Mazda 6 Brake Pad and Rotor Replacement, Easy Repair!
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- Опубликовано: 28 авг 2024
- GET YOUR FRONT BRAKE PADS HERE!! www.amazon.com/...
Rear Brake Pads are HERE: www.amazon.com/...
Front Rotors are HERE: www.amazon.com/...
Let me know if those links stop working! or if you need something else.
This video will teach you everything you need to know about fixing the rotors and brake pads on your Mazda 6. The nice thing about the Mazda is that both the Front and the Rear brakes are the exact same process. Although different sizes, once you know how to do one wheel, you can do all 4.
If your brakes are just squeaking, OR if your rotors chug a little bit when you are brakeing it is time to replace them. This video will show you everything you need to know. The whole process should only take about 15-20 minutes a tire. This video should be exactly fit to the 2007-2013 models.
JerryRigEverything assumes no liability for property damage or injury incurred as a result of any of the information contained in this video. JerryRigEverything recommends safe practices when working with power tools, automotive lifts, lifting tools, jack stands, electrical equipment, blunt instruments, chemicals, lubricants, expensive electronics, or any other tools or equipment seen or implied in this video. Due to factors beyond the control of JerryRigEverything, no information contained in this video shall create any express or implied warranty or guarantee of any particular result. Any injury, damage or loss that may result from improper use of these tools, equipment, or the information contained in this video is the sole responsibility of the user and not JerryRigEverything. Only attempt your own repairs if you can accept personal responsibility for the results, whether they are good or bad.
He's a backyard mechanic guys. Hats off for getting the job done,; hammer,screwdriver,,wrench. Thanks for the pliers idea. I used a giant c-clamp for the front and found it easier to remove the back to work on them.
thanks jerry i actually needed this today for my uncles car, much love
Greta video guys. I just did this yesterday and it's more of a pita than you might get from this video, mostly because removing the the bolts. First, the four 14mm bolts on the caliper were seized in place. I had to use a breaker bar, PB Blaster and a mallet to get them off. The rotor was difficult to get off too...hitting it a few times with a mallet just won't do, so have a pry bar and some patience handy. I had the most trouble putting the break pads in, oddly enough, You'll want to remove the to center part of the caliper (held in by two 14mm bolts where the little rubber boots are) to put the pads in. There is another video for the 6 where a guy puts the pads in that way. I used an impact hammer on the screws and they loosened up. Also, pushing the piston in with pliers is very difficult. Good luck.
Aaron Johnsen do you have a link to the other video ?
Thank you so much for keeping this video on your channel, an old JRE video but still relevant today. I'm a fan of your videos and have got the same vehicle although 3 years older but nonetheless same procedure. Looking to get my rotors replaced so came across this video at an amazing time! Keep staying awesome brother, much blessings!
Thank you. This saved my dad and I a lot of angry work.
If I could add on....
On any brake job,, Always pull out the caliper pins, wipe em off and put fresh caliper grease on them. Inspect the rubber grease boots and ensure they stay seated correctly. Also pull the brake pad clips and clean em up, clean up the calipers, too of rust with a wire brush, and then also lube behind the clips and the brake pad contact points with the same caliper grease, especially where the piston cup contacts the inside brake pad. Not too much. A thin coat is fine
Replacing my brakes and then my rear passenger side rotor this weekend. This will be super helpful. Thanks for the upload!
Helpful video thanks.Just a question. If the notch on the brake pad locates in a slot in the piston. How does the piston rotate to take up the slack?
Just a tip, you don't have to drill those rotor screws out. You use an impact screwdriver.
doesn't work
@@42svb58 For real. In the middle of doing mine at the moment. Waiting for my drill to charge up. Tried to just screw them out. The fist bit bent, and the second one instantly stripped it.
I just drilled my rears out yesterday. An impact screw driver don't always work. Mazda didn't think that one through after several several 10's of thousands miles.
@@davidgalassi2740 Chinese crap tools, guess Trump was right, bring manufacturing back to the US.
Yeah that worked for me today for all but one screw. One screw broke from the impact driver which isn’t a big deal, And my brake rotors were rusty and pretty damn old. So glad the impact driver worked with some nice hammer hits
I have the same kind of car an 2008, it has 270000 miles on it, and runs great! I've never had any issues out of it. change the oil every 3000 miles, transmission fluid flush every 50000 miles along with some small things like brakes, rotors, air filter, surpentine belt, and keep all your fluids looking clean, and this car will last a long time and save you a lot of money on new car payments and insurance. The car is so quite, it's sounds just as quite as my wife's 2015 nissan rogue. I'm not a salesmen but if you want a good reliable car that was save you big bucks, 2008 mazda 6, 2.3 liter engine.
That's good to hear. I just hit 100,000 miles on my Mazda.
2007 here, huge trunk, love it. doing pizza delivery for 4 years now 140K kms. it is a reliable car.
true i have a 2007 mazda 6 194k miles run great nice car
Just hit 223k on my 07 Mazda 6 2.3 with the 5 speed auto great car so far it’s quiet sounds great the interior is comfy and stylish and mine has the sport package so I got the wing and big wheels with the manual mode so it’s fun as well! Good to know others are loving there’s as well!
Bebedorra I have the 07 v6 sport and it’s at 213k right now. No lights or anything, except it’s a little loud because of my converter however I live in Wisconsin so the rust had a lot to do with it as well as the miles.
I used PB blaster and a cheap impact screwdriver from harbor freight to get the screws out. Took about 10 hits to break em loose
Should also be using some sort of anti seize or caliper slide lube on the ears of the pads also the carrier where the pads sit should also come off so the slide pins can be cleaned and relubricated
Great vid!
I am starting to wonder about the 2 screws though. Could they be there to center the rotor on the hub?
If they really were there only for the factory (so the rotors didn't fall off) why wouldn't there only be 1? I drilled mine out but I think I'll be replacing them in the future. Trying to figure out why I'm warping rotors and my pads are wearing unevenly
it's only a factory process as it moves down the line. my eclipse is the same way
I was able to use an impact drill to remove the rotor screws easily, actually. I'd also suggest installing them again after putting the new rotors on. I mean, they're there for a reason, right? Just as extra safety.
screws are only there for ease of brake installation on the assembly line
They hold no relevance after they come out of the factory line
Some cars just dont have the option..mine has screw at the back and no screws at the front. Designed that way...with or without makes no difference once the Wheels are bolted on.
tks, you can't imagine how hard i try to push back the piston before i learn how in your video!
francoishaha foamboard No problem! Thats what RUclips is for!
jerry rig is jerry rigging his brakes. love this channel.
Hi, if you can't get the rotor off with the screws removed I know you can put a bolt in that hole on the rotor to back off the rotor. Do you know what size bolt to use? Thank you.
Great tutorial! Just curious how many volt is your drill? I was able to get one screw out with an impact driver but the other one got smashed so the only option now is to drill it out. Thanks!
Better than drilling the screws out-while the handbrake is on, grab a Number 3 Phillips screwdriver, grab a socket that fits over the end of it, and use your ratchet to undo them. Clean the hub face and apply some anti-seize if you so like. Also, don't forget to clean and grease the slide pins, check the slide boots, grease the back of the pads, the shims and the guides before reassembling, or you'll get pads dragging which either speeds up wear, or can create uneven wear. Use the proper greases-brake grease and rubber grease-in the proper spots, or Bendix Ceramisil for everywhere, because it is safe for rubber. Don't forget the tension spring that fits in the little holes in the back of the pad either.
The number of likes is too metal for me to mess it up, so I watched a couple of times without skipping the ad. Thanks for the video.
You can damage the ABS by pushing the piston in without undoing the brake bleeder first.
Is that the recommneded way of replacing pads; I thought leaving the bracket in place, and removing the caliper was the recommended way....those 2 X 14 mm bolts have a tendency to seize, and shear off from rust....? finding new ones for an older Mazda may require you to go to the dealer directly....then more big bucks for original parts etc?
Good video, thanks!
Hey man thanks for the video,one question tho is it the same process for the front ones?
Thank you so much. Saved me a TON of money
Thanks for the great vid and links! Saved me some cash!
Paint a little never seize on the back of those rims. Also there are shims and springs on some models for the pads that should come off the originals that go back on the new ones. One final thing, a Manual Impact Driver will get those screws loose on the caliper. Good vid.
Thanks for the tips! The screws on this particular caliper were made of a softer metal, so even a impact driver would strip them... But its worth a shot!
Thanks Man , I have Mazda 2007 2.3CC
Hey man, I have the same car, did this video hold true to what you ended up having to do? Did you actually drill out the screws? Is the process the exact same for a 4 wheels?
excellent ! You've saved me a pretty penny.... here have a beer!
+peter nolls lol, heck ya! Enjoy the extra cash!
Are the two fronts the same as the 2 back ones? Or will I run into complications
The two fronts dont have screw pistons. You can just push them in with a big c clamp
i came for the car fix, but i just realize it is jerryrigeverything !!!! i knew the voice sounds familiar !!!!
Very helpful the last time I replaced brakes was on an old 00 chevy. Never changed them on my new one but looks the same/
CrazyLexxxiCool Definitely! Once you've done it once, you can apply that knowledge to pretty much all disk brakes.
great info but the piston take a long time and lots or turning to push it!
Very helpful video. Although instead of drilling out the screws a little wd-40 and impact driver got them out no problem. Less time and effort than drilling them out.
Alex Wood Nice! Good to know there is multiple ways of doing the same project.
Wish that worked for me, impact driver broke the tip of the bit off and it's now stuck on the bolt.
Anyone that has issues pushing the piston in, you can also rent a compression tool from the Auto shop (Autozone, Advance...etc). Makes the job 100 times easier, especially if they are stuck, like mine
Aleks I had trouble rewinding my rear pistons back using fingers & needle nose pliers. I though they were seized but I bought a brake caliper piston rewind tool off eBay for £6 & it did rewind them back a lot easier.
Very well explained thanks.
Removed both bolts for caliper removal however the caliper is still stuck on the rotor. Any suggestions?
How exactly did you get the bottom 14mm bolt out? I'm having issues with that since it's in such a strange place.
Jusy turn the wheel all the way to the right or left so that you have extra space
What way do the bolts turn? Mine are so stuck so cant figure out which way to go
Righty tighty lefty loosy
you could put the year in the video title. you could do that.
Was removing the parking brake necessary?
Was there no retaining clip on the brake pads? I did this on a 2004 Mazda 6s and there was a retaining clip.
Why didn't you show how to put the pads in, especially the springs that connect the 2 pads together? Ahhhgg!
Awesome, thanks for the video. Well said and done.
No brake grease on old pads & certain no grease applied to the new pads! Your brakes won't be long in rusting up!
Any tips go getting bottom 14mm bolt out?
Great video my friend actually use a c clamp to compress the piston do you think he might have damaged it ? Then he went to autozone to rent the tool and he said he could not get the piston fully compressed now any suggestions it would help thanks
I have a 99' Suzuki Vitara. could i do everything youre doing here on my car? its 4 wheel drive.
give it a try don't drill the screws without try to take em out.... just saying
What brakes does the Mazda 6 stop with? For example I always thought most cars use the front whee brakes to stop the car and the back where for the e brake but I find myself having a lot of issues with the back brake pads and rotor? Can anyone help out?
Very helpful thanks.
Great video....thanks I'm bona try it .....
I replace my brakes and now there's a scrubbing noise do you know what this is? JerryRigEverything
The bolts on my caliper are rusty and a 14 mm socket slipped 😢
heyyy mazda guy! 😏😏
1 your are suppose to use a impact chisel to remove the cross screws from the rotors (do not do what this guy did and drill them out) once remove. The. To push back the caliper piston you use a special tool that is sold at Orileys for 15 bucks and you do it the proper way so you don't damage any seals this guy did it wrong
Renee M the impact chisel has the potential to do the exact same thing and in a lot of cases you end up having to break off the head of screw to get it out. Also that tool at O'Reilly's you're talking about does the exact same thing as this guy's pliers did, both are truthfully going to run the same risk of damaging the seals. But calipers should be replaced or rebuilt every 75k miles according to the average owners manual.
Lord Redbeard in a way correct but I still have the original rotors screws and have not had to drill them out so I prefer doing it with chisel don't want your rotors slightly wobbling
I agree. I don't always have such luck. Truthfully you don't need them. I know the argument is always "well why would the manufacturer put them there?" The assembly line is the only reasonable answer. I mean honestly, is a screw holding a rotor in place better than lugnuts which are 100 psi and up?
Lord Redbeard in some cases true but these are back up holding devices for in case your tire gets Loose your rotor won't be all wobble and shit also to make it easier to install brakes
i have no screws all drilled easy to change
the rotor will no go will not fall off if i change my tire?
Mickleen Emuch The rotor is held in place by the tire itself.
great ! Thanks!~
I have a mazda 08 4 cyl someone told me my brakes have sensors or some crap that i shouldnt change them myself is this true??
+acmilanfan1011
The ABS sensor otherwise no
So many things wrong with this video, No brake clean used to clean the oils off the disc, no cleaning of the calliper, no check made on the guide pins, no lube or anti-seize used and you can unscrew those screws, Plus I personally flush the brake fluid but that's me. Other than that good video.
I turned clockwise and it didn't go inside ! I think you need to open oil screw to let the oil out
Yes and no. That would work but then you'd let air in the lines and need to bleed the brakes. It is a closed system.
JIS impact screwdriver. Using a drill is totally wrong approach.
JIS stands for Japanese Industrial Standards.
I have long watched you videos good sir and have a great deal of respect for you. However I cannot stand behind destructive repairs especially when there is room to educate your viewers. Why did you not utilize an impact screwdriver to properly remove the hubs!? I agree the hubs will be held in place when you mount the tires again...but this is still not the right way to do it.
If you do that, like in this video, you gona have a bad time. You must use copper spray, before putting everything back together. and clean all parts from rust
no need to bleed the lines?
Clay Huffman Not unless you remove the brake hoses.
Is this the same setup as a 2996 MX-5?
Oooops. 2006 MX-5
standingwave73 Most disk brakes are pretty similar, so id say ya, it would be pretty much the same set up. Ive never worked on an MX-5 before though.
You can get the screws out easily with an impact driver.
can you do mine?
5:46 why you flippin' me off bro?
That's Me
VERY usefull. Thanks :-D
John Kenneth Gloppen No problem! Thanks for watching!
Very funny.... (So the brake pads are in the caliber) don't show what to do with the hardware.
Here's the issues I have:
-Doesn't replace rotor retaining screws, R U serious! if they weren't needed the manufacture would not have included them, made the holes for them or manufactured them out of a more expensive corrosive resistant material.
-Drills the screws out without even assessing or trying anything else.
-No brake pad cleaner used, why not!?!?! $6 and should be a part of this job,
-No Brake pad lubricant, again why not!?!?! $3 at the counter of any major auto parts store. $3 buys the good synthetic brake grease by the way. you can buy the cheap stuff for $1. Also decent brake pads include the grease.
Sorry but this is about as Ghetto and 1/2 right of a brake job as I have seen.
Soak those screws with that PB blaster, let sit couple minutes try regular screw driver, ok doesn't work try tapping driver lightly with hammer ok doesn't work try impact driver, the one that turns slightly every time you hammer, should work. Very rarely should you have to drill those out. Those are treated screws and as you can see they are not corroded the rotor is. PS most auto parts stores will loan you a impact driver or harbor freight for under $10
rotors and pads with thank you with longer life when you clean them with brake cleaner after installation.
The pad need lubricant on the back and the sides so they can move. The pads will stick an wear unevenly, chew up your rotor or not even brake properly.
Nitrile gloves.
One thing you did do right was change the pads and rotor but also should consider the brake fluid which I believe the Mazda 6 manual says every 40K miles. Also pads should last 60K or better if your not hard stopping and beating on them. Rotors should last 100K
those screws are just used at the factory to keep the rotor in place during manufacturing and do not need to be replaced so settle down there sammy....
+Jeffrey Perry cite a source for your claim? Ghetto 1/2 right 1/2 wrong break job. Break fluid? Usually you want to bleed the breaks on a break job. Bet that break fluid has more copper than a Duracell. Even the little things like break cleaner and break grease were skipped. If your gonna make a video, tell people the right way, not the 1/2 right way.
Sam m ask any licenced mechanic. the rotor is held on by the wheel lugs. those screws do nuttin.
There's no such thing a licensed mechanic, no reason to drill those screws out to begin with
+Sam m There actually is such thing as a licensed mechanic, buddy. They study, go to school, and get licensed. But I do agree with you that the rotor screws need to be put back on, as an extra precaution. If the manufacturer has them there, they should stay there. Just an FYI though, licensing for auto mechanic is a thing.
You didn't grease anything dude.....thats not good...
J Hoornz Grease the bolts? or the caliper? Thats always an option, but not mandatory.
I thought it was very informative. I enjoyed the don't mess these areas up parts lol. My husband will be replacing brakes on this model wagon soon. Thanks.
Pff...if I would have watch your video before I start doing the replacement...I could have had more succes !
Sandu Razvan Now you know where to start next time!
I'll do that tomorrow...:D
Very good condition on that car....not the same down here in Denmark :D
Man if this is easy then what is changing an air filter that dealership charge people for $50.
M Mahdi Assefzadeh Air filters are so easy to replace. Literally takes 5 minutes.
JerryRigEverything I know, I'm saying brake pads could be really devastating esp. in snowy states where it gets really rusty around the rotors