👍 I looked it up, and the Ka24De factory say 0.0002 to 0.0020 mm ,lol when you get you crank checked for out of round , it’s not a good idea to get a under size crankshaft, but if they can Micro polish it at minimum’s just a true it up, and resize the rod to stock , might need line bored and Magna fluxed for cracks, might think about full floating wrist pins with keepers, Keith black forged pistons or TRW forged pistons or hyper technics hyper tactics are weak though,, ok and for sure Cleve lite 77 bearing inserts as they are alcohol resistant,p.s. i did see some of the place in duck duck go it said something about Rod and main bearing some sort of holding pens in the block or something I seen, BigAl California thanks
Yea I just pulled the FSM up again. .0004-.0014 thousandths of an inch. But checking inner diameter with a micrometer on big end of the rod and outer diameter of the crank journal to find the clearance. I might get the Brian Crower stroker crank just to have the peace of mind with it being a brand new full balanced crank. My pistons are bushed for full floating piston pins with c clip keepers. I’m looking at some Manley I beam rods and my current rod cap inserts were clevites. I don’t believe they were alcohol resistant - I’ll make sure to get the 77s this next go around. I’m not sure on the holding pins in the block, I’ll have to look it up.
Don’t forget, there is a upper and and lower, chamfered side and non-chamfered side, you can look at the crankshaft and see the sde of the Rod journals will have a radiused side to them on one side, ok, maybe, ou need to get the crankshaft Magna fluxed, and you can Micro polish the crank yourself you know start out with they have all kinds of emery cloth just look it up and get a shoestring and wrap it around the journal twice on top of the emery cloth and then pull the ends of the shoe string back-and-forth and that will micro polish the flat area where the bearing spun, at a minimum, might need a undersized in certain they have one twos and threes I think, it I just a resized rods is a must in a shop to stock measurement and they’re not round they’re only supposed to touch the crank on the top and the bottom the sides are for oil at the mating point , and (u) for upper ,piston side, and (L) for the cap end of the rods ok, they make 1.5 2.0 3.0 up to 8.0 bearing inserts clearance, for all engines, there is nothing special about your engine it’s all the same in all engines and all crankshafts ok, The steps and the clearances are all the same, you pick the amount of oil clearance gap you want, it will need thicker oil he more gap you build in your engine ok, love ya. BigAl California thanks
Micrometers by Sterritte, the problem with plastics are hand grenades and horseshoes guessing with plastic gauge my opinion, 1.5 thousand to maximum 2 thousands, on a turbo/supercharged engine, lol you said 15 thousands that’s not ever in any insert crank clearances on the rods never ever, it’s one and ahalf thousand to 2000 maximum on a turbo charged supercharged engine, ok BigAl California thanks
Rod cap clearance for the KA24DE is .0015” - .0020”. Regardless of turbo/supercharger. I need to get the crank sent out. Balanced and turned cause I do believe that #3 rod cap insert got hung up which caused it to self clearance and eat itself up. I have a kynup digital caliper - micrometer that I can measure inside and outside diameters. I don’t hate plastigage though it can be hit or miss lol
Nope, your inserts respinning in the rod called spun rods that’s why they got so hot my 355 is 003 thousand of an inch, you will need gear oil in the crank case if you run 020 thousand of an inch, it will have rod knock every time with oil gaps at 0020 thousand, ok I’ll try to find the professional shop oil gap on stock to performance Applications and get backto you ok BigAl California thanks
@@alkennedy1124 the FSM (Factory Service Manual) on this engine calls for .0015”-.0020” on rod cap insert clearance. .0010” is way to tight for this engine. Mine are currently at plus .0030” which is way to loose. And Eagle rods also calls for the clearance to be between .0015”-.0020” so I’m gonna listen to the manufacturer of the rods.
Someone has mislead you, 30 thousand,is 28 thousand much, one ans half to two thousands if those shops back there are say 30 thousands you will need a bank itch tbe to afford the rods and crank shafts , lol ok
@@alkennedy1124 ah I see what you mean lol. I kept saying 15 thousandths 😂. 1.5 thousandths to 2 thousandths is where I need it to be. They are at 3 thousandths plus 😂😂
You might of hadthe bearings too tight, with that heat, get a scat crank shaft, p.s. there is a front and a real of the baering and it’s is critical, 0.0002 to 0.0003 thousandths of an inch, maximum, if you go wider on the oil gap, you will need 70 waight oil, get a Standard scat crankshaft, and be precise and accurate with 3 thousand of a inch max bearing clearances, ok, BigAl California thanks, p.s. plastic gauge sets 90° across the journal, ok if you did know, I don’t like it at all it’s toooo much of a guessing game.
Yea I remember putting the bearing inserts and rods in correctly. They had to be installed a specific way and they have the tang on the inserts that sit in the rod and rod caps indents to lock the bearing in place. Yea it has to sit perpendicular to the rod so 90 degrees on the journal
Anytime you hear me say 15 thousandths, 20 thousandths, 30 thousandths. That’s me saying 1.5 thousandths, 2 thousandths, 3 thousandths of an inch! 😂😂😂
👍 I looked it up, and the Ka24De factory say 0.0002 to 0.0020 mm ,lol when you get you crank checked for out of round , it’s not a good idea to get a under size crankshaft, but if they can Micro polish it at minimum’s just a true it up, and resize the rod to stock , might need line bored and Magna fluxed for cracks, might think about full floating wrist pins with keepers, Keith black forged pistons or TRW forged pistons or hyper technics hyper tactics are weak though,, ok and for sure Cleve lite 77 bearing inserts as they are alcohol resistant,p.s. i did see some of the place in duck duck go it said something about Rod and main bearing some sort of holding pens in the block or something I seen, BigAl California thanks
Yea I just pulled the FSM up again. .0004-.0014 thousandths of an inch. But checking inner diameter with a micrometer on big end of the rod and outer diameter of the crank journal to find the clearance. I might get the Brian Crower stroker crank just to have the peace of mind with it being a brand new full balanced crank. My pistons are bushed for full floating piston pins with c clip keepers. I’m looking at some Manley I beam rods and my current rod cap inserts were clevites. I don’t believe they were alcohol resistant - I’ll make sure to get the 77s this next go around. I’m not sure on the holding pins in the block, I’ll have to look it up.
Don’t forget, there is a upper and and lower, chamfered side and non-chamfered side, you can look at the crankshaft and see the sde of the Rod journals will have a radiused side to them on one side, ok, maybe, ou need to get the crankshaft Magna fluxed, and you can Micro polish the crank yourself you know start out with they have all kinds of emery cloth just look it up and get a shoestring and wrap it around the journal twice on top of the emery cloth and then pull the ends of the shoe string back-and-forth and that will micro polish the flat area where the bearing spun, at a minimum, might need a undersized in certain they have one twos and threes I think, it I just a resized rods is a must in a shop to stock measurement and they’re not round they’re only supposed to touch the crank on the top and the bottom the sides are for oil at the mating point , and
(u) for upper ,piston side, and (L) for the cap end of the rods ok, they make 1.5 2.0 3.0 up to 8.0 bearing inserts clearance, for all engines, there is nothing special about your engine it’s all the same in all engines and all crankshafts ok, The steps and the clearances are all the same, you pick the amount of oil clearance gap you want, it will need thicker oil he more gap you build in your engine ok, love ya. BigAl California thanks
Micrometers by Sterritte, the problem with plastics are hand grenades and horseshoes guessing with plastic gauge my opinion, 1.5 thousand to maximum 2 thousands, on a turbo/supercharged engine, lol you said 15 thousands that’s not ever in any insert crank clearances on the rods never ever, it’s one and ahalf thousand to 2000 maximum on a turbo charged supercharged engine, ok BigAl California thanks
Rod cap clearance for the KA24DE is .0015” - .0020”. Regardless of turbo/supercharger. I need to get the crank sent out. Balanced and turned cause I do believe that #3 rod cap insert got hung up which caused it to self clearance and eat itself up. I have a kynup digital caliper - micrometer that I can measure inside and outside diameters. I don’t hate plastigage though it can be hit or miss lol
Nope, your inserts respinning in the rod called spun rods that’s why they got so hot my 355 is 003 thousand of an inch, you will need gear oil in the crank case if you run 020 thousand of an inch, it will have rod knock every time with oil gaps at 0020 thousand, ok I’ll try to find the professional shop oil gap on stock to performance Applications and get backto you ok BigAl California thanks
@@alkennedy1124 the FSM (Factory Service Manual) on this engine calls for .0015”-.0020” on rod cap insert clearance. .0010” is way to tight for this engine. Mine are currently at plus .0030” which is way to loose. And Eagle rods also calls for the clearance to be between .0015”-.0020” so I’m gonna listen to the manufacturer of the rods.
Someone has mislead you, 30 thousand,is 28 thousand much, one ans half to two thousands if those shops back there are say 30 thousands you will need a bank itch tbe to afford the rods and crank shafts , lol ok
@@alkennedy1124 ah I see what you mean lol. I kept saying 15 thousandths 😂. 1.5 thousandths to 2 thousandths is where I need it to be. They are at 3 thousandths plus 😂😂
You might of hadthe bearings too tight, with that heat, get a scat crank shaft, p.s. there is a front and a real of the baering and it’s is critical, 0.0002 to 0.0003 thousandths of an inch, maximum, if you go wider on the oil gap, you will need 70 waight oil, get a Standard scat crankshaft, and be precise and accurate with 3 thousand of a inch max bearing clearances, ok, BigAl California thanks, p.s. plastic gauge sets 90° across the journal, ok if you did know, I don’t like it at all it’s toooo much of a guessing game.
Yea I remember putting the bearing inserts and rods in correctly. They had to be installed a specific way and they have the tang on the inserts that sit in the rod and rod caps indents to lock the bearing in place. Yea it has to sit perpendicular to the rod so 90 degrees on the journal