Hot diggity dog!! He's back on the locomotive....been waiting a long time for this day!! I even left work early...lol. Great to see you Mr. Crispin. Cheers!!
Great to see you back in the workshop, and making progress on the cylinders, always worth watching and enjoy both your dedication to accuracy and practical solutions along the way.
Wonderful stuff! I’m at a very similar point in my own locomotive and you’ve inspired me to pin the back heads and slide bars for better repeatability on assembly. It remains to be seen if there will be room in the smaller scale, but I shall try.
Rookie machinist here. Wondering if a shouldered bolt would help for the slide locations? Or is it that the bolt and threads are "loose" and the dowel pin is needed for repeatable accuracy? Great video as always.
thanks for taking time to post more of you very fine work. show me a man that never makes a cods and I will show you the one that has never made anything.
Great to see you back Crispin. Gives me an excuse to stick the headphones on while the other half is watching a movie on the tellybox. Rather looking forward to watching this one.
Coming along nicely. Liked the recap tips, but for me another great take-away was leaving on some extra material for a true up operation later. Can't wait for the next video on this build.
Mr. Crispen is a master! This was a great tutorial of how to work in sub 1000nths precision. It points out the importance of having a surface plate and knowing how to use it. I, by the way, am very far from having even close to Mr. Crispen's skills. I am still using dial calipers much of the time! Ha. Ha.
Great to have you back. Wonderful to be back in the workshop with you. Are you going to do an interview with your NRM Tutor again? I could listen to him speak about engineering for hours.
G’day From Tasmania it’s good to see you again those cylinder blocks are a real credit to you they are truly beautiful the way you have machined them and the slide bars. Kind regards John
Nice to see you back Crispin. The last time was at Mach 2024. Excellent work as usual, and nice recovery on the slight error. Looking forward to the next stage of the build. Take care. ATB Nobby
Wonderful to see you’ve got back onto the Locomotive Sir and one mustn’t forget Sherry oclock goes afterwards indeed, A delight and joy to watch and I presume you’ve taken my advice on making tea Sir , kindest regards Jefferson and the new position is going well so far , I await more marvels and advancements on the locomotive side .
As always, I love your approach to these videos. I miss working precision metal as I am slugging my way through a new timber frame shop and moving machines. Cant wait to get back at it. Until then, its videos like these that satisfy ones machine addiction. Keep up the good work.
Retired computer programmer here. Many IBM utility programs have names that start with IEB. Well proven over time, IEBIBALL remains a superb debug tool. ;>D
Nice video, and I like your going through the potential miss drilled hole scenario. I'm puzzled about one detail. I can see how you can assemble the slide bars with the recessed bolt installed and then installing the dowels through the bars followed by the bolts, but how will you disassemble them if needed? The flush dowel needs to be extracted before you can remove the bars from under the recessed bolt.
I have only recently come across your workshop videos. Excellent and extremely instructive. I notice you have a Kerry bench mounted pillar drill. I have a floor standing version. Can I ask you a favour. When you have a moment, please can you take a photo of the inside of the top cover. I am missing the internals completely, bar two pieces of steel plate attached to the top of the cover. I have a very similar looking milling machine, a Pripen from Switzerland, and a Colchester Student that desperately needs its' 3 jaw chuck overhauling. Your video on grinding the chuck jaws was excellent.
Fascinating Mr.C., I enjoyed your explanation of the precision setups and the tiny adjustments to make it perfect and keep it that way. It seems a lot simpler at the end, and I wonder how I would have approached this problem with ny lesser experience etc. A truly fine job and fitment, cheers!
3:57 - By now, you have X- and Y- axis data. 11:17 - On my 'oriental' (main-land or Tiawan, dunno) mill, it took some real 'fiddly' engineering to make it fit, but after some 9 months of (mostly off) effort, it got an X- and Y-axis DRO for not a lot of money, and I no longer count revolutions to return to zero. 26:34 - That's the reason machining optical parts accurately are so difficult: Even if you're machining a 12" long surface, the optic is reading perhaps hundreds of yards off. General: As a punk kid of 12 or so, the father of a friend allowed me to 'keep him company' (pester him) in the process of machining the parts for a 3-1/4" (?- MANY years ago) gauge Atlantic (4-4-2), thereby beginning to teach me how to make chips on a lathe, milling attachment for the lathe, and shaper. Two years later, he allowed me to drive the thing with the instruction that you NEVER LET THE WATER LEVEL FALL BELOW THAT LINE! (I didn't). Later auto hot-rodding didn't hurt, but that WWI flat-belt (babbit-bearing) lathe made it clear that the resultant part was caused be the indian, not the arrow.
suspenders = braces garter belt = suspenders sweater = jumper jumper = sleeveless dress worn with a blouse ... US/UK differences in word usage can be problematic. Thankfully, precise measurements, either Metric or Imperial, are anything but problematic.
Mr Crispin your doing it again, at 4-00 your trying to eye ball it & your 80 microns out before using indicator, just put the spirit level on it,then clock it as you say, you won't be far out if any, ( I take it your machine is level) enjoy your videos always looking forward to a new one, from Coventry 🇬🇧👍.
Mr C., wouldn’t the prototype have used studs and nuts to hold the cylinder end covers on ?, and might that not be the way forward, in this case ? Good to see you back ! Kind regards, Steve A.
Nice FP1 you have there. I'm a proud owner of one myself! I'm here living in Buffalo NY and need to find a way to lock the spindle so i can use the power feeds to indicate parts without it running and turning my dial indicator,any ideas would be greatly appreciated! And if you have figured out a way to hook up a rpm sensor to the spindle wound be great! Love watching your vids with the fp1, i learn something new everyday!!!
Got there in the end Crispin. Now I have said this before but here it is again, RETIRE the hat throwing lark, been going on too long now, it's Old Hat 🙂 it has run the course. Time for a new gimmik if you still want to do one. Regards from Australia.
I like the hat-throwing. It would be good if there were ever more bizarre and creative outcomes, like the Simpson's intro. :D I love your videos, Mr. Crispin - it would be awesome if they were a bit more frequent, though.
Dave has been a long time supporter of the channel and so his opinions are welcomed. Taking the general consensus however, it appears the hat trick will stay although I will of course continue to monitor popular opinion.
It may take 30 years but this'll be the most well-engineered model locomotive the world have ever seen. It's a shame you will run it as all those perfectly made surfaces and components will invariably be ruined through wear!
Welcome back. I know your cylinder blocks are fully machined but shouldn't you be aligning the slide bars with the bores rather than the outside geometry?
Hot diggity dog!! He's back on the locomotive....been waiting a long time for this day!! I even left work early...lol. Great to see you Mr. Crispin. Cheers!!
Great to see you back in the workshop, and making progress on the cylinders, always worth watching and enjoy both your dedication to accuracy and practical solutions along the way.
Wonderful stuff! I’m at a very similar point in my own locomotive and you’ve inspired me to pin the back heads and slide bars for better repeatability on assembly. It remains to be seen if there will be room in the smaller scale, but I shall try.
Rookie machinist here. Wondering if a shouldered bolt would help for the slide locations? Or is it that the bolt and threads are "loose" and the dowel pin is needed for repeatable accuracy? Great video as always.
thanks for taking time to post more of you very fine work.
show me a man that never makes a cods and I will show you the one that has never made anything.
When the world needed him most, he posted again... Thanks Mr. Crispin. 👍
Always good to be paying attention to what you are doing. It paid off in catching that pesky moving parts.
Those cylinder assemblies are beautifully made.
Good evening Mr Crispin 🤠 always a pleasure watching your videos 👍🏻
Pleasure to watch you again, Mr. Crispin. And such an elegant reference to the comment section 😊
I'm glad to see yo back. I very much enjoy your videos.
Masterful display, Mr Crispin! Good to see the hat skills aae on a par with the consummate hand skills.
hello mr crispin, just dropped in to say thank you for the videos and to wish you some happy holidays
Always nice to see and enjoy a new Crispin video. Hopefully things have calmed down at RR and you will have more time fun projects.
Great to see you back Crispin. Gives me an excuse to stick the headphones on while the other half is watching a movie on the tellybox. Rather looking forward to watching this one.
Fabulous work as usual and some great tips. We all make errors, thanks for the reminder to triple check everything!
Welcome back, you have been missed greatly👍🏻
Welcome back Mr Crispin. And who hasn't remembered to tighten the vice at least once in their career.
Great that you continue with the locomotive. I've waited for that a long time.
The Master is back and very great full for the time you give to make this media.
Wow, the precision needed for this is amazing. I would have thought a .001 would be no big deal. Look forward to the next video.
Happy to see you posting again!
Coming along nicely. Liked the recap tips, but for me another great take-away was leaving on some extra material for a true up operation later. Can't wait for the next video on this build.
Thankyou for picking the loco build up again. I do like the process and how you explain it. Have a great day....
Mr. Crispen is a master! This was a great tutorial of how to work in sub 1000nths precision. It points out the importance of having a surface plate and knowing how to use it. I, by the way, am very far from having even close to Mr. Crispen's skills. I am still using dial calipers much of the time! Ha. Ha.
High praise!
It became a rare pleasure to watch new videos on your channel. I wouldn't refuse to see new ones more frequently.
Great to have you back. Wonderful to be back in the workshop with you.
Are you going to do an interview with your NRM Tutor again? I could listen to him speak about engineering for hours.
Impressive accuracy.
Good to see you alive, Mr.Crispin!:) greetings from Poland.
Been a couple of years of waiting, but well worth it.
Good to see you back, especially on yhe locomotive!
Mr CRISPIN
Great to see you back working on the loco.
Bfn
Back on the Loco. Good to see you Mr.!
Yes!
He’s back!
My head was big when I was two too (also). Lovely work as usual.
Jolly good video Old Chap! Good to see you back on the "air". I like your dedication to precision. KOKO!
Great to see you back with another video....There is a lot of fiddly jiggery involved in this process for sure.
Well I never thought I’d see the day a Mr crispin rr video would happen
G’day From Tasmania it’s good to see you again those cylinder blocks are a real credit to you they are truly beautiful the way you have machined them and the slide bars. Kind regards John
Always looking forward to a new video. Made my evening tonight! Respect from across the pond.
GREAT to see you back. Hello from Brisbane, Australia!
Nice work mister. Getting closer. Your work looks great. This loco is going to be something very nice
Nice to see you back Crispin. The last time was at Mach 2024. Excellent work as usual, and nice recovery on the slight error. Looking forward to the next stage of the build. Take care. ATB Nobby
Glad you’re back on the build! I look forward to next weeks episode 😉
Wonderful to see you’ve got back onto the Locomotive Sir and one mustn’t forget Sherry oclock goes afterwards indeed, A delight and joy to watch and I presume you’ve taken my advice on making tea Sir , kindest regards Jefferson and the new position is going well so far , I await more marvels and advancements on the locomotive side .
Nice to see you back , those Kerry super 8 pillar/ bench drills are stupendous .
What an absolute treat! Thank you Mr. Crispin. Fascinating, informative, and enjoyable.
Always heartening to see progress on the engine build, gives me hope I'll finish my own!
Wow! I’d almost forgotten about your locomotive build 🤔🙂👍🇳🇱
How dare you!!! 😂
As always, I love your approach to these videos. I miss working precision metal as I am slugging my way through a new timber frame shop and moving machines. Cant wait to get back at it. Until then, its videos like these that satisfy ones machine addiction. Keep up the good work.
Woohoo! Caught it quickly!
Never underestimate the value of the Mk-1 eyeball. ⭐🙂👍
Retired computer programmer here. Many IBM utility programs have names that start with IEB. Well proven over time, IEBIBALL remains a superb debug tool. ;>D
Delightful use of the surface table Mr. Crispin .......Mesmerising !
Glad to see you back in the workshop. I hope your schooling went well and all is good at RR.
Nice video, and I like your going through the potential miss drilled hole scenario. I'm puzzled about one detail. I can see how you can assemble the slide bars with the recessed bolt installed and then installing the dowels through the bars followed by the bolts, but how will you disassemble them if needed? The flush dowel needs to be extracted before you can remove the bars from under the recessed bolt.
Hmm yes I'm puzzling over that one now!
@@MrCrispinEnterprises Are you able to drill them in the center for a smaller diameter extractor screw?
Excellent video and look forward to the next one
Good progress and very enjoyable to watch, well done!!
The colour of your brothers teeth with that brush!!
Look forward to the next one. All the best
I have only recently come across your workshop videos. Excellent and extremely instructive. I notice you have a Kerry bench mounted pillar drill. I have a floor standing version. Can I ask you a favour. When you have a moment, please can you take a photo of the inside of the top cover. I am missing the internals completely, bar two pieces of steel plate attached to the top of the cover. I have a very similar looking milling machine, a Pripen from Switzerland, and a Colchester Student that desperately needs its' 3 jaw chuck overhauling. Your video on grinding the chuck jaws was excellent.
Holy s**t! He's back!
👍🏻 always enjoy watching your masterful craftsmanship.
Why is a good practice to minimumly load a test indicator?
Thanks for sharing!
I'd have said at least 0.05mm or 0.002"
Great to see another informative video on 5 inch loco building. Greetings from Bribie Island near Brisbane Australia.
Thank you Mr Crispin. Worth waiting for an excellent instructional video.
Welcome back always seem to learn something each time I watch your videos. Take care.
he is back !!!
Thanks for a great video. I learn something new each time 😊
Very nice to see you again.
Always enjoy your work. Keep up the videos I always learn something.
Fascinating Mr.C., I enjoyed your explanation of the precision setups and the tiny adjustments to make it perfect and keep it that way. It seems a lot simpler at the end, and I wonder how I would have approached this problem with ny lesser experience etc. A truly fine job and fitment, cheers!
Always good to watch Mr C.
Welcome back, and nice work around!
What about a polished brass/copper plate on the 4 bolts to cover the pins great video as always. Can’t wait to see the next 👍🏻
Nice idea!
Lovely job!
Good show 😊😊😊
Well done Cris!
Just subbed today, brilliant video, well explained, look forward to more!👍
Thanks for sharing
Glad to see you back again Mr Crispin!
But the trolls are going to have a go at you for not lifting the file :-)
Nobody's mentioned it actually. Does that mean you're the troll?
Cool braces.
Thank you!
Forgot to tighten the vise? Never happened to me... well...
hahaa - i was just wondering about this project. another great video, thank you!
Welcome back.
3:57 - By now, you have X- and Y- axis data.
11:17 - On my 'oriental' (main-land or Tiawan, dunno) mill, it took some real 'fiddly' engineering to make it fit, but after some 9 months of (mostly off) effort, it got an X- and Y-axis DRO for not a lot of money, and I no longer count revolutions to return to zero.
26:34 - That's the reason machining optical parts accurately are so difficult: Even if you're machining a 12" long surface, the optic is reading perhaps hundreds of yards off.
General: As a punk kid of 12 or so, the father of a friend allowed me to 'keep him company' (pester him) in the process of machining the parts for a 3-1/4" (?- MANY years ago) gauge Atlantic (4-4-2), thereby beginning to teach me how to make chips on a lathe, milling attachment for the lathe, and shaper. Two years later, he allowed me to drive the thing with the instruction that you NEVER LET THE WATER LEVEL FALL BELOW THAT LINE! (I didn't). Later auto hot-rodding didn't hurt, but that WWI flat-belt (babbit-bearing) lathe made it clear that the resultant part was caused be the indian, not the arrow.
Good to see your brothers toothbrush featuring again….
Most interesting. Don’t the build notes give advice re the positioning of cover screws? Thanks for video!
It's the suspenders... That add to the suspense !😮
That has an entirely different meaning on this side of the pond ................... Don't encourage him please.
Yes here we call them braces
suspenders = braces garter belt = suspenders sweater = jumper jumper = sleeveless dress worn with a blouse ... US/UK differences in word usage can be problematic. Thankfully, precise measurements, either Metric or Imperial, are anything but problematic.
... nice ...
Mr Crispin your doing it again, at 4-00 your trying to eye ball it & your 80 microns out before using indicator, just put the spirit level on it,then clock it as you say, you won't be far out if any, ( I take it your machine is level) enjoy your videos always looking forward to a new one, from Coventry 🇬🇧👍.
Well remembered
Great exercise in setting up and a small brain fart but all is well Mr Crispin.👍👍
Mr C., wouldn’t the prototype have used studs and nuts to hold the cylinder end covers on ?, and might that not be the way forward, in this case ?
Good to see you back !
Kind regards,
Steve A.
That's a very good point I'll so some research
Nice FP1 you have there. I'm a proud owner of one myself! I'm here living in Buffalo NY and need to find a way to lock the spindle so i can use the power feeds to indicate parts without it running and turning my dial indicator,any ideas would be greatly appreciated! And if you have figured out a way to hook up a rpm sensor to the spindle wound be great! Love watching your vids with the fp1, i learn something new everyday!!!
nice jb.
👍
Now there is a man well older than his actual age
👍😎
Got there in the end Crispin. Now I have said this before but here it is again, RETIRE the hat throwing lark, been going on too long now, it's Old Hat 🙂 it has run the course. Time for a new gimmik if you still want to do one. Regards from Australia.
I like the hat-throwing. It would be good if there were ever more bizarre and creative outcomes, like the Simpson's intro. :D I love your videos, Mr. Crispin - it would be awesome if they were a bit more frequent, though.
Blasphemy!
It's almost as much a part of the channel as Mr Crispin himself.
You can remove neither it, nor his brother's toothbrush!
I disagree with the hat throwing comment. It has become your trademark. Don't let one curmudgeon dissuade you from continuing with it.
Keep throwing the hat Mr C.
Dave has been a long time supporter of the channel and so his opinions are welcomed. Taking the general consensus however, it appears the hat trick will stay although I will of course continue to monitor popular opinion.
It may take 30 years but this'll be the most well-engineered model locomotive the world have ever seen.
It's a shame you will run it as all those perfectly made surfaces and components will invariably be ruined through wear!
Are you going to be able to get a wrench (with > 60° of motion) on the captive bolt? You might need to drill it and use a tiny pin spanner.
Good idea. At the moment I've just gone down the route of removing as little material as possible so I'll see how it works out.
Seems your always close to the Z height limit on that Deckel …. Is their no option for a raising block perhaps?
Good to see your back anyhow.
Not sure on that one but yes it gets close.
Mr crispin just a thought but if the bolt which fouls the cylinders is on the inside I would countersink and put a flush bolt
Welcome back. I know your cylinder blocks are fully machined but shouldn't you be aligning the slide bars with the bores rather than the outside geometry?
Yes I should have mentioned that the two faces I used to align the slide bars are the two faces that the bores were machined to.
Should selling uneven parallels be illegal ? If I bought a set could I adjust them myself.