In Australia they are charging postage for the series 4 and not the series 3 so that explains part of the difference. The Neptune 4 printers were cheaper than the series 3 printers for some time and I expect they kept the old series at a higher price because it gives retailers the chance to sell off old stock at higher prices before the new printers are available in stores.
@@lpjmodels It makes you wonder how much we were overpaying for earlier models when there was less competition. I remember the outrageous prices for wash and cure machines.
20 hours?? Something is wrong there..i can do a 100mm print on my slow ass mini 8k in 8 hours with 0.02 layers. I've never had a huge print take longer then 9 hours lol 😮
Thanks for the review - I think you just saved me some money and frustration. 8-9 hours makes me nervous. My Saturn 3 Ultra prints nearly flawless at 32mm scale without any layer lines - a full plate of 32mm scale figures standing straight up is usually about 1hr 40m (usually using Siraya Grey ABS-Like with a bit of Tenacious mixed in). Is the slow speed due to the water-washable resin you're using? The resolution on my prints look the same or better as in your slow example. Was really looking forward to the next Saturn model, but now I'm concerned. I was also hoping for a built-in resin pump and a resin heater. Seems like it would be smart to integrate those two functions into a single unit, similar to how a tankless water heater works - especially now that they can lift the tank up at an angle to drain the resin. It may make sense to leave it out for people who would prefer to keep the price down, but I'd hope they offer a bolt-on upgrade in the future. I love my Saturn 3 Ultra, but I think the Anycubic Photon Mono M7 Pro wins my $$$ this generation. Again, thank you for this excellent review!
I have this printer, and even at 50 micron layer height I’m blown away with the print quality. The AI camera is a gimmick to me. I’ve had prints where half the bed failed and I was never notified of any failure. It also kind of sucks that there isn’t a mobile app for this printer, like the Bambu printers have- I’d like to be able to get notifications and check in on my prints from my phone. Overall, it’s a great printer though!
Pretty sure that stuff like the door will print with far less warping if you use a continuous support on the edge closest to the plate. The connection area should be 0.15mm, to allow for easy removal, but the support itself around 1mm. This gives it all the stability it needs to resist warping.
7:28 this is great that it shows you where the camera is because you want all your supports on the OTHER side of the camera. helps you orient your project properly for fail safe detections.
Im all for not comming standard with a heater. But making it have the option. To keep price point lower. I myself do not need a heater for my printer. But those that do have that as an option. I think its a better approach imho
I have never used the traditional resin for some reason ! Back when I was sent my Mars 2 Pro a few years ago to review I got some water washable and haven't ever deviated . The anycubic hd+ stuff however is utter trash. I found that out the hard way, I though the screen on my mono x was dying but it was just that resin.
Which resin is he using? I have no clue after watching the video. I have no knowledge on this machines and I am interested in learning before buying one. Thanks in advance, Angel
@@lpjmodels What exposure times are you running with 0.02 layer? I bought the same resin as I'm not satisfied with Anycubic WW and looking for some times to start tests with
The bust model too I actually would of put upside down and at a angle, and you could have the body drain hole be right in the neck where the head goes.
@@lpjmodels Yea black is always cool, but I have dreamt about green lids on new releases since the Mars My Mini Factory edition. Seems like the same part so it would be cool if they sold them to swap out.
Minor question - is there a hole somewhere to run a small power cable for a resin heater? I had to print a lid spacer to do this on my Phrozen Sonic Mini.
There is not a hole per se, but there is a screw plate on the rear wall of the housing. I believe ( I may be wrong) that the new mini heater by Elegoo has a replacement fitting for this to allow for wires. But. We are handy bunch and I don't think it would be too much effort to quickly design your own plate if you use a different heater !?
I completely get it and hate that feeling ! All those things you could be printing in the meantime.. it will be worth the wait and I hope you enjoy the machine
More supports in the corners can also help fighting the warping, when an edge is parallel to the screen. Dennys Wang made a live stream showing how to support such edges
You lucky so and so, not got a printer at the moment but seriously thinking about one. I haven't got a clue about operating one let alone making up files etc. This type of video is what is needed for people like me that have no idea what so ever about what to do with one. Maybe if you were to make a video about printing an individual item from start to finish that may help. Just one more thing where can you get the files from for say for example a WWII US figure and how to determine the scale?? So many questions to ask but don't have a clue mate. Thank you
That's a great idea Gary. When it comes to finding the files. Cults 3d, Etsy, and the like have loads of files. Just need to search for example " ww2 American 1/35 STL " the STl is the key bit, figures there seems to be an abundance of fantasy, but ww2 figures really vary in quality. The good stuff is *really* good and the rest seems middling. The russian sniper here is one of the better ones found.
Scale wise a good creator will scale them for you, and they usually work, but I usually if I need to convert use one of those scale converters, and put in the whole height of a part, say 1/16 to 1/35 if find the measurement for 1/16, use the converter and it gives you a percentage. Then when scaling just set the percentage to the same on all parts and usually you're good to go ! If that makes sense
In what instance will I need to pour the resin back into the bottle aside from switching resin colours/ cleaning? Do I need to empty out the resin after each say or so?
Thanks for the feedback ! I was on the fence fight at the start before getting into printing, but I found myself soon designing and printing parts for my kits ( and I'm not very good at it lol ) just small augmentation to start with
I can say personally as someone seen both prints the slow ones are much better. Theres not much in it but they show a lot more detail on the normal setting than the fast
There isn't tonnes in it, but as Soph says there is that little extra fidelity with the slow prints. I'm hoping to try with grown up ( alcohol ) resin instead of water washable at some point too. Also time spent and exposure tweaking will squeeze a little more out of the printer
I have a Saturn S that I bought at the end of 2022 and funny enough didn't had the courage to start printing yet I can't wait to put my hands on this one 😂
Saturn 4 Ultra, What type of screw do you use on the main plate movement feed? Ball bearing screw and nut or plastic slide nut and regular trapezoidal screw?
Tell me about it@@lpjmodels If you could 3D print time that would be a winner. Interesting to see no solution to the distortion issue. Cracking prints though. A figure painting video on the way?
It’s not a ripoff of the form 3. These are two different classes of printers targeting different audiences. The form 3 is meant for the corporate platform. I’ve used form labs printers for work, and they’re really nice to use. For me the printer is just a tool, it should just work with little to no intervention on the users part. I’m interested in getting successful prints whether it’s a mini or functional part, and not about the printer itself. The Saturn 4 Ultra is a nice printer, but I think Elegoo didn’t go far enough feature wise.
Hi James. Great review 👏 👌 👍. Im waiting at the moment for mine to arrive. Very excited... Can i ask where did you find the STL files for that door ?? Thank you very much🙏
@@dan3dprint183 ah, that one is on me. I used a different cleaning brush that was a bit too abrasive. I had a firm toothbrush to hand and was trying to make sure there was no residue after cleanup.
I'm a little curious about the workflow when it comes to WiFi printing. My computer is on the main level of my house and my printing room is in the basement. Let's assume that WiFi connectivity won't be a problem. Do I need to keep the printer turned on all the time so that I can send a print to it, then go to the basement to add resin and start it up? Or can I just go to the basement, turn my printer on and access the files that I have set up for it on my computer? Just wondering if this functionality will work better than me having to run up and down stairs repeatedly like I have to do with the USB.
Basically you send the file to a live printer with chitumanager. Then you can start it from the pc, but the files are stored on the onboard memory so you do not need to keep the PC on to keep printing. You can send up to 8gb of files to the onboard memory and start it from the PC or Printer.
@lpjmodels I keep my computer on 24/7 but shut my printer off of it isn't printing. I guess this means I'll have to run up and downstairs as part of the workflow. Go downstairs to turn on the printer, then go upstairs to send the files. Then go back downstairs to do other work. The only difference is that I don't need to unplug and plug in the USB stick.
@@Thanos88888 how often do you leave between prints ? I leave my vat full unless there's been a detachment or failure, and clean the build plate and put it straight back.
@@lpjmodels I leave my printer sitting for anywhere from a few minutes to a few weeks. I also typically leave the vat full. I'm just saying that the way that wifi has to work on this doesn't really add any convenience to the workflow. Now, if I could remotely power on the printer from my PC, that would save me the step from having to go downstairs to turn on the printer, just to have to go back upstairs to send the print (then likely go back downstairs because if I'm actively printing, I'm probably painting or assembling models as well). I'd rather not just leave my resin printer powered on 24/7 like my PC is, but to shut it off between prints.
Thanks for the reply could you possibly detach the bolts and have the lid be pulled off instead. I don’t know if it can fit the back space in my set up
After looking at another review it appears to be quite flexible and it looks like some are even using it to drop their prints into for prewash. Then harden the resin, give the bin a flex and pop the cured waste out of it. That sounds clever.
It is just a piece of vacform plastic so has plenty of flex. It is to solve the problem of the very drippy build plate and the gaps to allow the screen to move with the vat, you don't want resin getting in there with the gubbins
So far I haven't had any warping or error detection, I was hoping for an error of sorts ( a funny thing to wish for ) It notifies the printer which pauses the print. Because of the self levelling, most issues are going to be avoided from the off. But on the rare occasion you get detachment or floaters it should prove to be a great feature. From my end, I'm glad I haven't had to use them because it means everything's been working smoothly, which is what we all want, but I get 100% where you're coming from !
@@matthewdoucette1 I think for those who print like 1 big thing it's a big plus, with my tiny bits I usually print maybe not as useful if things are hidden away behind other items, but as long as your supports and exposure is dialed in properly it *should* be a non issue. But I'm not complaining about the extra safety net
Disliked, brother never speak on behalf of your viewers or a sponsored products customer. Saying $50 isn’t going to break the bank if you’re already spending $400 plus a wash and cure station $150 plus resin is poor taste. If it wasn’t going to break the bank then Elegoo should have included the heater for free.
The fact that the new Saturn 4 lineup is cheaper than the SALE price of the Saturn 3 lineup is insane.
Hopefully down the line we don't start to see corners being cut to save costs because the price is pretty bonkers.
Makes me curious why its a cheaper line already despite the feature additions. Even if the tilting tray may be a problem point in the future.
I just bought the saturn 3 ultra for $50 more
In Australia they are charging postage for the series 4 and not the series 3 so that explains part of the difference. The Neptune 4 printers were cheaper than the series 3 printers for some time and I expect they kept the old series at a higher price because it gives retailers the chance to sell off old stock at higher prices before the new printers are available in stores.
@@lpjmodels It makes you wonder how much we were overpaying for earlier models when there was less competition. I remember the outrageous prices for wash and cure machines.
20 hours?? Something is wrong there..i can do a 100mm print on my slow ass mini 8k in 8 hours with 0.02 layers. I've never had a huge print take longer then 9 hours lol 😮
what cure and wash station did you use?
They should have swapped a vat heater instead of the camera..
A lot of people wanted a vat heater !
Thanks for the review - I think you just saved me some money and frustration. 8-9 hours makes me nervous. My Saturn 3 Ultra prints nearly flawless at 32mm scale without any layer lines - a full plate of 32mm scale figures standing straight up is usually about 1hr 40m (usually using Siraya Grey ABS-Like with a bit of Tenacious mixed in). Is the slow speed due to the water-washable resin you're using? The resolution on my prints look the same or better as in your slow example. Was really looking forward to the next Saturn model, but now I'm concerned.
I was also hoping for a built-in resin pump and a resin heater. Seems like it would be smart to integrate those two functions into a single unit, similar to how a tankless water heater works - especially now that they can lift the tank up at an angle to drain the resin. It may make sense to leave it out for people who would prefer to keep the price down, but I'd hope they offer a bolt-on upgrade in the future.
I love my Saturn 3 Ultra, but I think the Anycubic Photon Mono M7 Pro wins my $$$ this generation. Again, thank you for this excellent review!
Just make sure you throw that USB stick in the bin right away.
I have a few spares dw :D
I have this printer, and even at 50 micron layer height I’m blown away with the print quality.
The AI camera is a gimmick to me. I’ve had prints where half the bed failed and I was never notified of any failure. It also kind of sucks that there isn’t a mobile app for this printer, like the Bambu printers have- I’d like to be able to get notifications and check in on my prints from my phone.
Overall, it’s a great printer though!
Pretty sure that stuff like the door will print with far less warping if you use a continuous support on the edge closest to the plate. The connection area should be 0.15mm, to allow for easy removal, but the support itself around 1mm. This gives it all the stability it needs to resist warping.
7:28 this is great that it shows you where the camera is because you want all your supports on the OTHER side of the camera. helps you orient your project properly for fail safe detections.
Im all for not comming standard with a heater. But making it have the option. To keep price point lower. I myself do not need a heater for my printer. But those that do have that as an option. I think its a better approach imho
FINALLY!!! Someone who uses the same resin I do!!! Thank you for the review. Once I have the resources I’ll be picking it up along with a heater
I have never used the traditional resin for some reason ! Back when I was sent my Mars 2 Pro a few years ago to review I got some water washable and haven't ever deviated . The anycubic hd+ stuff however is utter trash. I found that out the hard way, I though the screen on my mono x was dying but it was just that resin.
Which resin is he using? I have no clue after watching the video.
I have no knowledge on this machines and I am interested in learning before buying one.
Thanks in advance,
Angel
@@Xxxxxxxxxx3582 I put notes at the bottom of the screen. Elegoo water washable 8k space grey
@@lpjmodels What exposure times are you running with 0.02 layer? I bought the same resin as I'm not satisfied with Anycubic WW and looking for some times to start tests with
@@mateuszbober9452 2.2 ish for 0.2, the anycubic ww is a bit pants now. Used to be great, loving the elegoo 8k soave grey though
You would have improved prints if you angled the models more instead of supporting them all vertically, you also have far less of a chance of failure.
The bust model too I actually would of put upside down and at a angle, and you could have the body drain hole be right in the neck where the head goes.
What about 'Z-Axis Wobble'? My saturn 2 is atrocious for wobble lines in flat surfaces such as tanks.
I have a 1/48 stuart tank to print at some point I'll have to have a look.
In theory, because there are 2 guide rails this should be better.
i want the green lid on the ultra lol
The green lid looks pretty cool, I do like the stealth of the black though
@@lpjmodels Yea black is always cool, but I have dreamt about green lids on new releases since the Mars My Mini Factory edition. Seems like the same part so it would be cool if they sold them to swap out.
I haven't seen any pictures of how the heater fits into the unit.
I don't have a heater unfortunately. It was announced on Monday with the unit
Minor question - is there a hole somewhere to run a small power cable for a resin heater? I had to print a lid spacer to do this on my Phrozen Sonic Mini.
There is not a hole per se, but there is a screw plate on the rear wall of the housing. I believe ( I may be wrong) that the new mini heater by Elegoo has a replacement fitting for this to allow for wires.
But. We are handy bunch and I don't think it would be too much effort to quickly design your own plate if you use a different heater !?
My Mars 3 just died, and I have this on pre-order. It seems so long to wait now that I am without a resin printer!!!!
I completely get it and hate that feeling ! All those things you could be printing in the meantime.. it will be worth the wait and I hope you enjoy the machine
More supports in the corners can also help fighting the warping, when an edge is parallel to the screen. Dennys Wang made a live stream showing how to support such edges
Oh wow cheers ill have to check that out
how fast ist it compared to the saturn 2 and 3?
Saturn 3 ultra has the same max speed of 150mmph regular saturn is 30-70 max.
You lucky so and so, not got a printer at the moment but seriously thinking about one. I haven't got a clue about operating one let alone making up files etc. This type of video is what is needed for people like me that have no idea what so ever about what to do with one. Maybe if you were to make a video about printing an individual item from start to finish that may help. Just one more thing where can you get the files from for say for example a WWII US figure and how to determine the scale?? So many questions to ask but don't have a clue mate. Thank you
That's a great idea Gary.
When it comes to finding the files. Cults 3d, Etsy, and the like have loads of files. Just need to search for example " ww2 American 1/35 STL " the STl is the key bit, figures there seems to be an abundance of fantasy, but ww2 figures really vary in quality. The good stuff is *really* good and the rest seems middling. The russian sniper here is one of the better ones found.
Scale wise a good creator will scale them for you, and they usually work, but I usually if I need to convert use one of those scale converters, and put in the whole height of a part, say 1/16 to 1/35 if find the measurement for 1/16, use the converter and it gives you a percentage. Then when scaling just set the percentage to the same on all parts and usually you're good to go ! If that makes sense
In what instance will I need to pour the resin back into the bottle aside from switching resin colours/ cleaning? Do I need to empty out the resin after each say or so?
I don't have a big space and sometimes my printer needs to be put away for a few days. If I know I'm printing a lot, the resin will stay in the vat.
@@lpjmodels oh okay I see, thank you very much!
If Elegoo drops a Jupiter like this… take my money
I bet ( I don't have any actual knowledge) that this tech will roll out with the next jupiters be mad of them not to !
Excellent review James. May have to consider this when I want to upgrade from the 4k mono.
How is the screen replaced? Is it quick change or required disassembly of half the machine Iike old machines?
some interesting video m8👍🏻 and the result is really crisp 👌🏻
Thanks mate !
Cool
i want one just for the flippy lid.
This is why we bros
Hey! My reddit post! Thanks bro!!!!
I hope you didn't mind me referencing it !
Great review it was very informative even to someone like me who has yet to decide if a resin printer will be something I want to get into.
Thanks for the feedback ! I was on the fence fight at the start before getting into printing, but I found myself soon designing and printing parts for my kits ( and I'm not very good at it lol ) just small augmentation to start with
@@lpjmodels Thank you for sharing your experience.
I mean... the fast ones look better to me.
I can say personally as someone seen both prints the slow ones are much better. Theres not much in it but they show a lot more detail on the normal setting than the fast
There isn't tonnes in it, but as Soph says there is that little extra fidelity with the slow prints.
I'm hoping to try with grown up ( alcohol ) resin instead of water washable at some point too.
Also time spent and exposure tweaking will squeeze a little more out of the printer
Elegoo Saturn S vs this will be a nice upgrade then
It's so cool how tech is improving, there is still a way to go of course, but still excellent to see the progression
I have a Saturn S that I bought at the end of 2022 and funny enough didn't had the courage to start printing yet I can't wait to put my hands on this one 😂
@@heramann6916Saturn S is a great machine
I think that was a pretty comprehensive review! Will probably link back to this one when I finally get mine off the ground lol
Thanks Matt ! I'll be sure to link to yours when it's up too . You're gonna have a blast with this thing
Thk you so much for this video, your explanations are very clear. Cld you tell me if this printer will be adapted for jewellery making ?
I'm not sure on that, but I think it's just down to certain resins used. If that's the cas me it should be OK but further research would be needed
Saturn 4 Ultra, What type of screw do you use on the main plate movement feed? Ball bearing screw and nut or plastic slide nut and regular trapezoidal screw?
@Elegoo Official can you answer this question?
@@lpjmodels I asked a similar question on the site, they are silent.
@@lifeintheusa9612 let me try via direct email
@@lifeintheusa9612 email sent, awaiting reply
Here you go man, copied from email " The engineer's response is: "plastic slide nut and regular trapezoidal screw.""
A really comprehensive review of what looks like an awesome machine. So jealous.... 😁
Thanks Sera, I feel I could have dissected the prints more but only so much time in a week 😀
Tell me about it@@lpjmodels If you could 3D print time that would be a winner. Interesting to see no solution to the distortion issue. Cracking prints though. A figure painting video on the way?
What’s the difference from the non ultra? Thanks
Standard doesn't have the camera or WiFi cluster printing (?) And doesn't have a tilting vat. Those are the main changes.
When is it coming out?
Preorders are out now. Not sure on delivery
how is this now not just a complete ripoff of the Form 3?
The form 3 is a beast, but it's not hobbyist price. I wouldn't drop more than £500 on a printer.
It’s not a ripoff of the form 3. These are two different classes of printers targeting different audiences. The form 3 is meant for the corporate platform. I’ve used form labs printers for work, and they’re really nice to use. For me the printer is just a tool, it should just work with little to no intervention on the users part. I’m interested in getting successful prints whether it’s a mini or functional part, and not about the printer itself. The Saturn 4 Ultra is a nice printer, but I think Elegoo didn’t go far enough feature wise.
@@Teddyboy-EM what extras would you have liked to see ?
You're a good man... and thorough!
Hi James. Great review 👏 👌 👍.
Im waiting at the moment for mine to arrive. Very excited...
Can i ask where did you find the STL files for that door ??
Thank you very much🙏
Thanks ! Head over to my cults 3d page. "Lespauljames" and you'll find it there for free
@@lpjmodels ohh...thank you James🙏🙏
That "flippy cool lid" does not look like it would block UV.
I can't really comment on this, my house is quite dark and small so natural light is limited.
i can imagine cleaning the build plate is a pita , getting between the long screws is not so easy lol
With a toothbrush it's not too bad. A small annoyance
Greate review! are you supposed to remove the screen protectors?
It was just a protective film for shipping that I removed
Can elegoo rapid resin be used on this printer?
I wonder if @elegoo can answer this one
Good review. I like to see someone test the power-loss function
I used it once, there wasn't a power outage but something happened and I had to resume.
@@lpjmodels I see a lot of scratches in the Sniper figure. I always taught that this problem only happen in my Saturn OG.
@@dan3dprint183 ah, that one is on me. I used a different cleaning brush that was a bit too abrasive. I had a firm toothbrush to hand and was trying to make sure there was no residue after cleanup.
@@lpjmodels ok. I also use a toothbrush so need to change to something less abrasive.
@@lpjmodels I suggest to use an airbrush with compressor with enough pressure.
Works like charm for me for years already...
How did that print take more than 5 hours? On my Saturn 1 i can print 8cm print in 5 hours 28 minutes.
What layer height are you using ? I usually only use 0.01 and 0.02
@@lpjmodels whatever comes default in Chitubox. My normal layer exposure times tend to 2.5 seconds too
@@Cyrilcynder1 I think that's 0.5 usually. So printing an extra 4-5 layers for your 1
I'm a little curious about the workflow when it comes to WiFi printing. My computer is on the main level of my house and my printing room is in the basement. Let's assume that WiFi connectivity won't be a problem. Do I need to keep the printer turned on all the time so that I can send a print to it, then go to the basement to add resin and start it up? Or can I just go to the basement, turn my printer on and access the files that I have set up for it on my computer? Just wondering if this functionality will work better than me having to run up and down stairs repeatedly like I have to do with the USB.
Basically you send the file to a live printer with chitumanager. Then you can start it from the pc, but the files are stored on the onboard memory so you do not need to keep the PC on to keep printing.
You can send up to 8gb of files to the onboard memory and start it from the PC or Printer.
@lpjmodels I keep my computer on 24/7 but shut my printer off of it isn't printing. I guess this means I'll have to run up and downstairs as part of the workflow. Go downstairs to turn on the printer, then go upstairs to send the files. Then go back downstairs to do other work. The only difference is that I don't need to unplug and plug in the USB stick.
@@Thanos88888 how often do you leave between prints ? I leave my vat full unless there's been a detachment or failure, and clean the build plate and put it straight back.
@@lpjmodels I leave my printer sitting for anywhere from a few minutes to a few weeks. I also typically leave the vat full. I'm just saying that the way that wifi has to work on this doesn't really add any convenience to the workflow. Now, if I could remotely power on the printer from my PC, that would save me the step from having to go downstairs to turn on the printer, just to have to go back upstairs to send the print (then likely go back downstairs because if I'm actively printing, I'm probably painting or assembling models as well). I'd rather not just leave my resin printer powered on 24/7 like my PC is, but to shut it off between prints.
Is there a way to tighten the hinges? It looks a bit flimsy
There are 2 bolts inside you could tighten, it is quite firm as it is though,
Thanks for the reply
could you possibly detach the bolts and have the lid be pulled off instead. I don’t know if it can fit the back space in my set up
That drip tray thing looks like a pain.
After looking at another review it appears to be quite flexible and it looks like some are even using it to drop their prints into for prewash. Then harden the resin, give the bin a flex and pop the cured waste out of it. That sounds clever.
It is just a piece of vacform plastic so has plenty of flex. It is to solve the problem of the very drippy build plate and the gaps to allow the screen to move with the vat, you don't want resin getting in there with the gubbins
Levelling == Leveling. Ugh... Typos drives me nutty or like we say, NUTS! 😂
My good sir user's of the Kings English enjoy superfluous letters so please refrain from shenanigans.
I havn't seen anyone review the AI features on the Ultra, is the software end not developed yet?
So far I haven't had any warping or error detection, I was hoping for an error of sorts ( a funny thing to wish for )
It notifies the printer which pauses the print.
Because of the self levelling, most issues are going to be avoided from the off. But on the rare occasion you get detachment or floaters it should prove to be a great feature.
From my end, I'm glad I haven't had to use them because it means everything's been working smoothly, which is what we all want, but I get 100% where you're coming from !
@@lpjmodels yeahhhh and with the fixed camera it's only seeing part of the vat so as a value add it seems more cute than useful
@@matthewdoucette1 I think for those who print like 1 big thing it's a big plus, with my tiny bits I usually print maybe not as useful if things are hidden away behind other items, but as long as your supports and exposure is dialed in properly it *should* be a non issue. But I'm not complaining about the extra safety net
Disliked, brother never speak on behalf of your viewers or a sponsored products customer. Saying $50 isn’t going to break the bank if you’re already spending $400 plus a wash and cure station $150 plus resin is poor taste. If it wasn’t going to break the bank then Elegoo should have included the heater for free.
The female blue whale has the second biggest pussy in the world, right behind this guy.
didnt show camera function, bad review
Did you not see the time-lapse? It's pretty much that but real time.