helmet-identical auto assembly. Oddly same battery took a dump.
Gathering parts to make external for easier replacement. Thanks
Your welcome. Good eye, I noticed that as well while I was editing the video. I left it in because I film close to real-time, also I get distracted while filming and repairing at the same time. I'm trying to improve that. Thanks for watching.
Lucky you didn't fry it. If you wanna try charging the tab cell with another pack, remove it from the circuit first. good stuff haha
You should not connect different batteries in parallel. If you do, the battery with the highest voltage will discharge into the other one, until they end up with equal voltages. ... This current may damage one or both of the batteries.
nice one thanx for sharing
You're welcome.
Hi sir
what if fixing the welding lens, if it doesn't work normally,
from light to dark (not autodarkening)
I first thought of batteries or modules,
but I tried to swap or replace modules, the results didn't work,
but on the old lens (cracked glass) still works
I suspect there is a defect in the lens glass (the lens I just bought)
Could be light sensors are bad. Or if you bought a new u it. Make sure it has battties in it. And they HAVE TO BE 3VOLT LITHIUM.
Maybe should try lithium batteries and Lithium battery holders since it is lightweight. Same size as the one installed earlier. Duracell maybe rechargeable but would add weight on the head. Still depends on the availability of parts though.
The intention was to use AAA batteries because they are commonly available. I find no noticeable difference in weight to this setup.
Need to watch it with these helmets if it has 2450 battery the cheaper ones are single use ,more expensive lithium are designed to be charged from the solar panel .A mistake I made
Just out of curiosity could you just fit s passive lens where the auto unit was?
It's possible. You may have to make some modifications to make it work.
some batteries when die reverse voltage
you have to remove both batteries , because are solder in parallel
If the batteries are in parallel, you can just run 2 wires out, instead of 4, 1 battery pack instead of 2. I would have used a smaller gauge, silicone wire as well. I plan to do this to my helmet. Great idea.
I don't speak pcb. No clue what this guy's doing
Are you stoned as hell or what?
By the way. The Solar panel charges the batteries. It has nothing to do with the auto darkening. The sensors (the little holes next to solar panel. Could be 2 to 4 of them) they are what tell it to auto darken or not. When they catch the right light wave length. They will activate.
"The Solar panel charges the batteries" Incorrect. Those are NON RECHARGABLE Button Cells, on this model their only purpose is for ready auto darkening response, to which the photo cell then takes over.
@@maineiacnorth1243 Just wanted to make it clear for others. As @MaineiacNorth said,, the lithium button cells are NOT rechargeable. Attempting to do so could cause injury or burns. Maybe could even cause a fire if your luck is as good as mine. Solar panel is the main powet source. Li cells provide initial darkening and work in situations such as grinding, where the sparks won't be bright enough to keep the lcd darkened. There will be some small 1/4" diameter or less sensors on the face of the module. Those are the ones that tell it when it needs to shield your eyes. Ingenious setup really, with the arc from welding providing the power to block the light from same arc. On a side note: I wonder if these can be replaced with a single 3v DC source. I have this helmet and will trace the board to see if I get a chance to open mine.