In my opionion you haven't removed enough of the rotten timber before applying the hardener. For example, at minute 2:54 you can see several dark spots in the wood where probably are some traces left of wood rot, although the wood may feel hard enough. So it will rotten further under the wood hardener without noticing. You will notice it, when it's too late and the entire window is rotten...
I think you are right. It depends if it's just a 'quick fix', which maybe this is. I'm going to try the Ronseal liquid as it sounds good. For a proper job, the source/cause of the rot needs identifying and possibly the sill/frame replacing. Yes, a 'proper job', but a lot more expensive.
I think this stuff will never fully stop rot. Once it sets in, it is replacing windows time at the end of the day. This just buys some time and makes it look nice for a few years extra. Painting it with that slap white paint does not help either as traps moisture. I have done experiments with wood and paint like that and left them outdoors and painted rot faster.
I've just used this stuff, same as you but for a rotting door and frame. Can I just say, you missed a massive trick by not showing the sanding it down afterwards. This stuff sand so easily, it comes up beautifully smooth...
I’ve just sanded the gloss away from my window frames and sills just enough to apply satin paint. Would this be good enough to apply the ronseal first? Or does it need to be completely stripped down to the wood itself? Thanks for a great vid!
It’s strange stuff because you would think fully soaking the timber with it would work better, otherwise doesn’t it mean you only have a thin layer of wood that has hardened with soft underneath ?
Should try troupret wood filler it is much better got much more working time with it and it drys rock hard like 2 pack filler so u dont waste as much plus it is much easier to rub down
I used a similar wood hardener product and that is exactly what happened. However it looked better than the rotted hole until it got so bad that I had to replace the whole sill.
@@jacobstockley I think this stuff will never fully stop rot. Once it sets in, it is replacing windows time at the end of the day. This just buys some time and makes it look nice for a few years extra. Painting it with that slap white paint does not help either as traps moisture. I have done experiments with wood and paint like that and left them outdoors and painted rot faster.
On damp wood it wouldn't cure. It can be used to seal timber, but not for rotten timber. This product should only be used if the rotten timber is dry. Somehow to need to address the damp wood issue, dry it out, then apply wood hardener.
Hi, no you can't, the hardener needs to penetrate into the wood. You'll need to rub it down. Chances are, if you painted on rotten wood then the paint should come of quite easily.
Hi Justin, I’m making big bass marimba bars (percussion instrument that will be struck thousands of times with a medium hard mallet and will vibrate like crazy over and over and over). Traditionally they finished with oils and waxs, though I want to experiment with other stuff. For my experiment phase-in order of best to worst-can you please suggest/brainstorm what you think might work out for coating/sealing wooden bars that will be taking a lot of inherent abuse? With all the beating and vibrating, for instance, might shellac or lacquer or polyurethane or wood hardener or an acrylic poor be too brittle, resulting in getting rattled and crushed to death and breaking apart microscopically over time? Also consider which finish would be the most scratch resistant. (Bars will be stored in stacks and slid against each other with the potential of dirt and sand bits in between. Thanks for brainstorming with me 👍🏻
@@boomboomrev Thanks. I ended up going with Penetrating Epoxy. And used Total Fair, fairing compound to build up the holes; the marine equivalent of "bondo". 👍
This product does not last when it hardens very little will stick to it permanently. Professionals use repair care resin.. same with the wood filler we call it Two pac Only to be used sparingly and not for deep filling again this product doesn’t last long. However, using Weathershield system 123 will prolong its life.
I know absolutely nothing about this sort of thing but this video has helped me loads. Thank you.
You're welcome
Thanks for taking the time to show how these products work or how to use them lol thanks mate
Very impressed tutorial delivered with clarity. Look forward to more in the future. Regards Rob
Cheers Rob 👍
This reminds me how nice spring was in that first lockdown :D
awesome birdsong
Dam do you remember just how warm, sunny and chill it was?
In my opionion you haven't removed enough of the rotten timber before applying the hardener. For example, at minute 2:54 you can see several dark spots in the wood where probably are some traces left of wood rot, although the wood may feel hard enough. So it will rotten further under the wood hardener without noticing. You will notice it, when it's too late and the entire window is rotten...
I think you are right. It depends if it's just a 'quick fix', which maybe this is. I'm going to try the Ronseal liquid as it sounds good.
For a proper job, the source/cause of the rot needs identifying and possibly the sill/frame replacing. Yes, a 'proper job', but a lot more expensive.
@@nigelh3253 I expect it just needed repainting and wasn't.. unfortunately you need time and/or money to keep on top of these maintenance tasks.
I think this stuff will never fully stop rot. Once it sets in, it is replacing windows time at the end of the day. This just buys some time and makes it look nice for a few years extra. Painting it with that slap white paint does not help either as traps moisture. I have done experiments with wood and paint like that and left them outdoors and painted rot faster.
This was so helpful..both of us are useless at this stuff...but this really helped.thanks.
Glad it helped 👍
@@JBTV Hows the repair held up? Would be great to see a photo after 3 years of weather.
Thank you. This is EXACTLY when I needed to see!
I've just used this stuff, same as you but for a rotting door and frame. Can I just say, you missed a massive trick by not showing the sanding it down afterwards. This stuff sand so easily, it comes up beautifully smooth...
Wickes 2 pack filler is way better and cheaper it rubs down even better
I would have liked to see how easy that was to smooth down once it had hardened
Going to use this on some pine cones then set in some resin and turn on my lathe to make dragons eggs
Excellent video. I would have liked to have also seen the sanded, then painted, surfaces. Thank you 🙂 🇦🇺🦘
glad you had trouble with the stupid container lids!
@@doctorshawzy6477 haha, yes, they are a pain in the arse 🤣
Wanted to see the sanded down, repainted finish. Gna try this stuff my self. Thanks
What sort of putty did you use? I was thinking of using builders bog?
I’ve just sanded the gloss away from my window frames and sills just enough to apply satin paint. Would this be good enough to apply the ronseal first? Or does it need to be completely stripped down to the wood itself? Thanks for a great vid!
If paint doesnt chip away u should. Be good if u sanded it good
What if there's a gaping hole? It's two posts holding the porch canopy outside my house
It’s strange stuff because you would think fully soaking the timber with it would work better, otherwise doesn’t it mean you only have a thin layer of wood that has hardened with soft underneath ?
This used to work for me but I'm now finding the wood does not go hard. Any thoughts?
Is this good to put on old woodworm
Nice video and spot on explanation of application but the phrase "you missed a bit" seems to apply to your brushwork application
This guy needs a video on how to open child proof packaging hehe
Should try troupret wood filler it is much better got much more working time with it and it drys rock hard like 2 pack filler so u dont waste as much plus it is much easier to rub down
I'll give it a go at some point 👍
But does it stop the rotting process? I worry about it rotting inside out
I used a similar wood hardener product and that is exactly what happened. However it looked better than the rotted hole until it got so bad that I had to replace the whole sill.
@@jacobstockley I think this stuff will never fully stop rot. Once it sets in, it is replacing windows time at the end of the day. This just buys some time and makes it look nice for a few years extra. Painting it with that slap white paint does not help either as traps moisture. I have done experiments with wood and paint like that and left them outdoors and painted rot faster.
Can you use it on larger areas?
Should remove the old paint from around the rot.
That's amazing!! Do you think some neat PVA would work the same way on damp wood?
On damp wood it wouldn't cure. It can be used to seal timber, but not for rotten timber. This product should only be used if the rotten timber is dry. Somehow to need to address the damp wood issue, dry it out, then apply wood hardener.
Did you mix some hardener into the filler before applying ??
Always!
Hey Justin good video, what are you filming this with, feels like I am there next to you the quality is so good. ???
Thank u
Hey Justin, good video. Can I apply wood hardener on freshly painted wood?
Hi, no you can't, the hardener needs to penetrate into the wood. You'll need to rub it down. Chances are, if you painted on rotten wood then the paint should come of quite easily.
Hi Justin,
I’m making big bass marimba bars (percussion instrument that will be struck thousands of times with a medium hard mallet and will vibrate like crazy over and over and over). Traditionally they finished with oils and waxs, though I want to experiment with other stuff. For my experiment phase-in order of best to worst-can you please suggest/brainstorm what you think might work out for coating/sealing wooden bars that will be taking a lot of inherent abuse? With all the beating and vibrating, for instance, might shellac or lacquer or polyurethane or wood hardener or an acrylic poor be too brittle, resulting in getting rattled and crushed to death and breaking apart microscopically over time? Also consider which finish would be the most scratch resistant. (Bars will be stored in stacks and slid against each other with the potential of dirt and sand bits in between. Thanks for brainstorming with me 👍🏻
Wow, thanks for your message. I'm thinking yacht varnish, it's tough stuff, and gives a nice finish...
@@JBTV Yacht varnish. Alright, I'll give it a try. Thanks for getting back.
What product was used for filler? Was it 2 part poxy?
Ronseal 2 part wood filler
Is "minwax wood hardener" the same product as "wet-rot wood hardener"??
hmmm, not sure
@@boomboomrev Thanks. I ended up going with Penetrating Epoxy. And used Total Fair, fairing compound to build up the holes; the marine equivalent of "bondo". 👍
looks like a plastination process...
Can't be shipped to California,Can't be sold in California.no choice i have to buy the horrible California stuff.
I think Minwax make a very similar product over there
bondo or body filler also works, just dremel out the rotted part.as much as possible.
This product does not last when it hardens very little will stick to it permanently. Professionals use repair care resin.. same with the wood filler we call it Two pac Only to be used sparingly and not for deep filling again this product doesn’t last long. However, using Weathershield system 123 will prolong its life.