I'll take the 383 but I do love the 360 as well. In an A-body the packaging is nice on the 360LA, but in a B/C body, I'll choose 383 every time. The downside is weight and the extra mandatory 727 parasitic drag when you can get the 904 benefits for free with the 360. Magnum heads and strokers make the LA start looking better, but bang for the buck, I'll still take the torquey big block!!
Never owned a big block ,just can't find one with a reasonable price tag or even someone willing to sell. Small blocks are were it's at for me.Thats all I know, I'm in a happy place around all A blocks . Easy and compatible fun for the win. Thanks for reading this have a wonderful day.
I'm an A body guy! Small block for me! I'd definitely try a 383 in a truck or a B body. I did have a 75 Dodge truck with a 383 many years ago. It was fun!
I'm a big block guy so naturally I'd choose the 383. However... I've built some pretty dang nice 360s in the past that I'd happily drive. Both are great engines so if I had to choose, it would boil down to what it is going in.
I currently have a 440 in my scamp and a 360 in my 79 little red express, and I have had one 383 in a 77 dodge ramcharger, I just prefer the 360 Cheaper to build and to add hp and the used parts market is much more available I find, and I ran the dog out of the 360's that I wont do to my 440, the 360 can take a lot of beatings in my opinion and parts are so much cheaper, as far weight differences my book lists the weight as 670# including manifolds, small block at 550#.. again just my opinion if you have an A body with a big block and a 727 gear it high nothing lower than a 323 and with the small block gear it lower 373 or lower even, again just my opinion for the street, thanks for the video Tim.
The 383 will get better MPG in a street application as well, I have never seen a 360 pull down any MPG. I got better mileage (by far) with my '71 Sport Fury 383/727/2.76 gears than my '92 D150 (transplanted) Magnum 360/5.9L-46RH o/d 3.55 (2.45 effective gear in o/d) or 2000 Durango 5.9L 2wd 46RE 3.55 gears (2.45 effective in o/d). I guess it's the shorter stroke? The 5.9 Magnums both have efficient multi-point EFI and the Fury had a Theromquad (that I added, along with the intake) off a '72 400HP.
@@BigBadJones That's amazing. Long ago I had a Buick 455 LeSabre Custom with a TH400 and 2.56 gears that got 19 a time of two in perfect conditions on the interstate. Usually it was about 17, but those were the days of 55mph speed limits.
The 360 is a good engine no doubt. But, the 383 even with its larger size and weighing more gets my preference. I've had many of both. The 383 consistently gets better fuel mileage for me. Pretty much bulletproof bottom end, the heads are much better matched for the 383 than the 440. I think Vizard said "the 440 was a big engine with small block heads". 383 rod ratio is really good. Nice to be able to remove the intake without any coolant loss. Distributor in front is a big plus. I guess it depends what each engine will be going into and the application.
Small blocks in A bodys. Big blocks in B and E bodys. Cummins in trucks. Ive had all the above but B engines are the easiest to work on. Front distributor, deep skirt block/flat oil pan, external oil pump and water pump mounting removal for cam changes. I have a motor home 440 spare but Im keeping the 318 in my W 150 because of its light weight. So it depends on application which is best.
Simple comparison and fitment for an A body. I have had a 383 stroked to 426 in a 71 duster was a complete pain. If I was to do it again, I would build a 360 stroked to 408 with trick flow heads and a dual plane intake. nice mild hydraulic roller cam and make 500 HP and have a motor that fits an A body and is even lighter . Lots of advantages.
I like your line of thought. I’d rather have a 360 in A-body. 383 is awesome. Look at their success in the roadrunner. But for me, the la is better suited for my 65 barracuda.
360 Magnum all the way, stock roller cam setup, heads that can support 400hp stock, 4" bore is good, 904 trans option is good! Compression on a magnum is 9.0:1 which is friendly for pump gas! The magnum has better sealing as well with a one piece rubber pan gasket, better sealing on rocker covers, its so nice to have a motor that doesn't leak oil. A cam, intake and 4 bbl carb will see a magnum make in the high 300 gross hp range, down side is the heads are all cracked! 360 Magnums are 30 plus years old now.
360 all the way for me. Because I love small block Mopars! My all time favorite motors. Give a 360 some compression and they really wake up. That being said, the car that got me into Mopars was my parent's 383 Roadrunner..
For a stockish or mild street build in an A-body I would definitely go for the 360, lighter and easier to work on. For a max all out build the 383 would probably be a better choice just because you can bore and stroke it to almost 90 cubes more and you will make more power.
YOUR KIDDING ...RIGHT! no stock 360 318 or 340 can hold a candle to the 383 big block!.. then add money no object and still the 383 is the better choice!...... just one thing no coolant in intake manifiold gives the 383 the advantage big blocks are king!
@@318willrunthat said I have love for the small block too...76 charger 360 74 charger 360 72 dart 318 roller and my 87 daily driver Ramcharger 318 roller...
Both of these engines have great potential. Neither were very exciting in stock form. Very durable engines and easy to hop up. For me either one fits the bill!
Mever had experience with big blocks. Everybody wants 1500 for a non running that was pulled 15 years ago. I can tell you that the 360 is awesome. Dont like the bore size? Bore it 40 over to a 340 size. The 360s extra stroke makes it an awesome engine. For a small block.
With the invention of 360 stroker kits, The 360 is the Smart Move Because of the Size Difference. Even If you Don't Stroke the 360 the Power you can get for the Money you Will Spend gives the 360 the Win in my Humble Opinion. In the End It's All about Power to Weight. Thanks for the Great Video!
@@318willrun definitely I’m biased 383 is my favorite engine, but out of the box you have a stronger block, forged crank, better flowing heads, better lifter angle, internal balance, dry intake manifold, and finally the distributor is easier to service. Just off the top of my head
I like both engines, they both have their pros and cons. The 383 is a shorter stroke engine, which should make it quicker revving than a 360. But the 383 is also heavier, and heavier in the worst place - the front of the car. I tend to lean toward the 360 because of the weight savings, and also they provide a lot more space under the hood and headers are easier to live with. If I were to have a 383, it would have to be in a B or E body (or C body or truck) because there is more room under the hood. A big block in an A body is just such a tight fit, and the weight distribution is not good.
Because I have A body cars I am happy with a 360. I know people with big block A body cars. Greatvan a straight line but they don't handle bends very well. Suspension is not designed for the weight either.
A couple of years ago, a friend of mine wanted to revive his long dormant 1968 New Yorker. 440 was seized. I had a well worn 383 from a Polara. Got him on the road for a year. It became his daily driver. Then he got the itch to swap in an LA 360 from a 79 Newport mainly for the availability of consumable parts. He says the power change is almost unnoticeable. But a gear swap is next for the grocery getter as his town driving rarely get the long legged car into 3rd gear. He finds comfort in being able to walk into the parts store and walking out with parts same day, as opposed to waiting on ordered big block parts.
It depends on what car it is going in. If its going in a challenger I would pick the 383. If its going in a Duster I will pick a 360. Great video as always.
Man oh man, you opened a barrel of pickles with this one! 383 all the way! I’ve got to go on the weight comparison video I had a while back. Let’s buy some aluminum heads and have a low deck party! In my last 3 years of pulling transmissions and swapping converters, I prefer the big block swap now. I can reach the bellhousing bolts, and not worry about those pesky 5-7 plug wires rubbing on that header. What’s a 904? 😂
Awesome my friend! I understand where your coming from! As for the 5-7 plug wires, you just needed to get away from the 199.99 headers 😂 Now for your question, I provide this smrtrans.tripod.com/smrtransmissionsintro/id9.html
My brother and i have been having this conversation lately. He has a 69 coronet with the 383 he's building and I'm looking to get a early 70s coronet and I'm thinking about a 360. I don't know as much as him, I'm looking to build a cool fun daily driver that gets good gas and plan on sticking oem mostly. Maybe swap heads ect. Keep it simple and reliable. For my purpose we both agree the 360 is my better option. It's got plenty of power for a daily.
The 383 high performance cylinder heads are a good size for 383 power. In 1971 police car trials, the early 1971 high compression AMC 401 engine completely outperformed the 1971 low compression 383 engine. The 401 is more modern and had a compression ratio advantage at the beginning of the 1971 model year, though late 1971 401's have low compression ratio. The 383 engine is a "heavy" engine for a 383 size engine. The 1971 360 had flat top pistons but they were very far down from the cylinder heads, make them rather inefficient. The 1972 360 got dished pistons, that seem to work a bit better. The 360 has a much better, lighter weight, for a 360 size engine, than the 383 and the 360 is a more modern design.
The newest 383 is now 54 years old. The newest Magnum 360s are still running on the roads and filling the junkyards for cheap. B engine 727vtransmissions have been harder to find for decades. All forms of Torqueflites and 4 speed automatic versions fit the 360(mileage and driveability advantage right there). The Chevy and Ford Cascar series rivals call the 360s "baby Hemis", because of their unfair torque advantage coming out of the turns. K frame changes and motor mount issues for smaller Mopars add expense and complication to using the 383. The rest of the reasons have been well hashed out by others. I grew up with high compression 383s and loved em'. I was also one of those who looked at the new 360s as weaker, yet plenty thirsty options, until Ed Hambuger and his 340/360 shop changed all our minds on the 360.
I’ll take the 360, in part I think because everyone dumps on it so why not. And if does give you more room in the engine bay, and sometimes the lack of a head ache is enough.
Great video and thanks for posting this question for all of us to chime in on, I’m not really biased or highly prefer one more than the other I like ‘em all from the slant 6 up to the 440 including the Gen 3 hemis, i do agree with you that a small block in an A body is the way to go for the very reasons you mentioned 👍🏻👍🏻
I prefer a 383 and more likely the 400 really . But if you want one and have the other in car it is very costly now to do engine swap compared to few years back. best if you had a small block being able to utilize the existing drivetrain and just beef those up. same for keeping a big block. it the weight seems like much well not really , you can just by bolt on replacement big block heads.
Some say 383 has better crank less bottom end issues. Generally speaking, there's no replacement for displacement. The number you quoted did not include at what rpms. On a graph of HP and TQ, I beleive the area under the curve is more important than peak numbers.
Great point on the RPM the numbers are made! Just what I was looking for, the thought process behind the "why's" from you all. I tried to do my best not to lead in any direction towards either engine!
440 or go home!!! I have a 1970 Cuda with a stroked 440. This VS 502 is one heck of a power house and it was my ticket for a Division 1 title. 360 are boat anchors, put the money into a 440 and stop thinking about the weight difference. The power increase of a 440 will make up for the weight difference.
I rescued my 383 like a stray dog. Its in my challenger for resale value. It used to have a 340. The 340 was a stronger higher reving engine but it did have a 6 pac and 391 gears. Never thought of the 383 as a taxi motor. Thats the 318 s job. The low deck big block fits nice and with aluminum top end it weighs the same as a small block.
I have built a 383 stroker (489) with 440 Source heads. Ran very well. However to me it depends which body you are using? A body - SB. B or E body 383.
It all depends on the purpose. If I wanted a 1/4-mile machine, I would go with the big block...more notably the 400 or the 440 because they increased the strength of the mains in the late 70's. As for a daily driver, The LA is the better option since it is so easy to get an automatic overdrive transmission option for it. Yes, there are standards out there, but these days my knees can no longer handle the clutch due to years of employment abuse. Fun fact, if you like fast RPM gains, the "B" block has a shorter stroke than the 360, nearly as short as the 318. Great video, thanks for sharing.
I'v had both and prefer the small block it is easier for me to get around and work with take an intake and heads off in the car much easier I don't care for the distributor location on small block butt what are you going to do preferred LA to Magnum but that has mostly do with engine controls
"la" had that valve lifter bore angle inherited from the polysphere issue causing issues above 5500, so if you are going to run it hard with the stock block the lifter angle in the 383 is the better choice. ps I had an uncle with a 383 2 brl would get 25 imperial mpg.
I'm in my early 30s , for me its 360. Seems like i can find info and parts for it easier. I wasn't around for the muscle car days. My 1st gen project i bought also came with a 360 , so I'm sticking with what i got to keep budget in check
Aftermarket support for both is whooooo, expensive. Why the Mopar tax? I've had them since the late '70s. Every other make is MUCH cheaper to build for more HP/TQ, dollar to dollar. After all this time, we shouldn't be paying sometimes double for parts.
Traded in my 67 GTX conv w/440 super commando on my 72 Demon. The insurance companies came after the muscle cars back then. $100 a year went to $100/mo. I miss the GTX. Been since 72 since I owned a BB. But I’ve liked the small blocks. Have a 360 in my Demon. Makes a good driver. Light enough to rip pretty good.
ive seen small blocks at the strip on on the streets racing and out do a big block especially due to weight. but i also like big blocks , slant6s ect. Also a big block in an A-body is a great choice as well weight ratio
Street strip a 383 better head options from the factory and aftermarket. Most big block mopar heads stock are 198cc- 205cc vs 165-169cc on a 360 head. You have the 240 and 270cc big block TF heads you have a the 190cc trick flow for the small block. A daily driver a 360 with a 215- 218@50 cam nice daily 2.92-3.23 9.5cr with 175 cc eddy head
I bought mine first mopar 5 years ago, it is a 69 coronet 2 door hardtop wilth a 360 and 904.. the car whas not running when i bought. Before i even looked at the engine i was like " B body needs big block" But i was curious at the 360, it was mildly build with headers, Edelbrock intake, 340 J heads roller rockers etc .. and 904. Has a shifter kit . I started the car up, and drove it around.... Man i was impressed.. it was high reving and fast. Even smoked some standard big block cars So i im going to keep the 360, want to rebuild it with aluminum head and thinking of a stroker kit. It is lighter and hase useble HP an torq. What is 600+ hp if you don't can get it on the ground
Look at the blocks alone, which on is beefier, cast iron to cast iron. I had both, one in my charger 383 and one in my pickup 360, both 4BL. The 383 on the go had more pull. 68 charger and 1985 ram prospector 1/2 ton 4x4
I have to say I do like both engines, but if I had to choose, I would be hard pressed not to go with the 383 mainly because of how easy it is to work on. It's hard to beat the dizzy up front, the dry intake, the external oil pump, and the 4 bolt water pump, but you're exactly right. What the engine is going in plays a big factor for me it just has to make sense.
Well…… this comment is going to anger a lot of people, but it’s true. My Dodge just happens to be a big block car in vin. So about two years ago, I decided to go shopping for a big block for my Dodge, since mine came with a 383. I found one on craigslist that was marked down from $8500 down to $3200, I drove to the mountains here in Colorado and got it picked up. it came with all of the fancy names like Keith Black Pistons! Lunati voodoo cam! Solid roller crane cam rockers! My expectations were that I finally found an engine that’s gonna put me in the 12s so I pulled out my tired 400 big block and installed this supposedly hot little 383 in my Dodge. To my dismay, I cannot get it to even get into the 13s here in Colorado. Now you’re probably thinking that I’m doing something wrong and you’re probably right, but I have FBO ignition, 456 gears, brand new 750 carburetor. I cannot help to think I made some mistake. The guy that built the engine told me that I just got better heads then I would be able to dip into the 12s here in Colorado. This is obviously my next, but quite a big investment since I already have closed chamber heads on my Dodge with 10 1/2 to one compression. But I am going to try it anyway. Don’t get me wrong, I still love my car and have fun with it and it drives like a new car and runs great. I just want to go faster! Did I make a mistake. Should I have small block? Or 440?
If I'm building a cruiser, ill take the 360, and put a 518 behind it. The Magnum 360/518 can still be had for less than $1000 complete. Add a 3.91 rear gear, and cruise at 2300 rpm or so at 70 mph. If I'm looking at a street brawler, I'd go 383, and build it as light as possible. After seeing @JustMoparJoe video on weight, it took the weight advantage argument for the small block and threw it out the window.
@318willrun I'd like to add, that at a test and tune at a drag strip, it's a lot easier to tune with a distributor on the front of the engine, and change intakes at the track with a big block not having to dump the water out of it.
Had a 66 383 originally a 2 barrel version, tore it down went with .30 over with heavy TRW 383 magnum replacement pistons, worked out to be 9.5:1 compression with a pair of 906 heads cut 0.28 due to pistons so far in the hole. Mild porting job on heads and a torker2 intake stock valves. 484 mopar performance purple shaft cam. Crane roller tip rockers and a mopar performance electronic ignition kit and distributor, 750cfm holley mechanical secondary carb. Hooker 17/8” headers, 3,000 tci converter and 727 automatic with turbo action manual valve body, dana 60 rear with 4:56 gears and Hoosier p295 quick times tires in a 83 ram D150 short bed full weight 3,700 pounds without driver best time was a 12:50 at 109 mph with a 1:83 sixty foot way back in 1992 so I guess you know which i’d pick nothing against the 360 great engine 👍
What a great comparison. With that said, this one is really application driven. The 360 is a decent small block ( although the 340 is better IMO) but the potential for more power in a racing application is where the 383 shines. I would prefer the larger bore size of the 380, especially with modern Fuel Injection and boost.
383* I think you brought up great points about which vehicle you are putting the engine in as well. I love the small block Mopar platforms, of them all the 360 is my least favorite due to it's external balancing..... So for that reason alone (I build most manual cars) I'd stick with the 383, and the option for better flowing heads.
I put parts together for my 68 dart for nearly 20 years. Stroked 400 ie 470ci with 727 was always the plan. By the time I had all the parts together the market on SB stuff had exploded. Stroker kits relatively inexpensive aftermarket heads with great numbers. I put the 470 together and in and don't regret it because it's terrific but if I was doing it now or again it would be small block simply because of the A body platform I'm using.
The only stock 383 to 360 comparison I have would be my '71 Charger 4-bbl to my old 1976 Cordoba 360 4-bbl,, so last year 383 to smogged out 360 the 383 wins. Closest mild modified versions would be when I rebuilt the 383 with the high compression flat top pistons (still only in the 9ish to 1 ratio) with the crower 271 compu-cam, stock rockers, 906 heads with stock size valve, and mild port cleanup sand weiand intake. vs 360 with 9ish to 1 flat top pistons, stock heads/valves with mild port cleanup, small crower baja beast cam (I think 210? @ 0.050" duration) I think it had a holley street dominator intake and 600 holey carb. That 360 was built for torque and ran really good with decent gas mileage. I think that might be close to or better than the stock 383, but not the modified one. 360 I have now is KB-232 quench dome pistons, stock iron heads but with the larger valves and hardened exhaust seats. Good amount of porting, and milling (for quench), but righ around 9.5:1 compression. The Hughes Engines 216/220 duration cam with 1.6:1 aluminum rocker arms, Edelbrock Performer with EGR intake, port matched, and 670 truck avenger carb (about to convert to sniper efi.) This 360 would might have as much peak horse power (or more) as the modified 383, but with a larger torque curve. It's a nice combo. Wish I had money to engine dyno it as it seems stronger than I thought it would have been? One thing I noticed is I never had overheating issues with the small blocks, where it is more of a problem with the big block cars I have, but again, not a good comparison because the 360s were in trucks and the big blocks were in B-body cars? FWIW, the 360 was in the RamCharger I rolled, and is now going into the '69 Coronet 500 replacing the 318.
My uncle had a 78 power wagon with a 360 and it was a slug and got terrible gas mileage. I’ve seen some great running 360s at the track. You can make any engine perform and the a body argument is a good one. I love 383s raced them for years. I prefer them to 440s. 383 revs quicker and higher and lives longer doing it. What little you lose on the bottom end it more than makes up for in the mid range and higher rpm though the traps.
I tried the 383 and it wasn't what I wanted so I went with good old 440. Attempting to do a 4 barrel swap on my first 360 so I guess will see how that goes. I really like the old reliable 318.
I’ll go for the 383 all dat long! I’ve seen a 383 in a 68 Charger with 9-1 compression and the mildest solid cam we could find run 11’s. Think of it this way, it’s a destroyed 426. Or it’s a bored out 340. The bore size of 4.25 is the same for the 426 wedge, 426 Hemi and 383. The difference is the stroke. The 426 has a 3.75” stroke while the the 383 had a 3.38” stroke. The only other difference is the deck height. The 340 has a bore of 4.04”, smaller that the 383 and the 340 has a stroke of 3.31” stroke. The same as a 318 Poly or LA, the 383 has a slightly longer stroke of 3.38. That a difference of only .07”. Also on the show Engine Masters they took a Mopar 383 and put it up against a Chevy 383 Stroker. They kept all the specs the same for both engines. Same can, intake, carb etc. then they ran both motors and their out put was identical. The Chevy had a bore of 4.03” and a stroke of 3.75, so the expectation is that it would make more low end torque. It didn’t. Also the Chevy had roller rockers and a whole bunch of aftermarket parts to hold it together. In contrast the Mopar doesn’t need all those expensive parts to sun strong and stay together. The 360 is basically the same story, but aftermarket heads are almost a must. the pushrod punch in the head restricts flow, but Mopar was very smart and decreased the valve inclination angle and biased the port to do a better job of filling the cylinder. Compared to the stock Chevy head it was more of a high swirl design. That was improved on later in e magnum heads, which will work on an LA engine.
let me start by saying I'm a fairly young guy, I'm only 25 but I've had a love for classic Mopars since I can remember. That being said I'm taking a 360 over the 383 for a few reasons. Number 1 being that I've built 4 small block Mopars in the past, 2 360's, a 318 and a 340. I've never built a big block, and while I'd love to I just have small block parts laying around that I could use. I don't have extra big block water pumps, valve covers, intakes, etc. like I do small block parts, so a small block is just easier to build for me since I have parts laying around that I can use, thus making it overall cheaper to build a stout street engine. But if I'm going money no object, maximum effort build it's gonna be a big block. They can hold more power than any factory cast small block besides the X and R series small blocks, and for an all out build, it's gonna be cheaper to start with a big block. Both have their pros and cons, but for a street engine I'd go small block all day, and for an all out race engine I'd go big block no questions asked.
Big blocks with sticks for the track, small block with autos for the strip! Sticks great for high speed breaking assistance and autos eliminate missing gears in short runs!
Ima 360 for a few reasons ...way more parts and support w aftermarket. And weight between the two and a more modern engine line. P.s i have a truck so 360 for me good video
I’ve thought about putting a 383 in my 75 RR because to me the 383 is the engine that made the Road Runner. If I had weight or packaging issues, like with an A body., I’d go 360.
I like them both! The issue with 360 swaps is the external balance cast crank, and you can't swap 318/340 oil pans onto a 360. On the other hand the small block will bolt up to the 904, 727, 518/46RH. I also like the small block spark plug access and overall smaller size. The 383 is internal balance, and oil pans swap with other big blocks. Hard to compare stock performance as it would vary by year and if 2 or 4 bbl carb (or Magnum EFI), and then if the 360 is LA vs. Magnum? They can both be modified to meet the users needs. The Small block lifter angle has never been a problem for me, but my 360's stay under 6,000 RPM. Note that if you are going to put a 6-71 blower on a stroked 360, use the forged crank! The 383 larger bore can use heads with larger valves, and an easy 496" engine stroked. Make the heads, intake and water pump aluminum and not much of a weight penalty.
I prefer the 383 I’m currently building a 383 stroked to a 431. And I am putting it in AA body it’s gonna be tight but I’m using 19 7071, HP High Flow exhaust manifold . Thank you for the info I enjoyed the video.
The lighter small block LA 360 everyday, and twice on Sunday, over the older / fatso big block RB 383 as the 360 has a better aftermarket support plus drop-in interchangeability with Mopars that came with a 273 or 318 or a blown-up 340.
I've never seen any reason to mess with a 383 unless its an original to the car engine. Better to run a 440. Between the 383 and 360 I'll take the small block.
I’d eventually like to build a big block for my coronet. But for now swapping in an early 360 just because it was cheap and easy. Bought a running 360 and transmission 727 out of a motorhome for $500..and it’ll bolt right in place of the 318/904 that I blew up years ago.
Having done servicing and repairs on both, the 383 (Jensen lnterceptors)felt to be a monster, whereas the 360 (Chrysler by Chrysler)a little more civilised, both motors never failed to impress me all those years ago, in the late seventies in Melbourne, Australia...
With stock stroke home build, it's pretty even. The heads, homeported, are pretty equal. The 360 has about a 60 lb weight advantage with similar equipment. Both with a pump gas CR will be at the 400 hp level. With stock displacement, I think I would pick the 360. If stroked, you will not get easily over 408 with the 360. With more expensive cranks you can go to 426. A 383 can easily take 4.25" stroke for 496 cu in. That is a difference. Easy to get to 500 hp level with basic parts, and at low rpm. Not so with a 408, you will be around 50 hp behind and at higher rpm, less tq.
Small blocks are dirt cheap and plentiful , I went to the magnum block for a cheap roller block . Where I live big blocks are going for a arm and leg and even the big block 727s ....
I had the choice between the LA 360 and a 440 motorhome engine for my 74 D100. I chose the 360.. you guessed it, weight difference. The other reason, I had a 318 already, makes the swap easy.
I had a 73 roadrunner 360 4barrel. People that rode in it always said it felt like a big block because the power and torque they could feel. E58 engine
Truth is I like old stuff 318 poly is my choice its unique and affordable here in nz big block parts are expensive hemi gen 1 parts same thing way to expensive so the poly makes for something a bit different and is reasonable
I've got an e body with a magnum 360/904. Mild cam. I love the handling and extra room around the lighter small block. I also have a 78 D200 with a 400. It's a great motor for that truck! Probably a little more torque than a stock 360 would have.
Hi love the channel and the videos. I have a 1969 Plymouth b body. The oil pan is touching the motor mount on the passenger side only. It has a grove in the pan lip. Is this a symptom of bad motor mounts? Thanks.
@318willrun yes it is the original engine and pan. I checked on other cars with both having the same thing. It's only at the front passenger side. Also it is the original motor mount. I appreciate your feedback as I have learned a ton on the channel.
383 .030 block + 4.25 stroke = 550 hp with stock Pro Comp heads. My buddy has one in a '70.Dart with a mild .520 hydraulic roller & it's a beast! Same car with a fairly aggressive 360 was also a beast. Toss up between them. I'm more of a small block guy though. I've accumulated enough stuff where I can make pretty good power with a 360 based stroker.
I've had a number of both and would 'probably' take a 383 but I will say they are not as tractable as a 360 due to the short stroke, rotating mass and for an over-square engine has a pretty short stroke for a big block. A 383 NEEDS to be treated like a BIG small block engine. No huge overlap or gigantic cams. Just be conservative and it'll perform. With current or even past pistons it's tough to get the compression distance where it needs to be or you'd want it. There aren't nearly even a fraction of the parts to make a 383 build perform anywhere like a 360. It's really just a matter of the image of a 383 or the ease, practicality and performance of a 360. The LA version of the 360 was never 'really' a performance engine. It had a 340 cam, double roller timing set and TQ and dual exhaust (factory). I really ever only had ONE 383 that was a 'screamer'. It was a worn out (100k+) '71 Road Runner with an auto and 3.23 gears. It was bone stock and would run rings around some 440's I owned. Must have been one of the cars that came together with just the 'right' tolerances. It was low compression and had the factory Holley too. It was impressive but I had a stock E58 that I 'super tuned' to at least that level. So my answer is a 360 is easier to make perform all around and would be easier to make out perform a 383. Funny story. I have a '70 Dodge W200 PowerWagon with a stock 383 HP (original). It has 383 Magnum fender badges (factory). I was at a truck stop/diner a couple years ago and drove my truck and some guy (saw the badges) and says 'That has a stroked Chevy engine?' I just turned around and walked away.
@@318willrun Long time ago 1996 or so, I had a '71 Satellite Sebring Plus (318 car) I transplanted a 440 6bbl 4 speed and 8 3/3 into. My then daily. Was grey primer and no emblems anywhere. I went to a sheetmetal shop to get some metal for bodywork and I heard a guy inside say 'I think it's a Torino' OMG!
I have had many people call my Cuda a Camaro. I was once at a car event in my Cuda and a guy parked next to me with a nice 69 Camaro. He got out walked up to me and said "nice Camaro". He laughed and said he was getting me back for people that called his car a Cuda. So I guess it works both ways.
I’d like to see another 318 v 360 magnum poll. I’ve seen many high torque builds lately with these engines. Most I’ve seen say that a striker 318 is more durable with the same outcome due to more cylinder wall. I think for a cheap street/strip car you can build an amazingly fast stroked 318 magnum.
![I.N "HALLUCINATION" | [Stray Kids : SKZ-PLAYER]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/n5B5q1Hwt_U/mqdefault.jpg)
I'll take the 383 but I do love the 360 as well. In an A-body the packaging is nice on the 360LA, but in a B/C body, I'll choose 383 every time. The downside is weight and the extra mandatory 727 parasitic drag when you can get the 904 benefits for free with the 360. Magnum heads and strokers make the LA start looking better, but bang for the buck, I'll still take the torquey big block!!
You have a lot of folks in your camp on that view!!! It's not wrong either!
Never owned a big block ,just can't find one with a reasonable price tag or even someone willing to sell. Small blocks are were it's at for me.Thats all I know, I'm in a happy place around all A blocks . Easy and compatible fun for the win. Thanks for reading this have a wonderful day.
Price matters! Small block will certainly keep a smile on our faces!
I'm an A body guy! Small block for me! I'd definitely try a 383 in a truck or a B body. I did have a 75 Dodge truck with a 383 many years ago. It was fun!
I hear ya for sure !!!! Many a small block A-bodies have left BB's seeing tailights!
I'm a big block guy so naturally I'd choose the 383. However... I've built some pretty dang nice 360s in the past that I'd happily drive. Both are great engines so if I had to choose, it would boil down to what it is going in.
Thanks Tony! I totally get the car playing a factor in the engine of choice!!!
I currently have a 440 in my scamp and a 360 in my 79 little red express, and I have had one 383 in a 77 dodge ramcharger, I just prefer the 360 Cheaper to build and to add hp and the used parts market is much more available I find, and I ran the dog out of the 360's that I wont do to my 440, the 360 can take a lot of beatings in my opinion and parts are so much cheaper, as far weight differences my book lists the weight as 670# including manifolds, small block at 550#.. again just my opinion if you have an A body with a big block and a 727 gear it high nothing lower than a 323 and with the small block gear it lower 373 or lower even, again just my opinion for the street, thanks for the video Tim.
Great stuff! Cost effective plays a huge roll in many of our projects!
@@318willrunI forgot to say there is nothing sweeter than a 318 with dual 4 barrels you know anybody 😂
@@bulldoggarageapparel7511 Ha!!!!
I often say the engine you already have is the best place to start, but I like torque so 383 is my choice
I love the "work with what ya got" approach!
The 383 will get better MPG in a street application as well, I have never seen a 360 pull down any MPG. I got better mileage (by far) with my '71 Sport Fury 383/727/2.76 gears than my '92 D150 (transplanted) Magnum 360/5.9L-46RH o/d 3.55 (2.45 effective gear in o/d) or 2000 Durango 5.9L 2wd 46RE 3.55 gears (2.45 effective in o/d). I guess it's the shorter stroke? The 5.9 Magnums both have efficient multi-point EFI and the Fury had a Theromquad (that I added, along with the intake) off a '72 400HP.
Thanks for sharing real life experiences!! Good stuff!
I had a 4x4 84 w150 4 speed with a 360 that would get 19mpg on the highway.
@@BigBadJones That's amazing. Long ago I had a Buick 455 LeSabre Custom with a TH400 and 2.56 gears that got 19 a time of two in perfect conditions on the interstate. Usually it was about 17, but those were the days of 55mph speed limits.
The 360 is a good engine no doubt. But, the 383 even with its larger size and weighing more gets my preference. I've had many of both. The 383 consistently gets better fuel mileage for me. Pretty much bulletproof bottom end, the heads are much better matched for the 383 than the 440. I think Vizard said "the 440 was a big engine with small block heads". 383 rod ratio is really good. Nice to be able to remove the intake without any coolant loss. Distributor in front is a big plus. I guess it depends what each engine will be going into and the application.
Great points! And thanks for bringing up the rod angle!
Small blocks in A bodys. Big blocks in B and E bodys. Cummins in trucks.
Ive had all the above but B engines are the easiest to work on. Front distributor, deep skirt block/flat oil pan, external oil pump and water pump mounting removal for cam changes. I have a motor home 440 spare but Im keeping the 318 in my W 150 because of its light weight.
So it depends on application which is best.
Plus it was easier to put points in the big block distributors being upfront.
Absolutely!
I would have to be more mechanically experienced to have any type of intelligently formed opinion. But I do like the rumble of a big block! Lol
Hey, liking the sound is reason enough!!! Thanks Mike!
Simple comparison and fitment for an A body. I have had a 383 stroked to 426 in a 71 duster was a complete pain. If I was to do it again, I would build a 360 stroked to 408 with trick flow heads and a dual plane intake. nice mild hydraulic roller cam and make 500 HP and have a motor that fits an A body and is even lighter . Lots of advantages.
Great points!
I have both I love both of them both rough good for a heavier car I like them if you have room in the big box nice anybody’s small boxes
I have both as well!! I too am not bias! Thanks!
If going for a small block, the 360, like you mentioned. Easier to work on. More room in an A body
I love the 360 choice for A-bodies! Thanks!
I like your line of thought. I’d rather have a 360 in A-body. 383 is awesome. Look at their success in the roadrunner. But for me, the la is better suited for my 65 barracuda.
Thanks! Yes, I agree the car plays a roll in engine selection!
360 Magnum all the way, stock roller cam setup, heads that can support 400hp stock, 4" bore is good, 904 trans option is good! Compression on a magnum is 9.0:1 which is friendly for pump gas! The magnum has better sealing as well with a one piece rubber pan gasket, better sealing on rocker covers, its so nice to have a motor that doesn't leak oil. A cam, intake and 4 bbl carb will see a magnum make in the high 300 gross hp range, down side is the heads are all cracked! 360 Magnums are 30 plus years old now.
360 all the way for me. Because I love small block Mopars! My all time favorite motors. Give a 360 some compression and they really wake up. That being said, the car that got me into Mopars was my parent's 383 Roadrunner..
I knew this was your answer for sure!!! And, for good reason. You get big cube results with small blocks!!! Go old yeller!
For a stockish or mild street build in an A-body I would definitely go for the 360, lighter and easier to work on. For a max all out build the 383 would probably be a better choice just because you can bore and stroke it to almost 90 cubes more and you will make more power.
All true! Thanks!
@@318willrun You're welcome.
YOUR KIDDING ...RIGHT! no stock 360 318 or 340 can hold a candle to the 383 big block!.. then add money no object and still the 383 is the better choice!...... just one thing no coolant in intake manifiold gives the 383 the advantage big blocks are king!
I absolutely knew this is where you would stand!!! Ha! Yes, the 383 has more potential than it's given credit!! Thanks !!
@@318willrunthat said I have love for the small block too...76 charger 360 74 charger 360 72 dart 318 roller and my 87 daily driver Ramcharger 318 roller...
@@moparnut6286 I knew you had a few small blocks around as well...
Both of these engines have great potential. Neither were very exciting in stock form. Very durable engines and easy to hop up. For me either one fits the bill!
Lol. So a STOCK 340 vs STOCK 383 in a 1968 barracuda. Which was faster?
Mever had experience with big blocks. Everybody wants 1500 for a non running that was pulled 15 years ago.
I can tell you that the 360 is awesome. Dont like the bore size? Bore it 40 over to a 340 size. The 360s extra stroke makes it an awesome engine. For a small block.
Cost play a part for sure! Availability also! Thanks!
Depends on car size. 360 small blocks are great in smaller cars like A bodies.. I prefer big blocks in B and C bodies and trucks.
There is large crowd in your corner! Thanks!
With the invention of 360 stroker kits, The 360 is the Smart Move Because of the Size Difference. Even If you Don't Stroke the 360 the Power you can get for the Money you Will Spend gives the 360 the Win in my Humble Opinion. In the End It's All about Power to Weight. Thanks for the Great Video!
Absolutely, the 360 is a warrior! The street and dragways have been proving this for decades! Thanks!
I will go 383 every time, so much more potential
The ceiling is high for the 383 !!! Thanks!
@@318willrun definitely I’m biased 383 is my favorite engine, but out of the box you have a stronger block, forged crank, better flowing heads, better lifter angle, internal balance, dry intake manifold, and finally the distributor is easier to service. Just off the top of my head
@voodoochild661 a magnum 360 with just cam and manifold and exhaust will give the 383 fits and blowby.
I like both engines, they both have their pros and cons. The 383 is a shorter stroke engine, which should make it quicker revving than a 360. But the 383 is also heavier, and heavier in the worst place - the front of the car. I tend to lean toward the 360 because of the weight savings, and also they provide a lot more space under the hood and headers are easier to live with. If I were to have a 383, it would have to be in a B or E body (or C body or truck) because there is more room under the hood. A big block in an A body is just such a tight fit, and the weight distribution is not good.
Many people are in your camp! Thanks!!
If I'm setting points, I'll take the 383. If I'm changing spark plugs, make it a 360! Oil pan gasket, 383. Intake manifold, 383.
Absolutely truth !! ha!
I had 2. 1966 convertible Belvedere two and a hardtop at the same time with 383s very fast and super dependable I couldn’t tear them up.
The 383 was a work horse for sure!!! Thanks!
383 Magnums are NO jokes stock ! Rode in a 71 challenger with one, its a Beast ! 😁👍
Because I have A body cars I am happy with a 360. I know people with big block A body cars. Greatvan a straight line but they don't handle bends very well. Suspension is not designed for the weight either.
Your not alone in how some have challenged the handling of a BB up front! Thanks!
A couple of years ago, a friend of mine wanted to revive his long dormant 1968 New Yorker. 440 was seized. I had a well worn 383 from a Polara. Got him on the road for a year. It became his daily driver. Then he got the itch to swap in an LA 360 from a 79 Newport mainly for the availability of consumable parts. He says the power change is almost unnoticeable. But a gear swap is next for the grocery getter as his town driving rarely get the long legged car into 3rd gear. He finds comfort in being able to walk into the parts store and walking out with parts same day, as opposed to waiting on ordered big block parts.
I like real life experiences! They talk loud !
It depends on what car it is going in. If its going in a challenger I would pick the 383. If its going in a Duster I will pick a 360. Great video as always.
Absolutely that makes sense!! Thanks!
Man oh man, you opened a barrel of pickles with this one! 383 all the way! I’ve got to go on the weight comparison video I had a while back. Let’s buy some aluminum heads and have a low deck party! In my last 3 years of pulling transmissions and swapping converters, I prefer the big block swap now. I can reach the bellhousing bolts, and not worry about those pesky 5-7 plug wires rubbing on that header. What’s a 904? 😂
Awesome my friend! I understand where your coming from! As for the 5-7 plug wires, you just needed to get away from the 199.99 headers 😂 Now for your question, I provide this smrtrans.tripod.com/smrtransmissionsintro/id9.html
@@318willrun that’s a sweet kit!
@@JustMoparJoe I have a built 904 with RMVB I'd love to throw behind your 512 and use a 8" converter. We'd be getting close to that 5.9's on Motor!!!
My brother and i have been having this conversation lately. He has a 69 coronet with the 383 he's building and I'm looking to get a early 70s coronet and I'm thinking about a 360. I don't know as much as him, I'm looking to build a cool fun daily driver that gets good gas and plan on sticking oem mostly. Maybe swap heads ect. Keep it simple and reliable. For my purpose we both agree the 360 is my better option. It's got plenty of power for a daily.
If you're wanting a small block go with the 340 and if you're basically going to go with a big block skip the 383 and go to 440
Totally in agreement, I've had both a 383 and 440. Would take a 340 over a 383 anyday!
The 383 high performance cylinder heads are a good size for 383 power. In 1971 police car trials, the early 1971 high compression AMC 401 engine completely outperformed the 1971 low compression 383 engine. The 401 is more modern and had a compression ratio advantage at the beginning of the 1971 model year, though late 1971 401's have low compression ratio. The 383 engine is a "heavy" engine for a 383 size engine. The 1971 360 had flat top pistons but they were very far down from the cylinder heads, make them rather inefficient. The 1972 360 got dished pistons, that seem to work a bit better. The 360 has a much better, lighter weight, for a 360 size engine, than the 383 and the 360 is a more modern design.
Great points! Thanks!
The newest 383 is now 54 years old. The newest Magnum 360s are still running on the roads and filling the junkyards for cheap. B engine 727vtransmissions have been harder to find for decades. All forms of Torqueflites and 4 speed automatic versions fit the 360(mileage and driveability advantage right there). The Chevy and Ford Cascar series rivals call the 360s "baby Hemis", because of their unfair torque advantage coming out of the turns. K frame changes and motor mount issues for smaller Mopars add expense and complication to using the 383. The rest of the reasons have been well hashed out by others. I grew up with high compression 383s and loved em'. I was also one of those who looked at the new 360s as weaker, yet plenty thirsty options, until Ed Hambuger and his 340/360 shop changed all our minds on the 360.
Great Points !!
I’ll take the 360, in part I think because everyone dumps on it so why not. And if does give you more room in the engine bay, and sometimes the lack of a head ache is enough.
That's reason enough! And frustration cannot be measured on a chart!
Great video and thanks for posting this question for all of us to chime in on, I’m not really biased or highly prefer one more than the other I like ‘em all from the slant 6 up to the 440 including the Gen 3 hemis, i do agree with you that a small block in an A body is the way to go for the very reasons you mentioned 👍🏻👍🏻
You and I see a lot alike! Thanks!
I prefer a 383 and more likely the 400 really . But if you want one and have the other in car it is very costly now to do engine swap compared to few years back. best if you had a small block being able to utilize the existing drivetrain and just beef those up. same for keeping a big block. it the weight seems like much well not really , you can just by bolt on replacement big block heads.
True, it's very easy to keep the car as it's set up and use the existing pieces. Thanks!
The 383 is a legend. In a heavy vehicle, truck, B, C body. A 383.
Some say 383 has better crank less bottom end issues. Generally speaking, there's no replacement for displacement. The number you quoted did not include at what rpms. On a graph of HP and TQ, I beleive the area under the curve is more important than peak numbers.
Great point on the RPM the numbers are made! Just what I was looking for, the thought process behind the "why's" from you all. I tried to do my best not to lead in any direction towards either engine!
440 or go home!!! I have a 1970 Cuda with a stroked 440. This VS 502 is one heck of a power house and it was my ticket for a Division 1 title. 360 are boat anchors, put the money into a 440 and stop thinking about the weight difference. The power increase of a 440 will make up for the weight difference.
There are some that don't care for the 360 whatsoever! Thanks!
I rescued my 383 like a stray dog. Its in my challenger for resale value. It used to have a 340. The 340 was a stronger higher reving engine but it did have a 6 pac and 391 gears. Never thought of the 383 as a taxi motor. Thats the 318 s job. The low deck big block fits nice and with aluminum top end it weighs the same as a small block.
Nice! yeah, you'd be surprised how many Big Block folks are prejudice against the 383. Not me, I like 'em!
Love my 383
Owned both engines. The 360 had more HP with the 340 heads and equal torque , weight was much less too 👍
I have built a 383 stroker (489) with 440 Source heads. Ran very well. However to me it depends which body you are using? A body - SB. B or E body 383.
It all depends on the purpose. If I wanted a 1/4-mile machine, I would go with the big block...more notably the 400 or the 440 because they increased the strength of the mains in the late 70's. As for a daily driver, The LA is the better option since it is so easy to get an automatic overdrive transmission option for it. Yes, there are standards out there, but these days my knees can no longer handle the clutch due to years of employment abuse. Fun fact, if you like fast RPM gains, the "B" block has a shorter stroke than the 360, nearly as short as the 318. Great video, thanks for sharing.
I'v had both and prefer the small block it is easier for me to get around and work with take an intake and heads off in the car much easier I don't care for the distributor location on small block butt what are you going to do preferred LA to Magnum but that has mostly do with engine controls
Small blocks have been motivating cars for decades, and with happy owners !!!
"la" had that valve lifter bore angle inherited from the polysphere issue causing issues above 5500, so if you are going to run it hard with the stock block the lifter angle in the 383 is the better choice. ps I had an uncle with a 383 2 brl would get 25 imperial mpg.
Lifter angle..... glad you brought that up !!!!
I'm in my early 30s , for me its 360. Seems like i can find info and parts for it easier. I wasn't around for the muscle car days. My 1st gen project i bought also came with a 360 , so I'm sticking with what i got to keep budget in check
I understand that. You are in a great spot starting with a 360! They are a great engine.
Aftermarket support for both is whooooo, expensive. Why the Mopar tax? I've had them since the late '70s. Every other make is MUCH cheaper to build for more HP/TQ, dollar to dollar. After all this time, we shouldn't be paying sometimes double for parts.
Yes, it weighs heavy on the wallet!
It all depends on personal preference, what you want to build, & what you want to run
100% agree!
Traded in my 67 GTX conv w/440 super commando on my 72 Demon. The insurance companies came after the muscle cars back then. $100 a year went to $100/mo. I miss the GTX. Been since 72 since I owned a BB. But I’ve liked the small blocks. Have a 360 in my Demon. Makes a good driver. Light enough to rip pretty good.
All true!
ive seen small blocks at the strip on on the streets racing and out do a big block especially due to weight. but i also like big blocks , slant6s ect. Also a big block in an A-body is a great choice as well weight ratio
I've seen it too!
Street strip a 383 better head options from the factory and aftermarket. Most big block mopar heads stock are 198cc- 205cc vs 165-169cc on a 360 head. You have the 240 and 270cc big block TF heads you have a the 190cc trick flow for the small block. A daily driver a 360 with a 215- 218@50 cam nice daily 2.92-3.23 9.5cr with 175 cc eddy head
I bought mine first mopar 5 years ago, it is a 69 coronet 2 door hardtop wilth a 360 and 904.. the car whas not running when i bought. Before i even looked at the engine i was like " B body needs big block"
But i was curious at the 360, it was mildly build with headers, Edelbrock intake, 340 J heads roller rockers etc .. and 904. Has a shifter kit .
I started the car up, and drove it around.... Man i was impressed.. it was high reving and fast. Even smoked some standard big block cars
So i im going to keep the 360, want to rebuild it with aluminum head and thinking of a stroker kit.
It is lighter and hase useble HP an torq. What is 600+ hp if you don't can get it on the ground
Since I 2 duster 70 charger there all 360 power for me it room under hood 318 mag in a dakota only small block Since my first build 1989
Nice thing about having all the same engine is you just need to stock filters and gaskets and such for one engine! Thanks!
Look at the blocks alone, which on is beefier, cast iron to cast iron. I had both, one in my charger 383 and one in my pickup 360, both 4BL. The 383 on the go had more pull. 68 charger and 1985 ram prospector
1/2 ton 4x4
After messing with 360 timing in my pickup truck - I would much prefer a big block. 😁
I have to say I do like both engines, but if I had to choose, I would be hard pressed not to go with the 383 mainly because of how easy it is to work on. It's hard to beat the dizzy up front, the dry intake, the external oil pump, and the 4 bolt water pump, but you're exactly right. What the engine is going in plays a big factor for me it just has to make sense.
When you say "i'd take the 383"... not many would blame ya!
Well…… this comment is going to anger a lot of people, but it’s true. My Dodge just happens to be a big block car in vin. So about two years ago, I decided to go shopping for a big block for my Dodge, since mine came with a 383. I found one on craigslist that was marked down from $8500 down to $3200, I drove to the mountains here in Colorado and got it picked up. it came with all of the fancy names like Keith Black Pistons! Lunati voodoo cam! Solid roller crane cam rockers! My expectations were that I finally found an engine that’s gonna put me in the 12s so I pulled out my tired 400 big block and installed this supposedly hot little 383 in my Dodge. To my dismay, I cannot get it to even get into the 13s here in Colorado. Now you’re probably thinking that I’m doing something wrong and you’re probably right, but I have FBO ignition, 456 gears, brand new 750 carburetor. I cannot help to think I made some mistake. The guy that built the engine told me that I just got better heads then I would be able to dip into the 12s here in Colorado. This is obviously my next, but quite a big investment since I already have closed chamber heads on my Dodge with 10 1/2 to one compression. But I am going to try it anyway. Don’t get me wrong, I still love my car and have fun with it and it drives like a new car and runs great. I just want to go faster! Did I make a mistake. Should I have small block? Or 440?
Thanks for the real life testimony! I think you should be faster, but sometimes we don't get what we hope for. Wishing you all the best!
I am of the mind it depends on the application, what is it going in and what is its intended use!
Absolutely!
If I'm building a cruiser, ill take the 360, and put a 518 behind it. The Magnum 360/518 can still be had for less than $1000 complete. Add a 3.91 rear gear, and cruise at 2300 rpm or so at 70 mph. If I'm looking at a street brawler, I'd go 383, and build it as light as possible. After seeing @JustMoparJoe video on weight, it took the weight advantage argument for the small block and threw it out the window.
Great points!
@318willrun I'd like to add, that at a test and tune at a drag strip, it's a lot easier to tune with a distributor on the front of the engine, and change intakes at the track with a big block not having to dump the water out of it.
@@IndirectConnection1 Yep!
Had a 66 383 originally a 2 barrel version, tore it down went with .30 over with heavy TRW 383 magnum replacement pistons, worked out to be 9.5:1 compression with a pair of 906 heads cut 0.28 due to pistons so far in the hole. Mild porting job on heads and a torker2 intake stock valves. 484 mopar performance purple shaft cam. Crane roller tip rockers and a mopar performance electronic ignition kit and distributor, 750cfm holley mechanical secondary carb. Hooker 17/8” headers, 3,000 tci converter and 727 automatic with turbo action manual valve body, dana 60 rear with 4:56 gears and Hoosier p295 quick times tires in a 83 ram D150 short bed full weight 3,700 pounds without driver best time was a 12:50 at 109 mph with a 1:83 sixty foot way back in 1992 so I guess you know which i’d pick nothing against the 360 great engine 👍
Sounds like you had a fun truck!
What a great comparison. With that said, this one is really application driven. The 360 is a decent small block ( although the 340 is better IMO) but the potential for more power in a racing application is where the 383 shines. I would prefer the larger bore size of the 380, especially with modern Fuel Injection and boost.
Bore + boost .... interesting take! Thanks!
383* I think you brought up great points about which vehicle you are putting the engine in as well. I love the small block Mopar platforms, of them all the 360 is my least favorite due to it's external balancing..... So for that reason alone (I build most manual cars) I'd stick with the 383, and the option for better flowing heads.
You make some great videos, Tim. You ask great questions too!
I love a B or RB, but the LA is sure lighter...
Thanks, I really appreciate your kindness!
I'm partial to the 440 engine , only because I have 2 sitting in the garage.
440's are like hamburgers and fries, always the safe choice!!!!
I put parts together for my 68 dart for nearly 20 years. Stroked 400 ie 470ci with 727 was always the plan. By the time I had all the parts together the market on SB stuff had exploded. Stroker kits relatively inexpensive aftermarket heads with great numbers. I put the 470 together and in and don't regret it because it's terrific but if I was doing it now or again it would be small block simply because of the A body platform I'm using.
Aspirin before watching🎉
360 in an A-body. 383 in anything else.
Great choice, can't argue that!
The only stock 383 to 360 comparison I have would be my '71 Charger 4-bbl to my old 1976 Cordoba 360 4-bbl,, so last year 383 to smogged out 360 the 383 wins.
Closest mild modified versions would be when I rebuilt the 383 with the high compression flat top pistons (still only in the 9ish to 1 ratio) with the crower 271 compu-cam, stock rockers, 906 heads with stock size valve, and mild port cleanup sand weiand intake. vs 360 with 9ish to 1 flat top pistons, stock heads/valves with mild port cleanup, small crower baja beast cam (I think 210? @ 0.050" duration) I think it had a holley street dominator intake and 600 holey carb. That 360 was built for torque and ran really good with decent gas mileage. I think that might be close to or better than the stock 383, but not the modified one. 360 I have now is KB-232 quench dome pistons, stock iron heads but with the larger valves and hardened exhaust seats. Good amount of porting, and milling (for quench), but righ around 9.5:1 compression. The Hughes Engines 216/220 duration cam with 1.6:1 aluminum rocker arms, Edelbrock Performer with EGR intake, port matched, and 670 truck avenger carb (about to convert to sniper efi.) This 360 would might have as much peak horse power (or more) as the modified 383, but with a larger torque curve. It's a nice combo. Wish I had money to engine dyno it as it seems stronger than I thought it would have been? One thing I noticed is I never had overheating issues with the small blocks, where it is more of a problem with the big block cars I have, but again, not a good comparison because the 360s were in trucks and the big blocks were in B-body cars? FWIW, the 360 was in the RamCharger I rolled, and is now going into the '69 Coronet 500 replacing the 318.
69 340 for me. I have seen 340's destroked to 302 that turned 9 seconds in the quarter mile.
My uncle had a 78 power wagon with a 360 and it was a slug and got terrible gas mileage. I’ve seen some great running 360s at the track. You can make any engine perform and the a body argument is a good one. I love 383s raced them for years. I prefer them to 440s. 383 revs quicker and higher and lives longer doing it. What little you lose on the bottom end it more than makes up for in the mid range and higher rpm though the traps.
I tried the 383 and it wasn't what I wanted so I went with good old 440. Attempting to do a 4 barrel swap on my first 360 so I guess will see how that goes. I really like the old reliable 318.
Sounds like you have been having fun!
I’ll go for the 383 all dat long! I’ve seen a 383 in a 68 Charger with 9-1 compression and the mildest solid cam we could find run 11’s. Think of it this way, it’s a destroyed 426. Or it’s a bored out 340. The bore size of 4.25 is the same for the 426 wedge, 426 Hemi and 383. The difference is the stroke. The 426 has a 3.75” stroke while the the 383 had a 3.38” stroke. The only other difference is the deck height. The 340 has a bore of 4.04”, smaller that the 383 and the 340 has a stroke of 3.31” stroke. The same as a 318 Poly or LA, the 383 has a slightly longer stroke of 3.38. That a difference of only .07”.
Also on the show Engine Masters they took a Mopar 383 and put it up against a Chevy 383 Stroker. They kept all the specs the same for both engines. Same can, intake, carb etc. then they ran both motors and their out put was identical. The Chevy had a bore of 4.03” and a stroke of 3.75, so the expectation is that it would make more low end torque. It didn’t. Also the Chevy had roller rockers and a whole bunch of aftermarket parts to hold it together. In contrast the Mopar doesn’t need all those expensive parts to sun strong and stay together. The 360 is basically the same story, but aftermarket heads are almost a must. the pushrod punch in the head restricts flow, but Mopar was very smart and decreased the valve inclination angle and biased the port to do a better job of filling the cylinder. Compared to the stock Chevy head it was more of a high swirl design. That was improved on later in e magnum heads, which will work on an LA engine.
let me start by saying I'm a fairly young guy, I'm only 25 but I've had a love for classic Mopars since I can remember. That being said I'm taking a 360 over the 383 for a few reasons. Number 1 being that I've built 4 small block Mopars in the past, 2 360's, a 318 and a 340. I've never built a big block, and while I'd love to I just have small block parts laying around that I could use. I don't have extra big block water pumps, valve covers, intakes, etc. like I do small block parts, so a small block is just easier to build for me since I have parts laying around that I can use, thus making it overall cheaper to build a stout street engine. But if I'm going money no object, maximum effort build it's gonna be a big block. They can hold more power than any factory cast small block besides the X and R series small blocks, and for an all out build, it's gonna be cheaper to start with a big block. Both have their pros and cons, but for a street engine I'd go small block all day, and for an all out race engine I'd go big block no questions asked.
Big blocks with sticks for the track, small block with autos for the strip! Sticks great for high speed breaking assistance and autos eliminate missing gears in short runs!
Ima 360 for a few reasons ...way more parts and support w aftermarket. And weight between the two and a more modern engine line. P.s i have a truck so 360 for me good video
I’ve thought about putting a 383 in my 75 RR because to me the 383 is the engine that made the Road Runner. If I had weight or packaging issues, like with an A body., I’d go 360.
I agree.... 383 and RR go together!
I love my 65 Dart 273.Personal preference
nothing wrong with that!
I've a original 340 6 pack motor with a cast iron hemi 4 speed in my shop
I wanted to try a small block for my 86 D150,I went with a mild built 360 with a 904 to see how it goes.
Good choice, the 360 is a great all-around motor.
I like them both! The issue with 360 swaps is the external balance cast crank, and you can't swap 318/340 oil pans onto a 360. On the other hand the small block will bolt up to the 904, 727, 518/46RH. I also like the small block spark plug access and overall smaller size. The 383 is internal balance, and oil pans swap with other big blocks.
Hard to compare stock performance as it would vary by year and if 2 or 4 bbl carb (or Magnum EFI), and then if the 360 is LA vs. Magnum?
They can both be modified to meet the users needs. The Small block lifter angle has never been a problem for me, but my 360's stay under 6,000 RPM.
Note that if you are going to put a 6-71 blower on a stroked 360, use the forged crank!
The 383 larger bore can use heads with larger valves, and an easy 496" engine stroked. Make the heads, intake and water pump aluminum and not much of a weight penalty.
No big blocks exist where I live anymore, of any kind.
that makes the choice a lot easier! Thanks!
I prefer the 383 I’m currently building a 383 stroked to a 431. And I am putting it in AA body it’s gonna be tight but I’m using 19 7071, HP High Flow exhaust manifold . Thank you for the info I enjoyed the video.
Fun project you have going on there!
The lighter small block LA 360 everyday, and twice on Sunday, over the older / fatso big block RB 383 as the 360 has a better aftermarket support plus drop-in interchangeability with Mopars that came with a 273 or 318 or a blown-up 340.
I've never seen any reason to mess with a 383 unless its an original to the car engine. Better to run a 440. Between the 383 and 360 I'll take the small block.
I'll take torque of the big block 😬😬
And you make that torque too !!!! Thanks!
I’d eventually like to build a big block for my coronet. But for now swapping in an early 360 just because it was cheap and easy. Bought a running 360 and transmission 727 out of a motorhome for $500..and it’ll bolt right in place of the 318/904 that I blew up years ago.
Yep, easy swap! Thanks!
Having done servicing and repairs on both, the 383 (Jensen lnterceptors)felt to be a monster, whereas the 360 (Chrysler by Chrysler)a little more civilised, both motors never failed to
impress me all those years ago, in the late seventies in Melbourne, Australia...
With stock stroke home build, it's pretty even. The heads, homeported, are pretty equal. The 360 has about a 60 lb weight advantage with similar equipment. Both with a pump gas CR will be at the 400 hp level. With stock displacement, I think I would pick the 360. If stroked, you will not get easily over 408 with the 360. With more expensive cranks you can go to 426. A 383 can easily take 4.25" stroke for 496 cu in. That is a difference. Easy to get to 500 hp level with basic parts, and at low rpm. Not so with a 408, you will be around 50 hp behind and at higher rpm, less tq.
Small blocks are dirt cheap and plentiful , I went to the magnum block for a cheap roller block . Where I live big blocks are going for a arm and leg and even the big block 727s ....
Yep, the 383 can grow pretty big !!!
I had the choice between the LA 360 and a 440 motorhome engine for my 74 D100. I chose the 360.. you guessed it, weight difference. The other reason, I had a 318 already, makes the swap easy.
Yep, makes a difference if you are already set up for it!
I had a 73 roadrunner 360 4barrel. People that rode in it always said it felt like a big block because the power and torque they could feel. E58 engine
Yes, they can have BB feel !!
Truth is I like old stuff 318 poly is my choice its unique and affordable here in nz big block parts are expensive hemi gen 1 parts same thing way to expensive so the poly makes for something a bit different and is reasonable
Nothing wrong with a Poly !
Well me got both and me like them both. The 383 can be a wicked engine. The 360 can be a funner than fun engine.
I've got an e body with a magnum 360/904. Mild cam. I love the handling and extra room around the lighter small block. I also have a 78 D200 with a 400. It's a great motor for that truck! Probably a little more torque than a stock 360 would have.
Very nice!
I’ve never had a 360 but if a guy had decent w2 heads and some updates it’d be a screamer.
Small blocks for life.
Hi love the channel and the videos. I have a 1969 Plymouth b body. The oil pan is touching the motor mount on the passenger side only. It has a grove in the pan lip. Is this a symptom of bad motor mounts? Thanks.
Could be. Is it the correct pan for the car?
@318willrun yes it is the original engine and pan. I checked on other cars with both having the same thing. It's only at the front passenger side. Also it is the original motor mount. I appreciate your feedback as I have learned a ton on the channel.
@@cougariog8817 I would say new motor mounts are cheap and not to bad to replace. Good idea anyways, and it might fix your problem. Thanks!
@318willrun awesome keep up the good work!!! We really appreciate. It
383 .030 block + 4.25 stroke = 550 hp with stock Pro Comp heads. My buddy has one in a '70.Dart with a mild .520 hydraulic roller & it's a beast! Same car with a fairly aggressive 360 was also a beast. Toss up between them. I'm more of a small block guy though. I've accumulated enough stuff where I can make pretty good power with a 360 based stroker.
Both beast.... i like it!
I've had a number of both and would 'probably' take a 383 but I will say they are not as tractable as a 360 due to the short stroke, rotating mass and for an over-square engine has a pretty short stroke for a big block. A 383 NEEDS to be treated like a BIG small block engine. No huge overlap or gigantic cams. Just be conservative and it'll perform. With current or even past pistons it's tough to get the compression distance where it needs to be or you'd want it. There aren't nearly even a fraction of the parts to make a 383 build perform anywhere like a 360. It's really just a matter of the image of a 383 or the ease, practicality and performance of a 360. The LA version of the 360 was never 'really' a performance engine. It had a 340 cam, double roller timing set and TQ and dual exhaust (factory). I really ever only had ONE 383 that was a 'screamer'. It was a worn out (100k+) '71 Road Runner with an auto and 3.23 gears. It was bone stock and would run rings around some 440's I owned. Must have been one of the cars that came together with just the 'right' tolerances. It was low compression and had the factory Holley too. It was impressive but I had a stock E58 that I 'super tuned' to at least that level. So my answer is a 360 is easier to make perform all around and would be easier to make out perform a 383.
Funny story. I have a '70 Dodge W200 PowerWagon with a stock 383 HP (original). It has 383 Magnum fender badges (factory). I was at a truck stop/diner a couple years ago and drove my truck and some guy (saw the badges) and says 'That has a stroked Chevy engine?' I just turned around and walked away.
Some think my Duster is a Nova.... so I understand! Good stuff, Thanks!
@@318willrun Long time ago 1996 or so, I had a '71 Satellite Sebring Plus (318 car) I transplanted a 440 6bbl 4 speed and 8 3/3 into. My then daily. Was grey primer and no emblems anywhere. I went to a sheetmetal shop to get some metal for bodywork and I heard a guy inside say 'I think it's a Torino' OMG!
I have had many people call my Cuda a Camaro. I was once at a car event in my Cuda and a guy parked next to me with a nice 69 Camaro. He got out walked up to me and said "nice Camaro". He laughed and said he was getting me back for people that called his car a Cuda. So I guess it works both ways.
@@vincemajestyk9497yes a lot of people don't know about those six pack, Cobra Jet , Hemi, Torino, but my next door neighbors friend had one !
I’d like to see another 318 v 360 magnum poll. I’ve seen many high torque builds lately with these engines. Most I’ve seen say that a striker 318 is more durable with the same outcome due to more cylinder wall. I think for a cheap street/strip car you can build an amazingly fast stroked 318 magnum.
Thanks!!
Depends on what it is going in. A body 360, c and b body 383, e body either
You bet !! Thanks!