I'm overjoyed watching this craftsman at work! I look back at the restoration I did, on jackstands, thinking how the hell are you supposed to keep this thing lined up? Ahhhhh.... thats how. LOL, I wished I would have seen this video 25 years ago! If I may, ever most humbly, make a suggestion, please wear eye protection, by habit, anywhere near metal work. I know there is a small percentage of my car embedded in my eyes, as a keepsake for those years hunkered down in the garage. You may not want such a gift yourself! Massive thumbs up, and subscribed! :)
Thank you very much and I will always wear eye protection now when grinding and cutting as I have had metal cut out of my eyes over 5 times, you would think eventually I would learn. I haven't had it happen yet while using the air hammer or drill yet but you are 100% correct on your recommendation.
@@carthageclassiccars Well done! 5 times at about $150 a go? :) You could have bought more AMD metal with that dough! LOL, I even got metal lodged while using those goggles with the air holes, so nothing is perfect! I've since gone with a full face flip down protection + light safety glasses and haven't had any problems since. Keep up the good work!
Thank you and I agree its so many little pieces that make up and all designed to work together to provide the structure. Lots of pictures when disassembling one you haven't worked on yet is very helpful.
Thanks for another great video. You definitely show the importance of a jig and how to support the rest of the car that will remain. I always look forward to my weekly training class. Thanks for sharing all the tips and tricks.
I give you credit, that is hard dirty work and you are very skilled at it, like a surgeon, I wish I could have found your channel before I did my car. Great pointers and tricks that I had to learn the hard way. Nice work!
Thank you, I also had to learn the hard way and why I am trying to share some of the stuff so people can learn from my mistakes. I feel there is too much camera tricks on the internet and some cars out there built for the internet and hacked together knowing they will never really see the street or leave out key items in the whole process. So people doing it in their garage that are ambitions try it then realize its wrong but its too late for their build.
Felicitaciones sos un artesano de primera y tambien aprecio la dedicacion a tantas preguntas y el tiempo que te toma hacerlo, me asombra ver tu trabajos hechos a conciencia y tan puntillosos en todo sus tramos desde Argentina veo tus videos tan educativos mas para la gente que se dedica a reataurar como tu abeazo amigo.
Nice video. I have never seen a b body taken that far apart. It’s nice to see how much thought and work goes in to doing it right. It does seem like you should use full quarters after going this far though
Thank you for watching. That's the one thing I wish if I could go back is not even start the build until the owner agrees to full quarters on this one.
I've been binge watching all your MOPAR work over the last year, this past couple of weeks, and wish I'd seen your channel before I did the metal work on my Superbee. It was a slow tedious struggle not knowing how things went together. I spent countless hours with spot cutters and grinders. That leads me to a quick suggestion. Can you incorporate in your videos how much time is spent on each of those videos? We know this is fast speed review but are you doing most the work in these 30 min videos over the course of a day or week? I have an A body to do soon, and I think I'm underestimating the amount of dedicated time I'm going to need. I love watching your work and you tackle everything like it's a piece of cake!
Thanks a lot for checking out the stuff I have been working on I really do appreciate it. Honestly its a great suggestion but the hours into the project and what it cost are intentionally left out of these videos. The reason is I am not trying to set the market for other shops or even myself after someone watches the video. For instance If I do a roof on a vehicle and it takes 4 hours to do some and I say that in the video, people will take that as a hard quote. Lets say their roof takes 5 hours for some unforeseen reason or just a different part stamping. It makes my job explaining and comparing the two different jobs and why this other job cost them more. That is the problem with filming videos like these while doing as a business. There is a video coming out soon that I go in dept, a little further your question on this car.
Had another question for ya. I have watched a LOT of your videos in the last couple days, but not all, so you may have answered this before and if you did I apologize. You tend to cut and replace as many parts as you can because it gives a better result. You also treat things 200% better than anything else I have seen out there, like your cars will last forever and I respect that. But if what do you do for something that cannot be accessed as easily. Let's say an inner subframe rail, youll do a full resto, clean it up, ospho, epoxy primer, and its safe from rust forever. But what do you do for inner frame rails you cannot access? I know people shoot something like Eastwood Inner Frame Coating, but even that will rust overtime. I know frame rails are much stronger and will last way longer than a body panel but is there any "secret" you may have or technique to this? really curious about this one. Thanks!
Really thanks a lot for watching! So actually the next video in the series I did address your exact same question on this Charger. Personally I think you answered your own question the eastwood, or some kind of chassis paint on the tip with a hose nozzle and just spray and pray is I feel your best option but still not ideal. What we are banking on is at this point in these cars existence they should have more of a pampered life, valued, and cared for at this point in time. So the likelihood of rust eating a frame rail from the inside out before the cars exterior would need a full total restoration again I feel is not going to happen. Personally if I were buying a car I would find one automatically knowing we would cut the whole exterior body off the car and treat it properly where I can access as much as possible. Saying that a lot of the major rust issues lies in the mopars and not as bad in the GM's. I know you said you were looking at a NOVA and in my experience the GM line of 60's-70's era cars I have seen the inner structures are a lot more protected from the factory and usually a little more rare to see the rust on the inner supports up high and even the rails if they look alright from the outside on a GM you should be ok.
Wow this is a ton of work. Reminds me of the vanishing charger car nick's garage did on his channel. Even the roof skin got replaced. Everything did. Hard to believe it was worse than this car. Insnane amount of work in that car i dodnt think its even done yet. Imagine if dodge had done better sealing all these joints and mating spots. Man this is a huge undertaking. Hope the customer has bottomless pockets. Lol.
Yes you are right its a big project and anyone that invests in one of these cars has got to really be committed. The good thing about when you do it this way vs buying one at least you know its got good bones and should be built hopefully better then dodge did it originally. Saying that planned obsolesce is how these were built and never constructed or designed to last 50 years and be show pieces.
I have seen some guys build the floor section first front to rear and like you said drop the body on that solid base. I could see how that would work and don't disagree with that method. As long as all the points are Jiged up and in place.
So it needed a few patches. Personally its faster and the job comes out better when I put an entire floor in a car for me especially when its already on a frame JIG. Also the car needs torsion bar crossmember and inner rocker at that point in my opinion there is no easy way to do these two installations without removing the floor. Sometimes on these cars you have to sacrifice good parts to know the rest of the car is up to quality standards.
im about to start the same process. My pans are a lot worse. do you recommend a support in the door opening to keep car from flexing? or does your rotiss prevent that?
So in this video I would consider this a frame JIG. A rotisserie is something that hooks on the front and rear only of the car used to flip the car over or twirl it. I would recommend NOT using a rotisserie for sheet metal replacement but only for bodywork. If you are building a frame JIG like in the picture as long as the frame jig doesn't move and and the car is supported on different points using the JIG as its structure there usually isn't a need for any door support. In this video not sure if you watched the entire video but the entire floor pan and torsion support was removed. I didn't add any door support and the car lined up just perfect when finished.
@@carthageclassiccarsthanks for explaining that its a full jig, my other question is why don't you brace the rear with quarters n trunk pan being removed. I understand the inner wheel tubs but from Duthmans to rear valance around trunk won't that sag?
That is usually the biggest disagreement, how I feel about it is better to have a safe rust free car then trying to keep something isn't structurally sound. If we don't replace it most of these cars are unroadworthy.
He told me not to worry about that and he was working it so I am not sure honestly. Its really hard putting these cars together this day and age with the parts lack of availability.
The best info I’ve found on car building, a great help to me. The nova build showed what a true craftsman can do. By the way, what size mig wire do you use ?
Thank you. On the Mig wire question, honestly i have .026, .030. and .035 all on hand and do honestly change them out constantly. Usually I try to keep .030 wire in the welder for most of the rosette welds and car frame rails its a great all around wire and can be fine tuned easier with wire speed for multiple uses. The .035 I will use for thick 1/4 inch plus thickness jobs like building of this frame JIG. I don't use the .026 as much because I would normally use it on outer body panels but most of the time I would use that size wire I will take out the TIG welder instead. If you need to buy one size wire in summary .030 non flux core wire is my go too of choice.
I'm overjoyed watching this craftsman at work! I look back at the restoration I did, on jackstands, thinking how the hell are you supposed to keep this thing lined up? Ahhhhh.... thats how. LOL, I wished I would have seen this video 25 years ago! If I may, ever most humbly, make a suggestion, please wear eye protection, by habit, anywhere near metal work. I know there is a small percentage of my car embedded in my eyes, as a keepsake for those years hunkered down in the garage. You may not want such a gift yourself! Massive thumbs up, and subscribed! :)
Thank you very much and I will always wear eye protection now when grinding and cutting as I have had metal cut out of my eyes over 5 times, you would think eventually I would learn. I haven't had it happen yet while using the air hammer or drill yet but you are 100% correct on your recommendation.
@@carthageclassiccars Well done! 5 times at about $150 a go? :) You could have bought more AMD metal with that dough! LOL, I even got metal lodged while using those goggles with the air holes, so nothing is perfect! I've since gone with a full face flip down protection + light safety glasses and haven't had any problems since. Keep up the good work!
@@chargerr4807 You are right that is the best for Protection
Cant think of a better way to spend an hour. Watching a Craftsman at work.
Thank you very much!
I really enjoy watching you work can't wat til its my time
Thanks, send me an email sometime to confirm some stuff to make sure we are squared away for that time. I look forward to it!
What a flipping JOB !
Yes unfortunately thats how most of them are after all these years of neglect.
Very thorough operation,very entertaining and educational. It's amazing how many sheetmetal parts make up the body.
Thank you and I agree its so many little pieces that make up and all designed to work together to provide the structure. Lots of pictures when disassembling one you haven't worked on yet is very helpful.
Oh, and the comment. "That's how it is for most cars.... well Mopars..." I died laughing! Only a Mopar owner can truly appreciate what you meant!
Yes I love these kind of cars but if you been around them long enough like you said you know.
Love your work. Just bought a 68. Think I’m just gonna drive it. LOL
Thanks and 100% I don't blame you for that, enjoy your 68!
I am impressed by how efficient you operate even with such major repairs. I can't imagine there are many others with your skills.
Thanks a lot.
An exceptional training video, really helps the homebuilder.
Thank you
Your videos are always educational.
Thank you
Thanks for another great video. You definitely show the importance of a jig and how to support the rest of the car that will remain. I always look forward to my weekly training class. Thanks for sharing all the tips and tricks.
You are welcome thanks again for watching!
I give you credit, that is hard dirty work and you are very skilled at it, like a surgeon, I wish I could have found your channel before I did my car. Great pointers and tricks that I had to learn the hard way. Nice work!
Thank you, I also had to learn the hard way and why I am trying to share some of the stuff so people can learn from my mistakes. I feel there is too much camera tricks on the internet and some cars out there built for the internet and hacked together knowing they will never really see the street or leave out key items in the whole process. So people doing it in their garage that are ambitions try it then realize its wrong but its too late for their build.
This is my first time watching your channel and I already like it. I’m gonna keep watching it. This is nice I like the way you work.
Thanks a lot I really appreciate it!
Felicitaciones sos un artesano de primera y tambien aprecio la dedicacion a tantas preguntas y el tiempo que te toma hacerlo, me asombra ver tu trabajos hechos a conciencia y tan puntillosos en todo sus tramos desde Argentina veo tus videos tan educativos mas para la gente que se dedica a reataurar como tu abeazo amigo.
Muchas gracias agradezco sus comentarios que tenga un excelente día!
Nice video. I have never seen a b body taken that far apart. It’s nice to see how much thought and work goes in to doing it right. It does seem like you should use full quarters after going this far though
Thank you for watching. That's the one thing I wish if I could go back is not even start the build until the owner agrees to full quarters on this one.
Good to see you again Rick. I wish you all the luck young man!!
Thank you very much Really appreciate it!
I've been binge watching all your MOPAR work over the last year, this past couple of weeks, and wish I'd seen your channel before I did the metal work on my Superbee. It was a slow tedious struggle not knowing how things went together. I spent countless hours with spot cutters and grinders. That leads me to a quick suggestion. Can you incorporate in your videos how much time is spent on each of those videos? We know this is fast speed review but are you doing most the work in these 30 min videos over the course of a day or week? I have an A body to do soon, and I think I'm underestimating the amount of dedicated time I'm going to need. I love watching your work and you tackle everything like it's a piece of cake!
Thanks a lot for checking out the stuff I have been working on I really do appreciate it. Honestly its a great suggestion but the hours into the project and what it cost are intentionally left out of these videos. The reason is I am not trying to set the market for other shops or even myself after someone watches the video. For instance If I do a roof on a vehicle and it takes 4 hours to do some and I say that in the video, people will take that as a hard quote. Lets say their roof takes 5 hours for some unforeseen reason or just a different part stamping. It makes my job explaining and comparing the two different jobs and why this other job cost them more. That is the problem with filming videos like these while doing as a business. There is a video coming out soon that I go in dept, a little further your question on this car.
nice work thanks for the info
you are welcome
Had another question for ya. I have watched a LOT of your videos in the last couple days, but not all, so you may have answered this before and if you did I apologize. You tend to cut and replace as many parts as you can because it gives a better result. You also treat things 200% better than anything else I have seen out there, like your cars will last forever and I respect that. But if what do you do for something that cannot be accessed as easily. Let's say an inner subframe rail, youll do a full resto, clean it up, ospho, epoxy primer, and its safe from rust forever. But what do you do for inner frame rails you cannot access? I know people shoot something like Eastwood Inner Frame Coating, but even that will rust overtime. I know frame rails are much stronger and will last way longer than a body panel but is there any "secret" you may have or technique to this? really curious about this one. Thanks!
Really thanks a lot for watching! So actually the next video in the series I did address your exact same question on this Charger. Personally I think you answered your own question the eastwood, or some kind of chassis paint on the tip with a hose nozzle and just spray and pray is I feel your best option but still not ideal. What we are banking on is at this point in these cars existence they should have more of a pampered life, valued, and cared for at this point in time. So the likelihood of rust eating a frame rail from the inside out before the cars exterior would need a full total restoration again I feel is not going to happen. Personally if I were buying a car I would find one automatically knowing we would cut the whole exterior body off the car and treat it properly where I can access as much as possible. Saying that a lot of the major rust issues lies in the mopars and not as bad in the GM's. I know you said you were looking at a NOVA and in my experience the GM line of 60's-70's era cars I have seen the inner structures are a lot more protected from the factory and usually a little more rare to see the rust on the inner supports up high and even the rails if they look alright from the outside on a GM you should be ok.
Wow this is a ton of work. Reminds me of the vanishing charger car nick's garage did on his channel. Even the roof skin got replaced. Everything did. Hard to believe it was worse than this car.
Insnane amount of work in that car i dodnt think its even done yet.
Imagine if dodge had done better sealing all these joints and mating spots.
Man this is a huge undertaking. Hope the customer has bottomless pockets. Lol.
Yes you are right its a big project and anyone that invests in one of these cars has got to really be committed. The good thing about when you do it this way vs buying one at least you know its got good bones and should be built hopefully better then dodge did it originally. Saying that planned obsolesce is how these were built and never constructed or designed to last 50 years and be show pieces.
Stick with the Mopars Rick
Todd, thank you I just saw this!
looks like it better to just build the car and then put on frame, great job
I have seen some guys build the floor section first front to rear and like you said drop the body on that solid base. I could see how that would work and don't disagree with that method. As long as all the points are Jiged up and in place.
That floor was pretty solid did they need to fully be replaced?
So it needed a few patches. Personally its faster and the job comes out better when I put an entire floor in a car for me especially when its already on a frame JIG. Also the car needs torsion bar crossmember and inner rocker at that point in my opinion there is no easy way to do these two installations without removing the floor. Sometimes on these cars you have to sacrifice good parts to know the rest of the car is up to quality standards.
im about to start the same process. My pans are a lot worse. do you recommend a support in the door opening to keep car from flexing? or does your rotiss prevent that?
So in this video I would consider this a frame JIG. A rotisserie is something that hooks on the front and rear only of the car used to flip the car over or twirl it. I would recommend NOT using a rotisserie for sheet metal replacement but only for bodywork. If you are building a frame JIG like in the picture as long as the frame jig doesn't move and and the car is supported on different points using the JIG as its structure there usually isn't a need for any door support. In this video not sure if you watched the entire video but the entire floor pan and torsion support was removed. I didn't add any door support and the car lined up just perfect when finished.
@@carthageclassiccarsthanks for explaining that its a full jig, my other question is why don't you brace the rear with quarters n trunk pan being removed. I understand the inner wheel tubs but from Duthmans to rear valance around trunk won't that sag?
if you replace every single peice of a 1969 charger is it still the same charger?
That is usually the biggest disagreement, how I feel about it is better to have a safe rust free car then trying to keep something isn't structurally sound. If we don't replace it most of these cars are unroadworthy.
@@carthageclassiccars even responding to a comment on a 8 month old video big dubs carthage lmao
@@frenchonionsoup2048 I thank you for taking the time to comment its the least I can do!
Did the owner get the new fenders? inventory was low
He told me not to worry about that and he was working it so I am not sure honestly. Its really hard putting these cars together this day and age with the parts lack of availability.
@@carthageclassiccarsit’s funny they are still trying to say it’s because of Covid 😂 I really enjoy your videos!
@@michaeladamo1188 Thank you and yes I just roll my eyes when I hear all this is blamed on this and that.
The best info I’ve found on car building, a great help to me. The nova build showed what a true craftsman can do. By the way, what size mig wire do you use ?
Thank you. On the Mig wire question, honestly i have .026, .030. and .035 all on hand and do honestly change them out constantly. Usually I try to keep .030 wire in the welder for most of the rosette welds and car frame rails its a great all around wire and can be fine tuned easier with wire speed for multiple uses. The .035 I will use for thick 1/4 inch plus thickness jobs like building of this frame JIG. I don't use the .026 as much because I would normally use it on outer body panels but most of the time I would use that size wire I will take out the TIG welder instead. If you need to buy one size wire in summary .030 non flux core wire is my go too of choice.
MOPAR = RUST !
That is the truth!