Linsey, Just a couple of gentle points. You were correct to turn off the power. Once the power was off you should have unscrewed the receptacle from the box and pulled the plug out (with wires attached) and moved them to the right side and out of the way. This would leave the open, empty box left behind. This would have provided you all the space you needed. You would not use a spatula, rather you use a 2 or 4 inch puddy knife for this type of application. You are correct that you should have sanded the wood filler. You would have been able to match the patch bumpiness to the rest of the wall by applying thin vertical lines of caulk and pressing them slightly flat when the caulk was have dried. Then paint away. Regardless, your method is waterproof too. Regards.
I just happened upon this, looking for anyone using Minwax wood hardener. I have some particle board under the roof edge that needs help. I would suggest removing the faceplate and covering it with a bit of painter's tape, over the outlet itself. You could also use some Bondo stuff but it's ridged, and wood should flex so I try not to use that anymore. I don't know if that wood filler is flexible enough but I'm assuming it is considering it's actually meant for wood. Anyway, I take it the harder worked. Good job.
before the wood filler turns rock solid you can cut it with a knife, use a Surform planer (cheese grater) to trim, chisels, gouges, whatever to shape it
Without seeing this video I tried exactly the same formula with exactly the same products however I tested the area that was wood hardenered before I put on the wood filler and I found that the wood hardener did absolutely nothing The wood itself was still brittle and would flake off very easily. I felt like the wood harder was a complete waste of time and money. The wood filler does a great job and as she found on the outside it created a hard surface. There seemed to be absolutely no point in using the wood harder from my experience. I was working with redwood as my first primary wood that had decayed.
Interesting point! I've used both products a few times since and I feel like the hardener worked ok but I guess you are right that the wood filler works well enough on it own!
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Linsey,
Just a couple of gentle points.
You were correct to turn off the power. Once the power was off you should have unscrewed the receptacle from the box and pulled the plug out (with wires attached) and moved them to the right side and out of the way. This would leave the open, empty box left behind. This would have provided you all the space you needed.
You would not use a spatula, rather you use a 2 or 4 inch puddy knife for this type of application. You are correct that you should have sanded the wood filler. You would have been able to match the patch bumpiness to the rest of the wall by applying thin vertical lines of caulk and pressing them slightly flat when the caulk was have dried. Then paint away. Regardless, your method is waterproof too. Regards.
Thanks for the tips!
I like using those disposable "tongue depressor" sticks you buy at craft stores. That filler sets FAST and is brutal on tools you want to use again.
Great video! Nice work!
This is just what I need. I have some rotted boards inside a wall that need to be strengthened.
Awesome! Let me know if you have any questions.
Looks good enough to me. Thanks!
I think you did a great job!
Looks good
I just happened upon this, looking for anyone using Minwax wood hardener. I have some particle board under the roof edge that needs help. I would suggest removing the faceplate and covering it with a bit of painter's tape, over the outlet itself. You could also use some Bondo stuff but it's ridged, and wood should flex so I try not to use that anymore. I don't know if that wood filler is flexible enough but I'm assuming it is considering it's actually meant for wood.
Anyway, I take it the harder worked. Good job.
Pro tip. Plastic scrapers are cheap and can be trimmed down to any size with a razor knife for tight spots
before the wood filler turns rock solid you can cut it with a knife, use a Surform planer (cheese grater) to trim, chisels, gouges, whatever to shape it
Thank you! Very helpful!
You're welcome!
Maybe a smaller brush and larger screwdriver?
Did the hardener/filler take the primer and paint well?
Yes very well!
@@RepurposeandUpcycle Thank you!
Without seeing this video I tried exactly the same formula with exactly the same products however I tested the area that was wood hardenered before I put on the wood filler and I found that the wood hardener did absolutely nothing The wood itself was still brittle and would flake off very easily. I felt like the wood harder was a complete waste of time and money. The wood filler does a great job and as she found on the outside it created a hard surface. There seemed to be absolutely no point in using the wood harder from my experience. I was working with redwood as my first primary wood that had decayed.
Interesting point! I've used both products a few times since and I feel like the hardener worked ok but I guess you are right that the wood filler works well enough on it own!
Can't see it from Chicago!
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