h awesome job there thank you for the information and your great tutorship and giving me information on how to do things I am a body man wannabe and you are bringing up my intelligence greatly thank you Sir working on my charger right now so I'll be watching all your videos on the charger thank you
Thank you very much, I hope to be able to find the right charger and do another video series on one of them as I feel that car did not show the full capability of what my shop can do. Either way enjoy the Charger series and I appreciate you watching!
i enjoy the format of your channel. You continuously narrate what you're doing, have close ups. What's a real pleasure is the ABSENCE of annoying music loops playing through a plethora of sped-up vidiage taken from a distance which is no more-than a time-sink. What you're doing is informative and of value to those of us who are trying to get our Mopars and all brands of classic rides on the highway. Keep up the good work!
Thanks for the feedback and watching the video some times the close up shots are hard to get but trying to do our best documenting these builds while also trying not to overwhelm with footage.
That pro spot is awesome it does save so much time, I know you said you have a collision shop it really is also worth its weight in gold as a dent puller, metal shrinker, and all the other small things it does besides just welding.
Your video production keeps getting better and as always the info is top notch! I remember when I first subscribed I think you had under 100 subs and now your channel is bigger than mine lol. Your channel deserves it and I suspect you’ll be 50k subs in a year or two! P.S. I had taken the door skins off the upper part of the frame without cutting the bracket out like you did and after seeing how you did it I wish I had thought of that haha
Thank you, same as with the cars, the youtube production stuff has been a learning process and always trying to make it better. I really appreciate you subscribing even really early on as a I have went back and watched a few clips from really early videos and they have a lot of issues. Also at the time I probably had to convince 20 people I knew to also be a part of those 100 first subscribers. I went over to your channel to check some of your stuff out and have subscribed you have a lot of cool stuff going on there when I have some down time Ill check out a few more of your videos.
Thank you, I have never done a video just on the door alignment but have touched on it in lots of my videos. Basically you could buy a new set of AMD hinges or rebuild your original. With the AMD ones I have installed them on factory cars and had to take a deburring tool and move the holes to get more adjustment. When aligning the door I always go off the front rocker to lower door corner, doing so will make the front fender alignment much more appealing. Then get them level to the rocker panel, this should make your quarter gap really close. Once you set those step back and take it all in as a whole and compromise a little here and there to make it look best. I will then go back and profile the door in and out. You have gave me an idea for a possible video in the future good luck with it!
Regarding the prospot 2000. Are you running 3 phase or single phase 240? If you are using 3 phase are you using a converter and if so which one did you go with?
Thanks for another great video, I have never installed a doorskin. But after watching your video It no longer seems intimidating. I have a question with all the new sheet metal and frame rails being installed on this challenger. Will you be rustproofing inside the frame rails or using spray on sound deadling material inside the quarter panels and doors? If so, what products and tools would be necessary. Thanks.
Thank you and that's a very good question and honestly each car is slightly different. I work on an hourly rate for these cars so I have to try and make sure the owner get the most out of their money using my time. I will try and cover your question on the next video with the Charger but in summary anything factory I can access I try to at least epoxy prime, the same goes with anything exterior I try to strip down best I can and put in a good epoxy primer. Epoxy will resist water and corrosion better then anything else, Realistically unless you completely remove every part of the car piece by piece and take it down to bare metal the car will have some vulnerable spots. I do a lot of spray and pray on areas, but also like the inside of the frame rails of this challenger with these new parts I am probably not going to do anything to it. I believe and hoping the E coat that these aftermarket companies put on is quality enough and really for anything I apply to stick well it needs to have a mechanical tooth adhesion through sanding so if I can't sand it the primer wont stick. If you are doing it at home and want to really really go over the top, anything new you install can be stripped to bare metal and put in epoxy primer or even each panel inside could also be base and clear coated the color of the car. Its hard for me to charge an owner for a lot of stuff that no one will ever see. Same goes with the metal inside these doors there was some scars from rust pitting after blast but no more rust we protected it best we can but if I fix everything perfect that no one will ever see or notice the doors costs gets way too out of control, but I have had some request in the past to go to similar levels and that's when the time vs money discussion comes into play for my shop. Hope that helps answer some of your question.
The red primer is an oxide primer self etching that I put over the bare metal to prevent rust instead of mixing a 2k epoxy for every little item. On this project with me doing the body work I will sand it all down and neutralize it with lacquer thinner when i do the entire panel then epoxy all at once when the car is complete. That will get it all a unified epoxy primer before any body work is done. Etching primers are highly acidic and you should not really put anything but epoxy over it but in the reality makes spot priming something that is easy and better to have this then surface rust with the humidity where I live.
You took a lot of apprehension away by posting this video. Great work. Are you going to remove all the red oxide primer I saw with lacquer thinner before you apply epoxy primer? Scuff it and prime over it? Do you have a video or will you have one showing how to install inner and outer rocker panels? The AMD rocker panels I put in had to be squeezed together during installation and I was wondering if you had to work with some rockers that much. Whenever I used a spot welder you had to really make the metals was touching or it would pop right through either the top or bottom panel. I can see how if you are using the single side welder that you would have to check that? That would be a big disappointment if you get that far and the last step messing up the metal panel while spot welding.
Yes Red Oxide primer will be removed with Laquer thinner. I will get back to this car soon as its waiting for the cuda to be painted before I put it on the rotisserie. I haven't actually done a e-body rocker panel yet as every e body I ran across so far that part seems like it never rusts. I did do inner rockers on the 69 Charger video and outer rockers on the Nova build. They would be a similar process but noting exactly what you are looking for right now. Also check out the 69 firebird last video i go over how i install rockers on that car. As for my spot welder I haven't had that issue with it as it in pneumatic and pre squeeze's the panels with 80 PSI then is timed after pressure is applied to then burn in the panel. It also has a timing set to hold it together while the weld cools. Really makes it idiot proof at this point for me. Not sure what welder you have but with these really nice rigs it stops a lot of those issues.
@@carthageclassiccars thanks for the reply Rick. I was talk about the single electrode welder that doesn’t squeeze you used toward the end of the door skin assembly. It really is interesting to watch you make it look so easy. I’m not sure how you achieved your skill level but you are relatively young to have such a great skill level. On a side note I am getting an engine block repaired. The ear at the end of the rear starter area bolt that fastens the bottom of the bell housing was broken when I got my engine back from the engine builder. The welder told me about if I remember right a tig process that doesn’t require preheating the block which works for me since I don’t want to damage the pang gasket and other things. I will get back to you later with what he used. You might benefit from the information.
@@jimdrechsel3611 Oh yes you are right the door has to be hammered down fully. That door skimmer tool really does a good job making sure its all set down close. Let me know about how that TIG process works, I have see other do similar process with aluminum bronze as more of a glue but always open to something new. Thanks a lot for the info can contribution to the discussion.
Its a pro spot pr-2000 its 240 or 3 phase 408 volts. I bought it used from a body shop since it doesn't meet the clamping specifications of the modern collision requirements with the modern alloys but far exceeds what the 40 plus year old cars need.
Yes I heard the darts currently don't have that much of a support base. There are a few cars I have messed with in the past that were that same and it makes it much more of a challenge.
At the end I talked about that a little bit where I align the doors off the rockers and stated that there will probably need some future adjustments as more parts are assembled on the car. In my opinion a car this disassembled is built off the door hinge pillar working back first then when everything is welded then I would move on to the fenders off the door. If you follow along i will document my version of the process on this build.
I need to do this on my car real soon. That spot welder is a nice tool! Thanks for the video.
You are welcome, Good luck with your build.
h awesome job there thank you for the information and your great tutorship and giving me information on how to do things I am a body man wannabe and you are bringing up my intelligence greatly thank you Sir working on my charger right now so I'll be watching all your videos on the charger thank you
Thank you very much, I hope to be able to find the right charger and do another video series on one of them as I feel that car did not show the full capability of what my shop can do. Either way enjoy the Charger series and I appreciate you watching!
Man I learned a lot on this one. Thanks again.
You are welcome thanks a lot for watching!
Thank you for pointing out the differences in the same part from competing parts suppliers.
You are welcome!
Man I'm learning so much more thank you!
You are welcome, thanks for watching!
Pretty to watch. After grinding the skin edges it just fell out!! The fitment of both panels was spot on .
Thank you and I agree both door skins were quality products.
i enjoy the format of your channel. You continuously narrate what you're doing, have close ups. What's a real pleasure is the ABSENCE of annoying music loops playing through a plethora of sped-up vidiage taken from a distance which is no more-than a time-sink.
What you're doing is informative and of value to those of us who are trying to get our Mopars and all brands of classic rides on the highway. Keep up the good work!
Thanks for the feedback and watching the video some times the close up shots are hard to get but trying to do our best documenting these builds while also trying not to overwhelm with footage.
Great video Rick. This will definitely come in handy on my project.
Thats awesome to hear thanks a lot!
Thank you! I learned a lot. Also, like the shop and equipment too.
Thanks for watching appreciate the comment!
Your videos are extremely well narrated that matches great restoration skills
Thank you!
As always beautiful workmanship
Thank you
Been looking at that welder for Ford' truck repair and many other repairs a time saver
That pro spot is awesome it does save so much time, I know you said you have a collision shop it really is also worth its weight in gold as a dent puller, metal shrinker, and all the other small things it does besides just welding.
Your video production keeps getting better and as always the info is top notch! I remember when I first subscribed I think you had under 100 subs and now your channel is bigger than mine lol. Your channel deserves it and I suspect you’ll be 50k subs in a year or two!
P.S. I had taken the door skins off the upper part of the frame without cutting the bracket out like you did and after seeing how you did it I wish I had thought of that haha
Thank you, same as with the cars, the youtube production stuff has been a learning process and always trying to make it better. I really appreciate you subscribing even really early on as a I have went back and watched a few clips from really early videos and they have a lot of issues. Also at the time I probably had to convince 20 people I knew to also be a part of those 100 first subscribers. I went over to your channel to check some of your stuff out and have subscribed you have a lot of cool stuff going on there when I have some down time Ill check out a few more of your videos.
nice work thanks for the info
Appreciate it you are welcome!
Love the videos, thanks. Do you have a video that shows for removal, installation and alignment? My 70 barracuda has a ton of slop in the doors
Thank you, I have never done a video just on the door alignment but have touched on it in lots of my videos. Basically you could buy a new set of AMD hinges or rebuild your original. With the AMD ones I have installed them on factory cars and had to take a deburring tool and move the holes to get more adjustment. When aligning the door I always go off the front rocker to lower door corner, doing so will make the front fender alignment much more appealing. Then get them level to the rocker panel, this should make your quarter gap really close. Once you set those step back and take it all in as a whole and compromise a little here and there to make it look best. I will then go back and profile the door in and out. You have gave me an idea for a possible video in the future good luck with it!
Regarding the prospot 2000. Are you running 3 phase or single phase 240?
If you are using 3 phase are you using a converter and if so which one did you go with?
I am running it on single phase 240, the welder does both depending how you wire it up and I can't get 3 phase to my shop.
@@carthageclassiccars i appreciate the reply. Thank you.
Thanks for another great video, I have never installed a doorskin. But after watching your video It no longer seems intimidating. I have a question with all the new sheet metal and frame rails being installed on this challenger. Will you be rustproofing inside the frame rails or using spray on sound deadling material inside the quarter panels and doors? If so, what products and tools would be necessary. Thanks.
Thank you and that's a very good question and honestly each car is slightly different. I work on an hourly rate for these cars so I have to try and make sure the owner get the most out of their money using my time. I will try and cover your question on the next video with the Charger but in summary anything factory I can access I try to at least epoxy prime, the same goes with anything exterior I try to strip down best I can and put in a good epoxy primer. Epoxy will resist water and corrosion better then anything else, Realistically unless you completely remove every part of the car piece by piece and take it down to bare metal the car will have some vulnerable spots. I do a lot of spray and pray on areas, but also like the inside of the frame rails of this challenger with these new parts I am probably not going to do anything to it. I believe and hoping the E coat that these aftermarket companies put on is quality enough and really for anything I apply to stick well it needs to have a mechanical tooth adhesion through sanding so if I can't sand it the primer wont stick. If you are doing it at home and want to really really go over the top, anything new you install can be stripped to bare metal and put in epoxy primer or even each panel inside could also be base and clear coated the color of the car. Its hard for me to charge an owner for a lot of stuff that no one will ever see. Same goes with the metal inside these doors there was some scars from rust pitting after blast but no more rust we protected it best we can but if I fix everything perfect that no one will ever see or notice the doors costs gets way too out of control, but I have had some request in the past to go to similar levels and that's when the time vs money discussion comes into play for my shop. Hope that helps answer some of your question.
Yes, Thanks
what brand weld through primer do you use. Thanks
Lately I have been happy in general with Seymour 20-1675. If you try it let me know what you think.
Great video again. Is the red primer epoxy, if not do you epoxy over it ?
The red primer is an oxide primer self etching that I put over the bare metal to prevent rust instead of mixing a 2k epoxy for every little item. On this project with me doing the body work I will sand it all down and neutralize it with lacquer thinner when i do the entire panel then epoxy all at once when the car is complete. That will get it all a unified epoxy primer before any body work is done. Etching primers are highly acidic and you should not really put anything but epoxy over it but in the reality makes spot priming something that is easy and better to have this then surface rust with the humidity where I live.
You took a lot of apprehension away by posting this video. Great work. Are you going to remove all the red oxide primer I saw with lacquer thinner before you apply epoxy primer? Scuff it and prime over it?
Do you have a video or will you have one showing how to install inner and outer rocker panels? The AMD rocker panels I put in had to be squeezed together during installation and I was wondering if you had to work with some rockers that much. Whenever I used a spot welder you had to really make the metals was touching or it would pop right through either the top or bottom panel. I can see how if you are using the single side welder that you would have to check that? That would be a big disappointment if you get that far and the last step messing up the metal panel while spot welding.
Yes Red Oxide primer will be removed with Laquer thinner. I will get back to this car soon as its waiting for the cuda to be painted before I put it on the rotisserie. I haven't actually done a e-body rocker panel yet as every e body I ran across so far that part seems like it never rusts. I did do inner rockers on the 69 Charger video and outer rockers on the Nova build. They would be a similar process but noting exactly what you are looking for right now. Also check out the 69 firebird last video i go over how i install rockers on that car.
As for my spot welder I haven't had that issue with it as it in pneumatic and pre squeeze's the panels with 80 PSI then is timed after pressure is applied to then burn in the panel. It also has a timing set to hold it together while the weld cools. Really makes it idiot proof at this point for me. Not sure what welder you have but with these really nice rigs it stops a lot of those issues.
@@carthageclassiccars thanks for the reply Rick. I was talk about the single electrode welder that doesn’t squeeze you used toward the end of the door skin assembly. It really is interesting to watch you make it look so easy. I’m not sure how you achieved your skill level but you are relatively young to have such a great skill level.
On a side note I am getting an engine block repaired. The ear at the end of the rear starter area bolt that fastens the bottom of the bell housing was broken when I got my engine back from the engine builder. The welder told me about if I remember right a tig process that doesn’t require preheating the block which works for me since I don’t want to damage the pang gasket and other things. I will get back to you later with what he used. You might benefit from the information.
@@jimdrechsel3611 Oh yes you are right the door has to be hammered down fully. That door skimmer tool really does a good job making sure its all set down close. Let me know about how that TIG process works, I have see other do similar process with aluminum bronze as more of a glue but always open to something new. Thanks a lot for the info can contribution to the discussion.
What brand is your spot welder, 120 OR 240 VOLT, and where did you purchase? Thank you!
Its a pro spot pr-2000 its 240 or 3 phase 408 volts. I bought it used from a body shop since it doesn't meet the clamping specifications of the modern collision requirements with the modern alloys but far exceeds what the 40 plus year old cars need.
@@carthageclassiccars Thank you so much for the reply
I have a 72 dart i wish it had this much parts dupport the only thing i can find new is the rear quarter...
Yes I heard the darts currently don't have that much of a support base. There are a few cars I have messed with in the past that were that same and it makes it much more of a challenge.
How do you alone the doors without rear quarters ?
At the end I talked about that a little bit where I align the doors off the rockers and stated that there will probably need some future adjustments as more parts are assembled on the car. In my opinion a car this disassembled is built off the door hinge pillar working back first then when everything is welded then I would move on to the fenders off the door. If you follow along i will document my version of the process on this build.