Hey Joe, I don't wanna say it, but it looked like you installed the flywheel side towards the front of the engine in the video. I sure hope I'm wrong! Great product from the look of it by the way. Thanks for this!
I didn’t catch that initially but went back and checked. He sure did install it backwards. As a fellow gearhead I’m not sure I’d take it apart again since it seemed to seal, but maybe with prolonged use it’s likely to leak? I mean, directionality matters, right? Joe are you taking it back apart and putting a new one? I bet this is getting old. I feel for ya!
@ I called and discussed with the owner, Jeff. It being a double lipped seal, had worked to help somewhat correct my mistake. If it’s not leaking after the dyno thrashing, then the concern is gone.
@ That’s good to know. I suppose the Mancini standard replacement kit has a single silicone side seal and the FastFishAutoParts retainer relies on RTV (silicone) being injected down the side rails. If the installer does a good job it should be about the same thing? “Proof of the pudding, is in the eating”.
Both my big block and small block had been line honed and both seals leaked. I ended up fixing the big block with a rope seal. I fixed the small block by swapping a hellcat in it. A little extreme but I'm much happier.
Hey Joe, thought I'd share. I just called and talked to the fellow at Fast Fish and have one of his rear main seals coming. I've faught real main seals in the past on big block Mopars, hadn't heard of this one piece seal until your video. Oh, it's going in the 383 in my '66 Charger. Thanks so much, really appreciate it, and excited to put it in.
Nice shout out to Nick. In the old days we called those big block Mopars 440 six-pass. After six or seven runs she would love to piss oil out the rear of the block.
Joe, I too have had some leakers and came up with a way to check before running the engine. With crank installed, and block with oil pan rails facing up and plenty of assembly lube on #5 main, to help create a seal, I cut 2 strips of closed cell black foam and pushed them in between the main cap and block to create a seal, poured 0 weight oil in cavity between main cap and seal retainer, left it overnight and viola! No leaks. Been driving around and it’s dry as a bone! Not sure if one way is better than the other but at least it’s another option to consider. Thanks for the great videos! Forgot to mention, I pulled out the strips with long needle nose pliers before installing the oil pan!
I do something similar with mine but I put the oil pan on and then pour about 4 quarts of oil into the engine and then hang the engine from the engine hoist by the front so the back is facing the ground. If that leaks anywhere you will see it and try again
Looks Good Joe. I've had a few rear main leaks myself. I went to the Mancini racing holder and their seal. So far that has worked for me. If I had the block line honed I cut the same amount off the holder to match he block. It took quite a few trys before I fixed a couple of them.
Hey Joe, Tim here, YEA, THATS THE CO./SEAL I WAS TALKIN BOUT!!....if done right, u shud be good......we used their retainer, followed their recommended way (with crank in motor)......and again, homie went on power tour, and was VERY happy!!!!......glad ya found what I was talking bout......Fast Fish.......knew it was fish related.....hahahaha.....GOOD ON YA BROTHER!!.....peace to you!!
@JustMoparJoe kick ass product eh??.......I used same method, with the long reach needle nose plyers......urs went in MUCH easier than mine, but result was similar, you got NO seepage, and I got a tiny bit.......but I had the entire car put together, we were just tryin to help......flex plate was there, EVERYTHING was there.....all in this Hemi GTX.....we told him if this didn't get it, motor wud have to come out.........Power tour went GREAT!!!...nice to take care of each other here!!!.....PEACE brother!!
I USE THE VITON SEALS . ELIMINATE THE SIDE SEALS THATS CAUSES SEAL HOLDER TO BE OFF ALIGNMENT. USE THE RIGHT STUFF IN PLACE OF THE SIDE SEALS. YOU CAN ALSO V -GROOVE THE NO.5 MAIN LOWER BEARING FACING TOWARD THE FRONT.. THIS FORCES THE OIL TOWARD THE FRONT ...
We use to use a thin plastic shoe horn , from let's say a bubble wrap package, to aid in installation , keeps the back of seal from getting shaved off from sharp edge of block , seal will just slide right in
Hey Joe I know how you feel to have a leak after going through all the R&R , I was thinking I don’t know, pushing that seal down and around the crank, could this possibly work, and when it started feeding in I thought this just might be successful and it was so cool to see it work, wow those Mopars are so different from a Chevy on how the pan bolts up, seems like a lot of parts need to go together just right , but being a Chevy guy I have always thought the Mopars had a really good sound, kind of like you can hear the drive train in the headers, hope that made sense, good video and congratulations on getting the oil leak stopped 😀😀
I was always taught to offset the split seals when they go into the block/cap so the seal mating surface is hidden inside the cap/block instead of where those two meet. I noticed when you pulled it apart the leaky seal wasn’t offset it was flush with the block. I’ve never had an issue so maybe that’s the trick? Either way it looks like the Fast Fish seal did a great job. I’ll definitely consider one for my next build. Cheers and thanks for the information, love your vids. Andy L. Tippin Classics
@@Tippin20s thanks brother! This was the first leaker like this for me. I was wondering if it was the crankshaft mating surface, or the retainer not having enough crush. She’s ready for the dyno
So a few of the non OEM options are: 1) Mancini MOP-P4529732, billet main seal retainer, single silicone side seal, standard Chrysler black crank seal, 2) Mancini MRE220, billet, double side seal retainer which is cut deeper for the larger FelPro 2947 Viton crank seal. 3) Chrysler standard or Mancini MOP-P4529732 retainer and FastFishAutoParts one piece (you can cut it) double lip crank seal.
What young people don't realize is rope packing seals are supposed to be oily, as long as they dont leak too much.if they aren't, they will burn up. I've used the new style seal in industry, usually they came precut. Nice seal. The main thing some people miss is not reliving crankcase pressure good enough. ❤
Nice job. I'm struggling to get my ford 390 I built to stop leaking. But that's a different deal. I think my rear main might be the only spot it don't leak! Lol
I used a Mancini kit on my last big block and after I assembled it I can see daylight along one side so I knew that wasn't going to fly. I took it back out and put silicone on the sides a little thicker then the first time and made sure I let it dry for 2 days, I usually have bad luck with rear main seals. But this one did not leak on the dyno after 10 pulls .
Thanks for sharing, I will try this if my last attempt fails, just installed the Mancini cap and seal yesterday and haven’t started it yet, but I am hoping it will work and not have to try the fast fish seal, but good info, thanks.
🌟 If the Mancini MRE220 main seal retainer is cut deeper to accommodate the size of the larger FelPro 2947 Viton seal (the standard Chrysler black seal leaks as per: “Comparing Mancini Racing's Billet Rear Main Seal Kits to Factory Replacement Seals” by “Mopar Connections” video). Why was it necessary to cut the retainer deeper if the larger Viton seal still fits (and doesn’t leak) between the crank and the block? Is there is an argument for using 1/2 a standard seal and 1/2 a Viton seal when using the Mancini MRE220?
Handy dandy idea with the two bolts and cheap wrench to pull the rear seal. I'm always thinking, how can I do this smarter, quicker, cleaner with less swearing?😊
Congrats Joe. Certainly a common issue with the old big blocks for sure. Yes, Jeff's FF seal is well thought of amongst the engine builders on the forums I hang out on (and they'd know) and now that I've seen you do one in an assembled, sort of "in car" engine, I may be brave enough to go after the leaky one in my own 440 one day. By the way, have you tried one of those one-piece windage tray/pan gasket jobbers the the big suppliers sell? Always been curious about those. - Ed on the Ridge
Joe I'm surprised you never use the Summit 1 piece pan gaskets/windage trays. Ive been using them for many year's now. They offer 1 for strokers too. I like eliminating having to run dual gaskets. They've worked great for me. Hope she's A OK now!
@@TheDynotuner thanks brother. I have one on my barracuda 512. It’s weeping oil since I installed it. Not the rear seal there. I’ve checked and checked and checked. 😅
@@JustMoparJoe Cometic was saying last year @ PRI they were working on 1. I'm gonna bust his chops first thing on Friday morning. But I have those Summit's in a 413, 440, & 383 with great success 🤞🏽
I got a 360, 3000 miles since rebuild in a w-350 . just starting to leak, but not bad couple of drops on the floor after shutting down from a long drive. Not a problem yet . Have to see if they make one for a 360LA.
Rear seals suck man. Back in the 70s I replaced a leaky waxed rope seal with a new waxed rope seal while the engine was in the car. Getting the old one out of the block was a huge pain in the ass. Back then a rubber 2 piece was crap.
Hope it works for you, it didn't for me once, but came to the conclusion it was a crankshaft problem, the crank had been turned and it had too much runout on the ends, in other words it was moving up and down .005 on each end compared to the plane the main journals were on, the shop that turned the crank didn't get it right, new crank fixed it.👍
Thanks for that video, Joe. Interesting choice of rear seal too. I bought the SCE Gaskets 26605 that you used on one of your older videos. Any particular reason you chose the one you used this time over that one?
@ thanks for your reply man, I been watching ur videos for about a year now and hurd you mention Arkansas in a couple of your videos, and aw ohkay I gotcha that’s pretty cool yeah ur up there around Little Rock lonoke is about 2 hours from here, I’m in small town crossett lol
I know the small block doesn’t have the extent of rear main seal issues, but it does happen. Wonder if Jeff has a seal for 318’s? Mine is apart and getting rebuilt, why not throw that seal in so you to have to cut it!
Re the FastFishAutoParts seal. We know that FelPro 2947, is larger than the standard Chrysler black seal. Has anyone measured the FastFishAutoParts seal to see which of the two previous seals (size) it matches? That would help decide on the appropriate seal retainer to best use.
@ Hi Joe yes I was looking at that on their website … but they don’t use any side seals. My car sits for long periods of inactivity and relying on solely RTV seems suspect. So I thought about using one of the Mancini retainers (silicon side seals, not rope or solely RTV) but that begs the question, what size is the Fast Fish seal? As you know, the standard Chrysler seal and the viton seal are different sizes.
@ yes sir. I’ve heard you mention the seal thickness differences. I would love to measure each and show their results in a video. I’m not sure of the depth of caps, but I just talked to Jeff and he said the Fastfish caps are USA made and sold, and are the correct fit for the one live seal. Mine worked well With the factory cap, so I would assume the fast fish cap is the same depth.
@ I hear you … which retainer and side seal did you use in the video? YesI I plan on using the Fast Fish crank seal, I’am just trying to work out how best to use it. At the moment I only have a standard Chrysler rope seal retainer which I think I need to improve upon. Ps: Do you rate the Cometic AFM Oil Pan Gaskets C5617-030 and C5617-060 (.030” & .060”)?
@ I used the stock retainer again. It was from a late 70’s truck block. I’m sorry I don’t have the part number. I believe Jeff sells both pan gaskets as well. I would like the thicker version for the pan side and thinner for the windage tray to the pan. I appreciate your insights!
@@kurgan322 no sir, thanks for the heads up! I was able to pin a comment of someone who mentioned it first. Will discuss in the dyno preparation video🫡
Hey Joe, I don't wanna say it, but it looked like you installed the flywheel side towards the front of the engine in the video. I sure hope I'm wrong! Great product from the look of it by the way. Thanks for this!
Thanks brother! This isn’t the first time that filming my work has saved the day! I’ll pin this one!
@ we've worked on enough gear to know how easy it is to do. Have a good one man 🤘🏼
I didn’t catch that initially but went back and checked. He sure did install it backwards. As a fellow gearhead I’m not sure I’d take it apart again since it seemed to seal, but maybe with prolonged use it’s likely to leak? I mean, directionality matters, right?
Joe are you taking it back apart and putting a new one? I bet this is getting old. I feel for ya!
@ I called and discussed with the owner, Jeff. It being a double lipped seal, had worked to help somewhat correct my mistake. If it’s not leaking after the dyno thrashing, then the concern is gone.
@@JustMoparJoe I agree with your logic. Customer is aware, corrective measures will be taken if necessary and if not, all is well. Good deal Joe 🤘🏼
Hands down fast fish rear main seal kit fixes leak problems and good company to deal with.
@@CarlBrameloah-nm9oi Did you try the Fast Fish billet seal retainer (without side seals) or just their seal fitted to a Mopar Retainer?
@ The billet seal retainer without side seals.It went in a 512 440 based block.No more leaks tried two factory seals never did stop dripping.
@ That’s good to know. I suppose the Mancini standard replacement kit has a single silicone side seal and the FastFishAutoParts retainer relies on RTV (silicone) being injected down the side rails. If the installer does a good job it should be about the same thing? “Proof of the pudding, is in the eating”.
Awesome....on to fixing my 383 main seal! Thanks Joe.
@@moparnut6286 thanks John! Be sure and double check which side says “flywheel”.😂
Both my big block and small block had been line honed and both seals leaked. I ended up fixing the big block with a rope seal. I fixed the small block by swapping a hellcat in it. A little extreme but I'm much happier.
Haha! Hellcat wins!
Hey Joe, thought I'd share. I just called and talked to the fellow at Fast Fish and have one of his rear main seals coming. I've faught real main seals in the past on big block Mopars, hadn't heard of this one piece seal until your video. Oh, it's going in the 383 in my '66 Charger. Thanks so much, really appreciate it, and excited to put it in.
That’s awesome, you’ll be glad you tried it!
Nice shout out to Nick. In the old days we called those big block Mopars 440 six-pass. After six or seven runs she would love to piss oil out the rear of the block.
@@derekbowbrick6233 great RUclipsr and mopar lover!
Lmao I just want to thank mopar engineers for the gen3 hemi.
@ it’s awesome. But time and gen 3’s will always tick away..
Nice rear main seal fix Joe.
Certainly a good fix for a problematic rear main seal problem.
Nice video.
Thanks for sharing. 👍🇺🇸👍
@@edsmachine93 thanks Ed! I was thrilled to see no leaks.
I just bought one of those last week. A friend of mine recommended it to me. 383 should like it
@@NightWrencher excellent! Be sure and read the “flywheel side” on the seal. Or you’ll be like me😂
Good stuff ...Joe....thanks for the part reference....can't wait to see more....🔧🔧👍
@@SeanJoseph-s2s thanks brother.
Good deal on seal fixing leak, see you found a new seal for your next big block stroker. Keep up the good content Joe.
@@jeffdavis5704 thanks Jeff! Now on to the dyno
I am so glad you knew "that guy" and got the awesome power plant dried up. Thanks for a great lesson!
@@Hillbillygarage1215 thanks for the support!
Enjoyed the video . Glad to see you got the leak fixed .
@@terryboothe2309 thanks Terry!
Great fix,certainly did the job, good to know there is a fix,thanks for sharing, all the best to you and your loved ones
Thanks for the well wishes!
Glad you got it fixed! Thanks for sharing the adventure.
@@bradsrestorations1085 thanks brother Brad. Now on to the dyno!
Just bought one. Thanks for the video. Hopefully it goes in half as easy as it was for you!
@@cmarch425 I’m definitely sold on them. My slant 6 buddy swears by them
I’m glad that worked for you Joe. I’ve not heard any bad reports on that seal
Yes sir. I’m very pleased. Even works backwards!
good skills and fix Joe,thanks for sharing this,,beautiful sound also.
@@josepenate7367 thanks Jose
I FEEEEEL the pain Joe of doing it again 🙃😕. But you’re a thinker and you got this . All the best . 👌🇦🇺✌️.
@@brianandglendaharkin9457 no rest until it’s fixed!
Joe, I too have had some leakers and came up with a way to check before running the engine. With crank installed, and block with oil pan rails facing up and plenty of assembly lube on #5 main, to help create a seal, I cut 2 strips of closed cell black foam and pushed them in between the main cap and block to create a seal, poured 0 weight oil in cavity between main cap and seal retainer, left it overnight and viola! No leaks. Been driving around and it’s dry as a bone!
Not sure if one way is better than the other but at least it’s another option to consider. Thanks for the great videos!
Forgot to mention, I pulled out the strips with long needle nose pliers before installing the oil pan!
I do something similar with mine but I put the oil pan on and then pour about 4 quarts of oil into the engine and then hang the engine from the engine hoist by the front so the back is facing the ground. If that leaks anywhere you will see it and try again
@@Scott-z9u8b thanks for sharing! I meant from viewers everyday.
yep... fast fish... pay once... cry once... it is a hard concept for many of my mopar friends... but that seal works.
Looks Good Joe. I've had a few rear main leaks myself. I went to the Mancini racing holder and their seal. So far that has worked for me. If I had the block line honed I cut the same amount off the holder to match he block. It took quite a few trys before I fixed a couple of them.
@@MikeOCOnnor-jn4ic excellent tips! This one was a fighter, but I’m glad she’s sealed up
Glad you got it Joe. I'll have to try that seal out.
It's a sweet seal!
Never had a BB that didn't leak 😔Thaxs for posting this👍.
I’m going with it on my 440 in my challenger. That build will be coming soon
Hey Joe,
Tim here, YEA, THATS THE CO./SEAL I WAS TALKIN BOUT!!....if done right, u shud be good......we used their retainer, followed their recommended way (with crank in motor)......and again, homie went on power tour, and was VERY happy!!!!......glad ya found what I was talking bout......Fast Fish.......knew it was fish related.....hahahaha.....GOOD ON YA BROTHER!!.....peace to you!!
@@TimothyArnott-m7z thanks brother! Couldn’t be happier!
@JustMoparJoe kick ass product eh??.......I used same method, with the long reach needle nose plyers......urs went in MUCH easier than mine, but result was similar, you got NO seepage, and I got a tiny bit.......but I had the entire car put together, we were just tryin to help......flex plate was there, EVERYTHING was there.....all in this Hemi GTX.....we told him if this didn't get it, motor wud have to come out.........Power tour went GREAT!!!...nice to take care of each other here!!!.....PEACE brother!!
I USE THE VITON SEALS . ELIMINATE THE SIDE SEALS THATS CAUSES SEAL HOLDER TO BE OFF ALIGNMENT. USE THE RIGHT STUFF IN PLACE OF THE SIDE SEALS. YOU CAN ALSO V -GROOVE THE NO.5 MAIN LOWER BEARING FACING TOWARD THE FRONT.. THIS FORCES THE OIL TOWARD THE FRONT ...
Brand Racing Engines mentioned that same main groove to me. Try the Fast fish and you’ll never go back
Very cool! Glad it worked out!
It’s a sweet fix!
We use to use a thin plastic shoe horn , from let's say a bubble wrap package, to aid in installation , keeps the back of seal from getting shaved off from sharp edge of block , seal will just slide right in
@@michaelfackler9716 excellent idea
Good stuff Joe! I'll have to keep that seal in mind for my next build. 🏁
@@TonysHotRodGarage thanks Tony! I think I’ll definitely try them again soon
Excellent information !
@@maxfastest thanks brother
Hey Joe I know how you feel to have a leak after going through all the R&R , I was thinking I don’t know, pushing that seal down and around the crank, could this possibly work, and when it started feeding in I thought this just might be successful and it was so cool to see it work, wow those Mopars are so different from a Chevy on how the pan bolts up, seems like a lot of parts need to go together just right , but being a Chevy guy I have always thought the Mopars had a really good sound, kind of like you can hear the drive train in the headers, hope that made sense, good video and congratulations on getting the oil leak stopped 😀😀
They also sell Chevy seals! 350 and 400 I believe. Thanks for the support!
@ 👍
I was always taught to offset the split seals when they go into the block/cap so the seal mating surface is hidden inside the cap/block instead of where those two meet. I noticed when you pulled it apart the leaky seal wasn’t offset it was flush with the block. I’ve never had an issue so maybe that’s the trick? Either way it looks like the Fast Fish seal did a great job. I’ll definitely consider one for my next build. Cheers and thanks for the information, love your vids.
Andy L.
Tippin Classics
@@Tippin20s thanks brother! This was the first leaker like this for me. I was wondering if it was the crankshaft mating surface, or the retainer not having enough crush. She’s ready for the dyno
that engine sounds strong!!
Thanks brother. Dyno date is set!
So a few of the non OEM options are: 1) Mancini MOP-P4529732, billet main seal retainer, single silicone side seal, standard Chrysler black crank seal, 2) Mancini MRE220, billet, double side seal retainer which is cut deeper for the larger FelPro 2947 Viton crank seal. 3) Chrysler standard or Mancini MOP-P4529732 retainer and FastFishAutoParts one piece (you can cut it) double lip crank seal.
fastfishautoparts.com/store/p_1203729/big-block-mopar-retainer-only-
What young people don't realize is rope packing seals are supposed to be oily, as long as they dont leak too much.if they aren't, they will burn up.
I've used the new style seal in industry, usually they came precut.
Nice seal.
The main thing some people miss is not reliving crankcase pressure good enough.
❤
@@mikegreer9041 right on. 👍
Very cool. Those annoying leaks aren't just a Mopar thing😊
Thanks Shane! They sell Chevy seals!
Good Job!
Thanks brother
Nice job. I'm struggling to get my ford 390 I built to stop leaking. But that's a different deal. I think my rear main might be the only spot it don't leak! Lol
@@jesseduke694 haha! I’ve been there before too. Good luck!
I used a Mancini kit on my last big block and after I assembled it I can see daylight along one side so I knew that wasn't going to fly. I took it back out and put silicone on the sides a little thicker then the first time and made sure I let it dry for 2 days, I usually have bad luck with rear main seals. But this one did not leak on the dyno after 10 pulls .
@@thomasward4505 awesome! This engine dynos soon 🥳
Nice work!
@@jameswarren1871 thanks brother
Nice engine. Im pretty sure that’s what Gary was talking about when he said one piece rear main seal.
@@BigfootsnMopars yes sir
Glad ya got it.
Thanks brother
Thinking I need to make that call and get one of these for the Free 83! Still gotta get that thing buttoned up...😁😁
Yes sir! Tell them where you heard it 🫡
Thanks for sharing, I will try this if my last attempt fails, just installed the Mancini cap and seal yesterday and haven’t started it yet, but I am hoping it will work and not have to try the fast fish seal, but good info, thanks.
I'm rooting for you on that Mancini setup!
🌟 If the Mancini MRE220 main seal retainer is cut deeper to accommodate the size of the larger FelPro 2947 Viton seal (the standard Chrysler black seal leaks as per: “Comparing Mancini Racing's Billet Rear Main Seal Kits to Factory Replacement Seals” by “Mopar Connections” video). Why was it necessary to cut the retainer deeper if the larger Viton seal still fits (and doesn’t leak) between the crank and the block? Is there is an argument for using 1/2 a standard seal and 1/2 a Viton seal when using the Mancini MRE220?
Nice job!
@@rickkelsch2040 thanks brother
Handy dandy idea with the two bolts and cheap wrench to pull the rear seal. I'm always thinking, how can I do this smarter, quicker, cleaner with less swearing?😊
Thanks Mike!
Nice work and camera work too. What RTV was that?
@@jimdrechsel3611 permatex grey 🫡
Congrats Joe. Certainly a common issue with the old big blocks for sure.
Yes, Jeff's FF seal is well thought of amongst the engine builders on the forums I hang
out on (and they'd know) and now that I've seen you do one in an assembled, sort of
"in car" engine, I may be brave enough to go after the leaky one in my own 440 one day.
By the way, have you tried one of those one-piece windage tray/pan gasket jobbers the
the big suppliers sell? Always been curious about those.
- Ed on the Ridge
@@moparedtn thanks Ed. I have a one piece in my barracuda now. I’ve always suspected it of weeping some oil.
Joe I'm surprised you never use the Summit 1 piece pan gaskets/windage trays. Ive been using them for many year's now. They offer 1 for strokers too.
I like eliminating having to run dual gaskets.
They've worked great for me.
Hope she's A OK now!
@@TheDynotuner thanks brother. I have one on my barracuda 512. It’s weeping oil since I installed it. Not the rear seal there. I’ve checked and checked and checked. 😅
@@JustMoparJoe Cometic was saying last year @ PRI they were working on 1. I'm gonna bust his chops first thing on Friday morning. But I have those Summit's in a 413, 440, & 383 with great success 🤞🏽
@ I love the idea, but hate my luck 😂
I got a 360, 3000 miles since rebuild in a w-350 . just starting to leak, but not bad couple of drops on the floor after shutting down from a long drive. Not a problem yet . Have to see if they make one for a 360LA.
Yes sir. I want one for a 360 I’m building soon. I’ll have to check
Yes sir. I want one for a 360 I’m building soon. I’ll have to check
Rear seals suck man. Back in the 70s I replaced a leaky waxed rope seal with a new waxed rope seal while the engine was in the car. Getting the old one out of the block was a huge pain in the ass. Back then a rubber 2 piece was crap.
Wow man. That’s one part that was junk when most parts were superior to todays over the counter stuff
Hope it works for you, it didn't for me once, but came to the conclusion it was a crankshaft problem, the crank had been turned and it had too much runout on the ends, in other words it was moving up and down .005 on each end compared to the plane the main journals were on, the shop that turned the crank didn't get it right, new crank fixed it.👍
Wow man. I’ve seen Ed check runout many times. I’m relived this one is healed!
Thanks for that video, Joe. Interesting choice of rear seal too. I bought the SCE Gaskets 26605 that you used on one of your older videos. Any particular reason you chose the one you used this time over that one?
I shot you an email 🫡
Joe, did you buy or. Build your run stand
The run stand was built by a viewer and friend Bradsrestorations. I’m definitely thankful for it!
Good deal Joe. How much was the seal 🦭 kit?
@@Anthony-nw5zv seal kit is around $80. Definitely call and Jeff will get you a JMJ discount.
Did the neighbors complain about the noise it worked out just great
@@Grandadsjunk hahah! No sir not yet. I like to keep them happy
Nice
Appreciate you checking it out!
I went back to 11 minutes in on this video and you definitely installed that seal backwards.
Absolutely correct. Filming has saved me once again! I pinned Daze of Glory’s comment. He called it first! 😂
Well on the old rope seal per shop manual you must soak it in kerosene b 4 installing it
Yes sir. That old tech still works. This was such an easy fix. Very relived
Hey Joe what part of Arkansas are you in, I’m located in south east ark about 30 minutes away from the Louisiana line
@@Southarkmopars my family is originally from Clarendon. I’m around Lonoke now
@ thanks for your reply man, I been watching ur videos for about a year now and hurd you mention Arkansas in a couple of your videos, and aw ohkay I gotcha that’s pretty cool yeah ur up there around Little Rock lonoke is about 2 hours from here, I’m in small town crossett lol
I know the small block doesn’t have the extent of rear main seal issues, but it does happen. Wonder if Jeff has a seal for 318’s? Mine is apart and getting rebuilt, why not throw that seal in so you to have to cut it!
@@Coronetguy absolutely worth checking out! I’m a believer
Glad it worked. The nightmare is over.
I’m getting one for the 440!
Maybe if you turn the crank should pull it around joe
Yes sir. I thought the same thing 🫡
I kinda like that seal fer sure 👍
@@gtdart970h it’s a sweet one!
Is there an equivalent seal for the Magnum 360 engine?
I asked today. It’s on order for next year
Re the FastFishAutoParts seal. We know that FelPro 2947, is larger than the standard Chrysler black seal. Has anyone measured the FastFishAutoParts seal to see which of the two previous seals (size) it matches? That would help decide on the appropriate seal retainer to best use.
@@JACB006 yes sir. They sell a billet seal retainer as well.
@ Hi Joe yes I was looking at that on their website … but they don’t use any side seals. My car sits for long periods of inactivity and relying on solely RTV seems suspect. So I thought about using one of the Mancini retainers (silicon side seals, not rope or solely RTV) but that begs the question, what size is the Fast Fish seal? As you know, the standard Chrysler seal and the viton seal are different sizes.
@ yes sir. I’ve heard you mention the seal thickness differences. I would love to measure each and show their results in a video. I’m not sure of the depth of caps, but I just talked to Jeff and he said the Fastfish caps are USA made and sold, and are the correct fit for the one live seal. Mine worked well
With the factory cap, so I would assume the fast fish cap is the same depth.
@ I hear you … which retainer and side seal did you use in the video? YesI I plan on using the Fast Fish crank seal, I’am just trying to work out how best to use it. At the moment I only have a standard Chrysler rope seal retainer which I think I need to improve upon.
Ps: Do you rate the Cometic AFM Oil Pan Gaskets C5617-030 and C5617-060 (.030” & .060”)?
@ I used the stock retainer again. It was from a late 70’s truck block. I’m sorry I don’t have the part number. I believe Jeff sells both pan gaskets as well. I would like the thicker version for the pan side and thinner for the windage tray to the pan. I appreciate your insights!
Was your engine nice and quiet or did it have a small amount of piston slap?
@@thomasward4505 I’m not sure If it’s slap, or if it’s valve train noise. Those morel hydraulic rollers are oftentimes loud
👍👍👍👍
Thanks brother
Sounds like it has a lot of valve train noise joe
Yes sir. I was able to discuss in the next video. Sorry I’m late answering comments
I doubt that silicone would stick to anything because of all the oil in the bottom of the groove
@@thomasward4505 cleaned and dry now. Definitely relieved
My apologies for being that guy. There's 8:16 then 12:51 then 15:31 lead me to believe that the seal in this video is installed backward.
@@kurgan322 no sir, thanks for the heads up! I was able to pin a comment of someone who mentioned it first. Will discuss in the dyno preparation video🫡
Gnarly Speed Shop used that fast fish seal and they had leaking problems with it. might be luck of the draw
Yea just checked it out about 90 dollars 😢
Definitely call! Jeff will give you the JMJ discount.
I think I'm 0 for 4 lifetime, trying to do a rear main without dropping the crank.
Wow man!
I hate leaks.. you didnt quit🫵
@@Ridendrty thanks brother. If it leaks again, I’ll be there!
Joe how's the challenger motor coming along??
@@danieljacobson5774 the block is perfectly ready. I’m waiting on balancing the bottom end components now.