Watches so many videos I’ve reached the starter couldn’t pull it out due to that 10 or 12 on the back of the starter you were very detailed to help thanks so much for that and taking the time in such weather
My T&C 2014 Touring, I had to pull out the front engine mount & catalytic converter covers to have more room to remove and reinstall the starter, but I did not have to remove the bottom engine bracket. Further, the two positive wires should be installed before attaching the starter back to the engine to avoid complications later. Thank you for your post. BTW! Take a picture of the catalytic converter covers before taking it out so you know how it looks when reinstalling it later. Prior to tighten the starter bolts, make sure the catalytic converter covers are back in also, then tighten the starter. I had to loosen the starter to put back the covers since it was very tight in there. The covers couldnt fit in if the starter is tigh
Thank you for taking the time and trouble to give us this great tutorial! Especially in cold weather. Much appreciated! I'm going to replace my starter now. 🙂
After doing this job a few times I learned you do not need to take off sub frame. There is plenty of room to remove the engine mount and then access the starter
I want to live in the world where you served in the military and call sign was "Dress Right". My Alternaotor just started to spin the pulley. Loosely spinning at best. Also, issue with fuel pump relay to the TIPM. Jumped in a fuse between accessory power and fuel pump to save buying a new TIPM Board for 400$ Incase you were owner figured those are 2 main issues that could really ruin a day. Allot of videos out on the TIPM issue already.
Yes, loosening and partially removing the starter creates more room to access the wires. It's a tight spot nonetheless, and being upside down in the cold didn't help either! Thanks for watching. I hope the video helped you with your project. Dean.
@@deanvandress4693 It helped definitely. But the first one we put in didn't work for more than half a day so we had the "pleasure" of putting another one in the next day. LOL
Great VId. I watched 3 or 4 vids on this topic each one added valuable info, Including how to access wires...1) remove the 2 bolts the SM is now free to move, 2) push it in and then pull it our as far as you can this gives easy access to the wires the wires so you can 3) remove the nut. Reverse the order for install as shown in this vid ruclips.net/video/RJcgntxHLWo/видео.html&ab_channel=GasDieselGarage at 8:12
Thanks for watching RD. You are right about those wires! They are difficult to put back into place. Start watching around 15:40 on the video for that information. Have a great day, Dean.
Watches so many videos I’ve reached the starter couldn’t pull it out due to that 10 or 12 on the back of the starter you were very detailed to help thanks so much for that and taking the time in such weather
And the testing part 👍🫡
Thank you. I’m glad it helped. Please consider subscribing to my channel. It helps me reach my 1000 goal.
My T&C 2014 Touring, I had to pull out the front engine mount & catalytic converter covers to have more room to remove and reinstall the starter, but I did not have to remove the bottom engine bracket. Further, the two positive wires should be installed before attaching the starter back to the engine to avoid complications later. Thank you for your post. BTW! Take a picture of the catalytic converter covers before taking it out so you know how it looks when reinstalling it later. Prior to tighten the starter bolts, make sure the catalytic converter covers are back in also, then tighten the starter. I had to loosen the starter to put back the covers since it was very tight in there. The covers couldnt fit in if the starter is tigh
You are right about that! It is very tight in there.
Fantastic video! Thank you for sharing how to test!
Thank you for taking the time and trouble to give us this great tutorial! Especially in cold weather. Much appreciated! I'm going to replace my starter now. 🙂
Glad it helped. Thanks for watching. Dean.
After doing this job a few times I learned you do not need to take off sub frame. There is plenty of room to remove the engine mount and then access the starter
Curious if you have a lift when doing this job?
@deanvandress4693 No I used a jack and jack stands similar to what you did
you have some major skills. that is crazy tight up in there. bravo!@@tfeusner2189
Thanks😊 it's really not too bad once you get your head under there where you can see
Thank you saved me so much time I was about to drop the exhaust lol
@@jamesperez2294 yes sir. Glad it helped you!
thanks great video. how did you determine the battery did not have enough amps?
When I replaced the battery, it fixed the issue. It showed the proper amount of volts, but it didn’t have the cranking capacity unfortunately.
I want to live in the world where you served in the military and call sign was "Dress Right".
My Alternaotor just started to spin the pulley. Loosely spinning at best.
Also, issue with fuel pump relay to the TIPM. Jumped in a fuse between accessory power and fuel pump to save buying a new TIPM Board for 400$
Incase you were owner figured those are 2 main issues that could really ruin a day. Allot of videos out on the TIPM issue already.
Glad you liked the video Eric. Have a great holiday season. Dean.
can't you undo the wires after sliding the starter out of position and vice versa going back in?
Yes, loosening and partially removing the starter creates more room to access the wires. It's a tight spot nonetheless, and being upside down in the cold didn't help either! Thanks for watching. I hope the video helped you with your project. Dean.
@@deanvandress4693 It helped definitely. But the first one we put in didn't work for more than half a day so we had the "pleasure" of putting another one in the next day. LOL
Most of the associated bolts are torqued to 41 Ft/Lbs (I'll be doing one in the morning at 27 degrees...)
Thank you! Love the video!
Thanks Joe. Have a great day. Dean.
man i wanted to see how you get it out man
I have a full video of getting it out on my channel.
Great VId. I watched 3 or 4 vids on this topic each one added valuable info, Including how to access wires...1) remove the 2 bolts the SM is now free to move, 2) push it in and then pull it our as far as you can this gives easy access to the wires the wires so you can 3) remove the nut. Reverse the order for install as shown in this vid ruclips.net/video/RJcgntxHLWo/видео.html&ab_channel=GasDieselGarage at 8:12
You would think that engineers would put parts like this in an easily accessible area, right? Thanks for watching. Dean.
So....it wasn't the starter?
haha... nope. it turns out it was just the battery. it had the volts but not the amps, so i thought it was the starter, but it turns out i was wrong.
Dude doesn't show the hardest step of it all. How to remove the wires in such a tight spot lol.
Thanks for watching RD. You are right about those wires! They are difficult to put back into place. Start watching around 15:40 on the video for that information. Have a great day, Dean.