The video may be 2 years old at the time I'm watching it, but it's still new to me. Thanks for giving so much helpful information to us New tractor owners. 👍👍
Tim I'm sure you already know this but for anyone who doesn't, wrap a piece of paper around whatever you want to cut and line the edges of the paper where they overlap. This ensures a straight line around the object to be cut. I was a pipefitter and now I'm on the internet which means I know everything regardless of being right or wrong ! :)
Great video Tim. I would caution you on your method of measuring the length to cut. It worked for you, because your shaft was horizontal going into your implement. If the shaft sloped down going into your implement and you measured and cut your shaft, it would be too long when you raised up your 3 point hitch, potentially causing some damage. In addition, depending on the attachment, adjusting the angle of the quick hitch by changing the length of the top link could also shorten the PTO shaft and cause a problem. You do mention to test the length by raising and lowering the 3 point hitch to check the length, but it is better to check that before you cut. Because of these issues, I always leave more than one inch gap, test raising and lowering the 3 point hitch to see how much the shaft length would change, and ensure that I also test adjusting the top link. One other thing to test when cutting the PTO shaft is that after cutting, you still have the minimum overlap of the two shaft parts that is required throughout that range of motion and adjustments. Minimum overlap depends on what the manufacturer of the PTO shaft says it should be.
When I purchase an implement with a PTO shaft, I will now know the correct way to measure & cut the shaft. Thanks Tim for the awesome info. Keep up the good work
Great video Tim. I used a Diablo extreme metal reciprocating saw blade. Cut like a hot knife through butter. No chatter, no sparks and no turning the shaft. Cut in 10 seconds or less.
Tim, thanks. I bought my tiller 21 years ago to go on the back of my Kubota B1700. When I sold the tractor and upgraded to a BX the lift arm to PTO output length was shorter. The shaft is about 1/4 inch too long to install after 3 point hookup. So, for 15 years I’ve struggled with installation… Additionally, I tighten my top link to get more ground clearance when loading it on my trailer. If I forget to lengthen it before I till, the shaft actually bottoms out. By luck, I haven’t damaged the PTO unit or drive yet! You’ve inspired me to “do it right” and shorten the PTO. It’ll be one less thing to worry about, easier to connect and a disaster averted! Again, thanks.
Tim, outstandingly good video and instruction. I learned a lot of useful information. I appreciate also your reading of the Proverbs. The bloopers are priceless too.
Now that's a beaut I can remember my Grandpa going to auctions and buying ole Army truck's for his logging/forestry business I got the task of driving most of them home good times. God bless y'all from South Carolina viewer.
Sorry Tim that comment was for another RUclips channel for some odd reason y'all got it instead my apologies and merry Christmas to you and your wife and family God bless y'all from South Carolina viewer
Great video Tim. I would have only cut 2.5" off the inside shaft. But after watching this video and listen to you explain why you need to cut both shafts I now understand cutting only one shaft would be wrong. The light bulb clicked on. Thanks for taking the time to go over the proper way to cut a PTO shaft and why.
My light bulb never clicked! lol It makes sense cutting both sides for sure, but in my mind say you needed to cut 2" total. To me that's 1" off each side. I watched someone before this video and that's what they did. I saw Tim and thought he's a pretty thorough guy, so I watched and now I am confused. He also didn't mention anything about when the 3 point is at full height.
Ha! Well, since they overlap, if you want to shorten by 2”, you have to shorten both ends by 2”. It took me awhile to grasp this as well. You can experiment visually with it…you will get it when you see them sliding together.
@John sorry I missed this comment. I tried to explain it…but you may have to visualize it for yourself. I assure you that my statement is correct. To shorten the shaft 2”, you’ll need to trim 2” off each side…remember, they are overlapping. As for 3 pt at full height. I think (but not sure) that I said you should measure at height where distance is the least. Usually this is ‘down’, but I suppose it would not need to be.
Good timing. I will soon be cutting my first PTO shaft. I leant my bush hog to my nephew and......he broke the PTO shaft. He did replace it, but it fit his tractor, which is bigger than mine, so I will need to cut it down. I wasn't quite sure how to go about it so I appreciate the video.
Well done, Tim! A step-by-step instruction, reasoning and execution always ends with the "best functional and safe solution". Having cut many PTO shafts in my near 74 years, I enjoy a detailed explanation. Great job, my friend! Muchas "goodoo"! (A Little Tex-Mex for ya!)
Nicely done. I removed the plastic sleeves by pressing in the white tabs. I then sawed the plastic separately. This allowed me to get the shafts in the vice securely. Then you can cut the shafts with whatever cutting device you may have. It is a good idea to protect the surface of the male shaft to prevent interference with the female. Also a good idea to make sure the shafts do not “bottom out” at the furthest reaches of your lift.
I agree. Two different shaft suppliers that I used advised their best practice was to separate the halves and separate the plastic casing from the steel shafts before cutting anything.
When I bought my tiller, I did some measuring. Then I went and bought a quick hitch. I still had to cut more of the shaft than I wanted, but that extra 4.5" made it doable. Now, I'm enjoying the benefits of the quick hitch.
Good morning Tim from North Dakota! Good Video. I would maybe include a comment on if a person uses a quick connect PTO. Often everyone forgets when they pick one of those up.
Fortunately for me, I’ve never had to cut one, or had a problem. But after your episode with the catastrophic damage to the PTO on the tractor, it made a lasting impression of the consequences of not measuring. Valuable info. Blessings.
Hey Tim. Great video, the pto is compressed the most when it's level so as you go up or down it should extend out. That being said for a attachment like a rotary cutter it would be important to cut the shaft more then just a half inch past the tractor shaft because you need to take into account that when you go through a swale the angles change the pto could compress even further. Cutting the shaft on a rotary cutter isn't as fussy because it's such a long shaft you still have tons of overlap.
It is refreshing to learn new things without having to listen to profanity and crudeness. I love that you add scripture to your videos. You have an amazing RUclips ministry.
Nice video I like the way you explain the process. Just watched the video from 3years. It was very good. Have to fit for a new 4ft brush hog. Thanks again for video.
Thanks Tim for making this detailed video Its extremely helpful! Oddly enough, I just purchased a Frontier RT3049 tiller for my 2025R and the dealer said I should see it an a few days. I have been nervous about cutting the shaft correctly. I'm much more comfortable after watching this video. I have the I match quick hitch also. Now to remove the backhoe for the first time....
Awesome job explaining how to properly cut the shafts , truth is I never had to cut any yet. I'm not going to lie I thought off the top of my head I only need to do the one end lol. Learned something new today and I appreciate you taking the time to teach us all! God Bless you both
Great video!!! Thank you, I just bought a used brush hog and I’m having to cut down my PTO shaft. It’s been years since I had to cut one down and needed the reminder. You guys rock.
Tim as someone who uses a grinder for a living and don't want you to get hurt, always have the sparks going twords you, because if it pinches (caught in the metal) it will go twords you ( possible cut or worse). If the sparks are going to you and catches it will go away from you so no injury. Stay safe and have a great Christmas
Improved great tips. The only suggestion I can make is that after you cut and file the (metal) shafts, stand it up and tap it on the table to knock out the metal filings that might come back to haunt you later. Keep up the great work. I learn so much from your channel.
I took the plastic off mine before cutting. Just a couple clips to remove. Made it a lot easier. Also used a metal blade in a "Sawz-All" which made short work of it.
Ok, well, I disagree with ‘easier due to removing plastic’, and I disagree that sawzall is easier. I used sawzall in the earlier episode. …the approach shown in this episode is much easier for me.
Bought a new brush hog today and are preparing for the process & procedure for checking & cutting my PTO shaft mating lenghts. Have done it several times before but always enjoy a "refresher course" as reinforcement for doing it right. Great job, Tim. Always appreciate your clear and concise "how-to" instructions. I would add one small item....make certain your PTO shaft mating surfaces are fully greased so that "slip & slide" works when it is suppose to!
When I first got my B2410 I bought a tiller and finish mower, I set them both up without a QA. Later on I got a QA and the FM PTO was usable, but the tiller was too short. Instead of replacing the PTO with a new one and cutting it to fit, I found a PTO adapter with same inside 1 3/8" 6 spline with the same outside spline. So if you plan to add a QA and get new attachments first, wait until you get the Quick Attach mounted before cutting the shaft.
Tim you can take the outer plastic sleeve off quite easily. The red tab unlocks the white plastic ring from the outer plastic shield allowing it to slide off of the metal shaft.
Tim I would have said extended and retracted. What a interesting language we have we said the exact same thing too totally different ways. And I'm sure there's several other ways it could be said too!
i do not have any PTO powered equipment but your instructions make sense to me. It would complicate things but I think that safety tube is easily removed. If it is steel shaft could be held more securely in the vise. Rotating that steel shaft while cutting looked good.
The only thing different I would do is cut the implement end first, if there is a changes it will be the inside part of the shift, not the outside... (you came out with the same results). Have a great day...
Nice hose clamp collection and stand you have there. I’ve always worried and measured for maximum pto shaft length with the implement in the shortest position. It’s not easy, so I like your way, thanks for the demo.
Thanks for the video. Your father must have known my dad. Whenever he cut something 3 times it was still too short. When I cut my PTO shaft I took the cover off the shaft and cut them separately. Keeping them together and cutting is a much simpler process. I also love my Masterforce grinder. One safety hint, when using power tools tuck your hoodie strings inside so they don't accidentally get caught in the tool. Oh I almost forgot. I just got my Ken's extended top hook for my imatch. Keep up the great videos and have a joyous Christmas from Minnesota.
Hi Tim, Great video as always. One thing I do, is to use standard engine oil on the PTO shaft connection versus grease. It makes the connections easier, especially in cold weather.
Hi Tim, one important thing when measuring is to check the shaft at ALL positions - lowered, horizontal, and fully raised. Not all tractors maintain an even arc, and you want your cut to suit the shortest distance through that arc. There'll still be plenty of overlap then for the longest distance.
This is a great, easy to understand video on how this is done! So far we've only had to cut ouor wood chipper pto, since it was too long for oour New Holland. I'm not sure how Erik measured it, but I think he had to cut it twice if I remember right! It's always a a scary idea since new PTO's are so dang expensive! But this approach takes much of the fear factor out :)
Thanks Tim. If you'd let me add one thing, that would be to do the raise and lower measurements before you cut the shaft. Believe it or not I've had a JD implement that the shortest PTO position was the raised position and not the lowered position.
That's true on my Kubota with my Stump Grinder. I'm going to measure with the implement fully raised and make sure it doesn't bottom out. Then insure that there just enough clearance to the PTO to be able to install it when the implement is on the ground. Whichever of those two is shorter. I want to maximize the overlap, because it lengthens as it lowers into the ground, and it can rotate if I go too fast, which can further extend the PTO shaft.
Tim, you should do a video on everything that's wrong about the Pto Link system. It adds length, screws up dimensions for pull type implements and drawbar length, adds another joint in the rotating mass to cause more runout, moves the universal joint and shield away from the tractor shield, and on and on. I can't believe this dangerous contraption is actually on the market.
Hey Tim, great video. I have used a sawzall for my first time. Ok, but not as easy as a cut-off wheel on a grinder. To mark the line, I wrapped a piece of colored electrical tape around the shaft. Easy to follow the tape edge. Great videos.
Great episode. Guess only thing I'd do differently is using a paint marker vs a blade and soap stone. Sharpies are great in silver or gold and marks pretty much everything.
All makes sense. When I did mine, I did a lot of "nibble and test". That takes considerably longer, but I could neither move the tractor (8000+ lbs) or the implement (1000 lbs) easily. So, I hooked up the snowblower to the 3-point and attached the PTO to the blower. I played with the 3-point height to see where the shaft was most overlapped (being careful not to pinch anything) My first cut was purposely short. I had a bout 1/2" as I moved the PTO around the tractor's output before it would clear. I cut again just under 1/2" and while I was able to jam the connection on (and would have had no issues if I lowered the blower) I decided to take it apart again and just grind some more length off. This allowed an easy attachment in the shortest position. Since when you slide the PTO on, you automatically get some buffer, this looked good. Then I dropped the blower, marked the tube and pulled it apart again to see how much I still had overlap in the long position. With nearly 18" of metal overlap, I felt good. The only issue I have is that when the blower is down, the PTO angle is a bit steeper than I would like. I used it last season without any failure. It looked OK when I regreezed it a few weeks ago, but at 20+ degrees, I'm not happy with it. I'll run it again this season as other projects prevented replacing. Fingers crossed. I'm beginning my quest to find a solution with CV joints on each end. If anyone has a source that they can recommend I'd be very grateful. The PTO shaft in question is a T50.
Nicely done, course I had watched your previous video when I had to cut pto for my new tiller. It made sense to me and I got it cut just fine. Thanks again nice video. God Bless
Looks good . A very informative video. You could put the part that you are cutting off in the vise. That may cut back on the marring of the plastic guard.
I clamp the exposed end of the PTO shaft in the vice to cut the plastic cover first, that way you can rotate it while cutting. To cut the shaft, I clamp a piece of pipe in the vice and slide the shaft over it so it can be rotated while cutting it with the grinder. Using a piece of tape for a guide also helps to keep things square.
An easy way too make your cutting marks is to use painters tape.. you can use brake cleaner prior so the tape holds, but it will be a good guide and easy to see as you go to cut.
Im new to tractors and the implements I have thus far were cut by the dealer before everything was delivered. Ive been watching various videos about this. Im not contradicting you, but wanted to compare another video I watched and get your comments. In the other video, the guy has the entire shaft d/c from tractor and implement, hooks up the implement then measures from the indent on the tractor PTO and the indent on the implement, finds the difference between that distance and the shaft length when contracted and then takes off an additional 2" (the extra 2 is the space you show here to be able to hook up the shaft to the tractor). In this video you advise against detaching the PTO shaft. The other video seemed so quick and simple. Just wondering your thinking on this? I just want to make 100% sure Im doing it right the first time I do it on my own.
I like to trim my PTO's to a length such that I can unhook the shaft from the tractor at any position in the 3PH range of travel. I remove the guard sleeve and end bell from each half of the shaft. Cut the sleeve in my power miter saw for a perfectly square cut. Shafts get cut in the horizontal band saw. Deburr everything, wash in solvent, reassemble guards, apply fresh grease and let 'er rip.
Maybe I'm nitpicking but its commonly called Extended and Collapsed length. Also Tim, consider a Portable Bandsaw for your tool arsenal. They cut smooth and quickly with no grinder wheel dust. I got a cheap one from HF and it cuts just as good as a Milwaukee.
I have a tiller which I purchased about 5 years ago and never have tried cutting the shaft and never have used the tiller because of the deer problem we have here in Arkansas.
Nice vid. If you are like me, and hate nicking the paint? Wrap the shafts with blue painter's tape--- wrap on the side you are keeping, and cut just along the outer edge of the tape (you don't care about scarring the cut off piece). This works on both the plastic cover, and the metal shaft. Nice work-- I'd have used a Dremel tool instead of a file, but that's because I have no actual files... :)
Glad you did another video on this and you hit on some additional points that you did not previously. Regarding the PTO shaft length - Every particular tractor model is obviously going to likely have its own dimension from the end of the PTO shaft to the three point arm attachment point center. Likewise, every implement is going to have its own dimension from the PTO input shaft to the three point attachment point center. But variation of implement usage happens - either between tractor models or even between a single tractor's configuration at any given time. Given your experience with damage to the 2038R because of the PTO shaft being too long, other than trying to keep the PTO shaft as long as possible as you described in this video, is there a reason you do not base your PTO shaft length on the straight line distance between the tractor PTO output shaft and the implement when the implement is attached without a quick hitch? When I received my 2038R in mid-September this year, and as I got each of my various PTO driven equipment pieces (new and used), I made sure to attach the implement directly to the three point to establish the PTO shaft length. I did this because I wanted to ensure that the PTO shaft length was not too long regardless of how the implements may get attached to the tractor, with or without a quick hitch. Once I ensured that the PTO shafts would not be too long when directly connected to the three point arms I then verified that the PTO shafts would not be too short and have too little engagement between the inner and outer portions of the shaft. My approach to this issue was to protect the tractor at all costs in a "worst case configuration" consideration. You example in this video clearly would be a very short PTO shaft if this particular implement were directly connected to the three point without a quick hitch. In the event that an implement is used with multiple tractor models, or multiple configurations of a single tractor, it may in fact require having multiple PTO shafts for that implement to operate safely as well as to protect the tractor(s).
Just finished cutting the shaft, had to cut 4" off, but as this was the first time it took 2 cuts to get to the desired length. Thank you again for this very informative video. In my opinion that video deserves 👍👍👍👍
Tim, I use a small cut off saw to cut my PTO shafts. It allows you to clamp the shaft during cutting and a miter saw to cut the plastic case. The cut off saw is about $50.00 at harbor freight and has been worth the cost because of other projects.
I like your video. However, it is worth mentioning that there are scenarios in which you don’t want the driveshaft to be short enough to connect with the implement already attached to the three point. Case in point, I have an L6060. I have a newly acquired Bradco 612 chain trencher and the driveshaft needs to be quite short - about 17” from the center of the rear u joint to the tip of the PTO on the tractor. This would only leave about 5” of overlap if I were to follow your directions and cut the driveshaft short enough to be able to disconnect it while still attached to the three point. There would be so little overlap with the male and female tubes that it would not work. Hopefully this makes sense… I’m going to have to make sure the shaft is not too long to cause a bind, but not short enough to not have at least several inches of overlap.
I'm about to do this but a tip from cutting with a grinder, wrap the plastic tube with tape all around to cut evenly all around. Second part to the tip is funny stupid, but put the tape on the waste part of the tube so you don't have to take it off or mess with melted glue if it gets hot :D Thanks for the video.
Where's the best place to buy a PTO shaft? I'm looking for the exact shaft in this video (maybe a different length, but with the shear bolt on one end).
A word of safety!!!! No matter how tempting it is, NEVER use a cutting wheel for grinding. The cutting wheels are not made to handle the side forces needed for grinding and they will practically explode without warning. Get two cheap grinders from Harbor Freight; put a grinding disk on one and a cutting wheel on the other. Its cheaper than getting stitches in the Emergency Room. Ask me how I know.
@@garymeyer3294 If I'm really into what I am working on, I hate stopping to change a disc, therefor I have (3) grinders not counting my cordless. The corded ones aren't that expensive, especially on sale.
@@garymeyer3294 All is true. However, it takes longer to swap disks than to pick up another grinder. And if you are doing a lot of swapping back and forth it is a big time saver. Plus you can get a cheap Harbor Freight grinder for something like $20 each.
Might think of using a copper pipe that will slip over the shaft - so as you cut the plastic and see you nick the copper you know you are through. Can be sink drain or any scrap tubing. That is my food of thought for the day.
I worry about bottoming out pto shaft when 3pt brush hog is angled up when coming out of a ditch. Will that length be shorter than measuring when raising and lowering? Also I removed covers to cut them. Also if you cut crooked it can ruin the balance of shaft which makes machine vibrate.
The video may be 2 years old at the time I'm watching it, but it's still new to me. Thanks for giving so much helpful information to us New tractor owners. 👍👍
Thanks for watching!
Tim I'm sure you already know this but for anyone who doesn't, wrap a piece of paper around whatever you want to cut and line the edges of the paper where they overlap. This ensures a straight line around the object to be cut. I was a pipefitter and now I'm on the internet which means I know everything regardless of being right or wrong ! :)
Great video Tim. I would caution you on your method of measuring the length to cut. It worked for you, because your shaft was horizontal going into your implement. If the shaft sloped down going into your implement and you measured and cut your shaft, it would be too long when you raised up your 3 point hitch, potentially causing some damage. In addition, depending on the attachment, adjusting the angle of the quick hitch by changing the length of the top link could also shorten the PTO shaft and cause a problem. You do mention to test the length by raising and lowering the 3 point hitch to check the length, but it is better to check that before you cut. Because of these issues, I always leave more than one inch gap, test raising and lowering the 3 point hitch to see how much the shaft length would change, and ensure that I also test adjusting the top link. One other thing to test when cutting the PTO shaft is that after cutting, you still have the minimum overlap of the two shaft parts that is required throughout that range of motion and adjustments. Minimum overlap depends on what the manufacturer of the PTO shaft says it should be.
When I purchase an implement with a PTO shaft, I will now know the correct way to measure & cut the shaft. Thanks Tim for the awesome info. Keep up the good work
Great video Tim. I used a Diablo extreme metal reciprocating saw blade. Cut like a hot knife through butter. No chatter, no sparks and no turning the shaft. Cut in 10 seconds or less.
Tim, thanks.
I bought my tiller 21 years ago to go on the back of my Kubota B1700. When I sold the tractor and upgraded to a BX the lift arm to PTO output length was shorter. The shaft is about 1/4 inch too long to install after 3 point hookup.
So, for 15 years I’ve struggled with installation… Additionally, I tighten my top link to get more ground clearance when loading it on my trailer. If I forget to lengthen it before I till, the shaft actually bottoms out. By luck, I haven’t damaged the PTO unit or drive yet!
You’ve inspired me to “do it right” and shorten the PTO. It’ll be one less thing to worry about, easier to connect and a disaster averted!
Again, thanks.
Tim, outstandingly good video and instruction. I learned a lot of useful information. I appreciate also your reading of the Proverbs. The bloopers are priceless too.
“This time, I’m going to do it right” if I had a nickel for every time I’ve said that very thing!!! Great job Tim. 🙏
I just purchased a chipper and was worried about cutting the pto shaft, You saved the day😂 A real easy way to cut it. Thanks for all your videos
Now that's a beaut I can remember my Grandpa going to auctions and buying ole Army truck's for his logging/forestry business I got the task of driving most of them home good times. God bless y'all from South Carolina viewer.
Sorry Tim that comment was for another RUclips channel for some odd reason y'all got it instead my apologies and merry Christmas to you and your wife and family God bless y'all from South Carolina viewer
Great video Tim. I would have only cut 2.5" off the inside shaft. But after watching this video and listen to you explain why you need to cut both shafts I now understand cutting only one shaft would be wrong. The light bulb clicked on. Thanks for taking the time to go over the proper way to cut a PTO shaft and why.
My light bulb never clicked! lol It makes sense cutting both sides for sure, but in my mind say you needed to cut 2" total. To me that's 1" off each side. I watched someone before this video and that's what they did. I saw Tim and thought he's a pretty thorough guy, so I watched and now I am confused. He also didn't mention anything about when the 3 point is at full height.
@@johnpyle8027 i’m with you. why does he need to cut 2” on both sides if he only needs to remove 2”?
Ha! Well, since they overlap, if you want to shorten by 2”, you have to shorten both ends by 2”. It took me awhile to grasp this as well.
You can experiment visually with it…you will get it when you see them sliding together.
@@TractorTimewithTim yup i get it now! thank you.
@John sorry I missed this comment.
I tried to explain it…but you may have to visualize it for yourself. I assure you that my statement is correct. To shorten the shaft 2”, you’ll need to trim 2” off each side…remember, they are overlapping.
As for 3 pt at full height. I think (but not sure) that I said you should measure at height where distance is the least. Usually this is ‘down’, but I suppose it would not need to be.
Good timing. I will soon be cutting my first PTO shaft. I leant my bush hog to my nephew and......he broke the PTO shaft. He did replace it, but it fit his tractor, which is bigger than mine, so I will need to cut it down. I wasn't quite sure how to go about it so I appreciate the video.
Well done, Tim! A step-by-step instruction, reasoning and execution always ends with the "best functional and safe solution". Having cut many PTO shafts in my near 74 years, I enjoy a detailed explanation. Great job, my friend! Muchas "goodoo"! (A Little Tex-Mex for ya!)
I used a reciprocating saw and it worked great.
Very nicely explained simpler procedure. Hated having to struggle to remove and reinstall the plastic sleeve. Thanks!
Nicely done.
I removed the plastic sleeves by pressing in the white tabs.
I then sawed the plastic separately.
This allowed me to get the shafts in the vice securely.
Then you can cut the shafts with whatever cutting device you may have.
It is a good idea to protect the surface of the male shaft to prevent interference with the female.
Also a good idea to make sure the shafts do not “bottom out” at the furthest reaches of your lift.
I agree. Two different shaft suppliers that I used advised their best practice was to separate the halves and separate the plastic casing from the steel shafts before cutting anything.
When I bought my tiller, I did some measuring. Then I went and bought a quick hitch. I still had to cut more of the shaft than I wanted, but that extra 4.5" made it doable. Now, I'm enjoying the benefits of the quick hitch.
Good morning Tim from North Dakota! Good Video. I would maybe include a comment on if a person uses a quick connect PTO. Often everyone forgets when they pick one of those up.
Fortunately for me, I’ve never had to cut one, or had a problem. But after your episode with the catastrophic damage to the PTO on the tractor, it made a lasting impression of the consequences of not measuring. Valuable info. Blessings.
Hey Tim. Great video, the pto is compressed the most when it's level so as you go up or down it should extend out. That being said for a attachment like a rotary cutter it would be important to cut the shaft more then just a half inch past the tractor shaft because you need to take into account that when you go through a swale the angles change the pto could compress even further. Cutting the shaft on a rotary cutter isn't as fussy because it's such a long shaft you still have tons of overlap.
It is refreshing to learn new things without having to listen to profanity and crudeness. I love that you add scripture to your videos. You have an amazing RUclips ministry.
Nice video I like the way you explain the process. Just watched the video from 3years. It was very good. Have to fit for a new 4ft brush hog. Thanks again for video.
You are the best Tim. Thank you. Ive watched so many of your videos that youre beginning to feel like family!😀
Real good video. Saving time, equipment, and sometimes life or limb. Thank you for illustrating "by doing" all these things.
Thanks Tim for making this detailed video Its extremely helpful! Oddly enough, I just purchased a Frontier RT3049 tiller for my 2025R and the dealer said I should see it an a few days. I have been nervous about cutting the shaft correctly. I'm much more comfortable after watching this video. I have the I match quick hitch also. Now to remove the backhoe for the first time....
Congrats on the new tiller. 3049 is incredible. The backhoe is easy. don't worry about it!
Awesome job explaining how to properly cut the shafts , truth is I never had to cut any yet. I'm not going to lie I thought off the top of my head I only need to do the one end lol. Learned something new today and I appreciate you taking the time to teach us all! God Bless you both
Great video!!! Thank you, I just bought a used brush hog and I’m having to cut down my PTO shaft. It’s been years since I had to cut one down and needed the reminder. You guys rock.
Tim as someone who uses a grinder for a living and don't want you to get hurt, always have the sparks going twords you, because if it pinches (caught in the metal) it will go twords you ( possible cut or worse). If the sparks are going to you and catches it will go away from you so no injury. Stay safe and have a great Christmas
Improved great tips. The only suggestion I can make is that after you cut and file the (metal) shafts, stand it up and tap it on the table to knock out the metal filings that might come back to haunt you later. Keep up the great work. I learn so much from your channel.
Wow , Mr. Tim that was the best explanation of that I've ever seen . I'm about to have to do that , so thank you very much
I took the plastic off mine before cutting. Just a couple clips to remove. Made it a lot easier. Also used a metal blade in a "Sawz-All" which made short work of it.
Ok, well, I disagree with ‘easier due to removing plastic’, and I disagree that sawzall is easier. I used sawzall in the earlier episode. …the approach shown in this episode is much easier for me.
May be so. Was my first one and I didn't have an angle grinder at the time. Fixed that problem though.
Bought a new brush hog today and are preparing for the process & procedure for checking & cutting my PTO shaft mating lenghts. Have done it several times before but always enjoy a "refresher course" as reinforcement for doing it right. Great job, Tim. Always appreciate your clear and concise "how-to" instructions. I would add one small item....make certain your PTO shaft mating surfaces are fully greased so that "slip & slide" works when it is suppose to!
Bandsaw works well for cutting driveshafts
Thanks! Great video! I like how you explain extra things. Like why the PTO shaft is not symmetrical to keep joints aligned properly.
I agree, this one was better (more detailed) than the one released on 12/4/18. When I saw the title, I thought you had covered this before.
Yes. I have always regretted that episode.
I KNEW I could do better! Ever been there?
@@TractorTimewithTim only on every video I have ever made so far. 😄
When I first got my B2410 I bought a tiller and finish mower, I set them both up without a QA. Later on I got a QA and the FM PTO was usable, but the tiller was too short. Instead of replacing the PTO with a new one and cutting it to fit, I found a PTO adapter with same inside 1 3/8" 6 spline with the same outside spline. So if you plan to add a QA and get new attachments first, wait until you get the Quick Attach mounted before cutting the shaft.
Tim you can take the outer plastic sleeve off quite easily. The red tab unlocks the white plastic ring from the outer plastic shield allowing it to slide off of the metal shaft.
But I have broken the tabs in the past, and I do not know where to get replacement shields. My approach is most conservative for me.
Tim I would have said extended and retracted. What a interesting language we have we said the exact same thing too totally different ways. And I'm sure there's several other ways it could be said too!
I should have used those terms. Oh well.
Fantastic job, nice and easy instructions,very detailed.
It looks very good. Just make sure that you don't forget to put the PTO shield on your tractor.
i do not have any PTO powered equipment but your instructions make sense to me. It would complicate things but I think that safety tube is easily removed. If it is steel shaft could be held more securely in the vise. Rotating that steel shaft while cutting looked good.
The only thing different I would do is cut the implement end first, if there is a changes it will be the inside part of the shift, not the outside... (you came out with the same results). Have a great day...
Nice hose clamp collection and stand you have there. I’ve always worried and measured for maximum pto shaft length with the implement in the shortest position. It’s not easy, so I like your way, thanks for the demo.
Thanks for the video. Your father must have known my dad. Whenever he cut something 3 times it was still too short. When I cut my PTO shaft I took the cover off the shaft and cut them separately. Keeping them together and cutting is a much simpler process. I also love my Masterforce grinder. One safety hint, when using power tools tuck your hoodie strings inside so they don't accidentally get caught in the tool. Oh I almost forgot. I just got my Ken's extended top hook for my imatch. Keep up the great videos and have a joyous Christmas from Minnesota.
Hi Tim,
Great video as always.
One thing I do, is to use standard engine oil on the PTO shaft connection versus grease. It makes the connections easier, especially in cold weather.
Hi Tim, one important thing when measuring is to check the shaft at ALL positions - lowered, horizontal, and fully raised. Not all tractors maintain an even arc, and you want your cut to suit the shortest distance through that arc. There'll still be plenty of overlap then for the longest distance.
Mines 1" shorter lifted
And what happens is if it fits down but barely when you lift it can brake the pto because it pushes it in so hard
@@loganmartin8613 cut to accommodate shortest distance
This is a great, easy to understand video on how this is done! So far we've only had to cut ouor wood chipper pto, since it was too long for oour New Holland. I'm not sure how Erik measured it, but I think he had to cut it twice if I remember right! It's always a a scary idea since new PTO's are so dang expensive! But this approach takes much of the fear factor out :)
Thanks Suzanne!
Thanks Suzanne!
Thanks Tim.
If you'd let me add one thing, that would be to do the raise and lower measurements before you cut the shaft. Believe it or not I've had a JD implement that the shortest PTO position was the raised position and not the lowered position.
That's true on my Kubota with my Stump Grinder. I'm going to measure with the implement fully raised and make sure it doesn't bottom out. Then insure that there just enough clearance to the PTO to be able to install it when the implement is on the ground. Whichever of those two is shorter. I want to maximize the overlap, because it lengthens as it lowers into the ground, and it can rotate if I go too fast, which can further extend the PTO shaft.
Thanks for this video! Cutting down my first pto shaft
Just used your instructions worked perfectly.
Glad to hear!
Dang learned something! Put the pto selector in mid to spin the rear shaft, been struggling with that
Ah good. Glad you saw that!
Tim, you should do a video on everything that's wrong about the Pto Link system. It adds length, screws up dimensions for pull type implements and drawbar length, adds another joint in the rotating mass to cause more runout, moves the universal joint and shield away from the tractor shield, and on and on. I can't believe this dangerous contraption is actually on the market.
Do you mean the pto quick Kinect? ruclips.net/video/7NuAQIpzBRo/видео.htmlsi=i6MebJW5e5HF6GCw
I just got a yanmar rs1200 tiller had do matanance on it 1 bearing on the tiller end shaft now its fixed ready to use
Great job, Tim! I appreciate the tip to disengage the rear PTO so it is easier to align the splines.
Good morning fron North Carolina.
Hey Tim, great video. I have used a sawzall for my first time. Ok, but not as easy as a cut-off wheel on a grinder. To mark the line, I wrapped a piece of colored electrical tape around the shaft. Easy to follow the tape edge. Great videos.
Explain how a Sawzall is harder to use for this than cutoff wheel on grinder. Go:
@@alteredaustin1 Personal preference. That is all.
Great episode. Guess only thing I'd do differently is using a paint marker vs a blade and soap stone. Sharpies are great in silver or gold and marks pretty much everything.
Ugh! You are right! I have both! Didn’t think that through very well.
You do a great job Tim. Thanks Larry
All makes sense. When I did mine, I did a lot of "nibble and test". That takes considerably longer, but I could neither move the tractor (8000+ lbs) or the implement (1000 lbs) easily.
So, I hooked up the snowblower to the 3-point and attached the PTO to the blower. I played with the 3-point height to see where the shaft was most overlapped (being careful not to pinch anything) My first cut was purposely short. I had a bout 1/2" as I moved the PTO around the tractor's output before it would clear. I cut again just under 1/2" and while I was able to jam the connection on (and would have had no issues if I lowered the blower) I decided to take it apart again and just grind some more length off. This allowed an easy attachment in the shortest position. Since when you slide the PTO on, you automatically get some buffer, this looked good.
Then I dropped the blower, marked the tube and pulled it apart again to see how much I still had overlap in the long position. With nearly 18" of metal overlap, I felt good.
The only issue I have is that when the blower is down, the PTO angle is a bit steeper than I would like. I used it last season without any failure. It looked OK when I regreezed it a few weeks ago, but at 20+ degrees, I'm not happy with it. I'll run it again this season as other projects prevented replacing. Fingers crossed.
I'm beginning my quest to find a solution with CV joints on each end. If anyone has a source that they can recommend I'd be very grateful. The PTO shaft in question is a T50.
Very good information Tim it will be very helpful have a day love from TEXAS
Nicely done, course I had watched your previous video when I had to cut pto for my new tiller. It made sense to me and I got it cut just fine. Thanks again nice video.
God Bless
Very helpful. And important.
Looks good . A very informative video. You could put the part that you are cutting off in the vise. That may cut back on the marring of the plastic guard.
I clamp the exposed end of the PTO shaft in the vice to cut the plastic cover first, that way you can rotate it while cutting. To cut the shaft, I clamp a piece of pipe in the vice and slide the shaft over it so it can be rotated while cutting it with the grinder. Using a piece of tape for a guide also helps to keep things square.
Thanks Tim, getting prepared for a tiller. I guess I should get a 3 point quick hitch...
Good job Tim well explained pretty easy to follow
Perfect timing. My flail mower showed up today.
Congratulations!
An easy way too make your cutting marks is to use painters tape.. you can use brake cleaner prior so the tape holds, but it will be a good guide and easy to see as you go to cut.
Im new to tractors and the implements I have thus far were cut by the dealer before everything was delivered. Ive been watching various videos about this. Im not contradicting you, but wanted to compare another video I watched and get your comments. In the other video, the guy has the entire shaft d/c from tractor and implement, hooks up the implement then measures from the indent on the tractor PTO and the indent on the implement, finds the difference between that distance and the shaft length when contracted and then takes off an additional 2" (the extra 2 is the space you show here to be able to hook up the shaft to the tractor). In this video you advise against detaching the PTO shaft. The other video seemed so quick and simple. Just wondering your thinking on this? I just want to make 100% sure Im doing it right the first time I do it on my own.
Depends on the shaft. Some are bolted some are keyed, and some are simple spline connect just like tractor side.
Any approach will work.
I like to trim my PTO's to a length such that I can unhook the shaft from the tractor at any position in the 3PH range of travel. I remove the guard sleeve and end bell from each half of the shaft. Cut the sleeve in my power miter saw for a perfectly square cut. Shafts get cut in the horizontal band saw. Deburr everything, wash in solvent, reassemble guards, apply fresh grease and let 'er rip.
Thank you for this video Tim. It was a good one, so was the verse at the end.
Great Video Tim. Am looking at getting a tiller and this video will definitely help.
Maybe I'm nitpicking but its commonly called Extended and Collapsed length.
Also Tim, consider a Portable Bandsaw for your tool arsenal. They cut smooth and quickly with no grinder wheel dust. I got a cheap one from HF and it cuts just as good as a Milwaukee.
Awesome video!!!!! I have never cut one of my shafts but feel I could do it now. Thanks!!!
Of course you could!
I have a tiller which I purchased about 5 years ago and never have tried cutting the shaft and never have used the tiller because of the deer problem we have here in Arkansas.
Use a hose clamp to mark your cut line and leave on when making cuts. This will ensure good even cuts!
Nice vid. If you are like me, and hate nicking the paint? Wrap the shafts with blue painter's tape--- wrap on the side you are keeping, and cut just along the outer edge of the tape (you don't care about scarring the cut off piece). This works on both the plastic cover, and the metal shaft. Nice work-- I'd have used a Dremel tool instead of a file, but that's because I have no actual files... :)
Glad you did another video on this and you hit on some additional points that you did not previously.
Regarding the PTO shaft length -
Every particular tractor model is obviously going to likely have its own dimension from the end of the PTO shaft to the three point arm attachment point center. Likewise, every implement is going to have its own dimension from the PTO input shaft to the three point attachment point center. But variation of implement usage happens - either between tractor models or even between a single tractor's configuration at any given time.
Given your experience with damage to the 2038R because of the PTO shaft being too long, other than trying to keep the PTO shaft as long as possible as you described in this video, is there a reason you do not base your PTO shaft length on the straight line distance between the tractor PTO output shaft and the implement when the implement is attached without a quick hitch?
When I received my 2038R in mid-September this year, and as I got each of my various PTO driven equipment pieces (new and used), I made sure to attach the implement directly to the three point to establish the PTO shaft length. I did this because I wanted to ensure that the PTO shaft length was not too long regardless of how the implements may get attached to the tractor, with or without a quick hitch. Once I ensured that the PTO shafts would not be too long when directly connected to the three point arms I then verified that the PTO shafts would not be too short and have too little engagement between the inner and outer portions of the shaft. My approach to this issue was to protect the tractor at all costs in a "worst case configuration" consideration.
You example in this video clearly would be a very short PTO shaft if this particular implement were directly connected to the three point without a quick hitch.
In the event that an implement is used with multiple tractor models, or multiple configurations of a single tractor, it may in fact require having multiple PTO shafts for that implement to operate safely as well as to protect the tractor(s).
Great job Tim. I’ll definitely use this way to measure next time!
Super informative, clear and concise...great video Tim. (Enjoy the outtakes as well.)
Very informative video, I even understood!....Well done,Tim!!
Thank you, needed to shorten a PTO shaft on a new tiller, thats about 2 1/2 inch to long. 👍👍
Just finished cutting the shaft, had to cut 4" off, but as this was the first time it took 2 cuts to get to the desired length. Thank you again for this very informative video. In my opinion that video deserves 👍👍👍👍
My dad would say “cut it off 3 times, still too short!”
Tim, I use a small cut off saw to cut my PTO shafts. It allows you to clamp the shaft during cutting and a miter saw to cut the plastic case. The cut off saw is about $50.00 at harbor freight and has been worth the cost because of other projects.
I’ve got one. Works great!
I like your video. However, it is worth mentioning that there are scenarios in which you don’t want the driveshaft to be short enough to connect with the implement already attached to the three point. Case in point, I have an L6060. I have a newly acquired Bradco 612 chain trencher and the driveshaft needs to be quite short - about 17” from the center of the rear u joint to the tip of the PTO on the tractor. This would only leave about 5” of overlap if I were to follow your directions and cut the driveshaft short enough to be able to disconnect it while still attached to the three point. There would be so little overlap with the male and female tubes that it would not work. Hopefully this makes sense… I’m going to have to make sure the shaft is not too long to cause a bind, but not short enough to not have at least several inches of overlap.
I'm about to do this but a tip from cutting with a grinder, wrap the plastic tube with tape all around to cut evenly all around. Second part to the tip is funny stupid, but put the tape on the waste part of the tube so you don't have to take it off or mess with melted glue if it gets hot :D
Thanks for the video.
Excellent guide thanks as always amazing quality videos. Have you tried using a band saw to cut the shaft ? Thanks 🙏
Good explanation Tim, thanks for sharing.
Nice.. Will do it sometime this week.
Very nice! Thank you for sharing this information!
Good clean cut on plastic cover if remove and cut on miter saw
Thank You sir. This video was everything I was looking for +2 unexpected little tips.
Where's the best place to buy a PTO shaft? I'm looking for the exact shaft in this video (maybe a different length, but with the shear bolt on one end).
I appreciate this video it was very helpful. Thank you for your time and effort.
A word of safety!!!! No matter how tempting it is, NEVER use a cutting wheel for grinding. The cutting wheels are not made to handle the side forces needed for grinding and they will practically explode without warning.
Get two cheap grinders from Harbor Freight; put a grinding disk on one and a cutting wheel on the other. Its cheaper than getting stitches in the Emergency Room. Ask me how I know.
Or just change the discs which is easy to do. Much cheaper than buying another grinder and it takes up far less room.
@@garymeyer3294 If I'm really into what I am working on, I hate stopping to change a disc, therefor I have (3) grinders not counting my cordless. The corded ones aren't that expensive, especially on sale.
@@garymeyer3294 All is true. However, it takes longer to swap disks than to pick up another grinder. And if you are doing a lot of swapping back and forth it is a big time saver. Plus you can get a cheap Harbor Freight grinder for something like $20 each.
@@blackhawkinternationalsecu6962 I agree if you have a lot of swapping to do.
Might think of using a copper pipe that will slip over the shaft - so as you cut the plastic and see you nick the copper you know you are through. Can be sink drain or any scrap tubing. That is my food of thought for the day.
Thanks, Tim. You made it look easy.
It IS easy :-). Have confidence!
Thanks I just cut mine off 2" on my yanmar 155d to my tiller
I appreciate the way to teach.
I worry about bottoming out pto shaft when 3pt brush hog is angled up when coming out of a ditch. Will that length be shorter than measuring when raising and lowering? Also I removed covers to cut them. Also if you cut crooked it can ruin the balance of shaft which makes machine vibrate.
Informative video, thank you. Merry Christmas!