The angled jaws are for sharpening the heads assembled, on the ferrule. If you want to disassemble the heads and sharpen the blades like that, use the straight jaws that come with the sharpener 👍
I don’t have any experience with this jig, but I have a lot of experience with sharpening knives. This jig is sharpening at a more obtuse angle than the factory edge. When you’ve removed the ink from the edge, but still have ink above it, you have what’s called a microbevel. It should be sufficient to stop there as long as there is a burr along the opposite side of the edge. By leaving a microbevel, vs reprofiling the entire edge, you remove less steel. This means your sharpening session will go faster, have less impact on the weight of the broadhead, allow the broadhead to be resharpened more times, and makes resharpening easier (because less steel needs to be removed on future touch ups). I wanted to call that out, but otherwise I found this video very helpful. Thank you!
I think one note from a sharpening standpoint for the longevity of your broadheads, try for a shallower angle using the jig to get a more even distribution of sharpening to keep the factory bevel angle. Not a huge change, and after the first sharpening that bevel angle is gone so the next will be consistent with your process. Just found the channel, love the videos.
You don't keep going at that angle until all the black is gone, you change the angle until it matches the bevel. If that's not possible with the jig then that's a serious design flaw.
The angled jaws are for sharpening the heads assembled, on the ferrule. If you want to disassemble the heads and sharpen the blades like that, use the straight jaws that come with the sharpener 👍
I don’t have any experience with this jig, but I have a lot of experience with sharpening knives. This jig is sharpening at a more obtuse angle than the factory edge. When you’ve removed the ink from the edge, but still have ink above it, you have what’s called a microbevel. It should be sufficient to stop there as long as there is a burr along the opposite side of the edge. By leaving a microbevel, vs reprofiling the entire edge, you remove less steel. This means your sharpening session will go faster, have less impact on the weight of the broadhead, allow the broadhead to be resharpened more times, and makes resharpening easier (because less steel needs to be removed on future touch ups).
I wanted to call that out, but otherwise I found this video very helpful. Thank you!
Is this the reason for the adjustment screw for the jig's roller, to obtain the true original cut angle?
The high dark pots showing up on your paper tells me you need a smoother surface to work on, not to mention the joint in your table.
Why didnt you adjust the roller to fit the factory angle on the blade? Seems to me that would be better unless the edge was just damaged.
You know you can reshapen the blades of the rage on that jig right?
I think one note from a sharpening standpoint for the longevity of your broadheads, try for a shallower angle using the jig to get a more even distribution of sharpening to keep the factory bevel angle. Not a huge change, and after the first sharpening that bevel angle is gone so the next will be consistent with your process. Just found the channel, love the videos.
Why’d you quit the trad bow?
You don't keep going at that angle until all the black is gone, you change the angle until it matches the bevel. If that's not possible with the jig then that's a serious design flaw.
Glad I watched this video this year. Penn St beat the Hawkeyes 31-0. Great video though. Thanks
I have one I bought years back even with a jig it’s hard to get an edge it’s not easy! By the way go hawks