The MOST Effective Way to Soundproof any Room
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- Опубликовано: 12 май 2023
- Today I'm building a soundproof room using Sonopan and ordinary pink fiberglass insulation. This is ideal for a home office, a music studio, a bedroom or a theater room. Cheers! Be sure to leave your questions and comments below. For important links CLICK SHOW MORE ⬇⬇⬇⬇⬇⬇⬇⬇⬇⬇⬇⬇⬇⬇⬇⬇⬇
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Хобби
Great video to watch at 3 A.M.
Literally me rn☠️
Loads of Tips and Tricks! Thank you, Jeff!
Awesome detail. I need to do this in my townhome with my shared walls.
Great Job n well done.
Thank you very much.
Jeff, You are knowledgeable and not afraid of hard work. I would guess it doesn't suck to be you. :)
He's actually a fucking idiot. He's doing this all wrong. I can't believe people are stupid enough to believe him.
Very informative. Great job
Great job. Learned a ton and 1/2
9:00 Great tip. Really opened my eyes
Awesome video thanks
Get yourself a center scriber for woodworking, or make one. It’s essentially a piece of material (plastic, aluminum or wood) with a hole in the centre for your pencil lead and a peg on each end. You pivot it on the edge of the board you want to find the centre for so that the pegs pinch the board. Your hole is now centred on the board. Stick your lead in there and slide the scriber, giving you a perfect centre line.
Despite my silly profile name, I'm a physicist and have been an acoustic researcher/consultant since 1996, guest lecturer to 3rd year University architecture students for 6 years, court-approved subject matter expert, state government authorised auditor and my business consults to architects on acoustic design. There are many things right about Jeff's build here but one major problem: the Sonopan. These products have decent noise reduction coefficient (NRC to reduce reverberant build-up within the space) but generally poor sound transmission loss (STL, for use as a mass barrier). Sonopan is 224kg/m^3 compared to 615kg/m^3 for fire rated gyprock (Aussie for "drywall").
EDIT: The sono product here has the same STC rating as a sheet of 13mm drywall.
In this build, more MASS (weight, not density) will have been achieved had the Sonopan been additional drywall sheeting. I would advise retaining the existing drywall as a base to build upon, but admit it is satisfying watching my go-to DIY advisor smash a hammer through a wall. Adding battens, insulation infill and a final layer of drywall would not have been acoustically inferior to Jeff's far more complicated and, might I say, expensive build. Modern downlights that do not compromise acoustic integrity are readily available.
As the lady sang ... "It's all about that bass, no treble". To silence noisy insects just close a thin glass window, but to silence a subwoofer you need bricks (with alternatives beyond the scope of a YT comment that nobody will read!).
The high NRC of the Sonopan is negated by covering it with drywall, making the Sonopan just expensive additional cavity insulation (Jeff was spot-on with his early comments about cost/benefit of cavity insulation). OK, it's more than "just" additional insulation since is IS a bit of extra mass and also a partial mechanical decoupler/damper for the drywall.
In reverse (drywall then Sonopan facing the interior of the space) the combined STC is the same (same mass either way) but the exposed Sonopan would reduce the internal reverberant field by about 3-4 dB at the wall/ceiling surfaces, thereby effectively increasing the system STL by this amount as perceived in adjoining rooms. It would also improve the acoustics of the space. "Boomy" hard rooms are fantastic for Yo-yo Ma and his cello, not so great for anything else. (Aside: classic old churches are really "echoey". This has a benefit. Who wants to sing hymns in an outside congregation when you're lousy and the person next to you is a good singer? Solution: reverb! Washed out reverb increases total volume, masks adjoining voices (and yours), encourages shy singers (aka most people) to sing, makes them happier and the offering plate gets fuller when it is passed around. Of all the tall stories one could make up, this isn't one.)
Would the Sonopan look bad exposed to the room? Probably (aka, I don't care), but as I told the architecture students, acousticians are largely blind and architects are largely deaf!
I have a job tomorrow in which pink noise will be played through a loudspeaker and measured in the source room and adjoining rooms with my spectrum analysers so I can certify the acoustic performance across the standard third-octave frequency range 50Hz - 5kHz in a new high-rise apartment development. It would be interesting to test Jeff's space then rip off the Sonopan and drywall, reverse them and re-test. Yeah, like that's gonna happen :)
EDIT: Wet wipes are $2. "Baby wipes" are $4. Same with acoustic products. You throw in the word "acoustic" and you can double your price. For example, a group from my professional association had a major manufacturer in Australia change the advertising for their "acoustic" plasterboard since it had an identical STL spectrum to their cheaper, 3mm thicker standard product. After my first 5 years studying the test data sheets from suppliers of acoustic products I have essentially never recommended an acoustic product for over 15 years unless a client (or their starry-eyed architect!) really wanted it, since in 99% of cases the desired result can be achieved with standard construction materials and possibly a few novel installation methods.
I could go on and on as though I'm in an echo chamber ... which by the way can be fixed by having the Sonopan facing into the space rather than sheeting over it ... but I think that'll do for now.
PS. I really like that sliding cavity door (I'm currently converting a wall diving two flats in my recently purchased 100-year-old timber house to turn it back into a rambling home and Jeff's door is awesome!) but if I were reviewing it for an architect for inclusion in a noise-rated wall ... totally different story!
so basically even distribution of the sound waves by the design of the sonopan is being blocked by the flat drywall. ...true....usually tho....studios add more soundproofing outside the sheetrock by placing foam soundproofing in specific arrangements on the wall to help redistribute the soundwaves ..but then its just as ya said....makin the sonpan behin the sheetrock extra insulation.
@@jamesLescobar Yes, the drywall is stopping the absorption provided by the sonopan. I design acoustic spaces for audio and voice recording and you're on the right track ... you have to soak out the sound in the space depending as specific requirements.
Thanks for the insight.
That leaves me with my original question unanswered still. What would you suggest then, for a home, with drywall finish?
Can you provide a few examples of assemblies that would work?
If you can do then based on cost and results, that would be GREATLY appreciated.
I (and many others, I'm sure) would like to know what a good, great, excellent assembly would be like, and the related cost.
Thanks for sharing. It's always great having people with lots of experience chime in
@@jamesLescobar As usual there seems to be some confusion in the comments between sound transmission loss (i.e. keeping sound energy from traversing the boundary between spaces) and room acoustics (i.e. controlling sound energy as it bounces around within a space). The two are related and have some interaction but are generally distinct areas of interest.
Sonopan's website is absolutely brimming with fluffy marketing BS but from what I can tell its primary use is as a dampening layer between drywall and framing, a role usually filled by hat channel and isolation clips. It doesn't have the raw mass to be as good a barrier as 5/8" drywall, and it doesn't seem to be useful as a surface treatment, but it could conceivably help as a low-cost decoupling layer in a properly-designed partition assembly.
@@helmanfrow I agree entirely on the possible uses for this product and how it doesn't match the marketing. As per my post, 25+ years as an acoustic scientist have taught me a little bit about marketing hype vs reality.
Finished a room but paid a drywall crew to do the taping and mudding. I asked them if they sanded and they said no, pros don't need to sand. They did a fantastic job. They went on to explain to me that in the trade if you're seen sanding, you're not considered a pro. Takes longer. They also prefer the mesh tape over the paper tape. Found them on Angie's list, they had a 5 star review from over 100 customers. So, I dunno, seems legit to me and seen 1st hand it all done with no sanding. They used a quick set mud and a wet sponge at times to blend and feather.
Thanks for mentioning the dry wall feed gun tool. 27:00 I was wondering about that. Was wondering what you thought about it versus price.
you are incredibly amazing !
Great videos . I am building a Home Theater in my basement three walls of that area or exterior walls, cement block and one wall opens up into the rest of the basement. Do I need to soundproof the cement sided walls as well appreciate your input. Great work on the videos.
The crime scene has been tampered with! Now what? Haha great video very informative. Great work!🎉
Jeff, I have a constructive question for you. Why go through all that work to soundproof that room correctly. Only to put in a french door that probably negates all that work. Its solid wood and has next to zero soundproofing.
he sound proofed the pocket doors. there’s a video on it
Thanks
Cheers Johan!
What are the cheapest ways to sound-proof windows? Is it necessary to pay for double-pane or triple-pane glass? Can plexiglass work for mass to save money if you’re not obsessed with window quality?
You can DIY something with plexiglass or Lexan, but it can be tedious. I used a company called Indow to make me a soundproof insert for a window at my studio- they’re custom fit 1/2” sheets of Lexan with a rubber gasket seal. Works great! There’s other companies out there that sell similar products. Either way it’s going to be way cheaper than putting in a premade triple pane window.
Crazy seeing you here, Tay! Hope it helps
The other reply is a good one, if you still need the window to be a window for visual and lighting purposes but not ventilation. If you are only concerned about noise, fully board it over. Here in Australia, most aluminium frames can accept glazing up to 8.5mm single laminate. Retro-fitting is not cheap though. It will reduce noise transmission by around 5-6 dB and give better low-frequency improvement than the separate plexiglass insert mentioned above, which will perform slightly better at mid to high frequencies which means 7-9 dB improvement for "average" noise sources.
If you have a deep-enough window well and you need isolation only when you're recording or mixing (and you have easy access to the window) then you might be able to build a "plug" which friction-fits into the window casing and has a flange on top which sits flush to the wall around the trim.
A similar option is to construct an interior shutter that acts much in the same way but operates on a hinge and can be opened and closed.
@@helmanfrow That's a great idea.
@@simpletonballsack Thanks. Pretty sure I learned about this in an issue of Recording Engineer and Producer from 30 years ago ;).
How wood you sound proof 2nd floor bedroom with noise coming from road, would you take off exterior vinyl siding and install a board of some sort and re-hang the siding or tackle from the interior?
hey jeff, can you make a video on sanding floors PLEASE!!!
Hi Jeff what do u recomand for floor airborn noise sound proofing since i coud not find any video in your channel that u talk about thx
Question for my own project would powder nailing that subfloor system down work ok or do you know of problems it would cause
I usually start my holes in hardwood with an awl or centerpunch, as if I was drilling metal.
Just wondering if you need to strap the joists with 1x3 before putting up the sonopan. Could you put the Sonopan up (screwed into the joists) then strap it with the 2x3's?
what is the best alternative to the sonopan for people in the USA?
What's the best primer to hide drywall seams? Whenever I make fixes using drywall compound I always feel like I can still see the drywall seams through the paint.
I did an attic conversion and have so far framed up the floor and walls… with that, there is no insulation from the lower level which is the ceiling to the floor of the conversion… I am wanting to make a studio but have gotten stuck on soundproofing… I have only seen to double drywall and green glue… I’m just wondering should I spray foam the whole room combined with fiberglass insulation insulation board and double the drywall? Or which combination would work best? Thanks I’m advance
Can I use r-30 instead of r-20 for soundproofing? Found an amazing deal on r30 left over from a construction project
I think I’m going to try boxing around pot lights with ProRox SL 960 Rockwool board (1 inch), since I already have some. I don’t want to go in double strapping or even strapping in this portion of my shop since I’m dealing with an eight foot ceilings. Above this is an enclosed mezzanine that will be office/back up living quarters. I want real pot lights so I can use very good 95 CRI bulbs with great R9 ratings…can’t find that in the little puck lights. Other than a few runs of 4-6 inch ducts, the rest of I joist will get 8.5 inches of Rockwool with couple of inches of air gap (required for under subfloor hydronic anyway, but I think it will help with sound proofing).
I am not looking for perfection here. It’s a shop…just taking the edge away from a planner or grinder running straight down below or below and to the open bay side.
Interesting
Nice chatting with you, JON!
Is the green board more effective than resilient channel?
Mass loaded vinyl and channels no longer needed? Is it the same quality of sound proofing with these materials?
Hello love your Videos I learnd a lot thank you, if you have the chance would this work for building a Recording studio or would you go about it differently?
He mentioned that use case.
How warm is this room going to be compared to the rest of the house!? By sealing all the air gaps, I would think it’s going to be 50º (that’s really warm in Celsius, right???) in there! (I may come back to delete this if it’s covered later in the video.)
I’m doing plywood flooring in an attic conversion so how do I soundproof from below
How do you install hardboard on a vinylsiding double wide home . The siding is cracking off after 20 yrs.
Jeff is the real life Red Green (iykyk) except instead of using duct tape to fix everything, he uses an Olfa knife.
Good info.
However, that was a costly project to install uninsulated pocket doors, or did I miss something?
Exelente trabajo!!
Does this work for keeping you from hearing noisy neighbors?
My brick house from the 40s is sound proof by default. You can blast the surround sound to the max, go outside, and barely hear if anything. Great for me and my neighbors.
Bricks = mass = sound transmission reduction!
He's trying to reduce sound from room to room inside the house though...
cool
If I remove dry wall on a particular wall to see what's behind it... trying to find wood to hang my framed artwork on...many of them. Stud finder not too helpful because seems not many studs/boards??? Wall is not an outside wall... bathroom hardware is on bathroom outside wall .. shouldn't be on wall backside - that I am wanting to expose. Hope this makes sense. Thx. RUclips waynesville NC 🇺🇸 veteran
Wool is 70kg/m^3 vs fibreglass which is 40kg/m^3. If mass is important in sound insulation wool has more of it.
Good pick-up but Insulation mass is insignificant compared to panel mass. Insulation provides no sound transmission reduction as a mass element, only cavity absorption (or room absorption if on exposed surfaces). Walls with and without insulation differ in transmission loss by up to a maxim um of 6 dB. If you put in 70kg or 40kg insulation, they will both give about 4-5 of that maximum 6 dB with the difference being negligible UNLESS you're chasing 1 dB in every part of the system and then every dB matters.
By installing the drywall on the studs, on top of the sonopan ... does this not create the "triple leaf" effect? which apparently is not good for sound transfer reduction ?
indeed
You can also put squares of foam along the corners of the finished room to catch the sound and prevent reverberation.
Not "prevent" just "reduce a bit".
Dj in need of Sound Proof Sound Proof Sound Proof in a 150 year old converted attic . 🎉
Did you release this video already?
Interesting video and overall project, but I'm afraid the final test doesn't tell much about how soundproof that home theater room really is for its purpose. Soundproofing a room to be able to listen to a small portable stereo without hearing it too much from the room above it is easy. Preventing the transmission of the large amount of bass frequencies that serious home theater subwoofers can produce when watching a blockbuster movie at theater sound level is another story, and I'd be very surprised if it'd work really well enough in these conditions. Also, another big problem that I can see is that, unless you add a ton of acoustic treatment later on (which doesn't seem to be the case judging by the video's thumbnail and the already smallish finished room), the finished room is going to sound terrible like it is, very resonant and agressive (as you can hear when he speaks in it, only much worse when playing at theater level), as it only has hard reflective surfaces (painted drywall on the walls and ceiling).
I know the die-hard soundproofing fans tend to go for a certain method on the forums, I know the hat channels are a huge theme there, and also building a room within a room. but I just installed the sonopan in my 4-plex for a basement apartment and was really impressed by what just one layer of sonopan and 1 layer of 5/8 drywall with resilient channelson the ceiling has done to reduce the noise. Granted, I was more going for voices, I can still hear footsteps because I have steel beams holding up the first floor, so it would be almost impossible to decouple the whole unit from that type of noise. But, I like how he did a complete layer of the sonopan (so sealed from upstairs and surrounding rooms) then framed inside the sonopan, which in essence decouples the room. The only add-on I would put for the noise transmission between downstairs and upstairs is maybe some hat channels betweenhis sonopan and his drywall on ceiling, but then he wouldn't have anywhere to attach his wire for pot lights (he used 2x3 for strapping instead of hat channels) and he could have added second layer of drywall with green glue in between for the ceiling. But I bet the soundproofing is pretty good, anyways he has a vent in there so that will emit the noise to the rest of the house - not too much you can do there. As for the hard surfaces, super easy to manage by installing a large area rug and some decorative sound panels on the walls like a normal movie theatre, to dial in the sound quality. This isn't a pro home theatre but it's pretty good IMO.
Sound proof with echo ?
Hey Jeff, I’m sound proofing my bdsm dungeon but I don’t want to lose out on valuable height, could I do this but with 1x3s on the ceiling instead?
😂
😂
Sonpan layer in the material sandwich as an acoustic break, Is the bottom of the door running in a channel to cover the gap? Door sweep on a pocket door?
Could use a 10" knife if tape isn't an option. Keep a rag handy to prevent build up. Work clean. Slow is fast.
Anyone have a link to the plastic tape thing to wrap around the electrical box? I had never seen it before and would be nice to use in my basement.
I think it's called a "putty pad" and one can buy them from either Home Depot or Lowes
It serves no acoustic purpose, maybe he needs it for fire code?
Still no Sonopan in the USA. ☹️ Anyone know a similar alternative? Somebody down here must be making a knock off.
Put a rubber floor mat and top it with a heavy carpet, Hang ultra-thick blanket to the walls and door, Add a heavy furniture like a sofa, and if you can install couple panels to the ceiling. No one will hear you making out. *Have an emergency panic button just in case😂
Im wanting to build a guitar room under the house,.
I'll gladly repeat this until it sinks in: The primary function of fluffy insulation is to help dampen resonances within the wall cavity. There's no reasonable amount of fluff that you can stuff into a wall cavity that will contribute a meaningful amount of mass to the assembly. That's the job of the drywall or other solid wall panel.
Exactly correct.
NOOOOOOO! Not another Sonopan project! Jeff, you're killing us down here in the "lower 50". Great video, though, regardless.
I have never seen so much grunting since I saw the movie Caligula.
💙
All the serial killers will appreciate this 🤣🤣
Chloroform is cheaper.
@@coldjello8436 😶
It was shared on my local Reddit
I'm pretty loud eating my cinnamon Life. So crunchy.
Yes i will. Lol
I did this 😂 Ruined my drywall...the plastic sweated through so had to rip up the wall and start over...
Is this a re-load? I feel like I've watched this before.
I just posted the same question.
2nd issue regarding 150 year old attic remodel is keeping loft cool in summer and warm in the winter. Send me an answer music man .
Why not create a green bored door. 53:19 and let the green bored stuff the floor.
Just for the record, "soundproof" is largely a misnomer. In residential and light commercial construction there is essentially NO WAY to eliminate all sound transmission at all frequencies. Completely-isolated, double-wall assemblies can do a pretty good job but even they begin to fail at higher SPLs and lower frequencies, especially if adjoining spaces share a floor system or foundation. There is *always* a compromise and the best you can hope for on any budget is "good enough". This is physics, not pessimism.
Dumbshit comment. Everyone knows that "soundproof" doesn't literally mean that a nuclear bomb could go off on the other side of it and no sound would travel through. For fuck's sake, people know that "soundproofing" a room is just about silencing MOST sounds they'd be likely to deal with day to day.
I declare this video "Tickety boo"
This is not gonna cut it.
i need more soundproofing for the hostage I have in the basement.
36:04 The "sound quality" in the room will change when you put up drywall. Sonopan is not an acoustical treatment. At least not if it gets covered by a wall panel.
Let's not confuse sound transmission loss and room acoustics.
Jeff, your heart is in the right place but you're using imprecise language and confusing your concepts.
What about SonopanX ????
It's an underlay for flooring that reduces impact noise. Far less effective for airborne noise than a sheet of drywall.
All that work and not to use RC1 channel to decouple is a shame. Also, running duct work (steel no less) into the room so you have a sound tube to the rest of the house was a big missed opportunity. He should have made a torturous path duct with Ducboard to reduce noice transmission to the rest of the house.
Why not use rock wall
You guys CAN NOT tell me he doesn’t sound like Matt Walsh!
We talked a lot about screws
My ass ciao. Can't wait no mo'.
forbidden fruit roll up
The sound is coming from the window don't you think
The beginning tho 😅
This guy puts in so much effort to soundproof the walls and seal all the gaps… and then just hangs a wooden door… with no seal at all… lmao
best sound proof i ever had was saw dust
How did you use the sawdust?
Huh? Was it in your ears?
@@yeeaahBUDDY ha, ya, i get ya, funny, maybe it was
@@rebokfleetfoot How did you use sawdust for noise control?
Shave off the grey, keep the stache you will thank me
This is hardly soundproofing. You need mechanical decoupling for any sort of real results. It does not matter how much insulation or sonopan you put up, if you have the drywall coupled to the studs/rafters/joists then it's going to transmit damn near everthing below 150hz like you had no insulation at all. You've just maybe killed off a few db of high frequencies with this method. Subwoofer will go straight though and might even be louder than before.
How do i know? I've spent 2 years trying to soundproof a house next to a busy road, and no amount of drywall, insulation, or green glue has helped like decoupling clips or a separate decoupled wall. Structural transmission is the largest hurdle to sound reduction. Don't waste your time or money unless you are implementing decoupling, especially if you're already down at the studs
This will be a significant improvement over standard construction but these materials could have been better utilised to enhance transmission loss in the lower frequencies. It sounds like you're well aware that Jeff's test noise source has zero low-frequency so the system can't be tested across the full range. I'd like to have a look at it with my ISO pink noise and spectrum analysers.
The purpose of this video isn't about showing the most optimal solution. It is showing the most practical, affordable, DIY solution, which is what Jeff's channel is all about.
@@joseph7105 That's what I also love about Jeff's channel. I'm right now replacing front windows in my house, and have watched Jeff's video on this. That being said, there are better ways even just to utilise the materials Jeff uses here.
When it comes to acoustics I've been something of a hobbyist/expert layperson for about 20 years. I take issue with the use of the term "soundproof" as used in these kids of videos because it's usually thrown around without any context. A conversation of sound transmission loss must always focus on _how many decibels_ and _at what frequencies._ The type of construction always stems from there. Like you said, this assembly will be less effective in the bass frequencies because of insufficient mechanical decoupling.
Craftsman not DEWALT?!!!
This new sim sucks. The downloads are so slow to load up. Geeeeeeez my grammar sucks too. Too exhausted maybe. My brain cells just workin' 10% maybe LOL.
if you r house neeeds soundproofing your house is just a little too small firef lame flame were the business hundred million diollars
What??
Fanduel: What's the plus/minus for serial killers/rapists this video has helped? LMAO... My guess is out of 66k views. About 50 people have some insidious reasons they watched this.
13:04 thats what she said 😅
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