@@vogman you’re right, I missed some of the even smaller details like the teeth. I rewatched and looked closely at the fine details. If you recast them, you should show a close up of that and at a normal view, like next to your hand maybe next to a coin. May help show how much detail is really there. Even then, somethings are just hard to get across... 👍
Geoff your channel is getting soooooo Big! I love it my man. As always beautiful work. As always, you are costing me money to try basically everything you play with. Seems like yesterday you sent out to have your stuff 3D printed for you. WOW.
When you cast your piece put it in an enclosed chamber with a tea candle lit and seal it up asap. The tea candle will suck all the oxygen out and burn out and then when the flask is at quenching temperature pull it out and that should help there be less oxidation.
With the lump that came out of the crucible, i doubt you overheated the metal. It's more likely you didn't get a clean burnout and the porosity was caused by a few little pieces of ash/goop/gack/schmutz stuck to the inside.
"I'll never learn..." Bwahahaha words out of my own mouth!! Except the hard way... of course! Intermission = puppies!!!! Another couple of 'bespoke' pieces by VOG. Like van Gogh et al... be worth a fortune in say a hundred years or so!! Ok. Hopefully well before then! Great honest 'quick look' video as usual Geoff. I'm hoping our fortunes change soon and I can start casting again. When I do I will be looking at your completely honest reviews to make my decision on what to buy. I have to say that the dark resin seems to show detail much better than the lighter ones. Also, I don't print resin 'things'. They are either functional or decorative, but are generally small due to my FDM/SLA printer bed size. Therefore when I start casting again it will probably be using castable resin or wax. Anything 'functional' I usually use one of my FDM printers. So I will be very interested which manufacturer brings out the most accurate settings for the various printers. Oh... and not a guesstimate either. I've said it before and I'll say it again... the company that brings out accurate casting settings for good casting resin will make a fortune$$$. Think of all the hobbyist casters out there on planet earth... Well done again mate. (That dark resin really looks good...)
I'd love to see a side by side example with this and a regular (ie. affordable) wax-like resin! I'm plannning getting into sculpting and casting pendants, using detailed designs sculpted in zbrush, so quality detail will be an absolute must. I was planning on using regular wax-like resin on amazon but this video makes me worry that the detail might not be good enough.
Doesn't Rio Grande have recommended temperatures for their casting grain? I've ended up with the same setup as you, an Arbe Casting machine and a Cousins melting furnace! I'm definitely not a 3D printer kind of person though, all about the hand carving! ;)
@@vogman Huh, rubbish product or rubbish settings maybe? It seems a shame after that great print to end up with a substandard casting! :( I started out with a homemade vacuum chamber and a homemade furnace. I still use the furnace for larger stuff, but it is too much fuss for small jewellery things...
@@ractorc91 i used a small furnace for burn out and not once got a clean 100% perfect cast. I looked ups some information and i think the burnout furnace is essentiall. I bought the paragon SC3. It will get to my by sept i hope
I need to find a good cheap castable resin. Never played with investment casting, but i have 25lbs of investment plaster and am itching to try. Can't bring myself to spend that kind of money on something that is probably going to go half to waste as I learn though. I've melted plenty of metal and done a lot of greensand casting, but would really like to try more detailed things like rings. A lot of castable resins i see are in the $80-100 USD range :(
Resinworks are reluctant to let me have any, which is a shame... BUT I have recently received a bottle from a company with a very similar formula. I'll be testing and sharing soon 😁😁😁
These defect are not from the alloy but from the broken parts of the investemt mold. You can see that there are missed details in the desing(eg. letters). These parts may be broken during burnout while resin is expanding or burning too quickly. Also these kind of defect can occur wwhile pouring the metal - if the sprues are placed incorectly for the model being casted - molten metal enters the mold too fast and may rip small delicate parts of the investement. These broken pieces of the investment appear somewhere alse on the surface (or sligtly below) of the piece. So it may be the sprue placement, burnout schedule for this resin/model or investment. You can try addin 1-2% of boric acid to your investment to make it harder so it will be more resistand to this kind of defects. While doing that keep in mind that it will be more difficult to remove the investemnt after casting - flask quenching doesnt remove it but rather making if softer so then you have to use some kind of tool to remove it(knife, flat screwdriver etc). Secondly adding boric acid shortens the investment mixing time - so you have to finish investing 1-2min faster than usual or use cold water to extend mixing time.
I appreciate that you've taken the time to experiment with all of the castable resins! I'm getting decent with my printing, but haven't been very active with it. And haven't been able to get to casting yet. I've been using my time to find the best CAD software to get and stick with while being frugal. I've been using an educational license of Autodesk Inventor for years and I don't want to pay a grand per year at least for it... lol so far I'm impressed with Alibre Atom3D. $150-200 and very easy. Check it out if you're ever in need of something else. Also you might like Argentium Silver if you're looking for a really nice medium priced precious easy casting metal. Really interesting thermal properties.
Thanks for the CAD tips. As for AS, I've heard a great deal about it. Supposedly it casts more easily, holds better detail, is less prone to defects, can be re-used a number of times without spoiling the finish, polishes better, and much more. In many ways it's an ideal precious metal for the amateur. Unfortunately it's very expensive... not gold money, but double and then some more than Sterling, which I already find expensive 😁
@@vogman yeah unfortunately it's not a great price. Almost doubled for me with all the stimulus money going around... But it's good to use for permanent castings. I made my wife's engagement ring and wedding band out of it. I designed the engagement ring in Inventor and used my Anet E12 fdm printer to print in Machinable Wax Print2Cast filament. It worked surprisingly well. Maybe I'll email you a picture of the final result later. Btw that filament is about £45 for about a kilo. Low density so it goes a long way. Bit of a pain to print but it works amazing. It even has an odd smell like strawberries or something, but doesn't smell like much while printing.
Another great video buddy, inspired to do a bit of casting myself, but is there anyway to burnout without a kiln for small samples you are aware of? Also love those good puppers!
I second these sentiments! I think I have watched most of your casting videos, but would be keen to see advice on the bare minimum you need to get into casting.
Burnout is the keep to investment casting, whether it's wax or resin. The plaster is special stuff that becomes porous after baking, letting a vacuum pass through it. I have made a lot of equipment myself to help keep the costs down including a burnout oven, and these are covered in an overview of the subject here - ruclips.net/video/qxj5eUkAFUI/видео.html My electric furnace was a little over the top with a fancy lift mechanism, but without that it still works easily and cheaply. I hope this helps. 😁😁😁
@@vogman I know a fair bit about investment casting (actually worked at goldstar powders for a while!), just wondered if there was a cheap and cheerful cheat. Thanks for the link though!
Do you think it will work well with the phrozen sonic mini 4K? And what settings do you recommend? Great vid btw you’ve really inspired me to cast using 3D printers:)
It will work, Leo, using the exactly same settings I used here - as shown on powerresins.com But I think a little adjustment will improve things even further 😁
As always Geoff - perfectly done. I really enjoy you making the jewerly things - But I just do not have so much patience that you have. As we spoke before - I just do the figure stuff - figures just do not need to be perfect in every micrometer :) First video will become published on Sunday (Valentines Day) I made a figure for my wife in whole brass - would be great if you could check that out :)
How has your experience with shrinkage been with Power Resins? I've read on their website that BURN shrinks 3%-5% after printing and washing, how much of a difference does this make with ring sizes? Also, have you tried the ZERO resin by any chance? Thanks.
@@vogman Thank you! I've been looking into it, by the math it seems that rings may actually drop a size or size and half even. Perhaps when you test ZERO, maybe you could compare it to BURN and see if there is any noticiable size differences? I stumbled onto your channel and I've really learned a lot about 3D printing, great content and a great channel!
Fusion 360. Honestly it's very good. Look at my Judge Dredd ring a couple of videos ago. That was F360. You need to register and then apply for the student license (unless you plan to make lots of money commercially). You then get free access. Excellent CAD 😁
@@vogman Yes it does become harder but not rock hard. The bulk of the plaster still comes out when quenched. A hammer definitely helps but I've always thought the small amount of extra work was worth the higher detail level obtained. My theory was the boric acid makes a smoother surface where it touches the part so it takes on the parts texture more easily.
I wonder why the metal becomes dark, I used to cast gold and never submerge the flak in water, I let it cool down by itself and brake the investment and gold came out in natural color, give it a shot
Those porosities should have been caused by broken plaster pieces. I can see many small negative details are broken. Overheating metal doesn't usually make this kind of defect.
I've tried to use this with my egloo mars 1 and 2 but it never works... I've followed the settings on the powercast website but it never works ive tried like 5 times with primer please hellppp
I'm all for advancement in resins, but good lord that stuff's pricey! For that kind of dough, in a production use anyway, I would think printing a regular resin, molding it and casting via lost wax copies you'd come out way ahead on costs. Cool to see something new nonetheless.
A lot of pros still mould and wax because of the costs. But one-off pieces are more economical given the costs of moulding. Hopefully as popularity increases, prices will drop 😁
See I’m a welder by trade the problem isn’t nothing but oxygen when pouring the metal. In order to get a firm cast you need a heat induction chamber. I’m thinking argon and a closed tight jig is needed because when welding oxygen creates porosity. I know most HIC have an oxygen valve flow to assist with a perfect cast. Also those ranges from $10,000+. Jus my 2cents
They're Rottweilers. I've included a snippet in my videos over the past 4 weeks. It's incredible to see how they've grown. If all goes well, this time next week one of those will be coming home with me 😁😁😁
The resin looks great! I would love to try this on my channel. Pups should have had their tails docked at an earlier age. Those tails in a tight setting wreck havoc.
Those little skull and crossbones on the ring were really cool. Nice detail!
Thank John. Did you notice the teeth? Very good detail 😁
@@vogman you’re right, I missed some of the even smaller details like the teeth. I rewatched and looked closely at the fine details.
If you recast them, you should show a close up of that and at a normal view, like next to your hand maybe next to a coin. May help show how much detail is really there. Even then, somethings are just hard to get across... 👍
I knew subscribing to your channel was a good idea. You have the best hardware reviews so far and the plate priming idea WAS BRILLIANT! Thank you!
Thanks for the sub! And glad to help 😁😁😁
Geoff your channel is getting soooooo Big! I love it my man. As always beautiful work. As always, you are costing me money to try basically everything you play with. Seems like yesterday you sent out to have your stuff 3D printed for you. WOW.
Thanks Mo. All hobbies cost money... that's how they get us 😁😁😁😁😁
Awesome video and review, the puppies are getting so big!!👍😁
Yes they are! Only a week to go for me 😁😁😁
When you cast your piece put it in an enclosed chamber with a tea candle lit and seal it up asap. The tea candle will suck all the oxygen out and burn out and then when the flask is at quenching temperature pull it out and that should help there be less oxidation.
An interesting idea. Thanks for sharing 😁😁😁
The candle could also introduce soot. I don't know if that would be a problem?
I bought a can of burn in the summer using your code
Hope you enjoyed it!
As always a good honest review
Much appreciated 😁😁😁
LLLegend, thank you for the awesome videos and discount code.
i have several questions 1) what investment did u use? 2) what type of water did u use to mix investment? 3) what was your burn out cycle?
With the lump that came out of the crucible, i doubt you overheated the metal. It's more likely you didn't get a clean burnout and the porosity was caused by a few little pieces of ash/goop/gack/schmutz stuck to the inside.
"I'll never learn..." Bwahahaha words out of my own mouth!! Except the hard way... of course!
Intermission = puppies!!!!
Another couple of 'bespoke' pieces by VOG. Like van Gogh et al... be worth a fortune in say a hundred years or so!! Ok. Hopefully well before then!
Great honest 'quick look' video as usual Geoff. I'm hoping our fortunes change soon and I can start casting again. When I do I will be looking at your completely honest reviews to make my decision on what to buy. I have to say that the dark resin seems to show detail much better than the lighter ones.
Also, I don't print resin 'things'. They are either functional or decorative, but are generally small due to my FDM/SLA printer bed size. Therefore when I start casting again it will probably be using castable resin or wax. Anything 'functional' I usually use one of my FDM printers. So I will be very interested which manufacturer brings out the most accurate settings for the various printers. Oh... and not a guesstimate either.
I've said it before and I'll say it again... the company that brings out accurate casting settings for good casting resin will make a fortune$$$. Think of all the hobbyist casters out there on planet earth...
Well done again mate. (That dark resin really looks good...)
Great to hear from you Dan. Take care buddy 😁😁😁
Hellow, is there any possibility you can say us about casting regim of this polymer in silver?
I'd love to see a side by side example with this and a regular (ie. affordable) wax-like resin!
I'm plannning getting into sculpting and casting pendants, using detailed designs sculpted in zbrush, so quality detail will be an absolute must. I was planning on using regular wax-like resin on amazon but this video makes me worry that the detail might not be good enough.
I'm always looking for cheaper resins that work well. Keep watching 😁😁😁
Doesn't Rio Grande have recommended temperatures for their casting grain? I've ended up with the same setup as you, an Arbe Casting machine and a Cousins melting furnace! I'm definitely not a 3D printer kind of person though, all about the hand carving! ;)
Actually I did use the Riogrande settings... I'd urge folks doing the same to start at the bottom end rather than the top 😁
@@vogman Huh, rubbish product or rubbish settings maybe? It seems a shame after that great print to end up with a substandard casting! :( I started out with a homemade vacuum chamber and a homemade furnace. I still use the furnace for larger stuff, but it is too much fuss for small jewellery things...
@@ractorc91 i used a small furnace for burn out and not once got a clean 100% perfect cast. I looked ups some information and i think the burnout furnace is essentiall. I bought the paragon SC3. It will get to my by sept i hope
Try another casting with this bronze. I curious if you can get the porosity out
I will, don't worry 😁😁😁
I need to find a good cheap castable resin. Never played with investment casting, but i have 25lbs of investment plaster and am itching to try. Can't bring myself to spend that kind of money on something that is probably going to go half to waste as I learn though. I've melted plenty of metal and done a lot of greensand casting, but would really like to try more detailed things like rings. A lot of castable resins i see are in the $80-100 USD range :(
I'm still searching Keith. When I find one, I'll let you know 😊
Best resin reviews on RUclips, hands down. Subbed and comment'd for algorhythm.
Could you please review next resinworks CCW EasyCast HD Violet?
Resinworks are reluctant to let me have any, which is a shame... BUT I have recently received a bottle from a company with a very similar formula. I'll be testing and sharing soon 😁😁😁
@@vogman I am interested in knowing how you know the formula is similar? Cant wait for the review
great video as always !
Glad you enjoyed!
Which investment material is used to cast it
Good enough!
Many thanks 😁😁😁
These defect are not from the alloy but from the broken parts of the investemt mold. You can see that there are missed details in the desing(eg. letters). These parts may be broken during burnout while resin is expanding or burning too quickly. Also these kind of defect can occur wwhile pouring the metal - if the sprues are placed incorectly for the model being casted - molten metal enters the mold too fast and may rip small delicate parts of the investement. These broken pieces of the investment appear somewhere alse on the surface (or sligtly below) of the piece.
So it may be the sprue placement, burnout schedule for this resin/model or investment. You can try addin 1-2% of boric acid to your investment to make it harder so it will be more resistand to this kind of defects. While doing that keep in mind that it will be more difficult to remove the investemnt after casting - flask quenching doesnt remove it but rather making if softer so then you have to use some kind of tool to remove it(knife, flat screwdriver etc). Secondly adding boric acid shortens the investment mixing time - so you have to finish investing 1-2min faster than usual or use cold water to extend mixing time.
Thanks for sharing!
Thanks for watching!
Trying to get into plaster casting any tip for getting a budget vac chamber
I made a lot of my own equipment to keep costs down. Have a look at this video. It should help... ruclips.net/video/qxj5eUkAFUI/видео.html
I have 3 Rottweilers 2 of them come from our stud who's sire was an import to the states from Siberia.
Three? Nice. I guess breaking into your house would be tricky 😁😁😁
I appreciate that you've taken the time to experiment with all of the castable resins! I'm getting decent with my printing, but haven't been very active with it. And haven't been able to get to casting yet. I've been using my time to find the best CAD software to get and stick with while being frugal. I've been using an educational license of Autodesk Inventor for years and I don't want to pay a grand per year at least for it... lol so far I'm impressed with Alibre Atom3D. $150-200 and very easy. Check it out if you're ever in need of something else. Also you might like Argentium Silver if you're looking for a really nice medium priced precious easy casting metal. Really interesting thermal properties.
Thanks for the CAD tips.
As for AS, I've heard a great deal about it. Supposedly it casts more easily, holds better detail, is less prone to defects, can be re-used a number of times without spoiling the finish, polishes better, and much more. In many ways it's an ideal precious metal for the amateur. Unfortunately it's very expensive... not gold money, but double and then some more than Sterling, which I already find expensive 😁
@@vogman yeah unfortunately it's not a great price. Almost doubled for me with all the stimulus money going around... But it's good to use for permanent castings. I made my wife's engagement ring and wedding band out of it. I designed the engagement ring in Inventor and used my Anet E12 fdm printer to print in Machinable Wax Print2Cast filament. It worked surprisingly well. Maybe I'll email you a picture of the final result later. Btw that filament is about £45 for about a kilo. Low density so it goes a long way. Bit of a pain to print but it works amazing. It even has an odd smell like strawberries or something, but doesn't smell like much while printing.
Cool
Another great video buddy, inspired to do a bit of casting myself, but is there anyway to burnout without a kiln for small samples you are aware of? Also love those good puppers!
I second these sentiments! I think I have watched most of your casting videos, but would be keen to see advice on the bare minimum you need to get into casting.
Burnout is the keep to investment casting, whether it's wax or resin. The plaster is special stuff that becomes porous after baking, letting a vacuum pass through it.
I have made a lot of equipment myself to help keep the costs down including a burnout oven, and these are covered in an overview of the subject here - ruclips.net/video/qxj5eUkAFUI/видео.html
My electric furnace was a little over the top with a fancy lift mechanism, but without that it still works easily and cheaply.
I hope this helps. 😁😁😁
😊
@@vogman I know a fair bit about investment casting (actually worked at goldstar powders for a while!), just wondered if there was a cheap and cheerful cheat. Thanks for the link though!
Ah! Goldstar. I know them well 😁😁😁
Porosity the Bain of a casters existence
Too true 😁
Do you think it will work well with the phrozen sonic mini 4K? And what settings do you recommend? Great vid btw you’ve really inspired me to cast using 3D printers:)
It will work, Leo, using the exactly same settings I used here - as shown on powerresins.com
But I think a little adjustment will improve things even further 😁
@@vogman thank you so much:)
Oh now you wanna use the pickling process. Haha. I’m using the onion. Lol
😂
As always Geoff - perfectly done. I really enjoy you making the jewerly things - But I just do not have so much patience that you have.
As we spoke before - I just do the figure stuff - figures just do not need to be perfect in every micrometer :)
First video will become published on Sunday (Valentines Day) I made a figure for my wife in whole brass - would be great if you could check that out :)
How has your experience with shrinkage been with Power Resins? I've read on their website that BURN shrinks 3%-5% after printing and washing, how much of a difference does this make with ring sizes? Also, have you tried the ZERO resin by any chance? Thanks.
Confession... I never noticed, sorry. BUT I do have a bottle of Zero to test... coming soon.
@@vogman Thank you! I've been looking into it, by the math it seems that rings may actually drop a size or size and half even. Perhaps when you test ZERO, maybe you could compare it to BURN and see if there is any noticiable size differences? I stumbled onto your channel and I've really learned a lot about 3D printing, great content and a great channel!
What 3D design program do you use or recommend. I am looking for one as I want to make a wax seal stamp.
Fusion 360. Honestly it's very good. Look at my Judge Dredd ring a couple of videos ago. That was F360.
You need to register and then apply for the student license (unless you plan to make lots of money commercially). You then get free access. Excellent CAD 😁
@@vogman thank you so much. I'm new to this stuff. Not tech person. I do have a resin printer, photon zero
4:32 pour starts liquid, then a lump falls out of the crucible. That lump does not look like a good sign.
The best,your amazing sir
You're very kind 😁😁😁
You should experiment with adding 1% boric acid by weight to your plaster. It can give higher detail.
I've heard of that... but it apparently hardens the plaster so it needs hammering apart...?
@@vogman Yes it does become harder but not rock hard. The bulk of the plaster still comes out when quenched. A hammer definitely helps but I've always thought the small amount of extra work was worth the higher detail level obtained. My theory was the boric acid makes a smoother surface where it touches the part so it takes on the parts texture more easily.
I wonder why the metal becomes dark, I used to cast gold and never submerge the flak in water, I let it cool down by itself and brake the investment and gold came out in natural color, give it a shot
Some metals oxidise, like silicon bronze and silver - it's a natural process. Others like gold or aluminium don't. 😁
You didn't heat the bronze enough. I use the same bronze and it casts at 1850-1900
тааак. ждём продолжения.
Do you know of any cheap resin max. 30-40€ for 500g that is still good for casting?
No yet Jack, but I'm looking buddy 😁😁😁😁
Those porosities should have been caused by broken plaster pieces. I can see many small negative details are broken. Overheating metal doesn't usually make this kind of defect.
I've tried to use this with my egloo mars 1 and 2 but it never works... I've followed the settings on the powercast website but it never works ive tried like 5 times with primer please hellppp
Thought it was a LYNX Black advert at first glance 😂
Lynx is a lot cheaper 😄
A lot cheaper and smells better too 😁😁😁
@@vogman haha i bet!
I'm all for advancement in resins, but good lord that stuff's pricey!
For that kind of dough, in a production use anyway, I would think printing a regular resin, molding it and casting via lost wax copies you'd come out way ahead on costs.
Cool to see something new nonetheless.
A lot of pros still mould and wax because of the costs. But one-off pieces are more economical given the costs of moulding.
Hopefully as popularity increases, prices will drop 😁
See I’m a welder by trade the problem isn’t nothing but oxygen when pouring the metal. In order to get a firm cast you need a heat induction chamber. I’m thinking argon and a closed tight jig is needed because when welding oxygen creates porosity. I know most HIC have an oxygen valve flow to assist with a perfect cast. Also those ranges from $10,000+. Jus my 2cents
When it comes to resin, burning AWAY the oxygen is said to be important... 😁
@@vogman lol yu got it
Bro what is the breed of thease dogs that you shown in the last
They're Rottweilers. I've included a snippet in my videos over the past 4 weeks. It's incredible to see how they've grown. If all goes well, this time next week one of those will be coming home with me 😁😁😁
It’s been a while since you posted a video
I've been posting regularly Peter. Hit that bell my friend to get notified. Otherwise, just look out for Fridays 😁😁😁
@@vogman I have the bell on and the notifications set to all, RUclips is doing something screwy
Actually no it’s just my memory, I’ve watched all your videos, OOPS
That's all that matters 😁😁😁😁
The resin looks great! I would love to try this on my channel.
Pups should have had their tails docked at an earlier age. Those tails in a tight setting wreck havoc.
Docking tails is illegal in the UK John, so we just have to live with tail-lashing 😁😁😁
The details are beautiful, but the castability is not good, so it can only be used for the original rubber mold.
The castability of the resin shouldn't really be questioned here. I think it was a temperature issue with the metal
Would you cast a few items for me
Sorry Nate, I get more requests than I have time available...
Hello :)
Hey buddy 😁
Great videos but I can't stand the BGM.
the music is iconic, if he ever changed it I might have to unsub
Alas I'm no composer... I did sing on one of my videos and strangely never got requests for more 😁😁😁😁
Eeeek! Don't even think about it 😢😢😢