Improve your Redpoint Success Rate with This Technique + FA 32/8b+
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- Опубликовано: 28 сен 2024
- The book I love reading to my daughter amzn.to/3SaTSEx
Such a simple little trick, but oh so effective. I can't believe it took me this long to work out. I'll for sure be using it into the future. Can't wait for more projects :).
Camera gear used:
Canon EOS R amzn.to/3FrWSGH
Canon L 16-35mm amzn.to/37qkBuf
Rode Video Micro amzn.to/3sjPF6e
Sony ZV1 amzn.to/3Pi7WL5
GoPro Hero 8 black amzn.to/3yn8SHG
GoPro hero 5 black
Gorilla pod 3k tripod amzn.to/3LTR3nC
Gorilla pod 1k tripod amzn.to/3ygZhSW
Manfrotto Compact Lightweight tripod amzn.to/3wf0HdQ
Thank you:
The North Face Australia
Tenaya
Black Diamond Australia
Clif Bar
Chalk Cartel
Awesome Woodys
Thrive Nutrition and Dietetics
Australian Climbing podcast: www.baffledays...
![Yailin La Mas Viral, @kreizyk.official - Dale 2 (Remix) [Video Oficial]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/JaYHBzgqz94/mqdefault.jpg)
One of the most underrated climbing channels on youtube for sure
Haha thank you. I’m psyched you’re enjoying it 😀. I’m enjoying making them
Just found this RUclips after listening to the lattice pod, as a psyched climber this is the content I wanna see every day. Great channel keep it up
thanks mate, i'm psyched you're here enjoying it :). definitely keen to keep making videos
I had a bad memory for beta for the first two years of climbing outdoors. I noticed an experienced climber I knew always seemed to know all the detailed beta from every climb even months or years after he had climbed them. I also noticed that he would always intentionally go over the beta in his head, looking up at the route, after he finished an attempt. He would often get a hard route second go after doing that. So I started trying to practice doing this very intentional approach to going over the beta in my head for every route I climbed. It was hard at first, but after a few weeks I found that I just did it naturally and remembering beta has become much much easier for me.
oooo I like that. Will have to give it a try as well. I did notice when I was training for the Olympics, my route reading memory shot up for that time. I was practicing a lot with doing a 6 min observation then having to go onsight the route. I would try to visualise every route I got on during a session including warm ups and have to call out my intended beta to my belayer before leaving the ground
Big congrats on the FA! I was looking forward to seeing more about that project. Keep the awesome vids coming!
I'm keen to share the little updates as the season progresses on that project :). Keen to keep on making the videos. I've missed making them!
I just wanted to thank you for your earlier video about setting and tracking goals.
After watching the video I set meself the goal of climbing 30 red tape (6b-6c+) boulders in my gym this year, which seemed like a very optimistic goal, since I only climbing 4 or 5 in that grade before and they really had to fit my style. But with some focused training I've already completely smashed my goal and climbed 35 boulders in the grade range and I feel like I have the potential to break into a few 7a's before the years end.
Most important of all I'm having a really good time bouldering, which your idea definitely had an impact on.
So, thank you Tom!
Far out mate, that’s HUGE!! Congrats. Must have felt pretty awesome when you were on that roll, knocking down red tape after red tape. Keep on enjoying the ride and good luck on the next step, your going to have a great base behind you to push off 😀✌️
I've tried this with bouldering but honestly didn't find it useful. There's not that many moves so my brain holds onto the information pretty well. The harder the project the more my brain obsesses over the moves between sessions (even if sessions are months apart), so if I need to remember beta it's generally not a problem.
Definitely sounds like a great idea for sport climbing though.
Your video on goal setting was brilliant, I used the "52 new problems at X grade in one year" format for myself. It's been an amazing year so far! Another process goal I like is to set a minimum number of sessions to put into a project at your limit, over a certain time period. This makes "working sessions" more appealing, because success isn't dictated by the send.
Bouldering can be an easier time. Way less to remember, as you say.
I’m psyched you found some value in the 52 video. That’s awesome to hear! And I really like your idea of number of sessions. Finding the incremental wins and making a bit of a game of it can be a great way to get away from ‘anything other than sending is failing.’
Nice vid Tom. Nowadays I take notes for most projects. I think it's pretty hard to make notes that are good enough to be useful if you take a while off something. However, I think just the action of writing things down in a structured way is really helpful to cement the movements. Notes are also useful for new beta ideas you come up with when away from the cliff.
PS: that feet first beta looks nuts! I did Hashish recently using front-on beta - matching that last hand hold.
Yeah the act of turning something in to the physical world is super beneficial. Feet first is the original method. I think Aurel found a 'hands first' method he liked. I never invested much on hand first method, should give it a go though. Always for trying something new
beast
Haha hardly
I have a condition called afantasia, which mean I can't picture any image in my mind - I have no 'mind's eye'. I can't picture my mom's face; I can't even picture a circle.
But my memory for beta has always been quite good. I guess the moves and holds are stored another way.
Are you able to picture the route in your mind as an image?
Wow, that's not something I've heard of. Sounds kind of scary. Interesting you can remember route beta well though. I can somewhat picture the routes, but it's generally pretty vague. More of a memory of feeling and 'vibe' than the individual details.
You should also record conditions! Humidity and temperature
Yeah I've get a seperate climbing note book I'll record the day to day stuff on. Made notes of sun/shade for boulders and cliffs for future reference as well. Super handy when it can be a long time between visits.
I use the the app called GoPro SDK, for Video comparison my fails and success. It's pretty helpful I would say. I got the idea from Udini.
Inspiration from the master analyser himself. Nice one. I'll check out the app
Sick
Definitely a cool little bit of climbing
You want to come climb in my garage or something
Gotta get my garage training wall built before I look over the fence :)
Always frothing' for more Tom knowledge! "laying down wisdom" more like!
Haha always trying to add something to it :)
I do this on the video on my current project hard. Talk out exact placements. But hard to describe which foothold etc. thinking maybe head cam in conjunction with dialogue…?
talking over video is a great option. real time beta. I've never found headcam footage to be anything other than disorientating and vomiting inducing. But that's just me. I get motion sick pretty quick. Maybe it could work though? Let me know how it goes.
love drawing the holds and numbering the moves while leaving space for notes
nice, i've seen that one before, but never tried. i should have a crack
Soooo,… just like ultrahard bouldering? :D
The route? It is a bit of boulder into boulder style. Classic blue mountains climbing
That RUclips ad thanks I’ve lost it 😂
haha :). psyched someone else thought it was funny
Nice to see around again Tom
Nice to be back. Can't wait to keep making more :)
Has Zach ever equipped a bad route?
Haha I think that depends on your definition😀
hes baaaaaaaaaaaackkkkkkkkk
And lovin’ every minute of it 🥳
Dude, when you started into how you were going to "record" yourself on the route, I literally leaned forward in anticipation, because I have my own non-standard method of "recording" myself while projecting, which has been extremely useful so far... I mount a 360 camera to my chest, which captures foot holds and full body positions in a way that a typical head-mount, or even extra-wide angle camera doesn't. It's easy to memorize hand holds, but how to get the most out of them when there are a million foot options can be very difficult to memorize... before, I would find myself flowing through a sequence on one run, then fumbling the same section on a subsequent run and wondering what I was doing differently... now I can review my footage and compare, in detail, exactly what made the difference... I'll watch it a few times the night before returning to my proj, and then truly dial it and commit the full-body flow into memory... it's been an incredible tool to capture the details that are easily lost in the moment, and then would result in a lot of time/energy going back over things.
wow, 360 camera is next level! That's pretty cool. You wouldn't be missing much with that. Reviewing the sections that do and don't work is a great tactic too. As you say, you may not feel it on the wall, but see it clear as day on the screen. 'What are my hips doing out there!?' If/when I get a 360 cam, ill have to give it a go.
@@TomOHalloranAus Obviously it will get in the way if climbing slab 🙃 but I'm working on super overhung stuff atm. Have a look at some of the clips on this account to see what it looks like... you have to unwarp it in your mind, but trust me that when you know the route, you're able to understand exactly what's going on 😁
Just watched a few. What a trip view. Looks like you’re crawling haha. Nice one!
@@TomOHalloranAus Really helping the process on my first 5.13a 😁
nice one. have fun :)
love the side camera angle....always giving us consumers quality content Tom! frothin' for more footage of the mega proj!
Very keen to get it done and share the story 😀
For some routes that I was very close to sending and I found some personal beta I write down some beta as notes. Sometimes coming back to the route after week(s) it really helpful. But sometimes I just found something else on the fly when climbing, or my beta didn't make much sense. My friends always joke about the beta bank, but it mostly works for me. I found that being the tallest and heaviest of the bunch I'm more inclined to seeking and finding personal nuances of the beta. Not exactly always beta breaks, but nuances and I write those. When I read them out loud they don't make much sense to others, but reflect my own experience on the route. They are also something very useful for creating indoor replicas. Well it's not exactly 3d canning and printing of holds, but I found the beta bank pretty useful. Thanks a lot for the video you always have some interesting comments and input.
Haha yeah being tall is going to force you to find some different beta to everyone. You can’t even check what others have done for your own memory. Beta bank sounds like a great thing. Especially as a reference for your replicas! Love your work 😀✌️
Welcome back! Great insight into ways to remember the nuances, Fortunately I have a pretty good memory for beta but also only climb alot lower grades than you 😂
Haha I wish I had your skills! It's a major crux for me
I write notes for my projects as well. I find it very useful when returning to the project. And sometimes I just read my notes and trying to remember the feeling of the moves.
Ahh cool. I like the note adding part on top of the mudmap of holds. I'll look to make one for a route :)
Recorded myself on a climb a few weeks ago and used it to help send my first 26, really cool video. Glad your back!
Nice one!! That’s awesome, congrats. Very psyched to be back 😀
@@TomOHalloranAus Thanks!
Another frothy Tom special
Can't wait to get back and be making more :)
Cool route, great climbing!
It was pretty fun to figure out :)
Great video. The 52 project is an interesting idea. Trying to figure out how to apply it to my climbing when I restart. I'm in a new country where I haven't climbed any lines, so tons of options. My top-end grade was 25 (7a) back in 2001 and I've climbed a total of 5 days since 2013. When I restart, what should be my "base" grade for a 52 project?...
If you've climbed 5 times in the last decade, I don't think there's any use at all in worrying about grades for now. Sounds like you should just do 52 climbs in general haha.
I think a variation of this could be good. As there is so much new stuff for you to do, the number of new routes is perhaps easier to get. One thing I have done in the past was try and get 150 ewbank points in a day. Ewbank system is the grading scale in Aust. So for easy maths, 150 points is 6 grade 25s (7b). You could try something like that, or perhaps climb X meters each day out? Lots of little variations. I think going with a grade could be tricky as your progress will likely be quite fast, having not climbed alot for the last years. Perhaps 6a will go from feeling hard to a warm up in a couple months. One word of warning, don't jump too hard out of the gates. You'll make no progression if you get injured. Enjoy the climb back :)
@@TomOHalloranAus Thanks for the feedback. I'm not that familiar with the Ewbank system, I grew up and did all my climbing in South Africa which has "nearly the same" grading system. 150 Ewbank points for me would probably break me but 75 could become a target after a few months.
It’s something pretty easy to play around with. Maybe 50, 60, 75 and progresses each month. Anything that makes it fun and attainable will make you want to keep at it 😀
Nice send. 👊🏼
It felt fun to put together :)
Awesome 👌 🤙
It's certainly a good bit of climbing :)