Honestly I take my hat off too you. I feel there’s too much secretively in all hobbies and Motorsport. I’m into drag racing also and own a very quick drag car. If someone comes up too me and asks about it. If they want to listen I’ll tell them everything. I feel it can only grow a sport by sharing knowledge. And gives that person some hope in the sport they love. Keep it up.
I agree whole heartedly.used ti drag race 20yrs ago with a few buddies and people were always asking what we had done to our vehicles.most of the time id wait till end of night so people didn't know what we were all working with but once the races were over my buddies and myself would pretty much go over everything we did from the ground up.like you said if people were actually interested and truely wanted to know what we did we'd all sit there and talk for hours about our setup.sometimes it would backfire on us.by that I mean one week we destroy our competition but the following week or 2 we'd notice we were getting beat by those same guys that were interested in our setups.shoildnt say it backfired cause once those guys got faster and started beating us that just made us step up our game and do something else to our rides to pull off even faster runs but thats what made it fun.faster everyone else got meant you had to keep changing things up to try being one of the best at our local track.god I miss those days.just don't miss working 2 jobs just so I could continue to afford to fix everything that either broke or blew up especially since a few of us,myself included raced our daily driver vehicles.wouldnt even consider racing a daily driver now with the difference in cost these days compared to 20yrs ago.hell when I raced I could run a whole night and drive home with around 50 to 60 bucks in fuel.now it'd probably cost 5 times that just in fuel prices.
Yeah man this hobby is really not so friendly to newbies people don’t in this hobby don’t really like sharing their tips and tricks there’s few people that will help out the newbies but mostly they have to learn the hard way
@@miguelgaviria5836 thats one of the main reasons I'm a subscriber to Razs channel.hes a stand up guy not to mention he's always willing to help anyone out with problems theyre having with their setups.hell I know the perfect pass him and his buddy developed helped me out a lot with keeping my slash in a straight line.dont think there's too many people that get into rcs that actually know how much money you can spend on one of these things to be able to approach speeds in excess of 140mph.just bought a 2nd motor for my 2wd slash in hopes I can put that up over 130mph so with this new tp motor ill have roughly $2500 tied up into my slash.stuffs not cheap but damn is it fun.lmfao
@@richardsalinetrojr1957 that’s some crazy stuff yeah I never really been the type of dude to make project builds because I spend more money breaking my rcs then building them up 😂 but I’ve wanted to make a 2wd stampede build with the old monster mutt stampede and Raz was really helpful with his torque twist video and everything that’s he’s explained has helped a lot
@@miguelgaviria5836 see thats where my problem with building cars of any sort is.i try to build them as nice as possible and as fast as possible so always spending money on the best products I can get hence the reason I sometimes afraid to push my slash.funny how these guys like Raz keep there cool when whipping out at 140+.if that happened if be pissed because of the money i have tied up into mine.willing to bet a lot of people on here would have my slash as a shelf piece instead of using it for the way I have it built and setup for.granted it takes a good amount of money but the money I spend on my rc hobby isn't anything compared to money I used to spend on stupid stuff like drugs in my younger years.i traded one addiction for several(rc vehicles,watches,guns and shoes) but at least the addictions I have now won't kill me,only kills my wallet.lol
I had the same problem in one of my 8s bashers I ended up ordering tooled steel rods from China that was .5mm larger and cut them myself and then pressed them into the shaft and they never broke again👍🤙
Maybe Kevin Talbot is really on to something with his direct drive setup. That slim line carbon fiber body is incredible. Can't wait to see what's next.
Raz, again, I know you probably won't read this, but your main issue here is *too much* torque. Get rid of the second motor. If you want more speed on this setup then use a 2 or 3 speed pinion/clutch bell setup. And that pinion bearing blowing out, is most likely the axial balance of the shaft - Which cannot be maintained using those type of universal joints. You will want to go back the one-piece shaft setup, and a collar + bearing setup similar to your center diff setup right at each end of the shaft before the u-joint. And at those speeds you need a higher abec rating of bearings so that there is not enough play for the out-of-balance rotating assemblies to beat the bearings and bearing shoulders to death. Also, without careful shimming and the right grease, chances are that the high torque levels are distorting your diff cases too. Good luck.
One thing you might try is having a center driveline and spool machined all in one piece on a lathe. You'd likely have to detach your rear bulkhead to get it put in but you could have it balanced really well and use a center support bearing to minimize flex under torque. It seems like dogbones are not going to work and u-joints aren't working... Those were nice couplers idk if you can get stronger ones or not. I wonder if Scorched or someone else would be willing to do the machining and balancing on a complete, one-piece titanium (or 7075?) center driveline with the diff input cups removed and incorporated into the center shaft. Wouldn't hurt to ask I guess. This project has been a lot of fun to watch. Keep up the innovative thinking, bro! You're killing it out there!
What if you get rid of those metal pins, drill a hole in it and put there a small piece of carbon fibre stick instead. I'm not an expert when it comes to RC cars, but I work with carbon and it can take some beating. It might be worth a try.
@@digimaks that’s good too but…. The fastest video signal with the least delay is the newest DJI VR’s but…. Idk if the human eye is fast enough to react to anything over just 60 mph on the ground IMO vs a drone in the air with lots of range for reaction time. A drone can stop much faster or swerve to the side than a ground vehicle going over 100 mph, one small slip and it’s guarantee to crash… I have a stock Felony and I have not reached 80 mph bcs I’m not as good as I was at the age of 20 lol maybe your much better than I am right now.. have you done speed runs with a vr before?? I seen videos on RUclips of a kid that races his rc car on the highway doing 100+ he speeds past police cars and makes them chase him and he outruns them!! The video footage is awesome!!
Why did you title your video in Kmh all of a sudden? You should keep it in Mph, this way there's no confusion of what speeds your really hitting. I had to go and convert the number on Google. 😁😁 Nonetheless, great video as always!! 👍 Keep them coming!
@@julius1251 Very true.👍 Some people calculate in Kmh and other in Mph. Another good example is, I use Fahrenheit to measure temperature, but my good friend uses Celsius.
I might have missed something from an earlier video, but I was wondering, was there a specific reason you've chosen to link the two motors to a common driveshaft as opposed to doing away with the central drive shaft altogether? I would have figured, perhaps, the simpler way would have been to have one motor power the front axel with the other powering the rear, and forget about the center driveshaft altogether. Just my two cents, I don't know anything lol
The problem with that is it'll be very unstable front to rear. If either the front or rear suspension unloads, it'll shatter everything with the sheer speed. It's honestly worse than an open diff
As far as the drive shafts you’re on you’re own. I’m having the same issue myself on 8s with dual leopard motors on 2 XLX’s. I’m waiting on you to hopefully build us a tank driveshaft, Lol. I would get some thinner/lighter/batteries and put them on their side and you could possibly fit a delta plastics body. Also you could put a different chassis brace that holds 2 XLX2’s above the motors and batteries like I did. Keep up the awesome content. Entertaining as always. 👍
No the reciever is not junk. Aloft hobbys sells replacement and extended antennas for futaba. I change them all the time takes 3 minutes. Nice video and build. Have u ever thought making driveshaft brace with bearing.
I have those shoes as well! They’re so comfortable! Love your content raz, I started flying Fpv drones 4 years ago, and now getting into rc cars as well
Raz your a brave man to keep doing this, and though i know nothing about speed running i do think what you said, a bit smaller, much lighter, a pair of 4s lipo`s less weight equals less stress on the parts and maybe more speed, keep at it man
Not now mom!🤭👍🏽 love it! Guess it wasn't important otherwise she would hope called. Back immediately. But great recovery coming back and avoiding the grass. I would've crashed. I'm having radio reception issues. I see you're using Futaba. Nice!
Maybe the cv joints would hold up if you had 1 or 2 support bearings in the middle of the shafts. At least they would keep the shaft from tearing your car apart when it breaks.
Maybe one motor drives the front and the second drives the rear. Maybe that would fix the issue. Also perhaps the motor could be mounted right next to the diff.
Could you add a small camera on the body and use a set of drone goggles to help you steer it at high speeds. POV works well once you get use to it . Just a thought ?
Awesome video once again. Have you considered adding support bearings along the length of the shafts? Might have to be creative in making up a pillow block bearing, but could make a huge difference.
Hey man. This is awesome!! Wish I could afford to build one right Now! I was thinking... What if you made a straight "low" shaft like you did at the beginning w/ no joints and replace the gears with pulleys. You'd have to flip the motors around and make a belt tensioner on the face of the motor mount plate....but, what do you think?
Trial and error brother, that is the best way to learn. I applaud your effort and ingenuity. Is it the overall speed of the shaft causing the fault or is it the power used getting the car up to speed creating the fault? If not either of those 2 what do you think is causing it? I'm sure you've thought about it and if you've mentioned it in a video my apologies I missed it, but, Is there a way to program the esc to more gradually apply the power if the latter is the issue with the shaft faults?
have you used any hall effect sensors with the motors? You may well be better able to control the level of torque placed on the drive shaft under heavy acceleration is all i'm thinking
Given the length of the rear shaft, would it be worth supporting it by running it through a bearing at the mid point? At the very least, it would help to prevent the driveshaft thrashing about inside (which could potentially lead to further damage).
You need to learn from what the full-size speed record people do: dial the power right back and build up slowly. Turn the Throttles down and run it at 25% power, get everything running sweet then build the power up to 35% and so on. You also need to put some carrier bearings on those shafts otherwise they will just shake themselves apart. Single steps at a time otherwise you end up chasing issues round in circles.
i agree the footage would look amazing but i also would have concerns of how the camra would add wieght and thus slow it down and lets face it a camra isnt exackly aroedyamic to just plop on top of the rc car and far as i know or understand they still have to have everything else inside the rc car to function and work right and thats assumming everything can survive and be durable enough for the expected weare and teare of its use and gosh forbid should it go out of controll and crash into a wall for what ever resion theres far as i pacifily know of that there be no garuintee any footage survives givin the goal speed and its current speed
Did you have the joints phased? Kinda hard to tell but I dont think you had them phased. Thats probably where your vibration was coming from and possibly why one failed. Maybe try again when they are phased and see how it does. Phased basically means the joints are aligned.
It's been a great project to watch Raz, I've really enjoyed the content. Real life drag cars and hot rods have metal loops around their drive shafts, something to consider. I reckon the chassis could be a bit longer and possibly put a vertical stabiliser fin up front to help it stay straight. Thanks for the entertainment, looking forward to whatever comes next.
You inspired me to design and build my own rc car with the goal of reaching 200mph plus. I am going to keep it small using 550 motor with 3S, and weighing under 3 pounds.
you could make the solid shaft work you just have to add 2 more gears to make up the height difference or a bigger gear on the shaft. also put U bolts over the driveshaft to make a cage like they do in race cars
Maybe try to have someone weld the shaft to the rear and front gear diffs and have them balanced. Try to only use the universal joints closer to the spool. Maybe too many pivot points. I don't believe anyone is doing anything as good as you are right now. Good videos and enjoy watching.
Did you try running a bearing with a mount to the chassis in the center of front n rear shafts and for the u joints try to see what mip have or can make for you coz min is a proven cvd platform the one you have look like low budget joints which I understand for a experiment
Thankyou sir I was actually pondering making a solid shaft and I had thought of that problem too but was about to try it anyway! I actually make my own dog bones and weld the pins in. It works I keep having my diff cups come lose.
Ah km/h style now , 250 is pretty fast. The car has a lot of power and shafts are breaking, because of the force or speed ? What speed/rpm are the wheels doing with no load ?
can you try to make the drivetrain completely flat without any angle on the driveshaft ?so you can connect the diff gear and the shaft together can you lower the center spool ? by using another motor mount ? ( for exemple look at the rear connector on the hobao hyper 9e/ hyper star-e , there is no driveshaft to connect the center and the rear diff )
flip a motor so they spin opposite directions (one for front wheels one for back, use reverse gearing) the motors spinning are going to cause huge centrifugal force.
How about running 6s? Or/And a belt drive train such as a Serpent 977e or Serpent 998e? Keep testing! Great work! hmm... The Serpent was designed for a single motor; however, maybe design a dual motor belt drivetrain. Maybe extras pillow block by the differentials?
hi raz . iv been looking at your vid .and youv solved half of the issue. because the drive shafts have rotating mass the front one held because it short . the back one has more mass so under big load it will start to bend in the middle which puts load on the ujount . if you were to put two more shaft moute on the back shaft you will make the mass less because the shaft has saported and will not bend with the mass . then you put stress on the ujount only .allso to help you you need a rolling platform so you can set up the car and see if you mods can handle it with out going out on the raod every time you need to test , hope this helps , let me know ??
When a u-joint is used, the driveshaft lengthens and shortens as it goes around. There needs to be a spline at one end or the other to allow this to happen. That is why it broke, the joint kept pulling and pushing until it gave way.
@@sharkeyist Maybe those joints just can't take the load and the rpm, either. They really look nice, though, sitting at the end of each shaft. I think they are more suited for shafts on small CNC machines that are running at slower rpms. Raz is really spinning the crap out of those shafts.
@@mauricerandall1216 yeah, at the rpms hes pulling anything involved needs to be super accurately made n balanced. Bigger wheels would help alot but make it a start again job regards susp, chass etc changes needed to suit.
Honestly I take my hat off too you. I feel there’s too much secretively in all hobbies and Motorsport. I’m into drag racing also and own a very quick drag car. If someone comes up too me and asks about it. If they want to listen I’ll tell them everything. I feel it can only grow a sport by sharing knowledge. And gives that person some hope in the sport they love.
Keep it up.
I agree whole heartedly.used ti drag race 20yrs ago with a few buddies and people were always asking what we had done to our vehicles.most of the time id wait till end of night so people didn't know what we were all working with but once the races were over my buddies and myself would pretty much go over everything we did from the ground up.like you said if people were actually interested and truely wanted to know what we did we'd all sit there and talk for hours about our setup.sometimes it would backfire on us.by that I mean one week we destroy our competition but the following week or 2 we'd notice we were getting beat by those same guys that were interested in our setups.shoildnt say it backfired cause once those guys got faster and started beating us that just made us step up our game and do something else to our rides to pull off even faster runs but thats what made it fun.faster everyone else got meant you had to keep changing things up to try being one of the best at our local track.god I miss those days.just don't miss working 2 jobs just so I could continue to afford to fix everything that either broke or blew up especially since a few of us,myself included raced our daily driver vehicles.wouldnt even consider racing a daily driver now with the difference in cost these days compared to 20yrs ago.hell when I raced I could run a whole night and drive home with around 50 to 60 bucks in fuel.now it'd probably cost 5 times that just in fuel prices.
Yeah man this hobby is really not so friendly to newbies people don’t in this hobby don’t really like sharing their tips and tricks there’s few people that will help out the newbies but mostly they have to learn the hard way
@@miguelgaviria5836 thats one of the main reasons I'm a subscriber to Razs channel.hes a stand up guy not to mention he's always willing to help anyone out with problems theyre having with their setups.hell I know the perfect pass him and his buddy developed helped me out a lot with keeping my slash in a straight line.dont think there's too many people that get into rcs that actually know how much money you can spend on one of these things to be able to approach speeds in excess of 140mph.just bought a 2nd motor for my 2wd slash in hopes I can put that up over 130mph so with this new tp motor ill have roughly $2500 tied up into my slash.stuffs not cheap but damn is it fun.lmfao
@@richardsalinetrojr1957 that’s some crazy stuff yeah I never really been the type of dude to make project builds because I spend more money breaking my rcs then building them up 😂 but I’ve wanted to make a 2wd stampede build with the old monster mutt stampede and Raz was really helpful with his torque twist video and everything that’s he’s explained has helped a lot
@@miguelgaviria5836 see thats where my problem with building cars of any sort is.i try to build them as nice as possible and as fast as possible so always spending money on the best products I can get hence the reason I sometimes afraid to push my slash.funny how these guys like Raz keep there cool when whipping out at 140+.if that happened if be pissed because of the money i have tied up into mine.willing to bet a lot of people on here would have my slash as a shelf piece instead of using it for the way I have it built and setup for.granted it takes a good amount of money but the money I spend on my rc hobby isn't anything compared to money I used to spend on stupid stuff like drugs in my younger years.i traded one addiction for several(rc vehicles,watches,guns and shoes) but at least the addictions I have now won't kill me,only kills my wallet.lol
You need to add drive shaft safety loops to keep it from flopping around when it breaks.
This is a good idea. A couple of strategically placed looped and mounted zip ties would probably suffice.
Yes to the drive shaft loops
Yes
The weight is the shaft problem not the hp. Try to use Smc v2 4000mah!!! Problem solved.
Great suggestion:)
Crazy how much power this car has💪💪💪
I had the same problem in one of my 8s bashers I ended up ordering tooled steel rods from China that was .5mm larger and cut them myself and then pressed them into the shaft and they never broke again👍🤙
Maybe Kevin Talbot is really on to something with his direct drive setup. That slim line carbon fiber body is incredible. Can't wait to see what's next.
I agree, lose the shafts and go direct drive.
unsprung masses are critical with dd.
It could be the vibration from the shaft that is killing it. I love this channel!
Sir,you never "not now"mom.
Only if your playing with Rc cars👍🏼😅
I was thinking the same thing...
Hahaha
except when you are driving over 200:)
Lmao
Raz, again, I know you probably won't read this, but your main issue here is *too much* torque. Get rid of the second motor. If you want more speed on this setup then use a 2 or 3 speed pinion/clutch bell setup. And that pinion bearing blowing out, is most likely the axial balance of the shaft - Which cannot be maintained using those type of universal joints. You will want to go back the one-piece shaft setup, and a collar + bearing setup similar to your center diff setup right at each end of the shaft before the u-joint. And at those speeds you need a higher abec rating of bearings so that there is not enough play for the out-of-balance rotating assemblies to beat the bearings and bearing shoulders to death. Also, without careful shimming and the right grease, chances are that the high torque levels are distorting your diff cases too. Good luck.
Hello, what is the application to measure the speed that you use?
Two motors would be great for an off-road rc car. Your build is amazing!!
Ur builds are always so clean! Nice work man.
Where's Kevin saying more power will fix it, lol When in doubt, flat out!
Damnit.... don’t give up! This series is great and I wanna see u break 200mph! U can do it!😁👍
One thing you might try is having a center driveline and spool machined all in one piece on a lathe. You'd likely have to detach your rear bulkhead to get it put in but you could have it balanced really well and use a center support bearing to minimize flex under torque. It seems like dogbones are not going to work and u-joints aren't working... Those were nice couplers idk if you can get stronger ones or not. I wonder if Scorched or someone else would be willing to do the machining and balancing on a complete, one-piece titanium (or 7075?) center driveline with the diff input cups removed and incorporated into the center shaft. Wouldn't hurt to ask I guess. This project has been a lot of fun to watch. Keep up the innovative thinking, bro! You're killing it out there!
This video is definitely not what I thought it was going to be clickbait all day long
Hypothesis: to use titanium shafts to reduces the rotating mass. It’s about 50% lighter than standard steel equivalent.
They are titanium.
Problem is the pins, not the shaft.
What if you get rid of those metal pins, drill a hole in it and put there a small piece of carbon fibre stick instead. I'm not an expert when it comes to RC cars, but I work with carbon and it can take some beating. It might be worth a try.
@@vojtechkamenicky carbon isn't usually as good in sheer situations though. They're good for compression, tension, and twisting but not sheer afaik
I have to say, I love the way your cars look! All detailed and the way everything is set up just looks amazing!
you should use smoke petards so you can see if he's going straight : )
He need VR camera like on drones. It's way to fast to control at such distance.
@@digimaks that’s good too but…. The fastest video signal with the least delay is the newest DJI VR’s but…. Idk if the human eye is fast enough to react to anything over just 60 mph on the ground IMO vs a drone in the air with lots of range for reaction time. A drone can stop much faster or swerve to the side than a ground vehicle going over 100 mph, one small slip and it’s guarantee to crash… I have a stock Felony and I have not reached 80 mph bcs I’m not as good as I was at the age of 20 lol maybe your much better than I am right now.. have you done speed runs with a vr before?? I seen videos on RUclips of a kid that races his rc car on the highway doing 100+ he speeds past police cars and makes them chase him and he outruns them!! The video footage is awesome!!
Why did you title your video in Kmh all of a sudden? You should keep it in Mph, this way there's no confusion of what speeds your really hitting. I had to go and convert the number on Google. 😁😁 Nonetheless, great video as always!! 👍 Keep them coming!
Jonathan Rodriguez Haha for me is the mph confusing I think he should do both
@@julius1251 Very true.👍 Some people calculate in Kmh and other in Mph. Another good example is, I use Fahrenheit to measure temperature, but my good friend uses Celsius.
@@Jonathan-bk7gs Most people in the world use the metric system and celcius ;)
I might have missed something from an earlier video, but I was wondering, was there a specific reason you've chosen to link the two motors to a common driveshaft as opposed to doing away with the central drive shaft altogether? I would have figured, perhaps, the simpler way would have been to have one motor power the front axel with the other powering the rear, and forget about the center driveshaft altogether. Just my two cents, I don't know anything lol
The problem with that is it'll be very unstable front to rear. If either the front or rear suspension unloads, it'll shatter everything with the sheer speed. It's honestly worse than an open diff
Just a thought... But an orca whale paint job would look killer! 😎
I WAS JUST THINKING THAT LMAOOO
Would look killer whale* 🤭
Really nice that you share your tricks and tips . I hope you get your drive shafts sorted out . Can’t wait to see what you come up with.
Raz! Need to give some attention to the underbody! You can get more downforce without so much drag!
I'm not speed guy but I've loved following this build. Thanks for the entertainment 👍
Seems like "BATS MAN CAR"!!
You real creater in the world! I subscribed!!
Always awnser when You Mom phones. My mother died when I was 12year old and I would give anything to talk to her. Love Your vids man.
I'm here for the v10 sound
Is it possible to add a camera without affecting aerodynamics?
Thanks raz really enjoyed watching your trials and tribulations. Great series
How crazy the speed almost doubled in a couple of weeks
Keep those nice vids coming. Love that flyby sound of dual motor. Greatings from Denmark
Очень круто😎 💪💪💪 🔥 🇷🇺
Nice job Raz! You are doing a great job making RC popular. Incredible how your channel is growing! 👍
Awesome video. Love seeing the progress of this car. You are lucky that UJ failure didn’t cause more damage.
As far as the drive shafts you’re on you’re own. I’m having the same issue myself on 8s with dual leopard motors on 2 XLX’s. I’m waiting on you to hopefully build us a tank driveshaft, Lol. I would get some thinner/lighter/batteries and put them on their side and you could possibly fit a delta plastics body. Also you could put a different chassis brace that holds 2 XLX2’s above the motors and batteries like I did. Keep up the awesome content. Entertaining as always. 👍
No the reciever is not junk. Aloft hobbys sells replacement and extended antennas for futaba. I change them all the time takes 3 minutes. Nice video and build. Have u ever thought making driveshaft brace with bearing.
I know the car is made well but what is that noise from the trans when you push it by hand,sounds really harse?
Much better this time good work man keep up the great stuff!
Maybe one solid shaft center bearing only I think you're leading the way such a clean build.
I have those shoes as well! They’re so comfortable!
Love your content raz, I started flying Fpv drones 4 years ago, and now getting into rc cars as well
Nice build and very informative 👍
What if you added a carrier bearing in the middle of each of the 2 drive shafts?
Exactly what I thought. But also need to balance the shafts. They are unbalanced when you see he test car on spot.
On some of your cars Raz the balance port of the lipos are plugged into someting, what is it?
Have you thought about widening your wing back there? Oughtta help a bit with high speed stability!
Raz your a brave man to keep doing this, and though i know nothing about speed running i do think what you said, a bit smaller, much lighter, a pair of 4s lipo`s less weight equals less stress on the parts and maybe more speed, keep at it man
To break the world record you will need at least 10s or over but the main thing is getting it threw speed traps and make it official no Garmin crap 😜
Watch my videos soon bro
Maybe some small industrial style couplings could work, your alignment would have to be spot on though.
Your U joints are not “in phase” alignment. All 3 must be alignment to reduce vibration and broken.
This. I noticed it when he put it all together.
I was going to mention the same thing. It will reduce vibration and they should last a bit longer
Hoooo yeah je le savais !!! Que tu pouvais le faire !! Félicitations 👍🤗💪
Bro that car is that fast i new my self that wasn’t going to hold u built an amazing bit of kit I love it raz
Love the video big van bro 😎
Not now mom!🤭👍🏽 love it! Guess it wasn't important otherwise she would hope called. Back immediately. But great recovery coming back and avoiding the grass. I would've crashed. I'm having radio reception issues. I see you're using Futaba. Nice!
is there any driveshaft and outdrive with 4mm pins that you can fit in ? maybe custom machined ?
I like the noise it makes on mid range decel... is that the brake or just the noise of it?
Maybe the cv joints would hold up if you had 1 or 2 support bearings in the middle of the shafts. At least they would keep the shaft from tearing your car apart when it breaks.
Maybe one motor drives the front and the second drives the rear. Maybe that would fix the issue. Also perhaps the motor could be mounted right next to the diff.
Small differences in motor speed wouldn't be good.
True but for drag racing it's fine. He's not racing on a track.
Could you add a small camera on the body and use a set of drone goggles to help you steer it at high speeds. POV works well once you get use to it . Just a thought ?
Awesome video once again. Have you considered adding support bearings along the length of the shafts? Might have to be creative in making up a pillow block bearing, but could make a huge difference.
It's a beast.
Hey man. This is awesome!! Wish I could afford to build one right Now!
I was thinking... What if you made a straight "low" shaft like you did at the beginning w/ no joints and replace the gears with pulleys. You'd have to flip the motors around and make a belt tensioner on the face of the motor mount plate....but, what do you think?
You'll get it bro... it's all about trial and error..... good luck 😀
You are making good progress, keep it up man!! You will get it!!
Almost 250🤩 keep it up!👍
I was holding my breath. I hope the damage isn’t too bad. Good luck!
Trial and error brother, that is the best way to learn. I applaud your effort and ingenuity. Is it the overall speed of the shaft causing the fault or is it the power used getting the car up to speed creating the fault? If not either of those 2 what do you think is causing it? I'm sure you've thought about it and if you've mentioned it in a video my apologies I missed it, but, Is there a way to program the esc to more gradually apply the power if the latter is the issue with the shaft faults?
have you used any hall effect sensors with the motors?
You may well be better able to control the level of torque placed on the drive shaft under heavy acceleration is all i'm thinking
Drive shaft hoops, just like full size , to prevent broken shafts flailing , simple to make with the tools you have,
Thank you, TIL.
That intro, so funny man!
Given the length of the rear shaft, would it be worth supporting it by running it through a bearing at the mid point? At the very least, it would help to prevent the driveshaft thrashing about inside (which could potentially lead to further damage).
You need to learn from what the full-size speed record people do: dial the power right back and build up slowly. Turn the Throttles down and run it at 25% power, get everything running sweet then build the power up to 35% and so on. You also need to put some carrier bearings on those shafts otherwise they will just shake themselves apart. Single steps at a time otherwise you end up chasing issues round in circles.
I think stick with the titanium dogbones but drill them out to fit a larger pin. And obvs grind out the cups to accept it.
You gotta find a way to install a onboard camera, that car most see incredible stuff.
i agree the footage would look amazing but i also would have concerns of how the camra would add wieght and thus slow it down and lets face it a camra isnt exackly aroedyamic to just plop on top of the rc car and far as i know or understand they still have to have everything else inside the rc car to function and work right and thats assumming everything can survive and be durable enough for the expected weare and teare of its use and gosh forbid should it go out of controll and crash into a wall for what ever resion theres far as i pacifily know of that there be no garuintee any footage survives givin the goal speed and its current speed
Why dont use PARAGON GROUND EFFECT on your foam tire...?more traction =more control...
Did you have the joints phased? Kinda hard to tell but I dont think you had them phased. Thats probably where your vibration was coming from and possibly why one failed. Maybe try again when they are phased and see how it does. Phased basically means the joints are aligned.
It's been a great project to watch Raz, I've really enjoyed the content. Real life drag cars and hot rods have metal loops around their drive shafts, something to consider. I reckon the chassis could be a bit longer and possibly put a vertical stabiliser fin up front to help it stay straight.
Thanks for the entertainment, looking forward to whatever comes next.
So you got 152 mph good job dude
Sounds like a speeder from Star Wars
What about CVDs? I know the weak point are the pins but maybe youll have to use 5th scale sized parts.
You inspired me to design and build my own rc car with the goal of reaching 200mph plus. I am going to keep it small using 550 motor with 3S, and weighing under 3 pounds.
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you could make the solid shaft work you just have to add 2 more gears to make up the height difference or a bigger gear on the shaft. also put U bolts over the driveshaft to make a cage like they do in race cars
How do you get the motors to work completely on sync? And are both esc in the same receiver? Would help with my build thanks
Maybe try to have someone weld the shaft to the rear and front gear diffs and have them balanced. Try to only use the universal joints closer to the spool. Maybe too many pivot points. I don't believe anyone is doing anything as good as you are right now. Good videos and enjoy watching.
Did you try running a bearing with a mount to the chassis in the center of front n rear shafts and for the u joints try to see what mip have or can make for you coz min is a proven cvd platform the one you have look like low budget joints which I understand for a experiment
Always look forward to your content. Thank you. 👍🍻
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Thankyou sir I was actually pondering making a solid shaft and I had thought of that problem too but was about to try it anyway! I actually make my own dog bones and weld the pins in. It works I keep having my diff cups come lose.
Ah km/h style now , 250 is pretty fast.
The car has a lot of power and shafts are breaking, because of the force or speed ? What speed/rpm are the wheels doing with no load ?
I like how it went from mph to kph to make it sound faster
I think what you might look into getting would be a cvc joint it's like a 6 sided shaft that goes into a 6 sided socket more surface area less damage
can you try to make the drivetrain completely flat without any angle on the driveshaft ?so you can connect the diff gear and the shaft together can you lower the center spool ? by using another motor mount ? ( for exemple look at the rear connector on the hobao hyper 9e/ hyper star-e , there is no driveshaft to connect the center and the rear diff )
flip a motor so they spin opposite directions (one for front wheels one for back, use reverse gearing) the motors spinning are going to cause huge centrifugal force.
How about running 6s? Or/And a belt drive train such as a Serpent 977e or Serpent 998e? Keep testing! Great work! hmm... The Serpent was designed for a single motor; however, maybe design a dual motor belt drivetrain. Maybe extras pillow block by the differentials?
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hi raz . iv been looking at your vid .and youv solved half of the issue. because the drive shafts have rotating mass the front one held because it short . the back one has more mass so under big load it will start to bend in the middle which puts load on the ujount . if you were to put two more shaft moute on the back shaft you will make the mass less because the shaft has saported and will not bend with the mass . then you put stress on the ujount only .allso to help you you need a rolling platform so you can set up the car and see if you mods can handle it with out going out on the raod every time you need to test , hope this helps , let me know ??
I had wondered if universal joints may be a potential replacement for the usual RC drive shafts...
When a u-joint is used, the driveshaft lengthens and shortens as it goes around. There needs to be a spline at one end or the other to allow this to happen. That is why it broke, the joint kept pulling and pushing until it gave way.
That and the yokes need to be perfectly aligned.
@@sharkeyist Maybe those joints just can't take the load and the rpm, either. They really look nice, though, sitting at the end of each shaft. I think they are more suited for shafts on small CNC machines that are running at slower rpms. Raz is really spinning the crap out of those shafts.
@@mauricerandall1216 yeah, at the rpms hes pulling anything involved needs to be super accurately made n balanced. Bigger wheels would help alot but make it a start again job regards susp, chass etc changes needed to suit.
Raz, what about an extra support in the middle is the rear driveshaft to reduce vibration and movement, might help to keep it in one piece?
Imagine that thing hitting your feet at max speed
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That think is a beast!!.., I just tought it need a longer wheelbase for a better stability
I guessing the down force plus the power from the motors tryin to force against it is what causes the week points to give out