Regarding the vacuum pump, replacing the o-ring under the flat cover at the rear is a good idea too. That area is known to leak oil as well. After market kits are available on line (about $15) which contain three o-rings, the one you showed, the flat cover o-ring I just mentioned, and one for the check valve too. That is a smaller o-ring but it is important. If the o-ring is worn the check valve will rattle. tick-tick-tick. Nice video BTW, Hayabusafalcon.
I just order the whole set they have on ECS Tuning including the Vacuum pump seal. I can't wait to change it on my Audi B7 A4. I'm sure I'm gonna be cursing a lot since it's a very tight space behind the motor.
I'm in the process of doing that right now... However I didn't have any silicone grease as I put the heater hoses in the fire wall or the water pipe on the engine side... However I haven't finished putting everything back together yet because I'm still waiting for the flange .. Do you think it would be worth it to take the hose off the pipe and put some silicone grease on it... It's in there pretty snug and should hold, but as said earlier I was just wondering if I should take it out and out some grease in it ..... I'm also afraid that if I take it off now, It might damage the seal...
Heater core hose part numbers: Upper Hose is Mfg Part #: 8E1819373R (Part #: 8E1819373R has been replaced with Part #: CHH0168P) Lower hose is Mfg Part #: 8E1819371T (Part #: 8E1819371T has been replaced with Part #: CHR0651) Heater Core Hose Grommet: Mfg Part#: 8E0819699A
Taking off the intake, wouldn't make a big difference. Since most of the work is behind the engine block. The only thing that helped me, that he didn't show is removing the metal coolant line. If you get the whole coolant flange kit, you will be cutting or taking that hose off anyway. It gives you a little extra room
I think you are talking about the bracket that holds the ground wire?? If so, then yes....because if you don't put it back on, then you will have some electrical issues
@@SoHos74it’s kind of next to the coolant flange I think it just holds the fuel line although when you said it might cause electrical issues but idk if that is what’s causing that
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This is exactly what I was looking for !! Thank you 👍🏾 I couldn't figure out where my coolant was leaking from but I see it now.
Regarding the vacuum pump, replacing the o-ring under the flat cover at the rear is a good idea too. That area is known to leak oil as well. After market kits are available on line (about $15) which contain three o-rings, the one you showed, the flat cover o-ring I just mentioned, and one for the check valve too. That is a smaller o-ring but it is important. If the o-ring is worn the check valve will rattle. tick-tick-tick. Nice video BTW, Hayabusafalcon.
Do you know where I can locate that part in particular? What is it called?
My car is a little less of a shit box thanks to you
and for that, I am eternally grateful.
Great video! I learned something !!
Great. Video I’m planning to do that in my girlfriends car thanks 🙏🏽
This is super helpful! However, do you have any of the part numbers for the hoses, gaskets etc? Thanks
AmaZing video !!!
He loves that silicone grease
Thanks. Amzing you never had air lock with replacing coolant
I just order the whole set they have on ECS Tuning including the Vacuum pump seal. I can't wait to change it on my Audi B7 A4. I'm sure I'm gonna be cursing a lot since it's a very tight space behind the motor.
I'm in the process of doing that right now... However I didn't have any silicone grease as I put the heater hoses in the fire wall or the water pipe on the engine side...
However I haven't finished putting everything back together yet because I'm still waiting for the flange ..
Do you think it would be worth it to take the hose off the pipe and put some silicone grease on it...
It's in there pretty snug and should hold, but as said earlier I was just wondering if I should take it out and out some grease in it .....
I'm also afraid that if I take it off now, It might damage the seal...
Heater core hose part numbers:
Upper Hose is Mfg Part #: 8E1819373R (Part #: 8E1819373R has been replaced with Part #: CHH0168P)
Lower hose is Mfg Part #: 8E1819371T (Part #: 8E1819371T has been replaced with Part #: CHR0651)
Heater Core Hose Grommet: Mfg Part#: 8E0819699A
If your really good. This takes about an hour and just remove the vacuum pump. Just make sure you have the right part.
Epc light is on and the Q5 2010, is shaking . Do you think its the flange ???
Is this the cause of temp not reading over 70 degrees?
I’m trying to change my cooling sensor because the fans ain’t spinning
How to replace thermostat on the a3 1.2 2013 5 door
Have you got part numbers? Struggling to find some hoses for mine
I got mine from ECS tuning, just put in the make/model of your car and they will get you the right hoses
can you take off intake man for better access?
Taking off the intake, wouldn't make a big difference. Since most of the work is behind the engine block. The only thing that helped me, that he didn't show is removing the metal coolant line. If you get the whole coolant flange kit, you will be cutting or taking that hose off anyway. It gives you a little extra room
Do you have a shop ?
I just changed the hoses and my leak is even worse on the bottom hose… idk what to do now
Did you use silicon grease?
I have a 2.0 fsi MKV GTI and my heater exchange hides do not look anything like that.... What gives?
Is that bracket or piece of metal that came off the bottom screw necessary??
I think you are talking about the bracket that holds the ground wire?? If so, then yes....because if you don't put it back on, then you will have some electrical issues
@@SoHos74it’s kind of next to the coolant flange I think it just holds the fuel line although when you said it might cause electrical issues but idk if that is what’s causing that
@214Oscar their is another bracket that is for one of the vacuum lines that goes behind the engine...