Sandblasting a car and sealing it up in epoxy primer 1969 Charger episode 3
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- Опубликовано: 6 мар 2023
- In this video I go over some tips and tricks if you are sandblasting a classic car or if you are looking into hiring someone to sandblast your car. After sandblasting I walk around the Charger and show some of the upcoming work that we will be preforming on it before I go over the epoxy primer in detail. I show how to mix up the epoxy and some tips and tricks on applying it.
#sandblasting #automotivepaint #restorationvideos
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Love the way you pour the lacquer thinner when working with the spray gun 😁
Dude I said it last video but it’s worth repeating: quality of your videos just keeps getting better. The camera work and editing, but also your comfort in front of the camera too. Your presentation is natural and it’s enough detail for folks to really understand the process but not so long or overly complex to bore anyone. Keep it up brother!
Thank you, talking in front of the camera for me has been something I had to get use too.
Thanks for share all your knowledge!!! awesome job in this car!!
You are welcome, thank you for watching!
I'm 73 years old and I've been doing body and paint for 50 years as a side line. It's amazing how far this industry has come in 50 years. I have watched many of these videos on this subject and can barely get half way through most of them. This is the first time I've seen one of your videos and watched it to the end. You do a fantastic job making your videos, very easy to watch and listen to. You explain in detail and point out the important processes necessary to put out a very good product even with the constaints of customers. It's never too late to learn.
Thank you for the kind words and feedback. I agree 100% it is never too late to learn.
You make this all look so effortless and simple to which many would think it's so overwhelming. Thanks and keep them coming.
Appreciate you watching and thanks for the compliment!
I'm learning a lot. Thank You
Your welcome
Great video I can tell you really want your repairs and the cars to last a long time! Better than the factory! 👍
Thank you
The best epoxy primer I have Found is made by Southern Polyurethanes. Its not only cheaper than the Omni, but it also sprays better and sands easier.
Thanks for the information I will keep that in mind.
Well done, thanks for the tips and tricks with the weld thru primer and tape up afterwards. Sandblasting tips were helpful also.
Glad you got something out of it thanks for watching!
Thanks for share all this experience , and keep with the good work , cheers 🍻
Appreciate you watching!
You are a very talented instructor, interesting to watch
Thank you
Excellent information! Thank you for this. I am restoring a '51 Dodge power wagon and I will use this information.
You are welcome, that is great to hear. Good lock with the power wagon that is such a cool project!
Again again and again... MASTER CLASS video over video! 🎯
Thank you very much!
“Spray and pray” means something completely different to me. 😆
Thank you for putting these videos out. Personally I would love to see updates and steps on patches and repair as I’m sure it will apply to my 68 project. I haven’t started any of my resto yet but look forward to it and these videos give me more confidence!
If not this one ill find a good project to do some patches on down the road
nice work thanks for the info
you are welcome thanks for watching
Love your videos!!
Thanks a lot!!!
Thanks for another educational video.
You are welcome
As always, another great video. I would also like to see some frame repair patches made And installed, Thanks for the videos keep them coming
Thanks for the support, I think the angles will be hard on the charger patch video but I have a plan to maybe try some exterior patches and put it on youtube soon.
For surface rust, I recommend a product called Ospho. It neutralizes rust quickly and works very well.
Yes I agree, if you see any of my other videos I use Ospho all the time and did a whole tutorial video on how I feel it should be used on a challenger with lots of rust on the inner structure that we did no sandblast.
I have been using the Starting Line guns for many many years now and they work great and they are so much less expensive than a lot of guns. My primer one finally started leaking after about 10 years but I found the rebuild kit for it and rebuilt it and now sprays like new again. And I also love the heck out of my Can Dandy paint tool you have too! lol
Thanks for watching and the feedback, I agree with you those starting line as work horses for their price. I think If you clean them after each use like you said you should get plenty of use with them. Also yes that can dandy just makes everything easier with 1 tool .
I have 2 pressure guns I use for undercoating...One has a 5 ft plastic hose with a tip with multiple small holes...I would spray rust bullet into blind spots kinda like fogging it well. It does well onto rust and everything else. 2 to 3 hours its dry. moisture cure...any 5/16 hole would be big enough. Either that or do fluid film with the same gun when you are all done with the car. Great video. Great presentation.
Thank you, Also that seems like it would work well I will remember that.
Why not Zinc Primer? Better rust protection.... Nice presentation, by the way.
Thank you. The primer I use is a Seymour 20-1675 it is a zinc-rich galvanized primer so I believe its what you were asking about. I have tried a few different versions of the high zinc primer and this stuff seems to work the best with the electrode contacts on my spot welder.
The finish of the epoxy looks mint!
The process of the build is not only about what you are doing at the time but thinking a few steps in front to avoid any problems that may arise ?
PS. Err.... can you get a comb through your hair after spraying that epoxy? LOL!!
thanks haha yea that usually is a two time wash in the shower that night.
Some people wear a hat or hood when applying paint products.
@@mightymikethebear It would be better for me to wear a full suit and a hood, saying that bumping my head constantly and not being able to see as good I just haven't been able to go with a full mask and suit. I do have one that is brand new never used.
Thanks!
Thank you very much!
👍
Excellent video! I love how you do the weld through primers. It looks cool! I totally understand that customers are always right. You should ask him if sign a release on the 1/4 panels! Like you said you can spray and pray but you can’t get access to prep the back. I was wondering could you use like a por 15 or equivalent on the bare metal you have left?
Thank you and great advice on the quarter panels and a release. I have used Por 15 in the past and it got the job done but I am not completely sold on it. I think a 2K or two part paint and primers is really the better of quality products from my past experience. If you ever see the red primer in other videos and soon to be this that is an etching primer that I usually will go over the spots of bare metal. It is only temporarily for surface rust and I am not a big fan of top coating the etching primer. If I am doing the body work on the car I will sand down the as much of the etching primer when the car is done, use lacquer thinner on top of it take the acid out of it and epoxy the car one time to seal it off.
I have personally never used it either, but I was thinking it was a good way to neutralize rust if it does what it’s supposed to
There are lots of people that love it. For rust I have had great success with ospho.
Hi! What are your thoughts on chemical dipping instead of sand blasting? As always, impressive work" Greetings from the Swede :-)
Thank you very much. With regarding your question I feel with chemical dipping it is a lot more expensive and once everything is all stripped you can not see I don't think there is a good way of getting primer or paint in areas to protect them again. So underneath where you can't see there is stuff exposed. I think each way of media stripping has its disadvantages and advantages and we take into account all them when deciding.
Im trying to figure out when to use OSPHO and when not to. I saw your Nova video you did a complete floor one piece. If you are marrying old and new parts after the welds are done do you OSPHO the whole thing before you do the primer?
So this is a case by case basis honestly and take each project as a separate decision. Basically if the car is rough enough and I cut out the quarters, floors and most of the external structure I will sand blast and get the metal completely clean. Its just easier and can get more places. This charger was the perfect car that would benefit from blasting. As for that Nova honestly after I removed all the pieces we were replacing the metal was so nice that is wasn't worth moving the car, setting up the blaster for a few smaller pieces. At that point the OSPHO is the way to go. I usually stick with the idea I will only blast a car one time also, anything else I find will be fixed with OSPHO like that 73 Challenger I did the video on.
@Carthage Classic Cars makes sense thanks brother
I've been watching the video again. I have a harbor freight sandblaster that had clogging issues and I'm hoping your method works to prevent clogging.
Have you used the aluminum oxide media?
Can you go into some detail as to what modifications you made for the inside tube?
I am using the same glass media you used and had problems with clogging the tip. I will look into the ball valve gun. I couldn't catch the name of the ball valve gun you mentioned?
What gloves did you use while cleaning with lacquer thinner that didn't melt away?
If you list products used in the description it would be helpful and you could also get some income as well. Thanks for the great videos. I use them as a reference.
Thank you very much, I have really stuck to the crushed glass lately as I feel for what I do it works the best. Coal slag is alright also. I went with the blaster upgrade kit from ameriblast. When you say clogging are you clogging in the actual blast tip or in the pot? Your problem also might be moisture from the compressor getting the sand wet. Its a byproduct of compressing the air constantly. I don't know if I mentioned this but I also run an air dryer on my compressor and its a game changer with the blasting stuff keeping the sand dry and free. As for the blaster pickup, I took out the lower pickup brass plug, then on the inside of it that still fits in the hole in the bottom brazed a copper pipe about 4 inches high. Then on that pipe I drilled 1/4 holes as many as I could so the sand enters the pickup in different locations.
@@carthageclassiccars I think it’s a combination of clogging at the tip but mostly at the bottom of the tank because when I remove the tip it doesn’t immediately push out the media. I start by wiggling the hose to get the glass to drop out and eventually it does clear.
I did empty the compressor water and I figure that helped but then it clogged after a few minutes again I it now seemed like the tip. I used the same Medium Cut Glass as you. I think I have the wrong tip size for the media. What hole size works for you because the one that came with the blaster looks too small. It may be good for a Fine grit but not medium.
All those suggestions sound like great ways to modify and improve performance.
I also plan to run a tandem compressor setup to keep the flow going consistently. I’ll watch your video again but if you have pointers about opening which valves in progression that would help.
What size tip did you get with the ball valve gun? Do you keep the valve open then start the air flow? I heard someone say they don’t shut the ball valve down and only use it for emergency. Get the air flowing and then open the media valve to adjust media concentration. Does that sound right?
On another note. The epoxy primer I bought is by SPI in your neck of the woods. They don’t recommend using any rust converter, don’t wipe lacquer thinner or acetone on the metal. They say only use reducer to clean the gun. Use OSPHO sparingly if anything. I did spray red oxide primer to protect the bare metal over the winter where I welded and grinded. It worked well. I’m just hoping there isn’t any issues later when I spray the epoxy.
Have you changed anything about your methods or have you stuck with wiping red oxide primer off with lacquer thinner has not been a problem?
Thanks Rick. I know you must be busy so I appreciate your help. Looking forward to more videos.
@@jimdrechsel3611 I really still think most of your issue is the little bit of moisture in the line, if you pull the plug on the bottom of the blaster is is damp? I use a 3/16 nozzel on this blaster. Its small as my compressor cfm you don't want to go too big to drop pressure. What I do is open the pot nozzle all the way then the air nozzle dial it back and forth until i get good flow. Usually once its set the blaster works with no issues. Again I have an expensive dry air source you would get from a high end paint shop so a slight advantage on my end. I use the ball valve on and off and once the pot valves are adjusted I almost never touch them and only use the hose ball valve. Again if you have moisture in your air all the sand will clump up when not moving.
I can't speak of the SPI epoxy as I don't use it. With the Omni epoxy I haven't changed up the methods too much. Actually the only thing is I have an industrial wet blaster so most of the time all my cars are blasted every square inch and rust converter and OSPHO is almost never used. I have not had a problem using OSPHO properly then scuffing up the welded areas or sanding over it and using laquer and wax and grease remover. Obviously Lacquer will evaporate. As far as the red etch primer I can't remember in this video if I used it but I remove that with the lacquer and that is 100% temporary. Even now I rarely ever use it as not I usually strip most of the panels and then epoxy a section of the car to seal it so no need for the red oxide.
So you just blowing it off clean, then prime- no solvents, no rubbing or sanding?
Yes when you are done sandblasting there is no need to add anything but to get out the sand from the area before priming. With a medium grit sand material you will get great adhesion.
Im jumping ahead but what do you recommend for mig spot welds, 3/16 or 1/4? I can do both and Im not sure which one would be better
I would say 1/4 but most of the time I will be at 5/16 or 8mm. Do a couple test sheets on your power settings to make sure you are getting good penetration. For frame sections I am even a little larger in diameter at time.
Are you using a Deadman valve at the end of your hose. I got mine from Northern tools and it came with 3 different nozzle tips, I mainly use black beauty media, j l y k
Yea my blaster is also the northern tool model, but I added a kit on it from www.ameriblaster.com/ that is made to upgrade the northern tool blaster
Great, thanks for getting back to me
Great info- I was wondering what type of weld thru primer you prefer? I haven’t had very good luck with a couple of my choices?
Thanks, lately I have been using Seymour 20-1675 weld through primer and have liked it the best out of the bunch I have tried. Maybe buy a can or two and see what you think, good luck!
Thanks for responding! I am sure I will be asking advise as my boy and I start on his 71 challenger. Once again your videos are great
@@mycobain3114 Good luck on the project and sure ask away I don't mind giving advice and like talking cars
How’s it going? I was wondering if you have ever used Dynacorn floor pans? And if so how they compare to others
I was wondering I know it's a big variable but if you had to guess how many pounds of media do you use on an average muscle car floorboard ,firewall , and trunk like a 70 Camaro?
Inside
@@sandysquitieri7474 There are so many factors from how much paint, blast nozzle size, and blaster settings. For instance my wet blaster for that area might use 8-10 where this smaller pot would be more like 15 plus.
what is the brand of the pouring spout.
For the primer I just got them off amazon searching gallon mixing paint can lids
Do you prep blasted metal at all? I have seen products for that purpose and sometimes see others use red scotchbrite first over blasted metal and use 80 grit DA over outer panels. What if any prep for blasted areas? Degreasing? Thanks for great advice.
No usually if I do not touch the metal with bare hands there is no need to prep. Sometimes I might use wax and grease remover but that is rare. No need to use a DA sander as the blast puts a great mechanical grit to bond too.
@@carthageclassiccars is that because of the type of media you use? I think I watched you use a dustless? blast system in another video? Does that require any additional prep?
I’m in the process of watching your videos again. What’s your go to process if it was your car? Blast and then OSPHO the factory weld seams?
Thanks again for the reply.
@@jimdrechsel3611 Actually if you search up 1969 firebird restoration sandblast under my videos that is my car I blast and go over the process. I won't add anything to the car except in the wet blast I add a rust prevent solution to the blast tank. My firebird I believe I had to add ospho as it was so humid outside I lightly wiped it on but usually don't do that unless needed. Tomorrow I am putting another video out just on wet blasting and the process on a challenger so stay tuned
Interesting. I didn’t know you can add rust inhibitors to the blast tank. OSPHO on just the seams. Right? I will watch both videos. Thanks as always.
@@jimdrechsel3611 if you want the car to stay in bare metal for an extended period of time you can add a light touch of ospho to the entire bare metal surface, but don't get carried away with it where it turns white and crusty or you need to DA everything down again.