I used method #1 with the variable I turned on my head lights, removed the negative battery cable let the car sit for 3 hours, then turned off head lights and all other systems in car, replaced the negative battery cable, started the car without using gas pedal, Let it idle till it reached operating temp. then took it for 45 minute drive... Worked like a charm for a 1996 Saturn Sl2
i cant believe all the negative comments . i would just like to say thanks for taking the time out to share this information which turned out to be very helpful to me and very informative. thank you very much.
I am not a mechanic, but I do have a degree in electrical engineering and build custom car audio systems. I would strongly recommend against tapping your positive terminal if you have a vehicle newer than 1999. The newer style electrical systems are way more sensitive to surging and you could damage quite expensive components.
Thank you so much!!! Am restoring a 95 Wrangler...don't have an obd 1 reader and don't want to wait 51 starts (or whatever) to verify my sensor replacements. You would think Jeep would mention this in their factory repair manual...oh well...worked like a charm in erasing old codes. Again, thank you sir!!!
Great video A.H. Thanks for making and sharing some people don’t get the reason for stating: “For informational use only” I do though if anyone else is Unclear of it just keep searching for methods that suit your needs for your car.
Mat man this is some awesome information you're revealing I think it's time to do some resetting and don't worry about them guys down there they're just mad because you posted the video First on RUclips woo.. we should be spit shining your shoes sir thank you
#4 is a HUGE no no.. Taping the positive cable to the positive terminal can fry the ecu in most OBDII cars. You should never hook up the positive cable AFTER the negative cable. It may not seem like it will hurt anything, and you may have done it in the past and had no issues (i'm guilty of this too) but even the slightest spark from the positive terminal can fry sensitive electronics.
For GM's that's probably the best way to do it(i've heard mixed reviews on fords and some imports).. Even on my 95 Jimmy (oddly enough has OBDII) it was the only way I could get my ECU to learn that I replaced my EGR and MAF. Since then it has ran like a champ...
I have an automotive shop and I would only recommend that you research a little more about resetting your ECM while having the ignition on as this can short your computer. Also while resetting your ECM does force your computer to "relearn" if you are injecting HHO before your mass air flow sensor, in oher words through your air intake, you should not have to have your computer "relearn" anything. Would like to hear back if you have any questions
I tried #2 - which resulted in a worse error - "loss of communication with ECM" and could never start the car again. Ended up taking it to the shop. Hopefully this didn't do any serious damage.
Why does my car keep saying reduced engine power service stabilitrak on my 2011 buick regal and then my traction control light comes on but goes off but my engine light stays on for a few days
in case of a hondas.. OBD1 ecm (before 1996)... its best to heat up the engine... then do the disconnect then idle 15 minutes or at least until the radiator fan turns on twice and important without touching any electrical device as much less the acelerator pedal... then turn off and it records values --- then after a few runs (days/weeks depending on how may start stop cycles take place) it will start to make final adjustments
I've noticed on some vehicles that spit a code back out that it seems to take 10-15 miles for the ecu to "re-learn" issues.. So I would say it would be the same for to "re-learn" modifications...
@AlmostHydrogen . Ya know, after I listened to ''Reset The ECM #1'' It got me wondering if by chance I would screw up my mpg's if I didn't drive it normally, or in other words if I was doing rolling stops at a sign, where you are still actually rolling & driving without paying attention to my driving & perhaps driving like I didn't care about how much gas I use or how much gas is per gallon. The reason I'm asking is, sometimes when I would work on my 2003 Ford F-150, [w/5.4L] whereas the Battery would be disconnected for hours or overnight. At any rate, most of the time I would average about 10 MPG. And that golden rule about driving normal for the 1st 50 miles, like I told whenever I bought a new vehicle. Well I wasn't doing that.[Let me stop right here a minute & Everyone should pay attention to what I have between these 3***, okay]Starting Here: ***I found a gas station [Marathon at the time]who'd always be selling Regular Gas at 5-10 cents a gallon cheaper than any other within a mile in either direction [which meant 3 other stations 2 in one direction & 1 in the other direction]. [But let me say this, he was always closer to 10 cents per gallon than 5 cents per gallon.] I usually bought my gas each & every week at ''Speedway'' because I like collecting the points. [I'm OCD so I just collect the points, I never use them BTW, it's just what I do, collect those stupid points.] At any rate, because of the 5-10 cent discount I started buying gas at this Independently Owned Marathon. Then I started to notice, at about my 2nd but for sure by the 3rd Tank of gas, my mileage dropped to 8 MPG, not 18 but 08 MPG. After about 2 months of this shit, I started getting my gas back at the Speedway [which included my Points, lol]. Now after the 2nd or 3rd Tank for sure, I started to get over 11.5 to 12 MPG. After that it would fluctuate, even up to 14 MPG which was unusually high for my vehicle [I'll contribute that to Speedway grabbing Premium if the Delivery Trucks had no more Regular, which does happen]. Still, I was always over 10 MPG. As it turns out, I happen to catch a delivery truck during his fuel drop back at that Marathon Station. I turned around & drove back to the station. Parked my truck & walked over to the driver & asked if he was dropping both Regular & Premium, [since there were both listed at the pumps I normally used]. All he said was, when he did the drop, he [meaning the owner of the station] was getting E-85. So unless the other fuel drops were actually regular, this guy was selling E-85 in place of Regular. It took a while probably a 3 month period but I was lucky enough to see the only other Driver [according to him] who was ever scheduled to Drop Fuel there & all I was told by that driver was, As for Premium, this Station only fills their 1-One Tank, so when it came to those ''Premium Only Folks'' Well, they were getting Regular, which is an ''Old School'' trick that station owners used to do but evidentially some still do. Now the following happened to my Wife back in July of 2019. She used a Credit Card to make a Gas Purchase & also went back in & made a separate ''In Store Purchase. 2 Weeks Later She got Her Statement. She Was Charged Twice For The In Store Purchase! Here's What The Credit Card Company Told her. ''Most of Our Monthly Dual Charges Are From Gas Stations Where They Own More Than One Location, We Just Don't Know If Both Locations Are Gas Stations.'' Notice That I Quoted What She Was Told... Notice Every Word Has A Capital Letter. Pay Attention To What I've Just Told You Because If You're Not Checking Each Gas Station Receipt, Chances Are, You May Be Getting Ripped Off. This Is Also True. Ever Wonder What Happens When A Tanker Returns With 500 Gallons Of Diesel Fuel Still In The Tanker When The Next Shipment Is Regular Grade Gas? They Just Leave It In The Tanker. I Worked With A Driver Who Worked For A Company Who Delivered Gasoline Whenever He Was Laid Off From The Company We Both Worked At, Imagine That The Next Time You Fill Up And Your Vehicle Runs Terrible.*** BTW, the strange thing is, both Gas Stations were Marathon, well the Dual Charge still is. I Believe The Older Station With The E-85 Thing Just Neglected To Take Down The Sign. I actually edited out the rest, only because it's not fair to classify what one station was doing by selling the E-85, while another Station was instantaneously sending a duplicate charge to another Station. only to make it look like all of them are doing it. Contact your State or County Department Of Weights & Measures, Better yet, make a complaint because Only Checking Every Gas Station Once A Year Isn't Right, or Good For Any Of Us. Oh Yeah, I'm Still Collecting My Points At Speedway, lol...................
I am a "little old lady." I went to an Advance Auto Parts store, and asked about resetting my truck's ECM. The salesperson had a hand held device to reset ECM. He did not open the hood. Perhaps this was a "soft reset." If it needs resetting within the next 48 hours, I will get my socket wrench out, and remove the battery cable. Thanks for your instructions. Ladies - words of caution-don't pay for an auto diagnosis. Let your auto parts store run a free diagnosis.
I see a lot of comments about people who did not know how to reset but do not see any comments about how after resetting they got better MPG.. Did any of you get better MPG from this reset or by adding this system to their ride? My bud was testing out some kits, was going to make his own to market, then never heard a peep back as in never panned out or was not any grand gains. The only MPG gains I have to date is from using premium over regular fuel, and then only certain stations do I get the bump, if they are ethanol free, I can get 5 mpg better in winter over regular in my 08 Torrent with 3.4 AWD.
hi you can also get in your car close the door. then put the key in the ignition turn to right before the lights in dashboard is on step the trottle all the way, wait a few seconds, turn the key back but leave it in the ignition and keep your foot on the speeder. door closed. wait 5 min. let go of the speeder and take the key out. open the door close it. lock the car and then unlock. open close door again. start the car and drive for a bit. that works have done it for years. learned it from a mercedes mechanic. sorry my spelling. have a nice day.
It's probably the same, or you can always disconnect the negative battery terminal for period of time (10 minutes or so) and reconnect. If you don't mind the hassle of resetting your clocks, etc.
@@Wes_5kyph1 to reset my PCM. I was told to disconnect negative. pump the accelerator 10 time. All kinds of stuff. It still want reset the PCM. So then I was told buy a new PCM.
@@Wes_5kyph1 because now it want crank. Was told the car computer needs to be reprogrammed to read the new parts and to erase all old memory. That's why it want crank. Put new starter on ran for 2 weeks then shut off. Changed fuel pump still wouldn't crank.
2012 chrysler 200 2.4. Changed fuel pump starter and complete brand new full a/C unit. Problems: no power to fuel box no fuses light up. In side car start but want crank. Red lighting bolt keeps coming on. Lights come on I can unlock my door, radio works. Spark plugs have no spark. I was told I needed fuel injectors or new ECM or I could reset the ECM by disconnecting battery. NOTHING! SO DO I NEED A NEW ECM. DONT KNOW WHICH PART I NEED. HELPPPPPPP MEEEEE.
After tapping the positive terminal 4 times , do you leave the key position in Accessory position or turn the key off then reconnect the positive terminal?
Hi Rich have a question for you my son's catalytic converter turn beat red started smoking underneath his car car I cut it off cleaned it out put it back on the car seems to be in limp mode and I can't seem to doubt it won't go over 40 miles an hour pushing it down hill it's a 2008 Grand Prix please help it's not worth putting too much money and do it just want to get them back and forth to school
You mention that you have a 1997 Ford Ranger. In order to reset the KAM (fords Acronym for Keep Alive Memory) without a scan tool, you will have to remove both battery cables and with them disconected jumper them together for 10 minutes or so. This will drain all of the capacitors. Being a Mechanic I usually have access to the proper scan tool, so I don't have to do it this way.
Keep alive kam memory is different then self learning bro. Either way this post/ video is bullish todays car computers are able to self adjust thru readings of various sensors.
haha I like how you scattered the emphasis of a word each time you mention the informational purposes sentence. Which reminds me of an instance I noticed the impact the simply emphasis of a word can have while I was living out west, I from here in the Carolinas. And it was the way this one fella used it in taco when saying taco bell. "TACO Bell" haha couldn't figure he had some speak impediment of sorts, he just loved his damn tacos or what. Till I heard someone else pronounce it. Drove me nuts! haha arrrg enjoyed the video, bud. cheers
So I have a 1999 Chevy Astro and my Check engine light does not light up when i turn on my vehicle. I do not have a burned out bulb since i removed the bulb and check to see it worked. So would you know how to fix this issue. I'm having problems on passing my smog check. I have only 3 sensors to clear and it seems to be taking a life time. The sensors on my emission reader, i think thats what its called or code reader shows that the "E", "C", and "EV". Hope you might be able to give me some information to go about to fixing this issue, of course it would be for "INFORMATIONAL PURPOSES ONLY". Thank you.
thank you very much for all this info I don't know if one of this steps will work on my tahoe 2004 5.3L If you can give me some advise wichone it will work better that would be great thank you very much
does anyone knows ? I have a 2010 f250 6.4 .. I just replaced the ECM and truck won't start.. is there any special procedure to be taken when replacing it. 😅???🥶🥶🥶🥶
The best bet for ANYBODY /ANY VEHICLE is to Google your specific vehicle's method of resetting the computer as many makes/models require a different method. It is also likely a reset is not going to fix your problem.
Good video! Thanks alot! I have been wanting to put HHO in ym car for a while but I new I had to fix my ECU somehow and had no idea what to do.... now I do.... Thanks!
I just bought a infinity g35 for my son an two days later ,it iddled rough while I was in drive with the brake on , it turned off an now will not start, fuel pump? Or is my relay on the fuel pump bad ?al so their is no pressure in the fuel line how can I fix this g35?
@rustyfan022000 Got the problem sorted out awhile back it was a solinoid valve in the gearbox that was faulty (if I remember right) causing the the car to shunt. think it was found with a T2 test (unsure)...
#6 - 1) Go to ANY local mechanics shop, have them plug in an OBD II code reader or compatible reader for you specific vehicle ,with a reset or CLEAR all codes option, into the diagnostic port on your car. 2) Have them clear the codes. 3) This will NOT fix any mechanical issues and codes will re-appear in time. 4) THIS IS FOR INFORMATIONAL PURPOSES ONLY
Just take your positive and negative terminals off battery, zip tie them together, for 1hr, or if possible, over night, this well clear everything, and reboot to factory settings. Information use only
Hello how you doing today Rick my name is Quincy I was wondering if you can answer a question I have a 2006 Nissan Quest and it keeps idling high and low
If my 2002 Dodge Caravan start with a homemade key and then turns off after 2 seconds is that part of the security Anti-Theft or is something else wrong with it 2002 Dodge Caravan I lost key
I highly recommend that you do not use method #4 tapping the pos wire to the battery wile the neg is hooked up will cause sparks and surges throu your electrical system and will damage sensitive parts ... specialy on newer cars with lots of computers that even a static shock from your fingers can damage
Would this unlock my pcm if a “tuner” has locked it? I’m trying to have my vehicle properly tuned but need it unlocked or I will have to buy a new one.
Don't know if you ever got a reply, but no, it will not unlock the tune. If you suspect someone has tuned your ECM with something like a Diablo Tuner, you'll have to buy one for your year and type vehicle and hope to God the tune isn't customized. Otherwise, a dealership would need to install the factory tune. Sometimes you need to purchase an unlock key for a Tuner from the manufacturer of the tuner.
Great video Steve and might I add to be very careful around the ECM/PCM as these systems use some very low voltages that are almost undetectable if you are not using the right multimeter or do not have a good engine ground. I suggest using a good autosenseing multimeter that will adjust from millivolts to volts, or to use a meter and start out at the lowest voltage setting. Also, be careful as some vehicles will use the negative lead to short out the ECM while others use the positive lead.
You looked around on the internet and found information. Then you made a video using the info and you want people to get permission before they display this CRAP!???
I have a 2008 saturn vue and I have problems with the radio does not work I ready change the BCM and Alternator and still not working...some one can help me plz??
Rick Chambers, do you think this reset will correct the error code p0700, transmission control module performance and code p0977, shift solenoid b control circuit high? Thank you.
Yes it worked on my Honda City 2003 . I remove the negative Terminal and left it for few hours and after that my Ride Acceleration was quite better and smooth
Of course.. Car's memory bank gets fed TO KNOW one way and now needs to decompress that info STORED in its CAPACITORS for so long. Needs to redownload its info & reset by you, its driver.
my question is my transmission is not shifting i just had the ingine rebuilt and drove it home from the mechanic shop about 75 miles and then next day engine light came on and now trans doesnt shift
Bad mechanic did not set trany right simple. Hapenned to me on a Buick century my transmission was running good until the engine trew a piston from the bottom of the motor while I was driving. This shitty mechanic told me I should do a overhaul in the transmission also i said no, i do not going to spend more money on rebuilding the whole car, sure enough 2 weeks later my transmission started shifting hard, the next thing it locked on me, i gave up junked the car, i was very upset my money went to the toilet, thanks to this evil mechanics that only think about making money and not fixing shit right. It's like intentionally want you to come back to their shops. Good luck my friend.
this is for informational purposes only! this is for informational purposes only! this is for informational purposes only! this is for informational purposes only! this is for informational purposes only!
Rick I have a 94 Cadillac DeVille and it starts and runs fine until it gets warm then if I press the gas pedal to much it cuts out sometimes dies and then it won't start until I let it cool down for about 12 to 24 hours can u please help I've changed the ect and I have fuel pressure I've been trying to figure it out for weeks please help
This was very helpful THANK YOU A MILLION TIMES,,,I HAD TO DEAL WITH ALOT OF FUCKERY WITH THESE BULLSHIT SHOPS & MECHANIC TRYING TO PULL A FAST ONE!!!!!!!!!
Here is how I fixed my battery replacement issue on my 2004 GMC/Chevy Yukon. 1. Remove the keys from the ignition. 2. Remove both the positive & negative battery cables. 3. Now hold the positive & negative battery cables together, so the metal ends are touching for 3 min. 4. Re-attached the positive & negative battery cables to the battery. 5. Let the car idle for 4min. 6. All should be back to normal. :}
Most people believe to reset(erase) the engine codes you also reset the pcm. Not true. You have to discharge the capacitors to reset the pcm. Rick Chambers advice is the safest because you have the battery disconnected. You could also do it with one cable disconnected by turning on the headlight switch for about 10 minutes. Don't worry about the time, just go have a cup of coffee. Then reconnect and drive around for 30 minutes like George Burns in that big old black car.
Could you turn up the volume some more on the intro "music?" My neighbor said he couldn't hear it clearly. (sarcasm off) It's ANNOYING AS SHIT and DOES NOT IMPRESS ANYONE.
Nicely edited video. I am grateful for the text and the mute button because the voice was like fingernails on a chalkboard. To Rick Chambers, thanks also for your input but putting your phone number in public forum is akin to a doctor doing the same, I am betting you have changed your number by now. Best to all.
![I.N "HALLUCINATION" | [Stray Kids : SKZ-PLAYER]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/n5B5q1Hwt_U/mqdefault.jpg)
I used method #1 with the variable I turned on my head lights, removed the negative battery cable let the car sit for 3 hours, then turned off head lights and all other systems in car, replaced the negative battery cable, started the car without using gas pedal, Let it idle till it reached operating temp. then took it for 45 minute drive... Worked like a charm for a 1996 Saturn Sl2
i cant believe all the negative comments . i would just like to say thanks for taking the time out to share this information which turned out to be very helpful to me and very informative. thank you very much.
Angel Rodriguez sorry didn't mean to hit those key's was day dream ing oops
Angel Rodriguez good says
I am not a mechanic, but I do have a degree in electrical engineering and build custom car audio systems. I would strongly recommend against tapping your positive terminal if you have a vehicle newer than 1999. The newer style electrical systems are way more sensitive to surging and you could damage quite expensive components.
By tapping you mean literally tapping it right?
@@benericsson5277 yeah, don’t make sparks, shorting or surging the main harness is generally bad
It’s suppose to be the negative cable
Thank you so much!!! Am restoring a 95 Wrangler...don't have an obd 1 reader and don't want to wait 51 starts (or whatever) to
verify my sensor replacements. You would think Jeep would mention this in their factory repair manual...oh well...worked like a charm in erasing old codes. Again, thank you sir!!!
Great video A.H. Thanks for making and sharing some people don’t get the reason for stating: “For informational use only” I do though if anyone else is Unclear of it just keep searching for methods that suit your needs for your car.
Mat man this is some awesome information you're revealing I think it's time to do some resetting and don't worry about them guys down there they're just mad because you posted the video First on RUclips woo.. we should be spit shining your shoes sir thank you
number 1 works to my car. thank you. I have a transmission problem... it solves the problem.
What car and what age was yours? Please share your info, I'm thinking of trying 1 too
#4 is a HUGE no no.. Taping the positive cable to the positive terminal can fry the ecu in most OBDII cars. You should never hook up the positive cable AFTER the negative cable. It may not seem like it will hurt anything, and you may have done it in the past and had no issues (i'm guilty of this too) but even the slightest spark from the positive terminal can fry sensitive electronics.
Please be careful.
This video is your ticket into Heaven. Everyone at Chrysler and Dodge is going straight to hell, probably in a taxi Hellcat driven by Satan!
You are "THE MAN" thank you ice wall baby "Informational purposes only"😉
For GM's that's probably the best way to do it(i've heard mixed reviews on fords and some imports).. Even on my 95 Jimmy (oddly enough has OBDII) it was the only way I could get my ECU to learn that I replaced my EGR and MAF. Since then it has ran like a champ...
I have an automotive shop and I would only recommend that you research a little more about resetting your ECM while having the ignition on as this can short your computer. Also while resetting your ECM does force your computer to "relearn" if you are injecting HHO before your mass air flow sensor, in oher words through your air intake, you should not have to have your computer "relearn" anything. Would like to hear back if you have any questions
I'm pretty sure he meant in the on position.
I tried #2 - which resulted in a worse error - "loss of communication with ECM" and could never start the car again. Ended up taking it to the shop. Hopefully this didn't do any serious damage.
A lot of stupid comments but all I got to say is IT WORKS FOR ME
more than once in different vehicles
Gus Worked For Me On My Caddi.
Why does my car keep saying reduced engine power service stabilitrak on my 2011 buick regal and then my traction control light comes on but goes off but my engine light stays on for a few days
in case of a hondas.. OBD1 ecm (before 1996)... its best to heat up the engine... then do the disconnect then idle 15 minutes or at least until the radiator fan turns on twice and important without touching any electrical device as much less the acelerator pedal... then turn off and it records values --- then after a few runs (days/weeks depending on how may start stop cycles take place) it will start to make final adjustments
What if you replaced the ecm in a cadillac and now anti theft won't start the car? Any help
I've noticed on some vehicles that spit a code back out that it seems to take 10-15 miles for the ecu to "re-learn" issues.. So I would say it would be the same for to "re-learn" modifications...
I'm really loving the music
That was great Steve.... I really enjoyed.
OH... This is for informational purposes only..
I was going to use this video for other than informational purposes, but I couldn't think of any.
@AlmostHydrogen . Ya know, after I listened to ''Reset The ECM #1'' It got me wondering if by chance I would screw up my mpg's if I didn't drive it normally, or in other words if I was doing rolling stops at a sign, where you are still actually rolling & driving without paying attention to my driving & perhaps driving like I didn't care about how much gas I use or how much gas is per gallon. The reason I'm asking is, sometimes when I would work on my 2003 Ford F-150, [w/5.4L] whereas the Battery would be disconnected for hours or overnight. At any rate, most of the time I would average about 10 MPG. And that golden rule about driving normal for the 1st 50 miles, like I told whenever I bought a new vehicle. Well I wasn't doing that.[Let me stop right here a minute & Everyone should pay attention to what I have between these 3***, okay]Starting Here: ***I found a gas station [Marathon at the time]who'd always be selling Regular Gas at 5-10 cents a gallon cheaper than any other within a mile in either direction [which meant 3 other stations 2 in one direction & 1 in the other direction]. [But let me say this, he was always closer to 10 cents per gallon than 5 cents per gallon.] I usually bought my gas each & every week at ''Speedway'' because I like collecting the points. [I'm OCD so I just collect the points, I never use them BTW, it's just what I do, collect those stupid points.] At any rate, because of the 5-10 cent discount I started buying gas at this Independently Owned Marathon. Then I started to notice, at about my 2nd but for sure by the 3rd Tank of gas, my mileage dropped to 8 MPG, not 18 but 08 MPG. After about 2 months of this shit, I started getting my gas back at the Speedway [which included my Points, lol]. Now after the 2nd or 3rd Tank for sure, I started to get over 11.5 to 12 MPG. After that it would fluctuate, even up to 14 MPG which was unusually high for my vehicle [I'll contribute that to Speedway grabbing Premium if the Delivery Trucks had no more Regular, which does happen]. Still, I was always over 10 MPG. As it turns out, I happen to catch a delivery truck during his fuel drop back at that Marathon Station. I turned around & drove back to the station. Parked my truck & walked over to the driver & asked if he was dropping both Regular & Premium, [since there were both listed at the pumps I normally used]. All he said was, when he did the drop, he [meaning the owner of the station] was getting E-85. So unless the other fuel drops were actually regular, this guy was selling E-85 in place of Regular. It took a while probably a 3 month period but I was lucky enough to see the only other Driver [according to him] who was ever scheduled to Drop Fuel there & all I was told by that driver was, As for Premium, this Station only fills their 1-One Tank, so when it came to those ''Premium Only Folks'' Well, they were getting Regular, which is an ''Old School'' trick that station owners used to do but evidentially some still do. Now the following happened to my Wife back in July of 2019. She used a Credit Card to make a Gas Purchase & also went back in & made a separate ''In Store Purchase. 2 Weeks Later She got Her Statement. She Was Charged Twice For The In Store Purchase! Here's What The Credit Card Company Told her. ''Most of Our Monthly Dual Charges Are From Gas Stations Where They Own More Than One Location, We Just Don't Know If Both Locations Are Gas Stations.'' Notice That I Quoted What She Was Told... Notice Every Word Has A Capital Letter. Pay Attention To What I've Just Told You Because If You're Not Checking Each Gas Station Receipt, Chances Are, You May Be Getting Ripped Off. This Is Also True. Ever Wonder What Happens When A Tanker Returns With 500 Gallons Of Diesel Fuel Still In The Tanker When The Next Shipment Is Regular Grade Gas? They Just Leave It In The Tanker. I Worked With A Driver Who Worked For A Company Who Delivered Gasoline Whenever He Was Laid Off From The Company We Both Worked At, Imagine That The Next Time You Fill Up And Your Vehicle Runs Terrible.*** BTW, the strange thing is, both Gas Stations were Marathon, well the Dual Charge still is. I Believe The Older Station With The E-85 Thing Just Neglected To Take Down The Sign. I actually edited out the rest, only because it's not fair to classify what one station was doing by selling the E-85, while another Station was instantaneously sending a duplicate charge to another Station. only to make it look like all of them are doing it. Contact your State or County Department Of Weights & Measures, Better yet, make a complaint because Only Checking Every Gas Station Once A Year Isn't Right, or Good For Any Of Us. Oh Yeah, I'm Still Collecting My Points At Speedway, lol...................
Very nice work and attention to the details. It is very much appreciated by me, as well as others in our community.
Thank you.
Lefty
I assume these procedures are for typical gas engines as well, yes ?
Hi, Are these 5 different ways to reset or should I do all 5 in order ?
Thank you so much
I am a "little old lady." I went to an Advance Auto Parts store, and asked about resetting my truck's ECM. The salesperson had a hand held device to reset ECM. He did not open the hood. Perhaps this was a "soft reset." If it needs resetting within the next 48 hours, I will get my socket wrench out, and remove the battery cable. Thanks for your instructions. Ladies - words of caution-don't pay for an auto diagnosis. Let your auto parts store run a free diagnosis.
Are you telling me to try this immediately, or is this only for informational purposes?
The info you have share with us is very useful, but does all this apply to the Ford Expedition 1999 model also?
Q Ivan Cooper
Is this the same as reprograming? Auto Zone gave me code P0302 and 83-13...replace spark plugs and reprogram ECM.
hi this is great but dont you still need o2 extenders and reset ecu/ecm?for questional puposes only. great work guys ,thanx
Great Info Worked Out Good Thanks Man.
I see a lot of comments about people who did not know how to reset but do not see any comments about how after resetting they got better MPG.. Did any of you get better MPG from this reset or by adding this system to their ride? My bud was testing out some kits, was going to make his own to market, then never heard a peep back as in never panned out or was not any grand gains. The only MPG gains I have to date is from using premium over regular fuel, and then only certain stations do I get the bump, if they are ethanol free, I can get 5 mpg better in winter over regular in my 08 Torrent with 3.4 AWD.
hi you can also get in your car close the door. then put the key in the ignition turn to right before the lights in dashboard is on step the trottle all the way, wait a few seconds, turn the key back but leave it in the ignition and keep your foot on the speeder. door closed. wait 5 min. let go of the speeder and take the key out. open the door close it. lock the car and then unlock. open close door again. start the car and drive for a bit. that works have done it for years. learned it from a mercedes mechanic. sorry my spelling. have a nice day.
can u help with 2006 4.8 chevy intalled new engine new starter and battery starter wont engage
Think that would work on 99 mustang convertible?
It's probably the same, or you can always disconnect the negative battery terminal for period of time (10 minutes or so) and reconnect. If you don't mind the hassle of resetting your clocks, etc.
Disconnected battery did not work on Chrysler 200
@@72dee did not work for what?
@@Wes_5kyph1 to reset my PCM. I was told to disconnect negative. pump the accelerator 10 time. All kinds of stuff. It still want reset the PCM. So then I was told buy a new PCM.
@@72dee but what was wrong to begin with? why did you need to reset pcm?
@@Wes_5kyph1 because now it want crank. Was told the car computer needs to be reprogrammed to read the new parts and to erase all old memory. That's why it want crank. Put new starter on ran for 2 weeks then shut off. Changed fuel pump still wouldn't crank.
Is this by any chance for informational purposes only?
Question what are these two plug-ins for on my 01 Mitsubishi Eclipse Spyder GT 3.0
I know this is for informational purposes only but will this work for a 2017 Chrysler 300c
2012 chrysler 200 2.4. Changed fuel pump starter and complete brand new full a/C unit. Problems: no power to fuel box no fuses light up. In side car start but want crank. Red lighting bolt keeps coming on. Lights come on I can unlock my door, radio works. Spark plugs have no spark. I was told I needed fuel injectors or new ECM or I could reset the ECM by disconnecting battery. NOTHING! SO DO I NEED A NEW ECM. DONT KNOW WHICH PART I NEED. HELPPPPPPP MEEEEE.
After tapping the positive terminal 4 times , do you leave the key position in Accessory position or turn the key off then reconnect the positive terminal?
Is this test for the old ecm or a new one
Thanks for this information. I will take this information and put this information in my brainpan.
Thanks man!
Hi Rich have a question for you my son's catalytic converter turn beat red started smoking underneath his car car I cut it off cleaned it out put it back on the car seems to be in limp mode and I can't seem to doubt it won't go over 40 miles an hour pushing it down hill it's a 2008 Grand Prix please help it's not worth putting too much money and do it just want to get them back and forth to school
You mention that you have a 1997 Ford Ranger. In order to reset the KAM (fords Acronym for Keep Alive Memory) without a scan tool, you will have to remove both battery cables and with them disconected jumper them together for 10 minutes or so. This will drain all of the capacitors. Being a Mechanic I usually have access to the proper scan tool, so I don't have to do it this way.
yeah this is the key, both the ECM and the PCM needs to be reset
Keep alive kam memory is different then self learning bro. Either way this post/ video is bullish todays car computers are able to self adjust thru readings of various sensors.
haha I like how you scattered the emphasis of a word each time you mention the informational purposes sentence. Which reminds me of an instance I noticed the impact the simply emphasis of a word can have while I was living out west, I from here in the Carolinas. And it was the way this one fella used it in taco when saying taco bell. "TACO Bell" haha couldn't figure he had some speak impediment of sorts, he just loved his damn tacos or what. Till I heard someone else pronounce it. Drove me nuts! haha arrrg enjoyed the video, bud. cheers
So I have a 1999 Chevy Astro and my Check engine light does not light up when i turn on my vehicle. I do not have a burned out bulb since i removed the bulb and check to see it worked. So would you know how to fix this issue. I'm having problems on passing my smog check. I have only 3 sensors to clear and it seems to be taking a life time. The sensors on my emission reader, i think thats what its called or code reader shows that the "E", "C", and "EV". Hope you might be able to give me some information to go about to fixing this issue, of course it would be for "INFORMATIONAL PURPOSES ONLY". Thank you.
thank you very much for all this info I don't know if one of this steps will work on my tahoe 2004 5.3L If you can give me some advise wichone it will work better that would be great thank you very much
Did it work? If so....which method? Thanks
is reprogramming and resetting the same thing?
My car has old codes that still come up even after car has been fixed. Any way to fix this?
does anyone knows ?
I have a 2010 f250 6.4 .. I just replaced the ECM and truck won't start.. is there any special procedure to be taken when replacing it. 😅???🥶🥶🥶🥶
The best bet for ANYBODY /ANY VEHICLE is to Google your specific vehicle's method of resetting the computer as many makes/models require a different method. It is also likely a reset is not going to fix your problem.
Good video! Thanks alot! I have been wanting to put HHO in ym car for a while but I new I had to fix my ECU somehow and had no idea what to do.... now I do.... Thanks!
watch without SOUND. ; D
I think you are AWESOME! Thank you, and it is for informational purposes only! lol
Mayed my day
Nice video man,.. will this work for the electric throttle body relearn as well ?
thx, sir first, video thats explains proper way
I just bought a infinity g35 for my son an two days later ,it iddled rough while I was in drive with the brake on , it turned off an now will not start, fuel pump? Or is my relay on the fuel pump bad ?al so their is no pressure in the fuel line how can I fix this g35?
Thanks for the tips will try.
This is for informational purposes only!🤪
Good INFORMATION ONLY for so many folks. Would be nice if it works!
@rustyfan022000 Got the problem sorted out awhile back it was a solinoid valve in the gearbox that was faulty (if I remember right) causing the the car to shunt. think it was found with a T2 test (unsure)...
Very good information! Margie
#6 - 1) Go to ANY local mechanics shop, have them plug in an OBD II code reader or compatible reader for you specific vehicle ,with a reset or CLEAR all codes option, into the diagnostic port on your car.
2) Have them clear the codes.
3) This will NOT fix any mechanical issues and codes will re-appear in time.
4) THIS IS FOR INFORMATIONAL PURPOSES ONLY
Just take your positive and negative terminals off battery, zip tie them together, for 1hr, or if possible, over night, this well clear everything, and reboot to factory settings.
Information use only
@@anthonybennallack9087 not always..... and my buddy fried his ECU doing that! Back yard ways buddy - - - back yard mechanic
ways
Hello how you doing today Rick my name is Quincy I was wondering if you can answer a question I have a 2006 Nissan Quest and it keeps idling high and low
does this reset the temperature so it doesn't fake the density of the air outside so car can start possibly a fuel pump problem too
Thx man. Going to try it in the morning!
Sir will that also work for my Nissan Altima S 2014? I follow those instructions to reset the ECM?
Same 4 Replacement also?
If my 2002 Dodge Caravan start with a homemade key and then turns off after 2 seconds is that part of the security Anti-Theft or is something else wrong with it 2002 Dodge Caravan I lost key
I put in 8new injectors and injectors 2,7 still steady spraying. Do y’all think my computer is bad in the truck
hey this is off topic but what band is playing the music in your video its awesome..........?
The band is 12 Stones and the song is Broken.
Nicholas Loock "Broken," literally. ..
I highly recommend that you do not use method #4 tapping the pos wire to the battery wile the neg is hooked up will cause sparks and surges throu your electrical system and will damage sensitive parts ... specialy on newer cars with lots of computers that even a static shock from your fingers can damage
Could also spark an explosion
Would this unlock my pcm if a “tuner” has locked it? I’m trying to have my vehicle properly tuned but need it unlocked or I will have to buy a new one.
Don't know if you ever got a reply, but no, it will not unlock the tune. If you suspect someone has tuned your ECM with something like a Diablo Tuner, you'll have to buy one for your year and type vehicle and hope to God the tune isn't customized. Otherwise, a dealership would need to install the factory tune. Sometimes you need to purchase an unlock key for a Tuner from the manufacturer of the tuner.
My 2002 Dodge Caravan I lost the key which is a security key how do I bypass the security or disable it to put in a homemade key
Great video Steve and might I add to be very careful around the ECM/PCM as these systems use some very low voltages that are almost undetectable if you are not using the right multimeter or do not have a good engine ground.
I suggest using a good autosenseing multimeter that will adjust from millivolts to volts, or to use a meter and start out at the lowest voltage setting.
Also, be careful as some vehicles will use the negative lead to short out the ECM while others use the positive lead.
Replacing o2 sensors tomorrow. I think I'll pull the fuses AND disconnect the battery. 👍
You looked around on the internet and found information. Then you made a video using the info and you want people to get permission before they display this CRAP!???
Joseph McCue lol informational purposes only!
thanks it worked.
I have a 2008 saturn vue and I have problems with the radio does not work I ready change the BCM and Alternator and still not working...some one can help me plz??
Rick Chambers, do you think this reset will correct the error code p0700, transmission control module performance and code p0977, shift solenoid b control circuit high? Thank you.
IT WORKED!
Thanks for the info. But was this for information purposes only?
So did anyone try one of these tips and actually work for their vehicle? If so let me know the year and make. Thanks
Yes it worked on my Honda City 2003 . I remove the negative Terminal and left it for few hours and after that my Ride Acceleration was quite better and smooth
Yes 2002 dodge dakota
Of course.. Car's memory bank gets fed TO KNOW one way and now needs to decompress that info STORED in its CAPACITORS for so long. Needs to redownload its info & reset by you, its driver.
my question is my transmission is not shifting i just had the ingine rebuilt and drove it home from the mechanic shop about 75 miles and then next day engine light came on and now trans doesnt shift
Bad mechanic did not set trany right simple. Hapenned to me on a Buick century my transmission was running good until the engine trew a piston from the bottom of the motor while I was driving. This shitty mechanic told me I should do a overhaul in the transmission also i said no, i do not going to spend more money on rebuilding the whole car, sure enough 2 weeks later my transmission started shifting hard, the next thing it locked on me, i gave up junked the car, i was very upset my money went to the toilet, thanks to this evil mechanics that only think about making money and not fixing shit right. It's like intentionally want you to come back to their shops. Good luck my friend.
this is for informational purposes only! this is for informational purposes only! this is for informational purposes only! this is for informational purposes only! this is for informational purposes only!
Rick I have a 94 Cadillac DeVille and it starts and runs fine until it gets warm then if I press the gas pedal to much it cuts out sometimes dies and then it won't start until I let it cool down for about 12 to 24 hours can u please help I've changed the ect and I have fuel pressure I've been trying to figure it out for weeks please help
thats keeping it simple and very possible. you have to understand how the electronics in your car work and function.
Thank you for information that is for " informational purposes only "
exactly what i needed. YOU SHOULD PUBLISH A BOOK WITH ALL THE INFO YOU HAVE :)!
Pls help my previous owner has Incorrectly coded my ecm What can i do
This was very helpful THANK YOU A MILLION TIMES,,,I HAD TO DEAL WITH ALOT OF FUCKERY WITH THESE BULLSHIT SHOPS & MECHANIC TRYING TO PULL A FAST ONE!!!!!!!!!
I'm not sure? Was this info for educational purposes?
Here is how I fixed my battery replacement issue on my 2004 GMC/Chevy Yukon.
1. Remove the keys from the ignition.
2. Remove both the positive & negative battery cables.
3. Now hold the positive & negative battery cables together, so the metal ends are touching for 3 min.
4. Re-attached the positive & negative battery cables to the battery. 5. Let the car idle for 4min. 6. All should be back to normal. :}
Thank you very much for this video!!! Option 3 worked for me!!!
Will this undo a delete ?
Most people believe to reset(erase) the engine codes you also reset the pcm. Not true. You have to discharge the capacitors to reset the pcm. Rick Chambers advice is the safest because you have the battery disconnected. You could also do it with one cable disconnected by turning on the headlight switch for about 10 minutes. Don't worry about the time, just go have a cup of coffee. Then reconnect and drive around for 30 minutes like George Burns in that big old black car.
Love this video and it does have a lot of info to it
Is this for informational purposes only? Just asking as you weren't clear on that
Would this apply to older models like and '83?
carl fisher no only on obd2 vehicles 96 and up
Could you turn up the volume some more on the intro "music?" My neighbor said he couldn't hear it clearly. (sarcasm off)
It's ANNOYING AS SHIT and DOES NOT IMPRESS ANYONE.
Isn't this the reason they say to inject the hydrogen AFTER the MAF sensor so it won't do what you say?
I just wasted 5:50 mins of my life that I'll never get back. Thanks!
Nicely edited video. I am grateful for the text and the mute button because the voice was like fingernails on a chalkboard. To Rick Chambers, thanks also for your input but putting your phone number in public forum is akin to a doctor doing the same, I am betting you have changed your number by now. Best to all.