Look at this 350k miles reliable FORD www.amsoil.com/newsstand/testimonials/articles/pristine-ford-flex-tops-350-000-miles/?zo=5257753 Every car, truck and EV needs this ruclips.net/video/H_bSDqnSh90/видео.html Maintenance mistake made by diesel owners ruclips.net/video/WBOBzA56jvw/видео.html Why trucks don't come with this? ruclips.net/video/hBbzJmCHtCo/видео.html How to improve lights without cutting or drilling ruclips.net/video/K4WbM97pkmE/видео.html How to protect paint on the vehicle without wax ruclips.net/video/I1fu9TsiYBc/видео.html
500K miles on a transmission? I was at 30K and I didn't get a flush before the 4l60e lost 3-4 clutch pack. I had gone over 5K rpm a few times - so probably the drum piston seal was cracked and also the release springs couldn't handle the cavitation from the centrifuge at high rpm. So yeah it was $5K to put in a Reman. Thanks for this vid - I'll get a flush every 10K miles now.
I’ve been a mobile mechanic for 10 years never broke a bolt or seen one stripped or anything on trans. But YES change fluid every 40ish thousand miles. There is no such thing as lifetime fluid that is b.s.
I have seen them broken and stripped from people overtightening them, but I have never broken or stripped one myself. As long as a torque wrench or common sense is used when tightening the bolts, there should be no problem.
@@fastdeliveryl708 The manufacturers couldn't care less how long the transmission lasts once the car is out of warranty, but they do care about the cost of ownership calculations since people look at that when choosing a car. Do what you want, but $30 or whatever for new fluid every few years depending on how much you drive is cheap insurance if you want to keep the car for a long time.
@@fastdeliveryl708 It's up to you. If you want actual data, you can have the old fluid analyzed by companies like Blackstone Labs to see how much life is left in it and know for sure instead of guessing. Many factors such as how and where the vehicle is driven, the transmission's internal wear, which fluid is used, etc drastically affect the fluid's longevity, so accurately estimating it's condition just by mileage is impossible. If it was that simple, oil analysis labs wouldn't exist.
Straight to the point! Correct information without repeating internet myths. I am a chemist and an amateur mechanic and i must say it is rare to see someone give away the right information.
104,000 miles on the original filter in my 2019 silverado. Just today , September 9th 2023, I popped out the filter just to make sure it's not cracked. Popped it back in, topped off the 5 gts I drained with fresh fluid. I don't even need to move the heat shield to get at the fill plug anymore. I get in there with bent pliers and pop it out, insert some tuning into the hole, and fill from the engine compartment with a funnel into the tubing. Works great.
On Chevys I would change the filter they are easy to get to I have changed my transmission Filter on my 2 door OBS Tahoe many times in the Different Tahoe’s I have owned no issues.
When you pop it out, the seal is supposed to be changed. I don't honestly know if it makes a real difference but I just replace the filter whenever I drop the pan on my 4L60.
Ive got a 2010 lexus es 350 with 120000 miles and i have no clue if the trans fluid has ever been changed. These videos are giving my the confidence to change it myself. Great stuff
IF u are smart mechanically and know the exact procedure per toyota recommdendations: otherwise, let a pro do it, bcuz there's a reason the Toyota co didn't want owners touching the system while under warranty, and it's bcuz of contamination that often happens with a non pro working on the system/bolts/etc. have to keep everything super clean that touches the fluid/holes/etc
Awesome! Thank you for clarifying the differences. My old mechanic told me once before he retired...you don’t need to change the trans filter unless there is a problem (dirty and burn odor fluid) as long as you change the trans fluid regularly (drain/fill)
I agree, the problems begin when the fluid ISN'T changed regularly. But if the transmission doesn't have a drain plug on the pan as many do not, the pan has to be removed to drain the fluid anyways. And once the pan is removed, I'd personally just spend the ~$20 replacing the filter for piece of mind. If the pan had a drain plug, I'd just drop the pan, clean the magnets, and change the filter every few drain and fills. Those filters do last a while since they don't accumulate soot and other combustion byproducts like engine oil filters do, but the filter and magnets do accumulate debris over time from internal wear and I just feel better getting that crap out of the transmission from time to time.
I took my Honda CRZ to a mechanic for transmission oil change after a while my transmission was slipping when u press the excelerator it would take off after 1 or 2 seconds after And i found out he did not put the correct CVTF oil in it as it is expensive but the only one that is recommended for my car.This time after learning from your video's i changed it myself with the correct oil and now it runs great.And this vid is a good example of how we can do a lot more damage than good when changing transmission filters.
I own a 2005 Nissan Sentra 1.8 liter with 327,000 miles and I only change the fluid. I use Valvoline MAXLIFE Full synthetic ATF and never have changed the filter because you have to drop the trans valve body to get to one nut on one bolt. Just asking for more problems. You will never "Fill Up" a trans filter!!! I just changed the trans pan because it was rusted thru and leaking, replaced pan and cleaned and replaced the magnets on the new pan. I change fluid every 40,000 miles and my car runs and drives like a new one. MAINTAINANCE !!!!! Great video :)
Excellent video. I have an 08 Acura TL with 350k and the original transmission. I do a drain/fill with every other engine oil/filter change or about every 10k miles. No filter. Still shifts like new.
I do the exact same thing on my 2012 Camry. The only thing I don't like is having to pump the transmission fluid back in, I hate doing that. I found a funnel that actually fits into drain refill hole, but it's not long enough to wear I can just pour 2 bottles of tranny fluid in. I'm currently looking for some clear plastic hose or something where I can attach to the bottom of the funnel I'm using so it's extends past my wheel and I can hold upright where I can just pour 2 bottles right in.
Good video, I choose to change the filter when doing a transmission service. There is also magnetics in the pan that catches fine particles, this also need to be cleaned. Breaking pan bolts is usually done because owners fail to torque them to specifications. Many times over torquing them. These bolts don’t require anymore than about 10 ft pounds.
i did one drain and fill when i got my 06 matrix in the summer, since then everyone in the fb matrix group keeps suggesting me to change the filter but it's just a mesh screen like in your video. I will just pass and drain and fill again instead
Very good in depth lesson on transmission filters. I agree in what their function is in that they would prevent collateral damage if metal shavings or other large particle were to become free and otherwise get sucked up into the valve bodies, clutches, servos, etc.
Thank You for vidio . I just changed my filter & fluid on Rav 4 at 46, 000 miles . First time done . I was going to cut open filter but didn't . Regardless of what they say , I always remove pan & clean pan & magnets ! ! That is where the most nasty stuff is !! It's impossible to totally drain 2018 Rav 4 without removing pan . Drain bolt leaves at least a quart of dirty fluid in pan . That's redicilus . Replacing filter first time is good idea after break in .
@@repairvehicle yes and have to do about 2-3 flushes to get approx 95% of old fluid out, unless you have a machine that sucks the fluid out as the car is running, and also the converter.
Thanks, you just saved me $95 for a filter and gasket!(plus time to drop the pan) (If the filter and gasket cost up to $40 I'd do it, but I would only do it once at 200k miles)
I’m going to take your advice. I’ve got a 2010 Toyota Corolla w 206k miles. I just did it’s first drain and fill of oem transmission fluid. I’m going to drain and fill the transmission fluid again my next oil change. To try and swap out more clean fluid. Car still running great. Pretty much only done oil changes up till this point.
Nice I just had my torque converter and fluid replaced under a recall 2014 Toyota RAV4 torque converter flexing problem it was slipping between 2-3 gear I had to look up this problem and saw the recall up to 150,000k
I am close to 60000 miles with my 2020 Toyota Camry LE . I am gling to have the filter replaced , filters filter . What damage can you cause by replacing it . And switching to AMsOil Signature Series ATF . And hoping this shop would do a " passive flush " . Which I believe it is disconnecting the hoses from the transmission cooler . One hose to suck in new ATF and the other end comes out the old . Of course with engine running and this would be normal pressure .
I overtightened some of the bolts on the transmission pan on a 05 Volvo XC90 after I did a drain and fill and installed a new filter and snapped some of the bolts off when I overtightened them. I did it 3 times before I realized my mistake. I had to take the car to a professional mechanic to have those broken bolts out. A learning experience; the hard way.
Invest money into torque wrench ETORK review after 1 year of use. Additional information about 1/4, 3/8 and 1/2 torque wrench ruclips.net/video/pjfwzfgf_2I/видео.html
@@repairvehicle The sad thing is that I used a torque wrench but evidently set it at multiple times the correct setting. When the bolts snapped I thought it was the 'click'! A perfect example of a DIY Fail. But I did learn my lesson! Coincidently I'm waiting for my mechanic to let me know if the transmission drain & fill and filter will resurrect the wonky shifting on a 2012 Mini that I just picked up cheap. Aisin 6-speed.
Honda CRV ( at least older models like my 2012) has a a filter/pick up just like this one and a small one inline behind the engine ( also looks like a paper one in a metal case). both are 'non serviceable' items. I've changed the inline one at 120k miles and opened it up..it was nice and dirty. Great video!
Great advice, however, the 2001 Jeep Grand Cherokee Laredo 4.7 with the 545rfe transmission that I just did an engine swap on was previously sitting for 5+ years and everything was filthy, especially the ATF and filters. Got no other choice... this is my daughter's Jeep and I'm trying to make sure everything is done well and is reliable. Hoping for the best now tho!
Never changed the filter on my 2015 Yaris CVT, got it at 80,000m & changed the fluid at 85,000m (Now has 92,000m) with genuine Toyota FE twice in 2 weeks. It takes 2.2L each drain.
What I would like to see is you cutting open a filter from an old transmission that still works but has been neglected. If the filter media is not clogged, that would prove your point that filters do not need changing. Also, it would be interesting to know what is the oil flow (gallon per minute) going through a transmission filter.
Unfortunately, neglected transmission don't work and that's why transmission shops still in business. I found used neglected not working transmission with 130k miles for Tacoma on Craigslist for $650, trying to negotiate price but guy thinks he can sell for asking price.
Any machine that has a filter inside it oil filter transmission filter or air cleaner they were put there for the factory for a reason filter out the crap like sweeping the floor every once awhile yet a sweep the floor😂
I did my first fluid change on my 2007 Corolla ( bought new ) when it had 170 k on it. I didn't replace, only cleaned the screen filter. It had very minimal debris on it. The pan had a fine layer of debris too. I have a Camry too and will change the fluid earlier but probably wait until 150 or so to clean the filter.
Very informative video! I changed my 07 Scion tC transmission filter alongside the fluid for the first time at 176k miles. Never had done that kind of work, so it was a learning experience. Transmission shifts smoot and no problems so far after some 5k+ miles. Now I’m thinking about doing the same to my 12 tC since I hear the tranny whine when I accelerate or let go of the pedal. Bought it a few months ago and already did a drain and refill. If I do, I’ll post an update here
Put seafoam in your transmission drive it for about 30 miles and then change it it will clean it out and probably help it from slipping it's called seafoam transmission trans
I really appreciate this. mt V70 xc has 143,000. the transmission obviously has junk clogging the solinoids. I see that my filter is not the problem. I don't have a garage to work on my.car. irony have 3.200 dollars to get it changed. im stuck.!!
I have 1999 toyota tacoma v6 with 222,000 miles and never change the fluid and filter and still running good. after watching your video now have to change the fluid not the filter.
Subaru uses a spin on trans filter and the internal filter looks a lot like the screen filter that you showed in the video. On the models without the spin on filter they use a fiber element filter like the one you disassembled. They are supposed to be lifetime filters but I change them at 60K.
Lifetime means for the life of the warranty. Otherwise they should be offering lifetime warranty on transmission and they know the fluid cannot last longer than warranty time without causing significant wear.
repairvehicle I agree. I wanted to mention I just finished changing the oil in my new air compressor and replaced it with Amsoil 30/40 compressor oil. I would consider using anything else.
I came across this video as I'm searching for part numbers for my wife's 2019 Mitsubishi Mirage G4, it just hit 30k miles so I want to do the 30k service on the CVT fluid. Anyway, that Jatco CVT has a small cartridge filter with an o-ring and has a pickup filter in the sump/pan like the one you have here. Trying to find exploded parts diagrams for Mitsubishi is not easy, Toyota and Honda definitely much easier for some reason. On my 2003 Honda Odyssey, it has 176k miles in the odometer with the original transmission, apparently never failed at 60k like it's supposed to. Since I can't replace the pickup filter because it's sealed, there is a cartridge filter that's behind that battery that almost no one knows about. I did change that one at about 150k miles. Otherwise I change the fluid every other year with genuine Honda fluid and I've never had any transmission trouble and tell you what I use it for work, I have all the seats removed but I fill it up with packages, sometimes I'm not so nice and I'll do a FWD peel out from a stop, that 3.5L VTEC is sweet, don't know why they put it into a minivan. So while I've done the preventative maintenance on it I don't baby it either but there she is, still shifts like a champ.
Our 2012 G37 has 87k on it and I don't think the fluid was changed yet. I can do the fluid exchange but have always done trans services with the filter at the same time. Unless some bolts get snapped from over torquing, seems like replacing the filter makes sense at 87k. But perhaps I'll just do the fluid drain, which only gets about 1/2 the fluid anyway, as the rest is in the t. converter like you said.
I would carefully try to loosen the pan bolts. If you can get them out I would drop the pan. If the fluid isn’t black and burnt and no excessive goop on the magnet I’d do a complete fluid exchange
Very informative video. Thank you for the research and dissection of the filter. Worked on Nissan's, Toyota's , and Mercedes for over 20 years. Good advice on more frequent fluid changes. I personally see every reason to change filters more often than factory recommendations. But, as you mentioned, your driving conditions will dictate your personal maintenance schedule. Thank you again, Sincerely, JPC
@@repairvehicle Really appreciate you posting this video Sir. It really helped to understand a lot of myths when it comes to whether or not changing transmission filters is really needed. I will follow your recommendations. It just make sense everything you said 👍👍👍
Frequent fluid change will greatly extend the life of your transmission. Also, adding an auxiliary cooler with a 180 deg. thermostat will also make the fluid and transmissions to last significantly longer. It's a must if you tow with your vehicle.
@@repairvehicle Your vehicle may already have a transmissions cooler thermostat if it has an auxiliary trans. cooler, like what's found in many trucks. I'll attach a link in my next reply, in case you disabled links on your channel. I tow a large travel trailer with my 2016 4Runner. TRansmission was running hot even when not towing. I installed a large external, auxiliary cooler and a 180 degree thermostat to bypass the cooler when it's not needed. Many people will argue that a thermostat is not needed but I thinks it's a must. In cold weather, transmission oil may never reach above 100 degrees F, with a large auxiliary cooler not equipped with a thermostat. It's not good because any moisture in the system will never evaporate. A thermostat will remedy this problem and will provide cooling for your transmission when it's needed most. With the new system, transmission oil temperature in my 4Runner would slowly get to about 150 degrees and hover at around 150 to 160 degrees most of the time. I've seen it get to 168 several times when towing uphill during 90+ days. I believe that somewhat consistent temperature also contributes to transmission performance and longetivity. I use a ScanGauge II (thanks for the suggestion in one of your videos!) to monitor several parameters including my Transmission Temperature. Keep in mind that this is measured on the bottom of the oil pan. Fluid temperature at the cooler (and the thermostat) runs about 20-30 degrees hotter. Don't forget to add about a quart of trans oil to compensate for the volume in the cooler and all the hoses). Don't forget to buy some additional hose. I'd used about 10 feet but I'm very picky about small details. Install a new cooler after the existing cooler inside the radiator. Verify flow direction visually. Hot/Cold by touch method doesn't work for this. There are several "professional" videos on RUclips by Etrailer where they screwed this up and connected the cooler before the radiator. Overall, I'm very happy with the new transmission cooler. I installed it at 20k miles. No towing prior to that. Transmission fluid was already dark brown. This is at 20,000 miles of regular driving. There is NO WAY the Toyota's ATF will last 100k. I always change ATF at 15,000 miles (drain and refill).
Here is a link to the thermostat I used: www.ebay.com/itm/Derale-Transmission-Oil-Cooler-Thermostat-13011-/352193632247 . It wasn't from this particular seller though. A lot of places sell them. Hope this helps. BTW, you have a slight accent. Where from, if it's not a secret?
So, did you install aftermarket transmission thermostat on your Toyota? My Sequoia and Tundra has factory thermostat, and I don't like how it works on Sequoia. It constantly cooking fluid above 200 in hot weather and in colder weather it's around 220.
I have a second hand Camry with 204K miles. Probably still with original transmission fluids. I just purchased transmission filter and gasket so I can replace it while changing the oil.
You know your stuff I change the filters just cuz they are there plus it gives me time to wipe down the pan get rid of all the metal filings clean the magnet where the fresh gasket but I never learned how to rebuild a transmission thanks for the video happy Fourth of July
I see your point. Basically the transmission filter acts like the engine oil pump pick-up screen which you don't have to change. So as long as the transmission oil is frequently changed you don't have to worry about dropping the Pan. But if it's been neglected you can change the filter once and not worry about it anymore.
Excellent video. I asked ZF what they recommend in mileage intervals on my BMW eight speed. They told me 60-100,000 kilometers. So I change the fluid every 40k miles vs BMW'S "lifetime fill" baloney. My car still shifts like new at 120k miles.
@nebaicita it’s a lifetime nonsense. If it was lifetime then transmission would have lifetime warranty. Transmission fluid DTF-1 lifetime nonsense, damage is done by false advertising by car companies ruclips.net/video/-bB0KrtN05A/видео.html
Informative. Our Silverado 1500 we use for towing our camper has almost 60k on it. Noticed some random rumbling when doing certain speeds. Got the transmission fluid flushed. Not the whole pan drop and filter replace.Just the basic. Cost about $350 compared to over $600. Fluid was black. Not it is driving way better and normal. Think I may do the full service around the 85k-100k mile marker next time just to replace the filter and clean the magnets since the fluid was in bad shape when changing. But this video is an eye opener and will save me money on Challenger Scat Pack. That car has 65k on it. All it needs is a transmission flush, not the full drop. Like you said, does the filter really need a change? Not at 65k for a car used on the highway a bunch. Once again, just more price scams by places trying to upcharge you on stuff thats not needed.
Too late now, I didn't do enough research back then and went with forester actually that one got brand new , started to love how it handles in snow and off road so I'm trying my best to keep it as long as I can
I bought a 2008 Nissan Altima. I wanted to change the cvt fluid since it had 151,000 kilometres and who knows if it was ever changed. So I went ahead and bought Amsoil cvt fluid and did a drain and fill. The transmission mechanic even cleaned the filter and bottom of the pan for me. Unfortunately the old fluid was black and did not seem to be changed at all. I’m currently at 185,000km with no issues. I’ll be doing another drain and fill when I hit 200,000km. I would recommend Amsoil fluid for everything in your vehicle, it’s really good stuff. I should add that I took the car to a Nissan stealership for a cvt diagnostic before the drain and fill. They told me it would fail at 160,000 and I should get it replaced before then for $5000 CAD. Even though I’ve never had any issues with my car, and still don’t after the drain and fill.
If your trans pan has a drain bolt plug just keep on draining your used fluid and gradually adding new fluid every now and then until the older fluid will be totally purged out even after you changed out the fluid again at 200km, there still will be the some original old fluid left in a small amount in the system ,,Drain a quart at 7000 km and fill it with a new one and then a do it again at 7000 km and maybe a third one after that and you should be running totally on Amsoil CVT by then with a much better shifting cvt .
@@EmuTermX I have a 2012 Nissan Altima wit the CVT that will go out fast ,but about 4 years ago ,I started adding AMSOIL to it and changed it all out and replaced it ,it shifts great and much better than with the NS2 fluid with the car at around 182 k miles, Amsoil does not hold air bubbles nearly as much as other fluids will ..... Glad to hear good news ,Good Luck /**
100% same message I have been telling people for years. Several transmissions have a suction side internal filter that can only be replaced when unit is torn down for overhaul. If you have enough debris to clog up a suction side filter, then that trans needs overhauled anyway. A suction side filter only gets more efficient over time. Better to install a Magnefine filter inline to or from the cooler if you want to keep more wear particles out. The suction side filter is at best a 100 micron filter, where an inline filter with a magnet inside it can do 30 or 40 microns or better and prevent more wear particles from ever entering the valve body to cause trouble.
Hello, just adding my experience I have a 4l60 that had 175,000 miles when I got it. I drove 18 month checking tranny fluid finally getting some dark color and it's 230,000 miles. Finally changing fluids today. No filter shifts great
I'd like to throw this out there for comments. I have a 2018 Escalade. At 15000 miles I went ahead and replaced front and read differential fluids and transfer case fluids. I used Amsoil. For oil I use Mobile 1. So now at 19000 I thought Id get the transmission fluid changed with the thought in mind that now that the truck has been driven and any initial wear on fluids or parts is done I'd be set for another 30000 miles. I just didn't have the guts to do the transmission myself, because these new transmissions in GM products a PITA to do. The pan is difficult to remove and filling it is difficult and the whole temperature thing. Anyway I bought the Amsoil fluid and took it to my mechanic yesterday. When I came back to pick the truck up he said all done no problems but he didn't use my fluid. He put the ac delco ALV, it is what GM calls for but he says he's afraid the Amsoil will damage the transmission and he doesn't want to be responsible for that. It's too late now but I won't be asking him to do anything again if he's just going to do what he wants.
Most mechanic don’t want you to supply them with parts so they can rip yup off on parts as well :) that’s the whole story they don’t want you to be aware of 👍🏼
Only reason I changed it was because of the pan seal leaking. I empty and fill every 30k miles on my tacoma. There’s no such thing as “lifetime” fluid.
Leave it alone and do a drain and fill every 30k. I do think the first one at 10k is a good idea. I have 200,000 miles on a 2006 Matrix and it shifts perfect.
This video is Very informative! Particularly, difference between high pressure and low pressure filters! Thank you! However, I think it’s worthy to drop the pan and clean the magnet and the pan. It’s rare for a pan bolt to break, unless it’s rusted severely. How do you think?
If my vehicle had lower mileage, I would change the filter, but I’m currently at 210K miles and it’s an oil burning engine, so I make sure the transmission fluid is drain and refill at 15K interval with Toyota ATF. Will use Amsoil Signature Series ATF the next time I do a drain and refill and push the interval to 30K
I switched all of my cars' ATF from the Honda DW-1 and Aisin T-4 (same spec) with Amsoil OE ATF (same spec) which gives quicker and smoother shifts. I still drain and fill @ 15K or 30K miles, depending on the amount of miles driven per year and the driving conditions. I did change the filter in my new-to-me VW's O9G automatic transmission made by Aisin because I didn't know how old it was and it had ZERO contaminants in it. I tightened the bolts with a torque wrench as always, so breaking them was not an issue. Now that I know I have a clean filter, I don't plan on changing it again. I agree that if you ONLY drain and fill at scheduled intervals - or more frequently - with premium fluids, there will be no problems.
I just bought a 2021 Ford Superduty F-350 7.3 big block 4.30 gears with the 10 speed transmission. I hope 🤞 the transmission proves durable . Amazing fuel ⛽️ economy with that trans . Gets better gas mileage than my 2018 Ram 6.4 6 speed trans .
I agree with your position, I purchased a 2003 BMW 325 with 130,000 miles. I replaced the filter and oil on the lifetime no service transmission.The oil was in bad shape. The bottom of the oil pan collected some particles and sludge. I have since only changed the oil. I have driven the car 50,000 miles with no issues
Here is the list of fluids compatible with your Sorento www.amsoil.com/lookup/auto-and-light-truck/2013/kia/sorento/3-5l-6-cyl-engine-code-2-h/?volume=us-volume&zo=5257753
@@repairvehicle have never changed it. At around 100k, it got sluggish. Just reset the adaptations and runs like it had 30 miles on it when I bought it back then. It is a n51 engine.
I just bought a 2006 Toyota Camry with 85000 on it not sure if the fluid or filter has been changed but the fluid looks pretty clean just wondering if I could get by with just changing the fluid only
Repair vehicle can you damage transmission if you change the fluid too soon, for example , say I change the transmission fluid and then I change it again 100 miles later is that bad ?
I have a 2003 Toyota Corolla automatic transmission with about 200,000 that I just purchased I was wondering should I just drain and fill the transmission or do a complete flush?
I’ve always changed my trans fluid ever 65k. I just drain and fill. I realize this only changes about half the fluid but it’s always worked for me. I’ve never had a transmission problem. My ford 6.0L transmission had an external filter from the factory so I always changed it with the fluid. I’ve never had a transmission flush of any kind. I also like to add lubegard to my fluid. It may not do anything, I certainly don’t have any proof that it works. All my transmissions shift well and lubegard has never caused an issue.
@@repairvehicleI did the head gaskets, studded it and deleted the egr at 206k as preventative maintenance, although they never blew. I also added a mechanical fan clutch, and some other common small mods. It was tuned at 100k and stayed tuned until I sold it. As far as repairs, I did the ficm twice, a full set of injectors but not all at the same time, the oil cooler was done under warrantee, & 2 high pressure oil pumps. Nothing on the engine itself just peripherals. The turbo was on its last legs when I sold it.
Just bought a 2011 toyota sienna with 170000 miles with no prior history of transmission oil change. Should I replace the filter or just the fluid. BTW transmission shifts smoothly with no issues.
Aw yea. That filter still looks good and it was very tough of you trying to pry it open. The point of how hard it was to pull it open, shows the durability of how those trans filters can last a liftime (possibly). It wasn't cracked, dent or broken and it had very small particals from the transmission (glittery look) on the cushion. Some might think I'm crazy for saying this but. Hard plastic is tougher than aluminum, hence why pieces of fragments coming off the transmission, while the filter still looks good and not damaged. You would think that with the filter it catches things from the transmission, that the filter would look damaged or worn also. And pieces from the transmission, didn't do any affect or damage to the hard plastic of the filter. Aluminum is tougher than plastic, but then it isn't. Because plastic is stronger than aluminum, it doesn't wear down nowhere near as fast as aluminum. Aluminum typically last from 50 to 100 years, meaning some issues will happen soon in the very early years. All types of plastic (no matter what material it is) can last 400 to 450 years. Aluminum will age, wear and break down way faster than any type of plastic. I don't understand why the parts inside the transmission, aren't made with better durability (especially the gears). To where they won't wear out so fast and breaking down. I feel like cars should be made for lifetime "GURANTEED". With how expensive the parts are on the car. Yea you should still keep up with maintenance. But the most criticals part on the car, should be way more durable than it is. I just feel that the critical parts need to be made with a better different material, that's alot stronger. I'm sure alot of companies are looking into it in the near future or so.
I have a 2007 sequoia with 220000 miles and the fluid has never been flushed. There are no issues at this time. Should I change the fluid and filter or leave it?
Keep it that way. DON'T MESS WITH IT. If ain't broke, there's no reason for you to fixed it. Stay away from it. Keep it as is where is and enjoy your ride
Nice explanation. The transmission filter is clogged free for it is designed to filter out the sand size or even smaller elements. How about the particles that are captured by the magnets does it have for us to worry about?🤔
Should you drop the pan when changing fluid or just let the tranny pump the fluid out of the return line at the radiator, keeping fresh fluid in tranny by adding 1.5 gallons befor starting the engine to pump old transmission fluid out. I have seen a few videos doing this. Is that safe?
I almost put my escaped in park will moving. It ground a little. Now my suv has some filing and stops moving. I check the side senser and it had fillings. Should I try changing the filter?
My sienna has over 200k, same filter, same fluid. Although my tranny doesn’t shift in highest gear but so far so good. It might be time though to change.
This is great, so I just bought a 2006 Acura TSX with 154K miles and I don't know if they recently changed the fluid or filter and I'm hoping they used Honda Z-1 Transmission Fluid. Should I buy a 5 quart Honda Genuine ATM Z-1 Fluid and do several drain/fills in case they didn't use the Fluid that is recommended for Acuras? I have a pump Extractor too, rather than dropping the pan I'm thinking of using the pump to extract whatever doesn't come out of the pan.
Good video but my question would be since you did observe metal fines in the filter media, how can you be sure filtration is still effective? Also, with a dipstick and I believe some vents too in an automatic transmission system, I'm not so sure these systems are not sealed as you say. I also know that my Highlander has magnet in the pan so if the pan is not dropped, there is no opportunity to check the magnets and clean them of fines. I can imagine a situation where the magnets may have fines on them to the point they are no longer attracting metal and have therefore stopped functioning. I think the bottom line for me is what is harm in the dropping the pan, changing that filter and cleaning the magnets. If the bolts are in good shape, shouldn't be an issue with those.
@@repairvehicle Yes. I watched it. It seems your observation the media is more open than oil filter media is somewhat subjective. What is the pore size in comparison for example? I would agree that with regular fluid changes, magnets could be fine, but would you agree that if a car has not had the fluid changed in 100k+ miles, it would be beneficial to drop the pan and proceed with filter change as necessary? Provided the pan bolts come off (which they should if corrosion free and pre-treating with PB Blaser) I can only seen the benefits in a case where the fluid was never changed (or deferred).
@mountainbiker4450 if you watched video without skipping then know the answer because I answered in the video. Thank you for taking time to watch the video and comment.
Why does my Qx4 has to warm up early in the morning before it can enter reverse gear? The same happens when I pack it for a long time in the day and engine cooled down .
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I have a passo I put my car in reverse and it doesn't move
@@blessbless1919 , what is the mileage? How often atf fluid has been replaced?
What has been done to the transmission?
500K miles on a transmission? I was at 30K and I didn't get a flush before the 4l60e lost 3-4 clutch pack. I had gone over 5K rpm a few times - so probably the drum piston seal was cracked and also the release springs couldn't handle the cavitation from the centrifuge at high rpm. So yeah it was $5K to put in a Reman. Thanks for this vid - I'll get a flush every 10K miles now.
I subscribed thoy
Though
I’ve been a mobile mechanic for 10 years never broke a bolt or seen one stripped or anything on trans. But YES change fluid every 40ish thousand miles. There is no such thing as lifetime fluid that is b.s.
I have seen them broken and stripped from people overtightening them, but I have never broken or stripped one myself. As long as a torque wrench or common sense is used when tightening the bolts, there should be no problem.
transmission every 40,000 miles?. I googled how often should i change on my scion tc 2005 and says every 100,000 miles .
@@fastdeliveryl708 The manufacturers couldn't care less how long the transmission lasts once the car is out of warranty, but they do care about the cost of ownership calculations since people look at that when choosing a car. Do what you want, but $30 or whatever for new fluid every few years depending on how much you drive is cheap insurance if you want to keep the car for a long time.
@@averyalexander2303 i might do it, every 60,000 then or 65,000 .
@@fastdeliveryl708 It's up to you. If you want actual data, you can have the old fluid analyzed by companies like Blackstone Labs to see how much life is left in it and know for sure instead of guessing. Many factors such as how and where the vehicle is driven, the transmission's internal wear, which fluid is used, etc drastically affect the fluid's longevity, so accurately estimating it's condition just by mileage is impossible. If it was that simple, oil analysis labs wouldn't exist.
Straight to the point! Correct information without repeating internet myths. I am a chemist and an amateur mechanic and i must say it is rare to see someone give away the right information.
104,000 miles on the original filter in my 2019 silverado. Just today , September 9th 2023, I popped out the filter just to make sure it's not cracked. Popped it back in, topped off the 5 gts I drained with fresh fluid. I don't even need to move the heat shield to get at the fill plug anymore. I get in there with bent pliers and pop it out, insert some tuning into the hole, and fill from the engine compartment with a funnel into the tubing. Works great.
On Chevys I would change the filter they are easy to get to I have changed my transmission Filter on my 2 door OBS Tahoe many times in the Different Tahoe’s I have owned no issues.
When you pop it out, the seal is supposed to be changed. I don't honestly know if it makes a real difference but I just replace the filter whenever I drop the pan on my 4L60.
(and the seal)
The truck made it to 113,000 miles and the lifters went. I traded it for a Toyota last March (2024).
@@chuckgladfelter Why? It's not an internal combustion engine.
Ive got a 2010 lexus es 350 with 120000 miles and i have no clue if the trans fluid has ever been changed. These videos are giving my the confidence to change it myself. Great stuff
Is there anything i should watch out for on a fluid change with this many miles on it? Im pretty sure its the original fluid.
Depending where you leave, your drain plug could be rusted, and you might have to use alternative tools instead of 6mm hex
IF u are smart mechanically and know the exact procedure per toyota recommdendations: otherwise, let a pro do it, bcuz there's a reason the Toyota co didn't want owners touching the system while under warranty, and it's bcuz of contamination that often happens with a non pro working on the system/bolts/etc. have to keep everything super clean that touches the fluid/holes/etc
What contamination? How you seen one single video where it’s contamination free? Do you even realize what you are saying?
Awesome! Thank you for clarifying the differences. My old mechanic told me once before he retired...you don’t need to change the trans filter unless there is a problem (dirty and burn odor fluid) as long as you change the trans fluid regularly (drain/fill)
I agree, the problems begin when the fluid ISN'T changed regularly. But if the transmission doesn't have a drain plug on the pan as many do not, the pan has to be removed to drain the fluid anyways. And once the pan is removed, I'd personally just spend the ~$20 replacing the filter for piece of mind. If the pan had a drain plug, I'd just drop the pan, clean the magnets, and change the filter every few drain and fills. Those filters do last a while since they don't accumulate soot and other combustion byproducts like engine oil filters do, but the filter and magnets do accumulate debris over time from internal wear and I just feel better getting that crap out of the transmission from time to time.
Filters get dirty. They clog and cause major stress in the hydraulic system
@tomcocci you are wrong! Watch video first without skipping and comment
@@repairvehicle?
?
I took my Honda CRZ to a mechanic for transmission oil change after a while my transmission was slipping when u press the excelerator it would take off after 1 or 2 seconds after And i found out he did not put the correct CVTF oil in it as it is expensive but the only one that is recommended for my car.This time after learning from your video's i changed it myself with the correct oil and now it runs great.And this vid is a good example of how we can do a lot more damage than good when changing transmission filters.
Thank. you for sharing your experience.
With factory none synthetic atf it's best to do 30k miles atf fluid change.
I wouldn't blame the filter in this situation.
Hello, I’ve been doing a drain and refill on my 2003 Camry 2.4L with 400.000 miles since new with no problems.
Which trans oil are you using if u don’t mind asking ? And how often do you change it ? Thanks
@@costantineyoussif6679 I use Castrol transmax import multi-vehicle. I do a drain and refill every 6 months
@@gregorywells944 what?
You mean you change engine oil every 6 months?
@@dvader3000 no, transmission fluid
@@gregorywells944 you do every 6 months but .. how many miles ?. i heard has to be done every 60,000 on some youtube channels
I own a 2005 Nissan Sentra 1.8 liter with 327,000 miles and I only change the fluid. I use Valvoline MAXLIFE Full synthetic ATF and never have changed the filter because you have to drop the trans valve body to get to one nut on one bolt. Just asking for more problems. You will never "Fill Up" a trans filter!!! I just changed the trans pan because it was rusted thru and leaking, replaced pan and cleaned and replaced the magnets on the new pan.
I change fluid every 40,000 miles and my car runs and drives like a new one. MAINTAINANCE !!!!!
Great video :)
Your Nissan has real transmission that can go many miles trouble free when maintained. Thank you for sharing
It's been three years since your comment. Do you still have the nissan ?
@@1985safraz I sold it when my wife hit a deer. I still got $500. It's still running around town. :)
Excellent video. I have an 08 Acura TL with 350k and the original transmission. I do a drain/fill with every other engine oil/filter change or about every 10k miles. No filter. Still shifts like new.
More people need to read your experience, true and tried.
Wow. I do every 30k on a 2006 Matrix with 200,000 miles. Never dropped the pan. Also shifts perfect.
I do the exact same thing on my 2012 Camry. The only thing I don't like is having to pump the transmission fluid back in, I hate doing that. I found a funnel that actually fits into drain refill hole, but it's not long enough to wear I can just pour 2 bottles of tranny fluid in. I'm currently looking for some clear plastic hose or something where I can attach to the bottom of the funnel I'm using so it's extends past my wheel and I can hold upright where I can just pour 2 bottles right in.
Acura doesn't have a internal trans filter.
Thank you. I was thinking of changing the trans filter like I did years ago. I will just do a drain and fill.
Great information, the average person would never know any of this and just assume it needs to be changed. Well done and I 100% agree.
Please share this video with others via Facebook or any other ways.
Good video, I choose to change the filter when doing a transmission service. There is also magnetics in the pan that catches fine particles, this also need to be cleaned. Breaking pan bolts is usually done because owners fail to torque them to specifications. Many times over torquing them. These bolts don’t require anymore than about 10 ft pounds.
The transmission pan bolts on my car require 18 Ft•lbs and yes I use a torque wrench.
i did one drain and fill when i got my 06 matrix in the summer, since then everyone in the fb matrix group keeps suggesting me to change the filter but it's just a mesh screen like in your video. I will just pass and drain and fill again instead
Finally an in depth video explaining what is actually going on inside your transmission..👍
Don’t , that when something will go wrong. Lol
Very good explanation -- I'll probably send my filter kit back (72K & no problems) -- since I have a drain plug.
Very good in depth lesson on transmission filters. I agree in what their function is in that they would prevent collateral damage if metal shavings or other large particle were to become free and otherwise get sucked up into the valve bodies, clutches, servos, etc.
Exactly my thought
Thank You for vidio . I just changed my filter & fluid on Rav 4 at 46, 000 miles . First time done . I was going to cut open filter but didn't . Regardless of what they say , I always remove pan & clean pan & magnets ! ! That is where the most nasty stuff is !! It's impossible to totally drain 2018 Rav 4 without removing pan . Drain bolt leaves at least a quart of dirty fluid in pan . That's redicilus . Replacing filter first time is good idea after break in .
Dropping pan does not drain all fluid, you still have fluid inside torque converter
@@repairvehicle yes and have to do about 2-3 flushes to get approx 95% of old fluid out, unless you have a machine that sucks the fluid out as the car is running, and also the converter.
Machine is not replacing all of the fluid
@@repairvehicle Sure replaces more than just draining it does. About 90% success rate.
@@howtoplaymusic67 , if you do 4 drain and fill it replaces 90% success rate just like flush machine.
Very helpful, I’ve been trying to sift through information on transmission preventative maintenance to find what is accurate and authentic
Thanks, you just saved me $95 for a filter and gasket!(plus time to drop the pan)
(If the filter and gasket cost up to $40 I'd do it, but I would only do it once at 200k miles)
I’m going to take your advice. I’ve got a 2010 Toyota Corolla w 206k miles. I just did it’s first drain and fill of oem transmission fluid. I’m going to drain and fill the transmission fluid again my next oil change. To try and swap out more clean fluid. Car still running great. Pretty much only done oil changes up till this point.
Any issues with transmission cause i have the same car
Here because I wondered why no filter change on my Toyota when a flush was completed. I understand now, thanks.
Nice I just had my torque converter and fluid replaced under a recall 2014 Toyota RAV4 torque converter flexing problem it was slipping between 2-3 gear I had to look up this problem and saw the recall up to 150,000k
Great information, thank you for posting!!! In my experience most of the broke bolts come from the quickie service/oil change shops.
I appreciate your advice. Drain and fill makes sense to me.
I am close to 60000 miles with my 2020 Toyota Camry LE . I am gling to have the filter replaced , filters filter . What damage can you cause by replacing it . And switching to AMsOil Signature Series ATF . And hoping this shop would do a " passive flush " . Which I believe it is disconnecting the hoses from the transmission cooler . One hose to suck in new ATF and the other end comes out the old . Of course with engine running and this would be normal pressure .
Answer in the video
I overtightened some of the bolts on the transmission pan on a 05 Volvo XC90 after I did a drain and fill and installed a new filter and snapped some of the bolts off when I overtightened them. I did it 3 times before I realized my mistake. I had to take the car to a professional mechanic to have those broken bolts out. A learning experience; the hard way.
Invest money into torque wrench ETORK review after 1 year of use. Additional information about 1/4, 3/8 and 1/2 torque wrench
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@@repairvehicle The sad thing is that I used a torque wrench but evidently set it at multiple times the correct setting. When the bolts snapped I thought it was the 'click'! A perfect example of a DIY Fail. But I did learn my lesson! Coincidently I'm waiting for my mechanic to let me know if the transmission drain & fill and filter will resurrect the wonky shifting on a 2012 Mini that I just picked up cheap. Aisin 6-speed.
Good information . I always thought of it as an engine filter. I know now I was not exactly correct.
Thank you for explaining. After watching 15 videos this one was the only useful one.
You are welcome. Please share this video with others.
Honda CRV ( at least older models like my 2012) has a a filter/pick up just like this one and a small one inline behind the engine ( also looks like a paper one in a metal case). both are 'non serviceable' items. I've changed the inline one at 120k miles and opened it up..it was nice and dirty. Great video!
Thank you.
Great advice, however, the 2001 Jeep Grand Cherokee Laredo 4.7 with the 545rfe transmission that I just did an engine swap on was previously sitting for 5+ years and everything was filthy, especially the ATF and filters. Got no other choice... this is my daughter's Jeep and I'm trying to make sure everything is done well and is reliable. Hoping for the best now tho!
20 years old, definitely filter must be replaced
Never changed the filter on my 2015 Yaris CVT, got it at 80,000m & changed the fluid at 85,000m (Now has 92,000m) with genuine Toyota FE twice in 2 weeks. It takes 2.2L each drain.
What I would like to see is you cutting open a filter from an old transmission that still works but has been neglected. If the filter media is not clogged, that would prove your point that filters do not need changing. Also, it would be interesting to know what is the oil flow (gallon per minute) going through a transmission filter.
Unfortunately, neglected transmission don't work and that's why transmission shops still in business. I found used neglected not working transmission with 130k miles for Tacoma on Craigslist for $650, trying to negotiate price but guy thinks he can sell for asking price.
Any machine that has a filter inside it oil filter transmission filter or air cleaner they were put there for the factory for a reason filter out the crap like sweeping the floor every once awhile yet a sweep the floor😂
I did my first fluid change on my 2007 Corolla ( bought new ) when it had 170 k on it. I didn't replace, only cleaned the screen filter. It had very minimal debris on it. The pan had a fine layer of debris too. I have a Camry too and will change the fluid earlier but probably wait until 150 or so to clean the filter.
Very informative video!
I changed my 07 Scion tC transmission filter alongside the fluid for the first time at 176k miles. Never had done that kind of work, so it was a learning experience. Transmission shifts smoot and no problems so far after some 5k+ miles.
Now I’m thinking about doing the same to my 12 tC since I hear the tranny whine when I accelerate or let go of the pedal. Bought it a few months ago and already did a drain and refill. If I do, I’ll post an update here
Put seafoam in your transmission drive it for about 30 miles and then change it it will clean it out and probably help it from slipping it's called seafoam transmission trans
Have you tried seafoam in your transmission?
I have not seen any comments about anyone using seafoam and having good results
Why do you want to use seafoam?
I really appreciate this. mt V70 xc has 143,000. the transmission obviously has junk clogging the solinoids. I see that my filter is not the problem. I don't have a garage to work on my.car. irony have 3.200 dollars to get it changed. im stuck.!!
I changed the fluids on my V70 with Valvoline Maxlife ATF. Fixed my shifting problem right away.
I have 1999 toyota tacoma v6 with 222,000 miles and never change the fluid and filter and still running good. after watching your video now have to change the fluid not the filter.
You might want to change your filter as well. Just saying.
Subaru uses a spin on trans filter and the internal filter looks a lot like the screen filter that you showed in the video. On the models without the spin on filter they use a fiber element filter like the one you disassembled. They are supposed to be lifetime filters but I change them at 60K.
Lifetime means for the life of the warranty. Otherwise they should be offering lifetime warranty on transmission and they know the fluid cannot last longer than warranty time without causing significant wear.
repairvehicle I agree. I wanted to mention I just finished changing the oil in my new air compressor and replaced it with Amsoil 30/40 compressor oil. I would consider using anything else.
They really need to stop calling them filters, when in reality they're strainers.
U are the only one who said don’t change the filler, I watched so many people who change their fillers. It’s completely unnecessary
Did you watch video without skipping?
@@repairvehicle yeah, I was considering changing the fluid in my car. Your video helps a lot
What do you have and mileage?
@@repairvehicle 2010 Toyota Venza, 76000km
Very nice car!
I came across this video as I'm searching for part numbers for my wife's 2019 Mitsubishi Mirage G4, it just hit 30k miles so I want to do the 30k service on the CVT fluid. Anyway, that Jatco CVT has a small cartridge filter with an o-ring and has a pickup filter in the sump/pan like the one you have here. Trying to find exploded parts diagrams for Mitsubishi is not easy, Toyota and Honda definitely much easier for some reason.
On my 2003 Honda Odyssey, it has 176k miles in the odometer with the original transmission, apparently never failed at 60k like it's supposed to. Since I can't replace the pickup filter because it's sealed, there is a cartridge filter that's behind that battery that almost no one knows about. I did change that one at about 150k miles. Otherwise I change the fluid every other year with genuine Honda fluid and I've never had any transmission trouble and tell you what I use it for work, I have all the seats removed but I fill it up with packages, sometimes I'm not so nice and I'll do a FWD peel out from a stop, that 3.5L VTEC is sweet, don't know why they put it into a minivan. So while I've done the preventative maintenance on it I don't baby it either but there she is, still shifts like a champ.
Our 2012 G37 has 87k on it and I don't think the fluid was changed yet. I can do the fluid exchange but have always done trans services with the filter at the same time. Unless some bolts get snapped from over torquing, seems like replacing the filter makes sense at 87k. But perhaps I'll just do the fluid drain, which only gets about 1/2 the fluid anyway, as the rest is in the t. converter like you said.
I would carefully try to loosen the pan bolts. If you can get them out I would drop the pan. If the fluid isn’t black and burnt and no excessive goop on the magnet I’d do a complete fluid exchange
Absolutely correct, as an auto technician for 15 yes I approve this video 1000%
How did you find this video?
Very informative video. Thank you for the research and dissection of the filter. Worked on Nissan's, Toyota's , and Mercedes for over 20 years. Good advice on more frequent fluid changes. I personally see every reason to change filters more often than factory recommendations. But, as you mentioned, your driving conditions will dictate your personal
maintenance schedule. Thank you again, Sincerely, JPC
Thank you for taking time to watch and comment.
@@repairvehicle Really appreciate you posting this video Sir. It really helped to understand a lot of myths when it comes to whether or not changing transmission filters is really needed. I will follow your recommendations. It just make sense everything you said 👍👍👍
Thank you. Please share this video with others.
@@repairvehicle Sure thing Sir. Will do👍
Frequent fluid change will greatly extend the life of your transmission. Also, adding an auxiliary cooler with a 180 deg. thermostat will also make the fluid and transmissions to last significantly longer. It's a must if you tow with your vehicle.
Any idea where transmission thermostat with 180 degrees can be purchased, any company name would be appreciated.
@@repairvehicle www.ebay.com/itm/333454187328
Found this on eBay, maybe there are higher quality parts available from mishimoto.
@@repairvehicle Your vehicle may already have a transmissions cooler thermostat if it has an auxiliary trans. cooler, like what's found in many trucks.
I'll attach a link in my next reply, in case you disabled links on your channel.
I tow a large travel trailer with my 2016 4Runner. TRansmission was running hot even when not towing.
I installed a large external, auxiliary cooler and a 180 degree thermostat to bypass the cooler when it's not needed. Many people will argue that a thermostat is not needed but I thinks it's a must. In cold weather, transmission oil may never reach above 100 degrees F, with a large auxiliary cooler not equipped with a thermostat. It's not good because any moisture in the system will never evaporate. A thermostat will remedy this problem and will provide cooling for your transmission when it's needed most.
With the new system, transmission oil temperature in my 4Runner would slowly get to about 150 degrees and hover at around 150 to 160 degrees most of the time. I've seen it get to 168 several times when towing uphill during 90+ days. I believe that somewhat consistent temperature also contributes to transmission performance and longetivity.
I use a ScanGauge II (thanks for the suggestion in one of your videos!) to monitor several parameters including my Transmission Temperature. Keep in mind that this is measured on the bottom of the oil pan. Fluid temperature at the cooler (and the thermostat) runs about 20-30 degrees hotter.
Don't forget to add about a quart of trans oil to compensate for the volume in the cooler and all the hoses). Don't forget to buy some additional hose. I'd used about 10 feet but I'm very picky about small details.
Install a new cooler after the existing cooler inside the radiator. Verify flow direction visually. Hot/Cold by touch method doesn't work for this. There are several "professional" videos on RUclips by Etrailer where they screwed this up and connected the cooler before the radiator.
Overall, I'm very happy with the new transmission cooler. I installed it at 20k miles. No towing prior to that. Transmission fluid was already dark brown. This is at 20,000 miles of regular driving. There is NO WAY the Toyota's ATF will last 100k. I always change ATF at 15,000 miles (drain and refill).
Here is a link to the thermostat I used: www.ebay.com/itm/Derale-Transmission-Oil-Cooler-Thermostat-13011-/352193632247 . It wasn't from this particular seller though. A lot of places sell them.
Hope this helps.
BTW, you have a slight accent. Where from, if it's not a secret?
So, did you install aftermarket transmission thermostat on your Toyota? My Sequoia and Tundra has factory thermostat, and I don't like how it works on Sequoia. It constantly cooking fluid above 200 in hot weather and in colder weather it's around 220.
I have a second hand Camry with 204K miles. Probably still with original transmission fluids. I just purchased transmission filter and gasket so I can replace it while changing the oil.
I would not change it. It has too many miles.
You know your stuff I change the filters just cuz they are there plus it gives me time to wipe down the pan get rid of all the metal filings clean the magnet where the fresh gasket but I never learned how to rebuild a transmission thanks for the video happy Fourth of July
I see your point. Basically the transmission filter acts like the engine oil pump pick-up screen which you don't have to change. So as long as the transmission oil is frequently changed you don't have to worry about dropping the Pan. But if it's been neglected you can change the filter once and not worry about it anymore.
You got it man
Excellent video. I asked ZF what they recommend in mileage intervals on my BMW eight speed. They told me 60-100,000 kilometers. So I change the fluid every 40k miles vs BMW'S "lifetime fill" baloney. My car still shifts like new at 120k miles.
im make the same ask to ZF they said bmw aft its life time...but if you drive agresive change every 8 years or 100.000km / 62.000 miles
8 years and 60k miles is too long
@@repairvehicle its what ZF said on bmw lifetime aft..
@nebaicita it’s a lifetime nonsense. If it was lifetime then transmission would have lifetime warranty.
Transmission fluid DTF-1 lifetime nonsense, damage is done by false advertising by car companies
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Informative. Our Silverado 1500 we use for towing our camper has almost 60k on it. Noticed some random rumbling when doing certain speeds. Got the transmission fluid flushed. Not the whole pan drop and filter replace.Just the basic. Cost about $350 compared to over $600. Fluid was black. Not it is driving way better and normal. Think I may do the full service around the 85k-100k mile marker next time just to replace the filter and clean the magnets since the fluid was in bad shape when changing. But this video is an eye opener and will save me money on Challenger Scat Pack. That car has 65k on it. All it needs is a transmission flush, not the full drop. Like you said, does the filter really need a change? Not at 65k for a car used on the highway a bunch. Once again, just more price scams by places trying to upcharge you on stuff thats not needed.
For 225k miles that filter 👀 looks great 👍 and trust worthy.
Learning something new everyday ,thank you for all you do. Earned a subscription
What model is your lexus?
No I don't have money for Lexus 😅 I got a subie 🙈
Actually you do have money for lexus. Used lexus has same price as your Used Subaru. I bought my Used lexus for less than brand new camry.
Too late now, I didn't do enough research back then and went with forester actually that one got brand new , started to love how it handles in snow and off road so I'm trying my best to keep it as long as I can
&repairvehicle: what model Lexus do you have?
I bought a 2008 Nissan Altima. I wanted to change the cvt fluid since it had 151,000 kilometres and who knows if it was ever changed. So I went ahead and bought Amsoil cvt fluid and did a drain and fill. The transmission mechanic even cleaned the filter and bottom of the pan for me. Unfortunately the old fluid was black and did not seem to be changed at all. I’m currently at 185,000km with no issues. I’ll be doing another drain and fill when I hit 200,000km. I would recommend Amsoil fluid for everything in your vehicle, it’s really good stuff.
I should add that I took the car to a Nissan stealership for a cvt diagnostic before the drain and fill. They told me it would fail at 160,000 and I should get it replaced before then for $5000 CAD. Even though I’ve never had any issues with my car, and still don’t after the drain and fill.
Thank you for sharing your experience with amsoil atf
If your trans pan has a drain bolt plug just keep on draining your used fluid and gradually adding new fluid every now and then until the older fluid will be totally purged out even after you changed out the fluid again at 200km, there still will be the some original old fluid left in a small amount in the system ,,Drain a quart at 7000 km and fill it with a new one and then a do it again at 7000 km and maybe a third one after that and you should be running totally on Amsoil CVT by then with a much better shifting cvt .
@@VIDSTORAGE Quick update! I have an appointment for my next drain and fill next week. Altima has been driving great with no issues!
@@EmuTermX I have a 2012 Nissan Altima wit the CVT that will go out fast ,but about 4 years ago ,I started adding AMSOIL to it and changed it all out and replaced it ,it shifts great and much better than with the NS2 fluid with the car at around 182 k miles, Amsoil does not hold air bubbles nearly as much as other fluids will ..... Glad to hear good news ,Good Luck /**
February 2023 UPDATE: CVT fluid changed at 205,000 Km and still going strong! Currently at 218,000 Km
best advice on youtube regarding filter changes ,
Thanks man I just waved my doubts , great content
100% same message I have been telling people for years. Several transmissions have a suction side internal filter that can only be replaced when unit is torn down for overhaul. If you have enough debris to clog up a suction side filter, then that trans needs overhauled anyway. A suction side filter only gets more efficient over time. Better to install a Magnefine filter inline to or from the cooler if you want to keep more wear particles out. The suction side filter is at best a 100 micron filter, where an inline filter with a magnet inside it can do 30 or 40 microns or better and prevent more wear particles from ever entering the valve body to cause trouble.
My new favorite car repair RUclips channel, thoroughly explained
Hello, just adding my experience I have a 4l60 that had 175,000 miles when I got it. I drove 18 month checking tranny fluid finally getting some dark color and it's 230,000 miles. Finally changing fluids today. No filter shifts great
What brand of fluid did you use? What year is your truck?
I'd like to throw this out there for comments. I have a 2018 Escalade. At 15000 miles I went ahead and replaced front and read differential fluids and transfer case fluids. I used Amsoil. For oil I use Mobile 1. So now at 19000 I thought Id get the transmission fluid changed with the thought in mind that now that the truck has been driven and any initial wear on fluids or parts is done I'd be set for another 30000 miles. I just didn't have the guts to do the transmission myself, because these new transmissions in GM products a PITA to do. The pan is difficult to remove and filling it is difficult and the whole temperature thing. Anyway I bought the Amsoil fluid and took it to my mechanic yesterday. When I came back to pick the truck up he said all done no problems but he didn't use my fluid. He put the ac delco ALV, it is what GM calls for but he says he's afraid the Amsoil will damage the transmission and he doesn't want to be responsible for that. It's too late now but I won't be asking him to do anything again if he's just going to do what he wants.
Unfortunately this mechanic is clueless.
Most mechanic don’t want you to supply them with parts so they can rip yup off on parts as well :) that’s the whole story they don’t want you to be aware of 👍🏼
Only reason I changed it was because of the pan seal leaking. I empty and fill every 30k miles on my tacoma. There’s no such thing as “lifetime” fluid.
Is it dark?
It was dark on mine at 30k miles
@@repairvehicle 30k is that sweet spot then
30k miles always been sweet spot for atf fluid.
@@edwingiron09 yea it does get a bit darker. Perfect time to drain and fill.
Leave it alone and do a drain and fill every 30k. I do think the first one at 10k is a good idea. I have 200,000 miles on a 2006 Matrix and it shifts perfect.
This video is Very informative! Particularly, difference between high pressure and low pressure filters! Thank you!
However, I think it’s worthy to drop the pan and clean the magnet and the pan. It’s rare for a pan bolt to break, unless it’s rusted severely. How do you think?
It you don't have problems with rust, dropping pan doesn't hurt anything.
If my vehicle had lower mileage, I would change the filter, but I’m currently at 210K miles and it’s an oil burning engine, so I make sure the transmission fluid is drain and refill at 15K interval with Toyota ATF. Will use Amsoil Signature Series ATF the next time I do a drain and refill and push the interval to 30K
I switched all of my cars' ATF from the Honda DW-1 and Aisin T-4 (same spec) with Amsoil OE ATF (same spec) which gives quicker and smoother shifts. I still drain and fill @ 15K or 30K miles, depending on the amount of miles driven per year and the driving conditions.
I did change the filter in my new-to-me VW's O9G automatic transmission made by Aisin because I didn't know how old it was and it had ZERO contaminants in it. I tightened the bolts with a torque wrench as always, so breaking them was not an issue. Now that I know I have a clean filter, I don't plan on changing it again.
I agree that if you ONLY drain and fill at scheduled intervals - or more frequently - with premium fluids, there will be no problems.
Allison transmissions use spin on filters & Chrysler truck transmissions use spin on filters along with the suction type up to 2019 I believe.
Yes, I know. Most of the truck transmissions have 2 filters
Older Subarus had 2 transmission filters.
I just bought a 2021 Ford Superduty F-350 7.3 big block 4.30 gears with the 10 speed transmission. I hope 🤞 the transmission proves durable . Amazing fuel ⛽️ economy with that trans . Gets better gas mileage than my 2018 Ram 6.4 6 speed trans .
Congratulations. Change transmission fluid every 30k-50k miles and you will be surprised how long it will last.
Honda’s don’t even have transmission filters just magnetic drain bolt
True. Not inside the transmission.
Not true. My 2005 Accord has replaceable ATF filter in the rubber hose line
Its a useless filter, it causes more harm than good if not replaced every 20k miles with fluid.
It’s about as Useless like any filter that’s not changed regularly. Mine went 218000 miles with zero transmission issues.
Awesome video. This is why I love RUclips!
I’ll probably change the filter on my Ram 1500 8 speed every other time. The ZF8 speed requires changing the whole pan to replace the filter.
If you want trouble free transmission, fluid change frequently is a must specially with 8 speed or more.
I agree with your position, I purchased a 2003 BMW 325 with 130,000 miles. I replaced the filter and oil on the lifetime no service transmission.The oil was in bad shape. The bottom of the oil pan collected some particles and sludge. I have since only changed the oil. I have driven the car 50,000 miles with no issues
Is there an update to this topic? Great information I would love to hear more..
I have plenty of videos on my channel regarding transmission
@@repairvehicle I have seen some. I have subscribed and scrolling. Thanks for the help
Thanks for sharing your expertise!
Hi sir I bought Kia Sorento 2013
6 speed engine and I want to know which kind of transmission fluid to put in the car 🚗
Here is the list of fluids compatible with your Sorento www.amsoil.com/lookup/auto-and-light-truck/2013/kia/sorento/3-5l-6-cyl-engine-code-2-h/?volume=us-volume&zo=5257753
On e92 bmws only resetting the adaptations will smooth out the drive. 125k and have never changed it.
What about fluid?
@@repairvehicle have never changed it. At around 100k, it got sluggish. Just reset the adaptations and runs like it had 30 miles on it when I bought it back then. It is a n51 engine.
So, your transmission has a lot of wear and that's why it got sluggish. Computer adjusted pressure by increasing, to minimize slipping.
@@repairvehicle I guess. I dont know.
I just bought a 2006 Toyota Camry with 85000 on it not sure if the fluid or filter has been changed but the fluid looks pretty clean just wondering if I could get by with just changing the fluid only
Answer in the video
Repair vehicle can you damage transmission if you change the fluid too soon, for example , say I change the transmission fluid and then I change it again 100 miles later is that bad ?
No.
I have a 2003 Toyota Corolla automatic transmission with about 200,000 that I just purchased I was wondering should I just drain and fill the transmission or do a complete flush?
Couple of drain and fills. Do not do flush, unless you want transmission problems
Some transmission filters are "metal" and cleanable (Toyota Rav4 I4), others are paper (Toyota Rav4 V6).
What do you have and mileage?
@@repairvehicle120K Miles. Dropped the pan as I needed to clean the shavings too.
As I know, 2008 toyota rav4 v6 is metal not paper
thank you for sharing the idea correct its only like a strainer just like the enduro bikes
I’ve always changed my trans fluid ever 65k. I just drain and fill. I realize this only changes about half the fluid but it’s always worked for me. I’ve never had a transmission problem. My ford 6.0L transmission had an external filter from the factory so I always changed it with the fluid. I’ve never had a transmission flush of any kind. I also like to add lubegard to my fluid. It may not do anything, I certainly don’t have any proof that it works. All my transmissions shift well and lubegard has never caused an issue.
For how long did you keep your 6.0?
@@repairvehicle I owned it from 68k to 338k. I bought it in 2008 and sold it ealier this year.
@nickthompson529 was it bulletproof? Any Engine repairs were done during your ownership?
@@repairvehicleI did the head gaskets, studded it and deleted the egr at 206k as preventative maintenance, although they never blew. I also added a mechanical fan clutch, and some other common small mods. It was tuned at 100k and stayed tuned until I sold it.
As far as repairs, I did the ficm twice, a full set of injectors but not all at the same time, the oil cooler was done under warrantee, & 2 high pressure oil pumps. Nothing on the engine itself just peripherals. The turbo was on its last legs when I sold it.
Very interesting thank you for taking the time to make the video.
Thank you.
I agree mostly. I only change the strainer if i have to drop a pan with no drain plug.
Wow, I think I will just continue to do drain and fills on my 2014 CVT, and then replace only the high pressure filter in the heater.
Wow your filter was at 220k miles and still seems good despite the fluid not being changed on time.
Just bought a 2011 toyota sienna with 170000 miles with no prior history of transmission oil change. Should I replace the filter or just the fluid. BTW transmission shifts smoothly with no issues.
Fluid as a bare minimum should replaced.
I changed the fluid and filter on a 2004 Dodge Ram for the first time and one bolt broke, so I ordered a new pan with a drain plug in it.
Aw yea. That filter still looks good and it was very tough of you trying to pry it open. The point of how hard it was to pull it open, shows the durability of how those trans filters can last a liftime (possibly). It wasn't cracked, dent or broken and it had very small particals from the transmission (glittery look) on the cushion. Some might think I'm crazy for saying this but. Hard plastic is tougher than aluminum, hence why pieces of fragments coming off the transmission, while the filter still looks good and not damaged. You would think that with the filter it catches things from the transmission, that the filter would look damaged or worn also. And pieces from the transmission, didn't do any affect or damage to the hard plastic of the filter. Aluminum is tougher than plastic, but then it isn't. Because plastic is stronger than aluminum, it doesn't wear down nowhere near as fast as aluminum. Aluminum typically last from 50 to 100 years, meaning some issues will happen soon in the very early years. All types of plastic (no matter what material it is) can last 400 to 450 years. Aluminum will age, wear and break down way faster than any type of plastic. I don't understand why the parts inside the transmission, aren't made with better durability (especially the gears). To where they won't wear out so fast and breaking down. I feel like cars should be made for lifetime "GURANTEED". With how expensive the parts are on the car. Yea you should still keep up with maintenance. But the most criticals part on the car, should be way more durable than it is. I just feel that the critical parts need to be made with a better different material, that's alot stronger. I'm sure alot of companies are looking into it in the near future or so.
I have a 2007 sequoia with 220000 miles and the fluid has never been flushed. There are no issues at this time. Should I change the fluid and filter or leave it?
If this was my suv, I would replace atf fluid as bear minimum. Unless I was not planning to keep then I would not change it.
Keep it that way. DON'T MESS WITH IT. If ain't broke, there's no reason for you to fixed it. Stay away from it. Keep it as is where is and enjoy your ride
Fluid is broken and needs changed. You are contradicting yourself
Excellent video, well explained.
Nice explanation. The transmission filter is clogged free for it is designed to filter out the sand size or even smaller elements. How about the particles that are captured by the magnets does it have for us to worry about?🤔
Answers in the video, watch video without skipping.
@@repairvehicle Thanks, I watched it all, I may have missed something. 🙂
@@edstonpesito9199, you not going to have much on the magnet if fluid changed often.
If my pan is already leaking (2010 Santa Fe AWD). Should I change the filter while I'm replacing the pan anyway?
Awesome question, answered already in the video. Thank you for commenting
Should you drop the pan when changing fluid or just let the tranny pump the fluid out of the return line at the radiator, keeping fresh fluid in tranny by adding 1.5 gallons befor starting the engine to pump old transmission fluid out. I have seen a few videos doing this. Is that safe?
It’s not safe.
Automatic Transmission Flush Facts and Fictions, why transmissions fail
ruclips.net/video/or9u8DQ4fVU/видео.html
I almost put my escaped in park will moving. It ground a little. Now my suv has some filing and stops moving. I check the side senser and it had fillings. Should I try changing the filter?
Yes I would change the filter
What is “garbage synetic fluid “ you speak of ? For trans ? I’ve never heard of any
Low price
My sienna has over 200k, same filter, same fluid. Although my tranny doesn’t shift in highest gear but so far so good. It might be time though to change.
It might be too late
This is great, so I just bought a 2006 Acura TSX with 154K miles and I don't know if they recently changed the fluid or filter and I'm hoping they used Honda Z-1 Transmission Fluid. Should I buy a 5 quart Honda Genuine ATM Z-1 Fluid and do several drain/fills in case they didn't use the Fluid that is recommended for Acuras? I have a pump Extractor too, rather than dropping the pan I'm thinking of using the pump to extract whatever doesn't come out of the pan.
you can use any quality compatible fluids.
would it be better to not change it and to just do a half and half old/new transmission fluid?
Answers here
ruclips.net/video/or9u8DQ4fVU/видео.html
My transmission hard to shift to third gear . Going tk replace the solenoid . Should replace the trock inverter too ?
Give me more details about your equipment and maintenance history
Good video but my question would be since you did observe metal fines in the filter media, how can you be sure filtration is still effective? Also, with a dipstick and I believe some vents too in an automatic transmission system, I'm not so sure these systems are not sealed as you say. I also know that my Highlander has magnet in the pan so if the pan is not dropped, there is no opportunity to check the magnets and clean them of fines. I can imagine a situation where the magnets may have fines on them to the point they are no longer attracting metal and have therefore stopped functioning. I think the bottom line for me is what is harm in the dropping the pan, changing that filter and cleaning the magnets. If the bolts are in good shape, shouldn't be an issue with those.
Answer in the video. Thank you for commenting
@@repairvehicle Yes. I watched it. It seems your observation the media is more open than oil filter media is somewhat subjective. What is the pore size in comparison for example? I would agree that with regular fluid changes, magnets could be fine, but would you agree that if a car has not had the fluid changed in 100k+ miles, it would be beneficial to drop the pan and proceed with filter change as necessary? Provided the pan bolts come off (which they should if corrosion free and pre-treating with PB Blaser) I can only seen the benefits in a case where the fluid was never changed (or deferred).
@mountainbiker4450 if you watched video without skipping then know the answer because I answered in the video. Thank you for taking time to watch the video and comment.
The TC-sst from the evo x mr and lancer ralliart also use 2 filters.
Great video! Proves that the filter is not worth changing. Just do the oil which has the fine particles.
Yup.
I bought a used Acura TL 2003 with DTC transmission code. I changed the outside filter and the code went away and shifts perfectly.
Why does my Qx4 has to warm up early in the morning before it can enter reverse gear? The same happens when I pack it for a long time in the day and engine cooled down .
Temperature sensor probably covered with dirty fluid or temperature sensor is malfunctioning
Please, where is the temperature sensor located?
Somewhere inside transmission more likely